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JP3973917B2 - Wool fabric for formal wear using core yarn - Google Patents
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JP3973917B2 - Wool fabric for formal wear using core yarn - Google Patents

Wool fabric for formal wear using core yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
JP3973917B2
JP3973917B2 JP2002029501A JP2002029501A JP3973917B2 JP 3973917 B2 JP3973917 B2 JP 3973917B2 JP 2002029501 A JP2002029501 A JP 2002029501A JP 2002029501 A JP2002029501 A JP 2002029501A JP 3973917 B2 JP3973917 B2 JP 3973917B2
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Japan
Prior art keywords
core yarn
yarn
scale
fabric
formal wear
Prior art date
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Expired - Fee Related
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JP2002029501A
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Japanese (ja)
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JP2003227044A (en
Inventor
盛久 酒田
周一 倉田
達也 杉本
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Kracie Holdings Ltd
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Kanebo Trinity Holdings Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Priority to JP2002029501A priority Critical patent/JP3973917B2/en
Publication of JP2003227044A publication Critical patent/JP2003227044A/en
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Publication of JP3973917B2 publication Critical patent/JP3973917B2/en
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  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、スケール除去した動物繊維を含むコアヤーンを用いたフォーマルウエア用毛織物に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
羊毛等の動物繊維は、スケールを有するため、均一な染色、特に濃色染をし難く、また洗濯等における繊維の絡み合いによる収縮の問題もあった。
そこで、動物繊維のスケールを、塩素化処理等によって除去し、繊維表面を平滑にして、防縮性を付与すると同時に染色性も高めるという試みがなされている。しかし、この種の繊維は、表面が平滑になったため、製織した場合には、目ずれを起こし易く、品質のよい製織布を得ることができないため、編物に一部使用されるだけであった。
【0003】
一方、動物繊維は、優れた物性を有し、風合もよいので、フォーマルウエアとすることが求められるが、通常のスケールを残したままの動物繊維では、前述の如く、染色性等に問題があり、また、仮にある程度の色に染色できたとしても、表面に埃が着きやすいという問題もあり、満足できる製品を得ることはできなかった。
【0004】
また、特開2001−115351号公報には、ウールをアルカリ等でスケール除去した防縮糸を、伸縮性フィラメント糸(スパンデックス糸等)に巻きつけたものが記載されている。しかしこれは、伸縮性あるコアヤーンにおいて、洗濯性が良好で、芯糸が露出しない製品を提供することを目的とするものであり、伸縮性あるコアヤーンという性質上、その用途は編物に限られていた( [0007] 参照)。なお、当然のことながら、該公報には、伸縮性フィラメント糸以外の芯糸に関する記載は存在しない。
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、羊毛等の動物繊維を使用して、染色性や防縮性に優れ、しかも目ずれを生ずることなく、フォーマルウエア等としても、表面に埃が着きにくく、帯電防止性や電磁波シールド性にも優れた品質のよい毛織物を提供することを課題とする。
【0006】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者等は、スケール除去した動物繊維を、導電性を有するフィラメント糸に巻きつけたコアヤーンを用いた毛織物を提供することにより、上記課題を解決した。
【0007】
すなわち、本発明では、導電性を有するフィラメント糸を芯糸とし、その周囲にスケール除去した動物繊維を巻き付けたコアヤーンを、少なくとも一部に交織することにより、スケール除去した動物繊維を使用しながら、目ずれがなく、形状安定性に優れ、しかも表面に埃が着きにくく、帯電防止性や電磁波シールド性にも優れた、品質のよい毛織物の製造を可能とした。
【0008】
まず本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物に用いるコアヤーンは、スケール除去前の動物繊維を、導電性を有するフィラメント糸からなる芯糸に巻きつけ、コアヤーンを製造した後に、スケール除去処理を行ったものであっても構わないが、予めスケールを除去した動物繊維を、導電性を有するフィラメント糸に巻きつけたコアヤーンの方が、動物繊維を、芯糸に巻きつける前に先染めすることができ、均一な染色や濃色染が可能となり、また芯糸に金属が用いられていても、スケール除去処理に際する薬品等による金属の損傷の影響を被らず、制電効果が充分に発揮されるため好ましい。
【0009】
本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物は、前記コアヤーンを織物に、必ずしも100%使用する必要はなく、その他の糸と交織することもできる。その他の糸は、特に限定されるものではなく、天然繊維や合成繊維からなるものがいずれも使用可能であるが、特に、スケール除去した動物繊維からなる糸を使用する場合、交織における、目ずれ防止効果が高く、しかも風合いのよい製品を得ることができる。
【0010】
例えば本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物は、前記コアヤーンを織物に、仕上密度で、経緯とも、2cm以下、特に1cm以下の間隔に少なくとも1本存在するように織り込まれるのが好ましい。この場合、コアヤーンの織り込み密度は、織物の経緯によって異なってもよい。
【0011】
本発明では、コアヤーンの存在によって、織組織の主体に、その他の糸として、スケール除去した動物繊維からなる、表面平滑な糸を使用しても、織目にずれを生ずることなく、安定した製品を得ることができるのである。
【0012】
コアヤーンの芯糸となるフィラメント糸は、導電性あるものであればどのようなものであってもよく、例えばナイロン、ポリエステル等の合成繊維糸に金属メッキした糸、ステンレス、銅、アルミニウム等の金属糸がいずれも使用できるが、製品の風合や製織性等の点から、ナイロンやポリエステル等の合成繊維からなるフィラメントに導電性に優れた金属(銅、銀、アルミニウム、ニッケル、クロム等)のメッキを施した糸を使用するのが、好ましい。本発明では、芯糸に導電性を有するフィラメント糸を使用することにより、織物に帯電防止性や電磁波シールド性を付与することが可能となる。
【0013】
本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物に使用するコアヤーンとその他の糸の繊度は、同一であっても、異なってもよいが、無地の礼服等に使用する織物とするには同一の繊度を有するのが好ましい。この場合、その他の糸とコアヤーンの交織となっていることが外観的に分からないような均一な製品とすることができる。
【0014】
本発明で使用するスケール除去した動物繊維とは、スケール除去されており、防縮性ある動物繊維であればよく、スケールの除去方法は特に限定されない。例えば、塩素化法、塩素化/樹脂法、過硫酸アンモン法、過マンガン酸法(過マンガン酸カリ/塩法
やネバシュリンク加工とも言う)、過マンガン酸カリ/塩法、オゾン法、プラズマ処理、プロテアーゼ処理、およびこれらの組み合わせ等公知の方法で得られた製品がいずれも使用できる。
【0015】
中でも、塩素化法が、先染めした場合の染着力に優れるため好ましい。
【0016】
塩素化法としては、種々のものが使用でき、機械設備形態上の分類では、PadAcid−DCCA加工法,Split Pad法、Kroy/樹脂法、Deep−In法、Woolcomber’s SRW加工法等が挙げられ、使用する薬品加工剤の種類による分類では、連続次亜塩素酸法等の無機塩素化剤を使用する方法等があり、中でも、連続次亜塩素酸法の一種であるSplit Pad法、Kroy/樹脂法が好ましい。
【0017】
なお、動物繊維とは、羊毛、モヘア、カシミヤ、アルパカ、ビキュナ、リャマ、ラクダ、ウサギ等のいずれのものでもよいが、本発明では、最も入手し易い羊毛を使用して、高級感ある製品を得ることができる。
【0018】
なお、スケール除去した動物繊維は先染めし、その後にコアヤーンに形成したものを、同様に先染めしたその他の糸と交織するのが好ましい。この際、コアヤーンに使用される糸もその他の糸も、同色に染色しておくことにより、フォーマルウエア等としても利用価値の高い、非常に品質のよい濃色無地を得ることができる。
【0019】
本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物は、スケール除去前の動物繊維を、導電性を有するフィラメントに巻きつけたコアヤーンを製織した後に、スケール除去処理を行ったものであっても構わないが、スケール除去した動物繊維が導電性を有するフィラメントに巻きついているコアヤーンを製織した方が、製品化後だけでなく、製織中やスケール除去工程、染色工程での目ずれも防止できるため、好ましい。
【0020】
導電性を有するフィラメント糸を100%カバーするようにスケール除去した動物繊維を巻きつけると、金属メッキ糸等の導電性繊維が外から見えず、例えばブラックフォーマル等の礼服は、真っ黒に見えるため、好ましい。
【0021】
本発明における織物の組織は特に限定されるものではなく、平織、綾織その他、どのようなものであってもよい。
【0022】
【発明の実施の形態】
次に、本発明の実施例を示す。
実施例1
A)その他の糸として、塩素化法の中のSplit Pad法でスケール除去した羊毛糸40番手(羊毛番手)を、
コアヤーンとして、30d/10fのナイロンフィラメントに無電解メッキでニッケルメッキし、その上に銀メッキした導電性の糸(メッキ厚0.1〜0.5μm)を芯とし、上記と同様の塩素化法でスケール除去した繊度20.5〜20.7μmの羊毛糸を鞘とした、カバー率100%のコアヤーン40番手(羊毛番手)を準備し、経緯とも、A)3本、B)1本の繰り返しで、仕上がりが、経:67.8本/インチ、緯:61.2本/インチであるように製織した。なお、A)B)で使用した羊毛糸はいずれも予め黒色に濃色染色した。これらの糸はスケール除去されているため、均一な濃色染色が可能であった。得られた本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物は、全体に羊毛特有の風合のよいものであり、防縮性に優れ、しかも全体に均一な黒色織物となり、また、B)のコアヤーンの存在で、目ずれや割れのない、非常に品質のよいものであり、フォーマルウエア素材として実用性あるものであった。更に、B)のコアヤーンの芯糸が導電性あるフィラメントであるため、得られた本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物は、熱線反射性、電磁波シールド性や帯電防止性にも優れ、非常に多目的に使用できるものとなった。本実施例で得た織物の帯電防止性はJIS-L-1094摩擦帯電圧測定法で1KV 以下であり、電磁波シールド性はKEC 法で電界波シールド率90%(20dB)以上であった。
【0023】
【発明の効果】
本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物に用いたコアヤーンは、スケールを除去した動物繊維でありながら、目ずれのない、品質のよい織物を提供できるため、染色性や防縮性に優れた、フォーマルウエア等にも利用できる高級な毛織物を得ることができる。更に、本発明のフォーマルウエア用毛織物は、コアヤーンの芯糸として導電性フィラメントを使用しているため、織物表面に埃が付き難く、熱線反射性、電磁波シールド性や帯電防止性にも優れている。
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a woolen fabric for formal wear using a core yarn containing animal fibers from which scale has been removed.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Animal fibers such as wool have a scale, so that they are difficult to perform uniform dyeing, particularly dark dyeing, and there is a problem of shrinkage due to entanglement of fibers in washing and the like.
Therefore, attempts have been made to remove the scale of animal fibers by chlorination treatment or the like, to smoothen the fiber surface, to impart shrinkage resistance and to improve dyeability. However, since this type of fiber has a smooth surface, it tends to cause misalignment when woven, and a high-quality woven fabric cannot be obtained, so it is only partially used for knitting. It was.
[0003]
Animal fibers, on the other hand, have excellent physical properties and good texture, so it is required to use formal wear. However, animal fibers that leave normal scales have problems with dyeing properties as described above. In addition, even if it can be dyed to a certain degree of color, there is a problem that dust tends to adhere to the surface, and a satisfactory product cannot be obtained.
[0004]
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2001-115351 describes one obtained by winding a shrink-proof yarn obtained by removing the scale of wool with an alkali or the like around a stretchable filament yarn (spandex yarn or the like). However, this is intended to provide a stretchable core yarn that has good washability and does not expose the core yarn. Due to the nature of the stretchable core yarn, its use is limited to knitted fabrics. (See [0007]). As a matter of course, there is no description regarding the core yarn other than the stretchable filament yarn in this publication.
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention uses animal fibers such as wool, is excellent in dyeability and shrinkage resistance, does not cause misalignment, and is difficult to get dust on the surface, such as formal wear, and has antistatic properties and electromagnetic wave shielding properties. It is another object of the present invention to provide a good quality wool fabric.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventors have solved the above problems by providing a woolen fabric using a core yarn in which animal fibers from which scale has been removed are wound around a conductive filament yarn.
[0007]
That is, in the present invention, the filament yarn having conductivity as a core yarn, a core yarn wrapped with animal fibers obtained by removing the scale around, by interweaving the at least a portion, using an animal fiber obtained by removing the scale On the other hand, it was possible to produce a high-quality woolen fabric with no misalignment, excellent shape stability, less dust on the surface, and excellent antistatic properties and electromagnetic shielding properties.
[0008]
First, the core yarn used in the woolen fabric for formal wear of the present invention was obtained by wrapping animal fibers before scale removal around a core yarn made of conductive filament yarn to produce a core yarn, and then performing scale removal treatment. However, the core yarn in which the animal fiber from which the scale has been removed in advance is wound around the conductive filament yarn can be dyed before the animal fiber is wound around the core yarn. Dyeing and dark color dyeing is possible, and even if metal is used for the core yarn, it is not affected by metal damage due to chemicals etc. during scale removal processing, and the antistatic effect is fully exhibited preferable.
[0009]
In the wool fabric for formal wear of the present invention, the core yarn does not necessarily need to be used 100% in the fabric, and can be woven with other yarns. Other yarns are not particularly limited, and those made of natural fibers or synthetic fibers can be used. However, in particular, when using yarns made of animal fibers from which scale has been removed, A product having a high slip prevention effect and a good texture can be obtained.
[0010]
For example , the wool fabric for formal wear of the present invention is preferably woven so that the core yarn is woven into the woven fabric so that at least one is present at a finishing density and at a distance of 2 cm or less, particularly 1 cm or less. In this case, the weaving density of the core yarn may vary depending on the background of the fabric.
[0011]
In the present invention, the presence of core yarn, mainly the weave, as other yarns, consisting of animal fibers obtained by removing the scale, even surface using a smooth yarn, without causing deviation in texture, stable You can get a finished product.
[0012]
The filament yarn used as the core yarn of the core yarn may be any material as long as it is conductive. For example, a yarn obtained by metal plating a synthetic fiber yarn such as nylon or polyester, or a metal such as stainless steel, copper or aluminum. Any yarn can be used, but from the viewpoint of the texture and weaving of the product, the filament made of synthetic fiber such as nylon or polyester is made of a metal with excellent conductivity (copper, silver, aluminum, nickel, chromium, etc.) Preference is given to using plated threads. In the present invention, by using a filament yarn having conductivity for the core yarn, it becomes possible to impart antistatic properties and electromagnetic wave shielding properties to the fabric.
[0013]
Core yarn and fineness of other yarn to be used for formal wear for woolen of the present invention can be the same, may be different, in a fabric for use in plain robe, etc., to have the same fineness Is preferred. In this case, it is possible to obtain a uniform product in which it is not apparent from the appearance that the other yarn and the core yarn are interwoven.
[0014]
The animal fibers removing the scale used in the present invention are removing scale, long animal fibers in shrink resistance, the method of removing the scales is not particularly limited. For example, chlorination method, chlorination / resin method, ammonium persulfate method, permanganic acid method (also called potassium permanganate / salt method or Neva shrink process), potassium permanganate / salt method, ozone method, plasma treatment Any of the products obtained by known methods such as protease treatment and combinations thereof can be used.
[0015]
Among them, the chlorination method is preferable because it has excellent dyeing power when pre-dyed.
[0016]
Various methods can be used as the chlorination method, and the classification on the machine equipment form includes PadAcid-DCCA processing method, Split Pad method, Kroy / resin method, Deep-In method, Woolcomber's SRW processing method, etc. According to the classification of chemical processing agents to be used, there is a method using an inorganic chlorinating agent such as a continuous hypochlorous acid method. Among them, the Split Pad method, which is a kind of continuous hypochlorous acid method, and the Kroy / Resin method is preferred.
[0017]
The animal fiber may be any of wool, mohair, cashmere, alpaca, vicuna, llama, camel, rabbit, etc., but in the present invention, the most easily available wool is used to produce a high-class product. Obtainable.
[0018]
The animal fibers from which the scale has been removed are preferably pre-dyed, and the material formed on the core yarn is then interwoven with other pre-dyed yarns. At this time, by dyeing the yarn used for the core yarn and the other yarns in the same color, it is possible to obtain a high-quality dark solid color having high utility value as formal wear or the like.
[0019]
The wool fabric for formal wear of the present invention may be one obtained by weaving a core yarn in which animal fibers before scale removal are wound around a conductive filament and then performing scale removal treatment. It is preferable to weave a core yarn in which animal fibers are wound around a conductive filament because not only after product production but also misalignment during weaving, scale removal process and dyeing process can be prevented.
[0020]
When animal fibers from which scale has been removed so as to cover 100% of the filament yarn having conductivity are wrapped around, conductive fibers such as metal plating yarn cannot be seen from the outside, for example, black formal and other garments look black. preferable.
[0021]
The structure of the woven fabric in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be any plain weave, twill weave, or the like.
[0022]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Next, examples of the present invention will be described.
Example 1
A) As other yarns, 40 yarns (wool yarns) from which the scale was removed by the Split Pad method in the chlorination method,
B ) As a core yarn, a 30d / 10f nylon filament is nickel-plated by electroless plating, and then a silver-plated conductive thread (plating thickness of 0.1 to 0.5 μm) is used as the core, and the same chlorine as above. Prepare 40 core yarns (wool yarns) with 100% coverage by using wool yarn with a fineness of 20.5-20.7μm removed from the scale by chemical method. A) 3 yarns, B) 1 yarn In this way, weaving was performed so that the finished product had a warp of 67.8 pieces / inch and a weft of 61.2 pieces / inch. All the wool yarns used in A) and B) were pre-dyeed in black. Since these yarns were scale-removed, uniform dark dyeing was possible. The resulting formal wear for hair fabrics of the present invention is good wool specific wind if the whole, excellent in shrink resistance, yet becomes uniform black fabric throughout, and in the presence of a core yarn of B), It was very good quality with no misalignment or cracking, and was practical as a formal wear material. Furthermore, since the core yarn core yarn of B) is a filament which is electrically conductive, resulting formal wear for hair fabrics of the present invention, the heat ray reflective, excellent electromagnetic shielding property and antistatic property, a very versatile It became usable. The antistatic property of the fabric obtained in this example was 1 KV or less by the JIS-L-1094 friction band voltage measurement method, and the electromagnetic wave shielding property was 90% (20 dB) or more of the electric field wave shield rate by the KEC method.
[0023]
【The invention's effect】
The core yarn used for the woolen fabric for formal wear of the present invention is an animal fiber from which scale has been removed, but can provide a good quality fabric without misalignment. Can be used to obtain a high-quality wool fabric. Furthermore, since the wool fabric for formal wear of the present invention uses conductive filaments as the core yarn of the core yarn, it is difficult for dust to adhere to the surface of the fabric and is excellent in heat ray reflectivity, electromagnetic wave shielding properties and antistatic properties. .

Claims (3)

スケール除去した動物繊維が、ナイロン又はポリエステルフィラメントに、金属メッキした導電性を有するフィラメント糸からなる芯糸に巻き付いていることを特徴とするコアヤーンを用いたフォーマルウエア用毛織物。A woolen fabric for formal wear using a core yarn, characterized in that animal fibers from which scale has been removed are wound around a core yarn made of metal-plated conductive filament yarn on nylon or polyester filament. コアヤーンが、仕上がり密度で経緯とも、2cm以下の間隔で少なくとも1本織り込まれていることを特徴とする請求項1記載のフォーマルウエア用毛織物The woolen fabric for formal wear according to claim 1, wherein at least one core yarn is woven at intervals of 2 cm or less in terms of finished density and background. コアヤーンとその他の糸を用いた毛織物であって、コアヤーンとその他の糸同一の繊度を有するものであることを特徴とする請求項1又は2のフォーマルウエア用毛織物。The woolen fabric for formal wear according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the woolen fabric uses a core yarn and other yarns, and the core yarn and the other yarns have the same fineness.
JP2002029501A 2002-02-06 2002-02-06 Wool fabric for formal wear using core yarn Expired - Fee Related JP3973917B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2002029501A JP3973917B2 (en) 2002-02-06 2002-02-06 Wool fabric for formal wear using core yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2002029501A JP3973917B2 (en) 2002-02-06 2002-02-06 Wool fabric for formal wear using core yarn

Publications (2)

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KR100729676B1 (en) * 2006-02-17 2007-06-18 한국생산기술연구원 Method for manufacturing digital yarn for telecommunication using metal filament, manufacturing apparatus and digital yarn manufactured thereby
JP4996129B2 (en) * 2006-04-27 2012-08-08 株式会社大和 Composite yarn, textiles using the same and soundproof carpet
JP2015078456A (en) * 2013-10-16 2015-04-23 東レ株式会社 Fabric containing carbon black
CN103850117A (en) * 2014-02-21 2014-06-11 朱文潮 Deformation-preventing finishing method for cashmere fibers
JP6503934B2 (en) * 2015-07-02 2019-04-24 トヨタ紡織株式会社 Cloth
CN107379698A (en) * 2017-06-27 2017-11-24 太仓市玛雅针织有限公司 The good fabric of shielding property

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