AU675683B2 - Perfuming composition - Google Patents

Description

Case 4200 Australia MIG/AIB/14.12.93 PERFUMING COMPOSITION Brief Summary of the inventio The instant invention relates to the perfumery and cosmetic industries. In particular, it provides a non-aqueous perfuming composition with deodorant or antiperspirant action, intended for body care 'x,,taining 15 an active deodorant or antiperspirant base and a perfuming base, wherein 'the perfuming base is formed of two perfuming elements having a distinct olfactive character, one of said elements being in liquid form and the other of said elements being in water-soluble microencapsulated form.

This invention further relates to a method for suppressing body malodors, which comprises treating the skin of the human body through topical application of a perfuming composition as mentioned above.

Background of the invention US patent 4,803,195, belonging to the same applicant as the present application, describes a perfuming composition whose first advantage resides in the fact that it makes it possible to control the activation and diffusion of the perfume in time. The contents of the cited patent are hereby included by reference, This patent indicates how, thanks to the particular choice of the ingredients present in the composition, namely of the filmforming substrates and of the emulsifiers, it is possible to achieve reversible "reencapsulation" of the active deodorant ingredients, such that several successive activations can take place on the skin, without any need for further applications by the user. Thus, reencapsulation takes place in situ during the drying of the skin which follows a perspiration period.

European patent application EP 384 034-A2 describes a similar composition wherein, however, it was indicated that the use of polyvinylpyrrolidone as the film-forming component made it possible to obtain perfectly transparent alcoholic compositions, particularly useful in applications such as sticks and roll-ons, for which it was also desired to fulfill esthetical requirements. The contents of the cited application are also hereby included by reference.

Irrespective of the efficiency of these prior art compositions, they only allow the use of a perfume at a time, which is moreover the current practice in individual perfuming.

However, this practice meets with an inconvenient. The diffusion of the volatile emanations of a perfume, during a more or less prolonged amount of time, generally engenders a phenomenon of adaptation and olfactive saturation, causing on the observer a marked desensitisation towards the currently used perfuming agents.

The Invention The present invention is based on the observation that sequential and automatic renewal of the nature of the active perfuming agents, as perceived by the user or by the observer, could efficiently avoid olfactive desensitisation.

15 Thus the invention provides a non-aqueous perfuming composition with deodorant or antiperspirant action, intended for body care, containing an active deodorant or antiperspirant base and a perfuming base, wherein the perfuming base is formed of two perfuming elements having a distinct olfactive character, one of said elements being in liquid form and the other of said elements being in water-soluble microencapsulated form, S 20 the odour character of said perfuming element in microencapsulated form being i: sufficiently distinct from the odour character of the liquid perfuming element to generate upon an observer, prior exposed to the fragrance of the liquid perfuming element, an odour impulse of different nature when the microencapsulated perfuming element is solubilized, and thereby reactivate the observer's olfactive response.

25 Also provided is a non-aqueous perfuming composition with deodorant or aptiperspirant action, intended for body care, containing an active deodorant or antiperspirant base and a perfuming base, wherein the perfuming base is formed of two perfuming elements having a distinct olfactive character, one of said elements being in liquid form and the other of said elements being in water-soluble microencapsulated form, wherein the composition has a first perceptible odour upon formulation, and a second perceptible odour of a different nature than the first odour after the microencapsulated perfuming element is solubilized.

It is in practice a simple system which does not require application of special equipment for its use. Any conventional system of current use in cosmetics, and namely for applying deodorisers or antiperspirants, is convenient for application of the invention's composition. To this end, one can mention creams, sticks, roll-ons, smoothons, aerosols or yet powders.

[N:,libaaj00459:JVR 3 vegetable gums, pectins, xanthanes, alginates, carragenans or yet cellulose derivatives such as for example carboxymethyl cellulose, methylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose, in combination with an emulsifying agent and a perfuming composition, there cn be obtained perfuming compositions that, after microencapsulation, either separately in a reactor or in situ on the skin, become active through solubilisation once put into contact with a source of humidity, in particular perspiration. Such an activation engenders the release of the fragrant volatiles which had up until then been contained inside the microcapsules, which volatiles either cover or replace those developed by the liquid element, to which the observer had been exposed from the first application of the perfuming composition and therefore developed a certain degree of adaptation.

The observer is thus subjected to a new odor impulse of different nature, which causes reactivation of his olfactive response and has the effect 15 of prolonging the effectiveness of the composition.

The microencapsulated element may be prepared not only in situ on the skin itself of the user, by means of the composition defined in US 4,803,195, but also and mostly according to conventional microencapsulation techniques, which are perfectly well documented in the prior art [see for example: Spray Drying Handbook, 3 r d ed., K. Masters; John Wiley (1979)] and currently applied in the food industry or in the flavor and perfume industry. As a solid carrier, there are used hydrosoluble materials of varied nature, similar to those above-mentioned for the in situ microencapsulation. These are therefore in particular carbohydrates and 25 vegetable gums, whose emulsion with the active perfuming ingredients or essential oils in the presence of an emulsifying agent is treated in current spray drying reactors. The microencapsulation can also be carried out by coacervation, the carrier being in this case formed of gelatine, or by prior polymerisation of urea with formaldehyde.

Like the liquid element of the perfuming base, the active odoriferous agents entrapped, and consequently stabilised, in the matrix of the microcapsules solid support, can be of varied nature. Any known perfuming ingredient can in fact be used according to the invention and the literature offers exhaustive examples of such agents. These are compounds belonging to chemical families which typically include alcohols, esters, aldehydes, ketones or A.:riles, terpenes and natural or reconstituted essential oils [see for example: S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor C'hemicals, Montclair, N.J. (USA) 1969, or P. Bedoukian, Perfumery and Flavoring Synthetics, Elsevier Publ. Co. (1967)].

According to the invention, the two forming elements of the active perfuming base are of distinct olfactive nature and the only combination criterium resides in the hedonic and harmonious effect o developed by them. Thus, an element which develops a fresh, light, cologne or citrus type odor may harmonize well with an element having a heavier odor character, musky, amber-like or woody. As a result, it could be suggested to combine the first of these elements in liquid form with the second in microencapsulated form. The user would then be exposed to a first impression of freshness which would be followed, upon the activation resulting from rupture of the microcapsules during perspiration, or simply from contact with a source of humidity, by the release of heavier notes, such as musky or amber-like for example. On the other hand, it is well-known that a good number of perfuming ingredients are capable of antimicrobial 15 activity. Such ingredients could then be preferably chosen, so that the purely perfuming action might be accompanied by the deodorant action related to their antimicrobial properties. In addition, antiperspirant agents, or even bactericide agents with disinfectant or germicide activity, can also be added, as well as bacteriostatic agents. By way of example, one can cite to this effect hexachlorophene, dichlorophenol, trichlorosalicylanilide (Anobial), tribromosalicylanilide (TBS), tetrachlorosalicylanilide (TCSA) and trichlorocarbanilide (TCC).

Antiperspirant agents include preferably aluminum salts, for example aluminum chlorohydrate. Other antiperspirant bases are described 25 in the specialized literature [see for example: Herbert P, Fiedler, Der Schweiss, Editio Kantor KG, Aulendorf i. Wiirtt, Germany].

As indicated above, the olfactive nature of the two elements forming the active perfuming base can be freely chosen. As a further example, one can also envisage the use according to the invention of a perfuming base formed of a liquid element with a floral, fern or chypre character, combined with a microencapsulated element developing a fresh character of the orange blossom type, or say minty type.

The man in the art knows by experience that it is impossible to predict all the manners of realizing the invention leading to a precise definition of the perfuming compositions that can thus be created. This applies both to the definition of the ingredients and to the determination of their relative proportions. Consequently, the examples provided further on are given purely for the sake of illustration of particular embodiments and *w should not be interpreted in a restrictive manner.

According to a particular embodiment, the perfuming composition of the invention is characterized in that the two perfuming elements contain equivalent global ponderal amounts of active odoriferous ingredients. Thus, for example, concentrations of the order of 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of each of these two elements can be used in current applications intended for perfuming antiperspirant sprays or sticks. These are of ,course only indicative values, such proportions varying as a function of the nature of the article that one wants to perfume or of the particular olfactive effect one desires to achieve.

In the preparation of the encapsulated element, the proportion of perfume can vary lo between 1 and 35% of the total solid composition, or even more, depending on the support materials used.

The following example illustrates the invention in a more detailed but not limitative manner.

Example 1 15 Microencapsulated compositions and for use in body antiperspirants was prepared by means of the following ingredients (parts by weight): ag* so.* 0 00* 0 0 J0* 0 S 000 0 0 000 00..

0 090990 0 *000 9 0 Composition (a) Composition (b) Origin 4 4- I WATER GLUCIDEX 21 (Maltodextrine DE 20-35)

NADEX

(Maltodextrine DE 9-12) SODIUM ALGINATE

CAPSUL

(modified corn starch) II TWEEN 20 (POE sorbitanmonolaurate) 49.0 36.0 4.0 0.8 0.2

ROQUETTES

FRERES

GRAIN

PROCESSING CORP.

NATIONAL

STARCH

ICI

P-'KrUME (SURF 635.040 E) 10.0 10.0 FIRMENICH 100.00 100.00 After prior separate mixing, the two parts I and II were mixed together, part II having been added to part I, and the whole was homogenized by means of a Silverson type fast stirrer.

F

[N:\libaa]00459:JVR The mixture was then spray dried in a CCM Sulzer apparatus with an emulsion output of 50 Kg/h, drying air 320m 3 /h at 350 0 C and 0.45 bar.

There was thus obtained a fine powder, the diameter of the particles being comprised between 20 and 80 Vm and the content in perfume being 20% by weight.

These compositions were used in the preparation of the following antiperspirant compositions.

Example 2 Antiperspirant composition for smoomn-ons The composition was prepared by means of the following ingredients (parts by weight): Origin I CETYL ALCOHOL BEESWAX STEARIC ACID FINSOLV TN 10.0 FINETEX (C12-C15 alcohol benzoate) ARLACEL 165 5.4 ICI S* (Glycerylstearate PEG 1000 stearate) II ALUMINIUM HYDROXYCHLORIDE 20.0 in micronised powder TALC III VOLATILE SILICONE OIL 38.1 (Cyclomethicone) IV PERFUME (microencapsulated): (Composition or Composition prepared in Example 1) PERFUME (liquid) FOUGERE 66.450 0.5 FIRMENICH Part I was heated until complete melting at 80 0 C and parts II, III, and IV were added successively to the melt under vigorous stirring.

After cooling to 40-50 0 C, the whole was poured into smooth-on type containers.

Example 3 Antiperspirant composition for sticks An antiperspirant composition for dry sticks was prepared by means of the following ingredients (parts by weight): [N:\libaa]00459:JVR I. I_ Origin I OCTADECANOL ARLP '7L 165 (Gly,. earate PEG 1000 stearate) PEG 1000 II AEROSIL 200 (colloidal SiO 2

TALC

REZAL 36 P (Complex zirconium chiorhydrate) PERFUME (microencapsulated): (Composition or Composition prepared in Example 1.) III DOW CORNING FLUID 345 (Cyclomethicone) IV PERFUME (liquid) FOUGERE 66.450

ICI

DEGUSSA

REHEIS

FIRMENICH

S..

S

S

S

S S

S

*5 S S

S

*59 S 5*55 C S

S

*509

C

S.

S

*5

S

1 100.0 1 Part I was heated to 90'C until complete dissolving of all the ingredients; then, once the heating had been stopped, part 11 was added to the obtained mixture. Parts III and IV were successively added under stirring and the whole was poured into appropriate moulds 5 at Example 4 Suspension for roll-on antiperspirants An antiperspirant composition for roll-ons was prepared by means of the following ingredients (parts by weight): Origin A BENTONE GEL IPM (Isopropyl myristate stearalkonium hiectorite propylene carbonate) DOW CORNING SILICONE FLUID 344 (Cyclomethicone) HOSTAPHAT KL 340 N (Trilaureth 4 phosphate) REZAL 36 GP (Aluminium zirconium tctrachlorohydrcx gly) 16.00 30.? 4.00 20.00 NL IND, DOW CORNING

HOECHST

REHEIS

[N:\1ibaa]00459:IVR 8 HERCULES EHEC (X-high) (Ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose) FINSOLV TN (C12-C15 alcohol benzoate) PERFUME (microencapsulated): (Composition or Composition prepared in Example 1.) PERFUME (liquid) FOUGERE 66.450 1.00 25.00 3.00 0.75

HERCULES

FINETEX

FIRMENICH

.6 o *0 p.

p .o p *0 p 0*pp 0

POP.

OP

S

100.0 The silicone oil, the emulsifier, the liquid perfume and the Bentone gel were mixed by means of a turbine while separately the cellulose was dispersed in the Finsolv until a gel was obtained.

The two mixtures and were mixed together, then the Rezal was added thereto under stirring.

The microencapsulated perfume was finally poured with caution into the obtained mixture.

Example Antiperspirant spray for aerosol I Origin A VOLATILE SILICONE OIL (Cyclomethicone) PERFUME (liquid, VERA 75.308) BENTONE GEL IPM (Quaternium 18 hectorite) PARAFFIN OIL 30-40 cP B AACH (Activated A1-Cl hydrate) C PERFUME (microencapsulated): (Composition or Composition prepared in Example 1.) 50.4 1.8 4.0 33.0 4.8 DOW CORNING

FIRMENICH

NL INDUSTRIES

REHEIS

S 100,0 The ingredients of part A were admixed until obtaining a thick mass, then part B was added thereto. The whole was mixed for a few minutes by means of an Ultra Turrax turbine before carefully adding thereto part C. The obtained suspension was poured into [N:\libaa]00459:JVR 9 aerosol containers to which there was added the propellent. The latter was 90:10 mixture of isobutane and propane (Drivosol 27) used in a proportion of 70% for 30% of suspension.

[N:'dibaa]00459:JVR

Claims (13)

1. Non-aqueous perfuming composition with deodorant or antiperspirant action, intended for body care, containing an active deodorant or antiperspirant base and a perfuming base, wherein the perfuming base is formed of two perfuming elements having a distinct olfactive character, one of said elements being in liquid form and the other of said elements being in water-soluble microencapsulated form, the odour character of said perfuming element in microencapsulated form being sufficiently distinct from the odour character of the liquid perfuming element to generate upon an observer, prior exposed to the fragrance of the liquid perfuming element, an odour impulse of different nature when the microencapsulated perfuming element is solubilized, and thereby reactivate the observer's olfactive response.

2. Perfuming composition according to claim 1, wherein one perfuming element imparts a relatively light odour character, while the other perfuming element provides a heavier odour character. 15 3. Perfuming composition according to claim 2, wherein the perfuming element that provides a heavier odour character is in the microencapsulated form.

4. Perfuming composition according to claim 1, wherein said two perfuming elements contain equivalent global ponderal amounts of active odouriferous ingredients. Perfuming composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein S. 20 the proportion of active ingredients present in each of said perfuming elements is comprised between about 0.1 and 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Perfuming composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein microencapsulation occurs after topical application of the composition. 25 7. Perfuming composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing an antimicrobial base in combination with the active perfuming base.

8. Perfuming composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the odour character of the microencapsulated perfuming element is distinct from the odour character of the liquid perfuming element both initially and after the microencapsulated perfuming element is solubilized.

9. Non-aqueous perfuming composition with deodorant or antiperspirant action, intended for body care, containing an active deodorant or antiperspirant base and a perfuming base, wherein the perfuming base is formed of two perfuming elements having a distinct olfactive character, one of said elements being in liquid form and the other of said elements being in water-soluble microencapsulated form, wherein the composition has a first perceptible odour upon formulation, and a second perceptible odour of a different nature than the first odour after the microencapsulated perfuming element is solubilized. [N:\libaa]00459:JVR Perfuming composition according to claim 9 wherein the first odour is imparted by the odour character of the liquid perfuming element, and the second odour is imparted by the solubilized microencapsulated perfuming element.

11. Perfuming composition according to claim 10 wherein the odour character of the solubilized microencapsulated perfume element is distinct from the odour character of the liquid perfuming element.

12. Deodorant or antiperspirant device or article, intended for body care, containing a perfuming composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

13. Deodorant or antiperspirant device or article according to claim 12, chosen o1 from creams, sticks, roll-ons, smooth-ons, aerosols or powders.

14. A soap or a powder detergent containing a perfuming composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11. A soap or detergent according to claim 14, wherein the microencapsulated perfuming element imparts a relatively light and fresh odour character to the composition and the liquid perfuming element provides a heavier odour character.

16. A method for suppressing body malodours, which comprises treating the skin Sof the human body through topical application of a perfuming composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

17. A method for improving for the sensory impact of a perfumed product which 20 comprises incorporating therein a flagrance effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

18. The method according to claim 17 wherein the composition has a first odour character upon application to the skin and a second, distinct odour character after the microencapsulated perfuming element is solubilized by body fluids. 25 Dated 18 November, 1996 SFirmenich SA Patent Attorneys for the Applicant/Nominated Person SPRUSON FERGUSON [N:\libaa]00459:JVR PERFUMING COMPOSITION Non-aqueous perfuming composition with deodorant or antiperspirant action, intended for body care, containing an active deodorant or antiperspirant base and a perfuming base, wherein the perfuming base is formed of two perfuming elements having a distince olfactive character, one of said elements being in liquid form and the other of said elements being in water-soluble microencapsulated form. The perfuming composition according to the instant invention makes it possible to suppress body malodors through topical application thereof on the human body skin. oe o 6**