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JP3701601B2 - Dyeing method for binding yarn and textile yarn - Google Patents
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JP3701601B2 - Dyeing method for binding yarn and textile yarn - Google Patents

Dyeing method for binding yarn and textile yarn Download PDF

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JP3701601B2
JP3701601B2 JP2001360740A JP2001360740A JP3701601B2 JP 3701601 B2 JP3701601 B2 JP 3701601B2 JP 2001360740 A JP2001360740 A JP 2001360740A JP 2001360740 A JP2001360740 A JP 2001360740A JP 3701601 B2 JP3701601 B2 JP 3701601B2
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Prior art keywords
yarn
dyeing
dye
dyed
temperature
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JP2003166176A (en
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敏弘 小林
睦子 中野
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Ibaraki Prefectural Government
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Ibaraki Prefectural Government
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、水と共存する状態で、温度によって可逆的に親水性(低温)と 疎水性(高温)とに相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液を含浸した括り糸を用い、その防染性を高めることにより、絹からなる絹糸、手紡糸、手紬糸などの織物用糸を染色する方法に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
糸及び糸束状の染色方法には浸染、捺染などがあり、無地染めと対比されるたたき染めやすり込み捺染、両者を併用した方法、あるいは型紙捺染といういわゆる着尺産地で絣染色と称される染色方法がある。
無地染めが単色であるのに対し、絣染めは多色に染め分ける方法として着尺の産地では最も実用に供されている。
【0003】
たたき染めは、綿糸やゴムで糸束の図柄の模様となる部分を硬く括り付け、それ以外の地と称される部分を染めるのに、棒の先に糸束を結びつけ、染料を含ませて板の上にたたき付けて染色する。
当然のことながら、地の部分は同一の色相となり、4反分の糸を一括して染色すれば4反とも同一の色相に染色される。
【0004】
図柄模様となる絣の色も同様に、同じ染料で同時に染色すれば同一の色相に染色され、模様となる部分は同一の色相で変化に乏しい。
図案の模様となる絣の色が多くなれば、その色数だけ、染色−括り−脱色という作業を繰り返し、最後にたたき染めにより、括った部分以外のところを染色する。これは染色−括り−脱色を繰り返すため、細心の注意を払って丁寧に作業を進めても、絣糸はケバ立ちや分繊などの損傷を受けやすい。
【0005】
また、糸束を括る強度は個人差があり、同一人物であっても作業時の温度、湿度による糸の伸び縮等により括り強度が違う。括り強度が違うと、一様に染色ができないため、個々の括り具合によって、糸束をたたく回数を加減しながら染色を行う必要がある。そのため、絣の染色はきわめて困難である。
【0006】
型紙捺染は、予め糸に糊付けをしておき、捺染台上に所定の長さ、幅に糸を広げておき、図柄模様を切り抜いた型紙の上から捺染糊をスキージにより、各色相ごとに型紙を変えて捺染し、乾燥し、蒸熱し、ソーピングし、水洗し、乾燥する。型紙は前述のように、各色相にごとに作製し、それぞれの型紙は寸分の狂いも許されないため、専門的な技術が必要であり、作製に要するコスト、労力も大きい。
【0007】
また、型紙作製は相応の設備とコストがかかるため、一つの柄で多量のロットを加工しないと型紙作製の費用がペイしないため、現在の少量多品種生産が主流である今日、逆行していく傾向となっている。
もちろん、捺染加工にあたっては適用する染料、助剤の選定も重要な因子であるとともに、熟練した技能、技術が求められ、広い作業場が当然必要となる。
【0008】
【発明が解決しようとしている課題】
既に述べたとおり、絹糸、手紡糸、手紬糸に絣となる多色の図柄模様を染色する場合、染色−括り−脱色を繰り返し、地となる部分を最後に染色するのであるが、この場合でも、地の部分は一括して染色するため同一の色相に染色される。
加えて、絣の目色の一括染色では当然同一の色相に染色され、同じ色相の絣と地色の結城紬が数反出来てしまい、高級品である結城紬の販売に支障をきたしたり、イメージも損なう恐れがある。
【0009】
一方、生産者においても、ごく少量の生産反数を強いられている現在、仮に2反括るのも、6反括るのも作業時間はあまり変わらない。
しかし、最低限の加工料金を確保できなければ生活は成り立たない。さりとて、流通関係者や着物愛好家にとっては1反1反が違う結城紬を所望するのは当然のことであり、生産者と愛好家の両者にとって1ロットの生産数量は、相反するものである。
少量多品種は結城紬業界に限ったことではないが、従来の生産方法や生産者の立場を聞き入れると、一反一反が違う結城紬を生産することは不可能であった。
【0010】
絣を括る者、染色する者は経験やコツが要され、括りの作業に長い期間を要し、染色の際には括られた内部が汚染されたり、使用染料が限定されたりと問題がある。特に天然染料での絣染色は、染料の浸透性や移染性が強く、防染部分を汚染するため、緻密な絣ができない。また、染色、脱色の繰り返しから糸へ与えるダメージの大きさ、各工程間に要する労力と時間、変化の乏しさなど、あまりにも課題や問題点が多い。
このような理由から、従来の方法では絣染色が徒労に終わることもあり、産地での課題解決が急がれている。
【0011】
本発明では、前記従来の織物用糸の染色方法の課題に鑑み、従来から行われてきた浸染染色方法やたたき染め法に適用し、いずれも無地染めや縞の染色、絣作製工程における防染を確実に行い、精緻な模様を織り上げることができる織物用糸の染色方法を提供することを目的とする。さらに、一浴で多色に染め分けることを可能とし、作業労力を軽減しながら、多彩な染色を可能とすることを目的とする。
【0012】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者らは、括り糸の防染性を向上させ、絹からなる形状の異なる各種の糸や糸束に図柄模様となる染色を施し、同時に他から汚染しないように防染する手段について検討を行った。この検討の結果、本発明では、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の水溶液を糸に含浸し、乾燥することにより、防染性を向上させた括り糸を開発した。そしてこの括り糸を使用し、絹からなる各種形状の糸を防染し、同時に一浴で多色の染色を可能とするものである。
【0013】
本発明による括り糸は、水と共存する状態で転移温度以上の高温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温で親水性に相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体を主成分とする溶液を含浸したものである。
また、本発明による織物用糸の染色方法は、前記のような括り糸で染色しようとする糸や糸束を括り、前記感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が親水性を示すその転移温度以下の温度の染色液に浸漬し、その後染色液を加熱し、染色液を前記感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が疎水性を示すその転移温度以上の温度まで昇温することにより、括った糸や糸束を染色するものである。
【0014】
染色時に、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の水溶液を含浸した括り糸で括った糸や糸束を低温の染色液に浸漬した状態で、その染色液を加熱していく過程で、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が親水性から疎水性へと変わる。このとき、括り糸への浸透と防水性の向上が順次起こり、防染性に優れた括り糸となる。このため、前記の括り糸で糸や糸束を括った部分には、染色時の色の浸み込みが無くなり、精緻な染色が可能となる。そして最後に常温で水洗いすることにより、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は親水性を示し、容易に洗い落とすことができる。
【0015】
さらに本発明による染色方法では、予め染色する複数本の織物糸の一部または全部を異なる媒染剤に浸漬して処理した後、前記括り糸で一括りとした糸束あるいはカセ状にして前記染色を行うこともできる。異なる媒染剤に浸漬して処理した糸や糸束は、同じ染料を使用して同時に染色したものでも、異なる色や色調が得られるため、1回の染色で多色染色が可能となる。
【0016】
さらに、織物用糸を染色する染料が天然染料の場合、染料の拡散、浸透性が大きいため、どうしても括り部分への色の浸み込みが起こりやすい。そこで、染色液に、硫酸ナトリウムと酢酸の少なくとも何れかを添加することにより、染料の拡散性、浸透性が減じられ、親和性が増大するため、括り部分への染料の浸み込みが無く、括っていない部分への確実な染色が可能となる。
【0017】
【発明の実施の形態】
次に、本発明の実施の形態について、具体的且つ詳細に説明する。
本発明では、括り糸に水と共存する状態で高温にして疎水性、低温にして親水性に可逆的に転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液を含浸する。括り糸には、通常綿糸が使用される。
【0018】
前記の感熱性ポリアクルアミド系誘導体としては、温度変化に敏感に応答して転移し、かつ高温での転移後に非粘着性を示すものが好ましい。しかし、前記感熱性ポリアクルアミド系誘導体のうち、PVA部分ケン化物やポリエチレンオキシド、ポリビニルメチルエーテルあるいは、高分子反応によって形成されたポリアクリルアミド誘導体などは好ましくない。
【0019】
前記感熱性ポリアクルアミド系誘導体は以下のアクリルアミド系ビニル化合物の高分子の単独重合体もしくは共重合体である。これらは、具体的には、N−エチルアクリルアミド、N−イソプロピルアクリルアミド、N−n−プロピルアクリルアミド、N−n−プロピルメタクリルアミド、N−シクロプロピルアクリルアミド、N、N−ジエチルアクリルアミド、N−メチル−N−エチルアクリルアミド、N−メチル−N−n−プロピルアクリルアミド、N−メチル−N−イソプロピルアクリルアミド、N−アクリロイルピロリジン、N−アクリロイルピペリジン、N−テトラヒドロフルフリルアクリルアミド、N−メトキシプロピルアクリルアミド、N−メトキシプロピルメタクリルアミド、N−エトキシプロピルアクリアミド、N−エトキシロピルメタクリルアミド、N−イソプロポキシプロピルアクリルアミド、N−イソプロポキシプロピルメタクリアミド、N−エトキシエチルアクリルアミド、N−エトキシエチルメタクリルアミド、N−1−メチル−2−メトキシエチルアクリルアミド、N−1−メチル−2−メトキシエチルメタクリルアミド、N−1−メトキシメチルプロピルアクリルアミド、N−1−メトキシメチルプロピルメタクリルアミド、N−(2、2−ジメトキシエチル)−N−メチルアクリルアミド、N−(1、3−ジオキソラン−2−イル)アクリルアミド、N−8−アクロイル−1、4−ジオキサ−8−アザースピロ[4・5]デカン等をあげることができる。これらのビニル化合物の単独重合体はそれぞれ固有の転移温度を有している。
【0020】
さらに、この感熱性ポリアクルアミド系誘導体は、前記のアクリルアミド系ビニル化合物と第二成分として用いる他の共重合し得るビニル化合物との共重体であってもよい。これらのビニル化合物としては、親水性ビニル化合物(前記のアクリルアミド系ビニル化合物を除く)、イオン性ビニル化合物、親油性ビニル化合物等をあげることができ、これら1種類以上を用いることができる。
【0021】
親水性ビニル化合物としては、例えば、N−メチロールアクリルアミド、N−メチロールメタクリルアミド、アクリルアミド、メタクリルアミド、N−メチルアクリルアミド、N,N−ジメチルアクリルアミド、アクリロイルモルホリン、ジアセトンアクリルアミド、ヒドロキシエチルアクリレート、ヒドロキシプロピルアクリレート、ヒドロキシプロピルメタクリレート、N−メトキシエチルアクリルアミド、N−メトキシエチルメタクリルアミド、N−メトキシプロピルメタクリルアミド、2−メチル−5ビニルピリジン、N−ビニル−2−ピロリドン等をあげることができる。
【0022】
イオン性ビニル化合物としては、例えばアクリル酸、メタクリル酸、2−アクリルアミド−2−メチル−1−プロパンスルホン酸、スチレンスルホン酸等 及びそれらの塩、N,N−ジメチルアミノエチルアクリレート、N,N−ジメチルアミノエチルメタクリレート、N,N−ジエチルアミノエチルアクリレート、N,N−ジエチルアミノエチルメタクリレート、N,N−ジエチルアミノプロピルアクリルアミド、N,N−ジエチルアミノプロピルメタクリアミド等のアミン及びそれらの塩をあげることができる。
【0023】
親油性ビニル化合物としては、例えば、N−n−ブチルアクリルアミド、N−n−ブチルメタクリルアミド、N−sec−ブチルアクリルアミド、N−sec−ブチルメタクリルアミド、N−tert−ブチルアクリルアミド、N−tert−ブチルメタクリルアミド、N−n−ヘキシルアクリルアミド、N−n−ヘキシルメタクリルアミド等のN−アルキルアクリルアミド誘導体、エチルアクリレート、エチルメタクリレート、ブチルアクリレート、ブチルメタクリレート、グリシジルメタクリレート等のアクリレート誘導体、アクリロニトリル、塩化ビニル、スチレン、α−メチルスチレン等をあげることができる。
これら第二成分として用いるビニル化合物の共重合割合は、これらビニル化合物の組み合わせにもよるが、通常全ビニル化合物90モル%以下、好ましくは60%以下である。
【0024】
一般に感熱性を有する共重体水溶液の転移温度は、構成単位となるビニル化合物の種類、組み合せ及びその組成比によって制御することができる。その場合、単独重合体が感熱性であるビニル化合物2種類以上で形成された共重合体では、各単独重合体の転移温度とその組成比との間に加成性が成り立つことが多い。
【0025】
また、単独重合体が感熱性であるビニル化合物1種類以上と、他の共重合しうる感熱性でないビニル化合物1種類以上とを共重合する場合、それらビニル化合物の導入により、共重合体水溶性の転移温度は変化するが、一般には親水性ビニル化合物の導入は転移温度を下降させる傾向にある。多量の親油性ビニル化合物の導入は、共重合体を水不溶性にする。
【0026】
感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の水溶液を調整するにあたって、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の濃度は、用いる当該高分子の種類と分子量によって異なる。たとえば分子量約300,000のポリ−N−イソプロピルアクリルアミド(以下「ポリNIPAM」と書く。)水溶液で10〜30%、好ましくは約25%であり、分子量約1,000,000のポリNIPAMで3〜10%、好ましくは約5%である。
【0027】
このような水溶液を調製するにあたり、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体を単独で用いてもよいが、二種類以上の異なる感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体を混合して用いてもよい。さらに必要に応じて各種の塩や界面活性剤等の第三成分を配合してもよい。この場合一般にこれら第三成分の配合により、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の単独水溶液に比し、第三成分の種類と量に応じその転移温度が低下ないし上昇することに留意する必要がある。すなわち、このような感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の粘稠水溶液は、調製条件で決まる固有の転移温度を有する。
【0028】
綿糸等の括り糸を、このような感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の転移温度以下の親水性を示す温度条件下、具体的には常温でその水溶液に浸漬し、含浸させる。感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が親水性を示す温度条件下では、括り糸の繊維の奥にまで感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の水溶液が浸み込み、含浸する。こうして括り糸に感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の水溶液を十分含浸した後、乾燥する。
【0029】
そして、この乾燥した括り糸を使用し、部分染色しようとする糸や糸束の防染しようとする部分に括り付ける。この状態で、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体がその転移温度以下の親水性を示す温度の染色液に浸漬し、その後染色液を加熱し、染色液を前記感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の転移温度以上の疎水性を示す温度まで昇温することにより、括った糸や糸束を染色する。
【0030】
高温で疎水性を示す前記、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体と熱湯で収縮する綿糸の特徴を組み合わせた括り糸は、防染する部分を強く括ることにより、外部からの染料の侵入を防ぐことになる。括り糸に付着している感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体は、転移温度以下の親水性を示す染色液中では、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶解が始まり、これが連続した括り糸と括り糸の間に溶出し、わずかな隙間を埋める。糸束の平行方向にも同様に溶出するので、括り糸の始めと終わりの部分でも括り糸と糸束が密着する。次いで、染色液を加熱、昇温し、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が転移温度以上になると、ゴム状の粘着性の強い表面形態となり、疎水性を示す。この状態では感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が括り糸の表面をカバーし、強い防染性能を発揮する。
【0031】
また、予め絹からなる各種形状や製糸方法の異なる糸に、媒染剤なる酢酸クロム、酢酸アルミニューム、木酢酸鉄、チタン、スズ酸ナトリウム、酢酸銅で前処理をした後、それぞれ処理した糸をカセ状あるいは糸束状に一括にし、染料が1種類、1色の天然染料液中で、同時に同浴中にて染色する。こうすることにより、異なる媒染剤に浸漬して処理した糸や糸束は、同じ染料を使用して同時に染色したものでも、異なる色や色調が得られるため、多色に染め分けることができる。
【0032】
さらに、天然染料の染色では、染浴中に酢酸、硫酸ナトリウムを助剤として添加することにより、染料の拡散性、浸透性、移染性が抑制され、細かく精緻な結城紬特有の絣を染色することができる。
助剤として添加する酢酸は、糸へ染料が着色及び固着するのを促進するとともに、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体のうち、ポリNIPAMの転移温度を31℃から26.5℃に低下させるので、低い温度から染色でき、徐々に染色温度を上げて染色する際、斑染めの防止策としても有効に作用する。
また、助剤として添加する硫酸ナトリウムは、染料粒子と結合し、染料粒子が大きくなるため、糸束内部に浸透、拡散するのを減じるとともに、染料の移染性も抑制される。
【0033】
単に感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の水溶液を含浸した括り糸のみで防染しようとすれば、強く、激しいたたき染めの作業中に、拡散、浸透性の良い天然染料は浸透して、絣の部分まで汚染するため精緻な絣染色はできない。わずかに、括り幅が広く、たたきや揉み込む作業の少ない簡単な絣、産地では荒い絣と称する類の染色は可能である。
【0034】
また、括り糸は現在使用されている綿糸をそのままで、酢酸と硫酸ナトリウムの染色助剤のみで、絣染色を行うと拡散、浸透性の良い天然染料はそれらが抑制されても防染性まではカバー出来ず、幅が広い染色さえも不可能である。括り糸を感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液で処理し、染浴に酢酸と硫酸ナトリウムの染色助剤を添加し、低温から徐々に昇温させる絣染色方法のみ可能な染色方法である。
【0035】
感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液を含浸した綿糸からなる括り糸を使用することにより、熱的刺激や物理的刺激には疎水性や防染性を示す一方で、低温浴では疎水性、防染性をあまり示さない。すなわち、絣たたきや地色染色などの諸工程を終了した時点で水洗することにより、物理的に防染していた感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の表面皮膜を除去することができるのである。このことから、染色後の絣解きや後に続く工程に何ら支障をきたさないものとなる。
【0036】
【実施例】
次に本発明の実施例について、具体的に且つ詳細に説明する。
(実施例1)
感熱性高分子ポリビニルメチルエーテル30%水溶液(東京化成工業、試薬)とポリNIPAMを7:3で混合したもの30部に、水100部を加え、充分に攪拌して、括り糸の処理液とした。この処理液を未晒し木綿糸(6番手)の重量に対して10倍量だけステンレスボールに入れ、これに室温において未晒し木綿糸を浸漬し、平均に絞った後、実験室内で自然乾燥し、これを括り糸として準備した。
【0037】
次に、手紡糸(絹、160デニール)約2.5g/1カセを6カセ用意した。媒染剤、酢酸第2クロム(和光純薬工業、試薬)を糸重量に対し10%、0.25gを水50mlで溶解し、これに前記6カセの手紡絹糸のうちの1カセを90℃で30分間浸漬し、平均に絞り、水洗した後、実験室内で自然乾燥した。
【0038】
同様に、酢酸アルミ(関東化学、試薬)10%、0.25g、酢酸銅(関東化学、試薬)20%、0.5g、木酢酸鉄(田中直染料店、工業薬品)40%、1ml、チタン原液(田中直染料店、工業薬品)40%、1mlをそれぞれ個別の水50mlで溶解し、それぞれ前記手紡絹糸1カセずつを媒染剤毎に別々に室温で30分間浸漬し、平均に絞って水洗後、実験室内で自然乾燥した。
【0039】
次に、各媒染剤で別個に媒染した6カセの糸を前記括り糸で一括りにした。糸重量に対して40%のシブキB液(田中直染料店、液体植物染料)6mlを水450mlに溶解し、染色液とし、前記括った糸束をこの染色液中に浸漬し、30℃から染色を開始して、徐々に昇温させ90℃の温度で30分間浸染した後、脱水、水洗、自然乾燥させた。
【0040】
この時、各媒染剤液でそれぞれ媒染した6カセの糸の色相は、異なった6色に染色されているのが観測された。酢酸クロムの媒染では茶味を帯びた黄色に、酢酸アルミの媒染ではやや茶味を帯びた黄色に、酢酸銅の媒染では茶色に、木酢酸鉄の媒染では緑味を帯びた鼠色に、チタン原液の媒染では赤味の強い茶色に、クエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムの媒染では鮮明な黄色にそれぞれ染色しているのが観測された。
【0041】
次に各媒染剤で茶味を帯びた黄色のカセは酢酸クロムで、やや茶味を帯びた黄色のカセは酢酸アルミで、茶色のカセは酢酸銅で、緑味を帯びた鼠色のカセは木酢酸鉄で、赤味の強い茶色のカセはチタン原液で、鮮明な黄色のカセはクエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムで個別に媒染し、それら6カセを1つの糸束状にし、前記感熱性高分子で処理した括り糸でそれぞれ1、2、5、10mmの幅に10カ所ずつ括り、カテキュー(田中直染料店、液体植物染料)12mlと酢酸(関東化学、試薬)1ml、硫酸ナトリウム(関東化学、試薬)7.5gを水450mlに溶解し、染色液とした中で、20℃から染色を開始して、徐々に昇温させ90℃の温度で30分間浸染した。
【0042】
染色の途中、30、50、70、90℃の温度の時、括られた間に染料液が浸透するよう、細かい部分は各温度毎に60回、やや細かい部分は50回、広い部分は30回、ゴム手袋をつけて手で揉み込んだ。その後、脱水、水洗、脱水し、自然乾燥した。その後括り糸を解きほぐした。
この時、括り糸の解きほぐしは簡単にでき、絣となる部分はシブキB液で染色された色相がそのまま鮮明に、かつ各媒染液でそれぞれ媒染した6色に異なって染色されているのが観測された。
【0043】
一方、カテキュー液で地となる部分を染色した酢酸クロムの媒染部分では茶色に、酢酸アルミの媒染部分ではやや赤味を帯びた茶色に、酢酸銅の媒染部分では赤味の強い茶色に、木酢酸鉄の媒染部分では茶味を帯びた鼠色に、チタン原液の媒染部分では黄色味を帯びた茶色に、クエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムの媒染部分ではやや黄味を帯びた茶色にそれぞれ染色されているのが観測された。
【0044】
(比較例1)
前記実施例1において、感熱性高分子、2種類の水溶液で処理した括り糸を未処理の未晒し木綿糸に、地となる部分のカテキューによる染色時に添加した酢酸と硫酸ナトリウムを未添加にし、他は実施例と同様にして、媒染、水洗、染色、媒染、括り、染色、水洗、脱水、乾燥し、括り糸の解きも同様に行った。
【0045】
この時、括られた糸の上からと、糸束の水平方向からカテキューの染料が浸透して、絣となる部分が汚染され、1mm及び2mm幅に括った表面はほとんど絣として残らずに、糸束内部はごくわずかに絣として感じられるように観測された。
すなわち、絣となる染色部分はほとんど汚染され、絣模様とはならずに、使用できないことを示した。
【0046】
(実施例2)
前記実施例1において、染料、シブキB液をエンジュ(田中直染料店、液体植物染料)に、カテキューをラックダイ(田中直染料店、液体植物染料)にそれぞれ代えて実施例1と同様にして、媒染、水洗、染色、媒染、括り、染色、水洗、乾燥、括り糸解きも同様に行った。
【0047】
この時、括り糸の解きほぐしは簡単にでき、絣となる部分はエンジュ液で染色された色相がそのまま鮮明に、かつ、各媒染液でそれぞれ媒染した6色に異なって染色されているのが観測された。
酢酸クロムの媒染では緑味を帯びた黄色に、酢酸アルミの媒染では鮮明な黄色に、酢酸銅の媒染では黄緑色に、木酢酸鉄の媒染ではカーキ色に、チタン原液の媒染ではトキ色に、クエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムの媒染ではクリーム色にそれぞれ染色しているのが観測された。
【0048】
一方、ラックダイで地となる部分を染色した酢酸クロムの媒染部分ではやや青味を帯びた紫色に、酢酸アルミの媒染部分ではやや赤味を帯びた紫色に、酢酸銅の媒染部分では茶味の強い紫色に、木酢酸鉄の媒染部分では赤味を帯びた鼠色に、チタン原液の媒染部分では鮮明な紫色に、クエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムの媒染部分ではやや黄色味を帯びた赤色にそれぞれ染色しているのが観測された。
【0049】
(比較例2)
前記実施例2において、感熱性高分子、2種類の水溶液で処理した括り糸を未晒し木綿糸に代えた他は、実施例と同様にして、媒染、水洗、染色、媒染、括り、染色、水洗、乾燥し、括り糸解きも同様に行った。
【0050】
この時、括られた糸の上からと、糸束の水平方向からラックダイの染料が浸透して、絣となる部分が汚染され、1mm、及び2mm幅に括った表面はほとんど絣として残らずに、わずかに糸束内部は括り幅の半分くらいの絣として観測された。
5mm、10mm幅に括った表面はほとんど絣として残らずに、わずかに糸束内部は括り幅の3分の2くらいの絣として観測された。すなわち、絣となる染色部分はほとんど汚染され、絣模様とならず、使用できないことを示した。
【0051】
(実施例3)
前記実施例1において、染料、シブキB液をタンガラ(田中直染料店、液体植物染料)に、カテキューをコガネバナ(田中直染料店、液体植物染料)に代えて実施例1と同様にして、媒染、水洗、染色、媒染、括り、染色、水洗、乾燥し、括り糸解きも同様に行った。
【0052】
この時、括り糸の解きほぐしは簡単にでき、絣となる部分はタンガラで染色された色相がそのまま鮮明に、かつ、各媒染液でそれぞれ媒染した6色に異なって染色されているのが観測された。
酢酸クロムの媒染ではやや赤味を帯びた茶色に、酢酸アルミの媒染ではベージュ色に、酢酸銅の媒染では茶色に、木酢酸鉄の媒染では赤味の鼠色に、チタン原液の媒染では黄味を帯びた茶色に、クエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムの媒染では淡色の茶色にそれぞれ染色しているのが観測された。
【0053】
一方、コガネバナで地となる部分を染色した、酢酸クロムの媒染部分ではやや茶味を帯びた黄色に、酢酸アルミの媒染部分ではやや赤味を帯びた黄色に、酢酸銅の媒染部分では茶味の強い黄色に、木酢酸鉄の媒染部分では緑味を帯びた鼠色に、チタン原液の媒染部分では赤味の黄色に、クエン酸と錫酸ナトリウムの媒染部分ではクリーム色にそれぞれ染色しているのが観測された。
【0054】
(比較例3)
前記実施例3において、地となる部分のコガネバナによる染色時に添加した酢酸と硫酸ナトリウムを未添加の他は、実施例と同様にして、媒染、水洗、染色、媒染、括り、染色、水洗、乾燥し、括り糸解きも同様に行った。
【0055】
この時、括られた糸の上からは、コガネバナの染料がわずかに浸透し、糸束の水平方向からは、染料がかなり浸透して、絣となる部分が汚染され、1mm、及び2mm幅に括った表面は糸束の垂直方向に線を引いたように(産地では俗に、鉢巻きと称している)糸束の水平方向にかなり浸透しているため、括り幅の半分くらいの絣として観測された。
5mm、10mm幅に括った表面は鉢巻き状に汚染し、糸束内部は括り幅の4分の3くらいの絣として観測された。すなわち、絣となる染色部分はかなり汚染され、絣模様とならず、使用できないことを示した。
【0056】
【発明の効果】
以上説明した通り、本発明による括り糸とそれを使用した織物用糸の染色方法では、無地染めや縞の染色、絣作製工程における防染を確実に行い、精緻な模様を織り上げることができる織物用糸の染色方法を提供することができる。さらに、一浴で多色に染め分けることを可能とし、作業労力を軽減しながら、多彩な染色を可能とすることが出来る。
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention uses a binding yarn impregnated with a solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative that reversibly changes phase depending on temperature into hydrophilicity (low temperature) and hydrophobicity (high temperature) in the presence of water. The present invention relates to a method of dyeing textile yarn such as silk yarn, hand spun yarn, hand warp yarn and the like by increasing dyeability.
[0002]
[Prior art]
There are dyeing methods such as dyeing and printing, which are dyed in thread and bundle form. There is a way.
Solid-colored dyeing is a single color, whereas koji dyeing is most practically used as a method of dyeing in multiple colors.
[0003]
In the tapping dyeing process, the part of the pattern of the yarn bundle is tightly bound with cotton thread or rubber, and the other part called the ground is dyed. Tap on the plate and dye.
As a matter of course, the background portion has the same hue, and if four yarns are dyed together, the four hues are dyed in the same hue.
[0004]
Similarly, the color of the wrinkles that become the design pattern is dyed in the same hue if dyed simultaneously with the same dye, and the portion that becomes the pattern has the same hue and hardly changes.
If the color of the cocoon that becomes the pattern of the design increases, the process of dyeing-bundling-decoloring is repeated for the number of colors, and finally the portion other than the bundling portion is dyed by tapping. Since this process repeats dyeing-bundling-decoloring, even if the work is carried out carefully with great care, the kite string is susceptible to damage such as flaking and splitting.
[0005]
Further, the strength of binding the yarn bundle varies from person to person, and even for the same person, the binding strength differs depending on the expansion and contraction of the yarn due to temperature and humidity during operation. If the binding strength is different, uniform dyeing cannot be performed. Therefore, it is necessary to perform dyeing while adjusting the number of times the yarn bundle is struck depending on the individual binding conditions. For this reason, it is very difficult to stain wrinkles.
[0006]
For pattern printing, the yarn is glued in advance, the yarn is spread to a predetermined length and width on the printing stand, and the printing paste is squeezed from the pattern paper cut out of the design pattern for each hue. Printing, drying, steaming, soaping, washing with water and drying. As described above, the paper pattern is produced for each hue, and each paper pattern is not allowed to be slightly out of order. Therefore, specialized techniques are required, and the cost and labor required for production are large.
[0007]
In addition, since the production of pattern paper requires appropriate equipment and cost, if you do not process a lot of lots with one pattern, you will not pay for the pattern production. It has become a trend.
Of course, selection of dyes and auxiliaries to be applied in textile printing is also an important factor, and skilled skills and techniques are required, and a large work space is naturally required.
[0008]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
As already mentioned, when dyeing multi-colored patterns that become wrinkles on silk, hand-spun and hand-drawn yarns, the dyeing-bundling-decoloring process is repeated, and the ground part is dyed last. The ground part is dyed in the same hue because it is dyed all at once.
In addition, the batch dyeing of eyelids is naturally dyed in the same hue, and the same hue and the background color Yuki are made several times, hindering the sale of luxury products Yuki, and the image There is a risk of damage.
[0009]
On the other hand, even in the case of producers, who are forced to produce a very small number of production reciprocals, the work time does not change much between two and six.
However, life cannot be realized if the minimum processing fee cannot be secured. As a matter of course, it is natural for distributors and kimono enthusiasts to desire a different Yuki tsumugi, and for both producers and enthusiasts, the production quantity of one lot is contradictory.
Although small quantities and many varieties are not limited to the Yuki candy industry, it was impossible to produce Yuki potatoes that differed from each other according to the conventional production method and the position of the producer.
[0010]
Persons who tie or dye the cocoons need experience and tips, and it takes a long time for the tying work, and there is a problem that the inside of the tying is polluted and the dye used is limited . In particular, when dyed with natural dyes, the dyes have high penetrability and dye transfer properties and contaminate the stain-resistant part. In addition, there are too many problems and problems such as the magnitude of damage to the yarn from repeated dyeing and decoloring, labor and time required for each process, and poor change.
For these reasons, with conventional methods, wrinkle dyeing sometimes ends up being labored, and there is an urgent need to solve problems in the production area.
[0011]
In the present invention, in view of the problems of the conventional dyeing method for textile yarn, it is applied to the conventional dyeing dyeing method and the knocking dyeing method, both of which are plain dyeing, stripe dyeing, and anti-dyeing in the wrinkle preparation process. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for dyeing a yarn for textiles, which can reliably carry out a fine pattern and weave a fine pattern. Furthermore, it is possible to dye various colors in one bath, and it is intended to enable various dyeing while reducing work labor.
[0012]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have studied a means for improving the dye-resisting property of the binding yarn, dyeing various yarns and yarn bundles having different shapes made of silk, and simultaneously preventing them from being contaminated by others. Went. As a result of this examination, the present invention has developed a binding yarn having improved dye resistance by impregnating the yarn with an aqueous solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative and drying it. Using this tie yarn, yarns of various shapes made of silk are dyed, and at the same time, multicolor dyeing is possible in one bath.
[0013]
The binding yarn according to the present invention is impregnated with a solution containing as a main component a thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative that undergoes a phase transition to a hydrophobic state at a high temperature above the transition temperature in a coexistence with water, and a hydrophilic phase at a low temperature below the transition temperature. Is.
Further, the dyeing method for textile yarn according to the present invention binds the yarn or yarn bundle to be dyed with the above-described binding yarn, and the temperature-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative exhibits a hydrophilicity or lower than its transition temperature. Immerse them in the dyeing solution, then heat the dyeing solution, and dye the bundled yarn or yarn bundle by heating the dyeing solution to a temperature above its transition temperature at which the thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative exhibits hydrophobicity. Is.
[0014]
In the process of heating the dyeing solution in a state where the yarn or yarn bundle wrapped with the binding yarn impregnated with an aqueous solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is immersed in a low-temperature dyeing solution during dyeing, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide type is heated. Derivatives change from hydrophilic to hydrophobic. At this time, penetration into the binding yarn and improvement in waterproofness occur sequentially, and the binding yarn has excellent dyeing resistance. For this reason, there is no color permeation at the time of dyeing in the portion where the yarn or yarn bundle is tied up with the above-mentioned tied yarn, and precise dyeing becomes possible. Finally, by washing with water at room temperature, the thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative exhibits hydrophilicity and can be easily washed off.
[0015]
Furthermore, in the dyeing method according to the present invention, after a part or all of a plurality of fabric yarns to be dyed in advance are treated by immersing them in different mordants, the dyeing is carried out by forming a bundle of yarns or casks with the binding yarns. It can also be done. Yarns and yarn bundles treated by immersing in different mordants can be dyed at the same time using the same dye, so that different colors and tones can be obtained.
[0016]
Further, when the dye for dyeing the fabric yarn is a natural dye, the dye is diffusing and penetrating so that the color is apt to infiltrate into the constricted part. Therefore, by adding at least one of sodium sulfate and acetic acid to the dyeing solution, the diffusibility and penetrability of the dye are reduced and the affinity is increased, so there is no penetration of the dye into the binding part, Reliable dyeing of unbundled parts is possible.
[0017]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described specifically and in detail.
In the present invention, the binding yarn is impregnated with a solution of a thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative that reversibly transfers to hydrophobicity at high temperature and hydrophilicity at low temperature in the state of coexisting with water. Cotton yarn is usually used as the binding yarn.
[0018]
As the above-mentioned heat-sensitive polyacramide-based derivative, those which transfer in response to a change in temperature sensitively and exhibit non-stickiness after transfer at a high temperature are preferable. However, among the heat-sensitive polyacramide derivatives, PVA partially saponified products, polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl methyl ether, or polyacrylamide derivatives formed by polymer reaction are not preferable.
[0019]
The heat-sensitive polyacramide derivative is a polymer homopolymer or copolymer of the following acrylamide vinyl compound. Specifically, N-ethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, Nn-propylacrylamide, Nn-propylmethacrylamide, N-cyclopropylacrylamide, N, N-diethylacrylamide, N-methyl- N-ethylacrylamide, N-methyl-Nn-propylacrylamide, N-methyl-N-isopropylacrylamide, N-acryloylpyrrolidine, N-acryloylpiperidine, N-tetrahydrofurfurylacrylamide, N-methoxypropylacrylamide, N- Methoxypropyl methacrylamide, N-ethoxypropyl acrylamide, N-ethoxypropyl methacrylamide, N-isopropoxypropyl acrylamide, N-isopropoxypropyl methacrylamide, N Ethoxyethyl acrylamide, N-ethoxyethyl methacrylamide, N-1-methyl-2-methoxyethyl acrylamide, N-1-methyl-2-methoxyethyl methacrylamide, N-1-methoxymethylpropyl acrylamide, N-1-methoxy Methylpropyl methacrylamide, N- (2,2-dimethoxyethyl) -N-methylacrylamide, N- (1,3-dioxolan-2-yl) acrylamide, N-8-acryloyl-1,4-dioxa-8- Other spiro [4,5] decane can be listed. Each of these vinyl compound homopolymers has a unique transition temperature.
[0020]
Further, the heat-sensitive polyacramide derivative may be a copolymer of the acrylamide vinyl compound and another copolymerizable vinyl compound used as the second component. Examples of these vinyl compounds include hydrophilic vinyl compounds (excluding the aforementioned acrylamide vinyl compounds), ionic vinyl compounds, lipophilic vinyl compounds, and the like, and one or more of these can be used.
[0021]
Examples of the hydrophilic vinyl compound include N-methylol acrylamide, N-methylol methacrylamide, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N, N-dimethyl acrylamide, acryloyl morpholine, diacetone acrylamide, hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl. Examples thereof include acrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-methoxyethyl acrylamide, N-methoxyethyl methacrylamide, N-methoxypropyl methacrylamide, 2-methyl-5 vinyl pyridine, N-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and the like.
[0022]
Examples of the ionic vinyl compound include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-1-propanesulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, and salts thereof, N, N-dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, N, N- Mention may be made of amines such as dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N, N-diethylaminopropylacrylamide, N, N-diethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and their salts.
[0023]
Examples of the lipophilic vinyl compound include Nn-butylacrylamide, Nn-butylmethacrylamide, N-sec-butylacrylamide, N-sec-butylmethacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert- N-alkylacrylamide derivatives such as butylmethacrylamide, Nn-hexylacrylamide, Nn-hexylmethacrylamide, acrylate derivatives such as ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, glycidyl methacrylate, acrylonitrile, vinyl chloride, Examples thereof include styrene and α-methylstyrene.
The copolymerization ratio of the vinyl compound used as the second component is usually 90 mol% or less, preferably 60% or less, based on the combination of these vinyl compounds.
[0024]
In general, the transition temperature of a heat-sensitive copolymer aqueous solution can be controlled by the type, combination, and composition ratio of vinyl compounds as constituent units. In that case, in a copolymer formed of two or more types of vinyl compounds in which the homopolymer is heat-sensitive, additivity is often established between the transition temperature of each homopolymer and its composition ratio.
[0025]
In the case where one or more homopolymers are copolymerized with one or more vinyl compounds that are thermosensitive and one or more other non-thermosensitive vinyl compounds that can be copolymerized, the copolymer is water-soluble by introducing these vinyl compounds. In general, the introduction of a hydrophilic vinyl compound tends to lower the transition temperature. The introduction of a large amount of lipophilic vinyl compound makes the copolymer water insoluble.
[0026]
In preparing an aqueous solution of a thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative, the concentration of the thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative varies depending on the type and molecular weight of the polymer used. For example, an aqueous solution of poly-N-isopropylacrylamide (hereinafter referred to as “polyNIPAM”) having a molecular weight of about 300,000 is 10 to 30%, preferably about 25%, and a polyNIPAM having a molecular weight of about 1,000,000 is 3 -10%, preferably about 5%.
[0027]
In preparing such an aqueous solution, a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative may be used alone, or two or more different heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivatives may be mixed and used. Furthermore, you may mix | blend 3rd components, such as various salts and surfactant, as needed. In this case, it should be noted that the transition temperature generally decreases or increases depending on the type and amount of the third component, as compared with a single aqueous solution of the thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative, by blending these third components. That is, such a viscous aqueous solution of a thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative has an inherent transition temperature determined by preparation conditions.
[0028]
A binding yarn such as cotton yarn is immersed and impregnated in an aqueous solution under such temperature conditions as to exhibit hydrophilicity below the transition temperature of such a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative, specifically at room temperature. Under a temperature condition in which the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is hydrophilic, an aqueous solution of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is soaked and impregnated deep into the fibers of the binding yarn. Thus, the binding yarn is sufficiently impregnated with an aqueous solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative and then dried.
[0029]
Then, this dried tie yarn is used to tie the yarn to be partially dyed or the portion to be dye-proofed of the yarn bundle. In this state, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is immersed in a dyeing liquid having a hydrophilicity not higher than its transition temperature, and then the dyeing liquid is heated, so that the dyeing liquid is higher than the transition temperature of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative. By raising the temperature to a temperature showing hydrophobicity, the bundled yarn or yarn bundle is dyed.
[0030]
The binding yarn, which combines the above-mentioned heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative that exhibits hydrophobicity at high temperatures and the characteristics of cotton yarn that shrinks with hot water, prevents the entry of dye from the outside by tightly binding the portion to be dyed. . The heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative adhering to the binding yarn starts to dissolve in the dyeing solution showing hydrophilicity below the transition temperature, and the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative starts to dissolve between the continuous binding yarn and the binding yarn. Elute and fill in small gaps. Since the elution is similarly performed in the parallel direction of the yarn bundle, the binding yarn and the yarn bundle are in close contact with each other at the beginning and the end of the binding yarn. Next, when the dyeing solution is heated and heated, and the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative reaches a transition temperature or higher, it becomes a rubbery and sticky surface form and exhibits hydrophobicity. In this state, the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative covers the surface of the binding yarn and exhibits a strong anti-dyeing performance.
[0031]
In addition, various yarns made of silk and having different yarn-making methods were pretreated with chromium acetate, aluminum acetate, iron acetate, titanium, sodium stannate, and copper acetate as mordants, and then each treated yarn was cassette-processed. Dye in one shape or a bundle of yarns and dye in one bath of natural dye liquid of one kind and one color at the same time. By doing so, even if yarns and yarn bundles treated by immersing in different mordants are dyed at the same time using the same dye, different colors and colors can be obtained, so that they can be dyed in multiple colors.
[0032]
Furthermore, in dyeing natural dyes, by adding acetic acid and sodium sulfate as auxiliary agents in the dyeing bath, the diffusibility, penetrability, and transferability of the dyes are suppressed, and fine and precise folds unique to Yuki are dyed. be able to.
Acetic acid added as an auxiliary agent promotes the coloring and fixing of the dye to the yarn, and among the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivatives, it lowers the transition temperature of poly NIPAM from 31 ° C. to 26.5 ° C. It can be dyed from the temperature, and when dyeing by gradually raising the dyeing temperature, it works effectively as a measure to prevent spotting.
In addition, sodium sulfate added as an auxiliary agent binds to the dye particles, and the dye particles become larger, so that the penetration and diffusion of the dye into the yarn bundle is reduced and the dye transfer property is also suppressed.
[0033]
If you try to resist only with a binding yarn impregnated with an aqueous solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative, natural dyes with good diffusion and permeability will penetrate into the wrinkles during strong and intense tapping. Since it is contaminated, it cannot be finely stained. Slightly wide lacing, simple wrinkles with little tapping and swallowing work, and dyeing of a kind called rough wrinkles in the production area are possible.
[0034]
In addition, as for the binding yarn, the currently used cotton yarn is used as it is, and only dyeing aids of acetic acid and sodium sulfate are used. Cannot be covered, and even wide dyeing is impossible. This is a dyeing method capable of treating only the knot yarn with a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative solution, adding a dyeing assistant of acetic acid and sodium sulfate to the dyeing bath, and gradually raising the temperature from a low temperature.
[0035]
By using a binding yarn made of cotton yarn impregnated with a solution of heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivatives, it exhibits hydrophobicity and resistance to thermal and physical stimuli, while it is hydrophobic and resistant to low temperature baths. Does not show much sex. That is, the surface film of the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative that has been physically dyed can be removed by washing with water when various processes such as flapping and ground color dyeing are completed. From this, it will not interfere with the unraveling after dyeing and the subsequent processes.
[0036]
【Example】
Next, examples of the present invention will be described specifically and in detail.
(Example 1)
To 30 parts of a thermosensitive polymer polyvinyl methyl ether 30% aqueous solution (Tokyo Chemical Industry, Reagent) and poly NIPAM mixed at 7: 3, add 100 parts of water, stir well, did. This treatment solution is put into a stainless bowl in an amount of 10 times the weight of unbleached cotton yarn (No. 6), dipped in unbleached cotton yarn at room temperature, squeezed to the average, and then naturally dried in the laboratory. This was prepared as a binding thread.
[0037]
Next, 6 sets of about 2.5 g / 1 case of hand-spun (silk, 160 denier) were prepared. A mordant, chromic acetate (Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Reagent) was dissolved in 10% of the yarn weight and 0.25 g in 50 ml of water. It was immersed for 30 minutes, squeezed to the average, washed with water, and then naturally dried in the laboratory.
[0038]
Similarly, aluminum acetate (Kanto Chemical Co., Reagent) 10%, 0.25 g, copper acetate (Kanto Chemical Co., Reagent) 20%, 0.5 g, wood acetate (Tanaka direct dye store, industrial chemicals) 40%, 1 ml, Titanium undiluted solution (Tanaka direct dye store, industrial chemicals) 40%, 1ml each is dissolved in 50ml of individual water, and each hand spun silk casket is soaked separately for each mordant at room temperature for 30 minutes and squeezed to the average After washing with water, it was naturally dried in the laboratory.
[0039]
Next, 6 pieces of yarn mordanted separately with each mordant were bundled together with the tie yarn. 6% Shibuki B solution (Tanaka Nao Dye Store, liquid vegetable dye) of 40% with respect to the yarn weight is dissolved in 450 ml of water to form a dyeing solution, and the bundled yarn bundle is immersed in this dyeing solution. After dyeing was started, the temperature was gradually raised and the dyeing was performed at a temperature of 90 ° C. for 30 minutes, followed by dehydration, washing with water, and natural drying.
[0040]
At this time, it was observed that the hues of the 6-set yarns mordanted with each mordant liquid were dyed in 6 different colors. The chrome acetate mordanting is brownish yellow, the aluminum acetate mordanting is slightly brownish, the copper acetate mordanting is brown, the wood acetate iron mordanting is greenish amber, and the titanium stock solution It was observed that the mordanting dyed a strong reddish brown, and the mordanting citric acid and sodium stannate dyed a bright yellow.
[0041]
Next, the yellow casserole with tea tasting with each mordant is chrome acetate, the yellow casserole with a slight tea taste is aluminum acetate, the brown casserole with copper acetate, and the greenish amber casserole with wood acetate Iron, strong reddish brown casserole is a titanium stock solution, and bright yellow cassette is individually mordanted with citric acid and sodium stannate. Tie 10 places in the width of 1, 2, 5 and 10 mm each with the treated tie yarn, 12 ml of catechu (Tanaka Nao Dye Store, liquid plant dye), 1 ml of acetic acid (Kanto Chemical, reagent), sodium sulfate (Kanto Chemical, reagent) ) 7.5 g was dissolved in 450 ml of water and used as a dyeing solution. Dyeing was started at 20 ° C., and the temperature was gradually increased, followed by dyeing at 90 ° C. for 30 minutes.
[0042]
In the middle of dyeing, at temperatures of 30, 50, 70, and 90 ° C., the fine part is penetrated 60 times for each temperature, the fine part is 50 times, and the wide part is 30 so that the dye solution permeates while being bundled. I put on rubber gloves and swallowed it by hand. Thereafter, it was dehydrated, washed with water, dehydrated, and naturally dried. After that, the binding yarn was unwound.
At this time, unraveling of the binding yarn can be easily performed, and it is observed that the portion dyed with the Shibuki B solution is clearly colored and dyed differently in six colors mordanted with each mordant solution. It was done.
[0043]
On the other hand, the chromic acetate mordanting part dyed the ground with catecheus solution is brown, the aluminum acetate mordanting part is slightly reddish brown, and the copper acetate mordanting part is reddish brown. The iron mordanting part is dyed brownish, the titanium stock solution is tinged with yellowish brown, and the mordanting part of citric acid and sodium stannate is dyed yellowish brown. Was observed.
[0044]
(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 1 above, a heat-sensitive polymer, two types of aqueous solutions, and untreated unbleached cotton yarn, unadded with acetic acid and sodium sulfate added at the time of dyeing with catechu of the ground part, Others were the same as in Examples, and mordanting, water washing, dyeing, mordanting, binding, dyeing, washing, dehydration, drying, and unwinding of the binding yarn were performed in the same manner.
[0045]
At this time, the dye of the catechu penetrates from above the bundled yarn and from the horizontal direction of the yarn bundle, the part that becomes a wrinkle is contaminated, and the surface that is tied to 1 mm and 2 mm width hardly remains as wrinkles, The inside of the yarn bundle was observed to be felt as a slight cocoon.
That is, the dyed portion that becomes a wrinkle is almost contaminated and does not become a wrinkle pattern, indicating that it cannot be used.
[0046]
(Example 2)
In Example 1, the dye and Shibuki B liquid were replaced with Enju (Tanaka direct dye store, liquid vegetable dye), and catechu was replaced with rack die (Tanaka direct dye store, liquid vegetable dye), respectively, in the same manner as in Example 1, The mordanting, rinsing, dyeing, mordanting, binding, dyeing, washing, drying, and unwinding were performed in the same manner.
[0047]
At this time, it is easy to unravel the binding yarn, and it is observed that the color of the wrinkled portion is dyed with the Enju liquor as it is, and is dyed differently in each of the 6 mordanted colors. It was done.
Chromium acetate mordanting is greenish yellow, aluminum acetate mordanting is clear yellow, copper acetate mordanting is yellowish green, wood acetate iron mordanting is khaki, and titanium stock mordanting is toki. In the mordanting of citric acid and sodium stannate, it was observed that each was dyed creamy.
[0048]
On the other hand, the chromic acetate mordanting part stained with rack die is slightly bluish purple, the aluminum acetate mordanting part is slightly reddish purple, and the copper acetate mordanting part has a strong tea taste. Purple, reddish amber at the mordanted portion of iron acetate, clear purple at the mordanted portion of the titanium stock solution, and a slightly yellowish red at the mordanted portion of citric acid and sodium stannate It was observed.
[0049]
(Comparative Example 2)
In Example 2, except that the binding yarn treated with the thermosensitive polymer and two kinds of aqueous solutions was unbleached and replaced with cotton yarn, in the same manner as in Example, mordanting, water washing, dyeing, mordanting, binding, dyeing, Washing with water, drying, and unwinding were performed in the same manner.
[0050]
At this time, the dye of the rack die penetrates from above the bundled yarn and from the horizontal direction of the yarn bundle, and the portion that becomes the wrinkle is contaminated, and the surface of the 1 mm and 2 mm widths hardly remains as wrinkles. The inside of the yarn bundle was slightly observed as a cocoon of about half the width.
The surface with a width of 5 mm and 10 mm was scarcely left as wrinkles, and the inside of the yarn bundle was slightly observed as wrinkles about two-thirds of the width. That is, the dyed part that becomes a wrinkle is almost contaminated and does not have a wrinkle pattern, indicating that it cannot be used.
[0051]
(Example 3)
In Example 1, the dye and Shibuki B solution were replaced with tangara (Tanaka direct dye store, liquid vegetable dye), and catechu was replaced with Koganebana (Tanaka direct dye store, liquid plant dye). Washing, dyeing, mordanting, binding, dyeing, washing, drying, and unwinding of the binding yarn were performed in the same manner.
[0052]
At this time, it is easy to unravel the binding yarn, and it is observed that the color of the wrinkles is dyed with tangara and is dyed differently in six colors mordanted with each mordant liquid. It was.
Chromium acetate mordanting is slightly reddish brown, aluminum acetate mordanting is beige, copper acetate mordanting is brown, iron acetate mordanting is reddish amber, titanium stock mordanting is yellow It was observed that the mordanting of citric acid and sodium stannate stained a light brown color with a brownish taste.
[0053]
On the other hand, the ground part was stained with Koganebana, the chromic acetate mordanted part is slightly brownish yellow, the aluminum acetate mordanted part is slightly reddish yellow, and the copper acetate mordanted part has a strong tea taste In yellow, the mordanted part of iron acetate is dyed greenish green, the mordanted part of the titanium stock solution is reddish yellow, and the mordanted part of citric acid and sodium stannate is dyed creamy. Was observed.
[0054]
(Comparative Example 3)
In Example 3, the mordanting, water washing, dyeing, mordanting, binding, dyeing, water washing, and drying were carried out in the same manner as in Example except that acetic acid and sodium sulfate added at the time of dyeing with Koganebana were not added. The unwinding was performed in the same manner.
[0055]
At this time, the dye of Koganebana penetrates slightly from the top of the bundled yarn, and from the horizontal direction of the yarn bundle, the dye penetrates considerably, contaminating the wrinkled part, and the width becomes 1 mm and 2 mm. Observed as a wrinkle about half the width of the bundle because the surface of the bundle is quite penetrating in the horizontal direction of the yarn bundle (commonly referred to as a headband in the production area) as if a line was drawn in the vertical direction of the yarn bundle. It was done.
The surface bound to a width of 5 mm and 10 mm was contaminated in a headband shape, and the inside of the yarn bundle was observed as wrinkles about 3/4 of the width of the neck. That is, the dyed part that becomes a wrinkle is considerably contaminated, and does not have a wrinkle pattern, indicating that it cannot be used.
[0056]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, the binding yarn according to the present invention and the method for dyeing textile yarn using the same can be woven into a fine pattern by reliably performing plain dyeing, stripe dyeing, and anti-dyeing in the wrinkle production process. A yarn dyeing method can be provided. Furthermore, it is possible to dye various colors in one bath, and various dyeings can be made while reducing work labor.

Claims (4)

水と共存する状態で、転移温度以上の高温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温で親水性に相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液を糸に含浸してなることを特徴とする括り糸。A thread characterized by being impregnated in a yarn with a solution of a thermosensitive polyacrylamide derivative that undergoes a phase transition to a hydrophobic state at a high temperature above the transition temperature and hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature. yarn. 水と共存する状態で、転移温度以上の高温で疎水性に、転移温度以下の低温で親水性に相転移する感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体の溶液を糸に含浸してなる括り糸で織物用の糸の防染すべき箇所を括り、感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が親水性を示すその転移温度以下の温度の染色液に浸漬し、その後染色液を加熱し、染色液を前記感熱性ポリアクリルアミド系誘導体が疎水性を示す転移温度以上の温度まで昇温することにより、括った糸や糸束を染色することを特徴とする織物用糸の染色方法。A tie yarn made by impregnating a yarn with a solution of a heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative that undergoes a phase transition to a hydrophobic state at a high temperature above the transition temperature and hydrophilic at a low temperature below the transition temperature in the state of coexisting with water. Bind the parts of the yarn to be dyed, immerse the dye in a dye solution having a temperature equal to or lower than the transition temperature at which the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide derivative is hydrophilic, then heat the dye solution, and use the heat-sensitive polyacrylamide-based dye solution. A method for dyeing textile yarn, characterized in that the yarn or yarn bundle is dyed by raising the temperature to a temperature equal to or higher than the transition temperature at which the derivative exhibits hydrophobicity. 予め染色する複数本の織物糸の一部または全部を異なる媒染剤に浸漬して処理した後、前記括り糸で一括りとした糸束あるいはカセ状にし、前記染色を行うことを特徴とする請求項2に記載の織物用糸の染色方法。A part or all of a plurality of fabric yarns to be dyed in advance are treated by immersing them in different mordants, and then the yarn is bundled or bundled together with the binding yarn and dyeing is performed. 2. A method for dyeing a textile yarn according to 2. 織物用糸を染色する染料が天然染料であり、その染色液に、硫酸ナトリウムと酢酸の少なくとも何れかを助剤として添加することを特徴とする請求項2または3に記載の織物用糸の染色方法。4. The dyeing of textile yarn according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the dye for dyeing the textile yarn is a natural dye, and at least one of sodium sulfate and acetic acid is added as an auxiliary agent to the dyeing solution. Method.
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