JP3593641B2 - Composite crimped yarn, method for producing the same, and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a composite crimped yarn composed of two or more types of multifilament yarns, a method for producing the same, and a knitted fabric using the composite crimped yarn. Composite crimped yarn with a core-sheath structure suitable for providing a knitted fabric with a soft swelling feeling and a drape property together with a firmness and a moderate elasticity to improve wearing comfort and sewing performance And a method for producing the same, and a knitted fabric using the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, when aligning and twisting two or more filament yarns having a difference in elongation, using side-by-side type conjugate filament yarn, there is a sense of bulkiness and swelling, there is a firmness, bulkiness and stretch. There has been proposed a composite bulked yarn having properties. For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 2-55534 discloses that the elongation at break is 40% or less and the intrinsic viscosity [η]_f  Are side-by-side composite yarns of polyethylene terephthalate polymer different from each other, and unstretched polyethylene terephthalate yarns having a breaking elongation of 100 to 200% are aligned and entangled, then false twisted, stretchable and spun like. A crimped yarn having a texture and a touch is described.
[0003]
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2-175935, at least two types of polyester undrawn yarns having a difference in elongation are drawn and simultaneously twisted at a draw ratio of 1.2 or more, and then entangled to obtain a yarn length difference. When producing a composite processed yarn having a core-sheath structure of 13% to 25%, the stretchability is utilized by using a side-by-side type conjugate yarn as an undrawn yarn having a low elongation, and is particularly applied to sports-related clothing. Stretchable composite bulky yarns have been proposed. In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 7-3562, a bulky processed yarn having a bulky and swelling feeling and having a firmness and a firmness, having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or less and a crimping rate of 30% after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 30%. A bulky processed yarn in which the above-described side-by-side type polyester latently crimped conjugate fiber and a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn are simultaneously false-stretched has been proposed.
[0004]
Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-31533 discloses a composite crimped yarn composed of at least two types of multifilament yarns, one of which is a crimped yarn obtained by bonding at least two-component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages from each other. A conjugated multifilament yarn, which is disposed as a main component in an inner layer of the composite crimped yarn, and another type is composed of a synthetic polymer and has a yarn length of 5 to 35 times longer than the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn. % Crimped multifilament yarns which are arranged as a main component in the outer layer of the composite crimped yarn have been proposed.
[0005]
These composite crimped yarns can be twisted into a woven fabric to give the woven fabric a soft swelling feeling, firmness and stiffness, and excellent drapability, and also provide an appropriate stretchability. it can. Due to its elasticity, puckering does not occur at the time of sewing, thereby enabling tailoring and good-looking sewing.
[0006]
However, in the case of the composite crimped yarn according to the mixing of two or more different types of multifilament yarns using the crimped conjugate multifilament yarns, and the knitted fabric using the same, all of the coloring properties in the dyeing process are used. There is still a problem, for example, in the case of using polyester fiber, there is a problem particularly in black color development, and further higher color development was expected. Further, in the case of a knitted fabric using a conventional composite yarn, few knitted fabrics have both bulkiness, resilience, and stretchability, and tailoring appearance and wearing comfort are just one step away.
[0007]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention particularly relates to composite crimped yarns and knitted fabrics using such crimped conjugate multifilament yarns, and in particular, tailoring appearance and wearing comfort with high color development and high quality, which are problems that have been left so far. It has been achieved as a result of intensive research aimed at improvement.
[0008]
An object of the present invention is to provide a crimped conjugate which is capable of obtaining a knitted fabric having an appropriate stretchability suitable for black formal wear, which is excellent in warmness, swelling feeling and high resilience, and particularly greatly improved black coloration. It is an object of the present invention to provide a core-sheath composite crimped yarn using a multifilament yarn and a method for producing the same.
[0009]
Another object of the present invention is to provide a knitted woven fabric having a moderate wool-like swelling feeling when knitted and woven, and having a drape property together with elasticity and a suitable stretchability for improving sewing properties. An object of the present invention is to provide a composite crimped yarn having a core-sheath structure using a suitable crimped conjugate multifilament yarn.
[0010]
Another object of the present invention is to provide a composite crimped yarn having high shrinkage and easy handling which can obtain a high-density knitted fabric while maintaining the excellent bulkiness of the composite crimped yarn having a core-sheath structure. To provide.
[0011]
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a high-quality texture composed of such a composite crimped yarn, which has a rich swelling feeling and high resilience, has a dense and supple touch, and particularly has a greatly improved color development of black. It is an object of the present invention to provide a knitted fabric suitable for black formal wear which is tailored by moderate elasticity and has a good appearance and is comfortable to wear.
[0012]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention achieves the above object, and the composite crimped yarn of the present invention is a composite crimped yarn composed of at least two types of multifilament yarns, one of which is different in heat shrinkability. A crimped conjugate multifilament yarn composed of at least two components of a synthetic polymer, wherein the multifilament yarn is mainly disposed as a core yarn in an inner layer of the composite crimped yarn, and another type is composed of a synthetic polymer, and A crimped multifilament yarn having a yarn length of preferably 5 to 35%, more preferably 10 to 25% longer than that of the multifilament yarn, which is mainly arranged as a sheath yarn on the outer layer of the composite crimped yarn; A part of the crimped multifilament yarn is mixed in the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the above, and the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn is mixed with the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn. In the composite crimped yarn in which a part of the gate multifilament yarn is mixed, the crimped multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn has (1) a boiling yield of 2 to 5% and (2) an elongation of 60. The composite crimped yarn has (3) a boiling yield of 5 to 10%, (4) a dry yield of 7 to 18%, and (5) a crimp restoring ratio CR of 20 to 40%. It is characterized by being.
[0013]
Preferred embodiments of the present invention include at least the following embodiments.
(1) The composite crimped yarn has a twist coefficient α defined by the following equation:₁Is in the state of being given a twist of 6,700 to 20,200, the crimp restoring rate CR is 18 to 40%, and the crimp onset elongation rate TR is 8 to 25%. α₁= T₁× D₁ ^1/2[However, T₁: Number of twists (times / m), D₁: Total denier]
(2) The single-filament fineness of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn is larger than that of the crimped multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn, and the crimped conjugate multifilament constituting the core yarn is large. The single yarn fineness of the filament is 2d or more, and the single yarn fineness of the crimped multifilament constituting the sheath yarn is 3d or less.
(3) The birefringence Δn of the crimped multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn is smaller than that of the crimped conjugate multifilament single yarn constituting the core yarn, and the crimped multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn is small. The birefringence Δn of the yarn is 100 × 10^-3Below, particularly preferably 80 × 10^-3It must be:
(4) A knitted woven fabric composed of the above-described composite crimped yarn, and preferably, a twist coefficient α defined by the following formula for the composite crimped yarn:₁Are given in the range of 8,000 to 24,000, and the elongation of at least one of the processes is 3 to 25%, and the L value is 8.5 to 12, more preferably 8. 5 to 11.5. α₁= T₁× D₁ ^1/2[However, T₁: Number of twists (times / m), D₁: Total denier]
Further, the composite crimped yarn of the present invention comprises a conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are bonded to each other, and a synthetic weight having an elongation larger than that of the conjugated multifilament yarn. A method for producing a composite crimped yarn composed of a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn and a crimped multifilament yarn by simultaneously aligning the multifilament yarn composed of the unified multifilament yarn and performing a composite false twisting process. The yarn is fed such that the yarn length is 5 to 35%, preferably 10 to 25% longer than the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn, and the false twist temperature is 140 to 200 ° C and the number of false twists T₂= Α₂/ D₂ ^1/2[However, α₂Is a twist coefficient of 13,500 to 23,000, D₂Is manufactured by false twisting under the condition of core yarn denier].
[0014]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
[0015]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
In the composite crimped yarn before heating of the present invention, a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn A composed of a two-component synthetic polymer having different heat shrinkage is mainly used as a core yarn on the inner layer side of the composite crimped yarn. The crimped multifilament yarn B composed of a synthetic polymer component is arranged and mainly arranged as a sheath yarn on the outer layer side of the composite crimped yarn. Here, two or more types of each of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn A and the crimped multifilament yarn B can be mixed.
[0016]
In the present invention, the crimped multifilament yarn B has a yarn length difference ΔL that is 5 to 35%, more preferably 10 to 25% longer than that of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn A, Further, a part of the outer-layer crimped multifilament yarn B is mixed with the inner layer of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn A, and the inner layer of the crimped conjugate multifilament B is positioned on the outer layer. Part of the filament yarn A is in a mixed form. Therefore, in the composite crimped yarn of the present invention, even when twisted, a part of the outer crimped multifilament yarn is mixed with the inner crimped conjugate multifilament yarn. The three-dimensional crimps of the constituent filaments of the multifilament yarn are out of phase with each other without much convergence, and partially appear on the surface of the composite crimped yarn. Therefore, the crimp development of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn can overcome the binding force of the twist, and even when the number of twists increases, the crimp restoring rate CR and the crimp onset elongation rate that are exhibited when there is no twist. Compared with TR, the reduction in the crimp restoring rate CR and the crimp expression elongation rate TR is reduced, and excellent stretchability is exhibited.
[0017]
Therefore, the composite crimped yarn of the present invention has a suitable elasticity even with a large number of twists for imparting drapeability. This composite crimped yarn has a twist coefficient α₁  In a state in which a twist in the range of 6,700 to 20,200 is given, a crimp restoring rate CR of 18% or more and a crimp development elongation rate TR of 8% or more exhibit elasticity. Preferably, the composite crimped yarn has a crimp restoring rate CR of 18 to 40%, more preferably 18 to 35%, and a crimp onset elongation rate TR of 8 to 25%, more preferably 8 to 20%. Can be. In the practice of the present invention, the composite crimped yarn is twisted in advance before being made into a fabric such as a woven fabric, and the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn A of the core yarn is wound around the crimped multifilament yarn B of the sheath yarn. become.
[0018]
In the present invention, the length of the crimped multifilament yarn is set to 5 to 35%, preferably 10 to 25% longer than that of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn, and the yarn length difference ΔL is set, so that the crimped conjugate of the core yarn is formed. The crimping work of the multifilament yarn works effectively. When the yarn length difference ΔL is small, the crimping of the core yarn conjugated multifilament yarn becomes poor due to the restraining force of twisting. Conversely, when the yarn length difference ΔL is large, the twisting tension during the twisting operation is reduced. And the binding force of the sheath yarn becomes too large, so that the crimp expression power of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is reduced and the elasticity is poor.
[0019]
Such a yarn length difference ΔL is adjusted by adjusting the yarn length difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn by supplying a larger amount of the sheath yarn than the core yarn when the core yarn and the sheath yarn are subjected to, for example, false twisting. It can also be obtained by feeding at different speeds to the twisting area, but also by using a core yarn of a low elongation yarn and a sheath yarn of a high elongation yarn having extremely different elongations, for example, by high-speed spinning. It can also be obtained by aligning the obtained partially oriented yarn (POY) and supplying it to the false twist region. Furthermore, it can also be obtained by setting the number of false twists, that is, by setting the degree of twist stretching of the sheath yarn of the high elongation yarn.
[0020]
Further, in the composite crimped yarn of the present invention, there is a preferable range for the single-filament fineness of the multifilament constituting the core yarn and the sheath yarn. That is, the single-filament fineness of the conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn is equal to or larger than that of the sheath yarn. The difference in single yarn fineness between the two multifilament yarns is preferably within 10d, and particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 6d. The fineness of the multifilament single yarn constituting the core yarn is 2d or more, more preferably 5 to 10d. If it is less than 2d, sufficient crimp cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 10d, the texture of the fabric tends to be hard. Further, the single-filament fineness of the multifilament yarn of the sheath yarn is preferably 0.01 to 3 d fineness since it mainly contributes to the texture of the fabric.
[0021]
In the composite crimped yarn of the present invention, a preferable birefringence Δn value can be set together with the fineness from the relation of high color development. That is, the birefringence Δn of the multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn of the composite crimped yarn is smaller than that of the core yarn, and the birefringence Δn of the multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn is preferably 100 × 10 4^-3Below, more preferably 90 × 10^-3~ 50 × 10^-3It is.
[0022]
In the present invention, as the multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn, a drawn yarn may be used, but it is preferable to use a semi-drawn yarn as a raw yarn before false twisting, and a thick and thin yarn can be used if necessary. . In the case of thick and thin yarn, the thick part is stretched more than the thin part during false twisting, and the migration of the inner layer to the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn side is promoted, so that the effect of expressing elasticity can be enhanced. it can. In addition, due to the uneven orientation in the length direction of the thick and thin yarn, stretching and false twisting are started at a plurality of random locations by false twisting, thereby increasing the migration effect. Since the crimped form of the thick and thin yarn becomes large in the outer layer due to the action of the undrawn portion, tightening of the core yarn at the time of twisting is reduced, which effectively contributes to the stretchability of the composite crimped yarn.
[0023]
Another feature of the present invention is the characteristics of the crimped multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn, which has a boiling point of 2 to 5%, an elongation of 60 to 100%, and a birefringence Δn of 100 × 10 5.^-3It is as follows.
[0024]
The properties of such a sheath yarn are as follows: the heater temperature at the time of false twisting is 140 to 200 ° C .;₂= Α₂/ D₂ ^1/2(However, twist coefficient α₂: 13,500-23,000, D₂: Core yarn denier].
[0025]
In the present invention, with respect to the individual multifilaments constituting the core yarn, the individual multifilaments constituting the sheath yarn swell outside the composite crimped yarn to form a swelling portion. The sheath yarn realizes a composite crimped yarn suitable for a high-density knitted fabric with a rich swelling and a dense and supple touch. Since the fineness of the multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn is smaller than that of the core yarn as described above, if the crystallinity is the same, the color developability of the sheath yarn is inferior. Therefore, the birefringence Δn of the single yarn on the side of the fine yarn of the sheath yarn is suppressed low as described above, and the original yarn having low orientation and high color development is obtained.
[0026]
Although the sheath yarn is made of a synthetic polymer, thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester-based synthetic fibers and polyamide-based synthetic fibers are preferable from the viewpoint of shrinkage in a heat treatment step such as crimping, shape fixation, and the like. Cationic dyeable polyether fibers are also used, and polyester synthetic fibers are most suitable for the purpose of the present invention.
[0027]
On the other hand, the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn of the core yarn expresses bulkiness due to shrinkage and gives a moderate crimp and high resilience in the composite crimped yarn, but similarly from the viewpoint of heat shrinkage behavior, it will be described later. As described above, thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester synthetic fibers are preferably used.
[0028]
As the two-component polyester polymer having different shrinkages, one having a low-viscosity polyester component and one having a high-viscosity polyester component can be preferably selected. The intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.43 to 0.55, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.68 to 0.85. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.43, crimping becomes poor, and it becomes difficult to obtain elasticity of the composite crimped yarn when twisted. On the other hand, when the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.85, spinning becomes difficult because the melt viscosity increases. The difference between the intrinsic viscosities of the two components is preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.40. When the intrinsic viscosity is less than 0.20, the crimping expression becomes poor, so that it becomes difficult to obtain the elasticity of the composite crimped yarn. Beyond this, spinning becomes unstable.
[0029]
Further, the composite ratio of both components is preferably from 40:60 to 60:40. Outside this range, the number of additional twists increases after false twisting with the sheath yarn to form a composite crimped yarn. At the same time, the crimp expression elongation rate TR tends to decrease. This becomes more remarkable as the yarn length difference ΔL between the core yarn and the sheath yarn increases.
[0030]
The conjugated multifilament yarn used in the present invention is a composite in which both components are laminated in parallel or combined so as to be eccentrically arranged in a core component and a sheath component. It is a yarn that exhibits a three-dimensional crimp shape.
[0031]
As the polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage, polyethylene terephthalate alone or a copolymer containing at least 80 mol% of polyethylene terephthalate is preferable. In the core yarn, a synthetic fiber containing a copolymer can be used in order to give greater shrinkage and coloring. Examples of the copolymerization component include known components such as isophthalic acid, adipic acid, bisphenols, and polyethylene glycol.
[0032]
In the composite crimped yarn of the present invention, the core yarn is located in the inner layer and the sheath yarn is located in the outer layer. However, the composite crimped yarn of the present invention usually comprises such a core yarn and the sheath yarn by an air entanglement treatment. The individual multifilaments are entangled with each other. When the ratio between the two in the composite crimped yarn is represented by the core yarn forming the inner layer, it is preferable that the weight ratio occupies 30 to 70% of the entire composite yarn. If the amount is less than 30% by weight, the appearance of crimp will be small under the restraining force of the twisted twist, and if it exceeds 70% by weight, the softness and swelling tend to be lacking.
[0033]
Yet another feature of the present invention is that the composite crimped yarn itself has suitable properties, with a boiling yield of 5 to 10%, more preferably 6 to 9%, and a dry yield of 7 to 18%, more preferably 10 to 10%. １５15%, and the crimp restoring ratio CR is preferably 20-40%, more preferably 25-35%.
[0034]
The composite crimped yarn of the present invention is obtained by combining the multifilaments with each other by combining the low-orientation and high-color-forming sheath yarn and the high-color and high-repulsion core yarn as described above. Outstanding black high color development, rich swelling and dense and supple touch, tailoring with moderate elasticity, moderate firmness and resilience are given.
[0035]
The composite crimped yarn of the present invention having the above characteristics is knitted and woven using the warp or the weft of the woven fabric, or both, and makes the difference in shrinkage in the core-sheath yarn evident by heat treatment in a dyeing step and the like. A woven fabric having a moderate swelling property and a moderate stretch property as well as a soft swelling and drape property can be obtained. The composite crimped yarn of the present invention is applied not only to woven fabric but also to knitted fabric.
[0036]
The knitted fabric of the present invention is dyed according to a conventional method, and the L value of the knitted fabric here is 8.5 to 12, more preferably 8.5 to 11.5, and further preferably 8. 5 to 10.5. The L value was quantified with a "HYPER CCM system" (Xcom) using a spectrophotometer "COLOR-EYE" manufactured by MACBETH.
[0037]
The composite crimped yarn of the present invention preferably has a twist coefficient α₁Is twisted at 6,700 to 20,200, and the twist of the composite crimped yarn in the woven fabric after dyeing is in the range of about 8,000 to about 24,000 from the initial twist coefficient range. And the elongation ST of the woven fabric is about 3 to about 25% in the warp direction and / or the weft direction.
[0038]
Thus, the twist coefficient α₁Is changed because the composite crimped yarn shrinks during the dyeing process, and when the twisting coefficient is out of these ranges, the woven fabric is inferior in drape property and the high quality feel is reduced, and the comfort when worn is reduced. When the elongation ratio ST is less than 3%, puckering occurs during sewing, and tailoring appearance is deteriorated. When the elongation ratio ST exceeds 25%, comfort when worn tends to decrease.
[0039]
Surprisingly, the knitted fabric of the present invention, despite being composed of a synthetic polymer as described above, enables tailoring of high black color development and high quality that could not be obtained by the prior art, and in particular, black formal wear. New developments are expected in this field.
[0040]
Next, a method for producing a composite crimped yarn of the present invention will be described.
[0041]
FIG. 1 shows the steps in the case where the composite crimped yarn according to the present invention is produced by the elongation difference composite false twisting method. In FIG. 1, a package 1 wound with a multifilament yarn B having relatively high elongation obtained by a high-speed spinning method and a package 2 wound with a conjugate multifilament yarn Y having different heat shrinkage are prepared. ing.
[0042]
The multifilament raw yarn B is previously drawn at a low magnification between the roller 3 and the roller 5 and heat-treated by the heater 4 to form a thick-and-shear yarn and supplied from the supply roller 3 '. The conjugate multifilament raw yarn A and the roller 6 are aligned. Next, both multifilament yarns A and B are entangled by compressed air by an entanglement nozzle 7 provided between the roller 6 and the roller 8, and then a false twist heater 9 provided between the roller 8 and the roller 11. The false twisting process is performed by the false twisting spindle 10 to form a composite crimped yarn, which is wound by the winding device 12. The multifilament yarn B having a high elongation is elongated in the false twist zone between the roller 8 and the roller 11, and a yarn length difference is generated between the multifilament yarn A having a low elongation and the conjugate multifilament yarn A. A crimped yarn is obtained.
[0043]
FIG. 2 shows the steps in the case of producing a composite crimped yarn by the feed difference composite false twisting method or the elongation difference differential false twisting method that does not require hot stretching before false twisting. In FIG. 2, the multifilament yarn B of the package 1 'and the conjugate multifilament yarn A of the package 2 are fed from the supply rollers 3, 3' respectively in the case of the feed difference composite false twisting method. B is aligned by the alignment guide 13 while overfeeding B over the latter original yarn A. Next, a false twisting process is performed at the same time as the drawing by a false twist heater 9 and a false twist spindle 10 provided between the rollers 8 and 11 to form a composite crimped yarn, and an entangled nozzle provided between the rollers 11 and 11 ′. After being entangled by the compressed air from the winding device 12, it is wound up by the winding device 12.
[0044]
In the case of the elongation difference composite false twisting method, both yarns A and B are fed from the supply rollers 3 and 3 'to the false twisting zone at the same supply speed, and the same false twisting is performed.
[0045]
In the practice of the present invention, when the sheath yarn is a thick and thin yarn, a semi-drawn yarn is used as a raw yarn of the multifilament B. In FIG. It is preferable to make the wool yarn unevenness U% value to 1.4 to 5% after false twisting. When a drawn yarn is used as the raw yarn of the multifilament B previously processed to be thick and thin, the same processing can be performed by the feed difference composite false twist processing method shown in FIG.
[0046]
As another method, two types of mixed filament multifilament yarns having different elongations, consisting of a regular polyester multifilament semi-drawn yarn and a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament semi-drawn yarn, using multifilament B as a raw yarn, are used. Thus, a similar spanned fabric can be obtained. This twisted multifilament yarn is twisted in advance in accordance with the process shown in FIG. 2 and then composite false-twisted with conjugate multifilament A to form a composite crimped yarn. The woven fabric which has been woven and subjected to alkali weight reduction by dyeing has fluffing of the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament in the composite crimped yarn, and has a structure mixed in the inner layer and the outer layer of the composite crimped yarn. Therefore, the woven fabric has a texture of a spun-tone woven fabric having a moderate fluff. The twist of the composite crimped yarn constituting this woven fabric has a twist coefficient α in the range of 6,700 to 18,000 due to the alkali weight loss. Of course, the woven fabric has a drape property as well as the original stretchability of 3 to 25%.
[0047]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to Examples. The difference in yarn length, the difference in shrinkage, and the like refer to those measured as follows.
(1) Thread length difference ΔL:
Apply a load of 0.1 g / dk to the yarn and mark 1 m. Thereafter, the two yarns are separated, each length is measured, and the length of the core yarn (L₀) And the length of the sheath thread (L₁) Is measured and calculated by the following equation.
[0048]
Thread length difference ΔL = [(L₁-L₀) / L₀] × 100
(2) Twist coefficient α₁:
Twist coefficient α₁Is the following equation, twist coefficient α₁= T₁× D₁ ^1/2[However, T₁: Number of twists (times / m)
D₁: Fineness (denier) of the composite crimped yarn].
(3) Crimp restoration rate CR:
It refers to the value measured by the method specified in JIS L1090 (Synthetic fiber multifilament bulked yarn testing method).
(4) Crimp expression elongation rate TR:
The composite crimped yarn of the sample is wound five times around a skein, and a load of 0.02 times the apparent fineness D (0.02 × D (g)) is applied, and 150 ± 2 ° C. for 5 minutes. Length L after heat treatment₀  Is measured. Next, the length L when a constant load (0.1 × D (g)) of 0.1 times the apparent fineness D is applied to the composite crimped yarn.₁  Is calculated by the following equation.
[0049]
Crimp expression elongation rate TR = [(L₀-L₁) / L₁] × 100
(5) Boiling:
It is indicated by the hot water shrinkage at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes. The length of the composite yarn under a load of 0.1 g / d is L₁  And The length when subjected to no-tension treatment in hot water of 98 ° C for 20 minutes is L₀  And it is obtained by the following equation.
[0050]
Boiling yield = [(L₁-L₀) / L₀)] × 100
▲ 6 ▼ Dry harvest:
It is indicated by a dry heat shrinkage of 180 ° C. for 3 minutes. Specifically, a small skein in which the composite yarn is wound 10 times around the frame of a wrap reel 1 m around the frame is made, and this is hooked, and the skein length is set at the lower end under a load of 1/20 g / d per composite yarn. Measure this and L₁  And Next, the measured small skein is hung in an oven at 180 ° C. with no load, left for 3 minutes, taken out of the oven and allowed to cool, and the length of the small skein is measured in the same manner as described above, and the length is set to L.₀  And the dry yield is calculated by the following equation.
[0051]
Dry yield = [(L₁-L₀) / L₀)] × 100
[0052]
【Example】
(Example 1)
A low-viscosity component composed of 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.475 and a high viscosity component composed of 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.780 were laminated in a parallel type at a weight composite ratio of 50:50. An undrawn conjugated multifilament yarn was spun and then drawn to produce a conjugated multifilament yarn of 75D-18 filaments. The yarn properties were a strength of 3.40 g / d, an elongation of 45.4%, and a boiling point of 10.5%.
[0053]
On the other hand, 100% of polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun at a spinning speed of 2,800 m / min to produce a multifilament semi-drawn yarn of 80D-36 filament having an elongation of 165%. Using the conjugated multifilament yarn and the multifilament semi-drawn yarn, a composite crimped yarn was produced by the elongation difference composite false twisting method shown in FIG. The multi-filament half-drawn yarn and the conjugated multi-filament yarn are aligned, and then a heater temperature of 185 ° C., a false twist feed rate of -5%, a false twist number of 2,230 T / M (false twist coefficient α)₂  = 19,300), and then air pressure of 4.0 kg / cm using a confounding nozzle having a diameter of 0.8 mm × 2 holes.²To perform confounding treatment.
[0054]
The obtained composite crimped yarn had a form in which conjugated multifilament yarns were mainly arranged on the inner layer side, and a part of the outer layer side multifilament yarn was mixed therewith. The composite crimped yarn had a fineness of 155 denier, a strength of 2.01 g / d, and an elasticity in a non-twisted state. The crimp restorability CR was 27.3% and the crimp onset elongation TR was 17. The yield was 6%, the boiling yield was 7.9%, and the dry yield was 13.5%. Furthermore, for the sheath yarn, the boiling point is 2.8%, the elongation is 75%, and the birefringence Δn 81 × 10^-3Met.
[0055]
Subsequently, the composite crimped yarn was subjected to 8,000 r. p. m. In the S direction, a twist of 1,000 twists / m (twist coefficient α = 12,450) was applied to form a twisted yarn having a fineness of 171 denier and a strength of 2.10 g / d. In this twisted yarn, the yarn length difference ΔL between the inner conjugate multifilament yarn and the outer layer multifilament yarn is 18%, the crimp restoring ratio CR is 21.5%, and the crimp expression elongation ratio TR is 11.2. %, And the reduction was extremely small with respect to the crimp restoring rate and crimp expression elongation rate in the non-twisted state, and the article had excellent stretchability.
[0056]
Next, this twisted yarn is used as a warp and a weft to produce a plain woven fabric having a density of 86 yarns / 25.4 mm × 64 yarns / 25.4 mm by a normal weaving process, and then a dyeing process (135 ° C. × 60 minutes). ), A woven fabric having a density of 102 pieces / 25.4 mm × 82 pieces / 25.4 mm was obtained.
[0057]
The obtained woven fabric has excellent drabability with soft swelling and firmness and elasticity, and has excellent stretchability at an elongation of 15% × 13%, and an L value of 9. It was 8. When this was sewn to formal wear, there was no puckering, and it had a high-quality feel and an extremely excellent tailoring.
[0058]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, the composite crimped yarn has a unique entangled structure by combining the multifilaments by combining the sheath yarn having low orientation and high color development and the core yarn having high color development and high resilience, and taking such a unique entangled structure. The knitted woven fabric composed of the composite crimped yarn is intended by the present invention to have a more prominent black high color development, rich swelling and dense and supple touch, high quality tailoring with moderate elasticity, and moderate elasticity And give resilience.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a composite crimped yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a process chart showing another example of the method for producing a composite crimped yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
A: Crimped conjugate multifilament yarn
B: Crimped multifilament yarn
1 ... Package
1 'Package
2 ... Package
3 ・ ・ ・ Roller
3 '... Supply roller
4 ... heater
5 ・ ・ ・ Roller
6 ・ ・ ・ Roller
7 ・ ・ ・ Entangling nozzle
8 Roller
9 ... False twist heater
10. False Spindle
11. Laura
12. Winding device
13. Alignment guide

Claims (8)

A composite crimped yarn composed of at least two types of multifilament yarns, one of which is a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn composed of at least two components of synthetic polymers having different heat shrinkages. Another type is a crimped multifilament yarn which is disposed as a core yarn in the inner layer of the crimped yarn, and which is made of a synthetic polymer and has a yarn length longer than that of the crimped conjugated multifilament yarn. And a part of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn is mixed with the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn. In a composite crimped yarn in which a part of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn is mixed with the crimped multifilament yarn, a crimped multifilament constituting the sheath yarn is used. The ment yarn has 1) a boiling yield of 2 to 5%, 2) an elongation of 60 to 100%, and the composite crimped yarn has a 3) boiling yield of 5 to 10% and 4) a dry yield of 5%. 7-18%, 5) A composite crimped yarn characterized by a crimp restoring ratio CR of 20-40%. The composite crimped yarn is a state in which the twist coefficient alpha ₁ defined by the following formula is 6,700～20,200 twist is given, a crimped rigidity, CR, of 18 to 40%, crimp development The composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the elongation rate TR is 8 to 25%. α ₁ = T ₁ × D ₁ ^1/2 [However, T ₁ : Number of twists (times / m), D ₁ : Total denier] The single-filament fineness of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn is larger than that of the crimped multifilament yarn constituting the sheath yarn, and that of the crimped conjugate multifilament constituting the core yarn. 3. The composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness is 2d or more, and the single yarn fineness of the crimped multifilament constituting the sheath yarn is 3d or less. The birefringence Δn of the crimped multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn is smaller than that of the crimped conjugate multifilament single yarn constituting the core yarn, and the birefringence Δn of the crimped multifilament single yarn constituting the sheath yarn is reduced. 4. The composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the birefringence Δn is 100 × 10 ⁻³ or less. A knitted fabric comprising the composite crimped yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4. The composite crimped yarn is given a twist having a twist coefficient α defined by the following formula in the range of 8,000 to 24,000, and the elongation of at least one of the courses is 3 to 25%. The knitted fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: α ₁ = T ₁ × D ₁ ^1/2 [However, T ₁ : Number of twists (times / m), D ₁ : Total denier] The knitted fabric according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the knitted fabric has an L value of 8.5 to 12. A conjugated multifilament yarn in which at least two polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages are bonded, and a multifilament yarn made of a synthetic polymer having an elongation greater than the elongation of the conjugated multifilament yarn A method for producing a composite crimped yarn comprising a crimped conjugate multifilament yarn and a crimped multifilament yarn by simultaneous simultaneous false twisting, wherein the yarn length of the crimped multifilament yarn is changed to The yarn is fed so as to be 5 to 35% longer than the yarn, and the false twist temperature is 140 to 200 ° C., the number of false twists T ₂ = α ₂ / D ₂ ^1/2 [where α ₂ is a twist coefficient of 13, 500~23,000, D ₂ the claims 1 to 4 or a composite crimped yarn manufacturing method characterized by false twisting under the conditions of the core yarn denier].

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