JP4135059B2

JP4135059B2 - Woven interlining with excellent stretch recovery

Info

Publication number: JP4135059B2
Application number: JP2001320740A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 良司中村
Original assignee: Toyobo Co Ltd
Current assignee: Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date: 2001-10-18
Filing date: 2001-10-18
Publication date: 2008-08-20
Anticipated expiration: 2021-10-18
Also published as: JP2003129351A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は伸長回復性に優れたフィラメント織物芯地に関するもので、伸縮性と回復性能を同時に改良した芯地に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
芯地は表地の補強、成形性補佐、保形性、可縫製向上等の目的で永年にわたり、用いられてきた。芯地は表地の特性を損なうことなく、上記特性を発揮することが望まれるため表地の変化に伴い、要求特性も変わってくる。表地の要求特性の重要な１つとしてストレッチ性があり、これに対応してストレッチ性のある芯地の要求がある。
【０００３】
これに対応する技術として、特開昭６０−４５６３６号公報に見られるような、ポリウレタン等の弾性糸と非弾性繊維の複合糸を用いる方法があるが、糸を細くすることに限界があり、薄い表地に対応できない欠点がある。またポリウレタン等の弾性糸が価格が高く、特定用途にしか使えないことも問題となる。
【０００４】
また最も汎用的に用いられる方法として仮撚加工糸を用いる方法が永年用いられている。しかしこの方法では伸長性能と回復性能が相反する関係にあり、高い伸長性能を示す設計にすると回復性能が低下する欠点がある。
【０００５】
これらを改善する目的で繊維自体に弾性能を持つポリブチレンテレフタレ−トやポリトリメチレンテレフタレ−ト繊維をもちいる提案として特開平０３−２９４５０３号公報や特開平１１−２００１２４号公報がある。しかしこれらの方法も伸長性能に限界があり、これを補うため仮撚加工糸として用いる方法も提案されているが仮撚加工糸とすると回復性能が劣る欠点がる。仮撚加工糸の回復性の低下原因は個々のフィラメントの捲縮が錯綜しているためであり、繊維構造体に起因する欠点である。
【０００６】
収縮性能の異なるポリマーをサイドバイサイド型または偏心シ−スコアー型の複合繊維とし繊維に３次元的捲縮を付与してストレッチ性を付与する方法として特開平０７−４２０４２号公報が提案されているが、この糸には実質的に撚構造がないため３次元的捲縮が長手方向に反転し、結果的に右巻きの捲縮と左巻きの捲縮が混在し、伸縮性、回復性ともに阻害されパワーは強いものの、伸縮性、回復性ともに仮撚加工糸と大差ないレベルでしかない。
【０００７】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
従来の芯地特性の欠点であった高伸長領域での回復性能が低いと言う問題を解決し、高い伸長領域でも高い回復性能を持ち、かつ接着剤に表地へのしみだしの極めて少ない芯地を提供することを目的とする。
【０００８】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は下記構成からなる。
１．経糸及び／又は緯糸が実質的に下記（１）式を満足する実撚を有し、仮撚加工糸追撚法、先撚仮撚法、異溶出速度フィラメントの交撚、溶出法のいずれかによって形成された三次元コイル構造のフィラメント糸より構成され、カバーファクター（ＣＦ）が下記（２）式を満足する織物であり、かつ該織物の５００ｇ／ｃｍの定荷重伸長時の伸長率が２５％以上で同瞬間回復時の残留歪みが１０％以下であり、先撚仮撚法が、仮撚加工前に加撚し、次いで解撚方向に加撚域でオーバー解撚域まで加撚、熱セット後、解撚する方法であることを特徴とする伸長回復性に優れた織物芯地。
１２，０００／（Ｄ）^１／２≦Ｔ≦２５，０００／（Ｄ）^１／２（式１）
ここでＤは構成する糸の総繊度（デシテックス）を、Ｔはメ−トル当たりの撚数を示す。
５００≦ＣＦ≦１，０００（式２）
ＣＦ＝（経糸の総繊度）^１／２×経糸密度［本／ｉｎ］＋（緯糸の総繊度）^１／２×緯糸密度［本／ｉｎ］
ここで総繊度はデシテックスで表示される。
２．少なくとも経糸または緯糸の総繊度（Ｄ）が４０デシテックス（以下ｄＴで表記する）以下であることを特徴とする上記第１記載の伸長回復性に優れた織物芯地。
【０００９】
この有撚三次元コイル構造のフィラメント糸を得る手段として通常の仮撚加工糸に解撚方向に追撚する方法や仮撚加工前に加撚しておき、解撚方向に加撚域でオーバー解撚域まで加撚、熱セット後、解撚する方法（本発明においては先撚仮撚法という）が好ましく用いることができる。
【００１０】
もう１つの方法として通常のフィラメント糸と溶剤にたいする溶解性が高い糸を合撚、製織、熱セット後に易溶出糸を溶出する方法も用いることができる。
【００１１】
実撚数は伸縮性能を高めることと見掛け糸径を高くする上で重要であり、１２，０００／（Ｄ）^１／２を下回っても、２５，０００／（Ｄ）^１／２を上回ってもコイル径（見掛け糸径）が小さくなり、結果として伸縮性能も低下する。特に異溶解性のフィラメント糸を合撚する方法を用いる場合は易溶出糸の複合割合は２０〜５０％が好ましいが、この時の撚り数の下限値は溶出後の繊度（Ｄ２）より算出した１２，０００／（Ｄ２） ^１／２とすることがより好ましい。
【００１２】
第一図に本発明の芯地を構成する原糸の伸長地のモデル図を示した。この糸はコイル状の螺旋構造を取り、構造的な伸長能が付与されていることと、見掛け糸径が太く、糸構造内に空隙があることが余剰の接着剤が表地ににじみ出すことを防止する効果がある。
【００１３】
布帛を構成する糸に三次元コイル構造を発現させることと伸長に対する回復性能を保つ上で布のカバーファクターは重要である。５００未満となると芯地として要求される張り腰や嵩高感が不足し、１，０００を越えると三次元コイル構造が充分に発現されず、伸縮性能も低下する。三次元コイル構造は比較的荒い織物密度で構成される芯地織物の経糸緯糸の交差点のずれを抑止する効果もあり、目寄れ防止効果もそなえている。
【００１４】
これらの三次元コイル構造を発現させる手段として仮撚追撚法と異溶出合撚法を用いることができるが特に先撚仮撚法が特に好ましい。近年、芯地も薄地化、ソフト化が進み、使用される原糸の単糸繊度が益々細くなってきている。この時問題になるのが工程中で発生する毛羽であり、最も毛羽が発生し易い工程が仮撚加工での解撚域である。先撚仮撚方法では解撚域での０撚り状態が瞬時でしかなく、例えこの時に毛羽が発生しても瞬時に加撚され巻き込まれるため、次工程でトラブルを起こすことが少なくて済む利点がある。
【００１５】
また異溶出合撚法は溶出まえの糸の繊度が高く、カバーファクターが高い状態でプレセット工程まで通すことができるので織り工程以降での取扱時に発生しやすい目寄れを防止する効果もある。異溶出合撚法で用いる易溶出糸の溶出速度は遅溶出糸の溶出速度の２倍以上、より好ましくは５倍以上、更に好ましくは遅溶出糸が溶解しない溶剤で溶出可能な繊維とするここである。
【００１６】
本発明の芯地として用いる繊維は熱可塑性のフィラメント糸であれば特に限定されるものではないが、消費性能の点でポリエステル系もしくはポリアミド系がこのましい。減量加工による剪断応力を低減した芯地の要求が高まっている今はポリエステル系である事が更に好ましい。
【００１７】
以下、実施例で詳述するが特に要件を限定するものではない。
（伸長及び回復特性の測定）
ＫＥＳ（Kawabata's Evaluation System) の引張り特性( 繊維機会学会編風合い評価の標準化と解析第２版第４章２−１記載）に準じて測定した。すなわち、長さ５ｃｍ、幅２０ｃｍの試料をひずみ速度４．００×１０^-3／sec の定速で500gf/ｃｍの最大荷重まで引張り、変形回復過程に移り、応力−歪み曲線より最大荷重時の歪みを伸長率とし、回復過程の０応力到達点の歪みを残留歪みとして求めた。
【００１８】
【実施例】
（実施例−１）
ポリエステルフィラメント糸３３ｄＴ１８フィラメントの原糸にダブルツイスターでＳ方向に3,100T/mの実撚りを入れ、続いて、仮撚加工機で前記撚糸糸の解撚方向（Ｚ方向）に加撚−Ｓ方向解撚で8,300T/mの仮撚加工を実施した。この時のピン仮撚スピンドルの回転数は350,000rpm、ヒ−ター温度は210 ℃とした。撚糸及び仮撚加工時の撚り方向を全く逆としてもう１種の加工糸を得た。この２種の加工糸を経糸及び緯糸の１本交互に配して平織物とし、通常の精練−プレセット−減量−染色−ファイナルセット工程を通して、経糸密度が８５本／in、緯糸密度が６５本／inの織物を得た。ちなみに減量率は１５％とした。この織物のカバーファクターおよび伸長特性を第一表に示した。伸縮性、特に伸長回復性に優れた（在留歪みが小さい）布帛であった。また製織時の開口不良、解除不良等の毛羽に起因する問題は全くなかった。この織物にポリアミド系樹脂をシングルドットでドット密度９００個／in² で樹脂コーティングして接着芯地とした。この芯地とポリエステルジョウゼット(55T-24 バイコンフィラメント使い。伸長深度＝２８％) をフラット型プレス機で150 ℃、3.5Kg/cm²で15sec 処理してジョウゼット表面の触感、外観を評価して接着剤のしみだし状態を５段階（優、良、並、不、不可）で評価した。
【００１９】
（実施例−２）
５ソジュウム−スルホイソフタル酸を３モル％共重合したポリエステルに分子量が20,000のポリエチレングリコールを１０ｗｔ％メルトブレンドして得た易溶出ポリエステルより、３３ｄＴ１２フィラメントの延伸糸を得た。このフィラメントと実施例−１で用いたポリエステルフィラメント糸３３ｄＴ１８フィラメントの原糸を引き揃えて３，５００Ｔ／ｍの実撚りをダブルツイスターを用い施撚した。撚り方向のみを逆とした撚糸を別途用意し、この２種の撚糸を経糸及び緯糸の１本交互に配して平織りとし、以下実施例−１と同法で接着芯地を得た。但し、減量率は５５％として易溶出フィラメントの全てを溶出した。この布帛は減量工程までは経糸、緯糸とも充分な緻密性をゆうする織物であり、目寄れに特に注意を払う必要がなかった。
【００２０】
（比較例−１）
先撚はなしで仮撚加工時の仮撚数を５，２００Ｔ／ｍとした以外は実施例−１と全く同法で接着芯地として評価した。伸長回復性が劣り、伸長回復時に短時間ではあるが表地方向にカ−リングが見られた。また表地の糸の間から接着剤の平坦な部分が顔を出し、光のあて具合によっては、スポット状のギラツキが見られ。
【００２１】
（比較例−２）
先撚数を1,500T/mとした以外は実施例−１と全く同法で接着芯地として評価した。伸長回復性は比較例−１に近く加工糸のスプリング構造は充分に形成されていなかった。
【００２２】
（比較例−３）
先撚数を4,500T/mとした以外は実施例−１と全く同法で接着芯地として評価した。伸長回復性は比較例−１よりも劣り、加工糸のスプリング構造はなく、強撚糸構造となっていた。
【００２３】
【表１】

【００２４】
【発明の効果】
高い伸縮伸長性があり、高伸長領域でも高い回復性能を持ち、かつ接着剤に表地へのしみだしの極めて少ない芯地である。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】（ａ）は構成糸中の１本の繊維を取り出した時のモデル図であり、（ｂ）はマルチフィラメント状態のモデル図を示す。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a filament woven interlining excellent in stretch recovery, and relates to an interlining that simultaneously improves stretchability and recovery performance.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The interlining has been used for many years for the purpose of reinforcing the outer material, assisting the formability, retaining the shape, improving sewing, and the like. Since the interlining is desired to exhibit the above characteristics without impairing the characteristics of the outer material, the required characteristics change as the outer material changes. There is stretchability as one of the required characteristics of the outer material, and there is a demand for a stretchable interlining.
[0003]
As a technique corresponding to this, there is a method using a composite yarn of an elastic yarn such as polyurethane and an inelastic fiber as seen in JP-A-60-45636, but there is a limit to making the yarn thin, There is a disadvantage that can not cope with thin outer material. Another problem is that elastic yarns such as polyurethane are expensive and can only be used for specific purposes.
[0004]
In addition, a method using false twisted yarn has been used for many years as the most widely used method. However, in this method, the elongation performance and the recovery performance are in a contradictory relationship, and there is a drawback that the recovery performance is lowered if the design shows high elongation performance.
[0005]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 03-294503 and 11-200124 propose proposals using polybutylene terephthalate or polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having elasticity in the fiber itself for the purpose of improving these. . However, these methods also have a limit in elongation performance, and a method of using a false twisted yarn has been proposed to compensate for this. The cause of the decrease in recoverability of the false twisted yarn is that the crimps of the individual filaments are complicated, and this is a defect caused by the fiber structure.
[0006]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 07-42042 has been proposed as a method of imparting stretch properties by imparting a three-dimensional crimp to a side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core type composite fiber with different shrinkage performance, Since this yarn has virtually no twist structure, the three-dimensional crimp is reversed in the longitudinal direction, resulting in a mixture of right-handed and left-handed crimps, which hinders both stretchability and recovery. Is strong, but it has only the same level of elasticity and recovery as the false twisted yarn.
[0007]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Solves the problem of low recovery performance in the high stretch area, which was a drawback of conventional interlining properties, and has high recovery performance in the high stretch area, and has a very low ooze to the surface of the adhesive. The purpose is to provide.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention has the following configuration.
1. The warp and / or the weft has a real twist substantially satisfying the following formula (1), and any one of false twisting yarn additional twisting method, first twist false twisting method, cross-twisting of different elution rate filaments, and elution method And a cover factor (CF) satisfying the following formula (2) , and the elongation rate of the fabric at a constant load elongation of 500 g / cm is 25. %, The residual strain at the same instant recovery is 10% or less, the pre-twist false twist method is twisted before false twisting, and then twisted in the untwisting direction to the over untwisting region, A woven fabric excellent in stretch recovery, characterized by a method of untwisting after heat setting .
12,000 / (D) ^1/2 ≦ T ≦ 25,000 / (D) ^1/2 (Formula 1)
Here, D represents the total fineness (decitex) of the yarns to be constructed, and T represents the number of twists per meter.
500 ≦ CF ≦ 1,000 (Formula 2)
CF = (total warp fineness) ^1/2 × warp density [lines / in] + (total weft fineness) ^1/2 × weft density [lines / in]
Here the total fineness is displayed in decitex.
2. The fabric core excellent in stretch recovery as described in the above item 1, wherein the total fineness (D) of at least warp or weft is 40 dtex (hereinafter referred to as dT) or less .
[0009]
As a means of obtaining the filament yarn of this twisted three-dimensional coil structure, a method of retwisting a normal false twisted yarn in the untwisting direction or twisting before false twisting, and overrunning in the twisting region in the untwisting direction. A method of twisting to the untwisting zone, heat setting and then untwisting (referred to as a first twist false twisting method in the present invention ) can be preferably used.
[0010]
As another method, a method of eluting easily-eluting yarns after twisting, weaving, and heat setting a normal filament yarn and a yarn having high solubility in a solvent can be used.
[0011]
The actual number of twists is important for enhancing the stretch performance and increasing the apparent yarn diameter. Even if it falls below 12,000 / (D) ^1/2 , it exceeds 25,000 / (D) ^1/2. As a result, the coil diameter (apparent thread diameter) is reduced, and as a result, the stretchability is also lowered. In particular, when using a method of twisting differently soluble filament yarns, the composite ratio of the readily eluting yarn is preferably 20 to 50%, but the lower limit of the number of twists at this time was calculated from the fineness after elution (D2). More preferably, 12,000 / (D2) ^1/2 .
[0012]
FIG. 1 shows a model diagram of the stretched area of the raw yarn constituting the interlining of the present invention. This thread takes a coiled spiral structure, and is given structural stretchability, and the apparent thread diameter is large, and the presence of voids in the thread structure causes excess adhesive to ooze out onto the surface. There is an effect to prevent.
[0013]
The cover factor of the cloth is important in expressing the three-dimensional coil structure in the yarn constituting the cloth and maintaining the recovery performance against elongation. If it is less than 500, the tension and bulkiness required as an interlining will be insufficient, and if it exceeds 1,000, the three-dimensional coil structure will not be sufficiently developed, and the expansion / contraction performance will also deteriorate. The three-dimensional coil structure has the effect of suppressing the deviation of the intersections of the warp and weft yarns of the interwoven fabric composed of a relatively rough fabric density, and also has an anti-sticking effect.
[0014]
As a means for developing these three-dimensional coil structures, a false twist additional twist method and a different elution twist method can be used, and a tip twist false twist method is particularly preferable. In recent years, the interlining has also become thinner and softer, and the single yarn fineness of the raw yarn used has become increasingly thinner. At this time, the problem is fluff generated in the process, and the process in which fluff is most likely to occur is the untwisting region in false twisting. In the pre-twist false twist method, the zero twist state in the untwisting zone is only instantaneous, and even if fluff is generated at this time, it is instantly twisted and wound, so there is less trouble in the next process. There is.
[0015]
Further, the different elution twisting method has the effect of preventing the loosening that tends to occur during handling after the weaving process because the yarn before elution is high in fineness and can be passed through the presetting process with a high cover factor. The elution rate of the easy-eluting yarn used in the different elution twisting method is at least twice the elution rate of the slow-eluting yarn, more preferably at least five times, and still more preferably the fiber that can be eluted with a solvent that does not dissolve the slow-eluting yarn. It is.
[0016]
The fiber used as the interlining of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a thermoplastic filament yarn, but polyester or polyamide is preferable in terms of consumption performance. Now that there is a growing demand for interlinings with reduced shear stress due to weight loss processing, it is more preferable to use polyester.
[0017]
Hereinafter, although it explains in full detail in an Example, a requirement is not specifically limited.
(Measurement of elongation and recovery characteristics)
Measurement was performed according to the tensile properties of KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System) (standardization and analysis of texture evaluation edited by the Textile Opportunities Association, 2nd edition, Chapter 4-2). That is, a sample having a length of 5 cm and a width of 20 cm was pulled to a maximum load of 500 gf / cm at a constant speed of strain 4.00 × 10 ⁻³ / sec, moved to a deformation recovery process, and from the stress-strain curve, The strain was defined as the elongation rate, and the strain at the zero stress arrival point in the recovery process was determined as the residual strain.
[0018]
【Example】
(Example-1)
Polyester filament yarn 33dT18 Filament yarn is twisted 3,100 T / m in the S direction with a double twister, and then twisted in the untwisting direction (Z direction) of the twisted yarn with the false twisting machine (S direction) False twisting at 8,300 T / m was performed by untwisting. The rotational speed of the pin false twist spindle at this time was 350,000 rpm, and the heater temperature was 210 ° C. Another type of processed yarn was obtained with the twist direction during twisting and false twisting being completely reversed. These two kinds of processed yarns are alternately arranged as warps and wefts to form a plain woven fabric, and the warp density is 85 yarns / in and the weft density is 65 through the normal scouring-presetting-weight loss-dying-final setting process. A book / in fabric was obtained. Incidentally, the weight loss rate was 15%. The cover factor and elongation characteristics of this fabric are shown in Table 1. It was a fabric excellent in stretchability, particularly stretch recovery (small residence strain). Moreover, there were no problems caused by fuzz such as poor opening and poor release during weaving. This fabric was coated with a polyamide resin with single dots at a dot density of 900 / in ² to form an adhesive interlining. This interlining and polyester georgette (55T-24 bicon filament use. Elongation depth = 28%) were treated with a flat press machine at 150 ° C and 3.5 Kg / cm ² for 15 sec to evaluate the feel and appearance of the georgette surface. The oozing state of the adhesive was evaluated in five levels (excellent, good, average, bad, impossible).
[0019]
(Example-2)
A stretched yarn of 33 dT12 filament was obtained from an easily-eluting polyester obtained by melt blending polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 20,000 to 10 wt% of polyester obtained by copolymerizing 3 mol% of 5 sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. This filament and the polyester filament yarn 33dT18 filament used in Example 1 were aligned, and a real twist of 3,500 T / m was twisted using a double twister. Separately, twisted yarns with only the twist direction reversed were prepared, and two types of twisted yarns were alternately arranged as warps and wefts to form a plain weave. An adhesive core was obtained in the same manner as in Example-1. However, the weight loss rate was 55%, and all of the easily eluted filaments were eluted. This fabric is a woven fabric having sufficient density for warp and weft until the weight reduction process, and it was not necessary to pay particular attention to the looseness.
[0020]
(Comparative Example-1)
The adhesive core was evaluated in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that there was no pre-twisting and the number of false twists during false twisting was 5,200 T / m. The elongation recovery property was inferior, and curling was observed in the surface direction although it was a short time at the time of elongation recovery. Also, the flat part of the adhesive appears between the outer yarns, and spot-like glare can be seen depending on how light is applied.
[0021]
(Comparative Example-2)
The adhesive core was evaluated in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of pre-twists was 1,500 T / m. The elongation recovery property was close to that of Comparative Example-1, and the spring structure of the processed yarn was not sufficiently formed.
[0022]
(Comparative Example-3)
The adhesive core was evaluated in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of pre-twists was 4,500 T / m. The elongation recovery property was inferior to that of Comparative Example-1, and there was no spring structure of the processed yarn, and a strong twisted yarn structure was obtained.
[0023]
[Table 1]

[0024]
【The invention's effect】
It is a stretch with high stretchability, high recovery performance even in a high stretch region, and extremely low ooze to the surface of the adhesive.
[Brief description of the drawings]
1A is a model diagram when one fiber in a constituent yarn is taken out, and FIG. 1B is a model diagram in a multifilament state.

Claims

The warp and / or the weft has a real twist substantially satisfying the following formula (1), and any one of false twisting yarn additional twisting method, first twist false twisting method, cross-twisting of different elution rate filaments, and elution method And a cover factor (CF) satisfying the following formula (2) , and the elongation rate of the fabric at a constant load elongation of 500 g / cm is 25. %, The residual strain at the same instant recovery is 10% or less, the pre-twist false twist method is twisted before false twisting, and then twisted in the untwisting direction to the over untwisting region, A woven fabric excellent in stretch recovery, characterized by a method of untwisting after heat setting .
12,000 / (D) ^1/2 ≦ T ≦ 25,000 / (D) ^1/2 (Formula 1)
Here, D represents the total fineness (decitex) of the yarns to be constructed, and T represents the number of twists per meter.
500 ≦ CF ≦ 1,000 (Formula 2)
CF = (total warp fineness) ^1/2 × warp density [lines / in] + (total weft fineness) ^1/2 × weft density [lines / in]
Here the total fineness is displayed in decitex.

The woven fabric excellent in stretch recovery property according to claim 1, wherein the total fineness (D) of at least warp or weft is 40 dtex (hereinafter referred to as dT) or less.