AU2007302149B2 - Styling agents giving a high degree of hold - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to agents for temporarily shaping keratin fibers, said agents containing, incorporated into a cosmetically acceptable carrier,: a) at least one copolymer A formed by at least one monomer A1 selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic alkyl esters and methacrylic alkyl esters, at least one monomer A2 selected from acrylic hydroxy alkyl esters and methacrylic hydroxy alkyl esters and at least one monomer A3 selected from succinic monoalkylesters and succinic dialkylesters, and b) at least one copolymer B formed by at least one monomer B1 selected from acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-alkylacrylamide and N-alkylmethacrylamide, at least one monomer B2 selected from N-vinyllactams, at least one monomer B3 selected from quaternized N-vinylimidazoles and the monomer N-vinylimidazole. The invention also relates to the use of the agents for temporarily shaping hair and to an aerosol styling mousse that contains a corresponding agent and at least one propellant.

Description

PCT/EP2007/058493 H 07112 STYLING AGENTS GIVING A HIGH DEGREE OF HOLD [0002] The present invention relates to agents for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers, containing a special combination of polymers, the use of these agents for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers and aerosol styling mousses based on these agents. [0003] Keratinic fibers are understood in principle to include all types of animal hair, e.g. wool, horsehair, angora hair, pelts, feathers and products or textiles produced from them. However, the keratinic fibers are preferably human hair. [0004] An attractive hairstyle today is considered in general to be an indispensable part of a well-groomed outer appearance. Because of current fashion trends, the hairstyles that are regarded as chic are repeatedly those that, on many types of hair, can be created only by using active styling ingredients and/or that can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Hair treatment agents, which provide a permanent or temporary shape to hair, therefore play an important role. Temporary shaping which should yield a good hold without impairing the healthy appearance of the hair, e.g. its shine, may be achieved, for example, by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, styling mousses, blow-dry hair feathering, etc. [0005] Corresponding agents for temporary shaping usually contain synthetic polymers as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer may be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pump mechanism. However, hair gels and hair waxes are not usually applied directly to hair but instead are distributed in hair by using a comb or using the hands. [0006] The most important property of an agent for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers, hereinafter also referred to as styling agents, consists of imparting the strongest possible hold to the treated fibers in the shape created. If the keratinic fibers are human hair, we also speak of a strong hairstyle hold or a high degree of hold of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is determined H 07112 essentially by the type and amount of synthetic polymer used, but there may also be an influence of the additional ingredients of the styling agent. [0007] In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a number of other requirements. These may be subdivided roughly into properties on the hair, the properties of the respective formulation, e.g. the properties of the mousse, gel or the aerosol spray and properties that pertain to the handling of the styling agent, such that the properties on the hair are especially important. Humidity resistance, low stickiness and a balanced conditioning effect should be mentioned in particular. In addition, a styling agent should be universally usable for all types of hair, if possible. [0008] To comply with the various requirements, a number of synthetic polymers, which are used in styling agents, have already been developed. These polymers can be subdivided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric film-forming and/or styling polymers. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers form a polymer film that imparts a strong hold to the hairstyle but on the other hand is flexible enough not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too fragile, so-called film plaques are formed, i.e., residues which become detached from the hair as it moves and give the impression that the person using the corresponding styling agent has dandruff. [0009] To develop styling agents having all the desired properties combined still poses problems. In particular, this is true of the combination of a strong hold on the one hand and excellent humidity resistance on the other hand. [0010] The object of the present invention was therefore to make available an agent for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers, such that it is characterized by a very high degree of hold and by good humidity resistance at the same time. [0011] It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved through a combination of special polymers. [0012] A first subject of the present invention is therefore an agent for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers, containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle: 2 H 07112 a) at least one copolymer A, formed from - at least one monomer Al, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl esters and methacrylic acid alkyl esters, - at least one monomer A2, selected from acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and - at least one monomer A3, selected from succinic acid monoalkyl esters and succinic acid dialkyl esters and b) at least one copolymer B formed from - at least one monomer B1, selected from acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-alkylacrylamide and N-alkylmethacryl amide, - at least one monomer B2, selected from N-vinyllactams, - at least one monomer B3, selected from quaternized N-vinyl imidazoles and - the monomer N-vinylimidazole. [0013] Copolymers A, copolymers B and their use as film-forming and/or styling polymers are known. These copolymers are characterized in particular by a very high degree of hold. It has now surprisingly been found that when using a combination of these copolymers, a synergistic increase in the degree of hold is achieved with an excellent humidity resistance. [0014] As the first obligatory constituent, the inventive agents for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers contain at least one copolymer A. [0015] A copolymer A formed from the following is preferably used: - at least one monomer Al, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid C 1

-C

10 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C 1

-C

10 alkyl esters, - at least one monomer A2, selected from acrylic acid hydroxy C 1 -C1O alkyl esters and methacrylic acid hydroxy C 1

-C

10 alkyl esters and 3 H 07112 - at least one monomer A3, selected from succinic acid mono-C-C 6 alkyl esters and succinic acid di-C-C 6 alkyl esters. [0016] Copolymers A, which are formed from the aforementioned monomers, are understood in the sense of the present invention to include only those copolymers which contain max. 5 wt%, preferably max. 1 wt% polymer units attributed to the incorporation of other monomers, in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the aforementioned monomers Al, A2 and A3 into the copolymer. Copolymers A are preferably constructed exclusively from polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the aforementioned monomers Al, A2 and A3 into the copolymer. [0017] Preferred monomers Al are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid ethyl esters, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester and/or methacrylic acid isopropyl ester. [0018] Preferred monomers A2 include hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacrylate (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl) methacrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl) acrylate and/or (3-hydroxypropyl) methacrylate. [0019] Preferred monomers A3 include methyl hydrogen succinate, methyl succinate, ethyl hydrogen succinate, ethyl succinate, propyl hydrogen succinate, propyl succinate, isopropyl hydrogen succinate and/or isopropyl succinate. Especially preferred monomers A3 are methyl succinate and/or ethyl succinate. [0020] Especially preferred is a copolymer A that is formed from - at least one monomer Al, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester and methacrylic acid isopropyl ester, 4 H 07112 - at least one monomer A2, selected from hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacrylate (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxy ethyl) methacrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxypropyl) methacrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl) acrylate, (3-hydroxypropyl) methacrylate and - at least one monomer A3, selected from methyl succinate and ethyl succinate. [0021] Copolymers A can be synthesized by means of the known polymerization methods from said monomers. [0022] Most especially preferred copolymers A are the copolymers designated as acrylates/C 1

-

2 succinates/hydroxyacrylates copolymer according to INCI nomenclature. These are commercially available. [0023] The inventive agents contain as copolymer A, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt%, especially preferably 0.05 to 10 wt%, most especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on the total hairstyling agent. [0024] As the second obligatory component, the inventive agents for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers contain at least one copolymer B. [0025] A copolymer B that is formed from the following is preferred: - at least one monomer B1, selected from acrylamide, methacrylamide,

N-C

1

-C

10 alkylacrylamide and N-C 1 -C1 0 alkylmethacrylamide, - at least one monomer B2, selected from N-vinyllactams, - at least one monomer B3, selected from quaternized N-vinylimidazoles and - the monomer N-vinylimidazole. [0026] Copolymers B formed from said monomers are understood in the sense of the present invention to be only those copolymers which contain max. 5 wt%, preferably max. 1 wt% polymer units attributed to the incorporation of other monomers in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said monomers B1, B2, B3 and N-vinylimidazole into the copolymer. 5 H 07112 Copolymers B are preferably constructed exclusively from polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said monomers B1, B2, B3 and N-vinylimidazole into the copolymer. [0027] Preferred monomers B1 are acrylamide and methacrylamide, but methacrylamide is especially preferred. [0028] Preferred monomers B2 are N-vinylcaprolactam and N-vinyl pyrrolidone; N-vinylpyrrolidone is especially preferred. [0029] Preferred monomers B3 are salts of 3-alkyl-1-vinylimidazolium, in particular 3-(C1-C1o-alkyl)-1-vinylimidazolium with physiologically tolerable anions. Physiologically tolerable anions include in particular halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, bicarbonate, bisulfate, monoalkyl sulfate, in particular monomethyl sulfate and dihydrogen phosphate. Preferred physiologically tolerable anions are chloride and monomethyl sulfate. [0030] Monomer B3 is especially preferably 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate. [0031] A copolymer B formed from the following is especially preferred: - at least one monomer 1, selected from acrylamide and methacrylamide, - at least one monomer B2, selected from N-vinylcaprolactam and N-vinylpyrrolidone, - 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate and - N-vinylimidazole. [0032] Copolymers B can be synthesized from said monomers by means of the known polymerization methods. [0033] Most especially preferred copolymers B are the copolymers that are constructed from vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, vinylimidazole and 3-methyl-1-vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate, known as polyquaterium-68 according to INCI name. These are commercially available under the brand name Luviquat* Supreme. 6 H 07112 [0034] The inventive agents preferably contain copolymer B in an amount of 0.01 to 20wt%, especially preferably 0.05 to lOwt%, most especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on the total hairstyling agent. [0035] The inventive agents may of course also contain several copolymers A and copolymers B, but the total amount of copolymer A and copolymer B is preferably max 20 wt%. [0036] To obtain the desired properties of the inventive agent, in particular the very strong hold in combination with excellent humidity resistance, the agent must contain both copolymer A and copolymer B. It has been found that an optimal profile of properties is obtained when the agent contains copolymer A and copolymer B in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 20:1, preferably 1:10 to 10:1, especially preferably from 1:5 to 5:1. [0037] In addition to copolymer A and copolymer B, the agents may also contain all other known film-forming and/or styling polymers. These film-forming and/or styling polymers may be permanently as well as temporarily cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric or nonionic. [0038] Since polymers are often multifunctional, their functions cannot always be clearly and unambiguously differentiated from one another. This is true in particular of film-forming and styling polymers. At this point, however, it is noted explicitly that within the scope of the present invention, both film-forming and styling polymers are essential. Since the two properties are not completely independent of one another, the term "styling polymers" is also always understood to include "film-forming polymers" and vice-versa. [0039] The preferred properties of the film-forming polymers include the formation of a film. Film-forming polymers are understood to include polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails when dried. Such film forming agents may be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as facial masks, make-up, hairstyling agents, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, intense hair treatments, shampoos or nail polish. In particular such polymers which have a sufficient solubility in alcohol or water/alcohol mixtures to be 7 H 07112 present in a completely dissolved form in the inventive agent are preferred. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin. [0040] Film-forming polymers are also understood to include such polymers according to the invention which are capable of leaving a transparent polymer film on the hair when used in an 0.01 to 20 wt% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous alcoholic solution. [0041] Other suitable synthetic film-forming hairstyling polymers include, for example, homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, especially preferably C 1 to C3 alkyl groups. [0042] Examples that can be mentioned include the homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming hairstyling polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, which are distributed under the brand names Akypomine* P 191 from the company CHEM-Y Emmerich or Sepigel* 305 from the company Seppic; polyvinyl alcohols which are distributed under the brand names Elvanol® by DuPont or Vinol* 523/540 by the company Air Products, for example, as well as polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers which are distributed by Union Carbide under the brand name Ucon*, for example. [0043] Suitable natural film-forming polymers include, for example, cellulose derivatives, e.g. hydroxypropylcellulose with a molecular weight of 30,000 g/mol to 50,000 g/mol, which is distributed under the brand name Nisso Sl* by the company Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg, for example. [0044] Styling polymers contribute to the hold and/or to a buildup hair volume and/or body of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are also film-forming 8 H 07112 polymers at the same time and therefore are in general typical substances for hair setting agents, such as hairstyling agents, hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays. The forming of the film may involve only a spot and may only join a few fibers together. [0045] Substances that impart hydrophobic properties to hair are preferred here because they reduce the tendency of hair to absorb humidity, i.e., water. This therefore reduces limpness of strands of hair and thus ensures a long lasting hairstyle creation and preservation. The so-called curl retention test is often used as a test method for this. These polymer substances may also be incorporated successfully into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, i.e., have multiple effects which are desired in applications technology, there are numerous polymers in several groups classified according to the mechanism of action, e.g. in the CTFA handbook. [0046] If the inventive agents contain other film-forming and/or styling polymers, they are preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt%, based on the total hairstyling agents. Of course multiple film forming and/or styling polymers may also be included, whereby the total amount of other film-forming and/or styling polymers is preferably max. 20 wt%. [0047] In a preferred embodiment, the inventive agents contain exclusively copolymer A and copolymer B as film-forming and/or styling polymers. [0048] The inventive agents contain the copolymers in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. [0049] Preferred cosmetically acceptable vehicles include aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media preferably with at least 10 wt% water, based on the total agent. The low alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol which are usually used for cosmetic purposes in particular may be included as the alcohols here. [0050] Organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400*C may be present as additional cosolvents in an amount of 0.1 to 15 wt%, 9 H 07112 preferably 1 to 10 wt%, based on the total agent. Branched or unbranched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are especially suitable as additional cosolvents. Other water-soluble solvents that are especially preferred include glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 wt%, based on the total agent. [0051] The addition of glycerol and/or propylene glycol in particular increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed by using the inventive agent. Thus, if a flexible hold is desired, the inventive agents preferably contain 0.01 to 30 wt% glycerol and/or propylene glycol, based on the total agent. [0052] The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is especially preferred. The statements about the pH value in the sense of this text are based on the pH at 25*C, unless otherwise indicated. [0053] The inventive agents may also contain the additives and auxiliary substances that are usually added to traditional styling agents. [0054] Suitable additives and auxiliary substances include care substances in particular. [0055] A silicone oil and/or a silicone gum may be used as the care substance, for example. In a special embodiment of the invention, the agents contain at least one silicone oil and/or a silicone gum. [0056] Silicone oils or silicone gums that are suitable according to the invention include in particular dialkyl- and alkylarylsiloxanes, e.g. dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane as well as their alkoxylated, quaternized or anionic derivatives. Cyclic and linear polydialkyl siloxanes, their alkoxylated and/or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypoly dimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes are preferred. [0057] Silicone oils produce a wide variety of effects. For example, they influence wet and dry combability at the same time, the feel of dry and wet hair as well as its shine. Those skilled in the art understand the term silicone oils to 10 H 07112 refer to several structures of organosilicon compounds. First, this is understood to include the dimethiconols (S1) which may be either linear or branched or cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-): (HOSiR 1 2 ) -O - (SiR 2 2 -O- ), - (Si R' 2 0H) (S1 - I) [0058] Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si-Il):

R

2 (HOSiR 2)-O-(SiR 2 2 -O-) -Si-O-(SiR 2 2 -0- )y-(SiOHR 2 ) (SI -II) O - (SiR22 - O- ),-(SiOHR12) [0059] The radicals R 1 and R 2 independently of one another each stand for hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and/or an aryl radical. Nonrestrictive examples of the radicals represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halolhydrocarbon radicals, e.g. 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoro propyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like as well as radicals containing sulfur, e.g. mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R 1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl radical containing one to approximately six carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2 are especially preferably methyl. The numbers x, y and z are integers, each amounting to 0 to 50,000, independently of one another. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. These viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25*C with the help of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method 11 H 07112 CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 cPs and 5,000,000 cPs, most especially preferred viscosities are between 10,000 cPs and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 cPs and 2,000,000 cPs. [0060] The following commercial products are mentioned as examples of such products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 29026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC dimethiconol and sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all the aforementioned from Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dew Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all the aforementioned from Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils),. HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all the aforementioned from Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all the aforementioned from GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (SOd-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all the aforementioned from Wacker-Chemie GmbH). [0061] Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones that may be present according to this invention. They may be linear as well as branched as 12 H 07112 well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-1): (SiR' 3 ) - O - (SiR'R 2 - 0 - ). - (SiR' 3 ) (S2 - 1) [0062] Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-11):

R

2 (SiR 1 3 )-O-(SiR'R-). -*Si-O-(Si R'R 2 -O - -(SiR' 3 ) (S2- II) 0 - (Si R'R 2 - 0- ).- (SiR 1 3 ) [0063] The radicals R 1 and R 2 independently of one another each stand for hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 3 0 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and/or an aryl radical. Nonrestrictive examples of the radicals represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl radicals, e.g. methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals, e.g. vinyl halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals, e.g. cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halolhydrocarbon radicals, e.g. 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoro propyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like as well as radicals containing sulfur, e.g. mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R 1 and R 2 are preferably an alkyl radical containing one to approximately six carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2 are especially preferably methyl. The numbers x, y and z are integers, each amounting to 0 to 50,000, independently of one another. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. These viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 250C with the help of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 cPs and 5,000,000 cPs, most especially preferred viscosities are between 10,000 cPs 13 H 07112 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 cPs and 2,000,000 cPs. [0064] Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of silicones that are suitable. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SIR's) - O - (SiR 22 - O0 ) (SiR 2PE - 0 - )y - (SiR1a) (S3 - 1), PE - (SiR' 2 ) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O - )x -(SiR' 2 ) - PE (S3 - II) [0065] Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-111):

R

2 PE -(SiR'2) - O-(SiR2- O- ). - Si - O-(SiR2- O- )y -(SiR'2) -PE (S3 -Ill) 0 - (SiR 2 2 -0- - (SiR' 2 ) - PE or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

R

2 (SiR'3) - 0 - (SiR 2 2 -0- - Si - 0 - (SiR 2 PE - 0 - ),- (SiR'a) (S3-IV) 0 - (SiR 2 2 -0- - (SiR 3 ) [0066] The radicals R 1 and R 2 independently of one another each stand for hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C2 to C30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and/or an aryl radical. Nonrestrictive examples of radicals represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl radicals, e.g. methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals, e.g. vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals, e.g. cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halo 14 H 07112 hydrocarbon radicals, e.g. 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like as well as radicals containing sulfur, e.g. mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R' and R 2 are preferably an alkyl radical containing 1 to approx. 6 carbon atoms; R 1 and R 2 are especially preferably methyl. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers, each amounting to 0 to 50,000, independently of one another. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. These viscosities are between 100 cPs and 10,000,000 cPs, measured at 25 0 C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1000 cPs and 5,000,000 cPs, especially preferred viscosities are between 10,000 cPs and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 cPs and 2,000,000 cPs. [0067] Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are distributed by Dow Corning under the brand name Dow Corning* 5330 Fluid, for example. [0068] The inventive teaching of course also includes the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolymers may already be in the form of an emulsion. The corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolyols may be prepared from them by the conventional methods for emulsification with which those skilled in the art are familiar. Cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers may be used as auxiliary agents here to prepare the corresponding emulsions. Emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolyols may of course also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Those skilled in the art are very familiar with such methods. [0069] If the dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolyols are used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention amounts to 0.01 pm to 10,000 pm, preferably 0.01 pm to 100 pm, especially preferably 0.01 pm to 20 pm and most especially preferably 15 H 07112 0.01 pm to 10 pm. The particle size is determined according to the light scatter method. [0070] If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolyols are used, this is understood to mean that the branching is greater than random branching that occurs randomly due to contaminants in the respective monomers. Therefore, in the sense of the present invention, branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolyols are understood to mean that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. A degree of branching greater than 0.1% and most especially preferably than greater than 0.5% is preferred. [0071] The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers to branching monomers, i.e., the amount of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low-branched and high-branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and/or dimethicone copolyols may be most especially preferred. [0072] Suitable silicones also include amino-functional silicones (S4), in particular the silicones combined under the INCI name amodimethicone. These include silicones having at least one amino group, optionally substituted. [0073] Such silicones can be described, for example, by the formula (S4-1) M(RaQbSiO( 4 -a-b)/ 2 ))x(RcSiO( 4

-C)

2 ))yM (S4-1) where R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical with one to approximately six carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula R 1 Z where R' is a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and to the Z radical, comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical, which contains at least one amino-functional group; "a" assumes values in the range of approximately 0 to approximately 2; "b" assumes values in the range from 1 to approximately 3; "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3 and "c" is a number in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3, and x is a number in the range from 1 to approximately 2000, 16 H 07112 preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 50 and most preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 25, and y is a number in the range from approximately 20 to approximately 10,000, preferably from approximately 125 to approximately 10,000 and most preferably from approximately 150 to approximately 1000, and M is a suitable terminal silicone group, such as that known in the state of the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Nonrestrictive examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halolhydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromo phenyl, chlorophenyl and the like as well as radicals containing sulfur such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; R is preferably an alkyl radical containing 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms and R is most preferably methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH 2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2 , phenylene, naphthylene, CH 2

CH

2

SCH

2

CH

2 , CH 2

CH

2 0CH 2 , OCH 2

CH

2 , OCH 2

CH

2

CH

2 ,

CH

2

CH(CH

3

)C(O)OCH

2 , (CH 2

)

3

C(O)OCH

2

CH

2 , C 6

H

4

C

6

H

4 , C 6

H

4

CH

2

C

6

H

4 and

(CH

2

)

3

C(O)SCH

2

CH

2 . [0074] Z is an organic amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. One possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 )zNH 2 , where z stands for an integer from 1 to 50. Another possible formula for Z is

NH(CH

2 )zNH(CH 2 )z, where z and zz independently of one another stand for an integer from 1 to 50, such that this structure comprises diamino ring structures. Z is especially preferably an NHCH 2

CH

2

NH

2 radical. Another possible formula for Z is N(CH 2 )zNX'X 2 or NX 1

X

2 in which X 1 and X 2 independently of one another are each selected from hydrogen and a hydrocarbon radical with one to approximately six carbon atoms. [0075] Q most especially preferably stands for a polar amino-functional radical of the formula CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

NHCH

2

CH

2

NH

2 . 17 H 07112 [0076] The molar ratio of RaQbSiO(4-a.-b)/2 units to RCSiO( 4 -c)/ 2 units is in the range from approximately 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:65 and especially preferably from approximately 1:15 to approximately 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the corresponding variable substituents in the above formula may be different in the different silicone components present in the silicone mixture. [0077] Preferred amino-functional silicones correspond to formula (S4-II)

R',G

3 -a-Si(OSiG 2 )n-OSiG bR'2. )m-O-SiG 3 .a-R'a (S4 - II), where - G is H, a phenyl group, OH, O-CH 3 , CH 3 , CH 2

CH

3 , CH 2

CH

2

CH

3 ,

CH(CH

3

)

2 , CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

CH

3 , CH 2

CH(CH

3

)

2 , CH(CH 3

)CH

2

CH

3 ,

C(CH

3

)

3 , - a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0, - b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular 1 to 10, - R' is a monovalent radical selected from o N(R")-CH2-CH2-N(R")2, o N(R")2, o N*(R")3A-, o N*H(R")2A-, o N*H2(R")A-, o N(R")-CH 2

-CH

2

-N*R"H

2

A

where each R" stands for the same or different radicals from the group H, phenyl, benzyl, the C1-20 alkyl radicals, preferably

CH

3 , CH 2

CH

3 , CH 2

CH

2

CH

3 , CH(CH 3

)

2 , CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

CH

3 ,

CH

2

CH(CH

3

)

2 , CH(CH 3

)CH

2

CH

3 , C(CH 3

)

3 and A- represent an 18 H 07112 anion, preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. [0078] Especially preferred amino-functional silicones corresponding to the formula (S4-Ill)

(CH

3 )jSi-[O-Si(CH 3 )2Ja(OSi(CH 3 )]m-OSi(CH 3

)

3 (S4 - ll),

CH

2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2

NH(CH

2 )2NH 2 in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. [0079] These silicones are also designated as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI Declaration. [0080] In addition, amino-functional silicones of the formula (S4-IV) are especially preferred: R-[Si(CH 3 )rO]ni[Si(R)-Om-(Si(CH 3 )2n 2 R (S4 - IV),

(CH

2

)

3

NH(CH

2

)

2

NH

2 where R stands for OH, O-CH 3 or a CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. [0081] These silicones are designated as amodimethicones according to the INCI Declaration and are available in the form of an emulsion as the commercial product Dow Corning* 949, for example, in mixture with a cationic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant. 19 H 07112 [0082] Such amino-functional silicones that have an amine number above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular preferably above 0.4 meq/g are preferred. The amine number stands for milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. This can be determined by titration and is also given in units of mg KOH/g. [0083] Other suitable silicones include, for example: - oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric and pentameric compounds, distributed by Dow Corning as the commercial products DC 245 Fluid, DC 344 and/or DC 345, - hexamethyldisiloxane (INCI name: hexamethyldisiloxane), e.g. the product distributed under the brand name Abil* K 520, - polyphenylmethylsiloxanes (INCI name: phenyl trimethicone), e.g. the commercial product DC 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning, - esters as well as the partial esters of silicone-glycol copolymers, e.g. those distributed by the company Fanning under the brand name Fancorsil* LIM (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol meadowfoamate), - anionic silicone oil, such as the product Dow Corning* 1784, for example. [0084] According to a preferred embodiment, the inventive agent contains at least two different silicone derivatives, preferably a combination of a volatile silicone and a nonvolatile silicone in particular. Volatile in the sense of the invention are those silicones having a volatility equal to or greater than the volatility of the cyclic pentameric dimethylsiloxane. Such combinations are also available as commercial products (e.g. Dow Corning* 1401, Dow Corning* 1403 and Dow Corning* 1501, each of which is a mixture of a cyclomethicone and a dimethiconol). [0085] Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols. A most especially preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic 20 H 07112 dimethiconol and/or dimethicone, at least one additional noncyclic dimethicone and/or dimethiconol and at least one other amino-functional silicone. [0086] If different silicones are used in a mixture, then the mixing ratio is largely variable. However, all silicones used for the mixture are preferably used in a ratio of 5:1 to 1:5 in the case of a binary mixture. A ratio of 3:1 to 1:3 is especially preferred. Most especially preferred mixtures contain all silicones contained in the mixture largely in a ratio of approximately 1:1, each based on the starting amounts in wt%. [0087] The agents preferably contain the silicones in amounts of 1-25 wt%, especially preferably 5-20 wt% and most especially preferably 7-15 wt%, based on the total agent. [0088] Although the inventive agent preferably contains a silicone derivative as the care substance, it is also possible for the agent to contain at least one care substance of another class of compounds in addition to or instead of a silicone component. [0089] The agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and/or one of its derivatives as the care substance of another class of compounds. [0090] Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures obtained by acid-, base- or enzyme-catalyzed degradation of proteins. The protein hydrolyzate is also understood according to the this invention to include total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. In addition, polymers constructed of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are also understood to fall under the concept of protein hydrolyzates according to the invention. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Other examples of compounds usable according to the invention include L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D/L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. B-Amino acids and their derivatives such as B-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid may of course also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates usable according to the invention is between 21 H 07112 75 daltons, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000 daltons; the molecular weight is preferably 75 to 50,000 daltons and most especially preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. [0091] Protein hydrolyzates of vegetable as well as animal origin or marine or synthetic origin may be used according to the invention. [0092] Animal protein hydrolyzates include, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolyzates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are distributed, for example, under the brand names Dehylan* (Cognis), Promois* (Interorgana), Collapuron* (Cognis), Nutrilan* (Cognis), Gelita-Sol* (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co.), Lexein® (Inolex), Sericine (Pentapharm) and Kerasol* (Croda). [0093] The use of silk protein hydrolyzates is especially interesting. Silk is understood to refer to the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of fibroin, a double fiber. Sericine as a cementing substance holds these double fibers together. Silk consists of 70-80 wt% fibroin, 19-28 wt% sericine, 0.5-1 wt% fat and 0.5-1 wt% dyes and mineral ingredients. [0094] The essential ingredients of sericine constitute approximately 46 wt% hydroxyamino acids. Sericine consists of a group of five to six proteins. The essential amino acids of sericine include serine (Ser 37 wt%), aspartate (Asp 26 wt%), glycine (Gly 17 wt%), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr). [0095] The water-insoluble fibroin is classified with the scleroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure. The main components of fibroin are glycine (44 wt%), alanine (26 wt%) and tyrosine (13 wt%). Another essential structural feature of fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly. [0096] Technically, it s readily possible to separate the two silk proteins from one another. Therefore, it is not surprising that both sericine and fibroin are known separately as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. In addition, protein hydrolyzates and derivatives on the basis of the individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic agents. For example, sericine as such is 22 H 07112 distributed by the company Pentapharm Ltd. as a commercial product with the brand name Sericine Code 303-02. Fibroin is offered on the market far more frequently as a protein hydrolyzate with various molecular weights. These hydrolyzates are distributed as "silk hydrolyzates" in particular. For example, hydrolyzed fibroin with an average molecular weight between 350 and 1000 is distributed under the brand name Promois* silk. [0097] The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives from sericine and fibroin are each known separately in the literature. For example, the retail brochure from the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericine on the skin as relieving irritation, hydrating and forming a film. The effect of a fibroin derivative is described in DE 31 39 438 Al, for example, as a care and finishing effect on the hair. According to DE 102 40 757 Al, with a simultaneous use of sericine and fibroin and/or their derivatives and/or hydrolyzates, a synergistic increase in the positive effects of silk proteins and their derivatives can also be achieved. [0098] Therefore, an active ingredient complex (A) consisting of the active ingredient (Al) selected from sericine, sericine hydrolyzates and/or its derivatives, as well as mixtures thereof and an active ingredient (A2) selected from fibroin and/or fibroin hydrolyzates and/or derivatives thereof and/or mixtures thereof is preferably used as the silk protein hydrolyzates in the inventive agent. [0099] The active ingredient complex (A) significantly improves the essential internal and external structural features described above and the strengths and elasticity of human hair in a synergistic manner. [0100] The following may be used as active ingredients (Al) in the active ingredient complex (A): - native sericine, - hydrolyzed and/or further derivatized sericine such as commercial products having the INCI names sericine, hydrolyzed sericine or hydrolyzed silk, - a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and/or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts, such as 23 H 07112 hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, for example, where the sericine and/or its derivatives are present in this mixture in amounts of up to 20 to 60 wt%, the aspartate and/or its derivatives are present in amounts of up to 10-40 wt% and the glycine and/or its derivatives are present in amounts of up to 5 to 30 wt%, with the provision that the amounts of these amino acids and/or their derivatives preferably supplement one another to a total of 100 wt%, - as well as mixtures thereof. [0101] The following may be used as active ingredients (A2) in the active ingredient complex (A): - native fibroin converted to a soluble form, - hydrolyzed and/or further derivatives fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin containing as the main component the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, - the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, - a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and/or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, where glycine and/or its derivatives are present in this mixture in amounts of 20-60 wt%, alanine and its derivatives are present in amounts of 10-40 wt%, tyrosine and its derivatives are present in amounts of 0 to 25 wt%, with the provision that the amounts of these amino acids and/or their derivatives preferably supplement one another to 100 wt%, - as well as mixtures thereof. [0102] Especially good care properties can be achieved when one of the two active ingredient components of the active ingredient complex (A) is used in the native form or at any rate in the solubilized form. It is also possible to use a mixture of several active ingredients (Al) and/or (A2). [0103] It may be preferable for the two active ingredients (Al) and (A2) to be used in the inventive agents in a ratio of 10:90 to 70:30, in particular 15:85 to 24 H 07112 50:50 and most especially 20:80 to 40:60, based on their respective active ingredient contents in the inventive agents. [0104] The derivatives of the hydrolyzates of seracine and fibroin comprise both anionic and cationized protein hydrolyzates. Protein hydrolyzates of sericine and fibroin as well as the derivatives produced from them can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkali or acid hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Hydrolysis of proteins usually yields a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Such protein hydrolyzates of sericine and fibroin and/or their derivatives whose basic protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons, are preferred. In addition, cationic protein hydrolyzates of sericine and fibroin are also understood to include quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often performed by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl) N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)ammonium halides. In addition, the cationic protein hydrolyzates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and their derivatives that can be mentioned here as usable according to the invention include the commercially available products mentioned in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ( 7 th edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702), under the INCI names: cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk amino acids, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed silk, lauryl dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk. Typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention include the commercially available products mentioned in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ( 7 th edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702) under the INCI names: potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed silk, sodium lauroyl hydrolyzed silk or sodium stearoyl hydrolyzed silk. Ultimately, the 25 H 07112 following commercially available products are listed as typical examples of the derivatives from sericine and fibroin usable according to the invention under the INC names: ethyl ester of hydrolyzed silk and hydrolyzed silk PG propyl methyl silanediol. The following commercially available products with the INCI names may also be used according to the invention, although they are not necessarily preferred: palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-2, acetyl hexapeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-3, copper tripeptide 1, hexapeptide-1, hexapeptide-2, MEA hydrolyzed silk. [0105] The effect of the active complex (A) can be further enhanced by the addition of fatty substances. Fatty acids are understood to be fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be present in both solid form and liquid form in aqueous dispersion, as well as natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. [0106] Protein hydrolyzates of vegetable origin, e.g. soy, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates are obtainable, for example, under the brand names Gluadin* (Cognis), DiaMin* (Diamalt), Lexein* (Inolex), Hydrosoy* (Croda), Hydrolupin* (Croda), Hydrosesame* (Croda), Hydrotritium* (Croda) and Crotein* (Croda). [0107] Although the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, amino acid mixtures obtained by other methods may optionally also be used in place of them. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolyzates, e.g. in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are distributed, for example, under the brand names Lamepon* (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin* (Croda), Crosilk* (Croda) or Crotein (Croda). [0108] The inventive teaching of course includes all the isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers. [0109] According to the invention it is now also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolyzates. [0110] The protein hydrolyzates are present in the inventive agents, e.g. in concentrations of 0.01 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 15 wt% and most 26 H 07112 especially preferably in amounts of 0.05 wt% to 5 wt%, each based on the total usable preparation. [0111] In addition, cationic surfactants are suitable as the care substance of another class of compounds. [0112] Preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the type of quaternary ammonium compounds, ester quats and amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethyl benzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride as well as the imidazolium compounds known by the INCI names quaternium-27 and quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the surfactants listed above preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. [0113] The ester quats are known substances which contain at least one ester function plus at least one quaternary ammonium group as the structure element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkyl amines. Such products are distributed under the brand names Stepantex*, Dehyquart* and Armocare*, for example. The products Armocare* VGH-70, and N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxythyl)dimethylammonium chloride as well as Dehyquart* F-75, Dehyquart* C-4046, Dehyquart* L80 and Dehyquart* AU-35 are examples of such ester quats. [0114] The alkylamidoamines are usually synthesized by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A compound from this substance group that is especially suitable according to the invention is stearamidopropyldimethylamine, which is available commercially under the brand name Tegoamid* S 18. 27 H 07112 [0115] The cationic surfactants are preferably contained in the inventive agents in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt%, based on the total use preparation. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt% are especially preferred. [0116] Care polymers are likewise suitable as the care substance. It should be pointed out here that some care polymers also have film-forming and/or styling properties and therefore may also be included in the list of suitable film forming and/or styling polymers. [0117] A first group of the care polymers are the cationic polymers. Cationic polymers are understood to be polymers which have in the main chain and/or side chain a group that may be "temporarily" or "permanently" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" polymers are those which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, e.g. in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is attached via a C1.4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain composed of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their derivatives have proven to be especially suitable. [0118] Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I) R1 -{CHrC-]n X~ (G1-1) CO-O-(CH)m-N'R 2

R

3

R

4 in which R1 = H or CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another are selected from C 1 .4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X- is a physiologically tolerable organic or inorganic anion as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units included in formula (G1-1) as well as nonionic monomer units are especially preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, those for which at least one of the following conditions holds are preferred according to the invention: 28 H 07112 R1 stands for a methyl group,

R

2 , R 3 and R 4 stand for methyl groups, m has a value of 2. [0119] Physiologically tolerable ions X- that may be used include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions are preferred, in particular chloride. [0120] An especially suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked polymethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride with the INCI name polyquaternium-37. Crosslinking may be accomplished, if desired, with the help of olefinically polyunsaturated compounds, for example, divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ether or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylene bisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. [0121] The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion, which should have a polymer content of no less than 30 wt%. Such polymer dispersions are available commercially under the brand names Salcare* SC 95 (approximately 50% polymer content, other components: mineral oil (INCI name: mineral oil) and tridecylpolyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6) and Salcare* SC 96 (approximately 50% polymer content, other components: mixture of diesters or propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic acid and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate) and tridecylpolyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6). [0122] Copolymers with monomer units according to formula (Gl-l) contain as the nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1

.

4 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C 1

.

4 alkyl esters. Of these nonionic monomers, acrylamide is especially preferred. As in the case of the homopolymers described above, these copolymers may also be crosslinked. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide 29 H 07112 methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of approximately 20:80 are available commercially as an approximately 50% nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the brand name Salcare* SC 92. [0123] Other preferred cationic polymers include, for example: - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those available commercially under the brand names Celquat* and Polymer JR*. The compounds Celquat* H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR* 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE 44 13 686, - cationized honey, e.g. the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, - cationic guar derivatives such as the products distributed under the brand names Cosmedia* Guar and Jaguar* in particular, - polysiloxane with quaternized groups, such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning* 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil* Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80), - polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The products available commercially under the brand names Merquat* 100 (polydimethyl diallylammonium chloride) and Merquat® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) are examples of such cationic polymers, - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate. Such compounds are available commercially under the brand names Gafquat* 734 and Gafquat* 755, 30 H 07112 - vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the brand names Luviquat* FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, - as well as the polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain known by the brand names polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18 and polyquaternium-27. [0124] The products known by the brand names polyquaternium-24 (commercial product, e.g. Quatrisoft* LM 200) may likewise be used as cationic polymers. The copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as those available as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffix* VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), Gafquat* ASCP 1011, Gafquat* HS 110, Luviquat* 8155 and Luviquat* MS 370 can also be used according to the invention. [0125] Additional cationic polymers that may be used according to the invention include the so-called "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which is present as a quaternary ammonium group at certain pH levels and is thus in cationic form. For example, chitosan and its derivatives, such as those freely available commercially under the brand names Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, Kytamer® PC and Chitolam* NB/101 are preferred. [0126] Cationic polymers preferred for use according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer® JR 400, Hydagen® HCMF and Kytamer* PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives in particular the commercial product Honeyquat* 50, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE 44 13 686 and polymers of the polyquaternium-37 type are also preferred for use according to the invention. [0127] In addition, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted with the cationic polymers, where the underlying protein hydrolyzate may originate from an animal, e.g. collagen, milk or keratin, from a plant, e.g. wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, e.g. fish collagen or algae, or 31 H 07112 from bioengineered protein hydrolyzates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the inventive cationic derivatives are based may be obtained from the corresponding proteins by a chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkali or acid hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually yields a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Such cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein component has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons, are preferred. In addition, cationic protein hydrolyzates are understood to include quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often performed by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl) N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)ammonium halides. In addition, the cationic protein hydrolyzates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the inventive cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives include the products that are available commercially and are listed under the following INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ( 7 th edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, D.C. 20036-4702): cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed hair keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl/myristyl ether HCI, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed casein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein/siloxysilicate, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein/siloxysilicate, lauryldimonium 32 H 07112 hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed casein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed vegetable protein, steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, steartrimonium hydroxyethyl hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein. [0128] Most especially preferred are the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives based on plants, [0129] Amphoteric polymers preferred for use here are polymers composed essentially of (a) monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (11) R'-CH=CR2-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N*R3R4R5A- (11) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a methyl group, and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 each independently of one another stands for an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A~ is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Ill)

R

6

-CH=CR

7 -COOH (111) in which R and R 7 independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a methyl group. [0130] These compounds may be used according to the invention either directly or in salt form, obtained by neutralization of the polymers, e.g. with an alkali hydroxide. Most especially preferred are polymers in which monomers of type (a) are used, in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A~ is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. Acrylamidopropyl 33 H 07112 trimethyl ammonium chloride is an especially preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the aforementioned polymers. [0131] The inventive agents preferably contain the care polymers, cationic polymers and/or amphoteric polymers in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt%, in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 2 wt%, each based on the total use preparation. [0132] The inventive agent may also contain at least one vitamin, provitamin, vitamin precursor and/or one of their derivatives as the care substance. [0133] According to the invention, the preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are those which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. [0134] Retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ) belong to the group of substances referred to as vitamin A. B-Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. For example, vitamin A acid and esters thereof, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as the esters thereof, such as the palmitate and acetate, may be considered as the vitamin A component according to the invention. These agents preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1 wt%, based on the total use preparation. [0135] The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, for example: - Vitamin B 1 (thiamine) - Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin) - Vitamin B 3 . This term often includes the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide). According to the invention, nicotinamide, which is preferably present in the inventive agents in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt%, based on the total use preparation, is preferred. - Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within the scope of this group, panthenol and/or pantolactone is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol that may be used according to the invention include in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives include, for example, 34 H 07112 panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The aforementioned compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferred in the inventive agents, preferably in amounts of 0.05-10 wt%, based on the entire use preparation. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt% are especially preferred. - Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). The afore mentioned compounds of the vitamin B 6 type are preferably present in amounts of 0.01-5 wt%, based on the total use preparation. Amounts of 0.05-1 wt% are especially preferred. [0136] Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the inventive agents in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt%, based on the total use preparation. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. [0137] Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are also contained in the inventive agents in amounts of 0.05-1 wt%, based on the total use preparation. [0138] Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood to refer to essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. [0139] Vitamin H. Vitamin H refers to the compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid, although the trivial name biotin has become popular for it in the meantime. Biotin is preferably contained in the inventive agents in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt%, each based on the total use preparation. [0140] The inventive agents preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, C, E and H. [0141] Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are especially preferred. 35 H 07112 [0142] D-Panthenol, optionally in combination with at least one of the aforementioned silicone derivatives, is most especially preferred used as a care substance. [0143] As in the addition of glycerol and/or propylene glycol, the addition of panthenol also increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the inventive agent. Thus, if an especially flexible hold is desired, the inventive agents may contain panthenol instead of or in addition to glycerol and/or propylene glycol. In a preferred embodiment, the inventive agents preferably contain panthenol in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt%, especially preferably 0.1-5 wt%, each based on the total agent. [0144] The inventive agents may also contain at least one plant extract as a care substance. [0145] These extracts are usually prepared by extraction from the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferable to prepare the extracts exclusively from the flowers and/or leaves of the plant. [0146] With regard to the plant extracts preferred according to the invention, reference is made in particular to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3 rd edition of the Leitfaden zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel [Guideline for Declaration of Ingredients of Cosmetic Agents], published by the Industrial Association for Body Care Agents and Detergents (IKW) Frankfurt. [0147] Especially preferred according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, common horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, thyme, creeping thyme, yarrow, melissa, spiny restharrow, coltsfoot, marsh mallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. [0148] The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, common horsetail, linden blossom, almond, aloe 36 H 07112 vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, lady's smock, creeping thyme, yarrow, spiny restharrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are especially preferred. [0149] Most especially suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi and melon. [0150] Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof may be used as extracting agents for producing the aforementioned plant extracts. Of the alcohols, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are preferred both as the sole extracting agent, also in mixture with water. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10:1 have proven to be especially suitable. [0151] The plant extracts may be used in either pure or diluted form according to the invention. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain approximately 2-80 wt% active substance and, as the solvent, the extracting agent or extracting agent mixture used to extract them. [0152] In addition, it may be preferable to use mixtures of several plant extracts in the inventive agents, in particular two different plant extracts. [0153] In addition, a number of carboxylic acids are suitable as the care substance. [0154] Short-chain carboxylic acids in particular may be advantageous in the sense of the invention. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the sense of the invention are understood to be carboxylic acids, which may be saturated or unsaturated and/or linear or branched or cyclic and/or aromatic and/or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. Preferred in the sense of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain. Those with a chain length of 1 to 12 carbon atoms in the chain are most especially preferred. 37 H 07112 [0155] The short-chain carboxylic acids in the sense of the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxyl groups. In the sense of the invention, carboxylic acids having multiple carboxyl groups, in particular dicarboxylic acids and tricarboxylic acids, are preferred. The carboxyl group may be entirely or partially present in the form of the ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxame, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic ester or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids usable according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure. The substituents of the carboxylic acids usable according to the invention include, for example, C-C 8 alkyl, C 2

-C

8 alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2

-C

8 hydroxyalkyl, C 2

-C

8 hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C 2

-C

8 aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxyl or imino groups. Preferred substituents are Cj-C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxyl groups. Especially preferred are substituents in a position. Most especially preferred substituents are hydroxyl groups, alkoxy groups and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and/or alkenyl radicals. In addition, the phosphonic acid esters and phosphate esters are also preferred carboxylic acid derivatives. [0156] Examples of carboxylic acids usable according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o-, m-, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoylic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naph thalinepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propanetricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of general formula (N-1) 38 H 07112 Z (CnH2r)COOH X Y (N-1) where Z stands for a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n stands for a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two X and Y groups stands for a COOH group and the other stands for hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (N-I), which additionally have one to three methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring as well as dicarboxylic acids formed from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-1) by addition of one molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring. [0157] Dicarboxylic acids of formula (N-1) are known in the literature. For example, a synthesis process is described in US Patent 3,753,968 A. [0158] Dicarboxylic acids of formula (N-1) can be synthesized, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. This will usually start with a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Linoleic acid, which is accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred. The preferred monocarboxylic acid component is in particular acrylic acid, but also methacrylic acid, for example, and crotonic acid. A Diels-Alder reaction usually yields isomer mixtures, in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures may be used according to this invention as well as the pure compounds. [0159] In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-1), dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (N-1) by one to three methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or which are formed from these compounds formally by addition of one molecule 39 H 07112 of water onto the double bond of the cyclohexene ring may also be used according to the invention. [0160] The dicarboxylic acid (mixture) obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid is especially effective according to the invention. This is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acids. Such compounds are commercially available under the brand names Westvaco Diacid* 1550 and Westvaco Diacid* 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco). [0161] In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids mentioned as examples above, their physiologically tolerable salts may also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts include the alkali salts, alkaline earth salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which are understood to also include as part of the present application the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. However, most especially preferred within the scope of the present invention are acids neutralized with alkaline-reacting amino acids, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. In addition, it may be preferable for formulation reasons to select the carboxylic acid from the water soluble examples, in particular the water-soluble salts. [0162] It is also preferably according to the invention to use 2-pyrrolidinone 5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives as the carboxylic acid. The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion has one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen are especially preferred. The sodium salt is most especially preferred. The starting amounts in the inventive agent are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt%, based on the total use preparation, especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt% and in particular preferably 0.1 to 3 wt%. [0163] In addition, it is preferable according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids. It has been found here that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters as well as mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters may be most especially preferred. 40 H 07112 Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters include, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Other hydroxycarboxylic acid esters that are fundamentally preferred include the esters of R-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, saccharic acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters include primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols with 8-22 carbon atoms, e.g. fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C 12

-C

15 fatty alcohols are especially preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. under the brand name Cosmacol* from EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Especially preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids include polylactic acid and polytartaric acid as well as their esters. [0164] In addition, ectoin or ectoin derivatives, allantoin, taurine and/or bisabolol are suitable as the care substance. [0165] According to the invention, the term "ectoin and ectoin derivatives" is understood to refer to compounds of the formula (IV) N-(C-R )n H,, 11 (IVa) N--(C-R)n (IVb) RN N R R N R H and/or their physiologically tolerable salts and/or an isomeric or stereoisomeric form, in which

R

10 stands for a hydrogen atom, a branched or unbranched C 1

-C

4 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,

R

11 stands for a hydrogen atom, a COOR 1 4 group or a CO(NH)R 1 4 group, where R1 4 stands for a hydrogen atom, a C 1

-C

4 alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide radical or a tripeptide radical,

R

12 and R 13 independently of one another stand for a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group with the provision that the two radicals may not stand for a hydroxyl group at the same time, and n stands for an integer from 1 to 3. 41 H 07112 [0166] Suitable physiologically tolerable salts of the general compounds according to formula (IVa) or (lVb) are, for example, the alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, triethylamine or tris-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine salts as well as those derived from the reaction of compounds according to formula (IVa) or (lVb) with organic and inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted (for example, by one or more hydroxyl groups) C 1

-C

4 mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and sulfonic acids, such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, and p-toluenesulfonic acid. Examples of especially preferred physiologically tolerable salts include the Na, K, Mg and Ca salts as well as the ammonium salts of the compounds according to formula (IVa) or (lVb) and the salts derived by reaction of compounds according to formula (IVa) or (lVb) with hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, citric acid and benzoic acid. [0167] According to the invention, isomeric or stereoisomeric forms of the compounds according to formula (IVa) or (lVb) are understood to include all the optical isomers, diastereomers, racemates, zwitterions, cations or mixtures thereof that occur. [0168] The term "amino acid" is understood to refer to the stereoisomeric forms, e.g. the D- and L-forms of the following compounds: asparagine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, B-alanine, y-aminobutyrate, NE-acetyllysine, No-acetylornithine, Ny-acetyldiaminobutyrate, Na-acetyldiamino butyrate, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, threonine and tyrosine. [0169] L-Amino acids are preferred. Amino acid radicals are derived from the corresponding amino acids. The following amino acid radicals are preferred: Gly, Ala, Ser, Thr, Val, B-Ala, y-aminobutyrate, Asp, Glu, Asn, Aln, N-acetyl lysine, N6-acetylornithine, Ny-acetyldiaminobutyrate, Na-acetyldiaminobutyrate. [0170] The abbreviated notation of amino acids is based on the nomenclature that is customary in general. The dipeptide or tripeptide radicals are acid amides in terms of their chemical structure and break down through hydrolysis 42 H 07112 into two or three amino acids. The amino acids in the dipeptide or tripeptide radical are linked together by amide bonds. [0171] With regard to synthesis of dipeptide and tripeptide radicals, reference is made explicitly to EP 0 671 161 Al by the company Marbert. Examples of dipeptide and tripeptide radicals can be found in the disclosure of EP 0 671 161 Al. [0172] Examples of C-C 4 alkyl groups in the compounds of formula (IV) include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl. Preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl. Methyl is an especially preferred alkyl group. Preferred C 2

-C

4 hydroxyalkyl groups include the groups 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl; 2-hydroxyethyl is an especially preferred hydroxyalkyl group. [0173] The inventive agents preferably contain these care substances in amounts of 0.001 to 2 wt%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, each based on the total use preparation. [0174] Mono- and/or oligosaccharides may also be used as the care substance in the inventive agent. [0175] Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, e.g. cane sugar, lactose and raffinose may be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Of the monosaccharides, compounds containing five or six carbon atoms are preferred. [0176] Suitable pentoses and hexoses include, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferred carbohydrates for use here. Most especially preferred for use here is glucose, which is suitable in either the D-(+) or L-(-) configuration or as a racemate. [0177] In addition, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses such as the corresponding aldonic and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and 43 H 07112 glycosides may also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugar acids are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, saccharic acid, mannosaccharic acid and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols include sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methyl glucosides. [0178] Since the monosaccharides and/or oligosaccharides that are used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have configurations corresponding to these raw materials (e.g. D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose). [0179] The monosaccharides and/or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the inventive agents in an amount of 0.1 to 8 wt%, in particular preferably 1 to 5 wt%, based on the total use preparation. [0180] The agents may also contain at least one lipid as the care substance. [0181] Lipids suitable according to the invention include phospholipids, soy lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalins as well as the substances known by the INCI names linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, cocoamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate and stearamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride phosphate. These products are distributed by the company Mona, for example, under the brand names Phospholipid EFA*, Phospholipid PTC* and Phospholipid SV*. [0182] The inventive agents preferably contain the lipids in amounts of 0.01-10 wt%, in particular 0.1-5 wt%, based on the total use preparation. [0183] In addition, oil substances are also suitable as the care substance. [0184] The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil substances include, for example: - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils include sunflower oil, olive oil, soy oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid fractions of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils, such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable. 44 H 07112 - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons as well as di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclo hexane (Cetiol* S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol* OE) obtainable as commercial products may be preferred. - ester oils. Ester oils are understood to be the esters of C 6

-C

30 fatty acids with C 2 -C3 0 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols with 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of the fatty acid fractions used in the esters include caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucaic acid as well as their technical-grade mixtures that are obtained, e.g. in cracking of natural fats and oils under pressure, in oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol fractions in the ester oils include isopropyl alcohol, hexanol, 1-octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical-grade mixtures which are obtained, e.g. in high-pressure hydrogenation of technical-grade methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis as well as monomer fractions in dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Especially preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit* 24), isononanoic acid C 16

-

18 alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft* 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl 45 H 07112 oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coco fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate (Cetiol* LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol* J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit* IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol*), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol* A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol* B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol* SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol* V). - dicarboxylic acid esters, such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethyl hexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, e.g. as described in Unexamined German Patent Application DE OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol* CC), - trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol, - fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to include monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical-grade mixtures. When using technical-grade products, small quantities of triglycerides may be present due to the production process. The partial glycerides preferably conform to formula (D4-l):

CH

2 0(CH 2

CH

2 O)mR'

CHO(CH

2

CH

2

O),R

2 (D4-1)

CH

2

O(CH

2

CH

2 0),R 3 in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 , independently of one another, stand for hydrogen or for a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the provision that at least one of these groups stands for an acyl radical and at least one of these groups stands for hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) stands for 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably for 0 or 5 to 25. R' preferably stands for an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 stand for hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 46 H 07112 0. Typical examples include monoglycerides and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyihexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeosteric acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucaic acid as well as their technical-grade mixtures. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferred for use. [0185] The quantity of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil substances used in the inventive agents is usually 0.1-30 wt%, based on the total use preparation, preferably 0.1-20 wt% and in particular 0.1-15 wt%. [0186] The agent may also contain an enzyme as the care substance. Enzymes especially preferred according to the invention are selected from a group formed by proteases, lipases, transglutaminase, oxidases and peroxidases. [0187] Pearl extracts are also suitable as the care substance. [0188] Pearls from oysters consist essentially of organic and inorganic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be obtained easily from cultured oysters. The oysters may be cultured in fresh water as well as in seawater. This may have effects on the ingredients of the pearls. Preferred according to the invention is a pearl extract originating from oysters cultured in seawater, i.e., salt water. The pearls consist mostly of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter ingredients are proteins. In addition, pearls also contain sodium and magnesium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and phosphates. [0189] To produce the pearl extract, the pearls are pulverized. Then the pulverized pearls are extracted using conventional methods. Extracting agents that may be used to prepare the pearl extracts include water, alcohols and mixtures thereof. Water is understood to include both demineralized water and seawater. The alcohols include low alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyvalent alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol as the sole 47 H 07112 extracting agent, also in mixture with the mineralized water or seawater. Pearl extracts based on water/glycerol mixtures have proven to be especially suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the peal proteins (conchiolin and albuminoid) may be largely present in native state or may already be partially or largely in the form of protein hydrolyzates. A pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already present in a partially hydrolyzed form is preferred. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine, aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In another especially preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the pearl extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine. In addition, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular as a function of the choice of extracting agent, a more or less large amount of minerals and trace elements is found in the extract. A preferred extract contains organic and/or inorganic calcium salts and magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic calcium compounds and/or phosphates. A most especially preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, especially preferably 90% and most especially preferably 90% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls. Examples of pearl extracts usable according to the invention include the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG* or Crodarom* Pearl. [0190] The pearl extracts described above are preferably present in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20 wt%. Amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt% are preferred, and amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt%, based on the total use preparation, are most especially preferred. [0191] Although each of the aforementioned care substances by itself already yields a satisfactory result, all embodiments in which the agent contains multiple care substances, even from different groups, are also included within the scope of the present invention. [0192] By adding a UV filter, the agents themselves as well as the treated fibers can be protected from harmful effects of UV radiation. Therefore, preferably at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters 48 H 07112 are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and physical properties. Instead, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetic field whose absorption maximum is in the UVA range (315-400 nm), UVB range (280-315 nm) or UVC range (<280 nm). UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UV range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 nm to approximately 300 nm are especially preferred. [0193] The preferred UV filters according to the invention may be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters, for example. [0194] Examples of UV filters usable according to the invention include 4-aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalate), 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3, Uvinul* M 40, Uvasorb* MET, Neo Heliopan* BB, Eusolex* 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Parsol* HS, Neo Heliopan* Hydro), 3,3'-(1, 4-phenylenedimethyl ene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethanesulfonic acid) and their salts, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Parsol* 1789, Eusolex* 9020), a-(2-oxoborn-3 ylidene)toluene-4-sulfonic acid and their salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic ethyl esters (PEG-25 PABA, Uvinul® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2 ethylhexyl ester (octyldimethyl PABA, Uvasorb* DMO, Escaloi* 507, Eusolex* 6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate, Escaloi* 487, Neo Heliopan* OS, Uvinul* 018), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, Neo Heliopan* E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester (octyl methoxycinnamate, Parsol* MCX, Escaloi* 557, Neo Heliopan* AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (benzophenone-4, Uvinul* MS 40, Uvasorb* S 5), 3-(4'-methyl benzylidene)-D,L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Parsol* 5000, Eusolex* 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 49 H 07112 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and its ethyl esters, polymers of N-{(2- and 4)-[ 2 -oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}acrylam ides, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophen one (benzophenone-1, Uvasorb* 20 H, Uvinul* 400), 1,1'-diphenylacrylonitrile 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene, Eusolex* OCR, Neo Heliopan* Type 303, Uvinul* N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate, Neo Heliopan* MA), 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-2, Uvinul® D-50), 2,2'-d ihyd roxy-4,4'-d imethoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone 5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano 3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preferred are 4-aminobenzoic acid, ,N,N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-tri methylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethylene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]

.

hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4 methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, a-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4 dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N-{(2 and 4

)-[

2 -oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}acrylamide. Most especially preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor. [0195] UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000 are preferred. [0196] In addition, it has been found that with structurally similar UV filters, in many cases the water-insoluble compound within the scope of the inventive teaching has a higher effect in comparison with water-soluble compounds that 50 H 07112 differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. Water-insoluble in the scope of the invention is understood to refer to UV filters which do not dissolve more than 1 wt% in water at 20 0 C, in particular no more than 1 wt%. In addition, these compounds should be at least 0.1 wt% soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature, in particular at least 1 wt% soluble. Use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention. [0197] According to another embodiment of the invention, UV filters having a cationic group are preferred, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. [0198] These UV filters have the general structure U-Q. [0199] The structure part U stands for a group that absorbs UV radiation. This group may be derived in principle from the known UV filters mentioned above that can be used in the cosmetic field in which one group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function. [0200] Compounds from which structure part U can be derived include, for example - substituted benzophenones, - p-aminobenzoic acid esters, - diphenylacrylic acid esters, - cinnamic acid esters, - salicylic acid esters, - benzimidazoles and - o-aminobenzoic acid esters. [0201] Structure parts U, which are derived from cinnamamide or from N,N-dimethylaminobenzoamide, are preferred according to the invention. [0202] Structure parts U may be selected in principle so that the absorption maximum of the UV filters may be in the UVA range (315-400 nm) as well as in the UVB range (280-315 nm) or in the UVC range (<280 nm). UV filters with an 51 H 07112 absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 nm to approximately 300 nm, are especially preferred. [0203] In addition, the structure part U is preferably also selected as a function of structure part Q, so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular, above 20,000. [0204] The structure part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group. The quaternary ammonium group may in principle be connected directly to the structure part U, so that the structure part U represents one of the four constituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, preferably one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group with 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as the link between structure part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom. [0205] The group Q advantageously has general structure (CH 2 )xN*RR 2

R

3

X

in which x stands for an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another stand for a C1.4 alkyl group, R 3 stands for a C1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X- stands for a physiologically tolerable anion. Within the scope of this general structure, x preferably stands for the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each stand for a methyl group and R3 stands for either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 18 carbon atoms. [0206] Physiologically tolerable anions include, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions as well as organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate. [0207] Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (Incroquat* UV-283) and dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethyl ammonium tosylate (Escaloi* HP 610). 52 H 07112 [0208] The inventive teaching of course also includes the use of a combination of multiple UV filters. Within the scope of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter having a cationic group is preferred. [0209] The UV filters are usually present in amount of 0.01-5 wt%, based on the total use preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt% are preferred. [0210] In an especially preferred embodiment, the inventive agent also contains one or more direct dyes. This makes it possible for the treated keratinic fiber not only to be temporarily structured but also to be dyed at the same time when using this agent. This may be desirable in particular when only a temporary dyeing, e.g. with striking fashion colors that can be removed from the keratinic fibers again by simple washing is desired. [0211] Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred direct dyes are the compounds known under the international designations and/or brand names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57:1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro 4-(B-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1 -amino-4-(2'-hydroxyeth yl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro -1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and their salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. 53 H 07112 [0212] Cationic direct dyes are preferred for use. Especially preferred here are (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, (b) aromatic systems which are substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 as well as (c) direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom such as those mentioned in Claims 6 to 11 of EP A2-998 908, to which reference is made explicitly here. [0213] Preferred cationic direct dyes of group (c) include in particular the following compounds: 54 H 07112 H CH 3 - I ( Z1

H

3 C"

CH

3 S0 4 [- CH 3 N N ,N N(DZ2) H3C N7:fOCH 3 Cl. Nf N \ H H (DZ3)

CR

3

CH

3 H N N ~\N N/& CH 3 (DZ4) CN CH3 (DZ5

CH

3 C3 N /N -- & N IN \- H (DZ6)

CH

3 CI-' C3H 2 N N55 H 07112

H

3 CsN (DZ7) C 11 3 C1,

H

3 C CH

H

3 CHN (DZ8)

KR

3 c r

H

3 C Cf N- CH3 H3C (DZ9) [0214] The compounds of formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are known by the designations Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are most especially preferred cationic direct dyes of group (c). [0215] The cationic direct dyes distributed under the brand name Arianor* are also very especially preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. [0216] The inventive agents according to this embodiment preferably contain the direct dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt% based on the total agent. [0217] In addition, the inventive agents may also contain naturally occurring dyes such as those contained in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile blossoms, sandalwood, black tee, glossy buckthorn bark, sage, bloodwood tree, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root. [0218] It is not necessary for the direct dyes to each constitute uniform compounds. Instead, other component may also be present in subordinate amounts in the inventive agents due to the production process for the individual dyes, inasmuch as they do not have a negative effect on the styling result or must be excluded for other reasons, e.g. toxicological. 56 H 07112 [0219] In addition to the aforementioned components, these agents may also contain all of the active ingredients, additives and auxiliary substances known for such preparations. [0220] Additional active ingredients, auxiliary agents and additives include, for example: - thickeners such as agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, carob bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. methylcellulose, hyd roxyalkylcellu lose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates, - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid, - perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins, - solvents and solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, - quaternized amines, such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, - foam suppressants, such as silicones, - dyes for dyeing the agent, - antidandruff active ingredients, such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, - substances for adjusting the pH, such as the usual acids, in particular acids from edible nonfood substance and bases, - cholesterol, - consistency regulators, such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, - fatty acid alkanolamides, - chelating agents such as EDTA, NTA, -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, 57 H 07112 - swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, - opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide copolymers, - pearlizing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, - preservatives, - stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents, - propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 0, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, - antioxidants. [0221] With regard to other optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is made explicitly to the relevant textbooks with which those skilled in the art are familiar. [0222] The inventive agents may be formulated in all the forms conventional for styling agents, e.g. in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair tonic or pump sprays or aerosol sprays, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or even foaming solutions that contain surfactants or other preparations suitable for application to the hair. [0223] Hair creams and hair gels usually contain structurants and/or thickening polymers, which serve to impart the desired consistency to the products. Structurants and/or thickener polymers are typically used in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt%, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt% in particular 0.5 to 3 wt% are preferred. [0224] The inventive agents are preferably finished as a pump spray, aerosol spray, pump styling mousse or aerosol mousse. [0225] The term "mousse" is understood to refer to compositions which produce a foam when taken from the suitable container. It may be necessary to add to these agents ingredients that promote foaming or stabilize the foam 58 H 07112 once it is formed. In particular, surfactants and/or emulsifiers are suitable for this. [0226] If the inventive products are an aerosol product, it must necessarily contain a propellant. [0227] Propellants suitable according to the invention include, for example,

N

2 0, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , air and alkanes with 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane and mixtures thereof. Dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof are preferred. [0228] According to a preferred embodiment, the aforementioned alkanes, mixtures of the aforementioned alkanes or mixtures of the aforementioned alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as the only propellant. However, the invention also explicitly includes the joint use of propellants of the fluorochlorocarbon type, in particular fluorocarbons. [0229] With a given spray device, the sizes of the aerosol droplets and/or the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be adjusted through the quantity ratio of propellant to the usual components of the preparations with a given spray device. [0230] The amount of propellant used varies as a function of the specific composition of the agent, the packaging used and the type of product desired, e.g. hair spray or hairstyling mousse. When using traditional spray devices, the aerosol mousse products preferably contain the propellant in amounts of 1 to 35 wt%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt%, in particular 3 to 15 wt% are especially preferred. Aerosol sprays in general contain larger amounts of propellant. The propellant in this case is preferably used in an amount of 30 to 98 wt%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt% in particular 50 to 95 wt% are especially preferred. [0231] Aerosol products can be produced in the usual manner. As a rule, all the ingredients of the respective agent except the propellant are placed in a 59 H 07112 suitable pressure-resistant container, which is then sealed with a valve. Finally, the desired amount of propellant is added by traditional techniques. [0232] The inventive agents are especially preferably finished as an aerosol styling mousse. [0233] A second subject of the invention is therefore aerosol styling mousses containing the inventive agents and at least one propellant. [0234] Preferred inventive agents and propellants of the aerosol styling mousse as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to what has already been said above. [0235] To promote foaming or to stabilize a foam once it is formed, the aerosol mousses preferably contain at least one surfactant and/or emulsifier. A cationic surfactant such as that already described as a suitable care substance above is preferred. With regard to the preferred cationic surfactants and the amounts used, the above statements apply accordingly. [0236] In addition to or instead of the cationic surfactants, the aerosol mousses may contain other surfactants or emulsifiers, but in principle both anionic and ampholytic as well as nonionic surfactants and all types of known emulsifiers are suitable. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants comprises zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. These surfactants may already have an emulsifying effect. [0237] However, the aerosol mousses preferably contain at least one cationic surfactant. Aerosol mousses especially preferably contain only cationic surfactants. [0238] In principle, all anionic surface-active substances that are suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and have a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups may be 60 H 07112 present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants, each in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, as well as the mono-, di and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group include: - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), - ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-O-(CH 2

-CH

2 0)-CH 2 -COOH in which R stands for a linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyl taurides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups, - linear alkanesulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - linear alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - alpha-sulfofatty methyl esters of fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, - alkyl sulfates and alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O-(CH 2 CH 2 O)x-OSO 3 H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, - sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene glycol ethers and/or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers, - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols that are the addition products of approximately 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula (El-) 61 H 07112 0 II

R

1

(OCH

2

CH

2 )n, -0 - P --OR 2 (El-I) Ox in which R' preferably stands for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 stands for hydrogen, a radical (CH 2

CH

2 0)nR or X, n stands for numbers from 1 to 10, and X stands for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3

R

4

R

5 R', where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another stand for hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, - sulfated fatty alkylene glycol esters of formula (E1-11)

R

7 CO(AlkO)nSO 3 M (E1-l) in which R 7 CO stands for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk stands for CH 2

CH

2 ,

CHCH

3

CH

2 and/or CH 2

CHCH

3 , n stands for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation such as that described in Unexamined German Patent Application DE-OS 197 36 906, - monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of formula (El-Ill)

CH

2 0(CH 2

CH

2 0)- COR 8

CHO(CH

2

CH

2 O)yH

CH

2 0(CH 2

CH

2

O)--SO

3 X (El1-111) in which R 8 CO stands for a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in the sum stand for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates that are suitable in the sense of the invention include the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coco fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride as well as their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or 62 H 07112 chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates of formula (El-Ill) in which R 8 CO stands for a linear acyl radical with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - amide ether carboxylic acids, - condensation products of C 8

-C

3 0 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and/or amino acids and their derivatives with which those skilled in the art are familiar as protein fatty acid condensates such as the products of the types known by the names Lamepon*, Gluadin*, Hostapon* KCG or Amisoft*. [0239] Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups, monoglycerol disulfate, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphates and protein fatty acid condensates. [0240] Zwitterionic surfactants are understood to refer to those surface-active compounds, which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one COO~ or S0 3 ~ group in the molecule. Especially suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example, the coco alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example, the coco acylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as the coco acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate . A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine. [0241] Ampholytes are understood to be surface-active compounds which have at least one free amino group and at least one COOH or SO 3 H group in addition to one C 8

-C

24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic 63 H 07112 acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Especially preferred ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C1 2

-C

18 acylsarcosine. [0242] Nonionic surfactants contain as the hydrophilic group, e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds include, for example: - addition products of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - addition products of 2 to 50 mol ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group with end capping of said addition products with a methyl radical or a C 2

-C

6 alkyl radical, e.g. the products available under the brand names Dehydol* LS, Dehydol* LT (Cognis), - C 12

-C

30 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, - polyol fatty acid esters, e.g. the commercial product Hydagen* HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol products (Cognis), - alkoxylated triglycerides, - alkoxylated fatty alkyl esters of formula (E4-1)

R

1

CO-(OCH

2

CHR

2

),OR

3 (E4-1) - in which R'CO stands for a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 stands for hydrogen or methyl, R 3 stands for linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w stands for numbers from 1 to 20, 64 H 07112 - amine oxides, - hydroxy mixed ethers such as those described in Unexamined German Patent Application DE-OS 19738866, for example, - sorbitan fatty acid esters and additional products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, e.g. the polysorbates, - sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sugar fatty acid esters, - addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty alkanolamides and fatty amines, - sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-11) R4 0-[G]p (E4-ll) in which R 4 stands for an alkyl or alkenyl radical with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G stands for a sugar radical with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p stands for numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides may be derived from aldoses and/or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-1I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. Whereas p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and may assume the values p =1 to 6 here in particular, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined, calculated variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From a technical standpoint pertaining to applications, such alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl and/or alkenyl radical R 4 may be derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 11 carbon 65 H 07112 atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, hexanol, 1-octanol, decanol and undecyl alcohol as well as their technical grade mixtures such as those obtained by hydrogenation of technical-grade fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides with a chain length of C-C1o (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as the first runnings in distillative separation of technical-grade C-C1e coco fatty alcohol and may be contaminated with an amount of less than 6 wt% C12 alcohol as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical-grade C9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred. The alkyl and/or alkenyl radical R 15 may also be derived from primary alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical grade mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C1/14 coco alcohol with a DP 1 to 3 are preferred. - sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of formula (E4-111)

R

6

R

5 CO-N-[Z] (E4-111) in which R 5 CO stands for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 stands for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] stands for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. The fatty acid N-alkyl-polyhydroxyalkylam ides are preferably derived from reducing sugars 66 H 07112 with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred N alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides such as those represented by the formula (E4-IV)

R

7 CO-NRe-CH 2

-(CHOH)

4

CH

2 OH (E4-IV) The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides for use here are glucamides of formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 stands for hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO stands for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid and/or technical-grade mixtures of these acids. Especially preferred are the fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of formula (E4-IV), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C1214 coco fatty acid and/or a corresponding derivative. In addition, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose. [0243] Preferred nonionic surfactants have proven to be the alkylene oxide addition products onto saturated honey or fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide per mol fatty alcohol and/or fatty acid. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as the nonionic surfactants fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol. [0244] These compounds are characterized by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be linear as well as branched. Primary linear aliphatic radicals with methyl branching in position 2 are preferred. Such alkyl radicals include, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1 lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Especially preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called oxo alcohols as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain are predominant. [0245] In addition, sugar surfactants may also be present as nonionic surfactants. They are preferably present in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt%, based on 67 H 07112 the respective total composition. Amounts of 0.5 to 15 wt% are especially preferred, and amounts of 0.5 to 7.5 wt% are most especially preferred. [0246] The compounds with alkyl groups that are used as the surfactant may be uniform substances, but it is usually preferable to start with native plant or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, which thus yield substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths, depending on the respective raw material. [0247] With the surfactants which may be addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow range homolog distribution may be used. A "normal" homolog distribution is understood to refer to mixtures of homologs that are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using as catalysts the alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. However, narrow range homolog distributions are obtained when using, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow range homolog distribution may be preferred. [0248] The other surfactants are usually used in amounts of 0.1 to 45 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 30 wt% and most especially preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt%, based on the respective total composition. [0249] The aerosol mousses may also contain at least one emulsifier. Emulsifiers act at the phase boundary to form water-stable and/or oil-stable adsorption layers which protect the dispersed droplets from coalescing and thereby stabilize the emulsion. Therefore, emulsifiers such as surfactants are constructed from a hydrophobic molecule part and a hydrophilic molecule part. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferentially form O/W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferentially form W/O emulsions. The choice of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective external phase as well as the finely divided property of the emulsion. Emulsifiers usable according to the invention include, for example: 68 H 07112 - addition products of 4 to 100 mol ethylene oxide and/or 1 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, - C 12

-C

22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular onto glycerol, - ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products onto methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, - C 8

-C

22 alkylmono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, preferred degrees of oligomerization being 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0 and glucose being the preferred the sugar component, - mixtures of alkyl oligoglucosides and fatty alcohols, e.g. the commercially available product Montanov* 68, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hardened castor oil, - partial esters of polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - sterols. Sterols are understood to be a group of steroids having a hydroxyl group on carbon 3 of the steroid structure, which are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as from plant fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols include cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols include ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols are also isolated from yeasts and fungi, i.e. the so-called mycosterols. - phospholipids. These are understood to include especially the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, e.g. as lecithins and/or phosphatidyl cholines from egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans). - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls* PGPH), - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts. 69 H 07112 [0250] The emulsifiers are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt%, based on the respective total composition. [0251] Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 to 18 according to the definitions given in Rdmpp - Lexikon der Chemie [R6mpp's Lexicon of Chemistry] (eds. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 1 0 1h edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York (1997), page 1764 are preferred. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 16 are especially preferred according to the invention. [0252] A third subject of the invention is the use of the inventive agents for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers. [0253] The inventive agents and products containing these agents in particular aerosol styling mousses are characterized in particular in that they impart a very strong and humidity-resistant styling hold to hair treated with them. [0254] The hold of the shape, also known as styling hold, as well as flexibility, elasticity and plasticity are determined in the sense of the present invention according to the omega loop method. [0255] To do so, a dry strand of hair (natural European hair from the company Kerling, Klebetresse dense, glued at one end, total length 150 mm, free length 130 mm, width 10 mm, weight 0.9 ± 0.1 g) is immersed for 30 seconds up to the lower edge of the adhesive in the polymer solution to be tested. Then excess solution is stripped off between the thumb and index finger, so that 0.5 ± 0.02 g of the solution remains on the hair. The strand of hair saturated with the solution to be tested is wrapped around a Teflon cylinder with a diameter of 36 mm and the protruding ends are secured with a clip. The prepared strands are then dried and conditioned overnight in a climatic exposure test cabinet at 25 0 C and 50% relative atmospheric humidity or at 25*C and 75% relative atmospheric humidity. [0256] The conditioned strands are cautiously removed from the Teflon cylinder. The resulting omega loop, a ring-shaped structure of hair stabilized in its shape by the polymer film thus formed, is clamped in the gripper attached to 70 H 07112 the measurement gauge and is lowered to just above the bottom plate of an AMETEK LF Plus Universal Tester from the company AMETEK Precision Instruments Europe GmbH, Lloyd Product Group. The entire measurement is performed in the climatic exposure test cabinet under constant climate conditions at 25 0 C and 50% relative atmospheric humidity or at 25 0 C and 75% relative atmospheric humidity. [0257] To create standardized starting conditions, the measurement begins with startup of a preload of 0.07N at a rate of 30 mm-min~ 1 . Then the omega loop is compressed by 8 mm at a rate of 60 mm-min- 1 , and the force required to do so is measured. After the characteristic force F, at the maximum deformation of 8 mm has been recorded, the strand is released at the rate of 60 mm-min- 1 so that it is lifted 10 mm up from the bottom plate. From here on out, the next cycle begins by starting up the preload of 0.07N and then compressing the strand by 8 mm using the same rates as described above. The measurement of an omega loop comprises a total of 10 cycles. [0258] With this measurement method, four characteristic parameters for describing the mechanical properties of film-forming polymers can be determined. Hold, flexibility, plasticity and elasticity can be calculated from the measured forces by using the following equations: Hold = F 1 [N]

(F

1 corresponds to the maximum force of the measurement) Flexibility = F10/F1 (indicates the ratio of the maximum forces of the tenth cycle to the first cycle) Plasticity =2.i -H 10 14 (where H, = 9 mm and H 10 = 9 mm + permanent plastic deformation of the strands) 71 H 07112 F, (2mm) - F, (1,5mm) Elasticity = 0,5 E M F (2mim) - F (1,5mm) 0,5 (for calculating the elasticity, the forces for deformation by 1.5 mm and 2 mm are detected from the first and tenth cycles and the ratio of them is formed). [0259] The humidity resistance is determined according to the known curl retention method. [0260] The following examples should illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way. [0261] Examples: The following quantitative data are given in weight percent unless otherwise indicated. 1. Aerosol styling mousses The inventive agents El to E3 are prepared according to the following table. Raw materials El E2 E3 Sodium benzoate 0.33 0.33 0.33 Genamin CTAC 1.10 1.10 1.10 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2 0.88 0.88 0.88 Perfume 0.11 0.11 0.11 MP-Ultra PC 10003 0.51 0.39 0.26 Allianz LT-120 4 7.10 5.30 3.55 Luviquat Supreme 5 8.30 12.50 16.70 Water, desalinated to 100 to 100 to 100 1 Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (approximately 28-30% active ingredient in water; INCI name: cetrimonium chloride) (Clariant) 2 Hydrogenated castor oil with approximately 40-45 EO units (INCI name: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) (BASF) 3 2-Amino-2-methylpropanol (INCI name: aminomethyl propanol) (Dow Chemical) 4 Copolymer of succinic acid C 1

-C

2 alkyl esters, hydroxyalkyl acrylate and at least one monomer of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters 72 H 07112 (approximately 46-47.5% solids in water, INCO designation: acrylates/C 2 succinates/hydroxy acrylates copolymer) (ISP) 5 Vinylpyrrolidone-methacrylamide-vinylimidazole-vinylimidazolium methosulfate co polymer (55:29:10:6) (19-21% solids in water; INCI name: polyquaternium-68) (BASF) [0262] These agents were each poured into a suitable pressure-resistant container to prepare the aerosol styling mousses, and then the container was sealed with a valve. The agents were next mixed with a propellant mixture of propane and n-butane in a molar ratio of 1:1. The weight ratio of agent to propellant mixture was 92:8. 2. Proof of effect [0263] Using the omega loop method (50% or 75% relative atmospheric humidity, 250C), the hold which can be achieved by applying various polymer solutions to human hair was determined. The humidity resistance was determined by means of the known curl retention test at 250C and 90% relative atmospheric humidity. First, polymer solutions P1 and P2 were tested, and then a mixture of solutions P1 and P2 in a weight ratio of 1:1 was tested as polymer solution P3. The tested polymer solutions P1, P2 and P3 each contained 5 wt% polymer. Raw materials P1 P2 AMP-Ultra PC 1000 3 0.80 Allianz LT-1204 10.60 Luviquat Supreme 5 - 25.00 Water, desalinated 40 to 100 Ethanol 96% denatured to 100 [0264] The results thus obtained and the values expected theoretically for polymer solution P3 (P3 (theory)) are given in the following table: P1 P2 P3 P3 (theory) Hold (cN) (50% relative 195 271 229 233 atmospheric humidity) Hold (cN) (75% relative 162 211 231 186.5 atmospheric humidity) Curl retention (%) (after 5 60 25 64 42.5 hours; 90% relative atmospheric humidity) 73 H 07112 [0265] A comparison of the theoretical values calculated for polymer solution P3 with the measurement results shows clearly that the combination of copolymer A and copolymer B leads to a synergistic increase in hold at a high atmospheric humidity. The same thing also applies to the humidity resistance according to the curl retention test. [0266] A test of the inventive agents El, E2 and E3 shows that high degrees of hold and good values for flexibility, elasticity and plasticity are also obtained in the presence of other conventional ingredients for styling agents. The results of corresponding measurements by means of the omega loop method are summarized in the following table: El E2 E3 Hold (cN) (50% relative 209 200 188 atmospheric humidity) Flexibility (%) (50% relative 76 84 89 atmospheric humidity) Elasticity (%) (50% relative 48 50 67 atmospheric humidity) Plasticity (%) (50% relative 20 19 16 atmospheric humidity) 74

Claims (19)

1. An agent for temporarily shaping keratinic fibers, containing in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle a) at least one copolymer A formed from - at least one monomer Al, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl esters and methacrylic acid alkyl esters, - at least one monomer A2, selected from acrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and methacrylic acid hydroxyalkyl esters and - at least one monomer A3, selected from succinic acid monoalkyl esters and succinic acid dialkyl esters and b) at least one copolymer B formed from - at least one monomer B1, selected from acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-alkylacrylamide and N-alkylmethacryl amide, - at least one monomer B2, selected from N-vinyllactams, - at least one monomer B3, selected from quaternized N-vinylimidazoles and - the monomer N-vinylimidazole.

2. The agent according to Claim 1, wherein monomer Al is selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester and methacrylic acid isopropyl ester.

3. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 2, wherein monomer A2 is selected from hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 3-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 3-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. 75 H 07112

4. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein monomer A3 is selected from methyl hydrogen succinate, methyl succinate, ethyl hydrogen succinate, ethyl succinate, propyl hydrogen succinate, propyl succinate, isopropyl hydrogen succinate and isopropyl succinate.

5. The agent according to Claim 4, wherein monomer A3 is selected from methyl succinate and ethyl succinate.

6. The agent according to Claim 1, wherein copolymer A is formed from - at least one monomer Al, selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester, methacrylic acid methyl ester, acrylic acid ethyl ester, methacrylic acid ethyl ester, acrylic acid propyl ester, methacrylic acid propyl ester, acrylic acid isopropyl ester and methacrylic acid isopropyl ester, - at least one monomer A2, selected from hydroxymethyl acrylate, hydroxymethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxy ethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 3-hydroxypropyl acrylate, 3-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, and - at least one monomer A3, selected from methyl succinate and ethyl succinate.

7. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein it contains copolymer A in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt%, especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on the total hairstyling agent.

8. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein monomer B1 is selected from acrylamide and methacrylamide.

9. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein monomer B2 is selected from N-vinylcaprolactam and N-vinylpyrrolidone.

10. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein monomer B3 is selected from salts of 3-alkyl-1-vinylimidazolium with physiologically tolerable anions. 76 77

11. The agent according to Claim 10, wherein monomer B3 is 3-methyl-i vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate.

12. The agent according to Claim 1, wherein copolymer B is formed from - at least one monomer B1, selected from acrylamide and 5 methacrylamide, - at least one monomer B2, selected from N-vinylcaprolactam and N vinylpyrrolidone, - 3 -methlyl- 1 -vinylimidazolium methyl sulfate and - N-vinylimidazole. 10

13. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein it contains copolymer B in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt%, especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt%, based on the total hairstyling agent.

14. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein it contains copolymer A and copolymer B in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 20:1, preferably 1:10 to 10:1, is especially preferably 1:5 to 5:1.

15. The agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein it also contains at least one silicone oil and/or silicone gum.

16. The agent according to Claim 15, wherein the silicone oil and/or silicone gum is selected from the group comprising cyclic and linear polydialkyl 20 siloxanes, their alkoxylated and/or aminated derivatives, dihydroxy polydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

17. Use of an agent according to any one of Claims I to 16, for temporarily shaping hair.

18. An aerosol styling mousse containing an agent according to any one of 25 Claims 1 to 16, and at least one propellant. 78

19. An agent for temporarily shaping keratin fibers ad defined in Claim 1 or an aerosol styling mousse as defined in Claim 18, which agent or aerosol styling mousse is substantially as herein described with reference to the Examples. Dated 8 June, 2012 5 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Patent Attorneys for the Applicant/Nominated Person SPRUSON & FERGUSON