GB2129461A

GB2129461A - Bulked cloth manufacturing method

Info

Publication number: GB2129461A
Application number: GB08329039A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Savko Andonov Bachtshevanov; Kiril Dimov Dimov; Milan Nikolov Savov; Stantsho Velev Arnaudov; Vesselin Pavlov Pavlov; Liliya Savova Sarkissova; Plamen Russev Panev; Yovtsho Dankov Mitkov
Original assignee: PAMUKOTEX; SK Pamukotex
Current assignee: PAMUKOTEX; SK Pamukotex
Priority date: 1982-10-29
Filing date: 1983-10-31
Publication date: 1984-05-16
Also published as: DE3339491A1; BG39917A1; PL139712B1; GB2129461B; SU1386681A1; GB8329039D0; JPS59130343A; PL244354A1

Abstract

Bulked cloth which may have for example a creped or crepon appearance, is produced by weaving or knitting a blend of combined and normal spun thread yarns or combined spun thread yarns only, the yarn(s) having normal twists therein, being made of synthetic fibres or from a blend of natural and synthetic fibres and the yarn of the cloth having been subjected to thermal processing before or after weaving or knitting.

Description

SPECIFICATION Bulked cloth manufacturing method This invention relates a method for making bulked or creped cloth formed of woven or knitted synthetic fibres or a blend of synthetic and natural fibres.

A method is known for making a bulked cloth wherein highly twisted yarns with above-critical twists of 1200 to 2,200 twists/m are used in the weaving of the cloth, being arranged along the weft of the cloth. Two warps having different tension or obtained from yarns formed of filaments showing different shrinkage may be used during weaving.

Disadvantages of this type of procedure are the low productivity and the decreased processability of the yarns during winding and weaving. Also disadvantageous are the unavoidable defects which arise due to kinking of the highly twisted yarns (wrinkles) and the necessity for the yarn to be subjected to a preliminary steam treatment. It is impossible to make a cloth with a constant width set from the outset. Moreover, the bulking effects obtained are unstable when the cloths are subject to temperatures above 1000C, washing, wearing and ironing.

As an alternative to this artificial bulking there may be employed chemical bulking methods. In one known method cloth with bulked or creped effect is obtained by applying concentrated sodium hydroxide to the cloth, generally employing a printing technique to apply the alkali, especially to selected areas of the cloth (see M. Keinbaum, ITB, No. (1981) 23 and No. 2 (1981) 95. This method is only applicable to 100% cotton fabrics. In a second chemical creping method referred to in United States Patent No. 3,505,000, compounds of the general formula RC5H4NH2,wherein R is H or CnH2n~ dissolved in methylene-, ethylene or propylene glycol are applied to the cloth which is then subjected to the action of steam, washing out of the compounds and drying.This method can be used only for cloths made from polyvinyl alcohol fibres. In a further chemical creping method disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 23709 which is however only applicable to cloths made from polyester fibres, the cloth is treated with naphthol derivatives having melting temperatures above 90"C.

A disadvantage of these chemical creping methods is the need to carry out a whole series of working steps, apart from the damage to printing devices, when used, by the aggressive chemicals employed, requiring the frequent replacement of parts of the printing devices.

In a further procedure for the production of a creped cloth, there is effected weaving or knitting of yarns blended with highly shrinkable synthetic fibres (see A. B. Pakshver, "Svojstva i ossobenosti pererabotki himicheskih volokon" (Properties and peculiarities of man-made fibres processing) "Chimia", M., 1975, p. 369.) A disadvantage of this method is that there is a need to carry out a significant number of technical steps if a cloth with a uniformly bulked effect is to be obtained.

Finally a thermal method for achieving creping is disclosed in Bulgarian Authors Certificate No.

25685 in which a cloth is obtained with a high yarn density by first producing a fabric made of yarn produced from synthetic fibres interwoven in seven-weave atlas (satin) which was unilaterally raised on the weft side. The raising of the fibres is thermally fixed at a temperature of 1 70--1 85"C at the end of the manufacturing process. A disadvantage of this procedure is the limited range of fabrics which can be worked with and the lack of variation in the texture of the bulking effect.

According to the present invention, there is provided a method for the manufacture of a bulked cloth which comprises weaving or knitting a blend of combined and normal spun thread yarns or combined spun thread yarns only, the yarn(s) having normal twists therein, being made of synthetic fibres or from a blend of natural and synthetic fibres, and the yarn of the cloth having been subjected to thermal processing before or after weaving or knitting. The term "synthetic yarn" as employed herein denotes both yarn made from fibres of fully synthetic origin, for example polyethylene terephthalate and yarn made of fibres of what is often called semi synthetic origin in particular regenerated cellulose as in rayon (viscose).

By employing the method according to the invention, it is possible to obtain a cloth having the character of a crepe, grooved or crepon cloth or that of a uniformly bulked cloth.

Cloth produced by the method of this invention is suitable for use in the manufacture of apparel in general, including outer garments, for decorative and technical purposes, for example for use in the fine filtration of gases in liquids and in the manufacture of electrical insulation tapes.

In carrying out the method of this invention, the following procedure may typically be adopted. In a first step, a combined thread yarn is first produced with a normal twist. In general a core thread will be wrapped with natural fibres, with synthetic fibres or with a blend of synthetic and natural fibres.

Preferably, the yarn will have a core of synthetic filamentary material wrapped in staple natural or synthetic fibres or fibre blends. The yarn used in such a case preferably has a core made from synthetic fibres possessing from 10 to 80%, preferably 10 to 70%, shrinkage in hot air at 200"C, i.e., when undergoing thermal processing. Any natural or synthetic fibres or blends thereof may be employed in making the staple fibres.

The yarn thus produced is knitted or woven weft-wise or may be warped and woven warp-wise.

The yarn may also be warp and weft woven. Thus it is possible to work only with combined spun yarn as well as with a mixture of combined and normal spun yarn. In general the combined spun yarn content of the cloth may range from 10 to 100% of the total number of spun yarn threads.

Finally the cloth is thermally processed. When carrying out the method of this invention, thermal processing can be carried out using hot air, water, steam, super heated steam, ultrasonic techniques or a combination of these heating methods. The thermal processing temperatures employed may range from 60 to 2500C and the length of the thermal processing may be from 30 seconds to 40 minutes.

More specifically, thermal processing with water may be carried out at a temperature in the range of from 80 to 1000C when a treatment time of from 1 to 40 minutes may be employed. Thermal processing with heated air may be employed at temperatures in the range of from 80 to 2500C for a duration of from 30 seconds to 30 minutes. Water, steam or super heated steam may be employed at temperatures in the range of from 80 to 2000C when a treatment time of from 30 seconds to 30 minutes will generally be employed. When thermal processing is carried out after weaving or knitting of the cloth, the cloth is preferably in a loose stock state. When thermal processing of a woven cloth is effected before weaving, thermal processing may be limited to warp or weft-forming yarn.

When employing polyethylene terephthalate thread in making the yarn, whether smooth or bulked, from which the cloth is to be made, polyethylene terephthalate melt is first transformed into spun thread at a temperature of from 275 to 3000C, preferably from 280 to 2950C, with fibre formation taking place at a rate of from 1 500 to 2200 m/min, preferably from 1900 to 2000 m/min, using a cooling air speed of from 0.3 to 1.2 m/sec, preferably from 0.6 to 0.8 m/sec, and a tension on the quiller of from 15 to 50 g, preferably from 25 to 35 g.Such thread is then generally subjected to vertical one stage drawing at a feed speed of from 900 to 1300 m/min, preferably from 1100 to 1200 m/min, at spindle revolutions of 10 to 12x 103 r.p.m. and a drawing ratio of 1:2 to 1:3, preferably from 1:2.4 to 1:2.7 at a temperature of from 20 to 1000 C, preferably from 25 to 600C. The thread is then wound on to cops. Thread with linear densities of 76/24 or 110/32 to 167/32 dtex can be produced in this way.

A cloth produced by the method of the present invention has been found to possess stable bulked appearance which may be that of creping or grooving or even uniform bulking over a wide area. A high density of bulking can be achieved in a method of high throughput, involving only a small number of technical steps. There is no need to employ any additional chemicals and the method is versatile both as to the nature of the fibres used for making the yarn from which the cloth is produced and with respect to the type of bulking achieved.

More particularly, the method of this invention involves only a small number of technical steps, more particularly a spinning step in which a conventional number of twists are applied to the yarn, without the need for any special devices to be employed. This procedure is applicable to a variety of types of yarn thereby enabling a wide assortment of cloths to be bulked. There is no need to employ aggressive chemicals which need to be regenerated and whose use generally leads to pollution of waste waters. The bulking effects achieved with the method of this invention have permanent form stability during subsequent working processes, as well as during washing, ironing and wearing. When a uniformly bulked cloth is produced, it may be produced in densities higher than those hitherto produced.Finally, the method of this invention enables there to be produced a cloth whose width is precisely as required and having a predeterminable extent of bulking.

The following Examples which are preceded by a preliminary preparative example which is not illustrative of this invention, illustrate this invention: Preparative example Mat (dull) polyethylene terephthalate granules containing 0.4% by weight TiO2 and having a relative viscosity of 1.61 in m-cresol or 0.840 in dichloroacetic acid were dried to a relative moisture content below 0.01% in a drying chamber subject to the continuous action of a back current of hot air, the air temperature at the entrance being from 1 80 to 2000C and at the exit from 90 to 1000C.

The conversion of the granules into fibres was carried out in an extruder installation at a temperature of 2880C using a thread-forming device with 24 openings and an opening diameter of 0.4 mm. The rate of conversion of the granules into fibres was 1 950 metres/min, the speed of the cooling air was 0.8 metres/sec. and the cooling air temperature was 250C. The thread bundle produced was taken up on to a quiller under a tension of 30 g with the thread quantities on the preparation layer amounting to 0.6%. Then the threads were subjected to a one-stage vertically directed drawing at a feed speed of 480 m/min, drawing speed of 1195 m/min, onto a spindle revolving at 11 x103 r.p.m.

The drawing ratio achieved was 1:2.48 for this drawing which was effected at a temperature of 250C.

The threads obtained were wound on to cops. 76/24 tex threads were obtained in this way.

The specific strength R of the threads obtained was determined to have a maximum of 33 CN/tex and the threads had an extensibility Emax of 21% on tearing, according to BDS 8060-74, shrinkage in hot air CBc of 50% and a shrinkage in hot water CBM of 37%, according to BDS 14437-81. The shrinkage forces were found to amount to 1.2 CN/tex.

Example 1 Manufacture of bulked cloth with a creped effect A yarn which was a blend containing 50% rayon, 50% cotton and of 30 tex, normal twist-750 twists/metre and designed for warping was spun on a ring spinning machine with a productivity per spinning head of 0.014 kg/hour. The yarn obtained was then utilised in the formation of the warp of a cloth. The weft of the cloth was made from a yarn which was a blend of 50% cotton, 50% rayon of 25 tex and had an above critical twist character of 1300 twists/m. This yarn had been spun on the same spinning frame with a productivity of 0.008 kg/hour at each location. This yarn was wound and subjected to the action of steam in an autoclave at 102-1 050C.

The weaving of the cloth was carried out on a shuttleless weaving machine P- 25 under the following conditions.

reed 100; reed width 109.5cm; warp 157 warp 286-210 thread density (number of threads/dm): grey weft 150 : finished weft 180 total number of warp threads: 1593; selvages: 52; thread number: 30 tex; weaving-in: 5%; weight (g/m2): warp 50.3 grey (g/m): grey weft 41.0; weight: grey 94 g/m2 total weight: finished 127-1 73 g/m2; plain weave-width (cm): grey 100, finished 55-77; breaking strength (dN): grey warp 22 finished warp 25-30 weft strength (dN): grey weft 1 6.

The grey cloth thus produced was desized with 2 g/l a-amylase 250 AE at 70-750C over 60 minutes and was then washed with warm water at 40-500C for 1 5 minutes after which it was boiled with 2.5 g/l detergent Veritol (oxyethylened alkylphenol detergent) and 3 g/l soda ash at 850C for 60 minutes. The cloth was finally washed with warm water, spun and dried at 900C over 15 minutes. A bulking effect appeared at the first wet processing (desizing). The cloth obtained was of conventional weight but had a partially bulked or creped appearance.

Example 2 Manufacture of crepon bulked cloth Yarn for use for both warp and weft of a cloth was spun on a ring spinning frame from 100% cotton thread, 20 tex, the yarn having normal twists of 750 twists/m, the spinning productivity being 0.013 kg/hour. The yarn was then warped and wound for weft.

The cloth was woven on a shuttleless weaving machine P-125 under the following conditions: reed: 100; reed width (cm); 100.3; density (number of threads/dm): grey warp 258 . . warp 326 weft weft 200; finished weft 230; total number warp threads: 2664; selvages: 56 threads 20 tex; weaving-in: 11% warp 58.5 weight (g/m): warp 58.5 weft 44.1 total weight (g/m): grey 126/100 g/m2; finished 93/116 g/m2; weave: plain width (cm): grey 102, finished 80 breaking strength (dN): grey warp 26 finished warp 22 weft 20; lea weft 18 The cloth obtained was then singed on both sides at a speed of 11 0/min, desized with 2.5 g/l aamylase 250 AE, washed with an aqueous solution of 2.0 g/l of Veritol detergent containing 1 g/l of antifoaming agent (respumous base emulsion of silicone oil) at a temperature of 42-50 C, pressure 3.5 kg/cm2 and then the cloth was aged for 5 hours. The cloth was then washed and boiled in an aqueous solution of 32.0 g/l sodium hydroxide, 2.0 g/l wetting agent concentrate W50 (based on alkylaryl derivatives), 5 g/l surfactant Precolin PKA (combination of surfactants, reducing agents, complex formers and specific additives).The cloth was then subjected to steam treatment at a temperature of 98 to 1000C for a period of 60 minutes, was washed again and then bleached with sodium hypochlorite and hydrogen peroxide. The cloth was subjected to a further steam treatment at a temperature of 98 to 1000C for a period of 30 minutes and then was washed and fully dried at a temperature of 980C as it was passed through a drying chamber at a speed of 1 5 m/min.

In order to produce a crepon effect on the thus treated cloth, a paste was printed on it. For carrying out the printing, the cloth was passed over an embossing shaft in a chamber with conveyors and a series of seven reels. The paste employed had the following composition: maize starch powder 12.5 kg salbitose C5 in flakes 12.5 kg sodium hydroxide 380Be 500.0 1 sodium hydroxide 450 bye 360.0 1 anionactive crosslinking agent 1.0 kg water 130.0 1 Finally the cloth was dehydrated, dried and confectioned. The cloth obtained had the rugged crepe appearance of crepon.

Example 3 A. The procedure of Example 1 was repeated except that the yarn used for the weft consisted of 75% normal spun thread yarn and 25% combined spun thread with normal twists (750 twists/m), obtained at a productivity per spinning head of 0.019 kg/hour. The core of the combined spun thread yarn was a polyester filament with a shrinkage of 50% (2000C in hot air) obtained by the procedure of Example 1 and the wrapping filaments were formed of a blend of 50% cotton/50% viscose fibres.

Desizing and washing of the fibres was carried out at a temperature in the range of 35 to 400 C.

Another difference from the procedure of Example 1 is that only the normal spun thread yarn was steamed. A final difference from the procedure of Example 1 was that the combined spun thread yarn was placed weft wise only at specific intervals, with normal spun weft yarn otherwise being employed.

The cloth obtained was a natural whitish colour and its yarn content was thermally bulked in a heating chamber (thermo-chamber) at a temperature of 1 900C over a period of two minutes. For this purpose the cloth was heated in the form of a loose stock. The cloth obtained showed partial bulking.

B. The procedure of Example 3A was repeated but with the difference that the combined thread yam constituted 50% of the total number of weft threads. The cloth obtained had a more fine grained partial bulking appearance.

C. The procedure of Example 3A was again repeated but with the difference now that the combined thread yarn constituted 75% of the total number of weft threads. The cloth obtained was again partially bulked with an appearance similar to that of the partially bulked cloth of Example 3A.

Example 4 The procedure of Example 3 was repeated with the differences that, in weaving, the normal weft thread was replaced by coloured normal yarn and part of the warp threads were replaced by coloured normal spun yarn threads. The cloth obtained had a versicoloured or checkered appearance and was partially bulked.

Example 5 The procedure of Example 3 was again repeated but with the difference that after weaving the cloth was desized with 2.5 g/l a-amylase 250 AE, while undergoing ageing for about two hours at a temperature of 35-400C. The cloth was then washed at a temperature of about 350C until it showed alkaline reaction, was bleached with sodium hypochlorite and then was washed on an open width washing machine at about 400C. The cloth was then subjected to thermal bulking at about 1 800C for a period of approximately 2 minutes. The bleached cloth obtained was partially bulked.

Example 6 The procedure of Example 3 was yet again repeated with the difference now that the normal weft threads for warp and weft and the wrap of the combined yarn thread were made from a blend of 67% polyester/33% viscose (rayon) fibres. The cloth obtained had a natural white colour and was partially bulked.

Example 7 The procedure of Example 6 was repeated with the difference that the normal weft threads and a part of the warp spun yarn threads were replaced by coloured spun normal yarn threads as in Example 4. The cloth obtained was versicoloured (checkered) and partially bulked.

Example 8 The procedure of Example 6 was repeated but with the difference that after weaving, the cloth was soaked in an aqueous solution containing a blend of disperse and reactive dyestuffs. The dyestuff solution contained 25 g/l of Furon blue S2R, 1 5 g/l of Remazol blue 3R and 20 g/l sodium carbonate.

The cloth was then dried at a temperature of about 140 C, was subjected to thermalising treatment at about 200 C and then was washed at 35-400C before being dried at about 1 700 C. The cloth obtained was uniformly dyed and of partially bulked appearance.

Example 9 The procedure of Example 3 was repeated but with the difference that the combined spun yarn thread used was wrapped with 100% polyester fibres and this thread was employed both for the weft and warp, For weft purposes, it was 28 x2 tex and for weft 83 tex. The weaving process employed was that described in Bulgarian Authors Certificate No. 25685, employing the following conditions: reed: 78/4; reed width: 178 cm; total number of warp threads: 5488; selvages: 26; threads 10x2 tex; weaving-in: 7% weave: seven-weave atlas.

After thermal bulking by the procedure described in Example 3 the cloth obtained had a uniformly bulky character and was suitable for filtration of liquids and gases. The cloth had the following parameters: Bulgarian authors certificate Parameters Example 9 no. 25685 Weight (g/m): unraised raised warp 165.0 165.0 grey weft 360.2 360.2 finished warp 198.0 weft weft 432 Total weight (g/m): grey 526.0 (388 g/m2) 526.4 (388 g/m2) finished 630.0 (486 g/m2) 571.1(435 g/m2) Breaking strength (dN): warp 300-340 - grey weft 260300 warp 280-320 250-290 finished weft 250-280 210-250 Air permeability 0.290-0.340 0.210-0.260 at 20 mm H2O/m3/m2 sec-'/ Rate of rendering dustless (%) 100.0 99.69

Claims

1. A method for the manufacture of a bulked cloth which comprises weaving or knitting a blend of combined and normal spun thread yarns or combined spun thread yarns only, the yarn(s) having normal twists therein, being made of synthetic fibres or from a blend of natural and synthetic fibres, and the yarn of the cloth having been subjected to thermal processing before or after weaving or knitting.

2. A method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cloth is a woven cloth in which thermal processing of warp or weft yarn only has been effected, which thermal processing has been effected before weaving of the cloth.

3. A method as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein combined spun thread yarn of the cloth has a synthetic fibre core having a shrinkage of from 10 to 80% in hot air at 200"C.

4. A method as claimed in claim 3, wherein the core has a shrinkage of from 10 to 70% in hot air at 200"C.

5. A method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combined spun yarn thread is wrapped with natural fibre or with synthetic fibre or a blend of natural and synthetic fibre.

6. A method as claimed in claim 3 or 4, wherein the core is wrapped in stable natural or synthetic fibres or fibre blends.

7. A method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the combined spun thread yarn content of the cloth is from 10 to 100%.

8. A method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thermal processing is carried out at a temperature of from 60 to 2500C for a duration of from 30 seconds to 40 minutes.

9. A method as claimed in claim 8, wherein the thermal processing is achieved with water at a temperature of from 80 to 1 OO"C over a period of from 1 to 40 minutes.

10. A method as claimed in claim 8, wherein thermal processing is achieved with heated air at a temperature of from 80 to 250"C over a period of from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

11. A method as claimed in claim 8, wherein thermal processing is carried out with water, steam or superheated steam at a temperature of from 80 to 2000 C over a period of from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

12. A method for the production of a bulked cloth, substantially as described in any one of the foregoing Examples.

13. A bulked cloth which has been produced by the method claimed in any one of the preceding claims.