JP3159278B2 - A new cotton fabric that is supple, glossy and excellent in heat retention - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a novel cotton fabric which is supple and excellent in gloss and heat retention.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art The quality of textile products tends to shift from the previous durable performance to the sensibility performance that enriches the human mind. It has been developed and examined for a material having excellent gloss and heat retention. As one means for this purpose, various woven fabrics have been developed in which cotton raw cotton having different fiber lengths and finenesses is combined. However,
Although the fiber length and fineness of conventional cotton wool vary depending on varieties and the like, their values are limited, and the quality performance of the fabric is still insufficient and unsatisfactory.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of such circumstances, and has a soft and supple texture made using a fiber having a very long fiber length and a small fineness. Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having excellent gloss and heat retention.

[0004]

The present invention employs the following means to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, in the present invention, the effective fiber length is 1.8 inches or more, and the microne fineness is 3.8.
(μg / inch) 10 to 6 English cotton counts containing the following cotton fibers
A woven fabric having a cover factor of 5 to 30 using the No. 0 spun yarn and having a flexural rigidity value (B) measured by a KES-FB2 tester
The average value in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 0.055 to 0.10
0 (gf · cm ² / cm), the average value of the shear stiffness value (G) by the KES-FB1 tester in the vertical and horizontal directions is 1.1.
0 to 1.70 (gf / cm-degree), gloss value by Jefree method with automatic variable angle photometer of 0.7 to 1.5 and JIS
L-1096 has a heat retention rate of 10.
It is a novel cotton fabric which is supple, excellent in gloss and excellent in heat retention, characterized by having a molecular weight of 0 to 13.0.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The present invention relates to a raw cotton having a long fiber length, for example, sea-island cotton having an average fiber length of 1.6 inches and an average micronail fineness of 3.8 (μg / inch). An English type cotton count containing preferably 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more of the raw cotton is a spun yarn of No. 10 to No. 60. In this case, the effective fiber length is 1.8 inches or more. Micronail fineness is 3.8 (μg / in
ch) or less, preferably an effective fiber length of 2.0 inches to 2.5 inches
Inch, micro nail fineness is 3.2-3.5 (μg / inc
h). Here, when the effective fiber length is less than 1.8 inches and the English cotton count is a thick count such as No. 10 to No. 60, the fluff due to the fiber ends increases, and the gloss is lost. Absent. In order to obtain such an effect, it is preferable that the above-mentioned cotton fiber is 100%.

If the micronail fineness exceeds 3.8, the cotton fibers become hard and bend, so that their softness and suppleness are lost, which is not preferable, and the number of fibers constituting one spun yarn is reduced. Has a low porosity and lacks heat retention. The setting of the twisting coefficient varies depending on customer requirements such as sweet twist and high strength yarn, but is preferably 2.0 to 3.0 in the inch system.

[0007] As a method of collecting raw cotton and collecting a portion having a long fiber length from the raw cotton, a method of manually collecting raw cotton and taking out a fiber having a constant fiber length may be used, or mechanically after passing through a card machine. In the combing step, a method of removing fibers having a short fiber length may be used. The method for producing a spun yarn is not particularly limited as long as a card machine, a comber machine, a drawing machine, a roving machine, a spinning machine, and the like commonly used for producing cotton yarn are available.

[0008] A cover factor of 5 made by using these single yarn or double yarn spun yarns as warp and weft yarns.
~ 30 woven fabrics, preferably 8 ~ 25. 5
If it is less than the texture, the texture becomes “tarara” or “slimy”, and the texture is not soft and supple. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30, it becomes "stiff" and "crisp", which is not preferable because it does not have a soft and supple texture.

[0009] The average value of the bending stiffness values in the vertical and horizontal directions by the KES-FB2 tester is 0.055 to 0.1.
00 (gf · cm ² / cm), preferably 0.060 to 0.
090 (gf · cm ² / cm). If it is less than 0.055, as a woven fabric having a cover factor of 5 to 30 using a spun yarn having an English cotton count of No. 10 to No. 60, the texture becomes "Tarara" or "Spatula" in softness. However, it does not have a soft and supple texture that requires some elasticity. On the other hand, if it exceeds 0.100, it becomes "stiff" and unfavorable because it does not have a soft and supple texture.

In addition, the average value of the shear stiffness values in the vertical and horizontal directions measured by a KES-FB1 tester is 1.10 to 1.0.
70 (gf / cm-degree), preferably 1.15 to 1.65
(gf / cm-degree). If it is less than 1.10, the woven fabric having a cover factor of 5 to 30 using a spun yarn having an English-type cotton count of 10 to 60 has a texture of "Tarara".
It becomes "spatial" and soft and supple texture that requires some elasticity in softness is no longer available. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.70, it becomes "stiff" and "crisp", and the drape property is lost, resulting in a soft and supple texture, which is not preferable.

Jeffri (Jeffri) using an automatic goniophotometer
es) The gloss value of the method is from 0.7 to 1.5, preferably from 0.8 to 1.4. If it is less than 0.7, the elegant gloss of the fabric surface is lost, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the ratio exceeds 1.5, the gloss becomes too glossy, which is not preferable.
The heat retention rate by the heat retention property (constant temperature method) of JIS L-1096 is 10.0 to 13.0, and preferably 10.5 to 1
2.5. If it is less than 10.0, the English cotton count is 10
The cover factor using spun yarns of No. 60 to No. 60 is 5 to 30
When the woven fabric is used as clothing, heat radiation of body temperature is too large, which is not preferable as clothing. In addition, when it exceeds 13.0, the heat radiation of body temperature is too small, and it becomes unfavorable clothing when worn in summer. It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel cotton fabric which is soft, supple and excellent in gloss and heat retention by making such a fabric.

In the weaving process and the finishing of the woven fabric (raw machine), any apparatus can be used as long as it is usually used for weaving and finishing cotton fabric. The cover factor (K), which is a parameter representing the crowding density of the woven greige yarn, is expressed by Equation 1.

[0013]

(Equation 1)

Here, n is a tissue point in one circulation, and St is 1
The number of warp yarns in circulation, Sw is the number of weft yarns in one circulation, a
The warp yarn count, b is the weft yarn count, T is the warp yarn density, and W is the weft yarn density.

The texture of the woven fabric (raw machine) is evaluated by measuring various properties of the fabric related to the texture using a commercially available KES tester. Although there are various characteristics of the fabric in relation to the texture, regarding the softness and softness, the bending stiffness value by the KES-FB2 tester and the shear stiffness value by the KES-FB1 tester are standard conditions set by the tester. And expressed as an average value of the values in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction.

As shown in FIG. 1, the bending stiffness value of the measurement sample 3 was measured using the chuck 1 and the chuck 2 (distance between chucks; 1c).
m), the bending curvature of sample 3 is 0 to +2.5 to 0.
The chuck 2 is moved so as to be in the range of −2.5 to 0, and FIG.
A bending moment to curvature curve as shown in FIG. 0 → +
Bending moment during bending deformation process of 2.5 to curvature value 0.5 in curvature curve (4) and bending moment in bending deformation process from 0 to 2.5 to curvature-0 in curvature curve It is represented by the average value of the absolute values of the bending moment increase values (5) between 0.5 and -1.5.

As shown in FIG. 3, the shear stiffness values are measured sample 8 chuck 6 and chuck 7 (distance between chucks;
5 cm) and the sample shear angle is 0 to +8 to 0.
The chuck 7 is moved so as to be -8 to 0 to obtain a shearing force-shear angle curve as shown in FIG. Shear force in the course of shear deformation from 0 → + 8 to increase in shear force between the shear angle +0.5 and 5.0 in the shear angle curve 9 and shear force in the course of shear deformation from 0 → -8 to the shear curve It is represented by the average value of the absolute values of the increase values 10 of the shearing force between the shear angles -0.5 and -5.0.

The measurement of the gloss value by the Jeffries method using an automatic goniophotometer is performed by mounting the sample 12 on the sample stage 11 as shown in FIG.
And the incident angle 13 with respect to the sample is +43.
° and the light receiving angle 14 were set to + 165 °, and the sample 12 was moved 3 ° in the direction of the arrow on the surface of the sample stage 11 as shown in FIG.
By rotating by 60 °, a reflectance-angle curve as shown in FIG. 7 is obtained. The ratio 15/16 between the maximum reflectance value 15 and the minimum reflectance value 16 in the reflectance-angle curve is determined as the gloss value.

Thermal insulation of JIS L-1096 (constant temperature method)
As shown in FIG. 8, the measurement of the heat retention rate is performed by mounting the sample 18 on the constant temperature heating element 17 controlled to keep the temperature constant, and not mounting the heat radiation amount radiated through the sample during the test time of 2 hours and the sample. In this case, the heat release rate is obtained in the same manner, and the heat retention rate is obtained from Equation 2. An electric heater 19 and a thermistor 20 are built in the constant temperature heating element, and the electric heater is connected to a power consumption integrator. The electric heater and the thermistor are connected by a temperature control unit so that the temperature of the constant temperature heating element is kept constant. The amount of heat released with and without the sample is evaluated based on each integrated power consumption.

[0020]

(Equation 2)

Here, a is the amount of heat radiation (power consumption) when the constant-temperature heating element is naked, and b is the amount of heat radiation (power consumption) when the sample is attached to the constant-temperature heating element.

The sensory test related to the texture is about 50 c
Prepare a woven fabric with a size of mx 50 cm for each of the product of the present invention and the comparative product, and judge the suppleness, softness, hotness, and presence / absence of gloss by a paired comparison method while presenting them to an expert in texture determination. Is what you do. As an evaluation result, a more supple, softer, more glossy, and glossy one was represented by ○, and one less was represented by ×.

[0023]

【Example】

Example 1 After opening the cotton lumps of sea-island cotton, a sliver was made by passing it through a flat card machine, and it was passed through a comber machine set so that only the long fiber length remained, leaving only the long fiber length. Further, it is passed through a drawing machine and a roving machine to obtain 3
A roving equivalent to the count was produced. Then, the roving yarn was drafted about 15 times with a spinning machine, and the yarn was wound 20 times / inch to form a single yarn equivalent to 40th yarn. Further, a twin yarn was produced by twisting the yarn 15 times / inch. The fiber length of the cotton in the sliver after passing through the comber was measured by a method using a sorter and was distributed between 1.8 inches and 2.0 inches, and the effective fiber length was 1.90 inches. The fineness by the micro nail method is 3.5 (μg / inc
h).

4100 double yarns were prepared as warp yarns, warped, and a plain weaving machine was manufactured using a loom manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation. After bleaching the greige with a hydrogen peroxide solution,
The fabric was processed by a generally used finishing agent such as mercerizing and softener to finish the fabric. Take three sample pieces of 20 cm x 20 cm size from the obtained woven fabric and use a KES tester to determine the characteristics of the woven fabric related to the hand, such as the basis weight, elongation property, bending property, shear property, thickness / compression property, The surface friction characteristics were measured. The gloss characteristics were measured on three sample pieces measuring 4.5 cm × 5.0 cm. The basis weight was weighed and indicated in fg / m ² . In addition, elongation characteristics, thickness / compression characteristics, and the like were measured by a standard method defined as a measurement method of a KES tester. The gloss characteristics were measured using an automatic goniophotometer manufactured by Murakami Color Co., Ltd.
It was measured by the es method. As the heat retention characteristics, a heat retention tester manufactured by Daiei Kagaku Seiki Seisaku-sho, Ltd. was used. Note that n = 1, Sw = 2, St = 2 for the cover factor K.
A and b of the heat retention rate are a = 25.22 watts and b = 2, respectively.
2. It was 19 watts. In addition, a and b are power consumption (W) in the test for 2 hours. The same applies to Comparative Example 1, Example 2, and Comparative Example 2.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 A sliver was made by passing through a flat card machine using sea-island cotton, and the sliver was passed through a comber machine set under ordinary conditions to leave only a fiber having a long fiber length. A roving yarn equivalent to 3rd was made by spinning. These roving yarns were drafted about 15 times and spun at 20 times / inch to produce a single yarn equivalent to 40 count.
Further, a twin yarn was produced by twisting the yarn 15 times / inch. In the same manner as in Example 1, production of a 40th double yarn and production of a woven fabric were performed. As a result of measuring the fiber length of sea-island cotton by the sorter method, the minimum fiber length was 1.1 inches to the maximum fiber length of 2.0 inches, and the effective fiber length was 1.59 inches. The measured results of the properties of the fabric related to the hand and the results of the sensory test are shown in Table 1 together with Example 1. Note that, for the cover factor K, n = 1, Sw = 1, St
= 1. Further, regarding the heat retention, a = 25.13,
b = 22.24.

The measured values of various properties of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 1. The measured values of the characteristics of Example 1 are larger than those of the cotton counts produced using the conventional cotton raw cotton (sea-island cotton) shown in Comparative Example 1. Things are
Soft (flexible), flexible, drapeable (small B, G, 2HG) and glossy (large gloss). In addition, the heat retention rate was high, and the results of the sensory test of the texture showed that the film was supple, soft, and glossy.

[0027]

[Table 1]

Example 2 After opening the cotton lumps of sea-island cotton, a sliver is made by passing through a flat card machine, and the sliver is passed through a comber machine which is set so that only the long fiber length remains. Sliver, and 0.7d × 51
mm staple fiber with a flat card machine to make slivers, and sliver them with a drawing machine to adjust the weight ratio between cotton raw cotton and polyester staple fiber to 5 mm.
A sliver mixed at a ratio of 0 to 50 was prepared, and a double yarn obtained by combining 40-count single yarns was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1. The bleaching of the greige was carried out with a sodium hypochlorite solution because of the polyester / cotton mixed fabric, but the other finishing conditions were the same as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the measured values of various properties of the obtained woven fabric together with the results of Comparative Example 2. Note that n = 1 and Sw =
2, St = 2. In addition, a and b of the heat retention rate are a
= 25.18, b = 22.21.

Comparative Example 2 After the sea-island cotton lumps were opened, the sliver was made by passing through a flat card machine, and the sliver was passed through a comber machine set so that only the long fiber remained, and the sliver had a long fiber length. Sliver leaving only 0.7d
A sliver was prepared by placing a × 51 mm polyester sliver fiber on a flat card machine. A sliver was prepared by mixing them with a drawing machine at a weight ratio of 50% to 50% of cotton raw cotton and polyester staple fiber, and the 100th single yarn was combined in the same manner as described in Example 2. A double thread was produced, and the other finishing conditions were the same as in Example 2 to produce a woven fabric. The measured results of the properties of the fabric related to the hand and the sensory test results are shown in Table 2 together with the results of Example 2. Note that n = 1, Sw
= 2, St = 2. A and b of the heat retention rate are respectively a = 2
5.15, b = 22.33.

As is clear from the results shown in Table 2, as compared with the conventional cotton count using cotton long cotton (sea-island cotton) having a long fiber length, it has a soft (flexible), supple and drapeable property (B , G, and 2HG are small) and glossy (high gloss value). In addition, the heat retention rate is high, and the results of the sensory test of the texture show that the film is supple, soft, and has a gloss and gloss.

[0031]

[Table 2]

[0032]

According to the present invention, a spun yarn having an effective cotton length of 1.8 inches or more and a micronail fineness of 3.8 (μg / inch) or less is used. Woven fabric with a cover factor of 5 to 30,
2 The average value of the bending stiffness value (B) in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction by the tester is 0.055 to 0.100 (fg · cm ² / cm), K
The average value of the shear stiffness value (G) in the vertical and horizontal directions by the ES-FB1 tester is 1.10 to 1.70 ((fg / cm
・ Degree), Jie-free light with automatic variable-angle photometer
A soft, supple, glossy and heat-retaining new wood with a heat value of from 0.7 to 1.5 and a heat retention rate of 10.0 to 13.0 according to JIS L-1096 heat insulation (constant temperature method). Cotton fabrics can be provided to consumers.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing a chuck and a sample portion in a bending rigidity value measuring device.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing a bending moment to curvature curve in measurement of a bending rigidity value.

FIG. 3 is a schematic side view showing a chuck and a sample portion in a shear stiffness value measuring device.

FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing a curve of a shear force to a shear angle in measurement of a shear rigidity value.

FIG. 5 is a schematic side view showing a chuck and a sample part in gloss measurement by the automatic goniophotometer by the Jeffries method.

FIG. 6 is an explanatory diagram showing a rotation direction of a sample stage in gloss measurement by the Jeffries method using an automatic goniophotometer.

FIG. 7 is an explanatory diagram showing a reflectance-angle curve in gloss measurement by the Jeffries method using an automatic goniophotometer.

FIG. 8 is a schematic side view showing a constant temperature heating element portion and a sample portion in the heat retention by a constant temperature method using a heat retention tester.

[Explanation of symbols]

1 chuck, 2 chucks, 3 samples, 4 increase in bending moment between 0.5 and 1.5 curvature, 5 increase in bending moment between curvature -0.5, 6 chuck, 7
Chuck, 8 samples, 9 shear angle + increase in shear force between 0.5 and 5.0, 10 shear angle-0.
Shear force increase between 5 and 5.0, 11 sample stage, 12
Sample, 13 incident angle, 14 reflection angle, 15 maximum reflectance value, 16 minimum reflectance value, 17 constant temperature heating element,
18 samples, 19 electric heaters, 20 thermistors.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (58) Field surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D03D 1/00-27/18 D02G 1/00-3/48 D02J 1/00-13/00

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A cover factor using a spun yarn having an effective cotton length of 1.8 inches or more and an English cotton count of No. 10 to 60 including a cotton fiber having a micronail fineness of 3.8 (μg / inch) or less. 5-30 woven fabrics, the average of the bending stiffness value (B) in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction by the KES-FB2 testing machine is 0.055-0.100 (gf · cm ² / cm),
-The average value of the shear stiffness value (G) in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction by the FB1 tester is 1.10 to 1.70 (gf / cm · degre).
e), that the gloss value by the Geier-free method using an automatic goniophotometer is 0.7 to 1.5 and the heat retention rate by the heat retaining property (constant temperature method) of JIS L-1096 is 10.0 to 13.0. A new type of cotton fabric that is flexible and has excellent gloss and heat retention.