JP4012278B2

JP4012278B2 - Multilayer fabric

Info

Publication number: JP4012278B2
Application number: JP01174797A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 知佐早川; 直樹片岡
Original assignee: Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp
Current assignee: Asahi Kasei Corp
Priority date: 1996-02-09
Filing date: 1997-01-24
Publication date: 2007-11-21
Anticipated expiration: 2017-01-24
Also published as: JPH09273085A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、変色を防止する多層布帛、詳しくは、ブラウス、スポーツシャツ、ズボン、ロングパンツ等の衣料用途の他、日用雑貨の用途においても好適に用いられる、水による変色を防止する性能を備えた多層布帛に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
雨にぬれたり汗をかいたりしたときに、肩、脇や背中など衣服がぬれたところだけ変色、より詳しくは深色化してしまい不快感を覚えることがある。また水たまりの水はね等によってズボン、ロングパンツの裾が変色したときも外観上著しく不快感を与える。
【０００３】
ぬれたときでも透けにくい繊維として、芯部に白色顔料を多く含む芯鞘型複合繊維糸を用いた布帛が知られている（特開平５−９３３４３号公報等）。しかしながら、これらは白色顔料によって芯部の光反射を大きくして、水による繊維表面の屈折率低下で生じた白色光の割合の減少の寄与を小さくするというものであるため、ぬれても透けにくいという効果があるものの、水にぬれると変色してしまうという欠点はそのまま残る。従って水による変色を防止する性能を備えた布帛はこれまで知られていない。
【０００４】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は水による変色を防止する性能を備えた多層布帛を提供することを目的とする。
【０００５】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明の構成を説明する前に、まず、一般に繊維が水にぬれるとなぜ変色するかについて説明する。
人間が物を見るとき、目はその物体の表面で反射した表面反射光と、物体の内部に入り、内部境界面で反射される内部反射光を合わせた光をとらえる。表面反射光は入射光と同じあらゆる波長の光を含んだ白色光であり、内部反射光は染料によりある特定の波長の光の吸収を受けた着色光である。ここで、この白色光の割合が大きいほど白っぽく、白色光の割合が小さいほど色が深く見えることがわかっている。水は繊維より小さい屈折率（ｎ＝１．３３）を持つが、繊維が水にぬれると繊維表面が水に覆われて低屈折率化し、表面反射率が小さくなる。よって水にぬれると変色、すなわち深色化することになる。
【０００６】
本発明者らは鋭意検討した結果、表層が白色顔料の含有量が１重量％以上６重量％以下の合成繊維糸（以下、ダル糸とよぶ。）、及び／又は白色顔料の含有量が３重量％以上１５重量％以下の芯部と、白色顔料の含有量が２重量％以下の鞘部を有する芯鞘型複合繊維糸で構成されており、裏層及び／又は中間層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸で構成されてなる多層構造布帛に充分な変色防止効果のあることを確認した。
【０００７】
本発明による多層布帛は、二層以上の多層構造を有する布帛であって、その表層が白色顔料の含有量が１重量％以上６重量％以下の合成繊維糸、及び／又は白色顔料の含有量が３重量％以上１５重量％以下の芯部と、白色顔料の含有量が２重量％以下の鞘部を有する芯鞘型複合繊維糸で構成されており、前記表層以外の層の少なくとも一層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸で構成されていることを特徴とする。本発明による多層布帛が三層構造を有し、中間層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸の原糸、裏層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸から成る捲縮伸長率１０％以下のフィラメント加工糸で構成されていると好ましい。
さらに二層構造を有する多層布帛において、裏層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸から成る捲縮伸長率１０％以下の加工糸で構成されていると好ましい。
【０００８】
本発明の布帛は二層以上の多層構造をなす布帛である。ここで多層構造とは見かけ上２種以上の組織が層状態で重ね合わせられ一枚の布帛が形成されている構造をいい、形態は織物、編物のどちらでもよい。例えば織物に関しては経二重織物、緯二重織物、三重織物等、二層以上の多層組織を用いることができる。編物に関しては、緯編地と経編地を含み、緯編地はダブル緯編機を用いると基本的に二層地となるが組織、糸使いによっては接結層を一層と考えると表層、裏層と共に三層以上の編地となる。例えば両面タックやプレーティングによって三層以上の緯編地も作ることができる。またシングル緯編機による平編のように一層の編地であっても組織によっては鹿の子編の如く特定の編目にタックを応用することによって編地に部分的に隆起を与えて見かけ上の二層にしたり、添糸編み（プレーティング）によって二層以上の緯編地にしてもよい。経編地では織物と同様に二層、三層、四層、五層編地等、多層に編成された経編地を含む。例えば表裏一体化したリバーシブルも多層構造を有する布帛である。用いる組織は織物、編物に用いる用途に応じて任意の組織を採用すればよく、但し表層から裏層及び／又は中間層が見えにくいものであると好ましい。
【０００９】
本発明の布帛は、その表層が白色顔料の含有量が１重量％以上６重量％以下の合成繊維糸（ダル糸）、及び／又は白色顔料の含有量が３重量％以上１５重量％以下の芯部と、白色顔料の含有量が２重量％以下の鞘部を有する芯鞘型複合繊維糸で構成されていることが肝要である。ここで表層とは着用した時に外側となる層を、また裏層とは着用した時に一番内側で肌に近い方の層をいう。
【００１０】
本発明において用いられる白色顔料は、染色しても発色性の低下に問題がなく原糸製造に障害を及ぼさなければその種類は特に制限されないが、例えば酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、酸化マグネシウム、炭酸カルシウム等の金属酸化物が望ましい。コストを考慮すると酸化チタンが最も適している。
【００１１】
表層に用いる糸の白色顔料の含有量は１重量％以上６重量％以下にすることが肝要であり、２重量％以上５重量％以下が望ましい。なぜならば白色顔料の含有量が６重量％を超えると糸の強伸度が著しく低下し、原糸製造及び製編織工程通過を困難にする上、ガイド等を磨耗させ毛羽や筋等の欠点を起こしかねない。また１重量％未満では本発明が目的とする変色防止効果が得られない。
【００１２】
芯鞘型複合繊維の場合は芯部の白色顔料の含有量が３重量％以上１５％以下であることが肝要であり、５重量％以上１０重量％以下が望ましい。芯部の白色顔料の含有量が１０重量％を超えると強度低下が徐々に始まり、１５重量％以上になると著しく強伸度低下をきたすからである。また３重量％未満では本発明の変色防止効果が得られない。そして芯部と鞘部はベースポリマーが同じであってもなくてもよい。例えばポリエステルの芯鞘型複合繊維の場合、鞘部のみカチオン可染ポリマーであってもよい。また、ポリアミドの芯鞘型複合繊維の場合、芯部がナイロン６６で鞘部がナイロン６であってもよく、任意の組合せを用いることができる。また、芯成分と鞘成分は同心円的に複合されていても偏心的に複合されていてもよい。また芯鞘重量比率は１／３〜３／１の範囲であることが好ましく、特に１／２〜２／１が望ましい。１／３未満であると変色防止効果が小さくなったり、３／１を超えると、紡糸時に芯成分を鞘成分で覆うことは困難となることがある。
【００１３】
表層に用いる繊維は例えばポリアミド、ポリエステル、ポリプロピレン等の、溶融紡糸によって製造される繊維が製造工程上望ましく、それらの原糸、フィラメント加工糸どちらを用いてもよいが、同じタイプの編物又は織物にした場合、捲縮のあるフィラメント加工糸の方がカバーファクターが大きいため、前記表層以外の層の変色がよりわかりにくくなるので好ましい。またダル糸よりも芯鞘型複合繊維の方が変色防止効果が尚一層優れているので好ましい。変色防止効果以外にも芯鞘型複合繊維はダル糸に比較して発色性、工程通過性も優れている。
【００１４】
本発明の多層布帛は、その表層以外の層の少なくとも一層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸で構成されていることが肝要である。ここで吸水・拡散性を有する繊維とは、水を吸収する性質及び／又は水を拡散する性質を有する繊維をいう。本発明において吸水とは、再生セルロース繊維、羊毛、麻、木綿、絹等の再生、天然繊維のように繊維基質そのものが水を吸収する性質に基く吸水と、疎水性の重合体で形成されている合成繊維の単繊維の捲縮、中空構造、異形断面構造等の繊維形態細繊度繊維の表面積効果に基いて繊維表面の保水機能を包含するものである。水を拡散する性質とは、前記した合成繊維の形態及び細繊度繊維の毛細管現象による繊維表面の水の移行性の大きい繊維の性能をいう。
本発明で用いられる吸水・拡散性を有する繊維は短繊維であっても長繊維であってもよい。
繊維基質が吸水性を有する繊維としては毛、綿、麻、絹等の天然繊維、人造セルロース繊維等がこの性質を有する。人造セルロース繊維の場合、長繊維原糸だけではなく、その加工糸が用いられる。このように水を吸収する性質を有する繊維糸を表層以外の層の少なくとも一層に用いれば表層に接触した水分は前記層の繊維に吸収されることになり、表層での変色を防止するのに役立つ。又逆に裏層に接触した水分は前記層の繊維に吸収されることによって表層に達する部分が少なくなり、表層での変色を防止するのに役立つ。又水蒸気状の汗も吸水することができ、これによる変色も防止することができる。
【００１５】
前記吸水・拡散性繊維糸として合成繊維糸を用いることができる。合成繊維糸の場合は繊維自体の吸水性が低いため、吸水性による効果は期待できず、捲縮による水の保持性及び合成繊維糸を構成する単繊維間の毛細管現象による水の拡散性を利用することになる。より具体的には断面形状がＬ、Ｃ、Ｗ、Ｚ、Ｍ、歯車形等の異形断面のフィラメント原糸及びそのフィラメント加工糸、多孔質繊維（空孔率５％〜４０％）のフィラメント原糸及びそのフィラメント加工糸、又は単糸デニールが１．５ｄ以下のファインデニールの原糸及びそのフィラメント加工糸を用いるとよい。水の通り道を多くして水拡散性を高めるには断面形状Ｗ又は歯車形の異形断面又は中空繊維にし、さらに単糸デニールを１．５ｄ以下のファインデニールにして繊維の表面積を高めるとよい。特にＷ形断面糸はこのＷ形断面糸が重なり合った時にできる細い毛細管により、毛細管吸引が大きくなること、又この断面形状であると一度保持した水を他に移すことなく（ぬれ戻ることなく）水を抱え持つ性質もあるため、多量の汗を生ずるスポーツ衣料に用いると、冷え感やべとつきを全く感じないドライ性を発揮して、変色防止性と着用快適性を兼ね備えたものにすることができる。
【００１６】
本発明における繊維の異形度は１．２以上２．２以下であると好ましい。又１．４以上、２．２以下であるとさらに好ましい。１．２以上であると丸断面よりも格段に水拡散性に優れたものとなり、２．２を越えると紡糸性等の製造安定性に劣るので好ましくない。本発明でいう異形度は、異形糸の断面積と周長（周囲の長さ）を算出し、次に同じ断面積を持つ真円の半径を求め、そこからその真円の周長を算出し、次式により求める。
異形度＝異形糸の周長／異形糸と同じ断面積の真円の周長
【００１７】
前記のように合成繊維の原糸にフィラメント加工を施して捲縮を与えると、捲縮による水の物理的保持によって水の保持性を高めた合成繊維糸を得ることができる。ただしこの場合の捲縮は低捲縮、すなわち捲縮伸長率で１０％以下、好ましくは５〜７％であるとよい。これは高捲縮であると物理的に水を保持するスペースは増すが、逆に水の拡散性が著しく低下することになり、布帛の変色防止にはマイナスに作用するからである。このように合成繊維糸の形状や加工条件を適切に選定すれば、吸水・拡散性において総合的に天然繊維や、人造セルロース繊維を上廻る繊維糸を得ることができる。
本発明で用いられる糸の太さはマルチフィラメントの場合で３０ｄ〜１５０ｄ、紡績糸の場合で１０ｓ〜４０ｓ（綿番手）が好ましく用いられる。たゞしこの太さの糸に限定されるものではない。
【００１８】
本発明の多層布帛の表層以外の層の少なくとも一層の繊維としては、後述する測定法によって求められる吸水性値及び水拡散性値それぞれ２ｃｍ以上及び１０ｃｍ以上の値を示す繊維を用いることが好ましい。合成繊維の異形断面繊維は、異形度を大きくすることによって、水拡散性値１０ｃｍ以上を示す繊維が容易に得られる。例えば、単糸デニールが１．７ｄ好ましくは１．５以下の繊維の場合、異形度が１．４以上を示すＷ形断面繊維で水拡散性値が１５ｃｍ以上を示すポリエステル繊維、ナイロン繊維を得ることができる。前記した空孔率を有する多孔繊維、中空繊維は、前記レベルの水拡散性値を有する繊維が容易に得られる。そして、異形断面繊維や多孔繊維等は、その形態効果に因って概ね２．１ｃｍ以上の吸水性を示す。
異形度が１．１〜１．４異形断面繊維でも単糸繊度１．７ｄ以下のものでは水拡散性値が１２ｃｍ以上を示す。捲縮伸長率が５〜７％の丸形断面繊維によっても水拡散性値１０ｃｍ以上、吸水性値２ｃｍ以上の繊維が容易に得られる。
【００１９】
前述の合成繊維糸の如く、水を吸収する性質及び／又は水を拡散する性質を有する糸を表層以外の層の少なくとも一層に用いれば表層に接触した水分は前記層の合成繊維糸に吸収され、更に吸収された水分は層内を移行して拡散することになり、表層での変色を防止するのに役立つ。又逆に裏層に接触した水分は前記層の合成繊維糸に吸収され、更に吸収された水分は層内を移行して拡散することになり、表層での変色を防止するのに役立つ。
【００２０】
表層以外の層が２層以上の場合には、一層に水分の吸収を目的として天然繊維又は人造セルロース繊維糸を用い、他の一層に前述の合成繊維糸を用いて水分を主として吸収する作用と水分を主として拡散させる作用を分離して与えてもよい。さらに２種以上の吸水・拡散性能の異なる合成繊維糸を用いて個別の層を作り、前述と同様に水分を主として吸収する作用と水分を主として拡散させる作用を分離して与えてもよい。
前述の吸水・拡散性能の異なる繊維及び／又は糸の組合せを単に層毎に行うだけでなく、糸内で行ってもよい。例えば異なる吸水・吸湿性を有する繊維同志の複合糸、吸水・吸湿性を有する繊維糸と水を吸収する性質及び／又は水を拡散する性質を有する合成繊維糸との複合糸、あるいは異なる水を吸収する性質及び／又は水を拡散する性質を有する合成繊維糸同志の複合糸を用いることができる。複合方法としては公知の各種の方法、例えばインターレース法又はタスラン（登録商標）法などのエアー混繊法、エアー混繊処理後に仮撚加工する方法、一方の糸を仮撚加工した後にフィラメント糸とエアー混繊させる方法さらに各種撚糸、精紡機による複合糸の製造、精紡交撚等の方法を採用することができる。
なお人造セルロース繊維の場合、フィラメント原糸だけでなく、そのフィラメント加工糸、又そのフィラメント加工糸を含んだ複合糸でもよい。
【００２１】
本発明の多層布帛の吸水性を高めるために多層布帛の染色仕上工程の最終段階で吸収剤を付与してもよい。このように吸水剤を付与すると合成繊維の水との親和性が向上し、水の拡散性が向上して変色の程度が小さくなる。例えば高松油脂（株）製のＳＲシリーズ、センカ（株）製のファインセットＦ１０１等の親水性共重合物を主成分とする吸水剤又は親水化剤を３〜５％ｏｗｆ付与すると良い。その際洗濯や長期着用に対する吸水剤の耐久性を向上させる仕上処理を行うと変色防止効果を長期間維持できるので好ましい。
【００２２】
本発明による多層布帛においては、前述のように各種の繊維の組合せを得られる多量布帛の用途に応じて任意に行えばよい。一般的傾向として言える好ましい組合せは表層が白色顔料を含有した合成繊維糸から成る層で表層以外の層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸で構成されている多量布帛、表層が白色顔料を含有した芯鞘型合成繊維糸から成る層で表層以外の層が吸水・拡散型繊維糸で構成されている多層布帛、および表層が白色顔料を含有した芯鞘型合成繊維糸から成る層で表層以外の層が人造セルロース繊維糸（吸水性を有する）で構成されている多層布帛があげられる。
なお本発明の発明者の現在迄の知見によれば、最も好ましい組合せとして下記２例をあげることができるが、本発明はこれに限定されるものではない。
▲１▼ 表層が白色顔料を含有した芯鞘型合成繊維糸から成る層で、裏層が異形度１．２以上２．２以下の異形断面で捲縮伸長率５〜７％の合成繊維捲縮糸で構成されている二層布帛。
▲２▼ 表層が白色顔料を含有した芯鞘型合成繊維糸から成る層、中間層が異形度１．２以上２．２以下の合成繊維糸の原糸から成る層、裏層が前記原糸に仮撚加工等の捲縮加工を行い、捲縮伸長率５〜７％にして合成繊維フィラメント加工糸から成る層で構成された三層布帛。
【００２３】
三層以上の多層布帛において、表層以外の二層以上の中何れか一層が吸水・拡散性繊維糸で構成されている場合に、他の層に用いる糸の繊維については特に限定なく、各種繊維を用いることができるが、吸水性評価試験において、１．５ｃｍ以上の値を示す糸を用いると好ましい。
又多層布帛を構成する各層の糸を前述の種類の単一の繊維で構成することが好ましいが、用途によっては５０％を限度として、より好ましくは３０％を限度として他の繊維を混用してもよい。混用方法は特に限定されず、糸複合であっても交編・交織等の編物状態又は織物状態での複合でもよい。
【００２４】
次に本発明による多層布帛を構成する糸及び多層布帛自体の各種物性値の定義及び測定又は評価方法を以下にまとめて説明する。
（１）捲縮伸長率
ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９０（１９９２）合成繊維嵩高加工糸試験方法、５．７伸縮法Ｂ法により測定する。
先ず下記方法により前処理した試料片をつくる。
試料を、試料に損傷を与えない様な棒に掛けて輪にしたもの５個作り、それぞれに２ｍｇｆ×試料表示デニール数の荷重をかける。次に、この５個の試料をひとまとめにして約５０ｃｍの間隔をおき上下を綿糸でしっかり結んだ後、直ちに除重する。続いて０．３ｍｇｆ×１０×試料表示デニール数の荷重を掛けながら９０℃で１５分間乾熱処理を行い、除重後一昼夜放置する。
このような前処理をした１０本１束の試料片を、前記ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９０，５．７伸縮性Ｂ法に基づき、２ｍｇｆ×１０×試料表示デニール数の初荷重をかけた状態で、試験長が約２０ｃｍになるよう試料片上部をクランプで固定し、３０秒後の試料長（ａ）を正確に測定する。次に、０．１ｇｆ×１０×試料表示デニール数の荷重をかけて３０秒後の試料長（ｂ）を正確に測定する。そして次式によって捲縮伸長率（％）を算出する。
捲縮伸長率（％）＝〔（ｂ−ａ）／ａ〕×１００
【００２５】
（２）糸の吸水性
多層布帛の吸水性は測定はできるが構成する複数の糸の吸水性が複合するので、糸そのものの吸水性が測定できない。そこで多層布帛を構成する糸をかせ巻きにし、目的とする多層布帛の製造に際して用いられる精練・染色・乾燥工程と同一条件で精練・染色・乾燥して試料糸とする。
ただし、使用糸がフィラメント糸の場合は実施例、比較例で用いられるフィラメント糸の単糸デニールと同一の単糸デニールの単糸を束ねてトータルデニールが７５ｄ±５ｄになるように試験用の糸を用意し、この糸に３００Ｔ／ｍの撚をかけ、１００℃×１５分間スチームでセットし、乾燥の後、２０℃、湿度６５％RHで一昼夜放置して試料糸を調製する。
使用糸が紡績糸の場合は、下記式で示す撚係数が１２０になるようなｍ当り撚数の撚を有する綿糸１０ｓに相当する太さと撚を有する糸を合糸によって調製し試料糸とする。
Ｔ＝α×√Ｎ
Ｔ：ｍ当り撚数、Ｎ：綿番手、α：撚係数
このようにして用意された試料糸から測定サンプルとして５０ｃｍ切り取り、上端を固定した状態で０．１ｇ／ｄの荷重を糸の下端にかけた後、下端を水（常温）につけ、１０分後に水の吸い上げ鉛直距離を測定する。評価は１０本の平均値をもって行う。この吸い上げ距離が２ｃｍ以上である場合に吸水性良好であると評価する。
【００２６】
（３）糸の水拡散性
吸水性の測定に用いた試料糸と同一の糸を用いて水拡散性を測定する。前記試料糸１ｍを切り取り、糸の一端を固定した状態で、もう一方の端に程近い部分を滑車にひっかけた後、その端に０．１ｇ／ｄの荷重をかけて水平に糸を張る。緊張下の糸の中央付近に０．０１ｃｃの水を与えて１０分後の水の水平方向移動距離を測定する。測定は２０℃、湿度６５％ＲＨ下で行い、１０本の測定値の平均で水拡散性を評価した。移動距離が１０ｃｍ以上の糸を、水拡散性良好と評価する。
【００２７】
（４）布帛での変色防止性の評価
下記に示す測色計による数値評価と官能評価を併せて行った。
（ａ）測色計による数値で示す色差（△Ｅ＊）
サカタインクス（株）製の測色計マクベスカラーアイ３０００を用いて測定する。
▲１▼ １０cm×１０cm程度の乾燥した試料サンプルを２つ折りにして測色計の直径２．５cmの測色部に当て光源Ｃを用いて測定し、知覚色度指数ａ^*，ｂ^*及び明度Ｌ^*を得る。得られた値をそれぞれ知覚色度指数及び明度のスタンダード値とする。
▲２▼ 次に水１ミリリットルを試料サンプルに与え３０秒後にぬれ拡がった部分を測定し、同様に知覚色度指数ａ^*，ｂ^*及び明度Ｌ^*を得る。得られた値をそれぞれ知覚色度指数及び明度のトライアル値とする。
▲３▼ 知覚色度指数ａ^*，ｂ^*及び明度Ｌ^*のスタンダード値とトライアル値との差を次式に代入して色差△Ｅ^*を得る。サンプル数は２である。
△Ｅ^*＝｛（△Ｌ^*）²＋（△ａ^*）²＋（△ｂ^*）²｝^1/2
（ｂ）官能評価
５人の検査員に目視による変色程度の評価を依頼し、得られた評価の平均値を下記官能評価基準により分類した。具体的には２０cm×２０cmの布帛の試料片を用意し、そのほゞ中央部分に１ミリリットルの水をピペットで滴下し、３０秒後に水の滴下によって変色した部分と周辺区域を比較する。
変色の小さいものから順に、
◎↑ 乾湿間の色の差が全くない
◎ 〃〃が殆どない
○ 〃〃あまりない
△ 〃〃ややある
× 〃〃大いにある
前記乾湿時の色差が大きい程官能検査で不快を感じる。好ましい乾湿時の色差は５以下である。
【００２８】
（５）工程通過性
実施例、比較例中で工程通過性が良いものというのは、編織工程で、編織機に対してガイド等への摩耗や傷を与えないものをいう。
【００２９】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明を実施例により以下詳述する。但し本発明がこれら実施例によって限定されるものではない。
各実施例及び各比較例の記載をより明確にするために、複数例に共通する物性値及び加工条件は実施例の記載に先立って一括して以下記載する。
又各実施例及び各比較例の評価結果はまとめて表１として実施例及び比較例の後に記載した。
【００３０】
（１）異形断面糸
Ｗ形断面を有する異形度１．５５の繊維からなる糸を使用

（３）染料
▲１▼ エステル繊維ＤｉａｎｉｘＢｌｕｅＵＮ−ＳＥ
１．０％ｏｗｆ（ダイスター（株）製）
▲２▼ セルロース繊維ＳｕｍｉｆｉｘＢｒｉｌｌｉａｎｔＢｌｕｅＲ
１．０％ｏｗｆ（住友化学（株）製）
【００３１】
（４）染色条件
▲１▼ ポリエステル繊維の染色
浴比１：４０
温度×時間１３０℃×３０分
ｐＨ５緩衝液（ＣＨ₃ＣＯＯＨ，ＣＨ₃ＣＯＯＮａ）
ソーピング
浴比１：２０
ソーピング剤サンモールＲＣ７００２ｇ／Ｌ
（日華化学（株）製）
ＮａＯＨ２ｇ／Ｌ
ハイドロサルファイトナトリウム２ｇ／Ｌ
（片山化学工業（株）製）
温度×時間９５℃×３０分
▲２▼ セルロース繊維の染色

ソーピング
浴比１：２０
ソーピング剤グランアップＰ１ｇ／Ｌ
（三洋化成工業（株）製）
温度×時間８０℃×１０分
▲３▼ ポリエステル繊維とセルロース繊維の複合布帛の染色
上記複合布帛の染色はポリエステル繊維の染色を行った後、セルロース繊維を染色した。
（５）吸水加工条件
浴比１：２０
吸水加工剤ＳＲ−１０００５％ｏｗｆ
（高松油脂（株）製）
温度×時間９５℃×３０分
【００３２】
（６）フィラメント加工の条件
下記２種類の条件で糸に仮撚加工し、捲縮糸を得た。
▲１▼ 仮撚加工条件（１）：
三菱ＬＳ−２を用い、スピンドル回転数２５万ｒｐｍ、撚数Ｚ−３２００Ｔ／Ｍファーストヒーター温度１９０℃、セカンドヒーター温度１８０℃、リラックス率１２％で仮撚加工し捲縮伸長率１８〜２２％の加工糸を得る。
▲２▼ 仮撚加工条件（２）：
三菱ＬＳ−２を用い、スピンドル回転数２５万ｒｐｍ、撚数Ｚ−３２００Ｔ／Ｍファーストヒーター温度１９０℃、セカンドヒーター温度１８０℃、リラックス率６％で仮撚加工すると捲縮伸長率７〜８％の加工糸を得る。
【００３３】
【実施例】
実施例１
表層には酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなる芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸、中間層には７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸の原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタン０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３３ｇ／ｍ²の両面タック地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し染色加工した。両面タックの編方図を図１に示す。ダブル丸編機で編成される編地は本来はシリンダー針とダイヤル針でそれぞれ編成される編地部分の結合体であり、その意味では二層編地である。しかし編地は立体構造体であるので、図１の２．５の編立によって表層が編成され、３．６の編立によって裏層が編成され、１．４で示す中間層によって表層と裏層が連結され、三層編地が得られる。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。
この編地は表１に示すようにぬれた時の変色が大変小さい。
【００３４】
実施例２
表層には酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸、中間層には７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸の原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３３ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色の後更に吸水加工をした。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すように、ぬれたときの変色が大変小さく、ぬれていることを感じさせない程度であった。
【００３５】
実施例３
表層に酸化チタンを３重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工をし、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸、中間層に７５ｄ／４５ｆで酸化チタンを含有しないキュプラの原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工をし、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１４０ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が小さい。
【００３６】
実施例４
表層に酸化チタンを１０重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率１８％とした糸を用い、中間層には７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸、裏層には７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工をし、捲縮伸長率７％となった糸を用いて、目付１４６ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００３７】
実施例５
表層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを３重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工をし、捲縮伸長率１９％とした糸、中間層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸の原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３０ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きいフルダル糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００３８】
実施例６
表層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを１重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率１９％とした糸を用い、中間層に７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルファインデニールの原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率が７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３５ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きいフルダル糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が小さい。
【００３９】
実施例７
表層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを５重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を用い、中間層は７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１％含有したポリエステルのファインデニールの原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１％含有するポリエステルファインデニール糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３８ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きいフルダル糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が小さい。
【００４０】
実施例８
表層に酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を用い、中間層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用い、裏層を７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタン０．１重量％含んだポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１４７ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００４１】
実施例９
表層に酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸と７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを３重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工をし、捲縮伸長率１９％とした糸を混率１：１で用い、中間層には７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルファインデニールの原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタン０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３３ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸とフルダル糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００４２】
実施例１０
表層に酸化チタンを１５重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を用い、中間層に７５ｄ／４５ｆのキュプラの原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１４３ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が小さい。
【００４３】
実施例１１
２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機のダイアル側で、酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸と、７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを０．３重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率１９％とした糸を芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表側に出るようにプレーティングにより天竺を編成した。また、別の給糸口よりシリンダー側で、７５ｄ／４０ｆのキュプラ糸を用いて天竺を編成した。更に別の給糸口より７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を上記加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いてシリンダー側とダイヤル側をタックで編成して一体化し、目付２００ｇ／ｍ²の四層編地を編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の７２％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が小さい。
【００４４】
実施例１２
表層には酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を２本引揃えて仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸Ａ、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタン０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を２本引揃えて仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸Ｂを用いて、目付１３０ｇ／ｍ²の裏鹿の子地を２８ＧＧのシングル丸編機で編成し、染色した。裏鹿の子の編方図を図２に示す。この編地の表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘構造糸が表層の８５％を占め、Ｗ形断面糸が裏層の５０％を占めた二層編地となった。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００４５】
比較例１
表層に酸化チタンを２重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を用い、中間層には７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸の原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３３ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地はぬれたときの変色が実用上支障を生じる程度に大きいものとなった。
【００４６】
比較例２
表層に酸化チタンを１６重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を用い、中間層には７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルのファインデニールを仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を、裏層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルを仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３３ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色は小さいものの、工程通過性が著しく悪いものとなり、実用不能なものであった。
【００４７】
比較例３
表層に７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを７重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を用い、中間層には７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタン０．１重量％含有するポリエステルのファインデニールの原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／９６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルのファインデニール糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１４０ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きいフルダル糸が表層の９１％を占めていた。この編地は表１に示すようにぬれたときの変色は小さいものの、工程通過性が著しく悪いものとなり、実用不能であった。
【００４８】
比較例４
表層に酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸と、酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を混率１：１で用い、中間層には７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸の原糸、裏層に７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３３ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の３９％、７５ｄ／３６ｆのポリエステル糸が４０％を占めていた。この編地は工程通過性が良いものの、表１に示すように、ぬれたときに変色するものとなった。
【００４９】
実施例１３
表層に酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸と、酸化チタンを３重量％含有するポリエステル糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸を混率１：１で用い、中間層には７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルのＷ形異型断面糸、裏層を７５ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（２）で加工し、捲縮伸長率７％とした糸を用いて、目付１３５ｇ／ｍ²の実施例１と同様の三層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の３９％、フルダル糸が４０％を占めていた。この編地は工程通過性が良いものの、表１に示すように、ぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００５０】
比較例５
表層には酸化チタンを４重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸（７５ｄ／３６ｆ）を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率２０％とした糸、裏層に７５ｄ／２４ｆで酸化チタン０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸を仮撚加工条件（１）で加工し、捲縮伸長率１９％とした糸を用いて、目付１２５ｇ／ｍ²の二層編地を２８ＧＧのダブル丸編機で編成し、染色した。この編地の表面の写真をとり、表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、捲縮の大きい芯鞘型複合繊維糸が表層の７６％を占めていた。この編地は工程通過性が良いものの、表１に示すように、ぬれたときに変色するものとなった。
【００５１】
【表１】

【００５２】
実施例１４
経糸を５０ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを８重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸と５０ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸、緯糸を７５ｄ／３６ｆで前述のポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸と７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸とし、常法の二重織機を用いて経糸密度２６０本、緯糸密度１５５本、目付１５０ｇ／ｍ²の平二重織物を織成し、染色、吸水加工を行った。この織物は、その表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、芯鞘型複合繊維が表層にみえる構造となり、ぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００５３】
実施例１５
経糸を５０ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを３重量％含有するポリエステル糸と５０ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸、緯糸を７５ｄ／３６ｆで前述のポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸と７５ｄ／３０ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステルＷ形異型断面糸とし、常法の二重織機を用いて経糸密度２６０本、緯糸密度１５５本、目付１５０ｇ／ｍ²の平二重織物を織成し、染色、吸水加工を行った。この織物は、その表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、フルダル糸が表層にみえる構造となり、ぬれたときの変色が大変小さい。
【００５４】
比較例６
経糸を５０ｄ／３６ｆで酸化チタンを２重量％含有する芯部と酸化チタンを０．０５重量％含有する鞘部からなり芯鞘重量比率１／１であるポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維糸と５０ｄ／２４ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸、緯糸を７５ｄ／３６ｆで前述のポリエステル芯鞘型複合繊維と７５ｄ／２４ｆで酸化チタンを０．１重量％含有するポリエステル糸とし、常法の二重織機を用いて経糸密度２６０本、緯糸密度１５５本、目付１５０ｇ／ｍ²の平二重織物を織成し、染色、吸水加工を行った。この織物は、その表面形態を画像解析で観察したところ、芯鞘型複合繊維が表層にみえる構造となり工程通過性が良いものの、ぬれたときに変色するものとなった。
【００５５】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、雨又は汗などによる布帛の変色を防止でき、その結果水による変色に基づく不快感のない布帛を提供できる。なお本発明の多層布帛は原料糸の製造時および布帛の製造時における糸切れ等のトラブルが殆ど無く、工程安定性が良好であった。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】多層布帛の一例を示す両面タック地の編方図。
【図２】多層布帛の他の一例を示す裏鹿の子地の編方図。
【符号の説明】
１，４…中間層編成用編方図
２，５…表層編成用編方図
３，６…裏層編成用編方図[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is a multilayer fabric that prevents discoloration, and more specifically, has the ability to prevent discoloration due to water, which is also suitable for use in daily goods as well as clothing such as blouses, sports shirts, trousers, and long pants. It is related with the provided multilayer fabric.
[0002]
[Prior art]
When it gets wet or sweats, it can discolor only where the clothes are wet, such as the shoulders, sides, and back, and more specifically, it may become discolored, causing discomfort. Also, when the trousers and long pants are discolored due to splashes of puddle, etc., the appearance is significantly uncomfortable.
[0003]
A fabric using a core-sheath type composite fiber yarn that contains a large amount of white pigment in the core is known as a fiber that is difficult to see even when wet (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-93343). However, these increase the light reflection of the core by the white pigment and reduce the contribution of the decrease in the proportion of white light caused by the decrease in the refractive index of the fiber surface due to water. The effect of discoloring when wet is left intact. Therefore, a fabric having the ability to prevent discoloration due to water has not been known so far.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of this invention is to provide the multilayer fabric provided with the performance which prevents discoloration by water.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
Before explaining the structure of the present invention, first, why the color changes when the fiber is wet will be explained.
When a human sees an object, the eye captures the combined light of the surface reflected light reflected by the surface of the object and the internally reflected light that enters the object and is reflected by the internal interface. The surface reflected light is white light containing light of all the same wavelengths as the incident light, and the internally reflected light is colored light that has been absorbed by light of a specific wavelength by the dye. Here, it is known that the larger the ratio of white light, the more whitish, and the smaller the ratio of white light, the deeper the color. Water has a smaller refractive index (n = 1.33) than the fiber, but when the fiber is wetted with water, the fiber surface is covered with water to lower the refractive index, and the surface reflectance decreases. Therefore, when it gets wet, it changes color, that is, deep color.
[0006]
As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that the surface layer has a white pigment content of 1 to 6% by weight and a synthetic fiber yarn (hereinafter referred to as a dull yarn) and / or a white pigment content of 3%. Consists of a core-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a core part of not less than 15% by weight and not more than 15% by weight and a sheath part having a white pigment content of not more than 2% by weight, and the back layer and / or intermediate layer absorbs and diffuses water. It was confirmed that the multi-layered fabric composed of the conductive fiber yarn has a sufficient discoloration preventing effect.
[0007]
The multilayer fabric according to the present invention is a fabric having a multilayer structure of two or more layers, the surface layer of which is a synthetic fiber yarn having a white pigment content of 1% by weight to 6% by weight and / or a white pigment content. Is composed of a core-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a core part of 3 wt% or more and 15 wt% or less and a sheath part having a white pigment content of 2 wt% or less, and at least one layer other than the surface layer is It is composed of water-absorbing and diffusing fiber yarns. The multilayer fabric according to the present invention has a three-layer structure, and is composed of a filament processed yarn having a crimp elongation of 10% or less, in which the intermediate layer is a water-absorbing / diffusing fiber yarn and the back layer is a water-absorbing / diffusing fiber yarn. Preferably.
Further, in a multilayer fabric having a two-layer structure, it is preferable that the back layer is composed of a processed yarn made of water-absorbing / diffusing fiber yarns and having a crimp elongation of 10% or less.
[0008]
The fabric of the present invention is a fabric having a multilayer structure of two or more layers. Here, the multilayer structure means a structure in which two or more kinds of structures are superposed in a layered state to form a single fabric, and the form may be either a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. For example, with respect to the woven fabric, a multi-layered structure of two or more layers such as a warp double woven fabric, a weft double woven fabric, and a triple woven fabric can be used. Concerning knitted fabrics, weft and warp knitted fabrics are included, and weft knitted fabrics are basically double-layered when a double weft knitting machine is used. It becomes a knitted fabric of three layers or more together with the back layer. For example, weft fabrics of three or more layers can be made by double-sided tack or plating. Even in a single knitted fabric such as a flat knitting machine with a single weft knitting machine, depending on the organization, a tuck is applied to a specific knitted fabric such as the Kanoko knitting to partially raise the knitted fabric and make two apparent appearances. Layers or two or more layers of weft knitted fabric may be formed by splicing (plating). The warp knitted fabric includes warp knitted fabrics knitted in multiple layers, such as two-layer, three-layer, four-layer, and five-layer knitted fabric, as in the case of the woven fabric. For example, the reversible integrated front and back is a fabric having a multilayer structure. The structure to be used may be any structure depending on the use used for the woven fabric and the knitted fabric. However, it is preferable that the back layer and / or the intermediate layer are hardly visible from the surface layer.
[0009]
In the fabric of the present invention, the surface layer has a white pigment content of 1% by weight to 6% by weight of synthetic fiber yarn (dull yarn) and / or a white pigment content of 3% by weight to 15% by weight. It is important to be composed of a core-sheath composite fiber yarn having a core and a sheath having a white pigment content of 2% by weight or less. Here, the surface layer refers to the layer that is on the outside when worn, and the back layer refers to the layer that is closest to the skin on the innermost side when worn.
[0010]
The type of white pigment used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it does not cause a problem of deterioration in color developability even if dyeing and does not impair the production of raw yarn. For example, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, magnesium oxide, calcium carbonate Metal oxides such as are desirable. In view of cost, titanium oxide is most suitable.
[0011]
It is important that the content of the white pigment in the yarn used for the surface layer is 1% by weight to 6% by weight, and preferably 2% by weight to 5% by weight. This is because when the white pigment content exceeds 6% by weight, the strength and elongation of the yarn is remarkably lowered, making it difficult to manufacture the yarn and passing through the weaving and weaving process. It can happen. On the other hand, if it is less than 1% by weight, the intended discoloration prevention effect of the present invention cannot be obtained.
[0012]
In the case of the core-sheath type composite fiber, it is important that the content of the white pigment in the core is 3% by weight or more and 15% or less, and preferably 5% by weight or more and 10% by weight or less. This is because when the content of the white pigment in the core exceeds 10% by weight, the strength starts to gradually decrease, and when it exceeds 15% by weight, the strength and elongation are significantly decreased. If it is less than 3% by weight, the effect of preventing discoloration of the present invention cannot be obtained. And the core part and the sheath part may or may not have the same base polymer. For example, in the case of polyester core-sheath type composite fiber, only the sheath part may be a cationic dyeable polymer. Further, in the case of polyamide core-sheath type composite fiber, the core part may be nylon 66 and the sheath part may be nylon 6, and any combination can be used. Further, the core component and the sheath component may be combined concentrically or may be combined eccentrically. The core-sheath weight ratio is preferably in the range of 1/3 to 3/1, and more preferably 1/2 to 2/1. If it is less than 1/3, the effect of preventing discoloration may be reduced, and if it exceeds 3/1, it may be difficult to cover the core component with a sheath component during spinning.
[0013]
The fibers used for the surface layer are, for example, fibers produced by melt spinning, such as polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, etc., which are desirable in the production process, and either the original yarn or the filament processed yarn may be used. In this case, crimped filament processed yarn is preferable because the cover factor is larger and discoloration of the layers other than the surface layer becomes more difficult to understand. Further, the core-sheath type composite fiber is more preferable than the dull yarn because the discoloration preventing effect is still more excellent. In addition to the effect of preventing discoloration, the core-sheath type composite fiber is superior in color developability and process passability compared to the dull yarn.
[0014]
In the multilayer fabric of the present invention, it is important that at least one layer other than the surface layer is composed of water-absorbing / diffusing fiber yarns. Here, the fiber having water absorption / diffusibility refers to a fiber having a property of absorbing water and / or a property of diffusing water. In the present invention, water absorption refers to the formation of regenerated cellulose fibers, wool, hemp, cotton, silk, etc., water absorption based on the property that the fiber substrate itself absorbs water, such as natural fibers, and a hydrophobic polymer. The water retention function of the fiber surface is included based on the surface area effect of the fine fiber with fine fiber shape such as crimp of single fiber of synthetic fiber, hollow structure, modified cross-section structure and the like. The property of diffusing water refers to the performance of a fiber having a high water transferability on the fiber surface due to the form of the synthetic fiber and the capillary phenomenon of the fine fiber.
The water-absorbing / diffusing fiber used in the present invention may be a short fiber or a long fiber.
As a fiber in which the fiber substrate has water absorption, natural fibers such as hair, cotton, hemp, silk, and artificial cellulose fibers have this property. In the case of artificial cellulose fibers, not only long fiber yarns but also processed yarns are used. In this way, if the fiber yarn having the property of absorbing water is used in at least one layer other than the surface layer, the moisture in contact with the surface layer is absorbed by the fibers of the layer to prevent discoloration in the surface layer. Useful. On the contrary, the moisture that has contacted the back layer is absorbed by the fibers of the layer so that the portion reaching the surface layer is reduced, which helps to prevent discoloration in the surface layer. Also, water vapor-like sweat can be absorbed, and discoloration due to this can be prevented.
[0015]
A synthetic fiber yarn can be used as the water absorbing / diffusing fiber yarn. In the case of synthetic fiber yarns, the fiber itself has low water absorption, so the effect of water absorption cannot be expected, and the water retention by crimping and the water diffusibility by capillary action between the single fibers constituting the synthetic fiber yarn Will be used. More specifically, the filament raw yarn having a cross-sectional shape such as L, C, W, Z, M, a gear-shaped cross section, the filament processed yarn, and the filament raw material having a porous fiber (porosity 5% to 40%) It is preferable to use a yarn and its filament processed yarn, or a fine denier raw yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 d or less and its filament processed yarn. To increase the water diffusibility by increasing the number of water passages, it is preferable to increase the surface area of the fiber by making the cross-sectional shape W or an irregular cross-section having a gear shape or hollow fiber, and further making the single yarn denier fine denier of 1.5 d or less. In particular, the W-shaped cross-section yarn has a large capillary suction due to the thin capillaries formed when the W-shaped cross-sectional yarns overlap, and the cross-sectional shape does not transfer the water once retained (without wetting back). Since it has the property of holding water, it can be used for sports clothing that generates a lot of sweat, and it can exhibit dryness that does not feel cold or stickiness at all, making it both anti-discoloration and comfortable to wear. it can.
[0016]
In the present invention, the fiber irregularity is preferably 1.2 or more and 2.2 or less. Moreover, it is further more preferable in it being 1.4 or more and 2.2 or less. If it is 1.2 or more, water diffusibility is remarkably superior to that of a round cross section, and if it exceeds 2.2, production stability such as spinnability is inferior. In the present invention, the degree of deformity is calculated by calculating the cross-sectional area and circumference (peripheral length) of the deformed yarn, then calculating the radius of a perfect circle having the same cross-sectional area, and calculating the circumference of the true circle therefrom. And obtained by the following equation.
Deformation degree = circumference of deformed yarn / circumference of a perfect circle with the same cross-sectional area as the deformed yarn
[0017]
As described above, when a synthetic fiber yarn is subjected to filament processing to be crimped, a synthetic fiber yarn having improved water retention by physical retention of water by crimping can be obtained. However, the crimp in this case is low crimp, that is, the crimp elongation rate is 10% or less, preferably 5 to 7%. This is because, if the crimp is highly crimped, the space for physically holding water is increased, but conversely, the diffusibility of water is remarkably lowered, and this has a negative effect on preventing discoloration of the fabric. As described above, when the shape and processing conditions of the synthetic fiber yarn are appropriately selected, it is possible to obtain a fiber yarn that generally exceeds natural fibers and artificial cellulose fibers in terms of water absorption and diffusibility.
The thickness of the yarn used in the present invention is preferably 30d to 150d in the case of multifilament and 10s to 40s (cotton count) in the case of spun yarn. The thread is not limited to this thickness.
[0018]
As the fibers of at least one layer other than the surface layer of the multilayer fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use fibers exhibiting a water absorption value and a water diffusivity value determined by a measurement method described later of 2 cm or more and 10 cm or more, respectively. As the modified cross-section fiber of the synthetic fiber, a fiber exhibiting a water diffusibility value of 10 cm or more can be easily obtained by increasing the degree of deformation. For example, in the case of a fiber having a single yarn denier of 1.7 d, preferably 1.5 or less, a polyester fiber or nylon fiber having a W-shaped cross-section fiber having an irregularity of 1.4 or more and a water diffusibility value of 15 cm or more is obtained. be able to. As for the porous fiber and the hollow fiber having the porosity described above, the fiber having the water diffusibility value of the above level can be easily obtained. And irregular cross-section fiber, porous fiber, etc. show a water absorption of about 2.1 cm or more due to their morphological effects.
Even if the irregularity is 1.1 to 1.4 and the irregular cross-section fiber has a single yarn fineness of 1.7 d or less, the water diffusibility value is 12 cm or more. Even with a round cross-section fiber having a crimp elongation of 5 to 7%, a fiber having a water diffusibility value of 10 cm or more and a water absorption value of 2 cm or more can be easily obtained.
[0019]
If the yarn having the property of absorbing water and / or the property of diffusing water is used in at least one layer other than the surface layer like the above-mentioned synthetic fiber yarn, the moisture in contact with the surface layer is absorbed by the synthetic fiber yarn of the layer. Further, the absorbed moisture migrates in the layer and diffuses, which helps to prevent discoloration in the surface layer. On the contrary, the water contacted with the back layer is absorbed by the synthetic fiber yarn of the layer, and further the absorbed water migrates and diffuses within the layer, which helps to prevent discoloration in the surface layer.
[0020]
When there are two or more layers other than the surface layer, the natural fiber or artificial cellulose fiber yarn is used for the purpose of absorbing moisture in one layer, and the above-mentioned synthetic fiber yarn is used for the other layer to absorb moisture mainly. The action of mainly diffusing moisture may be provided separately. Furthermore, two or more types of synthetic fiber yarns having different water absorption / diffusion performances may be used to form individual layers, and the function of mainly absorbing moisture and the function of mainly diffusing moisture may be provided separately as described above.
The combination of fibers and / or yarns having different water absorption / diffusion performance as described above may be performed not only in each layer but also in the yarn. For example, composite yarns of fibers having different water absorption / hygroscopicity, fiber yarns having water absorption / hygroscopicity and synthetic fiber yarns having the property of absorbing water and / or the property of diffusing water, or different water A composite yarn of synthetic fiber yarns having the property of absorbing and / or the property of diffusing water can be used. As a composite method, various known methods, for example, an air fiber mixing method such as an interlace method or Taslan (registered trademark) method, a method of false twisting after air fiber mixing treatment, a filament yarn after false twisting of one yarn, It is possible to employ a method of air-mixing, various twisted yarns, production of composite yarns using a spinning machine, fine spinning and twisting.
In the case of an artificial cellulose fiber, not only the filament yarn, but also a filament processed yarn or a composite yarn including the filament processed yarn may be used.
[0021]
In order to increase the water absorption of the multilayer fabric of the present invention, an absorbent may be added at the final stage of the dyeing finish process of the multilayer fabric. When the water-absorbing agent is applied in this way, the affinity of the synthetic fiber with water is improved, the water diffusibility is improved, and the degree of discoloration is reduced. For example, a water-absorbing agent or a hydrophilizing agent mainly composed of a hydrophilic copolymer such as SR series manufactured by Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd. or Fine Set F101 manufactured by Senka Co., Ltd. may be added. At that time, it is preferable to perform a finishing treatment that improves the durability of the water-absorbing agent for washing and long-term wearing because the discoloration preventing effect can be maintained for a long time.
[0022]
In the multilayer fabric by this invention, what is necessary is just to carry out arbitrarily according to the use of the mass fabric which can obtain the combination of various fibers as mentioned above. A preferred combination that can be said as a general tendency is that the surface layer is a layer made of synthetic fiber yarn containing a white pigment, and a layer other than the surface layer is composed of water-absorbing / diffusing fiber yarns, and the surface layer is a core sheath containing a white pigment. A multilayer fabric in which layers other than the surface layer are composed of water-absorbing and diffusing fiber yarns, and a layer composed of core-sheath type synthetic fiber yarns containing a white pigment and a layer other than the surface layer A multilayer fabric composed of artificial cellulose fiber yarn (having water absorption) can be mentioned.
In addition, according to the knowledge of the present inventors to date, the following two examples can be given as the most preferable combinations, but the present invention is not limited to these.
(1) Synthetic fibers having a surface layer composed of a core-sheath type synthetic fiber yarn containing a white pigment, and a back layer having a deformed cross section having a deformity of 1.2 or more and 2.2 or less and having a crimp elongation of 5 to 7% A two-layer fabric composed of crimped yarn.
(2) The surface layer is a layer made of a core-sheath type synthetic fiber yarn containing a white pigment, the intermediate layer is a layer made of a synthetic fiber yarn having a deformity of 1.2 or more and 2.2 or less, and the back layer is the raw yarn A three-layer fabric comprising a layer made of synthetic fiber filament processed yarns, which is subjected to crimping such as false twisting to a crimp elongation rate of 5 to 7%.
[0023]
In a multilayer fabric of three or more layers, when any one of two or more layers other than the surface layer is composed of water-absorbing / diffusible fiber yarns, the yarn fibers used for the other layers are not particularly limited, and various fibers However, it is preferable to use a yarn having a value of 1.5 cm or more in the water absorption evaluation test.
In addition, it is preferable that the yarn of each layer constituting the multilayer fabric is composed of a single fiber of the above-mentioned type, but depending on the application, other fibers may be mixed up to a limit of 50%, more preferably 30%. Also good. The mixing method is not particularly limited, and may be a yarn composite or a composite in a knitted state or woven state such as knitted or woven.
[0024]
Next, definitions and measurement or evaluation methods of various physical property values of the yarns constituting the multilayer fabric according to the present invention and the multilayer fabric itself will be described below.
(1) Crimp elongation rate
JIS-L-1090 (1992) synthetic fiber bulky processed yarn test method, 5.7 Stretching method Measured by the B method.
First, a pretreated sample piece is prepared by the following method.
Samples are made in a circle by hanging them on a rod that does not damage the sample, and a load of 2 mgf × sample display denier is applied to each sample. Next, these five samples are put together and spaced about 50 cm apart, and the top and bottom are tightly tied with cotton yarn, and then immediately deweighted. Subsequently, dry heat treatment is performed at 90 ° C. for 15 minutes while applying a load of 0.3 mgf × 10 × sample display denier, and the sample is allowed to stand for 24 hours after dewetting.
In a state in which an initial load of 2 mgf × 10 × sample display denier number was applied to a sample piece of 10 bundles, which had been pretreated, based on the JIS-L-1090, 5.7 stretch B method, The upper part of the sample piece is fixed with a clamp so that the test length is about 20 cm, and the sample length (a) after 30 seconds is accurately measured. Next, the sample length (b) after 30 seconds is accurately measured by applying a load of 0.1 gf × 10 × sample display denier number. Then, the crimp expansion rate (%) is calculated by the following equation.
Crimp elongation (%) = [(ba) / a] × 100
[0025]
(2) Water absorbency of yarn
Although the water absorption of the multilayer fabric can be measured, the water absorption of the plurality of yarns constituting the composite is combined, so the water absorption of the yarn itself cannot be measured. Therefore, the yarn constituting the multilayer fabric is skeined and scoured / dyed / dried under the same conditions as the scouring / dyeing / drying steps used in the production of the desired multilayer fabric to obtain a sample yarn.
However, when the yarn used is a filament yarn, the test yarn is bundled with the same single yarn denier as the filament yarn used in the examples and comparative examples so that the total denier is 75d ± 5d. A yarn of 300 T / m is twisted on this yarn, set with steam at 100 ° C. for 15 minutes, dried, and allowed to stand overnight at 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH to prepare a sample yarn.
When the yarn used is a spun yarn, a yarn having a thickness and a twist corresponding to the cotton yarn 10s having a twist of the number of twists per m so that the twist coefficient represented by the following formula is 120 is prepared as a sample yarn by combining the yarns. .
T = α × √N
T: Number of twists per m, N: Cotton count, α: Twist factor
After cutting 50 cm from the sample yarn prepared in this way as a measurement sample and applying a load of 0.1 g / d to the lower end of the yarn with the upper end fixed, the lower end is immersed in water (room temperature) and 10 minutes later Measure uptake vertical distance. The evaluation is performed with an average value of 10 pieces. When this wicking distance is 2 cm or more, it is evaluated that water absorption is good.
[0026]
(3) Water diffusibility of yarn
The water diffusivity is measured using the same yarn as the sample yarn used for water absorption measurement. The sample yarn 1m is cut out, and one end of the yarn is fixed, and a portion close to the other end is caught on the pulley, and then a load of 0.1 g / d is applied to the end to stretch the yarn horizontally. Apply 0.01 cc of water near the center of the thread under tension, and measure the horizontal movement distance of water 10 minutes later. The measurement was performed at 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH, and the water diffusibility was evaluated by averaging 10 measured values. A yarn having a moving distance of 10 cm or more is evaluated as having good water diffusibility.
[0027]
(4) Evaluation of discoloration prevention property in fabric
Numerical evaluation and sensory evaluation by the colorimeter shown below were performed together.
(A) Color difference (△ E *) indicated by a numerical value by a colorimeter
Measurement is carried out using a colorimeter Macbeth Color Eye 3000 manufactured by Sakata Inx Corporation.
(1) A dried sample sample having a size of about 10 cm × 10 cm is folded in half and applied to a colorimetric part having a diameter of 2.5 cm using a light source C, and a perceptual chromaticity index a^*, B^*And brightness L^*Get. The obtained values are used as standard values of perceptual chromaticity index and lightness, respectively.
(2) Next, 1 ml of water was applied to the sample sample, and the portion that was wet and spread after 30 seconds was measured. Similarly, the perceptual chromaticity index a^*, B^*And brightness L^*Get. The obtained values are used as perceptual chromaticity index and lightness trial values, respectively.
(3) Perceived chromaticity index a^*, B^*And brightness L^*Color difference △ E by substituting the difference between the standard value and trial value of^*Get. The number of samples is 2.
△ E^*= {(△ L^*)²+ (△ a^*)²+ (△ b^*)²}^1/2
(B) Sensory evaluation
Five inspectors were asked to evaluate the degree of visual discoloration, and the average value of the obtained evaluations was classified according to the following sensory evaluation criteria. Specifically, a sample piece of a fabric of 20 cm × 20 cm is prepared, and 1 milliliter of water is dropped with a pipette on the central portion, and after 30 seconds, the portion discolored by dripping water is compared with the surrounding area.
In order from the smallest discoloration,
◎ ↑ There is no color difference between wet and dry
◎ There is almost no 〃〃
○ 〃〃 Not very much
△ 〃〃 Somewhat
× 〃〃 There are many
The greater the color difference during wet and dry, the more uncomfortable the sensory test is. A preferable color difference at the time of wet and dry is 5 or less.
[0028]
(5) Process passability
In the examples and comparative examples, the one having good process passability means that in the knitting process, the guide or the like is not worn or scratched on the knitting machine.
[0029]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples.
In order to make the description of each example and each comparative example clearer, physical property values and processing conditions common to a plurality of examples are collectively described below prior to the description of the examples.
The evaluation results of each example and each comparative example are collectively shown in Table 1 after the examples and comparative examples.
[0030]
(1) Deformed cross-section yarn
Using yarn made of fibers with a W-shaped cross section and an irregularity of 1.55

(3) Dye
▲ 1 ▼ Ester fiber Dianix Blue UN-SE
1.0% owf (Dystar Co., Ltd.)
(2) Cellulose fiber Sumifix Brilliant Blue R
1.0% owf (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
[0031]
(4) Staining conditions
▲ 1 ▼ Dyeing of polyester fiber
Bath ratio 1:40
Temperature x time 130 ° C x 30 minutes
pH5 buffer (CH_ThreeCOOH, CH_ThreeCOONa)
Soaping
Bath ratio 1:20
Soaping agent Sunmall RC700 2g / L
(Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.)
NaOH 2g / L
Hydrosulfite sodium 2g / L
(Made by Katayama Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Temperature x time 95 ° C x 30 minutes
▲ 2 ▼ Dyeing of cellulose fiber

Soaping
Bath ratio 1:20
Soaping agent Grand Up P 1g / L
(Manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries)
Temperature x time 80 ° C x 10 minutes
(3) Dyeing of polyester fiber and cellulose fiber composite fabric
The composite fabric was dyed with polyester fibers and then with cellulose fibers.
(5) Water absorption processing conditions
Bath ratio 1:20
Water absorbing agent SR-1000 5% owf
(Takamatsu Yushi Co., Ltd.)
Temperature x time 95 ° C x 30 minutes
[0032]
(6) Filament processing conditions
The yarn was false twisted under the following two conditions to obtain a crimped yarn.
(1) False twisting conditions (1):
Using Mitsubishi LS-2, the spindle rotation speed is 250,000 rpm, the twist number is Z-3200T / M, the first heater temperature is 190 ° C, the second heater temperature is 180 ° C and the relaxation rate is 12%. The processed yarn is obtained.
(2) False twisting conditions (2):
Using Mitsubishi LS-2, spindle rotation speed 250,000 rpm, twist number Z-3200T / M First heater temperature 190 ° C, second heater temperature 180 ° C, relax rate 6%. The processed yarn is obtained.
[0033]
【Example】
Example 1
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide is used for the surface layer. Yarn processed under false twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation rate of 20%, intermediate yarn of polyester W-shaped cross section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f, back Polyester W-shaped irregular cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the layer is processed under false twisting condition (2), using a yarn having a crimp elongation of 7%, and a basis weight of 133 g / m²The double-sided tack fabric was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A knitting diagram of the double-sided tack is shown in FIG. A knitted fabric knitted by a double circular knitting machine is a combined body of knitted fabric portions each knitted by a cylinder needle and a dial needle, and in that sense, is a two-layer knitted fabric. However, since the knitted fabric is a three-dimensional structure, the surface layer is knitted by 2.5 knitting in FIG. 1, the back layer is knitted by 3.6 knitting, and the surface layer and the back are laid by the intermediate layer shown by 1.4. The layers are connected to obtain a three-layer knitted fabric. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer.
As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has very little discoloration when wet.
[0034]
Example 2
On the surface layer, a polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 comprising a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide. Yarn processed under false twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation rate of 20%, intermediate yarn of polyester W-shaped cross section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f, back Polyester W-shaped irregular cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the layer was processed under false twisting condition (2), and a yarn having a crimp elongation of 7% was used. m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted with a 28 GG double circular knitting machine, and further water-absorbing processed after dyeing. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric had very little discoloration when wet, and did not feel wet.
[0035]
Example 3
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 comprising a core part containing 3% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. Yarn processed under twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation of 20%, an intermediate layer of 75% / 45f of cupra original yarn containing no titanium oxide, and a back layer of titanium oxide of 75d / 30f with a thickness of 0.1%. Polyester W-shaped modified cross-section yarn containing 05% by weight is processed under false twisting condition (2), using a yarn with a crimp elongation of 7%, and a basis weight of 140 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has little discoloration when wet.
[0036]
Example 4
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 10% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. Using a yarn processed under twisting conditions (1) and having a crimp elongation of 18%, a polyester W-shaped profile cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f is used for the intermediate layer. A yarn processed under condition (2) and having a crimp elongation of 7%, and a polyester yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f in the back layer were processed under false twisting condition (2). Using a yarn with a crimp elongation of 7%, the basis weight is 146 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28 GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has very little discoloration when wet.
[0037]
Example 5
Polyester yarn containing 3% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f on the surface layer was processed under false twisting condition (1) to give a crimp elongation of 19%, and 0% of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the intermediate layer 1. Polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn containing 1% by weight, and polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the back layer are processed under false twisting conditions (2). Using a yarn with a crimp elongation of 7%, a basis weight of 130 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the full-fold yarn with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has very little discoloration when wet.
[0038]
Example 6
Polyester yarn containing 1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f on the surface layer was processed under false twisting conditions (1), using a yarn with a crimp elongation of 19%, and titanium oxide at 75d / 96f in the intermediate layer. A polyester fine denier base yarn containing 0.1% by weight and a polyester yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f in the back layer are processed under false twisting conditions (2). Using a 7% thread, the basis weight is 135 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the full-fold yarn with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has little discoloration when wet.
[0039]
Example 7
Polyester yarn containing 5% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f on the surface layer was processed under false twisting conditions (1), and a yarn having a crimp elongation of 20% was used. The intermediate layer was made of titanium oxide at 75d / 96f. Polyester fine denier yarn containing 0.1% polyester and polyester fine denier yarn containing 0.1% titanium oxide at 75d / 96f in the back layer are processed under false twisting condition (2), and the crimp elongation is Using a 7% thread, the basis weight is 138 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the full-fold yarn with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has little discoloration when wet.
[0040]
Example 8
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. Using a yarn processed under twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation of 20%, a polyester W-shaped profile cross-sectional yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the intermediate layer is false twisting condition Using a yarn processed in (2) and having a crimp elongation of 7%, a polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f under the false twisting condition (2) Using a thread that has been processed and has a crimp elongation of 7%, a basis weight of 147 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has very little discoloration when wet.
[0041]
Example 9
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. The yarn processed under the twisting condition (1), with a crimp elongation of 20%, and the polyester yarn containing 3% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f, processed under the false twisting condition (1), and crimped. A yarn having a ratio of 19% was used at a mixture ratio of 1: 1, an intermediate layer of polyester fine denier yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 96f, and a titanium oxide of 0.1% at 75d / 36f in the back layer. A polyester yarn containing 1% by weight is processed under false twisting condition (2), and a yarn having a crimp elongation of 7% is used, with a basis weight of 133 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of the knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the core-sheath type composite fiber yarn and the full dull yarn with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has very little discoloration when wet.
[0042]
Example 10
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 comprising a core part containing 15% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. Using a yarn processed under twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation of 20%, the intermediate layer contains 75d / 45f of cupra raw yarn, and the back layer contains 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f. Polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn to be processed under false twisting conditions (2) and using a yarn with a crimp elongation of 7%, a basis weight of 143 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has little discoloration when wet.
[0043]
Example 11
Polyester core-sheath type composite having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 on the dial side of a 28 GG double circular knitting machine comprising a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide False twisting conditions of fiber yarn (75d / 36f) processed under false twisting conditions (1) to a crimp elongation of 20% and polyester yarn containing 75% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f Tendon was knitted by plating so that the core-sheath type composite fiber yarns were processed on the basis of (1) and having a crimp elongation rate of 19%. Further, a lantern was knitted using 75d / 40f cupra yarn on the cylinder side from another yarn feeder. Further, a polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f from another yarn feeder is processed under the above processing condition (2), and a cylinder with a crimp elongation rate of 7% is used. Side and dial side are knitted and integrated, with a basis weight of 200 g / m²Was knitted and dyed. A photograph of the surface of the knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the core-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a large crimp accounted for 72% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has little discoloration when wet.
[0044]
Example 12
On the surface layer, a polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 comprising a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide. Two yarns are aligned and processed under false twisting conditions (1), and a yarn A having a crimp elongation of 20% and a polyester W-shaped irregular cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the back layer. Using a yarn B that is aligned and processed under false twisting conditions (2) and has a crimp elongation of 7%, a basis weight of 130 g / m²Was knitted and dyed with a 28GG single circular knitting machine. A knitting diagram of Urakanoko is shown in FIG. When the surface morphology of this knitted fabric was observed by image analysis, a core-sheath structure yarn with large crimps occupied 85% of the surface layer, and a W-shaped cross-sectional yarn became 50% of the back layer, resulting in a two-layer knitted fabric. . As shown in Table 1, this knitted fabric has very little discoloration when wet.
[0045]
Comparative Example 1
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 2% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. A polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn that is processed under twisting conditions (1) and has a crimp elongation of 20%, and an intermediate layer containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f, A polyester W-shaped cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f in the back layer is processed under false twisting condition (2), using a yarn having a crimp elongation of 7%, and a basis weight of 133 g / M²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. This knitted fabric was so large that discoloration when wet would cause practical problems.
[0046]
Comparative Example 2
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 16% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. Using a yarn processed under twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation of 20%, polyester fine denier containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 96f is used as the intermediate layer under false twisting conditions ( 2), the yarn with a crimp elongation rate of 7% was processed, and the polyester containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f in the back layer was processed under false twisting conditions (2) to crimp the yarn. Using a thread with a rate of 7%, the basis weight is 133 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, the knitted fabric had little discoloration when wet, but the processability was extremely poor, and it was impractical.
[0047]
Comparative Example 3
Polyester yarn containing 7% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 36f on the surface layer was processed under false twisting conditions (1) to use a yarn with a crimp elongation of 20%, and the intermediate layer was made of titanium oxide at 75d / 96f. A polyester fine denier yarn containing 0.1% by weight and a polyester fine denier yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 96f in the back layer are processed under false twisting conditions (2). 140g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of this knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the full-fold yarn with large crimps accounted for 91% of the surface layer. As shown in Table 1, the knitted fabric had little discoloration when wet, but the processability was extremely poor and was not practical.
[0048]
Comparative Example 4
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. A yarn processed under twisting conditions (1) and having a crimp elongation of 20% and a polyester yarn (75d / 36f) containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide were processed under false twisting conditions (1). A yarn having a crimp elongation of 20% was used at a mixture ratio of 1: 1, the intermediate layer was 75d / 30f, and the polyester W-shaped modified cross section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide and the back layer was 75d / Polyester W-shaped modified cross-section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 30f was processed under false twisting condition (2), using a yarn with a crimp elongation of 7%, and a basis weight of 133 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of the knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, core-sheath type composite fiber yarns with large crimps accounted for 39% of the surface layer and polyester yarns of 75d / 36f accounted for 40%. Although this knitted fabric has good process passability, as shown in Table 1, it became discolored when wet.
[0049]
Example 13
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 consisting of a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer is temporarily provided. A yarn processed under twisting condition (1) and having a crimp elongation of 20% and a polyester yarn (75d / 36f) containing 3% by weight of titanium oxide were processed under false twisting condition (1) and crimped. A yarn having an elongation rate of 20% is used at a mixing ratio of 1: 1, the intermediate layer is a W-shaped cross section yarn of polyester containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f, and the back layer is titanium oxide at 75d / 36f. Polyester yarn containing 0.1% by weight is processed under false twisting condition (2), using a yarn having a crimp elongation of 7%, with a basis weight of 135 g / m²The same three-layer knitted fabric as in Example 1 was knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of the knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the core-sheath type composite fiber yarn with large crimps accounted for 39% of the surface layer and the full-dal yarn accounted for 40%. Although this knitted fabric has good process passability, as shown in Table 1, discoloration when wet is very small.
[0050]
Comparative Example 5
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn (75d / 36f) having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 comprising a core part containing 4% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide on the surface layer. Processed under false twisting conditions (1), processed with a yarn with a crimp elongation of 20%, and polyester threads containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 24f in the back layer under false twisting conditions (1). Using a yarn having a crimp elongation of 19%, a basis weight of 125 g / m²Were knitted and dyed with a 28GG double circular knitting machine. A photograph of the surface of the knitted fabric was taken and the surface morphology was observed by image analysis. As a result, the core-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a large crimp accounted for 76% of the surface layer. Although this knitted fabric has good process passability, as shown in Table 1, it became discolored when wet.
[0051]
[Table 1]

[0052]
Example 14
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 having a core part containing 8% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide at a warp of 50d / 36f and 50d / Polyester W-shaped cross section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 30f, polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn at 75d / 36f and weft at 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f W-shaped cross-section yarn, using a conventional double loom, 260 warp density, 155 weft density, 150 g / m²A flat double woven fabric was woven, dyed and water-absorbed. When the surface morphology of this woven fabric is observed by image analysis, the core-sheath type composite fiber has a structure that can be seen on the surface layer, and the discoloration when wet is very small.
[0053]
Example 15
Polyester yarn containing 3% by weight of titanium oxide at 50d / 36f at warp, polyester W-shaped cross section yarn having 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 50d / 30f, polyester core-sheath type as described above at 75d / 36f for weft A composite fiber yarn and a polyester W-shaped profile cross section yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 30f, and using a conventional double loom, warp density of 260, weft density of 155, basis weight of 150 g / m²A flat double woven fabric was woven, dyed and water-absorbed. When the surface morphology of this woven fabric was observed by image analysis, a fullal yarn was seen on the surface layer, and discoloration when wet was very small.
[0054]
Comparative Example 6
A polyester core-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a core-sheath weight ratio of 1/1 having a core part containing 2% by weight of titanium oxide and a sheath part containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide at a warp of 50d / 36f and 50d / A polyester yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 24f, a weft yarn at 75d / 36f and a polyester yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide at 75d / 24f, and a polyester yarn containing 0.1% by weight of titanium oxide. Using a double weaving machine of 260, warp density 260, weft density 155, basis weight 150g / m²A flat double woven fabric was woven, dyed and water-absorbed. When the surface morphology of this woven fabric was observed by image analysis, the core-sheath type composite fiber became a structure that was visible on the surface layer, and although it had good processability, it became discolored when wet.
[0055]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the discoloration of the fabric by rain or sweat can be prevented, As a result, the fabric without the discomfort based on the discoloration by water can be provided. The multilayer fabric of the present invention had almost no troubles such as yarn breakage during the production of the raw material yarn and the fabric, and the process stability was good.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a knitting diagram of a double-sided tack fabric showing an example of a multilayer fabric.
FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating how to fabricate a stag bean fabric showing another example of a multilayer fabric.
[Explanation of symbols]
1, 4 ... Knitting diagram for intermediate layer knitting
2,5 ... Surface knitting diagram
3, 6 ... Knitting diagram for back layer knitting

Claims

A fabric having a multilayer structure of two or more layers, the surface layer of which is a synthetic fiber yarn having a white pigment content of 1% by weight to 6% by weight and / or a white pigment content of 3% by weight to 15% by weight. % Of the core portion and a white-sheath type composite fiber yarn having a sheath portion with a white pigment content of 2% by weight or less. At least one of the layers other than the surface layer has a cross-sectional shape of L, C , W, Z, M, gear-shaped irregular cross-section yarn having a degree of irregularity of 1.2 or more, porous fiber yarn having a porosity of 5% to 40%, fine denier yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5d or less, A multilayer fabric comprising the selected water-absorbing / diffusible synthetic fiber yarn.

It has a three-layer structure, the intermediate layer is composed of a yarn processed with a water absorbing / diffusing synthetic fiber yarn, and the back layer is made of a filament processed yarn having a crimp elongation of 10% or less, consisting of a water absorbing / diffusing synthetic fiber yarn. The multilayer fabric according to claim 1.

The multi-layered fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multi-layered fabric has a two-layer structure, and the back layer is composed of filament processed yarns made of water-absorbing / diffusible synthetic fiber yarns and having a crimp elongation of 10% or less.

The multilayer fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the water-absorbing / diffusing synthetic fiber yarn has a water absorption value of 2 cm or more and a water diffusivity value of 10 cm or more.