FR3088206A1 - KIT FOR MAKING EYEBROWS AND THEIR CONTOUR WITH TWO COMPOSITIONS; TWO-STEP MAKEUP PROCESS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to a kit for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows, comprising: 1) a first anhydrous colored composition (A) “base coat”, comprising in an oily phase: minus a silicone resin; and - at least one silicone polyamide; and - at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and - at least one volatile polar solvent; and - at least one pigment; and 2) a second composition (B) comprising, in an aqueous phase, at least solid particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers in suspension in said aqueous phase.

Description

Eyebrow and contour makeup kit with two compositions; two-step makeup process

The present application relates to the field of make-up of keratin materials in particular of the eyebrows and of the skin around the eyebrows. It relates more particularly to a makeup kit comprising a first base coat composition (A) intended to be applied to said keratin materials comprising, in an oily phase, a silicone resin, a silicone polyamide, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a polar volatile solvent and a pigment and a second top coat composition (B) intended to be applied to the layer formed by the first composition (A) and comprising an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles. The invention also relates to a two-step process for making up said keratin materials, which consists in successively applying said composition (A) and said composition (B).

There are different types of eyebrow makeup products on the market today.

They can be based on either make-up solutions: pencils, powders, hot-poured, ointments, etc. These solutions are effective for drawing and coloring the eyebrow but are not durable and the make-up results change over the course of the day. .

There are also products based on the use of direct dyes but these products, if they dye the keratin fiber durably, do not dye the skin durably, not allowing to draw the eyebrow.

There are also products based on oxidation colors, but these products require mixing at the time of use and can generate an ammonia odor. In addition, this solution is perceived as chemical by users (range of REFECTOCILS® products).

One solution also consists in applying a water-resistant make-up product based on the association of a silicone resin of type MQ with a silicone resin of high molecular weight but the make-up result of this solution lasts at most two days. and does not allow the final result to be projected before fixing it (WUNDERBROW 2 ® product line from Wonder 2).

A final solution consists in applying products containing a self-tanning active agent such as dihydroxyacetone DHA; associated or not with direct dyes but this solution is limited in terms of colonelle supply and the colors are mainly orange (BROW TATTOO® range of products from Maybelline).

We know that the modification of the eyebrow and in particular its coloring can have a strong impact on the perception of the face. Users of eyebrow coloring products are more looking for a surface makeup act with a semi-permanent result rather than a long-lasting oxidation coloring type coloring used in the field of hair coloring. If the result is semi-permanent, namely eliminable after a few washes with a shower gel or a makeup remover, users want to keep control over the final result and in particular to visualize it in advance.

There is a need to find a new semi-permanent make-up method for the eyebrows as well as new suitable compositions which make it possible to obtain lasting make-up of the eyelashes for more than 2 days, which offers a wide range of shades and which makes it possible to project the result. final before fixing it.

The Applicant has discovered during its research that this objective can be achieved with a two-step makeup process consisting in applying successively:

1) on said keratin materials, at least one first layer with a first anhydrous colored composition (A) “base coat”, comprising in an oily phase:

- at least one silicone resin; and

- at least one silicone polyamide; and

- at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and

- at least one volatile polar solvent, and

- at least one pigment; and

2) then on the layer formed by the composition (A), applying at least a second layer of a second composition (B) “top coat” comprising, in an aqueous phase, at least solid particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers suspended in said aqueous phase.

The first step of applying composition (A) “base coat” makes it possible to color the eyebrows and their outline and to allow the consumer to project the final result before fixing.

The second step of applying the composition (B) “top coat” makes it possible to fix the makeup obtained on the eyebrows and their contour and to obtain a semi-permanent makeup of good hold having good resistance to friction, to sebum. , washing with a shower gel and makeup remover for a period of more than 2 days, in particular 3 to 5 days.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

A first object of the present invention is a kit for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows, comprising:

1) a first anhydrous “base-coat” colored composition (A), comprising in an oily phase:

- at least one silicone resin; and

- at least one silicone polyamide; and

- at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and

- at least one volatile polar solvent, and

- at least one pigment; and

2) a second composition (B) comprising, in an aqueous phase, at least solid particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers in suspension in said aqueous phase.

A second object of the present invention is a cosmetic method for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows, comprising:

- at least a first step of applying a first composition (A) as defined above on said keratin materials, and

- at least a second step, successive to said first step, of applying to the layer formed by the composition (A) of at least a second composition (B) as defined above.

Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" means the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “anhydrous composition” designates respectively a composition which contains less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, even less than 0.5% by weight. water relative to its total weight, and in particular a composition free of water.

OIL PHASE

The composition (A) of the invention comprises at least one oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.

By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By "liquid oil" is meant an oil capable of flowing under its own weight, at room temperature (at 20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid fatty substances.

By “hydrocarbon oil” is meant an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising any silicon atom.

By “volatile oil” is meant any oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.13 Pa measured at 25 ° C.

The oily phase preferably represents from 30% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, and advantageously from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

Volatile hydrocarbon oil

The hydrocarbon oil of the dispersion is preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oil in the dispersion is non-polar (therefore formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms).

The volatile hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from:

- Cs-Cw branched alkanes such as Cs-Cw isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Permyls;

linear Cn-Cu alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cu) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cu) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application W02008 / obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application W02008 / 155059 of the company Cognis , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

More particularly, the content of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) varies from 30 to 70% by weight, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

Pigments

As stated above, the composition (A) "base coat" according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.

By "pigments" is meant a pulverulent material, also called particulate material, formed of white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

These pigments are more particularly detailed below.

A composition (A) according to the invention preferably contains from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight of these pigments, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

"Mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigment. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta20s, T13O5, T12O3, TiO, ΖΓΟ2 in admixture with T1O2, ΖΓΟ2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 pm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 pm.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly metal oxides, such as for example iron oxide and titanium dioxide.

As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of nacres.

By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matter.

As an example of nacres, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, there can be mentioned TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® (on mica) nacres marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® nacres marketed by MERCK, PRESTIGE mica nacres ® marketed by ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE® synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

By way of illustration of the nacres which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored nacres, in particular, sold by the company ENGELHARD, under the name of

BRILLANT GOLD 212G® (TIMICA®), GOLD 222C® (CLOISONNE®), SPARKLE GOLD® (TIMICA®), GOLD 4504® (CHROMALITE®) and MONARCH GOLD 233X® (CLOISONNE®); bronze nacres, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name BRONZE® FINE (17384) (COLORONA®) and BRONZE® (17353) (COLORONA®) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (CLOISONNE®); the orange nacres, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name ORANGE 363C® (CLOISONNE®) and ORANGE MCR 101® (COSMICA®) and by the company MERCK under the name PASSION ORANGE® (COLORONA®) and MATTE ORANGE® ( 17449) (MICRONA®); the brown-colored nacres, in particular, sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340XB® (CLOISONNE®) and BROWN CL4509® (CHROMALITE®); copper reflection nacres, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name COPPER 340A® (TIMICA®); the pearls with red reflection, in particular, sold by the company MERCK under the name SIENNA FINE® (17386) (COLORONA®); the yellow-reflection nacres, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (CHROMALITE®); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name SUNSTONE G012® (GEMTONE®); pink nacres, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name TAN OPALE G005® (GEMTONE®); black pearls with gold reflection, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB® (TIMICA®), blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (MICRONA® ), white mother-of-pearl with a silver reflection, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name XIRONA SILVER® and the pinkish orange-pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name INDIAN SUMMER® (XIRONA®) and their mixtures .

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional tinting effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. Within the meaning of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or even in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular, interference. Of course, these different materials can be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a new effect in accordance with the invention.

The particles with a metallic reflection which can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

- particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

- the particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one layer with metallic reflection comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and the mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals which may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te , Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term “metallic derivatives” denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

Mention may also be made of metallic copper powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844® marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® from the company ECKART, the aluminum particles coated with silica marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER® from the company ECKART and the particles of metal alloy, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed denomination of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart.

It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS® under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

The goniochromatic coloring agent can be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures which can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / AI, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / AI / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / AI / SiO ₂ / MoS2; Fe ₂ O3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe ₂ O3, and

Fe2O ₃ / SiO2 / Fe2O ₃ / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL® by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O ₃ / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O ₃ ; TiO2 / SiO ₂ / TiO2 and TiO2 / AI ₂ O ₃ / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO ₂ / SnO; Fe2O ₃ / SiO2 / Fe2O ₃ ; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments can be pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by the company MERCK, pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS® pigments from the company SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the structure Fe2O3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe2O3 we go from golden-green to gray-red for S1O2 layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for S1O2 layers from 380 to 400 nm; from purple to green for layers of SiO 2 from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for S1O2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

By way of example, pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure may be cited, those sold by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

As goniochromatic particles with liquid crystals, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as that sold under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER.

Preferably, the composition (A) of the invention comprises at least one pigment as defined above, coated with at least one hydrophobic surfactant as defined below.

HYDROPHOBIC SURFACE AGENT

A surfactant within the meaning of the invention is a molecule capable of interacting with the surface of the pigment by weak interaction, such as an adsorption, or by strong interaction, such as a chemical reaction.

The term “hydrophobic surfactant” means any lipophilic or hydrophobic compound which has interacted, or interacts, with the surface of the pigment (s).

By "lipophilic compound" is meant by any compound soluble or dispersible in an oily phase.

By "hydrophobic compound" is meant by any compound insoluble in water.

Without wishing to be linked to a particular theory, the presence of a hydrophobic surfactant in the composition makes it possible to better disperse and stabilize the pigment (s) within the oily phase of the composition.

A pigment coated with a hydrophobic surfactant is particularly advantageous insofar as it manifests a preponderant affinity for the oily phase of the composition which can then transport it.

Within the meaning of the invention, "a coated pigment" according to the invention generally designates a pigment treated on the surface, totally or partially, with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted on said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanical-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to a variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

A composition (A) according to the invention preferably contains from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight of all of the pigments and of the coating agent, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Patent 4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment can consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, in dispersing the pigments in this mixture, then in slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactant of the composition of the invention is chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebaçate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactant of the composition of the invention is chosen from silicone surfactants, in particular alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes, in particular triethoxycaprylylsilane; N-acylated amino acids or their salts, in particular stearoyl glutamate; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and their mixtures.

Silicone surfactant

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic surfactant is a silicone compound.

The silicone surfactants can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives and their mixtures.

By “organopolysiloxane compound” is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to silicon atoms.

i) Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

Mention may in particular be made, as non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group can be represented by the radical RO - such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method of surface treatment of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent, then in adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant can be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

ii) Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Alkane-functional silanes are in particular described by Witucki in “A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993”.

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137® (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

Mention may also be made of triethoxycaprylylsilane sold under the reference Unipure AS-EM® (SENSIENT).

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in application JP H07196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments.

Fluorinated surfactant

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic surfactant is a fluorinated compound.

The fluorinated surfactants can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyeth groups.

The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" means an alkyl radical in which all of the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN® by the company MONTEFLUOS.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference ASAHI GUARD AG530® can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organo-perfluorocarbon compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecaline sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP®" by the company RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecaline), perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro ( butylcyclohexane).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes there may be mentioned the derivatives of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, the derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and the perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluorenethane.

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated naphthalene derivatives such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphththalene.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, there may be mentioned:

yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei;

red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei;

black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100 by the company Daito Kasei;

titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei;

yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki;

DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC by the company Cardre Inc.;

DC Red 6 / PTFE® sold under the reference T 9506® by the company Warner-Jenkinson.

Fluorosilicone surfactant

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic surfactant is a fluoro-silicone compound.

The fluoro-silicone compound can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialcoxysilanes.

As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of the products LP-IT and LP-4T marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones can be represented by the following formula:

CH, CH,

Γr

CH, —Si —O - SiO | I ch ₃ ch

in which :

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

m is chosen between 0 to 150, preferably between 20 to 100; and n is chosen between 1 to 300, preferably between 1 to 100.

By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other hydrophobic surfactants

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic surfactant can also be chosen from:

i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

Mention may in particular be made, as metallic soaps, of metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal of the metallic soap can in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof can be used.

ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid;

iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group;

The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative can in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example stearoyl glutamate d 'aluminum.

As examples of pigments coated according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

iv) lecithin and its derivatives;

v) isostyl thisostearyl titanate;

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium tri isostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWBO-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

vi) natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

and their mixtures.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above can be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

A polar wax is in particular made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

By way of nonlimiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made in particular of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with a silicone surfactant, in particular an alkoxysilane such as triethoxycaprylylsilane.

According to another preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a derivative of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, such as a stearoyl. glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

According to another preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

Of course, the compositions according to the invention may in parallel contain pigments which are not coated with a hydrophobic compound.

These other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

These pigments can be in particular mineral pigments as defined above.

These pigments can also be organic pigments.

According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a pigment chosen from metal oxides, in particular iron oxides, and more particularly metal oxides coated with a hydrophobic agent, even more particularly iron oxides coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate ( ITT), such as those sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

SILICONE RESIN

The composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.

More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. The “silicone resins” are also called “silicone resins” or “siloxane resins”. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

The nomenclature of silicone resins (also called siloxane resins or silicone resins) is known under the name of MDTQ, the resin being described according to the different monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit .

The letter "M" represents the Monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3S1O1 / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter "D" means a Difunctional unit R1R2S1O2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms

The letter "T" represents a Thfunctional unit of formula RiSiO3 / 2.

Such resins are described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Enginnering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302, 685 and US 4,935,484.

In the units M, D, T defined above, R, namely Ri, R2 and R3, represents a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a group hydroxyl.

Finally, the letter "Q" signifies a tetrafunctional unit S1O4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to four oxygen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain , the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.

As silicone resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type.

MQ resins:

By way of example of silicone resins of MQ type, mention may be made of alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(Ri) 3SiOi / 2] x (SiO4 / 2) _y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R 1 represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.

As an example of MQ silicone resins of the Trimethylsiloxysilicate type, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312J® by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by Dow Coming.

As silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of phenylalkylesiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151® sold by the company General Electric). The preparation of such resins is described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,817,302.

T resins:

By way of example of silicone resins of type T, there may be mentioned the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiOs / 2) x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes possibly also comprising Si-OH end groups.

Preferably, polymethylsilsesquioxane resins in which R represents a methyl group can be used, such as, for example, those sold:

- by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating units CHsSîOsæ (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH3) 2SiO2 / 2 (units D) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000 g / mol, or

- by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CHsSîOsæ and have terminal groups Si-OH (silanol), under the reference KR-242A® which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl D units and have end groups Si-OH or also under the reference KR-251® comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have end groups Si-OH.

MQT resins:

By way of resin comprising MQT patterns, those cited in document US 5 110 890 are known in particular.

A preferred form of MQT-type resins are MQT-propyl resins (also called MQTPr). Such resins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in application WO 2005/075542, the content of which is incorporated here by reference.

The MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units:

(i) (R1 ₃ SiOi / ₂ ) a (ii) (R2 ₂ SiO2 / 2) b (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and (ÎV) (SiO4 / 2) d with

R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or alternatively a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, a, b, c and d being molar fractions, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0 , 05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = 1, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the units:

(i) (R1 ₃ SiOi / ₂ ) a (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and (ÎV) (SiO4 / 2) d with R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 being preferably a methyl group and R3 is preferably a propyl group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or even between 0.2 and 0.55, a + b + c + d = 1, and a , b, c and d being molar fractions, provided that more than 40 mol% of the groups R3 of the siloxane resin are propyl groups.

The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of:

A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (Rl3SiOi / 2) a and (SlO4 / 2) d

R1 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and of

B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiO3 / 2) c,

R3 representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups, where the A / B mass ratio is between 95: 5 and 15:85, preferably the A / B mass ratio is 30:70.

Advantageously, the A / B mass ratio is between 95: 5 and 15:85. Preferably, the A / B ratio is less than or equal to 70:30. These preferred ratios have been found to provide comfortable deposits.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as silicone resin, at least one resin of MQ type, more particularly of Trimethylsiloxysilicate type, such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, under the name KF-7312J® by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 749®, DC 593® by the company Dow Coming.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicone resin is present in the composition (A) in a dry matter content of the resin ranging from 8 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10 to 35% by weight and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A).

POLYAMIDE SILICONE

The first composition (A) of the makeup kit according to the invention comprises at least one silicone polyamide.

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By polymer is meant in the sense of the invention a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units.

The silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention can be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for example those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 . According to the invention, the silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:

(1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or (2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

A) According to a first variant, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose units capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged in the polymer chain.

The silicone polymers can more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to general formula I:

R ⁴ R ⁵

G '

SiO (I)

LR ⁶ R ⁷ in which: G 'represents C (O) when G represents -C (O) -NH-Y-NH-, and G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C (O) -YC ( O) R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , identical or different, represent a group chosen from: hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic, C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or several oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms, the C 1 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, the X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,

Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or carry as a substitute for one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3 to C5 cycloalkyl, C1 to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted thereby 3 C1 to C3 alkyl groups, hydroxyalkyl C1 to C3 and amino C1 to C6 alkyl, or

Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

R ⁸ _____T in which

T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which can contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a chosen trivalent atom among N, P and Al, and

R ⁸ represents a linear or branched C1 to C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200. So preferred, m is an integer ranging from 50 to 150.

According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another mode, 80% of the R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , of the polymer are methyl groups.

According to the invention, Y can represent various divalent groups, optionally also comprising one or two free valences to establish connections with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from:

linear C1 to C20 alkylene groups, preferably C1 to C10, branched alkylene groups which may contain unconjugated rings and unsaturations, in C30 to C56, Cs-Ce cycloalkylene groups, phenylene groups optionally substituted with a or several C1 to C40 alkyl groups, the C1 to C20 alkylene groups, comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups, the C1 to C20 alkylene groups, comprising one or more substituents, chosen from hydroxyl, C3 to Cs cycloalkane groups , C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to Ce alkylamines, the polyorganosiloxane chains of formula:

R ⁵

Yes.

R ⁷ o

Yes.

OR

R ⁵

Yes.

R ⁷

O

Yes.

wherein R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , T and m are as defined above.

According to the second variant, the polyorganosiloxanes can be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):

^m i ^m 2 (II) in which

R ⁴ and R ⁶ , identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I),

R ¹⁰ represents a group as defined above for R ⁴ and R ⁶ , or represents the group of formula -XGR ¹² in which X and G are as defined above for formula (I) and R ¹² represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 5 optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more C1 to C4 alkyl groups,

R ¹¹ represents the group of formula -XGR ¹² in which X, G and R ¹² are as defined above, rm is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

According to the invention, the silicone polymer used as structuring agent can be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II).

According to the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone polymer constituted by a copolymer comprising several units of formula (I) different, that is to say a polymer in which at least one of R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , X, G, Y, m and n is different in one of the patterns. The copolymer can also be formed from several units of formula (II), in which at least one of R ⁴ , R ⁶ , R ¹⁰ , R ¹¹ , rm and m2 is different in at least one of the units.

It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) possibly being identical or different from each other. other.

According to a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer further comprising at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from the ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane groups, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof.

These copolymers can be block polymers, block polymers or graft polymers.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formula C (O) NH-and -HN-C (O) -.

In this case, the structuring agent may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

FR

R ⁵ or

SiO

R ⁶

FR

SiO

R ⁶

Yes

R ⁵

C - NH

NH-Si X NH C

R ⁷ m

(IV) in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , X, Y, m and n are as defined above.

In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and in particular from 50 to 200 and n ranges from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25; and

X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 carbon atoms, and

Y is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations, having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms , in particular of 6 carbon atoms.

In formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:

with 5 amide, urea, urethane, or carbamate groups, a Cs or Ce cycloalkyl group, and a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

In formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups can also be substituted by at least one element chosen from the group consisting of:

hydroxy group, C5 to C5 cycloalkyl group, to three C1 to C40 alkyl groups, phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three C1 to alkyl groups one to one C3 to, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl group, and one aminoalkyl group Ci to Ce.

In these formulas (III) and (IV), Y can also represent:

R ⁸ where R ⁸ represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula:

R ¹³ , (CH ₂ ) _a ----- C ----- (CH ₂ ) _b or (CH ₂ ) _a ----- N (CH ₂ ) _b - (CH ₂ ) _c (CH ₂ ) _c in which a, b and c are independently whole numbers ranging from 1 to 10, and R ¹³ is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷

In formulas (III) and (IV), R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n- group. CsH? or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) and / or (IV).

As we have seen previously, the polymer can comprise units of formula (III) or (IV) which are identical or different.

Thus, the polymer can be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, or a polyamide corresponding to formula (V):

in which X, Y, n, R ⁴ to R ⁷ have the meanings given above, mi and m2 which are different, are chosen from the range going from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer going from 2 to 300 .

In this formula, the units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units can be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Y's. In this case, the polymer can correspond to formula VI:

in which R ⁴ to R ⁷ , X, Y, mi, m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Y ¹ is different from Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y.

As before, the different units can be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the invention, the structuring agent may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked by silicone chains with amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

In this case, the polymer can comprise at least one unit of formula (VII):

(VII) in which X ¹ and X ² which are identical or different, have the meaning given for X in formula (I), n is as defined in formula (I), Y and T are as defined in formula (I), R ¹⁴ to R ²¹ are groups chosen from the same group as R ⁴ to R ⁷ , rm and m2 are numbers in the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

In formula (VII), it is preferred that:

p is from 1 to 25, better still from 1 to 7,

R ¹⁴ to R ²¹ are methyl groups,

T has one of the following formulas:

²² __R ²³ _____C_____R ² _i___R ²³ _____N _____R ²⁴ _____; _____R ²³ _____P_____ _R ² 4_____

R ²⁵ R ²⁵ R ²⁵

R ²³ _____Al _____R ²⁴

R ²⁵ in which R ²² is a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from the groups defined for R ⁴ to R ⁷ , and R ²³ , R ²⁴ and R ²⁵ are independently alkylene groups, linear or branched, more preferably, to the formula:

R ²³ _____N _____R ²⁴

R ²⁵ in particular with R ²³ , R ²⁴ and R ²⁵ representing -CH2-CH2-, mi and m2 range from 15 to 500, and better still from 15 to 45,

X ¹ and X ² represent - (CH2) io-, and

Y represents -CH2-.

These polyamides with a grafted silicone unit of formula (VII) can be copolymerized with polyamide-silicones of formula (II) to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. The percentage by weight of grafted silicone units (VII) in the copolymer can range from 0.5 to 30% by weight.

According to the invention, as has been seen previously, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units can be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units can appear individually or in segments.

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon polyamide, ie a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and polyamide hydrocarbon units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units can be arranged at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III.

RR ⁴ Ί R ⁵ (ni) in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a C1 to C40 alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-CsH group? or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups, and m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and in particular from 50 to 200 and n ranges from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the groups R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent methyl groups, one of X and Y represents an alkylene group of 6 carbon atoms and the other an alkylene groups group of 11 carbon atoms, n representing the degree of polymerization (DP) of the polymer.

By way of example of such silicone polyamides, mention may be made of the compounds marketed by the company Dow Coming under the name DC 2-8179 GELLANT® (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 GELLANT® (DP 15) whose name INCI is "NYLON611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER".

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of general formula (I) having an index m of value approximately 100.

The index "m" corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone part of the polymer.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) where m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.

More preferably, R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-CsH? or isopropyl in formula (III).

As an example of a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US-A5,981,680.

According to a preferred embodiment, a polyamide silicone polymer with the name INCI: NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 GELLANT® (DP 100) is used.

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in application WO 2003/106614 published on 12/24/2003, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.

As before, such a polymer can comprise polyorganosiloxane units containing two or more urethane and / or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or as pendant groups.

The polymers and / or copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45 to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130 ° C and better still from 80 to 105 ° C.

The content of silicone polyamide, expressed as active material, preferably varies from 8 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, more particularly from 12 to 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. (AT).

POLAR VOLATILE SOLVENTS

A composition (A) according to the invention also comprises at least one polar volatile solvent.

By “polar volatile solvent”, is meant in the present invention an organic compound liquid at room temperature (20 ° C) comprising at least one polar group such as a hydroxyl group, ester, ketone, ether, or aldehyde, and having a vapor pressure greater than 1 mbar at 20 ° C.

Among the polar volatile solvents which can be used in the compositions (A) in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned in particular the C2-C5 mono-alcohols preferably chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, butan 2-ol, methylpropan-1-ol, methylpropan-2-ol, more preferably isopropanol.

The polar volatile solvent (s) may be present in the composition (A) at a total content greater than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1.5 to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

POLYMER PARTICLES OF COMPOSITION (B) "TOP-COAT"

The composition (B) according to the invention comprises solid particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition.

Said solid particles of film-forming polymer can either be used as such and are in suspension in the aqueous phase of the composition or in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion (latex or pseudo-latex).

In the present application, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature ranging from 20 ° C. to 150 ° C. .

Such a film-forming polymer present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bear the name of (pseudo) latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more types of particles, these particles being able to vary by their size, by their structure and / or by their chemical nature.

The film-forming polymer may be present in a dry matter content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 6% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

These solid particles can be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and can constitute a mixture of solid particles of different natures.

In the present invention, the term "aqueous" means a liquid medium based on water and / or hydrophilic solvents. This aqueous liquid medium can consist essentially of water. It can also comprise a mixture of water and organic solvent (s) miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones , C2-C4 aldehydes.

Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin and their mixtures. In general, these polymers can be random polymers, block copolymers of type A-B, multi-block AB-A or even ABCD ..., or even grafted polymers.

Radical film-forming polymer

By "radical polymer" is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers of radical type can be in particular homopolymers or copolymers, acrylic and / or vinyl.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, acid maleic, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more particularly (meth) acrylic acid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, more particularly in Ci-Cs, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular Ce-Cw aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The esters of (meth) acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

As amides of the acid monomers, mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide.

Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl tbutyl benzoate.

Mention may be made, as styrene monomers, of styrene of alpha-methyl styrene.

The list of monomers given is not exhaustive and it is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including the monomers modified by a silicone chain).

Mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas , polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called "hybrid polymers".

Polycondensate

As film-forming polymer of polycondensate type, there may be mentioned anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas / polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising alone or as a mixture at least one block chosen from:

an aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester sequence and / or a silicone block, branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or

- a sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro , diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulphonic acid or sulphonate group, or even a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

The polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylgluratic acid , azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are chosen in particular.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

Polymer of natural origin

It is possible to use in the present invention polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, water-insoluble cellulosic polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters, in particular carboxyalkyl cellulose esters such as those described in patent application US 2003/185774, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from dispersions of acrylic polymers, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyesters dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions , dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone terpolymer, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride, polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, dispersions of heart-shell type particles and mixtures thereof.

Detailed below are various types of aqueous dispersions, in particular commercial, suitable for the preparation of the composition according to the present invention.

1 / Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

The acrylic polymer can be a styrene / acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer. As styrenic monomer which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

The C1-C18 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12 alkyl (meth) acrylate and more particularly a C1-C10 alkyl (meth) acrylate. The C1-C18 alkyl (meth) acrylate monomer may be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methacrylate butyl, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate and stearyl (meth) acrylate.

As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use according to the invention:

- the aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by the company BASF, “Neocryl A45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A-1070®”, “Neocryl A-1090 ® ”,“ Neocryl BT-62® ”,“ Neocryl A-1079® ”and“ Neocryl A-523® ”by DSM,“ Joncryl 95® ”,“ Joncryl 8211® ”by BASF,“ Daitosol 5000 AD® ”(INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or“ Daitosol 5000 SJ® ”(INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; "Syntran 5760 CG®" (INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer) by the company Interpolymer.

2 / according to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane particles, in particular anionic.

The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups having a carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid function.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally sold in the form of aqueous dispersions.

The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions which can be used in the aqueous varnishes according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular that sold under the name "Avalure UR 405®" by the company NOVEON.

Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those marketed under the name of “Avalure UR 450®” by the company NOVEON, and under the name of “Néorez R 970®” by DSM.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyesterpolyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles also defined above.

For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name of “Sancure 861®” or a mixture of that marketed under the name of “Avalure UR 405®” and that marketed under the name of “Avalure UR 450 ® ”, these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON.

As solid particles of film-forming polymer according to the invention, it is more preferable to use:

- the aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymer sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by the company BASF, “Neocryl A45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A-1070®”, “Neocryl A-1090 ® ”,“ Neocryl BT-62® ”,“ Neocryl A-1079® ”and“ Neocryl A-523® ”by DSM,“ Joncryl 95® ”,“ Joncryl 8211® ”by BASF,“ Daitosol 5000 AD® ”(INCI name: ACRYLATES COPOLYMER) or“ Daitosol 5000 SJ® ”(INCI name: ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER) by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; "Syntran 5760 CG®" (INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer) by the company Interpolymer,

- the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names "Neorez R-981®" and "Neorez R-974®" by DSM, the "Avalure UR-405®", "Avalure UR-410®", "Avalure UR425 ® ”,“ Avalure UR-450® ”,“ Sancure 875® ”,“ Avalure UR 445® ”,“ Avalure UR 450® ”by the company NOVEON,“ Impranil 85® ”by the company BAYER,

- sulfopolyesters such as those sold under the brand name "Eastman AQ®" by the company Eastman Chemical Products,

- vinyl dispersions such as “Mexomer PAM®”, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as “Vinybran®” from the company Nisshin Chemical or those sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of terpolymer vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and chloride lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium such as "Styleze W ®" -ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those sold under the references "Hybridur ®" by the company AIR PRODUCTS or "Duromer ®" from NATIONAL STARCH,

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition (B) according to the invention an aqueous dispersion of acrylic film-forming polymer.

More particularly, a composition (B) according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming polymer of styrene, of ammonium methacrylate and of a monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters by name. INCI: STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER. By way of example, mention may be made of the commercial product Syntran 5760 CG® "sold by the company Interpolymer, which is a (40% aqueous dispersion of polymer).

AQUEOUS PHASE

Composition (B) according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The term “aqueous phase” is understood to mean a phase comprising water and all the solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.) such as the lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, capryly glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may contain demineralized water, or alternatively floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase is present in a content greater than 60% by weight relative to the total composition, preferably greater than 70% and preferably ranging from 70% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

According to a particular form, the invention relates to a kit for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows, comprising:

1) a first anhydrous composition (A), intended to be applied to said keratin materials and comprising at least, in an oily phase:

- a MQ silicone resin of the Trimethylsiloxysilicate type; and

- a silicone polyamide with INCI name: NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER;

- isopropanol; and

- isododecane, and

- at least one iron oxide, preferably coated with a hydrophobic agent; and

2) a second composition (B), intended to be applied to the layer formed by the first composition (A) on said keratin materials and comprising, in an aqueous phase, at least one aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming polymer of styrene, of ammonium methacrylate and of a monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters of INCI name: STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.

According to a particular form, the invention relates to the cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin, in particular the eyebrow contour, consisting in applying to said keratin materials:

- at least a first step of applying a first composition (A) as defined above on said keratin materials, and

- at least a second step, successive to said first step, of applying to the layer formed by the composition (A) of at least a second composition (B) as defined above.

COMPOSITIONS (A) and (B)

According to a particular form, the compositions (A) and (B) in accordance with the present invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

By physiologically acceptable, it is understood to be compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), liable to divert the consumer from use this composition.

Each of the compositions (A) and (B) can also comprise a cosmetic additive usually used in its anhydrous or aqueous support respectively, in particular chosen from preservatives, bactericidal agents, antioxidant agents, perfumes, fillers, gelling agents and / or structuring oils, waxes, pasty bodies, additional oils, lipophilic active agents, hydrophilic active agents, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, hydrating agents, emollients, surfactants, sunscreens, odor absorbers, and mixtures thereof.

It is routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

Preferably, the base coat composition (A) according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one gelling and / or structuring agent for oils.

This (These) compounds can in particular be chosen from lipophilic gelling agents such as for example hydrophobic modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (BENTONE GEL VS38® from RHEOX), hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (name CTFA : DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) sold in particular under the name "BENTONE 38 CE®" by the company RHEOX or under the name Bentone 38 VCG® by the company ELEMENTIS.

Preferably, the base coat composition (A) according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one wax.

RAINCOATS

By “wax” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C which can range up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and preferably having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to disperse it with oil (s) and to form a homogeneous mixture macroscopically and by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a homogeneous recrystallization of the wax in the oil (s) of the mixture.

The waxes which can be used in the invention can be hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin, preferably hydrocarbon-based. In particular, they have a melting temperature above 40 ° C and better still above 45 ° C, for example ranging from 50 ° C to 110 ° C.

As wax which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetic field: they are in particular of natural origin such as beeswax, Carnauba wax such as in particular that marketed under the name of CERAUBAT1 by the company BAERLOCHER, Candelilla, Ouricoury, Japan, cork or cane fiber, rice, Montan, paraffin waxes such as in particular that marketed under the name AFFINE 56-58 PASTILLES by BAERLOCHER , lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, concrete glycerides at 40 ° C and better at 45 ° C, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly (di) methylsiloxane esters solid at 40 ° C whose ester chain contains at least 10 atoms of carbon; and their mixtures.

A composition (A) according to the invention preferably comprises a content of wax (es) less than or equal to 15% by weight, better than 10% and advantageously less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition (A) according to the invention is free of wax.

According to one embodiment, the top-coat composition (B) can additionally comprise at least one pigment as defined above and chosen from nacres, particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, agents thermochromes, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular, interference, and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the compositions (A) and (B) of the invention are in the form of a product for the eyebrows.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Eyebrow makeup process

An object of the present application is a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin, in particular the contour of the eyebrows, consisting in applying to said keratin materials:

- at least a first step of applying a first composition (A) as defined above on said keratin materials, and

- at least a second step, successive to said first step, of applying to the layer formed by the composition (A) of at least a second composition (B) as defined above.

Between the application of the first layer with the base coat composition (A) and the application of the second layer with the top coat composition (B), the drying time preferably varies from 3 to 20 minutes, more preferably 5 to 15 minutes.

Packaging and applicators

The compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention can each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition (A) or (B), said container being closed by a closing element.

The container can be in any suitable form. It can in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case.

The closure element may be in the form of a removable stopper, a cover, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap articulated to the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a valve.

The container can be associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US patent 4,887,622. It can also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular by molding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator can be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator can be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator can be secured to the container, as described for example in patent FR 2,761,959.

The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is done other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. The term "snap-on" means in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, and then by returning to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

The container can be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastic materials, mention may be made of polypropylene or polyethylene.

The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

The container may include means for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the exit of the composition in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or inelastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .

The container can be equipped with a wringer placed in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wringer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly, the rod of which it can be integral. Such a wringer is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood including limits, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by mass.

EXAMPLE OF MAKEUP KIT

Composition (A) base coat

Phase Ingredient % in weight Phase 1 Titanium oxide coated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate 2 Black iron oxide treated isopropyl titanium triisostearate 1.1 Yellow iron oxide treated isopropyl titanium triisostearate 1.2 Treated isopropyl titanium triisostearate red iron oxide 0.45 Mica 4.96 Isododecane 10 Phase 2 MQ silicone resin 26.25

Trimethylsiloxysilicate, (SR1000® General Electric) NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER (DOW CORNING 2- 8179 GELLANT®) 17.70 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE (BENTONE 38 VCG®- ELEMENTS) 5.00 Isododecane qs 100 Phase 3 Isopropanol 2.50

Preparation protocol

The raw materials were carefully weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g).

Phase 1 was prepared by wetting the pigments and mica with isododecane. This phase 1 was then ground in a three-cylinder.

Mixing of phases 1 and 2

The ingredients for phase 2 and crushed phase 1 were melted in a double-pan pan in which an oil circulates, the temperature of which has been controlled using a thermostatically controlled oil bath. The set temperature has been set at 90 ° C. After complete melting, the mixture was homogenized by a Moritz type foam concentrate. Stirring was continued until a homogeneous preparation was obtained (20 minutes). The mixture was then cooled with stirring.

Addition of phase 3

Phase 3 was introduced into phase 1 +2 when the temperature of the mixture was less than or equal to 40 ° C.

End of formulation

The composition (A) thus obtained was transferred to a closed container to prevent drying in contact with air.

Composition (B) top coat

Ingredients % in weight Aqueous dispersion of STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER copolymer (Intelimer SYNTRAN 5760 CG®) (40% polymer) 20 Ethanol 10 Water 70

The ingredients were introduced into a beaker and stirred for 10 min until homogenized. A composition (B) stable for 2 months at room temperature (25 ° C.) was obtained.

In vitro resistance tests

The process using the application of the base coat (A) followed by the application of the top coat (B) led to significantly improved resistance during the vitro resistance tests compared to the prior art constituted by the application of a commercial semi-permanent eyebrow makeup product Wunder Brow 2®.

List of ingredients for the commercial product Wunder Brow 2®:

Isododecane, Mica, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Propylene Carbonate, Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylysilane, Isohexadecane, O-Cymen-5-OI, Isodecyl Isonyl 66, Nylon-6,

C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica, Polydiethyleneglycol Adipate / lpdi Copolymer, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl Lauryl Dimethicone, Perfluorononyl Dimethicone. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (Cl 77891), Iron Oxides (Cl 77491, Cl 77492, Cl 77499).

Application protocol

The compositions were applied with a plunging applicator, of the brush type, to yak hair (50 mg) bonded with a PROS’AIDE® adhesive on a silicone support of the BIOSKIN® type.

A first layer of 0.07g of the composition (A) was applied using a brush and then after 10 minutes of drying, a second layer of 0.07g of the composition (B) was applied. It was left to dry for 4 hours.

A first coat of 0.07g of Wonder Brow 2® was applied with a brush and after 10 minutes of drying a second coat of 0.07g of Wonder Brow 2® was applied. It was left to dry for 4 hours.

We then carried out a succession of tests on this dry deposit:

Succession of tests:

- mechanical abrasion (5 brush strokes + 5 cotton passages)

- sebum (olive oil - 5 drops - application of 2 minutes - cotton passages) 15 - shower gel (0.2 g of lauryl ether sulfate - 1.5 ml of water - 8 finger rinses with water hot between 37 and 42 ° C 10 seconds)

- care cream (Aquasource cream 0.2 g - 2 minutes application - cotton passages)

- Make-up removal (micellar water 1.5 ml rubbed 5 times)

Notes A, B and C were assessed:

A: No change in deposit compared to its level of application B: White hairs appear (less than 10 hairs appear)

C: More than 10 hairs are removed and the color on Bioskin® starts to go away

Applied product After application After 1 ^st degradation cycle * After 2 ^nd degradation cycle After 3 ^rd degradation cycle After 4 ^th degradation cycle After 5 ^th cycle of degradation After 6 ^th degradation cycle After 7 ^th degradation cycle Wunder Brow 2 (reference) AT AT B vs vs vs vs vs Process according to the invention AT AT AT AT AT AT B B

Claims (20)

1. Kit for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows, comprising: 1) a first anhydrous “base-coat” colored composition (A), comprising in an oily phase: - at least one silicone resin; and - at least one silicone polyamide; and - at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and - at least one volatile polar solvent, and - at least one pigment; and 2) a second composition (B) comprising, in an aqueous phase, at least solid particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers in suspension in said aqueous phase. 2. Make-up kit according to claim 1, in which the pigment is chosen from mineral pigments, and preferably from metal oxides, in particular iron oxides, particularly metal oxides coated with a hydrophobic agent, more particularly oxides of iron coated with a hydrophobic agent, and even more particularly the iron oxides coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. 3. Makeup kit according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the silicone resin is chosen from MQ type resins, T type resins or MQT type resins. 4. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the silicone resin is of MQ type and chosen from (i) the alkylsiloxysilicates of formula [(R1) 3SiOi / 2] x (SiO4 / 2) _y , in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins ,. 5. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the silicone resin is of the MQ type and chosen from a resin of the T rimethylsiloxysilicate type. 6. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the silicone resin is present in the composition (A) in a dry matter content of the resin ranging from 8 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; or ranging from 10 to 35% by weight; or ranging from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). 7. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the silicone polyamide corresponds to the following formula (III): (ni) in which R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a C1 to C40 alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-CsH group? or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one to three methyl or ethyl groups, and m ranges from 1 to 700, or from 15 to 500, or from 50 to 200 and n ranges from 1 to 500, or 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25. 8. Make-up kit according to claim 7, in which the groups R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ represent methyl groups, one of X and Y represents an alkylene group of 6 carbon atoms and the other a group groups alkylene of 11 carbon atoms, n representing the degree of polymerization (DP) of the polymer. 9. Make-up kit according to claim 7 or 8, in which the silicone polyamide has the name INCI: NYLON-611 / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER ”. 10. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which the content of active material of silicone polyamide varies from 8 to 30% by weight; or from 10 to 25% by weight; or from 12 to 25% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). 11. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil be chosen from: - branched Cs-Cw alkanes such as Cs-Cw isoalkanes of petroleum origin; - linear C11-C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof; or isododecane. 12. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 11, in which the content of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) varies from 30 to 70% by weight; or from 30 to 60% by weight; or from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). 13. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in which the polar volatile solvent is chosen from C 2 -C 5 mono-alcohols; or isopropanol. 14. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the polar volatile solvent (s) is (are) present in the composition (A) at a content total greater than 1% by weight; or ranging from 1.5 to 30% by weight; or ranging from 1.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). 15. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight; or ranging from 5% to 15% by weight; or ranging from 6% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). 16. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the composition (B) comprises an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming polymer of styrene, ammonium methacrylate and of a monomer chosen from acrylic acid, acid methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters with INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer. 17. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 16, in which the composition (A) additionally comprises less a gelling agent and / or structuring of oils, in particular chosen from hydrophobic modified clays. 18. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 17, in which the composition (A) additionally comprises at least one wax. 19. Make-up kit according to any one of claims 1 to 18, in which the composition (B) additionally comprises at least one pigment chosen from pearlescent agents, particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular, interference, and their mixtures. 20. Cosmetic method for making up keratin materials, in particular the eyebrows and the skin around the eyebrows, comprising: - at least a first step of applying a first composition (A) as defined in any one of the preceding claims, on said keratin materials, and - at least a second step, successive to said first step, of applying to the layer formed by the composition (A) of at least one second composition (B) as defined in any one of the preceding claims.