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JP3244150B2 - Manufacturing method of polyester heather-like thick and thin yarn - Google Patents
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JP3244150B2 - Manufacturing method of polyester heather-like thick and thin yarn - Google Patents

Manufacturing method of polyester heather-like thick and thin yarn

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Publication number
JP3244150B2
JP3244150B2 JP20995993A JP20995993A JP3244150B2 JP 3244150 B2 JP3244150 B2 JP 3244150B2 JP 20995993 A JP20995993 A JP 20995993A JP 20995993 A JP20995993 A JP 20995993A JP 3244150 B2 JP3244150 B2 JP 3244150B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
thick
yarn
draw ratio
temperature
thin
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
JP20995993A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0748746A (en
Inventor
香織 黒田
秀夫 坂倉
能則 川島
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Original Assignee
Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Mitsubishi Chemical Corp, Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd filed Critical Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Priority to JP20995993A priority Critical patent/JP3244150B2/en
Publication of JPH0748746A publication Critical patent/JPH0748746A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP3244150B2 publication Critical patent/JP3244150B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、ポリエステル杢調太細
糸の製造方法に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a thick polyester yarn.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】シックアンドシン糸、即ち単繊維の長手
方向に繊度が変化する太細糸は、いわゆる部分的異収縮
混繊糸となることから、太細糸によって得られる布帛
は、特異な風合いを呈し、特に染色により単繊維の太部
と細部に濃淡差を生じミックス調の外観を呈する。通
常、太細糸は、単繊維の太部の長さ、個数及び分散状態
により、スラブ調のものから霜降り調のものまで種々あ
るが、スラブ調太細糸は、濃淡コントラストが強いが、
太部が大きく分散パターンが粗であり、一方、霜降り調
太細糸は、例えば、本出願人は、特願平4−37717
号で、ポリエステル未延伸糸を比較的低温条件下で加熱
と同時に低倍率延伸し、更に総延伸倍率がMDR×
(0.45〜0.55)となるよう追加延伸することに
より太部と細部が高度に分散した太細糸を得る提案をし
ているが、得られた太細糸は、太部と細部が細かく分散
がランダムすぎるため、濃淡コントラストが弱いという
問題がある。
2. Description of the Related Art Thick and thin yarns, i.e., thick and thin yarns whose fineness changes in the longitudinal direction of a single fiber are so-called partially heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarns. It has a texture, and especially the dyeing produces a mixed tone due to the difference in shading between the thick part and details of the single fiber. In general, thick and thin yarns vary from slab-like to marbling-like depending on the length, number and dispersion state of the thick part of the single fiber, but slab-like thick and thin yarn has a strong contrast of light and shade,
The thick portion is large and the dispersion pattern is coarse, while the marbling thick yarn is, for example, disclosed in Japanese Patent Application No. 4-37717.
No., the polyester unstretched yarn is stretched at a low magnification simultaneously with heating at a relatively low temperature, and the total stretching ratio is MDR ×
(0.45 to 0.55), it has been proposed to obtain a thick and thin thread in which the thick part and the details are highly dispersed by additionally stretching to obtain (0.45 to 0.55). However, there is a problem that the contrast is weak because the dispersion is too random.

【0003】[0003]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、かかる従来
の太細糸、特に上記特願平4−37717号の提案での
太細糸の問題点を改良し、染色での濃淡コントラストが
強く、かつ太部と細部の分散が密でランダムなポリエス
テル杢調太細糸を得ることにある。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the problem of such conventional thick and thin yarns, particularly the thick and thin yarns proposed in Japanese Patent Application No. Hei 4-37717, and provides a strong contrast in the dyeing. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a polyester thick and fine yarn having a dense and random dispersion of thick portions and details.

【0004】[0004]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明は、複屈折率が1
5×10-3〜40×10-3であるポリエステル未延伸糸
を、定張力下にエアー交絡処理して30〜150個/m
の交絡を付与し、引き続き、下式(1)〜(5)を満た
す条件で2段延伸することを特徴とするポリエステル杢
調太細糸の製造方法にある。 (1)TDR=MDR×(0.45〜0.55) (2)TDR=DR1×DR2 (3)DR1=MDR×(0.40〜0.50) (4)HRT≦Tc (5)Tg≦HPT≦Tc 但し、式中、TDRは総延伸倍率、DR1は第1段延伸
倍率、DR2は第2段延伸倍率、MDRは上記未延伸糸
の最大延伸倍率、HRTは第1段延伸における温度
(℃)、HPTは第2段延伸域における温度(℃)、T
cは上記未延伸糸の結晶化温度(℃)、Tgは上記未延
伸糸のガラス転移温度(℃)である。
According to the present invention, a birefringence of 1 is provided.
An unentangled polyester yarn having a size of 5 × 10 −3 to 40 × 10 −3 is air-entangled under a constant tension to obtain 30 to 150 yarns / m 3.
And then continuously stretching in two steps under the conditions satisfying the following formulas (1) to (5). (1) TDR = MDR × (0.45 to 0.55) (2) TDR = DR 1 × DR 2 (3) DR 1 = MDR × (0.40 to 0.50) (4) HRT ≦ Tc ( 5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, DR 1 is the first draw ratio, DR 2 is the second draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, and HRT is the first draw ratio. The temperature (° C.) in the first-stage stretching, the HPT is the temperature (° C.) in the second-stage stretching zone, T
c is the crystallization temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg is the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn.

【0005】本発明において、使用するポリエステル未
延伸糸は、主たる繰り返し単位がエチレンテレフタレー
トであるポリエステルからなり、複屈折率が15×10
-3〜40×10-3であるポリエステル未延伸糸を供給糸
として使用することが必要である。複屈折率が15×1
-3未満であると、低延伸倍率を採用する第1段延伸域
で太部(未延伸部)が長くなりすぎるだけでなく、この
太部が仮撚加工、染色加工等での熱処理やアルカリ処理
により脆化し、加工安定性及び品質を損ない、複屈折率
が40×10-3を超えると、太部と細部との収縮差が小
さく風合的にふくらみに欠けたものとなる。
In the present invention, the polyester undrawn yarn used is made of a polyester whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate and has a birefringence of 15 × 10
It is necessary to use a polyester undrawn yarn of -3 to 40 × 10 -3 as a supply yarn. Birefringence is 15 × 1
When it is less than 0 -3 , not only the thick portion (unstretched portion) becomes too long in the first-stage stretching region employing a low stretching ratio, but also the thick portion is subjected to heat treatment such as false twisting and dyeing. When it is embrittled by alkali treatment, processing stability and quality are impaired, and when the birefringence exceeds 40 × 10 −3 , the difference in shrinkage between the thick part and the small part is small, and the swelling is lacking.

【0006】本発明においては、太細糸の染色での濃淡
コントラストを強くするため、ポリエステル未延伸糸
を、定張力下にエアー交絡処理して30〜150個/
m、好ましくは50〜120個/mの交絡を付与する。
交絡の付与は、フィラメント間に結節部を形成させるこ
とで各フィラメントに延伸点がランダムに発生すること
を阻害するもので、後の2段延伸により形成される太部
と細部の分散を集中局在化させる。交絡が30個/m未
満では、フィラメント間の太部と細部の分散が密となり
すぎ、濃淡コントラストが弱く、150個/mを超える
と、フィラメント間の太部と細部の分散が不能となる。
In the present invention, in order to enhance the contrast of light and thick yarns in dyeing, the polyester undrawn yarn is air-entangled under a constant tension to obtain 30 to 150 yarns.
m, preferably 50 to 120 entanglements / m.
The entanglement is to prevent knots from being formed between the filaments so that the drawing points are not randomly generated in each filament. Localization. When the confounding is less than 30 filaments / m, the dispersion of the thick part and the details between the filaments becomes too dense, and the contrast of the light and shade is weak. When it exceeds 150 filaments / m, the dispersion of the thick part and the details between the filaments becomes impossible.

【0007】エアー交絡処理は、定張力下で実施される
ことが必要であり、エアー交絡装置に至る直前の糸張力
が0.01〜0.05g/dの範囲から選ばれる一定の
張力下で実施されるることが糸の走行安定性、交絡形成
の点で好ましい。糸張力が変動する場合には、太部と細
部の分散パターンが変動し、染め品質的に良好な布帛が
得られない。エアー圧は、1〜3kg/cm2が適当で
あり、エアー交絡装置としては、図3(a)、(b)に
示したようなパラレルプレートタイプ、シリンダータイ
プ等任意の装置が使用される。
The air entanglement treatment needs to be performed under a constant tension, and the yarn tension immediately before reaching the air entanglement device is a constant tension selected from the range of 0.01 to 0.05 g / d. Carrying out is preferable in terms of running stability of the yarn and formation of entanglement. When the yarn tension fluctuates, the dispersion pattern of the thick part and the fine part fluctuates, and a fabric having good dyeing quality cannot be obtained. An appropriate air pressure is 1 to 3 kg / cm 2 , and any device such as a parallel plate type or a cylinder type as shown in FIGS. 3A and 3B is used as an air entanglement device.

【0008】次いで、本発明においては、エアー交絡処
理未延伸糸を、太部と細部を分散させて形成するため、
2段延伸する。第1段延伸における加熱温度は、未延伸
糸の結晶化温度以下とし、延伸倍率DR1は、MDR×
(0.40〜0.50)と低めに設定し延伸する。な
お、使用する未延伸糸の複屈折率の違いによりMDRの
利用率が異なるので、第1段延伸で得られる太細糸の残
留伸度が70〜110%となるように設定するのが望ま
しい。この第1段延伸で得られる太細糸は、太部が比較
的長く、高伸度、高収縮率で、太部と細部との繊度差の
大きい糸となっている。
Next, in the present invention, the air-entangled undrawn yarn is formed by dispersing the thick portion and the details.
It is stretched in two steps. The heating temperature in the first-stage drawing is equal to or lower than the crystallization temperature of the undrawn yarn, and the draw ratio DR 1 is MDR ×
(0.40 to 0.50) and stretch. Since the utilization of MDR varies depending on the difference in the birefringence of the undrawn yarn used, it is preferable to set the residual elongation of the thick and thin yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing to be 70 to 110%. . The thick and thin yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing has a relatively long thick portion, a high elongation and a high shrinkage, and a large difference in fineness between the thick portion and the details.

【0009】第1段延伸で得られた太細糸は、第2段延
伸で、総延伸倍率TDRがMDR×(0.45〜0.5
5)となる延伸倍率DR2で追加延伸し、第2段延伸域
で目的とする収縮率を与えるよう設定したガラス転移温
度以上結晶化温度以下の温度で熱処理する。この第2段
延伸により、染色での濃淡コントラストが強く、かつ太
部と細部が短くランダムに分散した杢調太細糸が得られ
る。
The thick and thin yarn obtained in the first-stage drawing is subjected to the second-stage drawing and the total drawing ratio TDR is MDR × (0.45 to 0.5
5) and a draw ratio add stretching in DR 2, the heat treatment at the second stage or above the glass transition temperature was set to provide a shrinkage of interest at a stretching zone the crystallization temperature or lower. By this second-stage stretching, a thick heat-and-thin yarn in which the contrast between dyeings is strong and the thick part and details are short and randomly dispersed is obtained.

【0010】[0010]

【実施例】以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明す
る。なお、測定項目は、次の方法に拠った。 エアー交絡数:未延伸糸の交絡数は、延伸糸の交絡数を
ロスシルド/セラニーズ製ニードルプルテスターR−2
040を使用して測定し、延伸倍率を乗じた数値とし
た。
The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. The measurement items were based on the following method. The number of entangled air: The number of entangled undrawn yarns is the number of entangled drawn yarns determined by the Ross Pull / Celanese needle pull tester R-2.
040, and a numerical value obtained by multiplying by the stretching ratio.

【0011】(実施例1〜3、比較例1〜3)酸化チタ
ンを0.5重量%含む固有粘度0.65のポリエチレン
テレフタレートを、孔径0.2mmの孔を72個有する
紡糸ノズルにより紡糸温度290℃、巻取速度1700
m/分で紡糸して180d/72fの未延伸糸を得た。
得られた未延伸糸は、ディラトメトリー法で測定したガ
ラス転移温度が72℃、走査型熱量計で測定した結晶化
温度が129℃、複屈折率が31×10-3であった。こ
の未延伸糸を、オーバーフィード率0.5〜1.0%、
エアー交絡装置直前の糸張力2〜4g(0.01〜0.
02g/d)、エアー圧1〜3kg/cm2の条件で図
3(a)に示すエアー交絡装置を使用してエアー交絡処
理し、次に延伸倍率1.494倍、温度110℃で第1
段延伸し、引き続き、延伸倍率1.015倍、温度12
0℃で延伸と同時熱処理の第2段延伸して太細糸を得
た。得られた太細糸の糸質を表1に示した。比較例1〜
3として本発明の条件外で得た太細糸の糸質も表1に示
した。なお、実施例2で得た太細糸の繊度斑チャートを
図1に、また比較例3で得た太細糸の繊度斑チャートを
図2に示した。
(Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-3) Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide and having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was spun at a spinning temperature of 72 using a spinning nozzle having 72 holes having a diameter of 0.2 mm. 290 ° C, winding speed 1700
The yarn was spun at m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 180d / 72f.
The obtained undrawn yarn had a glass transition temperature of 72 ° C. measured by dilatometry, a crystallization temperature of 129 ° C. measured by a scanning calorimeter, and a birefringence of 31 × 10 −3 . This unstretched yarn has an overfeed rate of 0.5 to 1.0%,
Yarn tension of 2-4 g (0.01-0. 0 g) just before the air entanglement device.
Air entanglement treatment using an air entanglement device shown in FIG. 3A under the conditions of 02 g / d) and an air pressure of 1 to 3 kg / cm 2 , and then a first draw ratio of 1.494 times and a temperature of 110 ° C.
Step stretching, followed by a stretching ratio of 1.015 times and a temperature of 12
The second stage of stretching and simultaneous heat treatment at 0 ° C. was performed to obtain a thick and thin yarn. Table 1 shows the quality of the obtained thick and thin yarns. Comparative Examples 1 to
Table 1 also shows the yarn quality of the thick and thin yarn obtained as No. 3 outside the conditions of the present invention. The fineness unevenness chart of the thick and thin yarn obtained in Example 2 is shown in FIG. 1, and the fineness unevenness chart of the thick and thin yarn obtained in Comparative Example 3 is shown in FIG.

【0012】[0012]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0013】(実施例5〜8、比較例4)酸化チタンを
0.5重量%含む固有粘度0.65のポリエチレンテレ
フタレートを、36孔の三角断面紡糸ノズルにより紡糸
温度290℃、巻取速度1800m/分で紡糸して11
5d/36fの未延伸糸を得た。得られた未延伸糸は、
ディラトメトリー法で測定したガラス転移温度が72
℃、走査型熱量計で測定した結晶化温度が129℃、複
屈折率が31×10-3であった。この未延伸糸を、オー
バーフィード率0.5〜1.0%、エアー交絡装置直前
の糸張力1.5〜2.5g(0.01〜0.02g/
d)、エアー圧1〜3kg/cm2の条件で図3(a)
に示すエアー交絡装置を使用してエアー交絡処理し、次
に延伸倍率1.480倍、温度95℃で第1段延伸し、
引き続き、延伸倍率1.115倍、温度120℃で延伸
と同時熱処理の第2段延伸して太細糸を得た。得られた
太細糸の糸質を表2に示した。比較例4として本発明の
条件外で得た太細糸の糸質も表2に示した。
(Examples 5 to 8 and Comparative Example 4) Polyethylene terephthalate containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide and having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was spun through a 36-hole triangular cross-section spinning nozzle at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a winding speed of 1800 m. / Minute spinning at 11
An undrawn yarn of 5d / 36f was obtained. The obtained undrawn yarn is
Glass transition temperature of 72 measured by dilatometry
C., the crystallization temperature measured by a scanning calorimeter was 129 ° C., and the birefringence was 31 × 10 −3 . The undrawn yarn is supplied with an overfeed rate of 0.5 to 1.0% and a yarn tension of 1.5 to 2.5 g (0.01 to 0.02 g /
d), FIG. 3 (a) under the condition of air pressure of 1 to 3 kg / cm 2
Air entanglement treatment using an air entanglement device shown in the following, then stretched at a stretching ratio of 1.480 times, at a temperature of 95 ° C. in the first stage,
Subsequently, a second step of stretching and simultaneous heat treatment at a stretching ratio of 1.115 and a temperature of 120 ° C. was performed to obtain a thick and thin yarn. Table 2 shows the quality of the obtained thick and thin yarns. Table 2 also shows, as Comparative Example 4, the quality of the thick and thin yarn obtained outside the conditions of the present invention.

【0014】[0014]

【表2】 [Table 2]

【0015】[0015]

【発明の効果】本発明によれば、エアー交絡の付与によ
り太部と細部の過度の分散を抑制したことにより、カジ
ュアル調外観の衣料を表現するに好適な太部と細部の染
色での濃淡コントラストが強く、かつ太部と細部の分散
が密でランダムな杢調太細糸を安定に得ることができ、
従来の霜降り調太細糸やスラブ調太細糸とは異なる太細
糸を提供しうる。
According to the present invention, by applying air confounding, excessive dispersion of thick portions and details is suppressed, so that the thick portions and details are suitable for expressing clothing having a casual appearance, and the shading of the details is dyed. The contrast is strong, and the dispersion of the thick part and the details is dense, and it is possible to stably obtain a random heather-like thick thread,
It is possible to provide a thick and thin thread different from the conventional marbled and thick slab-like thick and thin threads.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】実施例2で得た太細糸の繊度斑チャート図であ
る。
FIG. 1 is a chart of fineness unevenness chart of thick and thin yarn obtained in Example 2.

【図2】比較例3で得た太細糸の繊度斑チャート図であ
る。
FIG. 2 is a chart of fineness unevenness chart of a thick and thin yarn obtained in Comparative Example 3.

【図3】本発明で使用しうるエアー交絡装置の例の側面
及び平面図である。
FIG. 3 is a side view and a plan view of an example of an air entanglement device that can be used in the present invention.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

a パラレルプレートタイプ b シリンダータイプ a Parallel plate type b Cylinder type

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.7 識別記号 FI D02J 1/00 D02J 1/00 L (56)参考文献 特開 平1−148823(JP,A) 特開 昭62−133118(JP,A) 特開 昭57−193539(JP,A) 特開 平3−241024(JP,A) 特開 昭64−26748(JP,A) 特開 昭63−211318(JP,A) 特開 昭62−41342(JP,A) 特開 昭59−9211(JP,A) 特開 昭61−146836(JP,A) 特開 昭60−194115(JP,A) (58)調査した分野(Int.Cl.7,DB名) D02J 1/00 - 1/22 D01F 6/62 D02G 3/00 - 3/48 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 7 Identification symbol FI D02J 1/00 D02J 1/00 L (56) References JP-A-1-148823 (JP, A) JP-A-62-133118 ( JP, A) JP-A-57-193539 (JP, A) JP-A-3-241024 (JP, A) JP-A-64-26748 (JP, A) JP-A-63-121318 (JP, A) JP-A-62-41342 (JP, A) JP-A-59-9121 (JP, A) JP-A-61-146836 (JP, A) JP-A-60-194115 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int) .Cl. 7 , DB name) D02J 1/00-1/22 D01F 6/62 D02G 3/00-3/48

Claims (1)

(57)【特許請求の範囲】(57) [Claims] 【請求項1】 複屈折率が15×10-3〜40×10-3
であるポリエステル未延伸糸を、定張力下にエアー交絡
処理して30〜150個/mの交絡を付与し、引き続
き、下式(1)〜(5)を満たす条件で2段延伸するこ
とを特徴とするポリエステル杢調太細糸の製造方法。 (1)TDR=MDR×(0.45〜0.55) (2)TDR=DR1×DR2 (3)DR1=MDR×(0.40〜0.50) (4)HRT≦Tc (5)Tg≦HPT≦Tc 但し、式中、TDRは総延伸倍率、DR1は第1段延伸
倍率、DR2は第2段延伸倍率、MDRは上記未延伸糸
の最大延伸倍率、HRTは第1段延伸における温度
(℃)、HPTは第2段延伸域における温度(℃)、T
cは上記未延伸糸の結晶化温度(℃)、Tgは上記未延
伸糸のガラス転移温度(℃)である。
1. A birefringence of 15 × 10 −3 to 40 × 10 −3.
The polyester unstretched yarn is air entangled under constant tension to give 30 to 150 entangled yarns / m, followed by two-stage drawing under the conditions satisfying the following formulas (1) to (5). Characteristic method of producing polyester heather-like thick and thin yarn. (1) TDR = MDR × (0.45 to 0.55) (2) TDR = DR 1 × DR 2 (3) DR 1 = MDR × (0.40 to 0.50) (4) HRT ≦ Tc ( 5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, DR 1 is the first draw ratio, DR 2 is the second draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, and HRT is the first draw ratio. The temperature (° C.) in the first-stage stretching, the HPT is the temperature (° C.) in the second-stage stretching zone, T
c is the crystallization temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg is the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn.
JP20995993A 1993-08-03 1993-08-03 Manufacturing method of polyester heather-like thick and thin yarn Expired - Lifetime JP3244150B2 (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP20995993A JP3244150B2 (en) 1993-08-03 1993-08-03 Manufacturing method of polyester heather-like thick and thin yarn

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JPH0748746A JPH0748746A (en) 1995-02-21
JP3244150B2 true JP3244150B2 (en) 2002-01-07

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TW371679B (en) * 1996-02-21 1999-10-11 Toray Industries Method for producing coarse and fine polyesteramide staple
DE19640405C2 (en) * 1996-09-30 2000-08-24 Zinser Textilmaschinen Gmbh Method and device for producing thick spots in a filament yarn
DE19641906A1 (en) * 1996-10-22 1998-04-23 Zinser Textilmaschinen Gmbh Method and device for producing a fancy yarn from an endless synthetic filament yarn

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