JP3066231B2 - Polyester multifilament yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament yarn. In detail, the thick and small spots are randomly and variably distributed throughout the yarn in a short cycle, and as a result,
Has a natural surface effect, appearance, texture, etc. that is not artificial,
In addition, the present invention relates to a so-called melange-like polyester multifilament yarn having a very natural heather-like color, which is dispersed and present in three or more levels when dyed, and a cloth made of the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester multifilament yarns are characterized by a high degree of uniformity, but when turned upside down, they have little change, have artificial coldness, and are flat when woven or knitted. The color tone is not deep and the texture tends to be inferior.

[0003] In order to improve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the polyester multifilament yarn and provide the polyester multifilament yarn with a spun yarn-like appearance and feeling, portions having different yarn diameters in the length direction are provided. Various so-called thick and thin yarns have been developed, and this yarn is usually obtained by drawing an undrawn yarn of polyester at a low draw ratio. This thick and thin yarn is composed of a thick dyed unstretched portion with a large yarn diameter and a light-colored stretched portion with a small yarn diameter. It has a problem that it is easy to be caused, and it is excessively hardened to deteriorate the feeling. In addition, the unstretched part of the deep dyeing and the stretched part of the light dyeing are located at the same position of the yarn along the length direction of the yarn, so that the heather tone becomes extremely strong and a natural heather tone is obtained. Has the disadvantage that it cannot be performed.

As a method for solving the above-mentioned drawbacks of thick and thin yarn, (1) an undrawn portion of 3 cm or less is randomly left in the length direction of each filament constituting a polyester multifilament yarn. At least three undrawn portions are dispersed and present per 10 cm in the length direction of the multifilament yarn (Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-72).
No. 07), (2) Undrawn multifilament yarn in which inorganic particles having an average particle size of 0.9 to 1.8 μ are uniformly dispersed at a ratio of 0.5 to 2.5% by weight is drawn unevenly. (3) a single fiber containing 1% by weight or more of titanium oxide and having a fineness ratio of 2 or more;
A multifilament yarn in which the value P50 of a cycle of ₅₀ cm on a spectrograph in a normal test is 0.5 or less of the maximum value Pmax of the cycle (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. Sho 62).
-85021) and the like.

[0005] However, in the multifilament yarn (1), although the undrawn portion is randomly present in the filament, it is as if the undrawn portion overlaps in the whole yarn and there is a long spot. It becomes a strong heather tone, and the diversification of spots necessary to express a natural heather tone is insufficient, and it is not satisfactory enough.

Further, in the multifilament yarn of the above (2), a high-count yarn having a fine single fiber fineness, for example, a polyester yarn having a single fiber fineness of 1 denier (about 10 μm in diameter)
In the case of the above, the average particle size of the inorganic fine particles is 0.9 to 1.8 μm.
It has the drawback that yarn breakage occurs frequently during spinning and drawing due to its large m.On the other hand, in the case of yarn having a large single-fiber fineness, the amount of inorganic fine particles is small and dispersion of the drawing point does not easily occur. It becomes a long heather tone and does not become a natural heather tone. Moreover, irrespective of the size of the single fiber fineness, the amount of the inorganic fine particles added is small, so that the yarn cannot be provided with drapability.

In the multifilament yarn (3), undrawn portions are randomly present in each filament constituting the yarn, and the degree of dispersion of the undrawn portion is smaller than that in the filament yarn (1). Although improved, when such filaments are aggregated into yarn, the undrawn portion is averaged within the yarn, and the diversification of the spots necessary for expressing a natural heather is still inadequate. Is enough.

In addition, the multifilament yarns of the above (1) to (3) generally have only two levels of shading after dyeing, and the color difference ΔL between the deeply dyed portion and the lightly dyed portion is low. Since it is about 10 at the maximum, the color tone is also monotonous, and a so-called melange tone cannot be obtained.

[0009]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a natural and natural spun yarn having a diversified spot without excessively strong or too weak heather. A polyester multifilament yarn having a melange-like surface effect having a heather-like surface effect having a good depth, an appearance and a feeling, and having three or more levels of shading when dyed, and having a large difference in shading. An object of the present invention is to provide a fabric comprising the same.

[0010]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have repeatedly studied to solve the above problems. As a result, a polyester filament having a fine spot containing 4 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle diameter of 0.9 μm or less and a polyester filament having a thick spot which is more densely dyed are mixed. To form a polyester multifilament yarn, and to distribute and disperse the thick and fine spots in the polyester multifilament yarn finely and randomly in a state different from those in the above-mentioned prior arts (1) to (3), and after dyeing. The inventors have found that the above object can be achieved by producing three or more shades and increasing the difference between the shades (ie, the color difference ΔL) to a predetermined value or more, and completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides (a) a polyester filament containing 1 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 0.9 μm or less; and (b) a deeper dyeing dye than the polyester filament (a). A polyester multifilament yarn comprising a polyester filament, wherein each filament constituting the polyester multifilament yarn has a thick and thin spot in the length direction, and in a spectrograph of the polyester multifilament yarn, the following formula:

[0012]

[Formula 2] P ₀₃ / Pmax ≧ 0.5 ··· P ₅₀ / Pmax ≧ 0.5 ··· 0.4 ≦ P ₁₀₀ / Pmax ≦ 0.7 ··· In the formula, P ₀₃ : a normal test Period 3 on the spectrograph of
Value in cm P ₅₀ : Period 5 on spectrograph in normal test
The value at 0 cm P ₁₀₀ : The value at a period of 100 cm on the spectrograph in the normal test Pmax: The maximum value on the spectrograph in the normal test is satisfied, and the density of the polyester multifilament yarn after dyeing is three levels. And each color difference ΔL
, And a color difference ΔL between the deepest dyed part and the lightest dyed part is 14 or more, and a fabric comprising the polyester multifilament yarn.

The spectrograph referred to in the present invention is:
It means a Worcester spectrograph developed by Zuervega of Switzerland. In the present invention, the above-mentioned P ₀₃ , P ₅₀ , P
Both ₁₀₀ and Pmax in the normal test
It is a value measured at a yarn feed speed of 400 m / min and a chart range of 25%. This spectrograph is an effective means for determining the pitch of yarn spots, and details thereof are described in "Theory and Practice of Unevenness", pages 255 to 372 (published by Japan Society of Textile Machinery).

FIG. 1 shows a spectrograph obtained by a normal test for the polyester multifilament yarn included in the present invention. The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a period of 3 cm on the spectrogram.
And the value obtained by dividing the value (P ₀₃ ) at (1) and the value (P ₅₀ ) at a period of 50 cm by the maximum value (Pmax) are all 0.5 or more.
That is, in the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, by satisfying P ₀₃ /Pmax≧0.5 and P ₅₀ /Pmax≧0.5, unevenness of various periods is randomly dispersed in the filament length direction. You can see that it exists.

Further, the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a value obtained by dividing the value (P ₁₀₀ ) at a period of 1 m on the spectrograph obtained by the normal test by the maximum value (Pmax) of 0.4 to 0.7. Must be in the range of Ultra-long period spots with a period of 1 m are formed by an extremely large number of short-period spots gathering. In such an extremely long-period spot, the strength of the yarn is extremely reduced, and the handling property is extremely high. However, in the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, 0.4 ≦ P ₁₀₀
By virtue of /Pmax≦0.7, such undesirable ultra-long period spots are reduced, and have mechanically good properties.

Then, taking the above description into account, P ₀₃ ,
The polyester multifilament yarns of P ₅₀ and P ₁₀₀ satisfies the condition present invention of formula ~ described above, there a variety of FutoshiHoso plaques from FutoshiHoso plaques extremely short period until FutoshiHoso plaques slightly longer short period to the filaments However, it can be understood that those spots are moderately dispersed in the entire multifilament yarn without excessively gathering at a specific location in a specific place, and a natural heather appearance can be realized as the whole yarn. The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, among the conditions in the formula ~ described above, in particular P ₀₃ / Pmax ≧ 0.6, P
₅₀ / Pmax ≧ 0.55 and P ₁₀₀ / Pmax = 0.4~
More preferably, it is 0.5.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention satisfies the above-mentioned conditions and has a large shade difference of three or more stages over the entire filament yarn. In addition to the natural heather tone under the above conditions, a melange tone surface state is imparted to the filament yarn and the fabric obtained therefrom. Incidentally, “melange tone” generally means that there are two or more levels of color difference between a granite-like dark portion and a light-color portion, and the color difference is unevenly dispersed in small block units.

The density of the dyed multifilament yarn and fabric referred to in the present invention is determined by Kurabo Industries, Ltd.
The three primary colors of the color are analyzed by a computer color matching system (CCM) developed by the Company to check the shading, and the brightness difference between two points is measured to obtain a color difference ΔL. In the present invention, the shade of the polyester multifilament yarn after dyeing having three or more levels means that the brightness of the dyed material of the polyester multifilament yarn and the cloth is three or more levels when analyzed by the CCM. Say. Further, when each color difference ΔL is 7 or more, the difference (color difference ΔL) between one staining density (lightness) and the staining density (lightness) of the closest and darker or lighter-stained portion is determined. It means 7 or more. The color difference ΔL between the deepest dyed part and the lightest dyed part is 1
4 or more means the difference (color difference Δ) in the dyeing density (brightness) between the deepest dyed portion and the lightest dyed portion in the polyester multifilament yarn and fabric.
L) is 14 or more.

In the case of the polyester multifilament yarn, if the shade is two or less, even if the color difference
Even if L is 7 or more, especially 14 or more, the color tone becomes extremely monotonous and does not have a melange tone. Further, even if the shade is three or more, if each color difference ΔL is less than 7, or if the color difference ΔL between the deepest dyed part and the lightest dyed part is less than 14, it will not be melange-like, but will be flat. Color tone. In the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, the shade is four or more stages, each color difference {L is 10 or more, and the color difference between the deepest dyed part and the lightest dyed part}
L is more preferably 20 or more.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention which satisfies the conditions of the above formulas and the conditions of the number of shade steps and the color difference ΔL has an average particle size of 0.9 μm.
a polyester filament (a) containing 1 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having a particle size of 1 m or less and a polyester filament (b) having a higher dyeing density to produce a polyester multifilament yarn obtained by mixing them. It can be obtained by spot stretching at a low stretching ratio.

The reason why the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has the above-mentioned properties is not clear, but in the polyester filament (a) containing a large amount of inorganic fine particles, many voids called voids are formed in the filament by spinning. When it is formed and stretched at a low stretching ratio, voids randomly change the stretching point to produce thick spots having various length cycles in the stretched filament, and together with it, a thicker spot than the polyester filament (a) is formed. By spot-drawing the dyeable polyester filament (b), thick and fine spots are generated, and at the time of dyeing, a drawn filament having a multi-step shading and a large color difference ΔL is formed. It is presumed that the above-mentioned properties are given to the polyester multifilament yarn which is an aggregate of .

In the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, the ratio of the polyester filament (a) to the polyester filament (b) is about 4% by weight.
0:60 to 70:30 is preferred from the viewpoint of feeling such as swelling and melange balance, and 45:55 to 70:30.
More preferably, the ratio is set to 55:45.

In particular, in order to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn satisfying the requirements of the above formulas, the number of shade steps and the color difference ΔL condition, the polyester multifilament yarn is composed of a plurality of types of fine filaments having different denier numbers. The denier mixed multifilament yarn is preferably used. In this case, the denier mixed multifilament yarn may be a combination of two kinds of denier filaments or a combination of three or more kinds of denier filaments.

When the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is used as such a denier mix multifilament yarn, the average denier is particularly 1.5 d / d.
f or less, preferably an average denier of about 0.5 to 1.2 d
And a thick denier filament group having a thick spot with an average denier of 4.0 d / f or less, preferably about 1.8 to 3.5 d / f. Are combined, a polyester multifilament yarn satisfying the requirements of the above formulas (1), (2), and the number of shades and the color difference ΔL can be smoothly obtained. At this time, the ratio of the fine denier filaments to the thick denier filaments in one polyester multifilament yarn is 45 to 7 by weight, though not limited thereto.
0: It is preferable to set it to about 55 to 30.

When the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is a denier mixed multifilament yarn, one of the polyester filament (a) and the polyester filament (b) is formed as a fine denier filament and the other is formed as a thick denier filament. Alternatively, when the polyester filament (a) and the polyester filament (b) are combined as a denier mix filament group, the polyester filament (a) is used as the denier mix filament group, and the polyester filament (b) is used as a single denier filament group. Even if both are combined,
Alternatively, the polyester filament (a) may be used as a single denier filament group and the polyester filament (b) may be used as a denier mix filament group, and both may be combined. Among them, in particular, the polyester filament (a) is made into a fine denier filament group and the polyester filament (b) is made into a thick denier filament group, and the two are combined to form a denier mixed multifilament yarn. Filament yarns and fabrics satisfying the number of stages and the color difference ΔL condition are easily obtained, which is desirable.

In the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, the total number of filaments per multifilament yarn is set to about 10 to 200 f.
It is preferable from the viewpoints of fiberization processability at the time of spinning and the like, subsequent processability, and handleability at the time of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric.

In the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, the polyester filament (a) is not particularly limited as long as it is a filament formed of a fiber-forming polyester, but is not particularly limited, and may be a polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate or ethylene terephthalate unit. And / or a filament obtained from a copolyester containing a butylene terephthalate unit as a main constituent unit and a small amount of other copolymerized unit is preferable. In the above, when the polyester filament (a) is formed from a copolyester mainly containing ethylene terephthalate units and / or butylene terephthalate units, other copolymer units such as isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, and 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid Aromatic carboxylic acid component, oxalic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, aliphatic carboxylic acid component such as sebacic acid, trimellitic acid, polyfunctional carboxylic acid component such as pyromellitic acid, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol or ethylene glycol,
Units derived from polyethylene glycol, glycerin, pentaerythritol and the like can be included.

In the present invention, it is necessary to contain 1 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 0.9 μm or less in the polyester filament (a). If the average particle diameter of the inorganic fine particles exceeds 0.9 μm, the spinnability will be extremely poor. On the other hand, the average particle diameter of the inorganic fine particles is 0.05
When it is extremely small as less than μm, voids are less likely to be generated in the filament during spinning and drawing, and random fluctuations in the drawing point are less likely to occur, and thin spots with various periods are less likely to occur. Diameter 0.0
It is particularly preferable to use inorganic fine particles of 5 to 0.8 μm. When the content of the inorganic fine particles in the polyester filament (a) is less than 1% by weight, thick and thin spots do not appear randomly in a short period of the filaments constituting the yarn, while when it exceeds 10% by weight, the spinnability becomes poor. It is not preferable because the content is lowered and the operability is reduced, and the content of the inorganic fine particles is more preferably 3 to 6% by weight.

Preferred examples of the inorganic fine particles include barium sulfate, silica, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide,
Alumina, titanium oxide, and the like can be mentioned. Among them, barium sulfate is particularly preferable because it forms secondary particles (agglomerates) during the manufacturing process or the true specific gravity is as large as 4.49 and the dispersed state in polyester. Although the reason is not clear, it is not particularly clear, but it is particularly preferable because voids are easily generated, a random dispersion of drawing points can be obtained, and a diversified thick and thin spot period can appear on the yarn.

In the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, the polyester filament (b)
Is more intensely dyeable than the polyester filament (a), and when dyed, the number of shades becomes 3 or more, each color difference ΔL of the shaded area is 7 or more, Any polyester filament may be used as long as it can impart a dyed state to the polyester multifilament yarn such that ΔL with the dyed part is 14 or more. The polyester filament (b) may be selected depending on the type of the polyester filament (a). It is good to select and combine. Among them, the polyester filament (b) is excellent in dyeability because it is composed of a copolymerized polyester having an isophthalic acid unit in which a sulfonic acid metal base is bonded to a benzene nucleus, that is, a sulfonate isophthalic acid unit as a copolymerized unit. In this case, it is preferable that the copolymerization ratio of the sulfonate isophthalic acid unit in the polyester is 1 to 3 mol% from the viewpoints of spinning processability, dyeing properties, and general physical properties.

When a filament produced from a polyester containing a sulfonate isophthalic acid unit is used as the polyester filament (b), the main unit constituting the polyester is an ethylene terephthalate unit, a butylene terephthalate unit, or a combination thereof. It is preferable that a small amount of other copolymerized units can be contained together with these units, if necessary. Examples of such other copolymerized units include aromatic carboxylic acid components such as isophthalic acid, phthalic acid and 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and aliphatic carboxylic acid components such as oxalic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid and sebacic acid. And units derived from polyfunctional carboxylic acid components such as trimellitic acid and pyromellitic acid, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol or ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, pentaerythritol and the like.

In the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention or a fabric comprising the same, when dyed, the thick portion (unstretched portion) of the deeply dyeable polyester filament (b) is dyed the darkest color, and the polyester filament (b) is dyed. ) Detail (stretched part) is dyed a slightly lighter darker color than that, and the thick part (unstretched part) in the polyester filament (a) is slightly lighter than the detail (stretched part) of the polyester filament (b). The filament fineness of the polyester filament (a) and the polyester filament (b) and the type of polyester constituting those filaments are dyed so that the details (stretched portion) of the polyester filament (a) are dyed in the lightest color. Select and combine. As a result, the number of shades is at least 3 and usually 4 or more, and the color difference ΔL between the shades is 7 or more and the color difference ΔL between the darkest and lightest stains is 14 or more. Filament yarn and fabric can be obtained smoothly.

Further, in the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention, the polyester filament (a)
Due to the presence of the inorganic fine particles therein, voids and void-free portions are formed in the polyester filament (a), which is combined with fine and random thick and thin spots and stain spots on the filament. , A polyester multifilament yarn and a fabric made of the same, giving a high-quality heather and melange feel. In addition, the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention may be subjected to an entanglement treatment by air entanglement or another method as necessary.

The method for producing the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and any method can be used as long as a polyester multifilament yarn having the thick and thin spots satisfying the above formulas (1) and (2) and having the above-mentioned light and shade spots after dyeing is obtained. May be manufactured. Although not limited, examples of preferred methods for producing the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention are as follows.

Production Example of Polyester Multifilament Yarn of the Present Invention: (1) As shown in FIG. 2, for example, a spinning apparatus having a split die having different numbers of holes and hole diameters on the right and left sides is prepared. 4-10 inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 0.9 μm or less
2% by weight of the polyester or copolyester (a), preferably from 1500 (from the right side in FIG. 2) of the split die having a small hole diameter and a large number of holes.
2500 m / min, more preferably 1800-2200
m / min, and at the same time, a deep-dyeing polyester or copolyester (b) is similarly cast from the large-diameter and small-hole portion of the split die (the left side in FIG. 2). To produce a denier mix polyester filament yarn in which the polyester filament (a) and the polyester filament (b) are mixed. (2) Alternatively, although the production efficiency is somewhat inferior, the polyester filament (a) and the polyester filament (b) are separately spun and produced without using the direct spinning of (1), and the filaments are combined. (Mixed)
A denier mix polyester multifilament yarn may be produced. (3) Next, the polyester multifilament yarn obtained by the above (1) or (2) is preheated at a low temperature, stretched, and then heat set to produce the desired polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention. .

When the direct spinning of the above (1) is carried out, if the spinning speed is less than 1500 m / min, the fabric becomes insufficient in strength, and if the spinning speed exceeds 2500 m / min, the spinning speed after drawing is increased. Lack of spots and voids,
Care must be taken because it is difficult to obtain the desired polyester multifilament yarn. Many of the conventional thick and thin yarns have employed a spinning speed of 1500 m / min or less in order to generate spots, but in the case of the present invention, 1500.
Even if a spinning speed of ２2500 m / min is adopted, the desired yarn can be produced, and the productivity is high.

Further, when performing the spinning of (1), the friction points are adjusted so that the drawing points of the filaments are dispersed and dispersed (so that the dispersion drawing is performed) during the drawing process of (3). It is desirable to use an oil agent having a low coefficient (particularly, FF dynamic friction coefficient), and the amount of the oil agent applied at that time is preferably 0.8% by weight or more. When the amount of the oil agent is less than 0.8% by weight, the thick and thin cycle of each filament is likely to be long, and it is difficult to obtain a plaque in which thick and fine spots are finely dispersed.
In the stretching process (3), the preheating is performed by about 35 to 55
It is preferably carried out at a temperature of ° C., whereby the cycle of the large and small spots in each filament is shortened, the variation of the large and small spots due to the season hardly occurs, and the quality is constant. The higher the heat setting temperature after stretching, the more effective the elongation is reduced, but at the same time, the strength of the yarn is also reduced. Is preferred. The stretching ratio is
The following formula;

[0038]

Stretching ratio = {(D / 100) +1} × (0.5-0.6) In the formula, it is preferable to carry out the process so that D = elongation at break of polyester multifilament yarn.

The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be formed into various types of woven or knitted fabrics, similarly to ordinary polyester multifilament yarns, and is particularly suitable for woven or knitted clothing. The woven or knitted fabric produced from the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention is natural, rich in variability and variety, and has a good and deep color tone, appearance, texture, touch, and the like that does not last long after long use. At the same time, the dyed product has a melange color tone having a very natural heather tone in which the shade is dispersed and present in three or more stages.
In that case, the dyeing may be performed at the yarn stage or after forming the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, the dyeing method is not particularly limited, and a more appropriate dyeing method, dye, dyeing condition, and the like may be used depending on the type of the polyester filament (a) and the polyester filament (b) used. Further, the polyester multifilament yarn and fabric of the present invention may be distributed and sold in an undyed state, or may be distributed and sold after dyeing.

[0040]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In the following examples, the number of shades of the fabric after dyeing, the color difference ΔL between the shaded portions, and the color difference ΔL between the darkest stained portion and the lightest shaded portion were specifically examined as follows.

Measurement of the number of shade steps and color difference ΔL of the dyed fabric
Constant: Staining fabric obtained in the following examples are present in minute units deep dyeing part and Awasome part, is impossible to measure because it is necessary about 1 cm ² measured area is normal measurement instrument . Therefore, the minute part from the deep-stained part to the light-stained part is visually checked and color-matched with a puller for each color difference, and the color matching is performed by "Color 7 Colorimeter" manufactured by Kurabo Industries, Ltd. or by JEOL Ltd. Was measured using a “Z-1001DP colorimeter” of No. 7 in a circle having a diameter of 10 mm.

Example 1 (1) A split-type die as shown in FIG. 2 was prepared using polyethylene terephthalate of [η] = 0.65 containing 5% by weight of barium sulfate having an average particle size of 0.58 μm. Example 1
(12 holes on the left side; 36 holes on the right side are used), and spinning is performed from the spinning hole on the right side, and at the same time, 2 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized [η] = 0.
The ethylene terephthalate copolymer of No. 64 was spun from the spinning hole on the left side of the die in FIG. 2, and the spinning speed was 1800 m / min.
Spinning is performed under the condition of an oil agent (yarn-yarn dynamic friction coefficient 0.29) adhesion amount of 0.9% by weight, and a barium sulfate-containing polyester filament group of 70 d / 36 f [polyester filament (a) group] and 70 d / 12 f Dyeing polyester filament group [Polyester filament (b)
And polyester denier mix multifilament undrawn yarn (140d / 48f).

(2) Next, after preheating the undrawn yarn obtained in the above (1) at a hot roller temperature of 50 ° C., drawing it at a draw ratio of 1.87, and heat setting at a hot roller temperature of 130 ° C. 75d / 48f of a 37.5d / 36f polyester filament (a) group and a 37.5d / 12f polyester filament (b) group.
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention comprising the polyester denier mix multifilament drawn yarn was obtained. P ₀₃ / Pmax of this multifilament yarn =
_{0.68, P 50 /Pmax=0.70,P 100 / Pmax} =
0.50, thereby satisfying all of the above requirements. (3) A plain woven fabric was prepared using the polyester multifilament yarn obtained in (2), and dyed with a cationic dye under the following conditions.

Dyeing conditions : 100 g of a sample (a piece of plain woven fabric) was dyed (Sumiacryl Brilliant Reagent manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.).
d E-2B 200%) and 10 liters of Na ₂ SO ₄ were added to the bath, and the bath was charged with the sample and dyed at 130 ° C. under pressure for 40 minutes.

(4) The density of the dyed fabric obtained in the above (3) was examined by the above-described method. Is 10.
5. The color difference ΔL between the intermediate deeply dyed part and the lightest dyed part is 17.0;
The color difference ΔL between the deepest dyed portion and the lightest dyed portion was 27.5, and the surface effect and the melange tone were extremely natural.

Comparative Example 1 In place of barium sulfate-containing polyethylene terephthalate and ethylene terephthalate copolymer obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, barium sulfate-free [η] =
Using 0.56 polyethylene terephthalate alone, it was spun from the split die in FIG. 2 under the same conditions as in Example 1, and then drawn to produce a 75d / 48f polyester denier mix multifilament drawn yarn. P of this polyester denier mix multi-filament yarn ₀₃ /Pmax=0.12,P ₅₀ /Pmax=0.62,P
_{100 /} Pmax = 0.32, which did not satisfy the above formula and requirements. When a plain woven fabric was produced using this multifilament yarn, it became an extreme heather with a period of 60 cm, and showed only artificial, unnatural, and low-quality surface effects.

Reference Example 1 Using the polyethylene terephthalate of [η] = 0.65 alone containing 5% by weight of barium sulfate having an average particle size of 0.58 μm, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed using the split die of FIG. After spinning under the same conditions, it was drawn to produce a 75d / 48f polyester denier mix multifilament drawn yarn. P ₀₃ / Pmax of this polyester denier mix multifilament yarn
_{= 0.65, P 50 /Pmax=0.61,P 100 /} Pmax =
0.47, which satisfied the requirements of the above formulas (1) to (4).
A plain woven fabric was prepared using this multifilament yarn and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result, the number of shade steps was 2, and the color difference ΔL between the deeply dyed portion and the lightly dyed portion was 6.8. It was small and solid heather, not melange.

[0048]

The polyester multifilament yarns and fabrics of the present invention have an excellent surface with a natural, non-artificial heather tone because the thick and fine spots are distributed randomly and variably throughout the yarns in a short cycle. It has the effect, appearance and feeling, and in addition, when dyed, it has three or more shades and the color difference ΔL of the shade is large, so that a dyed product having a melange-like color tone can be obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a spectrograph of a polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a view showing an example of a spinneret used for producing the polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification code FI D01F 6/92 301 D01F 6/92 301Q 8/14 8/14 B D02J 1/22 D02J 1/22 P D03D 15/00 D03D 15 / 00 A (56) References JP-A-63-190036 (JP, A) JP-A-60-88109 (JP, A) JP-A-4-352834 (JP, A) JP-A-6-81239 (JP, A A) Patent 3042938 (JP, B2) Patent 2923138 (JP, B2) Patent 2829687 (JP, B2) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 1/00-3/48 D02J 1 / 00-13/00

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A method comprising: (a) a polyester filament containing 1 to 10% by weight of inorganic fine particles having an average particle size of 0.9 μm or less; and (b) a polyester filament which is more dyeable than the polyester filament (a). Wherein each filament constituting the polyester multifilament yarn has a thick and thin spot in the longitudinal direction, and the following formula is obtained in a spectrograph of the polyester multifilament yarn: _{03 / Pmax ≧ 0.5 ··· P 50} / Pmax ≧ 0.5 ··· 0.4 ≦ P 100 / Pmax ≦ 0.7 ··· wherein, P _03: on spectrograph in the normal test Period 3
Value in cm P ₅₀ : Period 5 on spectrograph in normal test
The value at 0 cm P ₁₀₀ : The value at a period of 100 cm on the spectrograph in the normal test Pmax: The maximum value on the spectrograph in the normal test is satisfied, and the density of the polyester multifilament yarn after dyeing is three levels. And each color difference ΔL
Is 7 or more, and the color difference ΔL between the deepest dyed part and the lightest dyed part is 14 or more. 2. The polyester multifilament yarn according to claim 1, wherein the inorganic fine particles contained in the polyester filament (a) are barium sulfate, and the polyester filament (b) is a polyester having a sulfonate isophthalic acid unit. 3. A fabric comprising the polyester multifilament yarn of claim 1 or 2.