JP3225083B2 - Manufacturing method of worsted tone knitted fabric with heather effect - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a high rebound woven fabric having a soft and worsted feeling, and more particularly, to a woven fabric using a yarn having a relatively large denier fiber but having a special physical property. The present invention relates to a soft, high repulsion heather-like worsted woven knitted fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method for obtaining a worsted toned knitted fabric having a heather effect, as described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97940, a yarn having different dyeability from each other and having a low elongation and a low elongation are used. A method has been adopted in which weaving is performed using a composite false twisted yarn composed of a large yarn, and a dyeing treatment and a finishing treatment are performed so as to obtain a different color. The obtained worsted knitted fabric showed a heather effect in appearance, and had a wool-like surface touch, but was not satisfactory in terms of fabric tension, waist, and resilience. On the other hand, an attempt was made to use a thick single-filament yarn as the composite false twist yarn in order to improve the tension and stiffness, but it was not satisfactory in the sense of tear as a woven fabric.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve such a conventional problem, to have sufficient texture and flexibility,
Another object of the present invention is to provide a carded woven fabric having high repulsion.

[0004]

According to the present invention, the single yarn fineness is 3
A yarn group A consisting of highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments in the range of ~ 20 denier and a yarn group B consisting of low oriented undrawn polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less, a yarn group B comprising: A composite yarn C composed of a plurality of types of polyester filaments having different dyeing properties is 60 ° C to 95 ° C in a non-twisted state or after twisting.
Heat-set in the range, and heat-set composite yarn C is woven or knitted using at least one of a warp and a weft to form a fabric, and a dyeing treatment and a finishing treatment are performed so that the composite yarn C is dyed in a different color. Wherein the yarn length ratio (B / A) of the yarn group A and the yarn group B is in the range of 1.03 to 1.30 after finishing the cloth, and the yarn length is large. The filament B is disposed mainly on the surface of the composite yarn C, and the filament of the yarn group B having a large yarn length has physical properties satisfying the following (1) and (2), and has a soft surface touch and a heather effect. The present invention provides a method for producing a high repulsion worsted knitted fabric. 0.3 ≤ strength (g / de) ≤ 2.0 (1) 50 ≤ elongation (%) ≤ 200 (2)

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The polyester filament used in the present invention comprises a polyester whose main constituent unit is alkylene terephthalate. This polyester contains terephthalic acid as a main acid component and has 2 to 6 carbon atoms, namely, ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol,
It is a polyester containing, as a main glycol component, at least one glycol selected from hexamethylene glycol, particularly preferably ethylene glycol and tetramethylene glycol. Further, a polyester in which a part of the terephthalic acid component is replaced by another difunctional carboxylic acid component, or a polyester in which a part of the glycol component is replaced by a diol component other than the above-described glycol may be used. Good.

The polyester filament composite yarn C used in the present invention is composed of a yarn group A and a yarn group B, and the yarn group B is composed of two or more polyester filaments having different dyeing properties. Such a configuration is a composite yarn C
Is required to make the appearance of a wool-like woven and knitted fabric in a dyeing process. In addition, since the dyeability is different, when the woven or knitted fabric is finished, it is possible to obtain a product in which the feeling and the appearance of the heather are slightly changed in combination with the denier difference and the slight difference in the physical properties. . The ratio of the plurality of types of filaments having different dyeing properties constituting the yarn group B is not particularly limited, and the ratio may be appropriately set according to a target heather tone.

The single yarn fineness of the filaments of the yarn group A is 3 to 2
0 denier is required. If less than 3 denier, composite yarn C
However, even if the woven or knitted fabric made of the yarn C is a thin cloth, it is unfavorably too tight, and the stiffness and rebound are too low. On the other hand, if the denier exceeds 20 denier, the yarn group A is a soft yarn, but it is not preferable because it has a poor feeling of a knitted fabric, especially a woven fabric, and is stiff. Preferred single yarn fineness is 5
Denier to 15 denier. Further, the strength (St) of the filament of the yarn group A is 2.0 ≦ St ≦ 6.0,
The elongation (El) is preferably in the range of 30 ≦ El ≦ 120%.

As the polyester filaments constituting the yarn group B, those having a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less are used. This is because, after the composite yarn C composed of the yarn group B and the yarn group A is woven and knitted, a heating step is performed during the dyeing and finishing process, and the heat at that time causes a yarn length difference between the yarn group A and the yarn group B, and the yarn group B This is because slack is developed and appears on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric to form a sheath yarn, which greatly affects the texture of the woven fabric, particularly the surface touch. Therefore, when the single-fiber fineness of the yarn group B exceeds 5 denier, the surface is hard, and it becomes a rugged and rugged woven fabric, which is far from the worsted woven fabric. The preferred single yarn fineness is in the range of 0.5 to 2.0 denier.

The strength (St) of the filament of the yarn group B is 0.3 ≦ St (g / d) ≦ 2.0, and the elongation (El)
Is in the range of 50 ≦ El (%) ≦ 200. The strength is 0.
If it is less than 3 g / d, the abrasion strength is weak and a problem in wearing clothes tends to occur, and if it exceeds 2.0 g / d, it tends to cause pilling, which is not good. The same can be said for elongation. Preferably, the strength (St) is 0.1.
5 ≦ St (g / d) ≦ 1.7, and the elongation (El) is 6
The range is 0 ≦ El (%) ≦ 150.

The composite yarn used in the present invention uses a highly oriented undrawn yarn as a filament constituting the yarn group A and a low oriented undrawn yarn as a filament constituting the yarn group B. It is obtained by performing false twisting at a low temperature. Room temperature is preferred as the low temperature range. That is,
The yarn group A is a highly oriented undrawn yarn filament having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 20 denier, and the yarn group B is a single yarn fineness of 5
Using a low-oriented unstretched filament yarn of denier or less, unstretched yarns of the two yarn groups are false twisted in a aligned state.
The temperature in this false twist is at most 80 ° C, and preferably the false twist is performed at room temperature of 20 to 30 ° C. The stretching ratio is preferably in the range of 1.3 to 1.65.

[0011] Since the composite yarn used in the present invention is produced by the above-described method, the undrawn yarn of the yarn group B is subjected to a drawing action of a natural ratio or less. If the undrawn yarn B is subjected to the drawing action of the natural ratio or less alone, the undrawn yarn becomes a thick and thin mottled yarn. However, in the composite yarn used in the present invention, both the high-oriented undrawn yarn A and the low-oriented undrawn yarn B are false-twisted and drawn, so that the undrawn yarn B does not become a thick and thin mottled yarn. Obtained as a uniform filament. Moreover, since such a filament is not subjected to heat setting at the time of false twisting and drawing, it can be obtained with a very low Young's modulus. The filament B used in the present invention generally has a Young's modulus of 130 to 600.
In the range. In addition, since the filament is subjected to a drawing action equal to or smaller than the natural magnification, the strength (S
t) is in the range of 0.3 ≦ St ≦ 2.0, giving flexibility to surface touch.

The boiling water shrinkage of the composite yarn C used in the present invention is generally as high as 10% to 50%. Therefore, it is necessary to heat-set in a non-twisted state or after twisting to further reduce the boiling water shrinkage. The heat setting is performed at a temperature between 60C and 95C.
As a heat setting method, a steam set or a vacuum steam set is effective. By the heat setting, not only the twist setting is performed, but also the effect that the yarn group B develops a self-elongation slack and easily becomes a sheath yarn.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is woven using a composite yarn for at least one of a warp and a weft, or can be obtained by knitting using a composite yarn C. After knitting and weaving, the woven and knitted fabric is sent to a dyeing / finishing process. The dyeing / finishing process is generally the same as scouring relaxation, raising, presetting, dyeing, shearing, final setting, or raising is performed after presetting. It is performed by going through various steps. Although the finishing may be carried out in a processing step in which the raising and shaving steps are omitted, a worsted tone woven fabric is more obtained by raising.

The heat treatment is performed by boiling water in the scouring relaxation treatment, and subsequently, the heat treatment performed in the presetting causes the long filaments (yarn group B) of the composite yarn C to exhibit self-extensibility. Such behavior is exhibited even when the yarns constituting the woven fabric are twisted. Due to the self-elongation of the filament (yarn group B), a long filament (yarn group B) of the composite yarn C is mainly arranged on the surface of the yarn and the surface of the woven fabric. The scouring relaxation is performed at high temperature, 120 ° C ~
130 ° C. is preferred. In addition, the presetting step is performed at a temperature of 180 to 200 ° C., which is higher than a normal temperature, and is preferably 18 to 200 ° C.
Performed at 5 ° C to 195 ° C. By performing the treatment under such conditions, the self-elongation of the filaments of the yarn group B increases, and the swelling feeling of the woven fabric can be further improved.

Further, it is preferable that twisting when the composite C is made into a woven fabric is performed with a twist coefficient k in the range of 4000 to 18,000. Here, the false twist coefficient k is represented by the following equation. k = number of twists per meter x √ denier

[0016]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the method for producing a worsted knitted fabric of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. Example 1 As a highly oriented undrawn yarn constituting the yarn group A, a normal polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (115 denier, 1
5 filaments) and a cationically dyeable polyethylene terephthalate filament obtained by copolymerizing ordinary polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (90 denier, 24 filaments) and 2.6 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalate as low-oriented undrawn yarn constituting the yarn group B. Thread (1
50 denier, 48 filaments) were aligned and subjected to low-temperature false twisting using an apparatus as shown in FIG. That is, the highly oriented undrawn yarn Y ₁ , the cationically dyeable low oriented undrawn yarn Y _2, and the ordinary low oriented undrawn yarn Y ₃ are respectively
_1, G through ₂ and G _3,引揃example further through the guide G _4, allowed cause entanglement to the interlace nozzle 2 between the supply roller 1 and the intermediate roller 3, the low-temperature temporary while providing stretching of 1.62 times Twisted. In the figure, 4 is a heater, 5 is a false twisting means, and 6 is an intermediate roller. At this time, the false twist was performed at room temperature, and the heating by the heater 4 was not particularly performed.

In order to adjust the boiling water shrinkage after the false twisting, heat setting was carried out continuously at 280 ° C. by the heater 7, and the roll was wound into a roll 9 by the winding roller 8. The obtained composite yarn was a 230-denier, 87-filament yarn and had a boiling water shrinkage of 11.7%. The composite yarn was twisted at a right twist of 600 T / M, and then vacuum steam set at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. Next, the composite yarn was woven and dyed under the conditions shown in Table 1. Needle cloth raising was performed after scouring relaxation. The dyeing was performed using only a cationic dye and dyed black.

[0018]

[Table 1]

Although the obtained woven fabric has not been subjected to the alkali weight reduction treatment, the surface touch is soft and has a slimy feeling, and is excellent in repulsion, hardly wrinkled, and has neither appearance nor heat sink flow. It became a heather with a good feeling. Table 2 shows the physical properties of the obtained woven fabric.

[0020]

[Table 2]

Example 2 As a highly oriented undrawn yarn constituting the yarn group A, ordinary polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (268 denier, 1
Cation dyeable polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn obtained by copolymerizing ordinary polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn (150 denier, 36 filaments) and sodium sulfoisophthalate at 2.6 mol% as low-oriented undrawn yarns constituting yarn group B. (2
25 denier, 72 filaments) were aligned and subjected to low-temperature false twisting while giving a 1.67-fold stretching using an apparatus as shown in FIG. False twisting temperature by heater 4 is 80 ° C
And After processing, heat setting was continuously performed at 280 ° C. by the heater 7 in order to adjust the boiling water shrinkage. The obtained composite yarn was a 424 denier, 120 filament yarn, and the boiling water shrinkage was 2.2%.

Using the above composite yarn, twist number 500 T / M
Vacuum steam heat setting was performed at 75 ° C. for 30 minutes at (k = 10300). The fabric was woven with a warp density of 82 strands / 3.79 cm, a weft density of 80 strands / 3.79 cm, and a woven structure of twill (2/2 ↑), and dyed under the conditions shown in Table 1. Needle cloth raising was performed after presetting. Dyeing was performed with a cationic dye only. Despite the fact that the resulting fabric has not been subjected to alkali weight loss treatment, it has excellent repulsion, has a soft surface touch, is less likely to wrinkle, and expresses a good heather appearance, and is a saxony-like fabric was gotten. Table 2 shows the physical properties of the obtained woven fabric. As shown in Table 2, the fabric showed good anti-pilling properties.

[0023]

In the method of the present invention, since the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a heat treatment in the finishing step, the highly oriented unstretched filament yarn (yarn group A) constituting the composite yarn shrinks while the low orientation unstretched filament yarn. The filament yarn (yarn group B) exhibits self-extensibility, resulting in a yarn length difference between the two filament yarns, creating a gap between the filaments, thereby reducing the contact pressure between the filaments and increasing the swelling of the fabric. The resilience is improved. In particular, the self-elongation of the filament yarn of the yarn group B is remarkably developed when heat-treated in a dyeing finishing step by heat setting in an untwisted state or after twisting, and greatly contributes to improvement in resilience and bulging feeling. . Such an improvement in resilience can be achieved without performing the conventional alkali weight reduction.

The composite yarn is composed of a yarn group B
However, since it is composed of a plurality of polyester filaments having different dyeing properties, the different color effect appears as a heather. By changing the mixing ratio of filament yarns having different colors or dyeing properties, woven or knitted fabrics having different heather-like appearances can be obtained. In addition to such mixing of filaments having different colors or dyeing properties, the yarn length difference as described above causes
A woven or knitted fabric having a sophisticated heather-like appearance and extremely excellent rebound and swelling is obtained.

Furthermore, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by the method of the present invention is covered with a filament having a very low Young's modulus and a long yarn length (yarn group B), so that a soft and slimy surface touch can be obtained. Can be In addition, since the strength St of the fiber covering the woven or knitted product is in the range of 0.3 ≦ St ≦ 2.0, the woven fabric has excellent pilling resistance. When finishing the woven or knitted fabric, if brushing with a needle cloth is performed after scouring relaxation or after presetting, a worsted woven or knitted fabric having a sense of heather and swelling and a soft surface touch is obtained.

According to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric having the same heat-treating effect and feeling as that obtained by using the top-dyed worsted yarn can be obtained by post-dyeing or soaking mainly using a thermoplastic multifilament yarn. Since the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the above-described excellent properties, it is suitably used for suits, slacks, uniforms, and the like, which are applications that do not cause wear fatigue and collapse.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view showing an example of an apparatus for obtaining a composite yarn.

[Explanation of symbols]

Y ₁ highly oriented undrawn yarn Y ₂ cationically dyeable low oriented undrawn yarn Y ₃ ordinary low oriented undrawn yarn G _{1 to} G guide 1 supply roller 2 interlace nozzle 3 intermediate roller 4 heater 5 false twisting means 6 intermediate roller 7 heater 8 Winding roller 9 Composite yarn

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI D03D 15/04 D03D 15/04 A (56) References JP-A-62-97940 (JP, A) JP-A-4-3779 ( JP, A) JP-A-2-293435 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06P 3/86 D02G 1/02 D02G 1/18 D02G 3/04 D03D 15 / 00 D03D 15/04 JICST file (JOIS)

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A yarn group A consisting of highly oriented undrawn polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness of 3 to 20 denier and a yarn group B consisting of low oriented undrawn polyester filaments having a single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less. A composite yarn obtained by drawing false twisting at a drawing temperature of 80 ° C. or lower, and a yarn group B is formed of a composite yarn C composed of a plurality of types of polyester filaments having different dyeing properties in a non-twisted state or 60 ° C. after twisting. Heat setting in the range of 95 ° C., weaving or knitting using the heat set composite yarn C for at least one of a warp and a weft to form a fabric, and performing a dyeing treatment so that the composite yarn C is dyed in a different color. After finishing the fabric, the yarn length ratio (B / A) between the yarn group A and the yarn group B is in a range of 1.03 to 1.30, which is characterized by performing a finishing treatment;
The filaments of the yarn group B having a large yarn length are disposed mainly on the surface portion of the composite yarn C, and the filaments of the yarn group B having a large yarn length have physical properties satisfying the following (1) and (2), and are flexible. Of high-repulsion worsted knitted fabric having a good surface touch and heather effect. 0.3 ≤ strength (g / de) ≤ 2.0 (1) 50 ≤ elongation (%) ≤ 200 (2)