JP4190838B2 - Interwoven fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

【００２５】
表１から、本発明で得られた交織物は、しわ回復性および反発性が高く、しかも引裂強さが大きく、強度低下が少ないことが確認された。これに対し、比較例１〜７では、しわ回復性、反発性および強度のいずれにも優れた交織物は得られなかった。
【００２６】
【発明の効果】
本発明の交織物およびその製造方法によれば、家庭洗濯などでしわ発生が少なく、かつ、強度低下による擦り切れなどの発生がない上に、反発性に優れた交織物を提供することができる。また、裏地用途に適した、経方向のストレッチ性を有し、着用時の滑り性に優れた交織物を提供することができる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a cross fabric and a method for manufacturing the cross fabric, and more particularly to a cross fabric having a small amount of wrinkle generation and strength reduction and excellent resilience, a method for manufacturing the back fabric, and a lining.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Traditionally, acetate fibers are widely used for lining and outwear because they are clear and glossy and have a dry texture. However, wrinkles tend to occur and the strength is low, so that there are problems such as wrinkles generated by home washing and fraying.
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-21569, in order to improve the strength and texture of acetate fiber, it is treated with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at a concentration of 4 g / L or more (in the examples, an aqueous solution of 25 g / L is 60 ° C.). And the weight is reduced to 1 to 8% by weight by saponification.
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 61-34275 discloses a treatment with an aqueous solution containing a strong alkali and an inorganic salt in order to obtain a fabric having a silky texture and a drape (in the examples, 40 g / L of sodium hydroxide, acetic acid). A method is described in which an aqueous solution of sodium 120 g / L is treated at 80 ° C. and the weight is reduced by 10% or more by saponification.
However, none of the methods can sufficiently improve the generation of wrinkles and strength reduction due to washing.
[0003]
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 57-21569 [Patent Document 2]
JP-A-61-34275 [0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, reduce wrinkling in home washing, etc., reduce occurrence of fraying due to reduced strength, etc., and use cross-woven fabric using acetate fibers excellent in resilience And providing a manufacturing method thereof.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The inventors of the present invention diligently studied the above-mentioned problems, and as a result of examining the characteristics of acetate fibers, alkali treatment was applied to a woven fabric woven using acetate fibers and regenerated cellulosic fibers, and the acetate fibers of the woven fabric were partially treated. Thus, the present inventors have found that the saponification can reduce wrinkles and reduce the strength reduction, and thus the present invention has been achieved.
The invention claimed in the present application in order to achieve the above object is as follows.
[0006]
(1) A cross fabric having a saponified acetate fiber and a regenerated cellulosic fiber , wherein the stretch rate of the cross fabric in the cross-weave direction of the acetate fiber is 5 to 30% and the stretch recovery rate is 60.1 to 65 A cross-woven fabric characterized by 9% .
(2) The cross fabric according to (1), wherein a weight reduction rate due to saponification of the acetate fiber is 5 to 20% by weight.
(3) After obtaining a cross fabric having acetate fibers and regenerated cellulosic fibers, the cross fabric is subjected to alkali treatment with an alkaline aqueous solution having an alkali agent concentration of 5 to 80 g / L. Method.
(4) The method for producing a woven fabric according to (3), wherein a fineness ratio (regenerated cellulose fiber: acetate fiber) of the regenerated cellulose fiber and acetate fiber is 1: 1 to 2.5.
(5) A woven fabric according to (1) or (2), characterized in that it has regenerated cellulosic fibers as warps and saponified acetate fibers as wefts.
(6) The lining according to (5), wherein the cross fabric is a twill fabric.
[0007]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The union fabric in the present invention has a saponified acetate fiber and a regenerated cellulosic fiber, and the elongation rate of at least one union fabric is 5 to 30%, preferably in the union direction of the saponified acetate fiber. Is 7 to 25%, more preferably 10 to 20%. For outwear that requires particularly high stretchability, 5 to 30% is preferable, and for plain fabrics such as a lining, 5 to 20% is preferable as long as it provides a comfortable wearing feeling when worn. When the elongation rate is less than 5%, wrinkle recovery by washing is insufficient in any application, and the stretchability is insufficient. When the elongation rate exceeds 30%, the elongation recovery rate is low, the resilience is poor, and the appearance quality is lowered.
Examples of the acetate fiber used in the present invention include cellulose diacetate fiber and cellulose triacetate fiber, and it is particularly preferable to use cellulose diacetate fiber having an average acetylation degree of less than 56%. Further, as the regenerated cellulose fiber, cupra, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon and the like are used. The acetate fiber is interwoven with regenerated cellulosic fiber, as will be described later, and then subjected to alkali treatment to be partially saponified.
[0008]
The fineness of the acetate fiber and the regenerated cellulose fiber is not particularly limited, but is preferably 33 to 220 dtex. These yarn forms may be bulky processed yarns such as raw yarns, false twisted processed yarns, fluid jet processed yarns, twisted yarns, and the like.
When manufacturing a cross fabric, it is preferable that the fineness ratio (regenerated cellulose fiber: acetate fiber) of the regenerated cellulose fiber and acetate fiber is 1: 1 to 2.5. When the fineness of the acetate fiber is smaller than that of the regenerated cellulosic fiber, the strength of the fiber is lowered due to saponification of the acetate fiber in the cross fabric described later, and the yarn is liable to be displaced by an external force. On the other hand, when the fineness of the acetate fiber exceeds 2.5 times the fineness of the regenerated cellulosic fiber, the woven structure balance may be lost and the appearance quality may be lowered.
[0009]
The woven fabric in the present invention is only required to interweave acetate fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, acetate fibers or regenerated cellulose fibers may be used for the warp, and regenerated cellulose fibers or acetate fibers may be used for the wefts. There is no particular limitation, and for example, plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and the like are used. In particular, in the lining, a cross-woven fabric having regenerated cellulosic fibers as warps and saponified acetate fibers as wefts is preferable because the product can be given a stretch feeling in the weft direction. Furthermore, in order to provide slipperiness such as through sleeves when worn, it is preferable that a large amount of regenerated cellulose fiber is exposed on the lining surface (human body side) as much as possible. It is also possible to use other fibers other than the above in combination as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.
In the present invention, the rate of weight reduction due to saponification of acetate fibers is preferably 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 7 to 15% by weight. This weight reduction rate is an indicator of the saponification rate of acetate fibers. If the rate of weight reduction due to saponification of acetate fiber is less than 5% by weight, the characteristics of acetate fiber may remain, and rebound and stretch may not be obtained. It tends to occur.
[0010]
The cross fabric in the present invention can be produced by the following method.
First, acetate fiber and regenerated cellulosic fiber are interwoven to form an interwoven fabric. Thereafter, alkali treatment is performed with an alkaline aqueous solution to saponify acetate fibers in the cross-woven fabric.
According to such a method, at the time of alkali treatment with an alkaline aqueous solution, there are acetate fibers having a low degree of swelling with respect to water and regenerated cellulosic fibers having a high degree of swelling with respect to water. Since the degree of swelling can be increased and the distortion of the cross fabric can be relaxed, it is possible to impart excellent resilience and stretchability to the cross fabric that could not be achieved so far. Therefore, when a saponified acetate fiber and a regenerated cellulose fiber are woven together, it is difficult to obtain a cross woven fabric having excellent resilience and stretchability as described above.
[0011]
The concentration of the alkali agent when treating the acetate fiber in the cross woven fabric with an alkaline aqueous solution is appropriately set in relation to the type of alkali agent and the treatment time, but is generally treated with an alkaline aqueous solution of 5 to 80 g / L. Saponification is preferred. A preferable alkali agent concentration is 10 to 50 g / L.
Examples of the alkaline agent used in the alkaline aqueous solution include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium silicate and the like. If the alkali agent concentration is less than 5 g / L, the saponification of the acetate fiber is not sufficient, and wrinkles are likely to occur during washing, and if it exceeds 80 g / L, the variation in fabric strength increases and the product can withstand the product. May be difficult to maintain.
The temperature of the alkaline aqueous solution during the alkali treatment is preferably 20 to 80 ° C. When the temperature is lower than 20 ° C., the strength decreases greatly, and when it exceeds 80 ° C., yellowing may occur.
[0012]
It is preferable to appropriately set the treatment form with the alkaline aqueous solution according to the function and use of the cross fabric to be obtained. For example, when a plain woven fabric having low stretchability is used in a field such as a lining, it is preferable to use a spread processing machine such as a continuous scouring machine or a mercerizing machine. By using this treatment method, it is possible to produce a fabric with very little wrinkling. In addition, when a fabric is given a certain level of unevenness and is used in fields such as outwear where more resilience and stretchability are required, it is preferable to use a liquid flow dyeing machine, a washer dyeing machine, or the like. By using this treatment method, the fabric can be treated in a relaxed state, and high resilience and stretchability can be obtained. It is also possible to cause fibrils on the fabric surface by using a liquid dyeing machine or a washer dyeing machine. As the alkali agent used at that time, sodium hydroxide is most preferable.
[0013]
The treatment time with the alkaline aqueous solution varies depending on the type and treatment concentration of the alkaline agent, but the immersion time is preferably 15 seconds or more, and more preferably 30 seconds or more including the timing time until dealkalization. If the immersion time is less than 15 seconds, saponification is not sufficient, and wrinkles may occur during washing.
After the treatment with the alkaline aqueous solution, the temperature in the neutralization and water washing treatment for the purpose of dealkalization is preferably 10 ° C to 80 ° C. If the temperature is less than 10 ° C., the alkali agent may remain in the woven fabric, resulting in a decrease in strength of the woven fabric or yellowing, and neutralization up to 80 ° C. and a washing temperature are sufficient for dealkalization.
[0014]
The saponified cross fabric can be dyed and finished by a conventional method. In dyeing, when used in a field such as lining, continuous dyeing such as a cold pad batch method and a pad steam method using a reactive dye is preferable. Moreover, when using in field | areas, such as outwear, the dyeing | staining by a liquid dyeing machine using a reactive dye, an airflow dyeing machine, etc. is preferable, for example. In finishing, in the case of lining, etc., by applying so-called resin processing using dimethylol / dihydroxy / ethyleneurea resin or dimethyl / dihydroxy / ethyleneurea resin, a higher degree of shrinkage resistance and wrinkle resistance is given. Is done. Further, in the case of outwear or the like, an amino-modified silicone softener or a cationic softener is added, and finishing using an air flow type cloth dryer or the like gives a higher degree of stretchability. In order to obtain a higher degree of shrinkage resistance, the above-described resin processing may be performed.
[0015]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, each characteristic in an example was measured with the following method.
i) Elongation rate and elongation recovery rate: According to JIS-L-1096, the elongation rate of the woven fabric in the direction of acetate fibers was measured by the B method, and the elongation recovery rate was measured by the B-1 method. The elongation recovery rate is an index of the resilience of the cross fabric.
ii) W & W property: After tumble drying according to JIS-L-1096A method, three evaluators observed the wrinkle recoverability of each of the three samples, and rated from grade 1 to grade 5. The average value of a total of nine samples was calculated. Grades 3.5 and above were accepted.
iii) Tear strength: According to JIS-L-1096 pendulum method, the tear strength of the cross fabric in the direction of acetate fiber was measured. This tear strength is an indicator of the strength reduction of the cross fabric.
iv) Weight reduction rate: The absolute dry weight (weight before alkali treatment) A and the absolute dry weight B after alkali treatment of the scoured cross-woven fabric were measured and calculated by the following formula. The absolute dry weights A and B are measured by sampling acetate fibers from the woven fabric.
Weight reduction rate (%) = [(A−B) / A] × 100
v) Average degree of acetylation: Acetate fibers were sampled from the woven fabric according to JIS-L-1013 and measured.
[0016]
Examples 1-3
Plain woven fabric (warp density: 112 yarns / 2.2) using cellulose diacetate filament (average acetylation degree 51%) 84 dtex / 20f for warp and cupra 135 dtex / 70f (trade name, Bemberg (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) for weft. 54 cm, weft density 74 / 2.54 cm) was prepared, and alkali treatment, dyeing and finishing were performed under the following conditions.
[0017]
<Alkali treatment>
Using an open soap type scouring machine (8 tanks), the alkali treatment was performed under the following conditions in the expanded state.
First tank: Sodium hydroxide was immersed in each aqueous solution of 10 g / L (Example 1), 20 g / L (Example 2), and 50 g / L (Example 3) at 50 ° C. for 15 seconds (second (The timing until the tank is 25 seconds)
2nd tank: hot water wash 80 ° C, 15 seconds 3rd tank: hot water wash 80 ° C, 15 seconds 4th tank: scouring scouring agent: Scoreroll FC-250 (trade name, anionic surfactant manufactured by Kao Corporation) 2cc / L, 80 ° C., 15 seconds 5th tank: scouring Scouring agent: Scoreroll FC-250, 2 cc / L, 80 ° C., 15 seconds 6th tank: neutralized acetic acid 10 cc / L 30 ° C., 15 seconds 7th tank: hot water Washing 80 ° C., 15 seconds, 8th tank: Hot water washing 80 ° C., 15 seconds, followed by drying at 100 ° C. in a cylinder dryer.
[0018]
<Dye color>
It dye | stained with the cold pad batch method on the following conditions.
The following dye solution was dip-niped at a pressure of 0.4 Mpa, lapped with a polyethylene sheet, and then aged at 25 ° C. for 16 hours. Subsequently, the mixture was neutralized with 1 cc / L of acetic acid at 50 ° C., washed with hot water twice at 80 ° C. for 5 minutes, and then dried at 100 ° C. using a cylinder dryer.
Staining solution composition:
Sumifix Brill. Blue B
(Sumika Dye Tech Co., Ltd., vinyl sulfone type reactive dye) 20g / L
Urea 10g / L
Trisodium phosphate 30g / L
[0019]
<Finish>
Finishing was performed under the following conditions to obtain a cross fabric.
As a finishing agent, a 1% by weight aqueous solution of Nikka Silicon AMZ (product of Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., amino-modified silicone softener) is dip-niped at a pressure of 0.5 Mpa, and then used at 100 ° C. for 1 minute using a pin tenter dryer. After drying, it was subsequently cured at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes.
[0020]
Comparative Examples 1-2
The plain fabric used in Example 1 was subjected to alkali treatment, dyeing and finishing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the alkali treatment concentrations were 4 g / L (Comparative Example 1) and 90 g / L (Comparative Example 2), respectively. .
Comparative Example 3
Plain woven fabric using cellulose diacetate filament (average acetylation degree 51%) 84 dtex / 20f for warp and cellulose diacetate filament (average acetylation degree 51%) 135 dtex / 32f for weft (112 warp density / 2.54 cm, 74 weft density / 2.54 cm) was prepared, and scouring, dyeing and finishing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 1.
[0021]
Example 4
Twill fabric (warp density 144 / 2.54cm) using cupra 84dtex / 45f (trade name Bemberg (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) for warp and cellulose diacetate filament (average acetylation degree 51%) 110dtex / 24f for weft , 88 weft density / 2.54 cm), and alkali treatment and dyeing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 3. Subsequently, resin processing was performed under the following conditions to obtain an interwoven fabric for lining.
Resin processing liquid composition unylene NF-168N (trade name, manufactured by Union Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Dimethyl / dihydroxy / ethylene urea resin) 8% by weight
UNICATALIST MS-8 (trade name, catalyst, manufactured by Union Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2.6% by weight
Nikka Silicon AMZ (trade name, amino-modified silicone softener manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1% by weight
The resin processing aqueous solution was dip-niped at a pressure of 0.5 Mpa, dried at 100 ° C. for 1 minute using a pin tenter dryer, and then cured at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes.
Example 5
We prepare twill fabric (warp density 144 / 2.54cm, weft density 88 / 2.54cm) using cupra 84dtex / 45f for warp and cellulose diacetate filament (average acetylation degree 51%) 84dtex / 20f for weft Then, under the same conditions as in Example 4, alkali treatment, dyeing, and resin processing were performed to obtain a woven fabric for lining.
Example 6
Alkaline treatment, dyeing, and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 4 except that the alkali treatment concentration of the twill fabric used in Example 4 was changed to 80 g / L, to obtain an interwoven fabric for lining.
Comparative Example 4
Alkaline treatment, dyeing, and resin processing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 4 except that the twill fabric used in Example 4 had an alkali treatment concentration of 0 g / L.
Examples 7-9
The plain fabric used in Example 1 was subjected to alkali treatment, dyeing and finishing under the following conditions.
<Alkali treatment>
Using a liquid dyeing machine, sodium hydroxide was added in an aqueous solution of 10 g / L (Example 7), 20 g / L (Example 8), and 50 g / L (Example 9) at a bath ratio of 1:20, 80 The alkali treatment for 30 minutes was performed at 0 degreeC.
Subsequently, it was washed with hot water at the same temperature for 10 minutes, neutralized with an acetic acid 10 cc / L aqueous solution at 80 ° C. for 10 minutes, and then again washed with hot water at the same temperature for 10 minutes.
[0022]
<Dye color>
It dye | stained using the liquid dyeing machine on the following conditions.
Staining solution composition:
Sumifix Brill. Blue B
(Sumika Dye Tech Co., vinyl sulfone type reactive dye) 2% omf
Sodium sulfate 100g / L
Sodium carbonate 15g / L
It dye | stained for 60 minutes at 60 degreeC by the bath ratio 1:20. Subsequently, the mixture was neutralized with 1 cc / L of acetic acid at 50 ° C. for 10 minutes, then washed with hot water at 80 ° C. for 10 minutes twice, dehydrated, and dried at 100 ° C. for 1 minute using a pin tenter dryer.
<Finish>
As a finishing agent, after impregnating a 1% by weight aqueous solution of Nikka Silicon AMZ (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd .: amino-modified silicone softener), it is 100 ° C. using AIRO1000 (registered trademark, airflow dryer). And dried for 20 minutes. Subsequently, curing was performed at 160 ° C. for 2 minutes using a pin tenter dryer.
[0023]
Comparative Examples 5-6
The plain fabric used in Example 1 was subjected to alkali treatment, dyeing and finishing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the alkali treatment concentration was 2 g / L (Comparative Example 5) and 90 g / L (Comparative Example 6), respectively. .
Comparative Example 7
The plain fabric used in Comparative Example 3 was scoured, dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 7.
Each characteristic of the woven fabric obtained in Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was examined, and the results are shown in Table 1.
[0024]
[Table 1]

[0025]
From Table 1, it was confirmed that the union woven fabric obtained by the present invention has high wrinkle recovery and resilience, high tear strength, and little strength reduction. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1-7, the cross fabric excellent in all of wrinkle recovery property, resilience, and intensity | strength was not obtained.
[0026]
【The invention's effect】
According to the cross fabric of the present invention and the method for producing the cross fabric, it is possible to provide a cross fabric that is less likely to be wrinkled in home washing and the like, is free from fraying due to a decrease in strength, and has excellent resilience. Moreover, the cross fabric which has the stretch property of the warp direction suitable for lining use, and was excellent in the slipperiness at the time of wear can be provided.

Claims (6)

A cross fabric having saponified acetate fibers and regenerated cellulosic fibers, wherein the stretch ratio of the acetate fibers in the cross weave direction is 5 to 30% , and the stretch recovery rate is 60.1 to 65.9%. An interwoven fabric characterized by being. The union fabric according to claim 1, wherein a weight reduction rate due to saponification of the acetate fiber is 5 to 20% by weight. A method for producing a cross fabric comprising obtaining a cross fabric having acetate fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, and then subjecting the cross fabric to an alkali treatment with an alkaline aqueous solution having an alkali agent concentration of 5 to 80 g / L. 4. The method for producing a woven fabric according to claim 3, wherein the fineness ratio of the regenerated cellulose fiber and acetate fiber (regenerated cellulose fiber: acetate fiber) is 1: 1 to 2.5. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, comprising a regenerated cellulosic fiber as a warp and a saponified acetate fiber as a weft. The lining according to claim 5, wherein the cross fabric is a twill fabric.