JP4267098B2 - Yukata - Google Patents
Yukata Download PDFInfo
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- JP4267098B2 JP4267098B2 JP24133398A JP24133398A JP4267098B2 JP 4267098 B2 JP4267098 B2 JP 4267098B2 JP 24133398 A JP24133398 A JP 24133398A JP 24133398 A JP24133398 A JP 24133398A JP 4267098 B2 JP4267098 B2 JP 4267098B2
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- Prior art keywords
- hollow cross
- yarn
- section
- yukata
- hollow
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
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- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 13
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000010622 cold drawing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000035807 sensation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003672 processing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、ナチュラルな表面感とスパンライクな触感、清涼感を有するゆかた地に適した織物に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来、ゆかた地としては、綿織物が主として用いられてきたが、取扱いが容易な合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸を用いたゆかた地を作ることが種々試みられてきた。例えば、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント加工糸を用いたウォッシュアンドウエア性、軽量性，強靱性をもつゆかた地が知られている。しかしこれらはいずれも、合成繊維特有のぬめり感があって、清涼感に乏しく、ただ単にウォッシュアンドウエア性があるだけであって、着心地は綿織物によりゆかた地に比べて悪いものであった。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、このような現状に鑑みて行われたもので、合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸のもつウォッシュアンドウエア性、軽量性、強靱性をもちながら、スパンライクな触感、清涼感を有し、見た目にもナチュラルな表面感を有したゆかた地を提供することを課題とするものである。
【０００４】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、上記の課題を解決するものであり、構成する各単フィラメントの長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部とを交互に有し、かつ各単フィラメント間で長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部の位相が異なっているポリエステルマルチフィラメント捲縮加工糸を経糸および／または緯糸に用いてなるゆかた地に適した織物を使用してなるゆかた及び前記織物に地糸を２〜６本引揃えて経畝あるいは緯畝が形成されている上記ゆかたを要旨とするものである。
【０００５】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
本発明の織物は、構成する各単フィラメントの長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部とを交互に有し、かつ各単フィラメント間で長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部の位相が異なっているポリエステルマルチフィラメント捲縮加工糸が経糸または緯糸あるいは経糸と緯糸の両方に用いられている。
【０００６】
本発明の織物に用いられているポリエステルマルチフィラメント捲縮加工糸は、構成する各単フィラメントの長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部とを交互に有している。この中空断面部は、単フィラメントの横断面における中空部を意味していて、中空部の形状は、丸形であってもよいが、通常丸が潰された状態の不特定形状となっていて、単フィラメントの長手方向において変化している。一方非中空断面部は、単フィラメントの横断面において実質的に中空部が存在しない部分である。またこの加工糸の各単フィラメントの長手方向の中空断面部と非中空断面部は、位相が異なる状態で存在する。すなわちこの加工糸の横断面は、図１に示すように中空断面のフィラメントと非中空断面のフィラメントが混在している。
【０００７】
このようなポリエステルマルチフィラメント捲縮加工糸は、通常の高速紡糸法で得られる中空断面を有するポリエステル高配向未延伸糸を用いて特定の条件で延伸同時仮撚加工を行うことやこの中空断面を有するポリエステル高配向未延伸糸を弛緩熱処理→冷延伸→仮撚加工の一連の工程で処理することによって得ることが出来る。中空断面を有するポリエステル高配向未延伸糸を用いて通常の条件で仮撚加工を行うと、供給糸の有していた中空断面が完全に潰れた加工糸となってしまうので、通常の条件より延伸倍率と仮撚数を低く設定して仮撚加工すれば、加撚状態で糸条の外側に位置するフィラメントと内側に位置するフィラメントで受ける応力が異なり、外側のフィラメントは中空部が潰されて消滅し、内側になる程受ける応力が小さく変形度が小さく中空部が残る。一方糸条は連続して走行しているので同一単フィラメントは糸条の外側に位置したり、内側に位置したりしながら施撚されるので、各単フィラメントには長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部とが形成され、かつ単フィラメント間でその位相が異なったものとなる。
【０００８】
このような加工方法によって得られた加工糸は、各単フィラメントに長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部とが形成され、かつ単フィラメント間でその位相が異なったものとなると共に、中空部の形状、フィラメントの外形共に単フィラメントに長手方向で変化し、特にフィラメントの外形は、供給糸の外形が丸形であっても中空部が変形することにより偏平形状になってくる。これらのことは織物において、スパンライクな触感、清涼感を有し、見た目にもナチュラルな表面感を呈するのにより大きく寄与するものとなる。また、この加工糸の単フィラメントの長手方向の見掛けの太さも微妙に変化したものとなる。このことは、織物のスパンライクな触感、清涼感、ナチュラルな表面感をより向上するものとなる。本発明のゆかた地に適した織物は、上記のポリエステルフィラメント捲縮加工糸を経糸と緯糸の両方あるいは経糸または緯糸のいずれか一方に用いてなるものであり、その組織はいずれでもよいが、地組織として平組織を用い、その中に経畝あるいは緯畝を形成する組織とし、織物に経縞柄あるいは緯縞柄を形成したものが好ましい。また畝組織は地糸を２〜６本引揃えて形成させ、畝組織を形成させるのは、上記の捲縮加工糸によるのが好ましい。この畝組織は、規則的な間隔で設けても不規則な間隔で設けてもよく、畝を形成する糸条の引揃え本数も規則的としてもよいし、不規則的に配置してもよい。畝組織を形成するための引揃え本数を６本を越える本数とすると、ゆかたとして着用時等にスナッギングの発生等の問題が発生しやすくなる。
本発明において、他の糸条と交織する場合においても上記の捲縮加工糸の使用割合が５０％を下回らないようにする。上記の捲縮加工糸の使用割合が５０％未満となると、本発明の特徴が損なわれ好ましくない。
【０００９】
【実施例】
以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明する。
実施例１
紡糸速度３３００ｍ／分で引取った中空率２０％の丸断面のポリエステル高配向未延伸糸１５０ｄ／４８ｆを弛緩熱処理−冷延伸−仮撚の一連の加工工程にて、弛緩条件として、弛緩率１００％、熱処理温度１８０℃、冷延伸条件として、延伸倍率２．０倍、仮撚条件として、仮撚数Ｚ２０００ｔ／ｍ、仮撚温度１８０℃、延伸倍率１．１５、糸速１２０ｍ／分に設定して加工し、各単フィラメントの長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部とを交互に有し、かつ各単フィラメント間で長手方向に中空断面部と非中空断面部の位相が異なっているポリエステルマルチフィラメント捲縮加工糸を得た。この加工糸にＳ２５０ｔ／ｍの追撚を施し、糊付して経糸とし、緯糸には追撚糸をそのまま使用して、地組織を平組織とし、経畝部の引揃え本数を３本とし、経畝部を１吋に５本の割合で均一に配置して製織し、精練、リラックス−プレセット−アルカリ処理−染色−ファイナルセットの各工程を経て本発明のゆかた地に適した織物を得た。得られた織物をゆかたに縫製したところ、ポリエステルからなる織物でありながら、ぬめり感、重み感がなく軽くて、ナチュラルな表面感、スパンライクな触感、清涼感を有し、ゆかたとして好適なものであった。
【００１０】
【発明の効果】
本発明は、軽くて、ナチュラルな表面感、スパンライクな触感、清涼感を有するゆかたを提供することができるものである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明に用いられる捲縮加工糸の横断面のモデル図である。
【符号の説明】
１ 中空断面フィラメント
２ 非中空断面フィラメント[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a woven fabric suitable for a yukata ground having a natural surface feeling, a spun-like touch feeling, and a refreshing feeling.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, cotton fabric has been mainly used as yukata, but various attempts have been made to make yukata using synthetic fiber multifilament yarn that is easy to handle. For example, yukata is known which has wash and wear properties, lightweight properties and toughness using polyester multifilament processed yarn. However, all of these have a slimy feeling peculiar to synthetic fibers, have a refreshing feeling, and have only a wash-and-wear property.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been made in view of such a situation, and has a spun-like touch feeling and a refreshing feeling while having the wash and wear property, light weight, and toughness of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn. In addition, it is an object to provide a yukata with a natural surface feeling.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention solves the above-mentioned problem, and has a hollow cross-section portion and a non-hollow cross-section portion alternately in the longitudinal direction of each single filament constituting the hollow cross-section portion in the longitudinal direction between the single filaments. the ground yarn in yukata and the fabrics made using a polyester multifilament crimped yarn phase of the non-hollow cross section are different suitable Yu how land formed by using the warp and / or
[0005]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The woven fabric of the present invention has hollow cross-sections and non-hollow cross-sections alternately in the longitudinal direction of each single filament, and the phase of the hollow cross-section and non-hollow cross-section in the longitudinal direction is between each single filament. Different polyester multifilament crimped yarns are used for warp or weft or both warp and weft.
[0006]
The polyester multifilament crimped yarn used in the woven fabric of the present invention has hollow cross-sections and non-hollow cross-sections alternately in the longitudinal direction of each single filament constituting the yarn. This hollow cross-sectional portion means a hollow portion in the cross section of a single filament, and the shape of the hollow portion may be round, but is usually an unspecified shape in a state where the round is crushed. , And changes in the longitudinal direction of the single filament. On the other hand, the non-hollow cross-sectional portion is a portion where the hollow portion does not substantially exist in the cross section of the single filament. Further, the hollow cross-sectional portion and the non-hollow cross-sectional portion in the longitudinal direction of each single filament of the processed yarn exist in different phases. That is, as shown in FIG. 1, the cross-section of this processed yarn is a mixture of hollow cross-section filaments and non-hollow cross-section filaments.
[0007]
Such polyester multifilament crimped yarn is obtained by performing simultaneous false twisting under specific conditions using a polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn having a hollow cross section obtained by a normal high-speed spinning method. It can be obtained by treating the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a series of steps of relaxation heat treatment → cold drawing → false twisting. When false twisting is performed under normal conditions using a polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn having a hollow cross section, the hollow cross section that the supply yarn has has become a completely crushed processed yarn. If the draw ratio and the number of false twists are set low and false twisting is performed, the stress received by the filament located outside the yarn in the twisted state and the filament located inside is different, and the hollow part of the outside filament is crushed. It disappears, and as it goes inside, the stress received is small and the degree of deformation is small, leaving a hollow part. On the other hand, since the yarn runs continuously, the same single filament is twisted while being located outside or inside the yarn, so that each single filament has a hollow cross-section in the longitudinal direction. A non-hollow cross section is formed, and the phases differ between single filaments.
[0008]
In the processed yarn obtained by such a processing method, each single filament is formed with a hollow cross-section portion and a non-hollow cross-section portion in the longitudinal direction, and the phases differ between the single filaments. Both the shape of the filament and the outer shape of the filament change to a single filament in the longitudinal direction, and the outer shape of the filament becomes a flat shape due to the deformation of the hollow portion even when the outer shape of the supply yarn is round. These have a spongy tactile sensation and a refreshing sensation in the woven fabric, and greatly contribute to the appearance of a natural surface feeling. Further, the apparent thickness in the longitudinal direction of the single filament of the processed yarn is slightly changed. This further improves the spun feel, coolness and natural surface feel of the fabric. The fabric suitable for the yukata fabric of the present invention is one in which the above-mentioned polyester filament crimped yarn is used for both warp and weft or either warp or weft. A structure in which a plain structure is used as a structure, a warp or a weft is formed therein, and a warp pattern or a weave pattern is formed on a woven fabric is preferable. In addition, it is preferable that the crimped structure is formed by aligning 2 to 6 ground yarns, and the crimped yarn is used for forming the folded structure. The wrinkle structure may be provided at regular intervals or at irregular intervals, and the number of yarns forming the wrinkles may be regular or may be arranged irregularly. . If the number of alignments for forming the heel tissue is more than six, problems such as the occurrence of snuggling are likely to occur when worn as a yukata.
In the present invention, even when weaving with other yarns, the ratio of the crimped yarn used should not be less than 50%. When the ratio of the crimped yarn used is less than 50%, the characteristics of the present invention are impaired, which is not preferable.
[0009]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples.
Example 1
Polyester highly oriented unstretched yarn 150d / 48f having a round cross section with a hollow rate of 20% taken up at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min was used as a relaxation condition in a series of relaxation heat treatment-cold drawing-false twisting. %, Heat treatment temperature 180 ° C., cold drawing conditions, draw ratio 2.0 times, false twist conditions, false twist number Z2000 t / m, false twist temperature 180 ° C., draw ratio 1.15, yarn speed 120 m / min. And having a hollow cross-sectional portion and a non-hollow cross-sectional portion alternately in the longitudinal direction of each single filament, and the phase of the hollow cross-sectional portion and the non-hollow cross-sectional portion differing in the longitudinal direction between the single filaments A polyester multifilament crimped yarn was obtained. This processed yarn is subjected to additional twisting of S250 t / m, glued to make warp yarn, the weft yarn is used as it is, the ground structure is made into a plain structure, and the number of warps is aligned to 3, Weaving is carried out by uniformly arranging the warp portion at a ratio of 5 pieces per 1 centimeter, and through the steps of scouring, relaxing, pre-setting, alkali treatment, dyeing and final setting, a woven fabric suitable for the yukata ground of the present invention is obtained. It was. The resulting woven fabric is sewed in a soft manner, and it is a polyester woven fabric that is light and without a sense of sliminess or weight, has a natural surface feeling, a spun-like feel, and a refreshing feeling that is suitable as a yukata. Met.
[0010]
【The invention's effect】
The present invention can provide a yukata that is light and has a natural surface feeling, a spun-like touch feeling, and a refreshing feeling.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional model view of a crimped yarn used in the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1
Claims (2)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP24133398A JP4267098B2 (en) | 1998-08-27 | 1998-08-27 | Yukata |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP24133398A JP4267098B2 (en) | 1998-08-27 | 1998-08-27 | Yukata |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2000073249A JP2000073249A (en) | 2000-03-07 |
| JP4267098B2 true JP4267098B2 (en) | 2009-05-27 |
Family
ID=17072748
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP24133398A Expired - Fee Related JP4267098B2 (en) | 1998-08-27 | 1998-08-27 | Yukata |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP4267098B2 (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105256442A (en) * | 2015-10-26 | 2016-01-20 | 界首市双鑫纺织有限公司 | High-elasticity and easy-to-dye textile fabric |
-
1998
- 1998-08-27 JP JP24133398A patent/JP4267098B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP2000073249A (en) | 2000-03-07 |
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