JP2898532B2 - Suede-like fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric, and more particularly to a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric which is homogeneous, has excellent ground tightness, and has good stretchability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method of obtaining a suede-like woven fabric, a method of applying a urethane resin to a woven fabric made of ultrafine fibers and then raising the ultrafine fibers to the surface by brushing or buffing is generally used.

The above-mentioned urethane resin is for imparting a feeling of ground tightness to a woven fabric. However, the urethane resin has poor light fastness when dyed, and dye transfer occurs by ironing or the like to cause dye transfer. There was a problem.

In order to solve such a problem, Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No.
No. 44137 discloses that a woven fabric composed of a polyester / polyamide conjugate fiber capable of being converted to ultrafine fibers and a polyester multifilament having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 25% or more is shrunk by 30% or more, and then the conjugate fiber A method of obtaining a suede-like fabric by splitting a part is disclosed.

According to the above-mentioned method, it is possible to give the feeling of tightness of natural suede without using a urethane resin. However, even a slight temperature difference or a difference in tension easily causes shrinkage spots. Among the composite yarns constituting the woven fabric, especially, the multifilaments located at the core part adhere to each other by heat shrinkage, so that the permeation and circulation of the processing solution for splitting the conjugate fibers becomes insufficient, and There was a problem that fibers that were not cracked remained in the portion, and the surface touch was hardened and stained spots were generated.

Further, it has been found that the woven fabric obtained by the above method has a drawback that it has poor stretchability and is inferior in workability during sewing and a feeling of wearing.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a suede-like woven fabric which solves the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, is homogeneous, has an excellent tightness in the ground, and has good stretchability. It is in.

[0008]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have found that a conjugate filament capable of expressing a three-dimensional crimp on the core of a two-layer structure yarn constituting a woven fabric. When imparting a sense of firmness to the woven fabric by the restoring force of the crimp, the penetration and circulation of the treatment liquid for dissolving the conjugate fibers arranged in the sheath portion are improved, and the elasticity is improved. It has been found that the desired suede-like fabric can be obtained.

Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a splittable conjugate fiber in which a conjugate filament capable of expressing a three-dimensional crimp by heating, having a crimp developing ability, is arranged in a core portion, and which can be formed into an ultrafine fiber. After weaving the core-sheath type double-layer structure yarn in which the sea-island type conjugate fiber is arranged in the sheath portion for the warp group and / or the weft group, the crimp of the conjugate filament is developed, and the split type is formed. A method for producing a suede-like woven fabric, characterized in that at least a part of the conjugate fiber and / or the sea-island type conjugate fiber is cracked to form an ultrafine fiber.

The conjugate filament used in the present invention develops a three-dimensional crimp (for example, a coiled crimp) by heating without performing a mechanical crimp such as false twisting. This is a conjugate filament that can be used, and a polyester conjugate filament is preferable from the viewpoint of chlorine resistance and heat resistance.

When the conjugate filament does not exhibit three-dimensional crimping, the fabric cannot be given a feeling of ground tightness, and sufficient voids are not provided between the filaments arranged in the core portion, so The penetration and circulation of the treatment liquid may be insufficient, and the stretchability of the obtained woven fabric may be reduced.

As the conjugate filament, a conjugate filament obtained by compound-spinning two kinds of components mainly composed of polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate into a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath core type, or a polyethylene having a different intrinsic viscosity. Examples thereof include conjugate filaments in which terephthalate is composite-spun in a side-by-side type or eccentric sea core type, and in particular, conjugates in which two components mainly comprising polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate are composite-spun in a side-by-side type. Filaments are preferred.

The conjugate fiber used in the present invention is, as shown in FIG. 1, a splittable conjugate fiber having a fiber cross-sectional shape in which one component A is divided into a plurality of other components B and / or As shown in FIG. 2, the sea component C and the island component D
And sea-island composite fibers.

The above-mentioned splittable conjugate fiber can form an ultrafine fiber by dissolving and removing either component A or B. Further, for example, it may be one that exfoliates due to a difference in shrinkage ratio between components A and B to form ultrafine fibers.

In the case of a sea-island type composite fiber, an ultrafine fiber can be formed by dissolving and removing only the sea component C.

The form of the conjugate fiber, the combination of the components A and B in the splittable conjugate fiber, or the combination of the components C and D in the sea-island conjugate fiber can be appropriately set according to the desired fineness, conditions of the cracking treatment, and the like. In particular, 3% by weight of a polyetherester comprising a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component is used as the component A.
A preferred example is a splittable conjugate fiber using the polyester contained above and a polyester having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit as the component B.

[0017] The core-sheath type double-layer yarn used in the present invention is obtained by aligning the conjugate filament with the splittable conjugate fiber and / or the sea-island type conjugate fiber, by twisting, air entangling or simultaneous false twisting. And can be obtained by mixing.

At this time, it is necessary to provide a difference in feed, a difference in shrinkage or a difference in elongation so that the conjugate filament is disposed in the core and the composite fiber is disposed in the sheath.

Above all, if a conjugate filament and a conjugate fiber having a higher elongation than the filament are air-entangled and then subjected to simultaneous false twisting, mechanical crimp is imparted in addition to the crimp developed by the conjugate filament itself. In addition, a core-sheath type double-layer yarn having no deviation between the core yarn and the sheath yarn can be obtained, which is preferable.

Next, weaving is performed using the core-sheath type double-layer structured yarn for the warp group and / or the weft group. It is possible to obtain a high quality woven fabric by using the double-layer structured yarn for both the warp and the weft. it can.

At the time of weaving, it may be cross-woven with natural fibers, regenerated fibers or synthetic fibers as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.

There is no particular limitation on the weave structure, and plain weave, twill weave,
Any weave structure such as satin weave can be adopted.

Next, the obtained woven fabric is subjected to dry heat and / or wet heat treatment such as scouring, relaxation, or presetting to develop crimps of the conjugate filament, and one component of the splittable conjugate fiber and And / or treating the sea component of the sea-island type composite fiber with a solvent capable of dissolving, and fusing the fiber on the surface of the woven fabric to form an ultrafine fiber.

The type of the solvent used for the melting and the processing conditions are as follows:
It may be appropriately selected according to the constituent components of the conjugate fiber. For example, the aforementioned component A is a polyester containing 3% by weight or more of a polyetherester composed of a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component, and component B is used. In the case of a splittable conjugate fiber using a polyester having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, a low-concentration aqueous alkaline solution and short-time cracking are preferable.

The above-described heat treatment for causing crimping and the splitting of the composite fiber may be performed simultaneously or in separate steps. When the heat treatment is performed in separate steps, it is preferable to perform the heat treatment for developing the crimp prior to the melting of the conjugate fiber.

Further, when the split type composite fiber and / or the sea-island type composite fiber appearing on the surface of the woven fabric are fluffed by napping or buffing, a better suede-like surface touch can be obtained.

This fluffing may be carried out before or after the above-mentioned conjugate fiber is split.

[0028]

According to the present invention, a conjugate filament capable of expressing three-dimensional crimp by heating and having a crimp developing ability is disposed on the core of the core-sheath type two-layer structure yarn. Since the split-type composite fibers and / or sea-island-type composite fibers that can be converted into ultrafine fibers are arranged, a suede-like woven fabric having a uniform and soft surface touch without remaining unfused fibers is obtained.

That is, the conjugate filament is heated in the refining, relaxing, presetting or splitting process of the woven fabric, and develops a three-dimensional crimp.
The woven fabric shrinks due to the restoring force of the crimp, and it becomes possible to give a feeling of ground tightness.

In addition, since voids are provided between the filaments due to the appearance of three-dimensional crimps, the treatment liquid permeates and circulates smoothly during the cracking treatment, and a uniform ultrafine fiber layer is formed on the surface layer of the fabric. Therefore, a good suede-like feeling is exhibited in combination with a feeling of tightness due to shrinkage of the fabric.

Moreover, the shrinkage of the woven fabric is reversible because it is caused by the development of a crimping force, and the shrunk woven fabric is also given elasticity.

On the other hand, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. Hei.
In the method disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 7, since the multifilament having a high shrinkage rate disposed in the core portion shrinks by heating,
Irregularities in contraction are likely to occur due to a slight difference in temperature or tension, and voids are hardly provided between the multifilaments, thereby impeding the penetration and circulation of the processing solution in the cracking treatment.

Furthermore, shrinkage due to heating is not reversible, and the shrunk woven fabric does not exhibit stretchability.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-44137 also discloses that a draw false twist is adopted as a composite means, but it is necessary to lower the false twist temperature in order to obtain a high shrinkage fiber. In some cases, under such conditions, it is not possible to provide crimps such that voids are generated between the multifilaments in the core.

[0035]

The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to the following examples. In addition, each physical property described in the Example was measured by the following method.

(1) Elasticity of woven fabric A sample having a width of 5 cm and an effective length of 20 cm is cut out from the woven fabric (the direction to be measured is set to the length direction), and a load of 1.5 kg is applied in the length direction. fabric after partial left reads a length L _a. Reading the length L _b of the fabric after standing for 1 min to remove the load.

The elongation (%) and recovery (%) of the woven fabric are calculated by the following equations. Elongation rate = (L _a -20) / 20 × 100 Recovery rate = {1- (L _b -20) / (L _a -20)}

[Example] Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 and polybutylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.87 were compounded in a ratio of 50:50.
A side-by-side conjugate filament of 0 denier / 24 filament was obtained.

The conjugate filament can exhibit coiled crimp in boiling water, and has a cutting elongation of 14%.
It was 0%.

On the other hand, as component A, polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.63) containing 6% by weight of a polyether ester composed of a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component was used. Using polyethylene terephthalate,
A splittable conjugate fiber having the shape shown in FIG. 1 (however, A and B each had 32 layers and 180 denier / 40 filament) was obtained. The elongation at break of the conjugate fiber was 250%.

Next, the conjugate filament and the splittable conjugate fiber are aligned and supplied to an interlace nozzle, where the overfeed rate is 2% and the pneumatic pressure is 3 kg / cm ^2.
, And a simultaneous twisting process was performed at a false twist speed of 300 m / min, a surface speed of the false twist disk of 600 m / min, a false twist temperature of 140 ° C., and a draw ratio of 1.7 times.

The obtained processed yarn had a two-layer structure in which the conjugate filament was disposed in the core and the composite fiber was disposed in the sheath.

Next, the processed yarn was twisted with S twist of 300 T / m, and a satin woven fabric having a warp cover factor of 2652 and a weft cover factor of 1122 was woven using the warp and the weft.

The woven fabric is relaxed in a caustic soda solution at a concentration of 35 g / l at 100 ° C. to develop crimps of the conjugate filaments and to split the composite fiber. Treated at 300C for 30 minutes.

After drying and raising and dyeing the above-mentioned woven fabric according to a conventional method, the obtained woven fabric has a width of 30% with respect to the greige machine, has a sufficient feeling of squeezing, and has a soft and uniform surface touch. And no staining spots occurred.

Further, the elongation rate of the obtained woven fabric was 20% in both the process and weft directions, and the recovery rate was 90%, showing very good stretchability.

Comparative Example In Example 1, a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament spun at a speed of 3000 m / min (80 denier / 24 filament, elongation at break 140) instead of the conjugate filament
%) Was used in the same manner as in Example 1.

A part of the obtained woven fabric had stained spots, and there was a portion where the surface touch was hardened. Further, the elongation rate was 8% in both the process and the weft, and the recovery rate was 60%.

[0049]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a suede-like woven fabric which is uniform, has excellent ground tightness, and has good stretchability without using a urethane resin, and can be suitably used for various clothing applications. .

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a splittable conjugate fiber.

FIG. 2 is a sectional view showing an example of a sea-island type composite fiber.

[Explanation of symbols]

 A One component constituting the splittable conjugate fiber B The other component constituting the splittable conjugate fiber C Sea component D Island component

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code FI D06M 11/38 D06N 3/00 D06N 3/00 D06M 5/02 F // D06M 101: 32 (72) Inventor Kaoru Asada Osaka 3-4-1, Mihara, Ibaraki-shi Teijin Limited Osaka Research Center (56) Reference JP-A-59-36740 (JP, A) JP-A-63-264965 (JP, A) JP-A-5-44137 ( JP, A) JP-A-3-287841 (JP, A) JP-A-52-18966 (JP, A) JP-A-50-5650 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , (DB name) D03D 15/00 D01F 8/14 D03D 15/04 D03D 15/08 D06M 11/38

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] Claims: 1. A three-dimensional crimp can be developed by heating.
A core-sheath type double-layer structure yarn in which a conjugate filament having a crimp developing ability is arranged in a core portion and a splittable conjugate fiber and / or sea-island type conjugate fiber which can be converted to ultrafine fibers is arranged in a sheath portion is used as a warp. After weaving using the group and / or the weft group, the crimp of the conjugate filament is developed, and at least a part of the splittable conjugate fiber and / or the sea-island conjugate fiber is melted to form an ultrafine fiber. A method for producing a suede-like fabric. 2. A core-sheath type two-layer structure yarn is air-entangled with a conjugate filament and a split type composite fiber and / or a sea-island type composite fiber having a greater elongation than the filament, and then simultaneously drawn false twisted. The method for producing a suede-like fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn is a formed core-sheath type double-layered yarn. 3. The production of a suede-like fabric according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate filament is a conjugate filament in which two kinds of components mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate are combined in a side-by-side type. Method. 4. A splittable conjugate fiber comprising: a polyester having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit;
The method for producing a suede-like woven fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the conjugate fiber is a polyester containing, as a component, a polyester containing 3% by weight or more of a polyether ester comprising a dicarboxylic acid component and a polyoxyalkylene glycol component.