JP4175990B2 - Culotte type pleated skirt and method for cutting the fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention particularly relates to an improvement of a culott-type pleated skirt manufactured so that it looks like a normal pleated skirt.

Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 62-132118

Traditionally, pleated skirts have been widely adopted and mass-produced as uniforms for female students.
In this pleated skirt, various forms have been proposed. As an example, in order to prevent the skirt from turning up as in the device described in Patent Document 1, the pleated skirt faces the opposite body parts. There are those with fasteners.

Also, as a kind of pleated skirt, there is a so-called culott-type pleated skirt that has a crotch portion that is coordinated so as to cross back and forth inside the outer periphery where the pleat is provided, such as slacks. The inventors have been diligently developing to make this culott-type pleated skirt suitable as a uniform for female students.
The skirt according to the device described in Patent Document 1 is simply a hook-and-loop fastener on the crotch part of the body, but this culott-type pleated skirt has a crotch part that is always separated, It is different from the skirt according to the above device.

This culott-type pleated skirt uses a left front body part, a right front body part, a left rear body part, and a right rear body part 100, which are four separate fabric pieces cut into a shape as shown in FIG. The left and right sides of each body part 100 are sewn, a waist belt member (see FIG. 1) is attached, and the schematic shape in plan view is sewn as shown in FIG.
Specifically, when the above stitching is performed, a so-called permanent press is used to form pleats 103 including straight mountain fold lines 103a and valley fold lines 103b on each body part 100, and each body part is used as a waist belt member. At the time of sewing, “sewing”, that is, sewing is performed while inserting the fabric so that the pleat width of the waist portion is smaller than the hip portion.
Further, the left or right edge of each body part 100 is shown in FIG. 8 by a part of the crotch side 101 which is a crotch part and a crotch side 102 formed continuously with the crotch side 101. The crotch portion 102 is formed as described above. In the crotch portion 102, the crotch sides 101 of the left front body portion 100LF and the right front body portion 100RF, and the crotch sides 101 of the left back body portion 100LB and the right back body portion 100RB are formed. The crotch sides 102 of the left front body portion 100LF and the left back body portion 100LB, and the crotch sides 102 of the right front body portion 100RF and the right back body portion 100RB are sewn together.

However, each of the body parts 100 has almost the same shape. In the example shown in FIGS. 7 and 8, each body part 100 has five pleats 103, and the number of pleats 103 existing around the entire surface of the culott-type pleated skirt is 20.
Here, the connection between the left front body part 100LF and the right front body part 100RF and between the left rear body part 100LB and the right back body part 100RB is made with an overlap margin 104 as shown in FIG. Therefore, the crotch part 102 does not correspond with the front-back direction of the body at the time of wear, but is coordinated diagonally.
As described above, when this culott-type pleated skirt is worn, the crotch part 102 and the wearer's leg part come into contact with each other during walking or the like, so that the crotch part 102 tends to shift in a direction that matches the front-rear direction of the body. For this reason, the skirt is displaced so as to rotate with respect to the body, which sometimes causes discomfort to the wearer.

This does not occur in a normal culott skirt, and is a problem peculiar to a culott pleated skirt provided with a pleat 103. The reason for this is that the overlap margin 104 is provided so that the crotch portion 102 is not shown on the appearance but it looks like a normal pleated skirt. By providing the overlap allowance 104, for example, in the case of the front body, a part of the pleat 103 of the right front body part 100RF is overlapped with the overlap allowance 104 provided in the left front body part 100LF, and each body part 100LF is arranged. , 100RF pleats 103 can be made to appear to be adjacent to each other in the same manner as a normal pleat skirt, and the crotch portion 102 can be hidden behind the pleats 103.
Here, as shown in FIG. 8, the number of the pleats 103 of the left front body portion 100LF and the right front body portion 100RF is equal to the number (if the number of the pleats 103 on the entire circumference of the skirt is 20, the left front body portion 100LF and the right front If the number of pleats 103 provided in each of the body parts 100RF is five, which is 1/4 of the whole body), the back body is also point-targeted with respect to the front body. As shown in FIG. 3, the crotch part 102 is arranged in an oblique direction by the amount of the overlap allowance 104 described above.

In view of the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a culott-type pleated skirt in which the crotch part is arranged in a direction that coincides with the body.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a culott-type pleated skirt having a low manufacturing cost.

  In addition, Patent Document 1 discloses that a hook-and-loop fastener is provided on the opposite body parts in order to prevent the skirt from turning up, but this is a problem as in the present invention. It does not solve.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problem, the invention according to claim 1 of the present application is characterized in that the first front body portion LF constituting the front body on either the left or right side of the skirt and the second front body constituting either the left or right front body. A first back body portion including a front body portion RF, a first back body portion LB that forms the back body of either the left or right side of the skirt, and a second back body portion RB that forms the back body of either the left or right side LB, 1st front body part LF, 2nd front body part RF, 2nd back body part RB are arranged in order, and the outer peripheral part i in which the pleats 1 were provided, and the outer peripheral part a so that it may cross back and forth The above-mentioned body parts have pleats 1, and each of these pleats 1 includes a front fold line 4 and a back fold line 5 extending in the vertical direction. It is formed by folding, and it is not hidden behind other parts of the fabric. The back cover 2 is a part that appears on the surface of the skirt, and the back cover 3 that is hidden in the other part of the fabric and does not appear on the surface of the skirt. The first back cover 31 that is adjacent to the front cover 2 with the front fold line 4 therebetween and the second back cover 32 that is adjacent to the front cover 2 without the front fold line 4 being partitioned. The first back cover 31 and the second back cover 32 are separated by a back fold line 5, and the second front body part RF and the first back body part LB are As with the first back collar 31, the front overlap margin 91y, which is adjacent to the front fence 2 with the front fold line 4 therebetween, and the portion adjacent to the front overlap margin 91y and extends in the front-rear direction of the skirt , Crotch part formation allowances 92y, 92y 'constituting a part of the crotch split part b, Is larger in the left-right direction than the first back collar 31 of the other pleats 1, and the first front body part LF and the first rear body part RB are the second back part. Similar to the heel 32, the back side overlap margin 91x adjacent to the front heel 2 without separating the front fold line 4, and the portion adjacent to the back side overlap allowance 91x and extending in the front-rear direction of the skirt, a part of the crotch part b The back side overlap allowance 91x has a dimension in the left-right direction larger than the second back collar 32 of the other pleats 1, and the crotch part forming allowances 92x, 92x ′ constituting the The split part B includes a first front crotch part forming allowance 92x that is a part of the first front body part LF, a second front crotch part forming allowance 92y that is a part of the second front body part RF, A first rear crotch part forming allowance 92y ′ which is a part of the first back body part LB, and a second back body part A second rear crotch part forming allowance 92x ′ that is a part of the RB, and the first front crotch part forming allowance 92x is continuous with the second front crotch part forming allowance 92y at the top of the skirt, The first rear crotch part forming allowance 92y ′ is continuous at the lower part of the skirt, and the second rear crotch part forming allowance 92x ′ is continuous with the first rear crotch part forming allowance 92y ′ at the upper part of the skirt. The second front crotch part forming allowance 92y is continuous with the lower part of the skirt, and the first front body part LF and the second front body part RF have different pleat numbers, respectively. The back body part LB and the second back body part RB have different numbers of pleats, and provide a culott-type pleated skirt.
In the description of an example of the embodiment of the present invention, the first front body part is the left front body part LF, the second front body part is the right front body part RF, and the first back body part is the left rear body part LB. In addition, although the second back body part corresponds to the right back body part RB, the combination of front, back, left and right should not be construed as being limited to this example.
The “upper part of the skirt” refers to the upper part of the crotch part that is the line of the connection points a and c shown in FIG. 1, and the “lower part of the skirt” refers to the lower part of the crotch part.

Further, the invention according to claim 2 of the present application is such that the crotch part b is coordinated in a direction coinciding with the front-rear direction of the wearer's body when the skirt is worn, and 2. The culott-type pleat according to claim 1 , wherein another pleat 1 is arranged on the surface side of the back side overlap allowance 91x so that at least two front fold lines 4 exist. Provide a skirt.
The phrase “the front fold line 4 exists on the front side of the back side overlap allowance 91x” includes the case where the front fold line 4 overlaps the end of the back side overlap allowance 91x. Specifically, in the example of the following embodiment, the front fold line 4 (4R) of the right front body portion RF overlaps the imaginary line 6 (6L) that is the end of the back side overlap allowance 91x of the left front body portion LF. This is the case (see FIG. 3).

In the invention according to claim 3 of the present application, the number of pleats existing around the entire surface of the skirt in the hip line h or the hem line s is X, and the back side overlap margin 91x of the first front body portion LF When the number of the front folding line 4 of the overlapping second front body part RF and the number of the front folding line 4 of the first back body part LB overlapping the back side overlap margin 91x of the second rear body part RB is Y, The number of pleats that each of the front body part LF and the second back body part RB has is calculated by the formula X / 4-Y, respectively.
And the number of pleats each of the second front body part RF and the first back body part LB has a calculation formula X / 4 + Y, respectively.
A culott-type pleated skirt according to claim 1 or 2 , characterized by the following:

The invention according to claim 4 of the present application is characterized in that the front side overlap allowance 91y is formed to be equal to the back side overlap allowance 91x in the horizontal dimension. A culott-type pleated skirt as described is provided.

  In addition, the invention according to claim 5 of the present application is the method of cutting the long material dough M when manufacturing the culott-type pleated skirt according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein The middle part LF, the second front body part RF, the first rear body part LB, and the second rear body part RB are cut as separate fabrics, and from the long raw material fabric M to the lateral direction of the fabric M Of the body parts LF, RF, LB, RB, one body part RF, LB having a larger lateral dimension, one body part LF, RB having a smaller lateral dimension, Provided is a method for cutting a fabric of a culott-type pleated skirt, characterized in that each is cut out.

  In the invention according to claims 1 to 4 of the present application, by providing a culott-type pleated skirt in which the crotch part b is arranged in a direction that coincides with the body, In contrast, the wearer does not feel uncomfortable, for example, it is displaced to rotate and must be corrected from time to time.

  Further, in the invention according to claim 5 of the present application, from the long raw material dough M, in the short direction of the dough, one body part having a larger left-right dimension is provided, and the left-right dimension is smaller. By cutting out the two body parts, it is possible to reduce the occurrence of excess cloth as compared with the prior art, and to provide a culott-type pleated skirt with a low manufacturing cost.

Hereinafter, an example of an embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing the appearance of the culott-type pleated skirt of this example, FIG. 3 and FIG. 4 are schematic explanatory views showing combinations of body parts of the skirt, and FIG. FIG. 6 is a plan view showing a right front body part and a left rear body part of the skirt.
In addition, about the expression of front and rear, right and left in this invention, it is set as the direction seen from the wearer side of the skirt. As for the expression of the front and back, the outer side when wearing the skirt is “front” and the inner side is “back”.

The culott-type pleated skirt of this example has a fabric along the paper pattern, a left front body part LF (shown in FIG. 5), a right rear body part RB (substantially the same shape as that shown in FIG. 5), and a right front body part RF. (Shown in FIG. 6) and left back body part LB (substantially the same shape as that shown in FIG. 6) are cut into separate pieces of cloth, and after forming pleats 1 on each body part, left front body part LF-right front Body part RF-Right rear body part RB-Left rear body part LB are arranged in this order, the left and right ends of each body part are stitched together, and the outer periphery provided with pleats 1 as shown in FIGS. 1 and formed as shown in FIG. 1 by stitching the waist belt member 8 to the upper end of the cylinder with a crotch portion b and a crotch portion b. Thus, a total of 20 pleats 1 are formed around the entire surface. The number of the pleats 1 can be changed as appropriate, such as 16 or 24. The pleat 1 is formed by a so-called permanent press.
In this example, each body part LF, RF, LB, RB is a separate fabric piece. However, the present invention is not limited to this, and for example, the body part is formed of two fabric pieces of the left body and the right body. It is good also as what was done, and it can change suitably.

Here, each pleat 1 will be described by dividing it into a front cover 2 and a back cover 3. Here, the front surface 2 refers to a ground portion that appears on the skirt surface in each pleat 1 without being hidden by the fabric of other portions. On the other hand, the back heel 3 is a portion of each pleat 1 that is hidden behind other portions of the fabric and does not appear on the surface. In the present application, as shown in FIG. 2, a portion of the surface of the pleat 3 that is adjacent to the front surface 2 with the front folded line 4 separated from the surface of the pleat 1 is defined as a first back surface 31. A portion adjacent to the front fold 2 without the front fold line 4 is called a second back ridge 32. The first lining 31 and the second lining 32 are folded and overlapped with the folded back fold line 5 as a boundary, and the first lining 31 is overlapped on the front side of the second lining 32. It becomes. The pleat width of the pleat 1 can be changed as appropriate by changing the interval at which the front fold line 4 and the back fold line 5 are formed.
Note that the two-dot chain line shown in FIG. 2 indicates a virtual line 6 indicating the boundary between the front surface 2 and the second back surface 32. This virtual line 6 does not appear on the fabric, but the pleats 1 When folded, the front fold line 4 is positioned on the virtual line 6.
Further, in the present application, for the sake of explanation, each table fold line 4 is regarded as a boundary between each pleat 1 and the number of table fold lines 4 is regarded as the number of pleats.

  Specifically, the body parts LF, RF, LB, and RB shown above are stitched together by stitching the connection portions a to e shown in FIG. In the connection location a, the left front body part LF and the right front body part RF are stitched together. In the connection part b, the right front body part RF and the right rear body part RB are stitched together. At the connection location c, the right back body part RB and the left back body part LB are stitched together. In the connection part d, the left back body part LB and the left front body part LF are stitched together. At the connection point e, the left front body part LF and the left back body part LB are sewn together, and the right front body part RF and the right back body part RB are sewn together.

  In addition, in order to make a dimensional difference between the waist size and the hip size at the time of the above-described stitching, crease (insertion of pleats) is performed. This is because the front fold line 4 in the waist line w is smaller than the hip line h and the hem line s so that the front fold line 4 is formed on the pleats 1 before sewing. It is to make the pleat width of the waist line w smaller than the pleat widths of the hip line h and the hem line s in the skirt when it is overlaid on the heel 32 and completed.

  Hereinafter, the relationship between the left front body part LF and the right front body part RF in the front body will be described as an example with reference to FIGS. Since the back body is point-symmetric with respect to the front body, the relationship between the right back body part RB and the left back body part LB is the same as described below. Therefore, explanation of the back body is omitted except for particularly necessary matters.

The left front body portion LF is a cloth piece as shown in FIG. 5, and the outer peripheral shape is a straight upper side 10 a in the left-right direction, a straight right side 10 b in the up-down direction, and a left-right direction. The portion provided is straight, and near the left end, as it goes to the left, the base 10c is curved to curve upward, a straight line that extends slightly to the left and a curve that curves greatly to the left. And a linear crotch side 10e extending slightly to the left from the left end portion of the crotch side 10d. Then, for sewing with the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB, the right side 10b (the stitching partner is the left back body part LB), the crotch side 10d (same front body part RF), and the crotch side 10e (same left back body part) LB) is provided with a seam allowance 7.
It should be noted that the left end portion of the seam allowance 7 on the right side 10b side becomes a back fold line 5 ′ when stitched to the left rear body portion LB.

Three pleats 1 are provided in the left front body portion LF. The pleat 1 is a combination of the front fold line 4 and the back fold line 5 'on the rightmost side of the left front body portion LF, and the other two folds in which the front fold line 4 and the back fold line 5 are combined. Formed from.
In addition, what was shown with the dashed-two dotted line in FIG. 5 is a virtual line which showed the position where the front fold line 4 overlaps when the front fold line 4 is folded in a mountain and the back fold line 5 is folded in a valley when viewed from the front side. 6. Here, the imaginary line 6 (6L) illustrated on the leftmost side indicates a position overlapping with the rightmost front folding line 4 (4R) in the right front body part RF illustrated in FIG. 6 after stitching.
In the range from the leftmost imaginary line 6 (6L) to the crotch side 10d and the crotch side 10e in the drawing, the right side is the back side overlap margin 91x with the boundary line 9y shown by the broken line as the boundary, and the left side is the left front side The crotch part formation allowance is 92x (92x 'in the right back body part RB). The boundary line 9y is a perpendicular line drawn from the contact point 9x with the right end portion of the seam allowance 7 on the crotch side 10d side in the upper side 10a. After the stitching, the contact point 9x is arranged at a coincidence point a ′ with the outer peripheral portion a in FIG.
The back side overlap allowance 91x is the same as the second back cover 32, but as will be described later, two other pleats 1 are overlapped on the surface side of the back side overlap allowance 91x in this example. Therefore, the dimension in the left-right direction is larger than the second back collar 32 in the other pleats 1.
In addition, similarly to the pleat width of the other pleats 1 described above, the dimensions of the back side overlap allowance 91x and the front side overlap allowance 91y described later can be appropriately changed.

Next, the right front body part RF will be described. In addition, the part which has the same function as the left front body part LF is demonstrated using the same code | symbol except the part which needs distinction especially.
The right front body portion RF is a cloth piece as shown in FIG. 6 and the outer peripheral shape is symmetrical to the left front body portion LF shown in FIG. The upper side 10f of the shape, the left side 10g of the straight line in the up-down direction, extending in the left-right direction, straight at the portion where the pleats 1 are provided, and in the vicinity of the right end, it curves upward as it goes to the right. A crotch side 10k consisting of a curved base 10h, a straight line extending slightly downward to the right and a curved line greatly curving to the right, and a straight crotch side 10m extending slightly downward to the right from the right end portion of the crotch side 10k. It consists of each. Then, for sewing with the left front body part LF and the right back body part RB, the left side 10g (the suture partner is the right back body part RB), the crotch side 10k (same front left body part LF), and the crotch side 10m (same right back body part) RB) is provided with a seam allowance 7 respectively.
Note that the right end portion of the seam allowance 7 on the left side 10g side becomes a reverse fold line 5 ′ when the right back body portion RB is sewn.

Unlike the left front body part LF, the right front body part RF is provided with seven pleats 1. The left front body part LF, the right front body part RF, and the right rear body part having substantially the same shape as the left front body part LF. By stitching the RB and the left back body part LB having substantially the same shape as the right front body part RF, the number of pleats on the entire circumference of the skirt becomes 20.
In the pleat 1 in the right front body portion RF, the rightmost side is composed of only the front fold line 4 (4R), and the other six portions have the front fold line 4 and the back fold line 5 as in the left front body portion LF. It is a combination. Here, the imaginary line 6 illustrated on the leftmost side indicates a position overlapping with the rightmost front folding line 4 of the right rear body part RB having substantially the same shape as that illustrated in FIG. 5 after stitching.
Also in the right front body portion RF, as in the case of the left front body portion LF, the boundary line shown by the broken line in the range from the rightmost front folding line 4 (4R) to the crotch side 10k and the crotch side 10m in the drawing. The left side is a front side overlap allowance 91y with 9y as a boundary, and the right side is a right front crotch part forming allowance 92y (92y 'in the left back body part LB). The boundary line 9y is a perpendicular line drawn from the contact point 9x with the left end portion of the seam allowance 7 on the crotch side 10k side in the upper side 10f. After the stitching, the contact point 9x is arranged at a coincidence point a ′ with the outer peripheral portion a in FIG.
This front side overlap margin 91y is the same as the first back cover 31, but overlaps with the above-described back side overlap allowance 91x. Therefore, the horizontal dimension is equal to the back side overlap allowance 91x, and other pleats. 1 is formed larger than the first lining 31 in FIG.

The front body portions LF and RF formed as described above are stitched by overlapping the crotch portion forming allowances 92x and 92y provided to each other and stitching them at the stitching allowance 7.
Here, as shown in FIG. 3, the back side overlap allowance 91x of the left front body portion LF is arranged on the left side (as viewed from the wearer) with respect to the front and rear direction of the wearer's body, and the back side overlap allowance 91x On the front side, two front folding lines 4 of the pleats 1 are overlapped and coordinated. In this way, the pleats 1 are overlapped at the back side overlap allowance 91x, so that even if the wearer of the culott-type pleated skirt of the present application moves his legs to the extent that he / she walks, the crotch part B is not visible in the appearance, The pleated skirt-like appearance can be maintained.

Here, as shown in FIG. 3, the back side overlap allowance 91x and the front side overlap allowance 91y are coordinated to the outer peripheral portion i where the pleats 1 of the skirt are provided. The part formation allowances 92x and 92y are coordinated so as to cross the inside and the outside of the outer peripheral part A to form a crotch part B.
The crotch part b is a part extending over the connection points a, e, and c shown in FIG. 3, and the crotch sides 10d and 10k correspond to the connection part a on the front body side in each body part LF and RF. The crotch sides 10e and 10m correspond to the connection location e. The same applies to the back body side, and the crotch side formed in the same manner as above in the right back body part RB and the left back body part LB corresponds to the connection part c, and the crotch side corresponds to the connection part e. To do. Here, the connection locations a, e, and c constitute the crotch-hole portion of the culott-type skirt.

And the coincidence point a 'with the outer peripheral part a in the connection part a is located in the front center of the wearer's body, and the coincidence point c' with the outer peripheral part a in the connection part c is located in the rear center of the wearer's body. To do. Therefore, the crotch part B is coordinated so as to coincide with the front-rear direction of the wearer's body.
Therefore, unlike the conventional case, the skirt is not displaced by rotating with respect to the body due to the displacement of the crotch portion b, and the wearer is not discomforted.

The number of pleats provided in each body part LF, RF, LB, RB in this example is X, where the number of pleats existing around the entire surface of the skirt in the hip line h or hem line s is X. When the number of the front fold line 4 of the right front body part RF that overlaps the back side overlap allowance 91x or the front fold line 4 of the left back body part LB that overlaps the back side overlap allowance 91x of the right back body part RB is Y, The number of pleats each of the left front body part LF and the right rear body part RB has is calculated by the formula X / 4-Y, respectively.
It is represented by In this example, the number of pleats on the entire circumference of the skirt is 20, and two front folding lines 4 of the pleat 1 exist on the front side of the back side overlap allowance 91x as shown in FIG. In other words, since Y = 2, the number of pleats of the body parts LF and RB is 20 / 4-2 = 3 (books).
In addition, the number of pleats that each of the right front body part RF and the left rear body part LB has is calculated by the formula X / 4 + Y, respectively.
It is represented by In this example, the number of pleats on the entire circumference of the skirt is 20, as described above, and two front folding lines 4 of the pleats 1 exist on the front side of the back side overlap allowance 91x as shown in FIG. . That is, since Y = 2, the number of pleats of the body parts RF and LB is 20/4 + 2 = 7 (books).

In other words, the above calculation formula divides the pleats 1 by the number of the front folding line 4 of the right front body part RF or the left back body part LB overlapping the back side overlap allowance 91x of the left front body part LF or the right rear body part RB. In order to maintain the appearance of a normal pleated skirt when the body parts LF, RF, LB, RB are formed and the body parts are stitched to produce a skirt, the pleats are formed at the back side overlap allowance 91x. Even if 1 is piled up, it is shown that the crotch part B is coordinated so as to coincide with the front-rear direction of the wearer's body.
Here, the numerical value of Y (Y = 2 in this example) can be appropriately set and implemented. However, when the number of pleats X existing on the entire circumference of the skirt is large, Y is increased accordingly. It is desirable to set.

Similarly, when the number of pleats around the skirt is 16, the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB each have two pleats, and the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB each. The number of pleats is 6. When the number of pleats around the skirt is 24, the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB each have 4 pleats, and the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB each have pleats. The number is 8 and the above formulas are satisfied (when Y = 2).
Note that the above formula does not hold when the pleats on the entire circumference of the skirt is not a multiple of 4, such as 18 or 22, but actually, the case where the number of pleats on the entire circumference of the skirt is 18 is taken as an example. The right front body part RF and the left back body part LB each have three pleats, and the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB each have six pleats. Thus, the culott-type pleated skirt according to the present invention is not necessarily limited to the one represented by the above calculation formula.

Next, a method for cutting each body part LF, RF, LB, RB will be described.
Conventionally, the body parts used for the culott-type pleated skirt are four pieces as shown in FIG. 7, and each body part 100 is cut out as a separate cloth from the long material cloth M. As shown in FIG. 9 (A), since extra cloth is generated in the periphery, it is disadvantageous in terms of manufacturing cost. Specifically, the standard dimension of the raw material dough M in the short direction is 180 cm, and each body part 100 can only be cut out from the short direction.

On the other hand, in this example, the number of pleats in the left front body part LF and the right back body part RB is three, the size in the left-right direction is small, and the number of pleats in the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB is There are seven, and the dimensions in the left-right direction are large. Therefore, when the width dimension of the raw material dough M is 180 cm, the left and right body parts LF and the right back body part RB have a left and right dimension of 90 cm or less, and the right front body part RF and the left back body part LB When the horizontal dimension is 180 cm or less, as shown in FIG. 9 (B), from the short direction of the material dough M, one right front body part RF (left back body part LB), left front body part Since two pieces of LF (right rear body part RB) can be cut out continuously, a simple comparison of the state of FIG. 9A and the state of FIG. 3/4 is sufficient, and the occurrence of excess fabric can be reduced, which makes it possible to manufacture a culott-type pleated skirt at a lower cost than before, which is advantageous.
Moreover, although it is possible to cut out each body part per skirt shown in FIG. 9 (B) continuously, the layout on the raw material fabric M when cutting each body part is particularly limited. Instead, the raw material dough M may be continued in the unit shown in FIG. 9B, or only the right front body part RF or the left front body part LF may be continued, for example.

It is a perspective view which shows the external appearance of the culott type pleated skirt which concerns on an example of embodiment of this invention. It is explanatory drawing which shows the pleat of the culott type pleated skirt of this example. It is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows the combination of each body part in the upper part of the culott type pleated skirt of this example. It is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows the combination of each body part in the lower part of the culott type pleated skirt of this example. It is a top view which shows the unfolding state of the left front body part and the right back body part of the culott type pleated skirt of this example. It is a top view which shows the unfolded state of the right front body part and left back body part of the culott type pleated skirt of this example. It is a top view which shows the expansion | deployment state of the body part of the conventional culott type pleated skirt. It is explanatory drawing which shows the combination of each body part of the conventional culott type pleated skirt. (A) is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows the layout with respect to the cloth of each body part of the conventional culott type pleated skirt, and (B) is a schematic explanatory drawing which shows the layout with respect to the cloth of each body part of the culott type pleated skirt.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Pleat 2 Front collar 3 Back collar 4 Front fold line 5 Back fold line 10b Right side of 1st (left) front body part 10d Crotch side of 1st (left) front body part 10e Crotch of 1st (left) front body part Lower side 10g Left side of the second (right) front body part 10k Rise side of the second (right) front body part 10m Crotch side of the second (right) front body part 31 First back pad 32 Second back pad 91x Back side overlap allowance 91y Front side overlap allowance 92x 1st front crotch part formation allowance 92y 2nd front crotch part formation allowance 92x '2nd back crotch part formation allowance 92x' 1st back crotch part formation allowance LF 1st front body part , Left front body part RF 2nd front body part, Right front body part LB 1st back body part, left back body part RB 2nd back body part, right back body part M Raw material fabric h Hip line s Bottom line A Outer part B Crotch Percent

Claims (5)

The first front body part (LF) that constitutes the front body of either the left or right side of the skirt, the second front body part (RF) that constitutes the front body of the other side of the left or right side, and the back body part of either the left or right side of the skirt Comprising a first back body part (LB) that constitutes and a second back body part (RB) that constitutes the back body of either the left or right side,
The first back body part (LB), the first front body part (LF), the second front body part (RF), the second back body part (RB) are arranged in this order, and the pleat (1) is provided. Forming an outer peripheral part (b) and a crotch part (b) arranged so as to cross the outer part (b) back and forth;
Each body part has a pleat (1), and each of these pleats (1) is formed by being folded by a front fold line (4) and a back fold line (5) extending in the vertical direction. There is a front cover (2) that is a part that appears on the surface of the skirt without being hidden by the cloth of the other part, and a back face that is a part that is hidden by the cloth of the other part and does not appear on the surface of the skirt ( 3)
The above-mentioned back hook (3) is separated from the first back hook (31) that is adjacent to the front hook (2) with the front folding line (4) therebetween, and the front folding hook (4) with no front folding line (4). (2) is divided into a second lining (32) that is adjacent to the first lining (31), and the first lining (31) and the second lining (32) are separated by a back fold line (5). And
The second front body part (RF) and the first back body part (LB) are separated from each other by the front fold line (4), like the first back cover (31). A front side overlap margin (91y) which is a portion adjacent to the front side and a crotch portion which is a portion adjacent to the front side overlap margin (91y) and extends in the front-rear direction of the skirt and constitutes a part of the crotch portion (b) Forming charges (92y, 92y '),
Said front side overlap allowance (91y) has a larger dimension in the left-right direction than the first lining (31) of the other pleats (1),
In addition, the first front body part (LF) and the first back body part (RB) are not separated from the front folding line (4), like the second back collar (32). ) Adjacent to the back side overlap allowance (91x) and a portion adjacent to the back side overlap allowance (91x) and extending in the front-rear direction of the skirt, forming a part of the crotch part (b) ( 92x, 92x ′)
The back side overlap allowance (91x) is larger in the left-right direction than the second back collar (32) of the other pleats (1),
The crotch part (b) is a part of the first front crotch part forming portion (92x) which is a part of the first front body part (LF) and a part of the second front body part (RF). 2 A front crotch part forming allowance (92y), a first back crotch part forming allowance (92y ') which is a part of the first back body part (LB), and a second back body part (RB) A second rear crotch part forming margin (92x ') that is a part,
The first front crotch part formation allowance (92x) is continuous with the second front crotch part formation allowance (92y) at the upper part of the skirt, and the first rear crotch part formation allowance (92y ') and the lower part of the skirt. In sequence,
The second rear crotch part formation allowance (92x ′) is continuous with the first rear crotch part formation allowance (92y ′) at the top of the skirt, and the second front crotch part formation allowance (92y) and the skirt Continuous at the bottom of
The first front body part (LF) and the second front body part (RF) have different pleat numbers, the first back body part (LB) and the second back body part (RB). Is a culott-type pleated skirt characterized by having different numbers of pleats. The crotch part (b) is arranged in a direction that coincides with the front-rear direction of the wearer's body when the skirt is worn,
And, on the surface side of the backside facing area (91x), the other pleats (1), characterized in that the table fold line (4) is coordinated overlapped so that there at least two billing Item 4. A culott-type pleated skirt according to item 1 . The number of pleats existing around the entire surface of the skirt in the hip line (h) or hem line (s) is X,
Front fold line (4) of the second front body part (RF) overlapping the back side overlap margin (91x) of the first front body part (LF),
And when the number of front fold lines (4) of the first back body part (LB) overlapping the back side overlap margin (91x) of the second back body part (RB) is Y,
The number of pleats that each of the first front body part (LF) and the second back body part (RB) has is calculated by the formula X / 4-Y, respectively.
Represented by
The number of pleats each of the second front body part (RF) and the first back body part (LB) has, respectively, the calculation formula X / 4 + Y.
The culott-type pleated skirt according to claim 1 or 2 , characterized in that: The culott-type pleated skirt according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the front side overlap margin (91y) is formed to be equal to the back side overlap margin (91x) with respect to a lateral dimension. In manufacturing the culott-type pleated skirt according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in a method of cutting a long raw material dough (M),
The first front body part (LF), the second front body part (RF), the first back body part (LB), the second back body part (RB) are cut as separate fabrics,
From the long raw material dough (M), in the short direction of the dough (M), among the body parts (LF, RF, LB, RB), the body part (RF, A cutting method for a fabric of a culott-type pleated skirt, wherein one piece of LB) and two pieces of body parts (LF, RB) having a smaller lateral dimension are cut out.

Images