JP3676026B2 - Elastic brushed knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a stretch raised knitted fabric excellent in pilling resistance suitable for clothing and chair upholstery.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Raised knitted fabrics using thermoplastic synthetic fiber filaments are favorably used for apparel applications such as women's pants, skirts and coats, and materials such as chair upholstery because of their high-class feeling.
Recently, polyurethane elastic fibers have been applied to these knitted fabrics to improve their comfort by imparting stretch, softening the texture, and improving moldability in chair upholstery. It has been broken.
However, brushed knitted fabric imparted with stretchability is generally problematic in that pilling is likely to occur.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Brushed knitted fabric is inherently prone to pilling. It has innumerable fuzz on the surface of the knitted fabric, which is stretched by friction during wearing and curled (coiled) with the other fuzz. This is because it tends to grow and become pilling.
[0004]
On the other hand, when raising a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament to the needle cloth, it is stretched to the limit and then cut raising (raising method that finally cuts the fiber), and further extra long fibers are sheared (sheared: By cutting with a blade, the occurrence of pilling has been suppressed.
[0005]
However, in a knitted fabric to which stretchability is imparted by applying polyurethane elastic fibers, the wales and the wales open at the time of elongation, and the non-raised portions are exposed. In this non-raising portion, there is a problem that there is a thread hung on the raising needle halfway during the raising treatment, and pilling is easily formed.
The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object thereof is to provide a raised knitted fabric with improved stretch resistance and improved pilling resistance.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to prevent pilling of a stretched raised knitted fabric obtained by knitting a coated elastic yarn in which the periphery of an elastic fiber such as polyurethane fiber is covered with a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament (A), the present coated yarn And the synthetic fiber filament (B) used for raising are knitted so that the knots of the knitted fabric are shared, and not only the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B but also the thermoplastic synthetic fiber by raising treatment It has been found that good pilling resistance can be obtained by making the knitted fabric such that the filament A is also substantially raised and making the single fiber fineness of the filaments A and B satisfy a specific relationship. Reached.
[0007]
That is, the present invention is a stretchable material in which a coated elastic yarn in which a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A covers an elastic fiber and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B are knitted by sharing a knot of the knitted fabric. A raised knitted fabric in which both filaments of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A are raised, and the single fiber fineness b (denier) of the filament B and the single fiber fineness of the filament A A stretch brushed knitted fabric excellent in pilling resistance, wherein the ratio (a / b) to a (denier) is 2 or more.
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filaments A and B used in the present invention, filaments made of a thermoplastic polymer such as polyester, polyamide, saponified ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer are preferably used. As the polyester, for example, polyalkylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate is preferably used. Further, it is a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and polybutylene glycol, with the repeating unit of alkylene terephthalate as a main skeleton. May be.
[0009]
Examples of the polyamide include polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, and these may be appropriately modified with the third component.
[0010]
Furthermore, in the present invention, two or more of these polymers are used to form an arbitrary composite form such as a polymer composite (core-sheath type, side-by-side type, multi-layer bonded type, random type composite spinning, mixed spinning, etc.), Spinning composites (spun mixed yarns, etc.) and yarn composites (ordinary mixed yarns, structurally processed yarns) can be used.
[0011]
The polymer material constituting the elastic fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and is an elastic fiber obtained from polyurethane elastomers such as polyether polyurethane and polyester polyurethane, olefin elastomers, silicon elastomers, diene rubbers, and the like. In the present invention, fibers composed of 85% or more of segmented polyurethane are preferably used. In addition, it does not ask | require about the manufacturing method of a polyurethane elastic fiber whether they are dry spinning, melt spinning, and wet spinning.
[0012]
In the present invention, the form in which the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A covers the periphery of the elastic fiber is not particularly limited, and may be a covering method using a hollow spindle, a fluid jetting method (air or water), a false twisting method, a twisting yarn method. Any method may be used for producing the coated elastic yarn.
[0013]
In the present invention, sharing the knot of the knitted fabric means that the coated elastic yarn and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B are fed from the same yarn feeder to form the same stitch. The more shared stitches, the better. However, it is not necessary to share all the stitches on the raised surface. In order for a plurality of yarns to share the stitches, the yarns may be supplied to the knitting needles from the same yarn feeder. However, in the raised knitted fabric as in the present invention, it is preferable that the yarns to be mainly raised are taken out to the outside. Therefore, it is preferable that the tension in the yarn feeding is small in the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B and large in the coated elastic yarn.
[0014]
In the present invention, raising (raising processing) refers to a process of giving a hairy appearance by pulling or cutting a single fiber by a needle-like protrusion or the like. Regardless of methods such as thistle brushing and water brushing.
Moreover, raising is what includes both the state from which the single filament was pulled out by the said processus | protrusion etc., and the state cut.
[0015]
Originally, filaments having a higher single fiber fineness are more likely to be raised, but pilling is more likely to occur. On the other hand, a single fiber having a small fineness is less likely to be raised, but once raised, it is difficult for pilling to occur. The reason for this is presumed to be that, by raising a fiber that is difficult to raise several times, the fiber does not exhibit a behavior of curling and becoming a core of pilling after the fiber is drawn.
[0016]
In the present invention, the coated elastic yarn is knitted so as to be hidden under the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B, so that it is hardly raised in terms of positional relationship. Therefore, in order to raise the coated elastic yarn, it is necessary to provide a difference in fineness as described above. That is, the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A needs to be relatively thick and needs to be about twice or more the fineness of the filament B.
[0017]
In the present invention, pilling means the generation of pills or appearance defects evaluated in the ICI pilling method.
[0018]
【The invention's effect】
Brushed knitted fabric with stretchability has a problem in pilling. The reason is that when the knitted fabric is stretched, single fibers are pulled out from the open portion between the wales and become pilling. The stretched and opened state is extremely small in terms of elongation, and is 10% or less.
[0019]
This can be understood by recalling the ICI pilling measurement method. During the ICI pilling measurement, the stretchable cloth wound around the rubber tube expands and contracts with the deformation of the rubber tube while rotating in the box, but the degree of elongation seems to be slight. Moreover, although ICI pilling measurement and wearing of actual clothes correspond fairly well, it is because it is normal that the elongation of the fabric is about several to 10%.
[0020]
The elongation of the raised knitted fabric using the polyurethane elastic fiber is 30% to 100% in the transverse direction, but according to the present invention, when the elongation of several% to 10% is expressed, The coated filament A of the coated elastic yarn is moderately entangled with the filament B, which is mainly raised, and suppresses movement of the yarn, such as reversal and twisting. The occurrence of pilling is small.
[0021]
【Example】
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention concretely, this invention is not limited to this at all.
[0022]
Example 1
A knitted fabric having the structure of FIG. 1 was knitted using a 28 gauge 30 inch double knitting machine. In the drawing, the knitted fabric is knitted by repeating (1), (2), (3), (4) in this order. K, L, and M indicate yarn types, K is polyester 75 denier 96 filament (raised yarn; filament B), and L is spandex (Kuraray Co., Ltd. “Spantel”: registered trademark) Coated elastic yarn in which 40 denier is drafted 3 times and polyester processed yarn 50 denier 24 filament (filament A) is covered by a hollow spindle method at a rate of 500 times per meter. , M is a polyester processed yarn 50 denier 24 filament. The yarn L is knit on both the dial side and the cylinder side. The yarn K shares a stitch with the yarn L on the dial side. When supplying the yarn K, the yarn supply tension is set lower than the tension of the yarn K, so that the yarn K covers the surface of the fabric.
[0023]
The knitted fabric thus obtained was raised (needle raising) -relaxed (90.degree. C.)-Preset (170.degree. C..times.1 minute) -dyed (130.degree. C..times.30 minutes) -dried-raised (needle raising) ) -Shearing-Through the series of steps of the finishing set, the finished width was 130 cm and the basis weight was 450 g / m ² . The elongation of the fabric was JIS L 1018 (constant load: 750 g, test width: 2.5 cm, distance between marked lines: 10 cm). The elongation in the vertical direction was 55%, and the elongation in the horizontal direction was 40%. Further, pilling was as good as grade 4-5 at ICI 5 hours and grade 4 at 10 hours.
[0024]
In this example, the single yarn fineness (b) of the raised filament B was 0.78 dr, the single yarn fineness (a) of the coated yarn was 2.08 dr, and a / b = 2.66. As a result of unraveling the yarn of the raised knitted fabric, the coated yarn was found to be substantially brushed because elongation and cutting of the filament A were observed.
[0025]
Comparative Example 1
The same knitting machine and structure as in Example 1 are used. Yarn K is the same polyester 75 denier 96 filament (raising yarn: filament B) as in the example, and yarn L is polyester processed yarn 50 denier 24 filament. For the yarn M, a spandex (Kuraray Co., Ltd. “Spantel”: registered trademark) 40 denier was drafted 3 times, and a polyester-processed yarn 50 denier 24 filament (filament A) was surrounded by 1 A knitted fabric was knitted using covered elastic yarns covered by a hollow spindle method at a rate of 500 times per meter. In this knitted fabric, the raised yarn K and the covered elastic yarn M do not share the same stitch. The stretch of the knitted fabric is obtained by the covered elastic yarn M used in (2) and (4). During knitting, the yarn feeding tension of the yarn K is set to be smaller than the yarn feeding tension of the yarn L.
[0026]
This knitted fabric was processed in the same manner as in Example 1, and finished with a finishing width of 130 cm and a basis weight of 430 g / m ² . The elongation of the fabric was JIS L 1018 (constant load 750 g, test width 2.5 cm, distance between marked lines 10 cm), and the elongation in the vertical direction was 51% and the elongation in the horizontal direction was 38%. The pilling was poor at ICI grade 3 for 5 hours and grade 2-3 for 10 hours.
[0027]
Comparative Example 2
A knitted fabric having the structure of FIG. 1 was knitted using a 28 gauge 30 inch double knitting machine. The knitted fabric is knitted by repeating (1), (2), (3), (4) in this order. In the figure, K, L, and M indicate yarn types, K is polyester 75 denier 96 filament (raised yarn: filament B), and L is spandex ("Spantel" manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd .: registered) (Trademark) Draft of 40 denier 3 times, and covering with polyester fiber 50 denier 48 filament (filament A) covered by hollow spindle method at a rate of 500 times per meter The elastic yarn, M, is a polyester processed yarn 50 denier 24 filament. The yarn L is knit on both the dial side and the cylinder side. The yarn K shares a stitch with the yarn L on the dial side. When supplying the yarn K, the yarn supply tension is set lower than the tension of the yarn L, so that the yarn K covers the surface of the fabric.
[0028]
The knitted fabric thus obtained was raised (needled cloth) -relaxed (90 ° C.)-Preset (170 ° C. × 1 minute) -dyed (130 ° C. × 30 minutes) -dried-raised (needle cloth raised) -sha - ring - through a series of steps of finishing sets, finishing width 130 cm, finished with basis weight 450 g / m ^2.
The elongation of this fabric was JIS L 1018 (constant load 750 g, test width 2.5 cm, distance between marked lines 10 cm), the longitudinal elongation was 58%, and the horizontal elongation was 45%. It was. The pilling was poor at ICI grade 3 for 5 hours and grade 2-3 for 10 hours.
[0029]
In this example, the single yarn fineness (b) of the filament B for raising is 0.78 dr, the single yarn fineness (a) of the filament A for coated yarn is 1.04 dr, and a / b = 1.33. Met.
Further, when the yarn of the raised knitted fabric was unraveled, the coated yarn was not affected by the raising because no fiber elongation or cutting was observed.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is an example of a knitting diagram of a knitted fabric of the present invention.

Claims (2)

An elastic brushed knitted fabric in which a coated elastic yarn in which a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A is coated around an elastic fiber and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B are knitted by sharing a knot of the knitted fabric. The filaments of both the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament B and the thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament A are raised, and the single fiber fineness b (denier) of the filament B and the single fiber fineness a (denier) of the filament A A stretch brushed knitted fabric excellent in pilling resistance, wherein the ratio (a / b) is 2 or more. 2. The stretchable knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic fiber is a polyurethane elastic fiber.

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