JP3019982B2 - Stretch adhesive interlining and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

Description: TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a soft, lightweight, stretchable adhesive interlining which is excellent in followability to a dress material and shape retention of the clothing, and is excellent in shape. .

[Conventional technology]

As one of the constituent materials of clothes, interlining is indispensable, but in order to rationalize and improve the efficiency of sewing sewing work, a so-called adhesive interlining is obtained by attaching a thermoplastic resin to the surface of the base cloth. Is commonly used. The adhesive interlining is superimposed on the outer surface of the clothing and heat-pressed to join it with the outer material.Therefore, it is not necessary to sew the interlining to the outer material, which is considered to be extremely difficult in the sewing process of clothing. The speed of sewing has been greatly increased.

However, when this adhesive interlining is joined to the outer fabric to form a joined body, there is a large difference between the outer fabric and the dimensional change due to the influence of heat, water, etc. Often, "wrinkles" occur in clothes, and the joints with the outer material are peeled off, causing "bloating" in the clothes, often losing the commercial value of the clothes. Therefore,
When washing clothes and dry cleaning, heat,
It is extremely complicated in work management, such as checking the state of shrinkage due to water by a preliminary test.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, elastic adhesive interlining, which can well follow the dimensional change of the outer material in a joint with the outer material, has been conventionally proposed.

For example, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 60-45636 discloses a fabric woven using a coated elastic yarn obtained by coating a so-called elastic yarn having inherent elasticity such as polyurethane with an inelastic yarn such as cotton as a base fabric. Adhesive interlining has been proposed.

JP-A-63-235509 proposes an adhesive interlining having a laminate of a polyurethane elastic fiber nonwoven fabric and a knitted fabric as a base fabric. However, any of these proposals has drawbacks in its manufacturing process or suitability as an interlining, and is not sufficiently satisfactory.

That is, in the former, the woven fabric is woven using elastic yarn. However, handling of the elastic yarn is not easy, and the weaving operation involves difficulty.

Therefore, for example, it is very difficult to provide various types of woven fabrics having different weaving designs, and it is extremely difficult to provide a base fabric that can cope with various demands for an adhesive interlining having different physical properties. At the same time, even if weaving is performed, a large investment for equipment is required, and the weaving efficiency is low, and uniform weaving is difficult.

In the case where the former woven fabric is used as a base fabric, it is difficult to set an EMT value by a target KES method in a processing step as an adhesive interlining, and as an adhesive interlining,
Some have excessive or inadequate elasticity, leaving problems in the ability to follow the dimensional change of the outer material and also in the shape retention of clothes. The lamination process between the nonwoven fabric and the knitted fabric is complicated, and the elasticity of the obtained adhesive interlining is limited. Depending on the degree of stretching, the nonwoven fabric may be ruptured. Furthermore, since the nonwoven fabric is used as a material, the shear characteristic value (G value according to the KES method) becomes large.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The present invention, in the state of being joined to the outer material, is extremely excellent in following the dimensional change of the outer material, moreover, lightweight, soft stretchable adhesive interlining, these following, lightness,
It is an object of the present invention to accurately provide various stretchable adhesive interlinings having different softness as required.

[Means for solving the problem]

The present invention uses a polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn which exhibits elasticity by heat treatment (hereinafter referred to as an elasticity developing yarn) or a coated elasticity developing yarn obtained by coating an elasticity developing yarn with an inelastic fiber in a state where no elasticity is developed. An object of the present invention is to provide an excellent elastic adhesive interlining by attaching a thermoplastic resin to an elastic woven fabric obtained by weaving a woven fabric and then heat-treating the woven fabric to exhibit elasticity.

That is, the present invention uses the elasticity developing yarn as the woven yarn of the woven fabric while not expressing the elasticity, and first obtains a non-stretchable woven fabric. Next, the woven fabric is subjected to a heat treatment to develop elasticity in the elasticity developing yarn to form a stretchable woven fabric. The stretchable woven fabric is used as a base fabric, and a thermoplastic resin is adhered to the stretchable woven fabric by an appropriate method. Is completed.

The form of attachment of the thermoplastic resin to the base cloth can be appropriately designed, but usually, it is often attached in the form of dots of a certain size or double dots. In general, as the thermoplastic resin, ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer, polyamide,
Polyester, polyethylene and the like are used.

As the adhesion amount within a range not to impair the properties of the base fabric better 8~25g / m ^2, particularly preferably 12~18g / m ^2.

The base fabric of the stretchable adhesive interlining of the present invention, as described above, after weaving the woven fabric, heat-treats the woven fabric to impart elasticity to the woven yarn. Depending on the blending ratio of the elasticity-expressing yarn in the weft, and the setting of the heat treatment conditions, the stretch ratio of the stretchable fabric obtained, or
It is possible to freely control the LT value etc. by the KES method, and it is also possible to freely provide various woven fabrics such as plain weave, twill weave, coarse elastic woven fabric base cloth, thin elastic woven fabric base fabric, or
It is also possible to provide a bidirectionally stretchable woven fabric having elasticity in both the vertical and horizontal directions.

As described above, instead of using the original elastic yarn, the present invention woven the woven fabric using a so-called elasticity developing yarn that develops elasticity for the first time by heat treatment, thereby giving stretchability in the state of the woven fabric. Is made possible.

In the present invention, there are cases where the elasticity developing yarn is used alone and cases where these elasticity developing yarns are covered with inelastic fibers and used as the coated elasticity developing yarn. With this coating, the dyeability and the feeling of the fabric are improved. In this case, cotton, rayon, polynosic, wool, polyester or the like is used as the coating fiber.

In addition, when weaving, the elasticity developing yarn or the coated elasticity developing yarn may be used 100% as the warp and / or the weft, or may be mixed with other yarns. The ratio of the coated elasticity developing yarn is
In any case, more than 25% is required. If it is less than 25%, a stretchable fabric that can achieve the object of the present invention cannot be obtained.

The heat treatment in the present invention can be a method of passing through a heating zone or a method of immersing in hot water, and the method is not particularly limited.

In the present invention, at the time of heat treatment of the woven fabric, as described above, the EMT value of the stretchable woven fabric obtained by the KES method and the LT by the KES method of the obtained stretchable woven fabric depend on the setting of the processing conditions.
The value can be set variously according to the requirements. The stretchable adhesive core is the case where the LT value of the KES method is set to 0.7 or less with 6-50% in either direction or both directions after the EMT value by the KES method. Most preferable as the base fabric.

The KES method is a wind measurement system developed by the Japan Textile Machinery Society's Wind Total Volume and Standardization Committee.
The non-linearity of the tensile properties calculated from the load-elongation curve measured in the tensile test is shown, and the EMT value indicates the elongation under a load of 500 g / cm.

[Action and effect]

In an elastic adhesive interlining, an elastic fabric is usually used as a base cloth, and the physical properties of the base cloth are important as affecting the performance and quality of the elastic adhesive interlining.

This base fabric is usually woven with elastic yarn,
Stretchy yarns are difficult to handle during the weaving process,
Further, in this weaving process, it is extremely difficult to accurately show physical properties such as expansion and contraction ratio as required in the woven fabric.

The stretchable base fabric used for the stretchable adhesive interlining of the present invention is intended to impart elasticity to the fabric at a later stage after weaving. Can be set appropriately as appropriate.

Therefore, the present invention can provide stretchable adhesive interlinings having various physical properties and can meet various demands for interlinings for clothes.

As one of the base fabrics used for the stretchable adhesive interlining of the present invention, an elastic fabric woven with polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarns is used. Features excellent heat resistance during sewing. Furthermore, it is possible to provide a stretchable woven fabric having physical properties such as thickness, softness, and weight according to demand. Therefore, the stretchable adhesive interlining based on this stretchable woven fabric has a good ability to follow the dimensional change of the outer surface of the garment, and also has an excellent effect in terms of shape retention of the garment. is there.

〔Example〕

Example 1. As a warp, 50 denier polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn was arranged at 50 yarns / inch, and as a weft yarn, a 35th cotton yarn was arranged at 40 yarns / inch, and a plain woven fabric having a thickness of 0.24 mm was woven. . The plain fabric was subjected to desizing and bleaching treatment, dyeing, and soft finishing, and in the desizing and refining treatment, polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn was made to exhibit elasticity to obtain a stretchable plain fabric.

At the stage of giving elasticity, EMT value by KES method is 25%
And the LT value by the KES method was set to 0.6 or less.

By the above, on one side of the obtained stretchable plain fabric, a polyamide-based thermoplastic resin is attached in a dot shape,
An elastic adhesive interlining was obtained. This dot density is 200pcs / inch
² , and the adhesion amount was 17 g / m ² .

The obtained elastic adhesive interlining is 0.32 mm thick and weighs 75 g /
A m ^2, and the stress when stretched 20% in the warp direction, 500 g
/ cm, the recovery after the elongation was 35%, which was extremely weighing, soft and excellent elasticity.

Next, when this elastic adhesive interlining was joined to a 50% polyester outer material for summer and a 100% wool outer material for winter to form a joined body, it was able to follow the dimensional change of the outer material,
And the shape retention of the clothes was very good.

Example 2 As the warp, a core elasticity of 50 denier polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn used in Example 1 was used as a core yarn, and a coated elasticity developing yarn of the 60th yarn was used. Using cotton thread, the number of shots is 68 x 28 / inc
Using the plain woven fabric of h as a base fabric, stretchability was imparted thereto, and then a thermoplastic resin was adhered in the same manner as in the example to obtain a stretchable adhesive interlining. The obtained elastic adhesive interlining is 0.33 mm thick,
A weight 67 g / m ^2, stress when elongated by 15% in the warp direction, the recovery rate after 500 g / cm same elongation is 35%, very, intended excellent stretchability lightweight, soft there were.

Next, this stretchable adhesive interlining is joined to a summer outer material made of 50% polyester and 50% wool and a winter outer material made of 100% wool, respectively, to form a joined body. The shape was very good.

Example 3. As the warp, the coated elasticity developing yarn of No. 60 used in Example 2 was used, and as the weft, a 60-denier polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn was used.
h and woven to obtain a plain fabric. This plain woven fabric was subjected to desizing and bleaching treatment, dyeing, and soft finishing treatment. In the desizing and smelting and bleaching treatment, elasticity was developed to obtain a stretchable plain fabric.

This stretchable plain fabric has an EMT value of 20% in the warp direction and 20% in the weft direction by the KES method, and an LT value of 0.6 in the KES method.
The biaxially stretchable woven fabric was as follows.

On one side of the bidirectional stretch fabric obtained above,
A polyamide-based thermoplastic resin was attached in the form of dots.

The dot density is 300 pcs / inch ² and the adhesion amount is 1
It was 5 g / m ² .

The obtained elastic adhesive interlining is 0.36 mm thick and weighs 72 g /
m ^2, and the stress when stretched 15% in the warp direction 500 g / cm
Width, recovery rate after stretching is 45%, stress when stretched 18% in the weft direction is 500g / cm, recovery rate after stretching is 40%, lightweight, soft and excellent in both directions. Sex.

Next, this stretchable adhesive interlining was joined with a summer 50% polyester wool 50% wool and a 100% wool winter wool, respectively, to form a joined body. The shape retention was very good.

Comparative Example A 60th cotton yarn was arranged at 68 yarns / inch as a warp, and a 40th cotton yarn was arranged at 32 yarns / inch as a weft, and the thickness was 0.25 m.
m plain weave. This plain fabric was subjected to desizing, bleaching, dyeing and soft finishing.

A polyamide-based thermoplastic resin was adhered to one surface of the plain fabric in a dot-like manner. This dot density is 340 / inch ²
And the amount of adhesion was 16 g / m ² .

The obtained adhesive interlining had a thickness of 0.30 mm and a weight of 62 g / m ² . Next, this adhesive interlining is made of polyester 50% wool 50%
After joining with the summer surface material and the winter surface material made of 100% wool, respectively, the jointability was not satisfactory.

Table 1 shows the followability of the joined body in Examples and Comparative Examples.
The results are shown in Table 2. In the comparative example, while the elongation rate of the outer material is greatly reduced by joining the interlining, the shear hardness value and the bending hardness value are also considerably higher. In the material used (Example 1.2.3), the elongation rate hardly decreased even by joining the interlining, and the shear hardness value and the bending hardness value were also in good ranges. The effect of interlining is clear.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Kazuhiko Yamada 2-16-8 Nishiki, Naka-ku, Nagoya-shi, Aichi Examiner at Hattori Takeshi Co., Ltd. Examiner Yoshio Nishikawa (56) References JP-A-62-97937 (JP) , A) (58) Fields studied (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) A41D 27/06 D03D 1/00

Claims (8)

(57) [Claims] 1. An elastic woven fabric comprising polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarns which exhibit elasticity by heat treatment for all or a part of the warp and / or weft yarns, and one side of an elastic woven fabric having the yarns exhibiting elasticity. A stretchable adhesive interlining, to which a thermoplastic resin is attached. 2. The stretchable adhesive core according to claim 1, wherein an elastic woven fabric is used in which polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarns exhibiting elasticity by heat treatment are mixed at a ratio of at least 25% of warp and at least 25% of weft. Earth. 3. The KE in either the longitudinal or the weft direction or in both directions.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the EMT value according to the S method is 6 to 50% and the LT value according to the KES method is 0.7 or less.
Item 10. The stretchable adhesive interlining according to any one of the above items. 4. A woven fabric formed by using, in an inelastic state, polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarns which exhibit elasticity by heat treatment on all or a part of warps and / or weft yarns, and heat-treat the woven fabric. A method for producing a stretchable adhesive interlining, characterized in that an elastic woven fabric is formed by applying a thermoplastic resin to one surface of the elastic woven fabric. 5. A structure in which a polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn exhibiting elasticity by heat treatment is used as a core yarn, and a coated yarn obtained by coating the core yarn with an inelastic fiber is used as all or a part of a warp and / or a weft. A stretchable adhesive interlining, wherein a thermoplastic resin is attached to one surface of an elastic woven fabric in which elasticity is exhibited in the covering yarn. 6. The stretchable interlining according to claim 5, wherein an elastic woven fabric is used in which the covering yarn is mixed at a ratio of not less than 25% of warp and not less than 25% of weft. 7. The KE in either the longitudinal direction or the lateral direction or in both directions.
The stretchable adhesive interlining according to claim 6, wherein the EMT value according to the S method is 6 to 50% and the LT value according to the KES method is 0.7 or less. 8. A woven fabric comprising, as a core yarn, a polybutylene terephthalate fiber yarn exhibiting elasticity by heat treatment, and a coated yarn obtained by coating the core yarn with an inelastic fiber, as a whole or a part of a warp and / or a weft. A method for producing a stretchable adhesive interlining, characterized in that a heat treatment is performed to develop elasticity of the garment yarn to form an elastic woven fabric, and then a thermoplastic resin is adhered to one surface of the elastic woven fabric.