JP3000444B2 - Elastic knitted fabric, innerwear, sportswear and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to an elastic knitted fabric having both good stretchability and recoverability and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, to innerwear (including a foundation) and sportswear (active wear, Leotards).

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Stretch fabrics such as elastic knitted fabrics, and innerwear and sportswear made of such fabrics are well known.

[0003]

However, in recent years,
In particular, it is required that these fabrics follow the movement of the body, that they are easy to put on and take off, that they are comfortable when worn, and that the innerwear is improved in function, such as moderate body shape correction. There is a need for a material with the property. For this reason, the elastic yarn used has been improved, and the manufacturing and knitting conditions have been devised. However, a stretchable fabric having sufficiently satisfactory characteristics has not been obtained.

The present invention is easy to stretch and has good tension force (unload power) at low elongation and high elongation [hereinafter, "tension force (unload power)" is simply referred to as "tension force"] and elongation force. (Hereinafter referred to as “stretching force (load power)” is simply referred to as “stretching force”), and an elastic knitted fabric that retains an appropriate power and has excellent recoverability and a method of manufacturing the same. It will not be provided.

[0005]

The present invention employs the following means to achieve the above object. That is, the elastic knitted fabric of the present invention is an elastic knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn, and the stretchability of the knitted fabric measured according to JIS L-1018 satisfies the following expression. It is characterized by the following.

1 <P ₊₈₀ / P ₋₁₅ ≦ 5 Where, P ₊₈₀ : When the knitted fabric is stretched and contracted three times at an elongation of 80%, the elongation force at the time of the third 80% elongation (g) P- ₁₅ : Tensile force (g) when the knitted fabric is expanded and contracted three times at an elongation of 80% and recovered to 15% in the third expansion and contraction process. Are characterized by at least innerwear or sportswear constituting an elastic part.

Further, according to the method for producing an elastic knitted fabric of the present invention, when producing an elastic knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn, the elastic yarn is given 250% or more elongation in advance.
Then, after performing an elongation recovery process for recovering shrinkage, it is supplied to a knitting machine.

Further, according to the method for producing an elastic knitted fabric of the present invention, when producing an elastic knitted fabric composed of an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn, the elasticity of the elastic yarn is supplied to a needle of a knitting machine. Immediately before, the following expression is satisfied.

0.75 ≦ _{P′- 100} / P ′ _{+ 100} ≦ 1 Preferably, 0.85 ≦ _{P′- 100} / P ′ _{+ 100} ≦ 1, where P ′ _{+ 100} : 100% elongation of the elastic yarn Stretching force (g) when stretched _P'-100 : _Tensile force (g) when the elastic yarn is stretched at an elongation rate of 300% and then recovered to 100%

[0010]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The elastic knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably a warp knitted fabric, but may be a circular knitted fabric or a flat knitted fabric.

The elastic knitted fabric is subjected to elongation recovery processing in the longitudinal direction in the case of warp knitted fabric and in the width direction in the case of circular knitted fabric and flat knitted fabric.

The point of the present invention is that, after the elastic yarn is spun and before knitting, a specific elongation process and a specific shrinkage recovery process are performed in this order, so that the elastic yarn is easily stretched.
Moreover, it is to provide a property that is easily contracted (restored).

Such an elastic yarn is easy to stretch when formed into a knitted fabric in combination with a non-elastic yarn, exhibits good tension and elongation at low elongation and at high elongation, and maintains an appropriate power. In addition, it is possible to provide a stretchable property with excellent stretch recovery. That is, when the knitted fabric has a low elongation, the tension force is moderately high, and even when the knitted fabric is stretched at a high stretch, the tension force and the elongation force do not become too high, and are moderately low. It is to provide something that satisfies the formula.

1 <P ₊₈₀ / P ₋₁₅ ≦ 5 Where, P ₊₈₀ : when the knitted fabric is stretched and contracted three times at an elongation ratio of 80%, the elongation force at the time of the third 80% elongation (g) P _-15 : Tensile force (g) when the knitted fabric is stretched three times at an elongation ratio of 80% and recovered to 15% in the third stretching process.

In the present invention, the elastic characteristic of the elastic knitted fabric is J
It was measured by a measurement method according to IS L 1018, and was measured by the following procedure and method.

The stretching force and the tension force of the knitted fabric are 2.5 cm.
A test piece of × 16.0 cm is taken in the length direction in the warp knitted fabric, and in the width direction in the circular knitted fabric and the flat knitted fabric, and the test piece is 2.5 cm in upper grip width, 3.5 cm in lower grip width, and the tension interval. Attach to a constant speed elongation type tensile tester as 10.0 cm,
An elongation of 80% is set and the elongation and recovery are repeated three times at a speed of 30 ± 2 cm / min. The elongation force (g) at the time of 80% elongation and the tension force (g) at the time of 15% recovery in the third time Is read and an average of N = 2 is obtained.

Representative elastic yarns used in the present invention include polyurethane-based and polyetherester-based elastic yarns. Such elastic yarn is not limited to any kind or type.

According to the results of a more detailed study of the polyether type polyurethane elastic fiber, compared with the most typical polymer containing polytetramethylene glycol as a polyol component, 3-methyltetrahydrofuran and tetrahydrofuran were subjected to ring-opening copolymerization. It was confirmed that, in the polymer containing the copolyether polyol as a polyol component, the higher the degree of polymerization of the copolyether polyol, the more excellent the effect of the elongation recovery treatment and the stability of the effect.

The elastic knitted fabric of the present invention composed of the elastic yarn specified here is more easily stretched, exhibits better tension and elongation at low elongation and high elongation, maintains an appropriate power, and It is recognized that the recoverability is more excellent, and furthermore, the above-mentioned reduction in the stretching properties due to repeated stretching and heat treatment is small.

According to the method of the present invention for producing an elastic yarn constituting a knitted fabric, the elastic yarn is stretched by 250% (3.5 times) or more, and then the elongation is restored, thereby improving the stretchability. , And knitted fabric using the elastic yarn.

The above elongation is preferably not more than 500% (6.0 times). Further, in order to perform such elongation, specifically, a method of drafting between two pairs of nip rollers is preferably adopted, but the method is not limited to this as long as the drafting means is used.

In the above description, the shrinkage recovery rate is 130
% Is preferably employed. In addition, the contraction recovery rate here refers to the elongation rate when the elastic yarn is brought into a state of an elongation rate lower than the elongation rate given in advance.

In the case of a warp knitted fabric, such elongation recovery processing is most preferably performed in a warp knitting and warping step. That is, in this process, the elastic yarn sending roller provided on the creel of the warping machine and the pre-stretch roller provided immediately before the beam winding device are changed in rotation speed, so that the elastic yarn sending roller and the pre-stretch roller are rotated. A pre-stretch of 75% to 175% is usually provided between the stretch roller and the stretch roller. The purpose of this is to improve the releasability of the elastic yarn from the wound body.

According to the present invention, in this pre-stretch zone,
The device is modified so that a higher pre-stretch ratio can be applied, and the elastic yarn is subjected to a stretching treatment of 250% or more. At this time, if the elongation is less than 250%, the effect of modifying the elasticity of the elastic yarn is small, and it merely improves the releasability of the elastic yarn from the wound body.

When the elongation rate is higher than 500%, the elongation force can be greatly reduced in the elasticity of the elastic yarn, but at the same time, the strain is increased and the recoverability is deteriorated.

After giving such an extension to the elastic yarn, between the pre-stretch roller and the beam winding device,
The elastic yarn is preferably subjected to a shrinkage recovery of 50 to 130%. At this time, if the shrinkage recovery rate is lower than 50%, the elastic yarn may sag, lean to the adjacent elastic yarn, break the elastic yarn, or cause uneven tension in the elastic yarn. Also,
At a shrinkage recovery rate higher than 130%, the elastic yarn is wound tightly around the beam, and the yarn separating property of the elastic yarn from the beam is reduced during knitting, and the elastic yarn pulls the beam more strongly. The beam intensity may be lost.

According to the present invention, by using the above-described elastic yarn, the elastic knitted fabric is easily stretched, exhibits good tension and stretching force at low elongation and high elongation, maintains an appropriate power, and It is capable of providing elasticity with excellent recovery properties.

In the present invention, the elastic yarn elongation recovery processing is also achieved in a processed yarn manufacturing step, for example, a covering processing step. In case of covering yarn, the draft is 2
In the first stage, the above two steps are performed.
A draft of at least 50%, preferably 250% to 500%, is applied to provide elongation, then contraction and recovery, and then a conventional covering draft is applied to the textured yarn in a second stage.

Next, the elongation recovery processing is also achieved in the warp knitting step. The elongation recovery process is performed before supplying to the knitting guide of the knitting machine in the warp knitting process. For example, extension may be provided between the nip roller and the beam set before supply to the knitting guide, and then contraction recovery may be performed between the nip roller and the needle.

Further, the elongation recovery processing is also achieved in the step of winding the elastic yarn. For example, the above-mentioned draft of 250% or more, preferably 250% to 500% is applied between the first feed roll and the second feed roll in the spinning-up step of the elastic yarn to provide elongation,
Next, shrinkage recovery of preferably 20% or less is performed between the second feed roll and the drive roll, and the roll is wound around a paper tube.

Further, the elongation recovery processing can be achieved also in the step of rewinding the elastic yarn. For example, a nip roller is provided between the delivery roller and the take-up roller in the rewinding step of the elastic yarn, and elongation is provided between the delivery roller and the nip roller, and then, between the nip roller and the take-up roller. This is a method in which recovery from shrinkage is performed, and the paper is wound around a paper tube again.

As described above, the elastic knitted fabric of the present invention has 80% of the tension (P _-15 ) when the knitted fabric recovers by 15%.
It is characterized in that the ratio of the elongation force (P ₊₈₀ ) during elongation is in the range of more than 1 and 5 or less, preferably in the range of 3.5 or more and 5 or less.

When the innerwear or sportswear is constituted by such an elastic knitted fabric, the innerwear and the sportswear can be easily attached and detached, and can be extended and stretched in accordance with the expansion and contraction of the body during intense exercise. An excellent product that does not give a feeling of oppression can be provided.

In addition, the present invention provides a specific elongation and a specific shrinkage recovery between the elastic yarn after spinning and knitting, and more specifically, after spinning and before the elastic yarn is fed to the knitting machine needle. In this case, the elastic yarn can be easily stretched without impairing the contraction (restoring) force of the elastic yarn.

Such an elastic yarn has a characteristic that is excellent in elongation recovery property in which a difference between an elongation force and a tension force is small. Quantitatively speaking, immediately before being supplied to the needle of the knitting machine,
Any elastic yarn having an elastic property satisfying the following expression may be used. That is, 0.75≤P'- ₁₀₀ / P ' _{+ 100≤1} .

Preferably, 0.85≤P'- ₁₀₀ / P '
_{+ 100} ≦ 1.

[0037] Here, P _'+100: Represents extension force when the elastic yarn was stretched 100% (g), P' _-100: extended elastic yarns at elongation of 300%, up to thereafter 100% It represents the force (g) at the time of recovery.

FIG. 1 is a graph showing an example of the expansion and contraction characteristics of the elastic yarn. The broken line is a graph showing the expansion and contraction characteristics of the first cycle when the elastic yarn is expanded to 300% and recovered, and the solid line is a solid line. It is a graph which shows the expansion-contraction characteristic of the 2nd cycle. As is clear from FIG. 1, the second cycle starts at the second cycle.
It can be understood that the hysteresis is smaller in the cycle, that is, in the expansion / contraction characteristics after the elongation recovery processing is performed once.

In the present invention, the elasticity of the elastic yarn is _{0.75≤P'- 100} / P ' _{+ 100≤1} , but the hysteresis of the elastic yarn is small, and a value closer to 1 is better. . In general, the hysteresis of the elastic yarn decreases as the number of times of the elongation recovery process increases, for example, as the number of cycles increases from the first cycle to the second cycle and further to the third cycle,
Although the value is close to 1, the present invention shows a value close to 1 in the first measurement.

That is, the present invention proposes that the elastic yarn is subjected to elongation recovery processing in advance to improve the elastic yarn to a yarn having a small hysteresis and then supplied to the knitting process.

In the present invention, the elastic properties of the elastic yarn are measured by the following method.

The elongation force and the tension force of the elastic yarn are set to a sample length of 5
1 cm of elastic yarn is stretched from 0% to 300% once at a constant speed of 50 cm / min using a tensile tester, and the stretching force at 100% elongation and the tension at 100% recovery The force was read and determined by averaging N = 15.

The elastic yarn obtained by the elongation recovery process is subjected to an elongation force (P ' _{+ 100} ) at the time of 100% elongation of the elastic yarn immediately before being supplied to the needle of the knitting machine in the production process of the elastic knitted fabric. It is characterized in that the ratio of the tension (P'- ₁₀₀ ) at the time of 100% recovery after elongation at 300% to 0.75 to 0.75, preferably 0.85 to 1.

[0044]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Example 1, Comparative Example 1 An example in which the elongation recovery processing according to the present invention is performed in the pre-stretch zone of the warp knitting and warping step will be described below. (Thread usage) Polyurethane elastic yarn: "Lycra" (registered trademark) manufactured by DuPont, type 902 clear yarn, 360 denier Inelastic yarn: nylon manufactured by Toray Industries, type 108, 5
0 denier (warping machine) River Expander 23-560 manufactured by River Co. However, the pulley and the timing belt for changing the pre-stretch were modified so that 210% or more of the pre-stretch could be applied. Shrinkage recovery rate (beam winding stretch): 75% Speed: 50 m / min (Knitting machine) Russell knitting machine RSE 4N 56GG manufactured by KARL MAYER The elastic warp knitted fabric obtained in Example 1 and the elastic warp knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 were measured for expansion and contraction characteristics in the warp direction (vertical direction). FIG. 2 is a graph showing the relationship between the elongation (horizontal axis), the elongation force, and the tension force (represented by the power of the vertical axis) in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

Table 2 shows the results of measuring the elasticity of the elastic yarn obtained in Example 1 immediately before it was supplied to the needle of the knitting machine.

[0046]

[Table 1] ★

[0047]

[Table 2] * Example 2, Comparative Example 2 An example in which the elongation recovery processing according to the present invention is performed in a stretch zone provided between a beam of a knitting machine and a knitting guide will be described. (Thread use) Polyurethane elastic yarn: "Lycra" (registered trademark) type 902 clear yarn, 360 denier, manufactured by DuPont Inelastic yarn: nylon, type 108, 5 manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.
0 denier (warping machine) River Expander 23-560 (warping condition) Number of yarns: 584 Threads Prestretch: 125% Beam winding stretch: 75% Speed: 50 m / min (Knitting machine) KARL MAYER Russell knitting machine RSE 4N 56GG However, two nip rollers were attached between the beam of the knitting machine and the knitting guide so that the elongation recovery processing according to the present invention was applied to the elastic yarn. The nip roller on the beam side was a first nip roller, and the nip roller on the knitting guide was a second nip roller. (Elongation) The rotation speed of the first nip roller was adjusted so that the elastic yarn wound in a state of being extended by 75% on the beam was extended by 300%. (Example 2) The rotation speed of the first nip roller was adjusted so that the elastic yarn wound 75% on the beam was supplied to the knitting guide as it was. (Comparative Example 2) (Recovery of shrinkage) The second elastic roller was stretched between the first nip roller and the second nip roller such that the elongation rate of the elastic yarn became 75%.
The rotation speed of the nip roller was adjusted. Table 3 shows the results obtained by measuring the warp-direction stretch characteristics of the elastic warp knitted fabric obtained in Example 2 and the elastic warp knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2.

Table 4 shows the results obtained by measuring the elastic properties of the elastic yarn obtained in Example 2 immediately before it was supplied to the needle of a knitting machine.

[0049]

[Table 3] ★

[0050]

[Table 4] * Example 3, Example 4, Comparative Example 3 An example in which the elongation recovery processing according to the present invention is performed in the elastic yarn rewinding step will be described.

A nip roller is set between the delivery roller and the take-up roller in the rewinding process, the extension is performed between the delivery roller and the nip roller, and then the contraction recovery is performed between the nip roller and the take-up roller. This is an example of a method of rewinding a paper tube again.

Elastic yarn: polyurethane elastic yarn "Lycra" (registered trademark) manufactured by DuPont, type 902, clear yarn, 560 denier elongation recovery treatment Elongation rate: 300% (Example 3), 450% (Example 4) , 8% (Comparative Example 3) The rotation speed of the roller was set so that the elongation rate of the elastic yarn was 300% between the feed roller and the nip roller. (Example 3) The rotation speed of the roller was set between the feed roller and the nip roller so that the elongation rate of the elastic yarn became 450%. (Example 4) The rotation speed of the roller was set so that the elongation rate of the elastic yarn was 0% between the feed roller and the nip roller. (Comparative Example 3) Shrinkage recovery rate: 10% The rotation speed of the roller was set between the nip roller and the winding roller such that the elongation rate of the elastic yarn became 10%, and the yarn was wound around a paper tube.

Winding speed: 200 m / min. Table 5 shows the results of measuring the elasticity of the elastic yarn obtained in Example 3 and the elastic yarn obtained in Comparative Example 3. Table 6 shows the results obtained by measuring the warp-direction stretch characteristics of the elastic warp knitted fabric obtained in Example 4.

[0054]

[Table 5] ★

[0055]

[Table 6] ★ In the above embodiment, the elasticity of the elastic
It was measured by a measuring method according to L1018, and was measured by the following procedure and method. (1) Stretching force and tension force of the knitted fabric are 2.5 cm x 1
A test piece of 6.0 cm was taken in the length direction, and the test piece was attached to a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester with an upper grip width of 2.5 cm, a lower grip width of 3.5 cm, and a tensile interval of 10.0 cm, and 80% The elongation was set, and the elongation recovery was repeated three times at a rate of 30 ± 2 cm / min.
The 30%, 50%, 80% elongation force (g) and recovery tension (g) were read and the average of N = 2 was determined. (2) The stretch of the knitted fabric is performed in the same manner as the stretching force and the tension force of the knitted fabric, by attaching the test piece to a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester and operating the machine at a speed of 30 ± 2 cm / min. 25
Apply a load of Kgf, load 1.0Kgf, 1.5Kg
f, the elongation of 2.25 Kgf was measured, and the average value of N = 2 was obtained.

In the above examples, the elasticity of the elastic yarn was measured by the following procedure and method. (3) The elasticity of the elastic yarn was measured at a constant value of 50 cm / min by using one polyurethane-based elastic yarn having a sample length of 5 cm using an Instron tensile tester (Universal Material Tester Model 4501 manufactured by Instron Japan Co., Ltd.). One elongation from 0% to 300% at a speed, 100%, 200%,
Elongation (g) and tension (g) at 300% were read and averaged for N = 15.

As can be seen from the above examples, the pre-stretch ratio in the warping step was set to 300%, and the elastic yarn was stretched.
Thereafter, when the beam is retracted and recovered to a stretch ratio of 75% (Example), the pre-stretch ratio is set to 125.
%, The elastic yarn is stretched, and then the contraction and recovery of the beam winding stretch rate to 75% (comparative example) are compared. ) Was high. That is, it is understood that the knitted fabric obtained in the example is a stretchable fabric. Further, the elongation force (length direction) of the example was a low value, and the tension force (length direction) was a high value. That is, the knitted fabric obtained in the example has a moderately high tension force at low elongation,
It can be seen that the fabric has an appropriate stretching force and tension that is not too high even at the time of high elongation.

The foundation and the leotard were sewn with this fabric. This foundation and leotard stretch and stretch to fit the body's movements, and even when the fabric is stretched or shrunk, it has an excellent feeling of uncomfortable oppression and tension despite having moderate tension. It had elastic properties.

[0059]

According to the present invention, it is easy to stretch, has a moderately high tension force at low elongation, has a moderate elongation force and tension force that is not too high even at high elongation, and has a stiffness even at high elongation. It can provide an elastic ground with excellent restoring force without
When making innerwear and sportswear with such fabrics, it fits the movement of the body and expands and contracts, and even when the fabric is stretched and contracted, it has a moderate tension, and uncomfortable feeling of pressure and An object without a sense of tension can be provided.

The effects of the present invention are summarized and shown in Table 7.

[0061]

[Table 7] ★

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a graph showing an example of the elastic properties of an elastic yarn.

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the expansion and contraction characteristics of an elastic warp knitted fabric in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic knitting structure diagram of an elastic warp knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: Inelastic yarn 2: Elastic yarn

Claims (15)

(57) [Claims] An elastic knitted fabric comprising an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn, wherein the knitted fabric has a stretch characteristic measured according to JIS L-1018 satisfying the following expression. Elastic knitted fabric. 1 <P ₊₈₀ / P ₋₁₅ ≦ 5 Where, P ₊₈₀ : When the knitted fabric is stretched and contracted three times at an elongation of 80%, the elongation force (g) at the third 80% elongation P _{− 15} : Tensile force (g) when the knitted fabric is expanded and contracted three times at an elongation of 80% and recovered to 15% in the third expansion and contraction process 2. The elastic knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic knitted fabric is a warp knitted fabric. 3. An innerwear wherein the elastic knitted fabric according to claim 1 forms at least a stretchable portion. 4. Sportswear wherein the elastic knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2 constitutes at least a stretchable portion. 5. When producing a knitted fabric comprising an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn, the elastic yarn is subjected to elongation recovery of at least 250% in advance, and then subjected to elongation recovery treatment for contraction recovery, and then to knitting. A method for producing an elastic knitted fabric, which is supplied to a machine. 6. The method for producing an elastic knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the elongation percentage is 500% or less. 7. The method for producing an elastic knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein a shrinkage recovery rate is in a range of 130% or less. 8. The elastic knit according to claim 5, wherein the elongation recovery processing is performed in a stretch zone provided between a spinneret of the elastic yarn and a winding step. The method of manufacturing the ground. 9. The method according to claim 5, wherein the elongation recovery processing is performed in a stretch zone provided between the feed roller and the take-up roller in the elastic yarn rewinding step. Manufacturing method of elastic knitted fabric. 10. The stretch recovery process is performed in a pre-stretch zone of a warp knitting and warping step.
8. The method for producing an elastic knitted fabric according to any one of claims 7 to 7. 11. The elastic knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the elongation recovery processing is performed in a stretch zone provided between the beam of the warp knitting machine and the knitting guide. Manufacturing method. 12. When manufacturing an elastic knitted fabric composed of a covered elastic yarn in which an elastic yarn is covered with an inelastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, the elastic yarn supplied by the elongation recovery processing to the covering processing step. The method for producing an elastic knitted fabric according to any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein the elastic knitted fabric is covered with an inelastic yarn. 13. A method of manufacturing a knitted fabric comprising an elastic yarn and a non-elastic yarn, wherein the elastic yarn satisfies the following expression immediately before the elastic yarn is supplied to a needle of a knitting machine. Manufacturing method of elastic knitted fabric. 0.75 ≦ P ′ _-100 / P ′ ₊₁₀₀ ≦ 1 Here, P ′ ₊₁₀₀ : the elongation force when the elastic yarn is elongated by 100% (g) P ′ _-100 : The elastic yarn is stretched to 300% Tension at the time of elongation and recovery to 100% (g) 14. The method for producing an elastic knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the elastic yarn is a polyurethane elastic yarn. 15. An elastic yarn comprising a polyurethane elastomer, wherein the polyol component comprises tetrahydrofuran and 3-hydrofuran.
The method for producing an elastic knitted fabric according to any one of claims 5 to 13, which is a copolyether polyol with alkyltetrahydrofuran.