JP2774579B2 - Wild silk-like polyester fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial applications]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a wild silkworm-like polyester fabric having a heat retaining property and suitable for women's clothing, winter clothing, sports clothing and the like.

[Prior art]

Conventionally, various attempts have been made to remove the gloss and sliminess inherent in synthetic fibers by modifying the cross-sectional shape of the synthetic fiber filament to impart a silky luster and texture to the synthetic fiber fabric. I have been. For example, a modified cross-section yarn having a triangular cross-section or a star-shaped projection has been put to practical use as one that imparts a feeling that removes silky luster and sliminess.
This has been difficult to obtain with conventional synthetic fibers. However, these are those of silkworm silk, especially those made of different shrinkage mixed fibers have rich luster, good drape, and a mellow and swelling feeling, but they are not refreshing. I feel hot. Recently, there has been a demand for a silky top material that gives a fabric a refreshing dry feeling, a swelling feeling, a squeaky feeling and lightness, and a warm taste. As a wild silk-like polyester yarn, for example, referring to page 80 of "Trigger", February 1984, a boomerang cross section latently crimped bulky yarn having a microgroove on its surface has been developed. This is intended to give a dry feeling by making the cross section a boomerang type and give a swelling feeling by crimping, but it is insufficient in squeaky feeling, lightness, surface feeling and warm taste. Did not fully satisfy the required quality.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The present invention has been made in view of such circumstances,
The purpose of the present invention is to obtain a wild silkworm-like polyester fabric having a good dry feeling, swelling feeling, warm taste, and firmness.

Means and action for solving the problem

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following configuration. That is, according to the present invention, the shrinkage ratio of boiling water differs by 5 to 40%
Each fiber group contains 3 to 80% of the number of filaments constituting each fiber group, each fiber group comprising a fine fiber having a single yarn fineness of 3 denier or more and a fine fine fiber having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less. Elongation difference of 10 in the constituent filament
% Polyester fiber with a core-sheath-type structure and a core-sheath structure, with white core fine particles capable of absorbing light energy and emitting far-infrared rays The invention is characterized by a wild silkworm-like polyester woven fabric having a heat retaining property characterized by comprising a strip. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, for a warp, a weft, or a warp or a weft of a woven fabric, each of the fiber groups is composed of two or more fiber groups having a boiling water shrinkage ratio different from 5 to 40%, and each fiber group has a single yarn fineness of 3 denier or more. And 1.5-denier or less fine-fiber fibers with a denier of less than 1.5%.
Polyester containing white filaments with a core-sheath structure in which the elongation difference in all constituent filaments is 10% or more, and only the fine-fiber fibers have a core-sheath structure that absorbs light energy and emits far-infrared rays Different shrinkage, different fineness and different elongation mixed fiber yarn is used. As used herein, the polyester yarn mainly refers to a fiber yarn represented by polyethylene terephthalate having ethylene terephthalate as a repeating unit, but if the yarn contains 85 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate units, it is regarded as a third component. Copolyester fiber yarns obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid or sodium sulfoisophthalate as an acid component and diethylene glycol, propylene glycol or neopentyl glycol as an alcohol component may be used. The difference in boiling water shrinkage between two or more fiber groups must be 5% or more, and a particularly preferable difference in boiling water shrinkage is 10 to 40%. If the difference in boiling water shrinkage is too small, the present invention hardly exhibits the bulging effect of the yarn due to the different shrinkage, and if it is too large, the convergence between filaments is reduced, causing trouble in the processing process. It is not preferable. Examples of the method of imparting a difference in shrinkage between the multifilaments include a method of imparting a structural difference to the polymer itself, a method of changing the spinning speed, the polymer concentration, and the like in the spinning step, and a method of changing the drawing conditions. It is relatively easy to change the stretching conditions. Each fiber group that composes the yarn is required to contain at least 3% of the number of constituent filaments, each of the fineness fibers having a single yarn fineness of 3 denier or more and the fineness fibers having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less. . The presence of the fine fibers can give the fabric a feeling of firmness, firmness or dryness, and the presence of the fine fibers can provide excellent softness, swelling, and drape. In the present invention, the single yarn fineness of the large fineness fiber needs to be 3 denier or more, and more preferably 4 to 7 denier. If the single-fiber fineness of this thick fineness fiber is 3 denier or less, the cross-sectional area of the single-fiber is too small, and the repulsive force against the lateral force, bending, and twisting applied to the single-fiber cannot be expected. Decrease. Further, the difference in fineness from the fine fineness fibers is too small, and the resulting fabric has no irregularities, resulting in a slimy fabric. It is necessary that the fine fiber having a single fiber fineness of 3 denier or more contains 3% or more of the number of constituent filaments of each fiber group, but preferably contains 10 to 50%.
3 denier or more fine fiber is composed of 3 filaments
%, The resilience cannot be expected due to the presence of too large a fineness fiber, resulting in a slimy fabric without firmness and firmness. In addition, if the fineness fiber of 3 denier or more exceeds 50% of the number of constituent filaments, the effect of the fineness fiber becomes too large, resulting in a rigid feeling lacking in drape property and softness, which is not preferable. . On the other hand, it is necessary that the fineness of the fine fiber is 1.5 denier or less, but the presence of the fine fiber provides drape and softness. The fine fiber having a denier of 1.5 denier or less needs to contain 3% or more of the number of constituent filaments, but preferably 20 to 80%. When the fine fiber size of 1.5 denier or less is less than 3% of the number of constituent filaments, the effect of the fine fiber size is small, and the texture of the fine fiber size is too large, resulting in a rigid texture lacking drape and softness. It is not preferable because it becomes. The difference between the maximum and minimum elongation of each single yarn constituting the yarn used in the present invention must be 10% or more, and is preferably
20-60%. If the difference between the maximum and minimum elongation of each constituent single yarn is 10% or less, the degree of orientation of each single yarn is inevitably high and uniform, and the soft feeling and the natural feeling disappear. It is not preferable. Although the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is not particularly limited, in order to most effectively achieve the object of the present invention, it is preferable that at least a part or the entire cross-sectional shape of the large fineness fiber has an irregular cross section. As an example of the irregular cross section, a conventionally known multi-lobal or flat one, or a special cross section combining these is suitably used. In particular, when the cross-sectional shape of the large fineness fiber is a flat cross-sectional shape having a rotationally asymmetric shape having a substantially straight flat stem portion and a protruding portion, the process until it becomes a woven fabric,
Even if the unit finenesses adhere to each other due to the turning force acting on the yarn or the impact when forming a woven fabric, the reduction of the voids between the single yarn fibers is suppressed, and the excessive shrinkage during heat treatment is also suppressed. This is preferred. Regarding the shape of the fine fiber, the shape similar to the fine fiber is preferable. As can be said for both fine and fine fibers, if the single yarns have a variety of cross-sectional shapes of two or three types, a woven fabric having an extremely good feeling can be obtained. Only the fine fiber has a core-sheath structure, and the core contains white fine particles capable of absorbing light energy and emitting far-infrared rays. White fine particles include stannic oxide doped with antimony oxide (antimony oxide /
(% By weight of stannic oxide = 0.5% / 99.5%-15.0% / 85.0%)
Fine particles or stannic oxide doped with antimony oxide can be converted to other inorganic substances (titanium oxide, zinc oxide, calcium oxide, calcium carbonate, zinc carbonate, calcium sulfate,
Fine particles coated on barium sulfate, alumina, etc. (antimony oxide / stannic oxide / weight% of other inorganic substances)
= 0.5% / 5.0% / 94.5% to 2.0% / 18.0% / 80.0%). The fine particles used in the present invention are powder having a particle size of 10 μm or less, preferably 1 μm or less, more preferably 0.5 μm or less.
It is a fine powder having a particle size of not more than m. If the particles are too large, not only will there be a problem with the heat retention, but also if the fibers are contained in the fibers described below, there will be problems such as clogging of the filter medium in the yarn-making process and a drop in spinnability due to yarn breakage. Even if it can be performed, there is a problem of yarn breakage in the drawing process. The content of white fine particles capable of absorbing light energy and emitting far-infrared rays is 0.1% by weight or more and 20% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or more,
% Or less, more preferably 1 to 7% by weight. If the content is less than 0.1% by weight, the desired heat retaining property cannot be obtained, and if the content is more than 20% by weight, the productivity of the fiber is poor, and a sufficient elongation cannot be obtained in terms of fiber quality. As a method for incorporating white particles having the ability to absorb light energy and emit far-infrared rays into fibers,
A method of directly mixing and spinning the raw material polymer of polyester, a method of manufacturing a masterbatch containing a high concentration in advance using a part of the raw material polymer, diluting the masterbatch to a predetermined concentration during spinning, and then spinning. There is. The mixed fiber referred to in the present invention is a filament yarn in which fibers having different boiling water shrinkage ratios, fibers having different cross-sectional shapes, fibers having different finenesses, fibers having different elongations, etc. are mixed together and mixed. The above-mentioned yarn may be woven using untwisted, or twisted at a rate of 300 turns / m or less, or entangled with compressed air to improve the color convergence, and then woven. May be. In weaving, the above-described yarn is used for warp, weft, or both warp and weft, and weaving is performed in a usual manner. Further, the woven fabric of the present invention is used after dyeing and finishing a normal different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.

【Example】

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. In the following examples and comparative examples, the performance evaluation of the dry feeling, swelling feeling, kissing feeling, firmness, and firmness of the fabric was based on the woven fabric using a wild silk thread, and the similarity with the standard was handled and visually checked. Was evaluated in the following ranking. ◎: Extremely good ○: Good Good △: Slightly poor ×: Poor In addition, the heat retention was measured using a 100 W white light source for photography in a constant temperature room at 20 ° C and 60%. The surface temperature was measured by a thermobicore, an infrared sensor manufactured by JEOL Ltd. (Example) A spinneret with 48 holes having different hole sizes, of which 8
The holes are made of a core-sheath composite, and the 40 holes are made of a spinneret for the Regulare. Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.02% by weight of titanium oxide for the Regulare and the sheath, and granules doped with antimony oxide in the core. 0.08μ diameter
a white fine particle mixture composition in which 20 parts by weight of fine particles of stannic oxide (weight%: antimony oxide / tin oxide = 10% / 90%) and 80 parts by weight of polyethylene terephthalate are uniformly melt-mixed. At a spinning temperature of 285 ° C, the discharge rate was adjusted so that the fineness after drawing was 75 denier, and the undrawn yarn was individually collected at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min for each 24 filaments. Subsequently, when drawing is performed using a drawing machine, as a high shrinkage yarn, a draw ratio of 2.6 and a hot roll temperature of 85 are used.
Under the condition of non-contact with the heater plate at 140 ℃ and 140 ℃,
The yarn was wound at a speed of 700 m / min to obtain 37.5 denier / 24 filament. At the same time, the low-shrink yarn is drawn under the same stretching ratio and the same hot roll temperature as those of the high-shrink yarn, and is drawn in contact with a heater plate at a temperature of 140 ° C at a speed of 700 m / min. Winding, 37.5 denier / 24
The filament of filament was obtained. At this time, the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the high shrinkage yarn was 28.3%, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the low shrinkage yarn was 5.
9% (22.4% difference in shrinkage). When the drawn yarn was defibrated and the single fiber fineness and elongation of all the filaments were measured, the single fiber fineness was distributed in the range of 0.5 to 5 denier for both high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn. 25% had fine denier of 3 denier or more and 50% had fine denier of 1.5 denier or less. Regarding elongation, the maximum value is 72.6% and the minimum value is 32.3% among all filaments.
(Elongation difference 40.3%), all filaments were distributed in this range. Using the obtained yarn, weaving was carried out using the weft as a weft, followed by a relux refining at 90 ° C for 3 minutes using a low tension expansion open soaper manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. Thereafter, a dry heat set at 170 ° C for 30 seconds was performed using a heat setter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd. at a setting of 10% overfeed in the longitudinal direction and a width of -2 cm in the weft direction at 170 ° C. After a 15% alkali reduction treatment by the method described above, use a disperse dye DianixBlue U-SE 0.1% owf manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd. at 130 ° C. using a Circular dyer manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd.
The fabric was dyed for 0 minutes, dried, and finished under a dry heat condition at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a plain dyed product. Table 1 shows the results of evaluation of the dryness, swelling, tingling, firmness, stiffness and heat retention of this woven fabric (Habuta). For comparison with the method of the present invention, among the spinnerets with 48 holes having different hole sizes in the present embodiment, the core-sheath type die having eight holes was changed to a Regular die, and white fine particles in the core were mixed. Except for omitting, a fabric (Habuta) of the comparative example was manufactured by the same method as in the present example, and the dry feeling, swelling feeling, squeaking feeling, firmness, stiffness and heat retention were evaluated.
The results are shown in Table 1. As is clear from Table 1, the fabric of the present invention using the yarn containing white fine particles in the core-sheath system can obtain a better feeling of wild silk and a light source as compared with the fabric of the comparative example. Absorb the energy of the dough and raise the surface temperature of the dough,
Good heat retention was shown.

【The invention's effect】

In the woven fabric of the present invention, a refreshing dry feeling, a swelling feeling, a squeaking feeling, an appropriate firmness and a firmness are generated from the different shrinkage / different fineness / different elongation levels, and a feeling close to that of wild silkworm silk is obtained. In addition, the warmth is added by the inclusion of white fine particles that have the ability to absorb light energy and emit far-infrared rays in the center of the large fineness, and the warm taste is synergistic. Although mainly used, the woven fabric of the present invention can be widely deployed seasonally, and is most suitable for autumn / winter applications, particularly for women's dresses and blouses, which often wear relatively thin clothes.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on front page (58) Field surveyed (Int.Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D03D 15/00-15/12 D01F 8/14

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A fiber comprising two or more fiber groups differing in boiling water shrinkage by 5 to 40%, each fiber group comprising a fine fiber having a denier of 3 denier or more and a fiber having a denier of 1.5 denier or less. 3 to 80% of the number of filaments in each fiber group
Including, the elongation difference among all constituent filaments is 10% or more,
In addition, only the fine-fiber fibers have a core-sheath type structure, and are composed of polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage heterogeneity and elongation mixed fiber containing white fine particles capable of absorbing light energy and emitting far-infrared rays in the core. Wild silk-like polyester woven fabric characterized by the following.