JP2805066B2 - Worsted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION << Industrial Application Field >> The present invention relates to a woven fabric made of synthetic multifilament yarn and having a worsted-like feeling with excellent waist and tension.

<< Conventional Technology >> The development history of synthetic fiber in the field of apparel can be said to be an approach to natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, silk, and wool. Among them, worsted fabrics using wool fibers are most commonly used for so-called suits such as women's clothing and men's clothing, and are regarded as luxury goods. Research and development of expressing and creating the appearance and feel of the worsted-like fabric with synthetic fibers have been promoted.

As a worsted-like woven fabric using synthetic fibers, short fiber spinning, in particular, worsted spinning, which has a relatively long fiber length, like worsted, is generally used. It is advanced and has a long history. The most common approach to a worsted fabric using synthetic fiber multifilament processing yarn is a false twist processing yarn. The reason is that wool fiber is generally 3
This is because it has a dimension shrinkage and its structure expresses a swelling feeling in the woven fabric. Based on the false twisting technology, approaches have been made to mix the fineness of the worsted fabric with a fineness in order to impart a feeling, particularly tension and stiffness, or to mix it with a hetero-dyed fiber in appearance.

Then, as a method of obtaining a woven fabric with a softer texture and color mix, an approach based on the composite temporary twisted yarn method is used, and using the Taslan processing technology,
Various studies have been made to improve the texture of worsted tone by, for example, twisting a loop yarn of a temporary warp yarn with another yarn.

｝ Problems to be solved by the invention｝ As a conventional method of making a worsted-like woven fabric, false twisting of synthetic multifilament yarn, and furthermore, a method of composite false twisting, due to a decrease in shrinkage due to heat history in false twisting. The processing shrinkage and shrinkage of the woven fabric were limited, and it was not possible to approach the wrinkled texture of the worsted woven fabric, ie, swelling, tension, and waist, one step at a time.

In addition, in the case of loop yarns using the Taslan processing technology, it is difficult to use warp yarns as they are at a certain density or higher, and it is difficult to use warp yarns as raw yarns or other processed yarns as a means of improving process passability. In the twisting, the loop of Taslan was extremely suppressed, and the swelling was reduced, and there was a limit to the appearance of texture due to the processing shrinkage and shrinkage in the dyeing process.

The object of the present invention is to pay attention to the above conventional problems, open loop of synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, impart real twist to the entangled mixed fiber having a closed loop, bulge softly, stretch,
It is intended to provide a worsted worsted fabric.

<< Means for Solving the Problems >> The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object.

That is, an open loop made of a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, a woven fabric using an entangled mixed fiber consisting of at least two or more different shrinkage yarns in which a closed loop is mixed, and the entangled mixed fiber has a twist coefficient of 5,000 to A worsted-like woven fabric characterized in that 24500 real twists are inserted.

The above-mentioned entangled mixed yarn is preferably an entangled mixed yarn comprising at least two or more types of yarns of different fineness.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The open loop is wound around the yarn surface by inserting a real twist into an interlaced mixed yarn in which an open loop and a closed loop made of a synthetic multifilament yarn are mixed, and a part of the open loop becomes a closed loop. Further, the closed loop is tensioned in the direction of the fiber axis as the number of twists increases, and is miniaturized. And part of the closed loop and open loop is involved,
Fills the fiber density, giving the yarn swelling and resilience.

That is, when the actual number of twists increases, the open loop and the closed loop become smaller and denser, and are distributed on the yarn surface, thereby performing the same function as the fluff of the spun yarn. .

The real twist inserted here is necessary for suppressing a large closed loop, miniaturizing the loop and distributing it on the yarn surface, giving a soft feeling and giving the woven fabric a waist-like waist, tension and resilience. The twist coefficient of the real twist is 5000-2450
0 is suitable and preferably in the range from 6500 to 23500.

Here, the twist coefficient is Is represented by

If the twist coefficient is less than 5,000, the feel is soft, but the worsted tone is not enough to obtain the waist.If the twist coefficient is greater than 24,500, the thread is too tight and the swelling decreases And the feeling becomes hard, which is not preferable.

Normally, as shown in No. 4 in Table 1, loop yarns often have a thickened portion (mainly open loop) on the surface layer of the yarn, and if used as it is, it can be used in any process such as rewinding and fiber manufacturing. bad. When a real twist is inserted into this, the large thickness portion of the surface layer is reduced and small loops are increased on the yarn surface.

On the other hand, as shown in No. 1 to No. 3 in Table 1, the latent loop yarns that can remarkably improve the high-order permeability have very little loop C corresponding to a large tarmi in various denier ranges, and have actual twists. , There is a tendency to further decrease. Then, as the actual number of twists increases, the small loop portion increases. This is thought to be due to the fact that fluffy loops increase on the yarn surface and contribute to the swelling of the fabric.

Further, in order to obtain a worsted-like swelling, tightness, and excellent waist, the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn having the open loop and the closed loop may be an interlaced mixed yarn of at least two or more kinds of different fineness yarns. preferable.

The entangled mixed yarn consisting of different shrinkage yarns promotes the expression of low shrinkage side loops due to the high shrinkage side shrinkage by expressing the yarn shrinkage in the subsequent dyeing process, and reduces the shrinkage of the woven fabric structure due to the yarn shrinkage rate. With help, it is possible to increase the rate of crimping of the yarn in the fabric and to give it a bulge, a tightness and a stiffness, which behaves like a worsted fabric. The boiling water shrinkage of the different shrinkage mixed fiber is preferably 10% or more.

The interlaced mixed yarns of different shrinkage and different fineness yarns use a relatively large fineness yarn as the original yarn (high shrinkage yarn) located on the core side during the interlacing mixed fiber processing, and the original yarn located on the sheath side. By using a yarn having a relatively small fineness as a yarn (low shrinkage yarn), a worsted tone fabric having a soft feeling, a tension and a waist can be obtained.

In addition, open-loop and closed-loop mixed entangled mixed yarns composed of synthetic multifilaments are different from ordinary loop yarn types, and can be woven at higher density than conventional loop yarns by using them as latent loop yarns. A high-density fabric that cannot be obtained with a worsted fabric using wool fibers can be obtained.

Loop yarn obtained by general Taslan processing,
The large and small closed loops have the drawback that the heald and reeds of the warp in the weaving process have poor passing properties.However, by making the loops latent, the number of open loops is reduced. Thus, the open loop is further miniaturized, and there is an effect that the passability of the weaving process is improved. Since the loop is latent, the loop can be developed by performing a heat treatment in a relatively free state such as a relaxation treatment in the dyeing process.

In addition, as the woven fabric using the actual loop insertion yarn of the latent loop yarn, a worsted woven fabric can be obtained by using the warp yarn and the weft yarn. A worsted yarn made of conventional wool fiber or a spun yarn such as a polyester / wool blend may be used as the weft yarn. Also, by using a conventional worsted yarn or the like for the warp and using the actual warp insertion yarn of the latent loop yarn for the weft, a high-density worsted fabric can be obtained.

The entangled mixed latent loop yarn in which the open loop and the closed loop are mixed here will be described.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a method for producing a latent loop yarn applicable to the present invention.

As shown in FIG. 1, a yarn 2 unwound from a core yarn package 1 is supplied to a processing device 4 that forms a turbulent airflow region via a first supply roller 3.

On the other hand, the yarn 6 supplied from the sheath yarn package 5 is the second yarn.
Is supplied to the processing apparatus 4 via the supply roller 7 of the first embodiment. These yarns 2 and 6 are simultaneously passed through appropriate guides 8 and 9 to the processing device 4
Supplied to In addition, it can also be supplied directly from the guide 8 to the processing device 4.

The two yarns 2 and 6 that have passed through the compressed air turbulence region generated in the processing device 4 become a loop yarn 10 and become the first take-up roller 1.
1 and the second take-up roller 12, and further the winding device 1
It is wound up on the package 14 through 3. The yarn is tensioned between the first take-up roller 11 and the second take-up roller 12.

This tension is preferable because it has an effect of eliminating large loops and loops of the loop yarn, and does not significantly affect the occurrence of loops and loops which become apparent by the heat treatment. If the tension is small, the effect of eliminating loops and tarmi is small. If the tension is too large, even minute loops of the loop yarn formed in the turbulent region of the pneumatic air are undesirably eliminated. It is preferable that the loop be erased to such an extent that almost no loop can be seen on the yarn surface with the naked eye (a fine loop can be seen with a magnifying glass or a microscope).

The method for producing a latent loop yarn is preferably performed under the following conditions.

Boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 10% or more and single fiber fineness is 1 to
Using a 15d multifilament yarn, the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the sheath yarn and the core yarn is at least 5%, and the single fiber fineness is 0.05 to
Use 1.3d multifilament yarn.

These yarns are supplied from individual supply rollers to a processing device (pressurized air supply amount of 80 to 120 N / min) forming a compressed air turbulent flow area with different overfeed rates, discharged from the processing device, and subjected to entanglement and blending processing. The applied latent loop yarn is taken up by the same take-up roller.

The term Obafuido rate and is the surface speed of the feed roller and V _1, when the surface speed of the take-up roller and the V _2,
Assuming that the feed rate is F (%), F (%) = ｛(V1−V
2) When the value of / V2｝ × 100 becomes (+), it is called the overfeed rate.

The conditions may be determined so that the overfeed α of the core yarn is 2 to 15% and the overfeed rate β of the sheath yarn is 5 to 30%.

More preferably, the yarn drawn from the first take-up roller is continuously tensioned by the second take-up roller at an underfeed rate of 0.4α to 0.8α with respect to the overfeed rate α of the core yarn. It is winding up while.

It is preferable to use a core fiber having a single fiber fineness of 1 to 15 d. When the single fiber fineness is smaller than 1 d, even when heat-treated, the contraction force is small, so that the substantial shrinkage decreases, and it becomes difficult to obtain the target yarn shrinkage. On the other hand, if the thickness is larger than 15d, the rigidity of the yarn itself becomes large, and the knitted fabric becomes coarse and hard, which deteriorates the feeling, which is not preferable.

Although it is preferable that the contraction rate of the core yarn itself is large,
A yarn having a large shrinkage has dimensional stability and changes with time, and has a problem in terms of product quality stability. Usually, 10 to 30% is preferable.

The sheath yarn preferably has a single fiber fineness of 0.05 to 1.3 d.
A fiber having a single fiber fineness of 0.05 d or less is also preferable, but when the fiber is thinner, handling of the yarn becomes difficult due to generation of fluff and the like. Also,
When it is thicker than 1.3d, it is difficult to make a fine loop,
The use of fabric is not preferred because the feel becomes coarse and hard.

The lower the shrinkage of the sheath yarn, the better. However, special yarns have problems in yarn processability and dyeing, and ordinary shrink yarns (△
s = about 7.5%). In essence, the manifestation of loops and tarmi depends on the difference in shrinkage between the core yarn and the sheath yarn.
Preferably, this value is at least 5%. Further, in the process of manufacturing the manifest loop yarn, the overfeed rate α of the core yarn is 2 to 15%, the overfeed rate β of the sheath yarn is 5 to 30%, and the difference β−α between the two is 3 to 15%. Is good.

This condition is suitable for making small loops and tarmi in the turbulent region.

The latent loop yarn obtained by the above method is a hetero-shrinkage entangled mixed-fiber synthetic filament multifilament composite yarn having fine loops and tarmi on the surface of the yarn, and the number of the fine loops is reduced by heat treatment under no tension. , And the size can be increased.

The above fine loop has a loop A defined below of 30
More than 0 / m, more than 50 loops / m and less than 10 loops C. In hot water of 98 ° C, 10
When heat-treated by free shrinking for one minute, the number of loops B after drying becomes 1.5 times or more the number before the heat treatment, and the number of loops C becomes 50 or more / m.

The loop A, loop B and loop C used here are a photoelectric fuzzy measuring device (TORAY FRAY COUNTER) for measuring the number of loops and the number of fluffs of a running yarn, and the yarn speed is 50 m / min and the running tension is 0.1 g / min. Measured under the condition of d, the number of loops / m protruding 0.15 mm or more from the yarn surface is Loop A, the number of loops / m protruding 0.35 mm or more is Loop B, and the number of loops / m protruding 0.6 mm or more is Loop C. It was done.

The latent loop yarns described above have a small number and size of loops and tarmi present in the latent loop yarn, and have a relatively low bulk height. In particular, it is characterized in that the number of loops and bulges protruding from the yarn surface by 0.6 mm or more is extremely small at 10 or less per m, which is almost nil.

That is, in the state immediately after the yarn has passed through the compressed air turbulent flow region and processed as the entangled mixed fiber composite yarn, the appearance as a bulky yarn is hardly seen.

However, when this latent loop yarn is heat-treated in hot water at 98 ° C for 10 minutes without tension, the core yarn is a high shrinkage yarn,
Since the sheath yarn is a low shrink yarn or a normal shrink yarn, the latent loop yarn itself shrinks.

When the latent loop yarn itself shrinks, the filament of the core yarn and the filament of the sheath yarn are entangled by entanglement with each other, and the sheath yarn is a normal shrinkage yarn or a low shrinkage yarn. The filament shrinks little, and as the core yarn shrinks, it becomes a loop and a tarmi, forming a bulky latent loop yarn protruding from the yarn surface.

The exposed loop yarn, in which loops and tarmi were exposed by heat treatment, the loop B projecting 0.35 mm or more from the yarn surface increased 1.5 times or more compared to that before treatment, and the loop C projecting from the yarn surface increased to 50 loops / m or more. And significantly increase the bulkiness.

As described above, in the latent loop yarn obtained by the present invention, loops and tarmi are latent during the production of yarn, and the number of loops C protruding from the yarn surface is extremely small. Therefore, the running resistance of the yarn is small since the bulk of the yarn itself is low and the yarn surface is relatively smooth.

In particular, when used as a warp yarn of a woven fabric, the heddle and the reed can pass well, there is no entanglement between the loops, and no poor opening occurs. Therefore, it can be used for warp yarns of textiles.

At the time of dyeing processing after weaving, heat treatment (drying, moist heat, steaming) is performed alone or in combination with dyeing under high temperature and no tension, thereby revealing loops and tarmi of latent loop yarns. It is possible to obtain a high density and bulky fabric.

Note that the characteristics of the latent loop yarn are characteristics in a state where no actual twist is inserted.

 Hereinafter, embodiments will be described.

Example 1 Polyfilament yarn 50 having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% as a multi-filament yarn constituting a relatively core side
Using a D-24F round cross-section bright yarn, a polyester filament yarn 50D-72F round cross-section filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 7.5% as a multifilament yarn constituting the relatively sheath side, and an overfeed rate of the core yarn side of + 9% , The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn side + 15%, the feed rate of the first take-up roller and the second take-up roller is -5.4%, and the compressed air supply rate is 90 N / m.
The mixture was pressurized with a turbulent nozzle of "in" to obtain an interlaced mixed fiber. The twisted mixed fiber is twisted with an up twister at a twist number of 650 T / M (twist coefficient = 66).
92) was inserted to obtain a loop yarn shown in No. 1 of Table 1.

Polyester filament 75D-36F with a 20% boiling water shrinkage etc. is used as the multifilament yarn constituting the relatively core side of the weft yarn. 7.5
% Polyester film filament yarn 75D-96F using a round cross-section bright yarn and an overfeed ratio of 9.2 on the core yarn side.
%, The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn side is 15.3%, the feed rate of the first take-up roller and the second take-up roller is -5.5%, and pressure is applied by a turbulent nozzle with a compressed air supply rate of 90 N / min. An entangled mixed yarn having loop characteristics is obtained, and the entangled mixed yarn is twisted by an up twister at a twist number of 650 T / M (twist coefficient = 7,96).
0) and warp without glue.
The greige machine woven with a variable texture (Venetian) with a length of 25.4 mm and a weft yarn density of 80 / 25.4 mm is subjected to a dyeing process starting from the normal liquid flow relaxation process (N weight loss rate 5%), and the warp yarn density A high-density woven fabric was obtained at 215 yarns / 25.4 mm and weft yarn density 108 yarns / 25.4 mm. The woven fabric obtained had a worsted appearance, a swelling, tension, and a woven fabric suitable for a coated fabric having a waist.

Example 2 Boiling water shrinkage of 10% as a polyester filament yarn composing a relatively core side and a sheath side as warp and weft
Using a 75D-72F round cross-section cationic dyeable type bright yarn having an overfeed rate of 9.2% on the core yarn side, an overfeed rate of 15.3% on the sheath yarn side, and a feed rate of -5.5 between the first take-up roller and the second take-up roller. %, And pressurized with a turbulent nozzle at a compressed air supply rate of 90 N / min to obtain an entangled mixed fiber. The yarn is twisted with an up twister at 1500 T / M (twist coefficient = 18,370) S twist,
Two types of twisting of Z twist are performed, and each is set with a steam set at 80 ° C x 40 minutes. After that, both warp and weft are S, Z2.
Weaving plain weave with rapier weaving machine with 123 warp / 25.4mm and 54 weft / 25.4mm weft density warp by alternate arrangement one by one, 120 ° C liquid flow relaxing, middle set, N reduction (8%), 130 ° C liquid The fabric was dyed black by a flow method, and after finishing setting, dyeing was performed to obtain a fabric having a warp density of 139 yarns / 25.4 mm and a weft yarn density of 63 yarns / 25.4 mm. The woven fabric had an excellent hand that was not different from that of a normal worsted georgette woven fabric, and was excellent in black color development due to its thread structure.

In Table 1, in Experiment No. 1, the core yarn was a high shrinkage yarn of 30D-12F, and the sheath yarn was a low shrinkage yarn of 30D-48F. Experiment No. 2 was a core yarn. Is a high shrinkage yarn of 50D-24F, the sheath yarn is a low shrinkage yarn of 50D-72F, and in Experiment No. 3, the core yarn is a high shrinkage yarn of 75D-36F, and the sheath yarn is The test was performed using a low shrink yarn of 75D-96F,
o.4 is a high-shrink yarn having a core yarn of 75D-36F, and a sheath yarn of 75D-36F.
This is a normal loop yarn which uses a 96F low shrinkage yarn and has not been subjected to loop latent processing.

<< Effect >> The present invention, by adopting the above configuration, is a woven fabric composed of entangled mixed yarn having an open loop and a closed loop of a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, but soft and bulging,
A worsted fabric with good tension and waist was obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a method for producing a latent loop yarn applicable to the present invention. 1: Core yarn package, 2: Core yarn 3: First supply roller, 4: Processing device 5: Sheath yarn package, 6: Sheath yarn 7: Second supply roller 10: Loop yarn 11: First take-up roller 12: Second take-up roller 13: Take-up device

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Keitaro Nabeshima, Inventor 3-3-1, Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Toray Industries, Inc. Osaka Head Office (72) Inventor Eiji Doi 3--3, Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka, Osaka No. 3 Toray Industries, Inc. Osaka Head Office (56) References JP-A-52-110973 (JP, A) JP-A-51-102167 (JP, A) JP-A-56-154573 (JP, A) JP-A Sho 54-147266 (JP, A) JP-A-50-63272 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D03D 15/00 D02G 3/26 D02G 3/34

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A woven fabric using an interlaced mixed yarn composed of at least two or more different shrinkage yarns, wherein an open loop and a closed loop composed of a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn are mixed.
A worsted woven fabric, wherein a real twist having a twist coefficient of 5000 to 24500 is inserted into the entangled mixed yarn. 2. A worsted woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein said entangled mixed yarn is an entangled mixed yarn comprising at least two types of yarns of different fineness.