JP4123398B2 - Hair softening treatment agent and cold wave treatment agent containing the same - Google Patents
Hair softening treatment agent and cold wave treatment agent containing the same Download PDFInfo
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- JP4123398B2 JP4123398B2 JP07966699A JP7966699A JP4123398B2 JP 4123398 B2 JP4123398 B2 JP 4123398B2 JP 07966699 A JP07966699 A JP 07966699A JP 7966699 A JP7966699 A JP 7966699A JP 4123398 B2 JP4123398 B2 JP 4123398B2
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- hair
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- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims description 55
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 54
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 21
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000005526 alkyl sulfate group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000005843 halogen group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ATRRKUHOCOJYRX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium bicarbonate Chemical compound [NH4+].OC([O-])=O ATRRKUHOCOJYRX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000013162 Cocos nucifera Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 244000060011 Cocos nucifera Species 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001099 ammonium carbonate Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019482 Palm oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000018417 cysteine Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001117 oleyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])/C([H])=C([H])\C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940058020 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910000013 Ammonium bicarbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-REOHCLBHSA-N L-Cysteine Chemical compound SC[C@H](N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PWKSKIMOESPYIA-BYPYZUCNSA-N L-N-acetyl-Cysteine Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@@H](CS)C(O)=O PWKSKIMOESPYIA-BYPYZUCNSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfurous acid Chemical compound OS(O)=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960004308 acetylcysteine Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminomethyl propanol Chemical compound CC(C)(N)CO CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012538 ammonium bicarbonate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000012501 ammonium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteine Natural products SCC(N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- UXFQFBNBSPQBJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(N)(C)CO UXFQFBNBSPQBJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 14
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 4
- -1 polyoxyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 4
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium chloride Substances [NH4+].[Cl-] NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- LEVWYRKDKASIDU-IMJSIDKUSA-N L-cystine Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@@H]([NH3+])CSSC[C@H]([NH3+])C([O-])=O LEVWYRKDKASIDU-IMJSIDKUSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229960003067 cystine Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 3
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000002411 adverse Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 125000001309 chloro group Chemical group Cl* 0.000 description 2
- 239000003240 coconut oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019864 coconut oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 2
- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VKOBVWXKNCXXDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O VKOBVWXKNCXXDE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 2
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 2
- XUXNAKZDHHEHPC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium bromate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]Br(=O)=O XUXNAKZDHHEHPC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N (9Z,12Z)-9,10,12,13-tetratritiooctadeca-9,12-dienoic acid Chemical compound C(CCCCCCC\C(=C(/C\C(=C(/CCCCC)\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])\[3H])(=O)O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-NTGFUMLPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOJUJUVQIVIZAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-amino-4,6-dichloropyrimidine-5-carbaldehyde Chemical group NC1=NC(Cl)=C(C=O)C(Cl)=N1 GOJUJUVQIVIZAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(C)CO QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium hydroxide Chemical compound [NH4+].[OH-] VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005632 Capric acid (CAS 334-48-5) Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005635 Caprylic acid (CAS 124-07-2) Substances 0.000 description 1
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 206010016322 Feeling abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium laurylsulphate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O DBMJMQXJHONAFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019270 ammonium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000011114 ammonium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003863 ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- SECPZKHBENQXJG-UHFFFAOYSA-N cis-palmitoleic acid Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O SECPZKHBENQXJG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001427 coherent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001945 cysteines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007429 general method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 231100000640 hair analysis Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002446 octanoic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- NNNVXFKZMRGJPM-KHPPLWFESA-N sapienic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCC(O)=O NNNVXFKZMRGJPM-KHPPLWFESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000009291 secondary effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
【０００１】
【発明が属する技術分野】
本発明は、毛髪を薬液を用いて、ウェーブ形成を行なうパーマネント処理に用いる処理剤に係わり、更に詳しくはパーマネント処理や処理に用いる薬液に添加する毛髪柔軟化処理剤に係る。
【０００２】
【従来技術】
従来、毛髪を処理し一定の期間、ウェーブを形成し全体としてまとまりのある形にセットするには、毛髪全体をパーマネント処理する方法が一般的に行なわれている。具体的なパーマネント処理の技術としては、例えば電熱を用いてウェーブを形成する方法（マシンウェーブ法）、ある特定の薬液を用いてウェーブを形成する方法（コールドウェーブ法）等をあげることができるが、特に近年は毛髪に対するダメージ等を考慮して、薬液を用いたコールドウェーブ法の方が遥かに多くなって来ている。
【０００３】
コールドウェーブ法によるパーマネント処理に用いる薬液（以下パーマ剤と略記する）は、毛髪に対するダメージを極力小さくするとともに、頭皮に対する刺激や影響のないものでなくてはならず、同時に施術者の手指に対する影響のないものでなければならない。
【０００４】
パーマネント処理の目的は上述の通り、毛髪にウェーブを形成し、同時にそれが永続性のあるものとすることが必要であるから、処理にあたってはまず、毛髪をロッド等に巻き付けて所望のウェーブ形状になるようにし、然る後その形でセットすることが必要である。即ち、その変形を永続性のあるウェーブとして残すものである。
【０００５】
上述のパーマネントウェーブ処理を行なうための一般的手法としては以下のような方法を基本とするものである。すなわち、毛髪のタンパクのシスチン（ＳＳ）結合を還元剤で切断した状態で、人工的にウェーブを形成し、然るのち酸化剤を用いて上述の結合を修復し、人工的なウェーブを固定する方法である。ここにおいて用いられる薬液としては、主としてシスチン（ＳＳ）結合を切断する性能を持つ還元剤であるチオグリコール酸と、これを修復する性能を持つ酸化剤とで構成されるが、前者を含有したパーマ１剤と、後者を含有したパーマ２剤の２浴式で行なわれるのが主流である。
【０００６】
上述のパーマ１剤としてはチオグリコール酸のアンモニア液でｐＨを９程度までに抑えたものが用いられ、パーマ２剤としては臭素酸ナトリウム、過酸化水素水等の酸化剤の水溶液が主として使用されている。また、パーマ１剤の主成分としてシスティン類が使用されることもある。実際の使用にあたっては、まず例えばロッド等に毛髪を巻き付けた状態でパーマ１剤を塗布し、そのまま１０〜３０分間程度放置した後、パーマ２剤を塗布しその状態でウェーブを固定する。
【０００７】
パーマネントウェーブをかけると毛髪の状態が硬くなり、毛髪の量が多く、また毛髪の太さが通常よりも太いような場合においてはその傾向は顕著であり、その後の日常生活における毛髪の手入れにおいて扱い難い状態となることがある。このような状態を避けるために美容師が個人の毛髪の状態を判断してパーマ処理剤を適当に選別して施術した後、柔軟剤で処理することが一般的である。
【０００８】
上述の方法において使用される柔軟剤としてはカチオン系の界面活性剤が使用される場合が多いが、その主たる目的は毛髪の帯電防止、艶出し、滑り性の向上等にあり、柔軟性の付与については従の効果しかない。更に、この方法は個人差が多い。このような状況から、任意の状態で使用することが可能な毛髪柔軟化処理剤、さらには毛髪柔軟化処理剤を含有したパーマ１剤の開発が待たれていた。
【０００９】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明者等は、上述の現行のコールドウェーブ処理方法の持つ問題点に鑑み、コールドウェーブ処理後の毛髪を柔軟にする方法について鋭意研究を行なった結果本発明を完成するに至ったものであり、その目的とする所は、任意の状態で使用が可能な毛髪柔軟化処理剤を提供することにあり、更に本発明の他の目的は前記毛髪柔軟化処理剤を含有したコールドウェーブ処理剤を提供することにある。
【００１０】
【課題を解決するための手段】
上述の目的は、一般式（１）
【００１１】
【化３】
（式中、Ｒ1は炭素数１８のオレイル基を示し、Ｘはハロゲン原子または炭素数１〜２のアルキル硫酸基を示し、ｍ＋ｎは２〜５である）で現わされる第４級アンモニウム塩を１種またはそれ以上、及び、一般式（２）
【００１３】
【化４】
（式中、Ｒ2およびＲ3はヤシ油から抽出されたヤシアルキル基を示し、Ｙはハロゲン原子または炭素数１〜２のアルキル硫酸基を示す）で現わされる第４級アンモニウム塩を１種または２種以上を含有する毛髪処理剤にて達成される。上述の毛髪柔軟処理剤は、一般式（１）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩を０．１〜１５重量％、一般式（２）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩を０．０１〜５重量％を含有してなり、かつ、一般式（１）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩と、一般式（２）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩の比率が重量比において３：１から５：１の範囲にある。更に、本発明の他の目的は還元剤および／またはアルカリ剤を主成分とする液中に上述の毛髪処理を含有せしめたコールドウェーブ処理剤によって、達成される。
【００１５】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の肝要は、従来のコールドウェーブ処理剤に添加する毛髪柔軟化処理剤として、カチオン系界面活性剤である第４級アンモニウム塩を用いることにあり、特に、異なったタイプの第４級アンモニウム塩を混合して用いることにより、毛髪に対する優れた柔軟化効果と、処理液としての安定性を求めることにある。ここで用いる第４級アンモニウム塩は、まず第１のタイプ即ち、前述の一般式（１）で示されるものは、ポリオキシエチレン分子よりなる部分を２つ含有することを特徴とした第４級アンモニウムの塩であり、また、第２のタイプ即ち、前述の一般式（２）で示されるタイプのものは、ポリオキシアルキレンを含まないタイプの第４級アンモニウムの塩である。各々のタイプから１種またはそれ以上のものを選別し、混合することによって本発明の毛髪処理剤を得ることができる。
【００１６】
前述の一般式、（１）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩は、Ｒ1が炭素数１８のオレイル基を示す。また、Ｘとしてはハロゲン原子あるいは炭素数１〜２のアルキル硫酸基を示すが、特に塩素原子が好ましく用いられる。更に、ポリオキシエチレン分子に相当する部分を２つ含有し、その繰り返し単位を示す数値はｍ＋ｎ＝２〜５の範囲にある。一般式（１）の第４級アンモニウム塩の具体例としては、例えば塩化ジ（ポリオキシエチレン）オレイルメチルアンモニウムをあげることができる。
【００１７】
また、前述の一般式（２）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩は、Ｒ2およびＲ3がヤシ油から抽出されたヤシアルキル基を示すものである。また、Ｙとしてはハロゲン原子あるいは炭素数１〜２のアルキル硫酸基を示すが、特に塩素原子が好ましく用いられる。一般式（２）の第４級アンモニウム塩の具体例としては、例えば、塩化ジヤシアルキルジメチルアンモニウムを挙げることができる。ここでいう塩化ジヤシアルキルジメチルアンモニウムとは一般式（２）の中のＲ2およびＲ3部分がヤシ油から抽出されたヤシアルキル基であるものを指す。一般的なヤシ油の成分としては主成分としてのラウリン酸の他に、カプリル酸、カプリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、アラキン酸、ヘキサデセン酸、オレイン酸、リノール酸等をあげることができ、ヤシアルキル基としての炭素数は１２、１４程度である。
【００１８】
一般式（１）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩の処理剤全体に対する配合量は、０．１〜１５重量％、好ましくは０．５〜５重量％であり、一般式（２）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩の処理剤全体に対する配合量は、０．０１〜５重量％、好ましくは０．１〜２重量％である。配合量がこれ以下であるとその効果が十分でなく、またこれ以上であると量的に過剰でありコールドウェーブ処理剤としての性能に悪い影響を与えてしまう。さらに一般式（１）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩と、一般式（２）で示される第４級アンモニウム塩の比率が重量比において３：１から５：１の範囲にあることが本発明目的達成のために必要であり、より好ましい範囲は３：１から４：１である。この範囲内において可溶化エマルションとしての安定性にすぐれ、同時にコールドウェーブ処理剤に添加されて使用された場合すぐれた毛髪柔軟化効果を出すことができる。
【００１９】
更に、本発明による毛髪処理剤に対しては、その本来の目的を阻害しない範囲で必要に応じて他の添加物を添加することができる。具体的には、アミノ酸、ポリペプタイド、両性界面活性剤等を挙げることができる。
上述の、毛髪柔軟化処理剤はコールドウェーブ処理剤中に含有せしめることができる。本発明にいうコールドウェーブ処理剤とは、毛髪のタンパクのシスチン（ＳＳ）結合を切断するための還元剤を主成分とする液（パーマ１剤）、およびそれを再結合させるための酸化剤を主成分とする液（パーマ２剤）より構成されるいわゆる２液性のものである。しかして、本発明の毛髪柔軟化処理剤は、好ましくは前述の還元剤を主成分とするパーマ１剤中に含有されるものであるが、酸化剤を主体とするパーマ２剤に含有されてもよい。また、１液性のパーマ剤の中に含有されてもよい。
【００２０】
前述のパーマ１剤の主成分である還元剤については特に限定を受けるものではないが、特に好ましくは、チオグリコール酸およびその塩、システィンおよびその塩、アセチルシスティン、および亜硫酸塩を挙げることができる。更にまた、前述のパーマ１剤の主成分であるアルカリ剤についても特に限定を受けるものではないが、特に好ましくは、アンモニア、モノエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミン、炭酸アンモニウム、重炭酸アンモニウム、２−アミノ−２−メチル−１．３−プロパンジオール、２−アミノ−２−メチル−１−プロパノールを挙げることができる。
【００２１】
以下実施例に従い、本発明による毛髪柔軟化処理剤およびそれを含有したコールドウェーブ処理剤についての具体的な説明を行なうが、特にこれにより限定を行なうものではない。
なお、以下に述べる実施例において毛髪の硬さ、柔軟性の指標として用いたＢ値、ＢＳ値の測定は、「毛髪こし感テスター」（カトーテック株式会社製、ＫＥＳ−ＦＢ２−Ｓ型）を用いて測定したものである。すなわち、化学処理歴のない女子成人毛髪で長さ約４０ｃｍの黒色の直毛を検体とし、これを４０〜５０℃のラウリル硫酸ナトリウム溶液中に１０分浸漬して洗浄し、流水で洗浄した後風乾する。この毛髪検体２００本を重ならないように３．５ｃｍ幅に引き揃え、毛髪の長さが３ｃｍになるようにしてその両端を１ｃｍ幅のテープで固定したものを試験用のサンプルとする。このようにして作成した試験用サンプルを上述の「毛髪こし感テスター」にかけて、その折り曲げの際の応力を測定し、この値をＢ値（ｇｆ．ｃｍ2／ｃｍ）とする。このＢ値は毛髪の一方を固定し、等速で曲げた時の曲げ硬さを示す数値であって、数値が大きいほど毛髪が硬いことを示すものである。未処理の毛髪のＢ値と、パーマネントコールドウェーブ処理後の毛髪のＢ値とを測定し、後者の数値から前者の数値を減じた数値をＢＳ値とする。
ＢＳ値（ｇｆ．ｃｍ2／ｃｍ）＝（処理後のＢ値）−（未処理のＢ値）
【００２２】
【実施例】
〔コールドウェーブ用柔軟化処理剤成分の評価テスト〕
パーマ１剤としてパーマネントウェーブ用剤品質規格に準拠した液、すなわち７％チオグリコール酸のアンモニア性アルカリ水溶液に柔軟化処理剤成分としての各種界面活性剤を添加した。調整したパーマ１剤の安定性を経時的にチェックし、室温で１年間放置してもエマルションが安定であり、分離、析出、変色等現象の起こらないものを○とし、なんらかの変化が見られたものを×と評価した。検体となる毛髪を、上述のようにして作成したパーマ１剤にて３０℃で１０分間処理後水洗した。然る後、臭素酸ナトリウム６％水溶液からなるパーマ２剤を用いて３０℃で１０分間処理後水洗し乾燥した。この操作を５回繰り返して行なったものを処理後のサンプルとし、各々Ｂ値の測定を行なった。予め測定してあった未処理状態のＢ値との差を求め、ＢＳ値を求めた。
実際に処理を行なった毛髪サンプルにつき、１０人のパネラーによる官能テストを行ない未添加のものに対する比較において、軟化感の有無を確認した。１０人のパネラー中、
８人以上が軟化感を感じた ：○
４人以上７人以下が軟化感を感じた ：△
軟化感を感じたのが３人以下であった ：×
とした。
【００２３】
実施例１〜４、比較例１〜１４
表１および表２に示す組成にて、毛髪柔軟化処理剤を調整し、前述の評価テストの内容に従って調整したパーマ１剤に添加し、エマルションの安定性、処理後の毛髪のＢＳ値、およびパネラーによる軟化感の評価テストを実施した。結果を表１および表２に示す。
結果から明らかなように、本発明の毛髪柔軟化処理剤はＢＳ値も低くまた、安定性および軟化感においても○の評価が得られた。
【００２４】
【表１】
【表２】
【発明の効果】
実施例および比較例の結果から明らかな通り、本発明による毛髪柔軟化処理剤はパーマネントコールドウェーブ処理剤に添加することにより、毛髪に対して極めて良好な柔軟化効果を与えると同時に、コールドウェーブ処理剤の性能に対して何ら悪影響を与えることなく、さらにその安定性も極めて良好である。本発明により、従来、毛髪の多い人、毛髪が太くて手入れが大変な人、毛髪が硬い人等が、コールドウェーブ処理後に感じる硬さ、ゴワゴワ感を解消し、極めて快適な感触を与えることができるようになった。[0001]
[Technical field to which the invention belongs]
The present invention relates to a treatment agent used for permanent treatment in which hair is formed using a chemical solution, and more particularly to a hair softening treatment agent added to a permanent treatment or a chemical solution used for the treatment.
[0002]
[Prior art]
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in order to treat hair and form a wave for a certain period of time and set it as a coherent shape as a whole, a method of permanently treating the entire hair is generally performed. Specific permanent processing techniques include, for example, a method of forming a wave using electric heat (machine wave method), a method of forming a wave using a specific chemical (cold wave method), and the like. In recent years, in particular, the cold wave method using a chemical solution has become much more in consideration of damage to hair and the like.
[0003]
The chemical solution used for permanent treatment by the cold wave method (hereinafter abbreviated as “perm agent”) must minimize damage to the hair as well as have no irritation or influence on the scalp and at the same time affect the fingers of the practitioner. It must be without.
[0004]
The purpose of permanent treatment is to form a wave on the hair as described above, and at the same time, it is necessary to make it permanent. It is necessary to set and then set in that form. That is, the deformation is left as a permanent wave.
[0005]
A general method for performing the above-described permanent wave processing is based on the following method. That is, a wave is artificially formed in a state where the cystine (SS) bond of the hair protein is cut with a reducing agent, and then the above-mentioned bond is repaired using an oxidizing agent, and the artificial wave is fixed. Is the method. The chemical solution used here is composed mainly of thioglycolic acid, which is a reducing agent capable of cleaving a cystine (SS) bond, and an oxidizing agent capable of repairing the same. The mainstream is a two-bath system with one agent and two permanents containing the latter.
[0006]
As the above-mentioned permanent agent 1, an ammonia solution of thioglycolic acid whose pH is suppressed to about 9 is used, and as the permanent agent 2, an aqueous solution of an oxidizing agent such as sodium bromate or hydrogen peroxide is mainly used. ing. In addition, cysteines may be used as the main component of the permanent agent. In actual use, first, for example, a permanent agent is applied in a state where hair is wound around a rod or the like, and left as it is for about 10 to 30 minutes. Then, a permanent agent is applied and the wave is fixed in that state.
[0007]
When permanent waves are applied, the condition of the hair becomes stiff, the amount of hair is large, and the thickness of the hair is thicker than usual. It can be difficult. In order to avoid such a state, it is common that a beautician judges the state of an individual's hair, selects a permanent treatment agent appropriately, and performs treatment with a softening agent.
[0008]
As the softener used in the above-mentioned method, a cationic surfactant is often used, but its main purpose is to prevent hair from being charged, to polish, to improve slipperiness, etc., and to impart flexibility. There is only a secondary effect. Furthermore, this method has many individual differences. Under such circumstances, development of a hair softening agent that can be used in an arbitrary state and a permanent agent containing the hair softening agent has been awaited.
[0009]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
In view of the problems of the above-described current cold wave treatment methods, the present inventors have conducted extensive research on a method for softening hair after cold wave treatment, and as a result have completed the present invention. The purpose of the present invention is to provide a hair softening treatment that can be used in any state, and another object of the present invention is to provide a cold wave treatment containing the hair softening treatment. It is to provide.
[0010]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The above object is achieved by the general formula (1)
[0011]
[Chemical 3]
(Wherein R 1 represents an oleyl group having 18 carbon atoms, X represents a halogen atom or an alkyl sulfate group having 1 to 2 carbon atoms, and m + n is 2 to 5). One or more salts and a general formula (2)
[0013]
[Formula 4]
(Wherein, R 2 and R 3 represents a coconut alkyl group extracted from palm oil, Y is an alkyl sulfate group of a halogen atom or a C 1-2) quaternary ammonium salt manifested by This is achieved with a hair treatment agent containing one or more kinds. The above-mentioned hair softening agent is 0.1 to 15% by weight of the quaternary ammonium salt represented by the general formula (1) and 0.01 to 5% by weight of the quaternary ammonium salt represented by the general formula (2). The ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt represented by the general formula (1) and the quaternary ammonium salt represented by the general formula (2) is 3: 1 to 5: 1 in a weight ratio. It is in the range . Further, other object of the present invention by cold wave treatment agent for the additional inclusion of hair processing described above in a liquid mainly containing a reducing agent and / or an alkali agent, is achieved.
[0015]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The essential point of the present invention is to use a quaternary ammonium salt, which is a cationic surfactant, as a hair softening treatment agent to be added to a conventional cold wave treatment agent. By mixing and using a salt, it exists in seeking the outstanding softening effect with respect to hair, and the stability as a processing liquid. The quaternary ammonium salt used here is a quaternary ammonium salt characterized in that the first type, that is, the compound represented by the general formula (1) described above contains two parts made of polyoxyethylene molecules. The ammonium salt and the second type, ie, the type represented by the general formula (2) is a quaternary ammonium salt which does not contain polyoxyalkylene. The hair treatment agent of the present invention can be obtained by selecting and mixing one or more types from each type.
[0016]
The above general formula, the quaternary ammonium salt represented by (1), R 1 is shows the oleyl group having 18 carbon atoms. X represents a halogen atom or an alkyl sulfate group having 1 to 2 carbon atoms, and a chlorine atom is particularly preferably used. Furthermore, it contains two portions corresponding to polyoxyethylene molecules, and the numerical value indicating the repeating unit is in the range of m + n = 2-5. Specific examples of the quaternary ammonium salt of the general formula (1) include, for example, di (polyoxyethylene) oleylmethylammonium chloride.
[0017]
The quaternary ammonium salt represented by the above general formula (2) shows a coconut alkyl group and R 2 and R 3 are extracted from palm oil. Y represents a halogen atom or an alkyl sulfate group having 1 to 2 carbon atoms, and a chlorine atom is particularly preferably used. Specific examples of the quaternary ammonium salt of the general formula (2) include dicoco alkyldimethyl ammonium chloride. Dicoco alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride here refers to that in which R 2 and R 3 in the general formula (2) are coco alkyl groups extracted from coconut oil. In addition to lauric acid as a main component, common coconut oil components include caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, hexadecenoic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, etc. The number of carbon atoms as the coconut alkyl group is about 12 or 14.
[0018]
The compounding quantity with respect to the whole processing agent of the quaternary ammonium salt shown by General formula (1) is 0.1 to 15 weight%, Preferably it is 0.5 to 5 weight%, and is shown by General formula (2) The compounding quantity with respect to the whole processing agent of a quaternary ammonium salt is 0.01 to 5 weight%, Preferably it is 0.1 to 2 weight%. If the blending amount is less than this, the effect is not sufficient, and if it is more than this, the amount is excessive and the performance as a cold wave treatment agent is adversely affected. Furthermore, the ratio of the quaternary ammonium salt represented by the general formula (1) and the quaternary ammonium salt represented by the general formula (2) is in the range of 3: 1 to 5: 1 by weight. is required for the purpose achieve, more preferably not range 3: 1 to 4: 1. Within this range, it is excellent in stability as a solubilized emulsion, and at the same time, when used by being added to a cold wave treatment agent, an excellent hair softening effect can be obtained.
[0019]
Furthermore, other additives can be added to the hair treatment agent according to the present invention as necessary within a range not impairing its original purpose. Specific examples include amino acids, polypeptides, amphoteric surfactants, and the like.
The hair softening treatment agent described above can be contained in the cold wave treatment agent. The cold wave treatment agent referred to in the present invention is a liquid mainly composed of a reducing agent for cleaving cystine (SS) bond of hair protein (perm 1 agent), and an oxidizing agent for rebinding it. It is a so-called two-component type composed of a liquid (perm 2 agent) as a main component. Thus, the hair softening treatment agent of the present invention is preferably contained in one permanent agent mainly composed of the aforementioned reducing agent, but is contained in two permanent agents mainly composed of an oxidizing agent. Also good. Moreover, you may contain in 1 liquid type permanent agent.
[0020]
The reducing agent which is the main component of the above-mentioned permanent 1 agent is not particularly limited, but particularly preferable examples include thioglycolic acid and its salt, cysteine and its salt, acetylcysteine, and sulfite. . Furthermore, the alkaline agent which is the main component of the above-mentioned permanent agent is not particularly limited, but particularly preferably ammonia, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, 2-amino. Examples include 2-methyl-1.3-propanediol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol.
[0021]
The hair softening treatment agent according to the present invention and the cold wave treatment agent containing the same will be described specifically according to the following examples, but the present invention is not particularly limited thereto.
In the examples described below, the B value and BS value used as indicators of the hardness and flexibility of the hair were measured by “Hair Strain Tester” (KES-FB2-S type, manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.). It was measured using. That is, after using a female adult hair with no history of chemical treatment and black straight hair of about 40 cm in length as a specimen, immersing it in a sodium lauryl sulfate solution at 40 to 50 ° C. for 10 minutes and washing it with running water Air dry. A sample for testing is prepared by aligning the 200 hair specimens to a width of 3.5 cm so as not to overlap, and fixing both ends with a tape having a width of 1 cm so that the length of the hair is 3 cm. The test sample prepared in this manner is subjected to the above-mentioned “hair strain tester”, the stress at the time of bending is measured, and this value is defined as B value (gf.cm 2 / cm). This B value is a numerical value indicating the bending hardness when one of the hairs is fixed and bent at a constant speed, and the higher the numerical value, the harder the hair. The B value of untreated hair and the B value of hair after permanent cold wave treatment are measured, and the value obtained by subtracting the former value from the latter value is taken as the BS value.
BS value (gf.cm 2 / cm) = (B value after treatment) − (untreated B value)
[0022]
【Example】
[Evaluation test of cold wave softening agent components]
As a permanent agent, various surfactants as a softening agent component were added to a liquid complying with the permanent wave agent quality standard, that is, an aqueous ammoniacal aqueous solution of 7% thioglycolic acid. The stability of the adjusted permanent agent was checked over time, and the emulsion was stable even when left at room temperature for 1 year. Something that did not cause separation, precipitation, discoloration, etc. Things were rated as x. The sample hair was treated with 30% of the permanent 1 prepared as described above for 10 minutes and then washed with water. After that, it was treated with water at 30 ° C. for 10 minutes using two permanent agents consisting of a 6% aqueous solution of sodium bromate, washed with water and dried. This operation was repeated 5 times to obtain samples after treatment, and B values were measured. The difference from the B value in the untreated state, which was measured in advance, was determined, and the BS value was determined.
The hair samples that were actually treated were subjected to a sensory test with 10 panelists, and the presence or absence of a softening feeling was confirmed in comparison with those that had not been added. Among the 10 panelists,
More than 8 people felt a soft feeling: ○
4 to 7 people felt soft: △
Less than 3 people felt a softening feeling: ×
It was.
[0023]
Examples 1-4, Comparative Examples 1-14
In the composition shown in Table 1 and Table 2, a hair softening treatment agent is prepared and added to a permanent 1 agent prepared according to the contents of the evaluation test described above, and the stability of the emulsion, the BS value of the hair after treatment, and An evaluation test of softening feeling was conducted by a panelist. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
As is apparent from the results, the hair softening treatment agent of the present invention has a low BS value, and a good evaluation is given in terms of stability and softness.
[0024]
[Table 1]
[Table 2]
【The invention's effect】
As is apparent from the results of Examples and Comparative Examples, the hair softening treatment agent according to the present invention gives a very good softening effect to the hair by adding it to the permanent cold wave treatment agent, and at the same time cold wave treatment. The stability is also very good without any adverse effect on the performance of the agent. According to the present invention, conventionally, a person with a lot of hair, a person whose hair is thick and difficult to care for, a person with hard hair, etc. can eliminate the hardness and feeling of feeling after cold wave treatment, giving a very comfortable feeling I can do it now.
Claims (5)
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|---|---|---|---|
| JP07966699A JP4123398B2 (en) | 1999-03-24 | 1999-03-24 | Hair softening treatment agent and cold wave treatment agent containing the same |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP07966699A JP4123398B2 (en) | 1999-03-24 | 1999-03-24 | Hair softening treatment agent and cold wave treatment agent containing the same |
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| JP4123398B2 true JP4123398B2 (en) | 2008-07-23 |
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| JP2602032B2 (en) * | 1987-10-22 | 1997-04-23 | 株式会社資生堂 | Agent for permanent wave |
| JP2584260B2 (en) * | 1987-12-04 | 1997-02-26 | 株式会社資生堂 | Agent for permanent wave |
| US4976956A (en) * | 1989-07-24 | 1990-12-11 | Helene Curtis, Inc. | Method and composition to impart improved conditioning properties to the hair |
| JPH0995424A (en) * | 1995-10-02 | 1997-04-08 | Sunstar Inc | Hair cosmetic containing cationic surfactant |
| JPH10251127A (en) * | 1997-03-07 | 1998-09-22 | Henkel Japan Kk | Hair cosmetic composition |
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