JP4338276B2 - Polyester crimped yarn - Google Patents
Polyester crimped yarn Download PDFInfo
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- JP4338276B2 JP4338276B2 JP2000006595A JP2000006595A JP4338276B2 JP 4338276 B2 JP4338276 B2 JP 4338276B2 JP 2000006595 A JP2000006595 A JP 2000006595A JP 2000006595 A JP2000006595 A JP 2000006595A JP 4338276 B2 JP4338276 B2 JP 4338276B2
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- longitudinal direction
- crimped yarn
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- crimped
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- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims description 16
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003518 caustics Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 17
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 4
- 208000016261 weight loss Diseases 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000004580 weight loss Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 2
- 241001589086 Bellapiscis medius Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920001634 Copolyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010016322 Feeling abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010828 elution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007790 scraping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000013585 weight reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 1
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- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、糸条の長手方向に太細斑を有し、深色性、かつ軽量で嵩高性に優れ、適度な張り、腰、ドライ感を有する布帛となるポリエステル捲縮加工糸に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
糸条の長手方向に太細斑を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメントの仮撚捲縮糸としては、例えば特公昭53−27387号公報、特公昭53−36051号公報等に開示されているように、未廷伸糸を不完全廷伸して糸条の長手方向に太細斑を付与した後、仮撚加工を施して得られた糸条がある。
【0003】
しかし、これら従来技術による仮撚捲縮糸は、糸条の長手方向に太細斑を有する捲縮糸であっても、太部以外の糸条部分が単なる捲縮糸条であるため、糸条自体は嵩高性の点で満足すべきものであっても、織編物という糸が束縛された状態においては、その嵩高性の特長が生かされない場合が多い。また絹やウールなど天然繊維に比べて深色性に劣るという問題があった。
【0004】
すなわち、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を仮撚加工して得られる従来の捲縮加工糸は、加工糸自体、すなわち無緊張に近い微小張力下においては著しく嵩高性に富むが、これを織編物にすると、その嵩高性の大半が消失するという欠点があり、また深色性にも劣る。
【0005】
これに対して、圧縮空気の噴射により糸条を構成する単フィラメントにループや絡まり等を付与したタスラン加工糸は、織編物に嵩高性を付与することはできるが、単フィラメントのループ形状が仮撚捲縮加工糸の捲縮波形より大でクルノード状を呈するため、パッケージからの解舒性が不良であり、また、織編物にしたときに布帛の表面同士が引っ掛かる、いわゆるファスナー現象を起こすなどの欠点を有しており、深色性に劣るという問題も有している。
【0006】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、上記のような従来の加工糸の欠点を解消し、軽量で、かつ、嵩高性に優れ、適度な張り、腰、ドライ感を有し、深色性を有する織編物となるポリエステル捲縮加工糸を提供することを技術的な課題とするものである。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者らは、上記の課題を解決するために鋭意研究した結果、本発明に到達した。
すなわち、本発明は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを構成する単フィラメントの長手方向に太部と細部が交互に形成された捲縮加工糸であって、前記単フィラメントの表面は、長手方向に溝状の凹凸形状を呈し、しかもこの溝の幅が長手方向に変化して凹凸形状が形成されており、かつ、アルカリ減量処理後の嵩高度が200%以上であり、さらに、該捲縮加工糸は、高配向未廷伸糸(POY)をいったん高収縮熱処理してから延伸し、フィラメントに太さ斑を与えた後、引き続き延伸仮撚加工する方法により得られたものであることを特徴とするポリエステル捲縮加工糸を要旨とするものである。
【0008】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。
本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸には、糸条を構成する単フィラメントの長手方向に太部と細部が交互に形成されている。また、各単フィラメントは、仮撚による捲縮、トルク、捩じれ等のクリンプ形態を有し、さらに、その断面は、特に太部を構成する単フィラメントの変形が細部に比べ大きく、ランダムに変形している。
【0009】
すなわち、この断面変形の大きい太部は低配向であり、仮撚加工時に撚変形が加わりやすく、一方、細部は太部に比べ配向性が高く、仮撚加工での撚変形が少なく、太部に比べ断面変形が少ない形態を呈している。
このように、太部は細部に比べて仮撚での撚変形が加わりやすくて断面変形が大きく、かつ、細部に比べ糸長が長くなる。
【0010】
したがって、上述したように、1)ランダムに太部と細部を有する形態、2)太部であったところが仮撚により伸ばされて長く、糸長差を有する形態、3)太部の断面変形が大きい形態、4)捲縮、トルク、捩じれ等のクリンプを有する形態、等から糸条全体として膨らみや内部に大きな空隙ができるので嵩高性に優れ、軽量感に富んだ加工糸形態を有するものである。
【0011】
さらに、本発明の捲縮加工糸は、単フィラメントの表面が凹凸の溝状形態を呈しているので、マルチフィラメント全体としての空隙がさらに加わり、嵩高度が200%以上という嵩高性に優れたものである。嵩高度が200%以上であれば、織編物という糸が束縛された状態においても嵩高性が発揮され、嵩高な織編物を得ることができ、嵩高度が200%未満になると、嵩高な織編物を得ることができない。
【0012】
また、本発明の捲縮加工糸を構成する単フィラメントの表面は、長手方向に溝状の凹凸を有し、しかもこの溝の幅が長手方向に変動している。例えば太部の溝状部の凹凸の幅は好ましくは8μm以上と粗く、大きい。一方、細部の溝状部の凹凸の幅は好ましくは5μm以下と細かく、小さい形態を呈することから、繊維表面に光を照射した場合、その不規則に変化する溝状の凹凸形状によって光は乱反射を繰り返し、繊維内部に吸収されて外部への反射光が少なくなるという作用効果を奏する。
【0013】
通常の仮撚加工糸の場合、断面形態が単調であり、また、長手方向にもあまり変化がないので光は正反射し、白つぽく、テカリやすいのに比べ、本発明の捲縮加工糸は、太細を有し、断面及び表面がランダムで溝状の凹凸の幅が長手方向に変化しているため、光は乱反射して布帛でのテカリが解消するとともに、深みのある色を表現することが可能となる。
【0014】
また、前述したように、本発明の捲縮加工糸には、単フィラメントの表面に溝状の凹凸が形成されており、このため、繊維の表面積が大きくて曲げ剛性が高くなり、織編物に張り、腰を付与することができる。また、単フィラメントの表面に溝状の凹凸が形成されていることと、単フィラメントの長手方向に太部、細部がランダムに形成されていることで、適度なドライタッチ感が得られる。
【0015】
本発明において、ポリエステルとしては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)又はPETを主成分とする共重合ポリエステルが好ましい。
【0016】
前述したように、本発明の捲縮加工糸には、糸条を構成する単フィラメントの表面に溝状の凹凸が形成されているが、必ずしも供給糸そのものがこの形状を有している必要はなく、本発明の捲縮加工糸とした時点で、もしくは布帛にして染色加工する前にそのような表面形状になっていればよく、加工面からは、アルカリ減量加工等の後処理で表面形状を変化させるのが好ましい。
例えば、アルカリ等の溶剤で処理して単フィラメントの表面形状を変化させるには、溶解性の異なるポリマーを複合紡糸法で紡糸し、易溶性成分を除去して異形化する方法を採用することができる。
【0017】
次に、本発明の捲縮加工糸を図面を用いて説明する。
図1は、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸の一実施態様を示す断面図であり、仮撚加工して得られた糸条をアルカリ処理により易溶性成分を除去した後の加工糸横断面モデル図である。図中aは単フィラメントの太部であり、溝状の幅が大きい形状を呈し、かつ、断面変形の大きい形態が混在しており、またbは単フィラメントの細部であり、幾分断面変形が少なく、かつ溝状の幅が小さい形状を呈している。
本発明の捲縮加工糸は、図1のように、任意の横断面部においてaとbの部分及びこの中間的な部分が混在した形態を有している。
【0018】
次に、図2は、本発明の捲縮加工糸の側面形態を示すモデル図である。各単フィラメントは糸条の長手方向に仮撚捲縮を有しており、また、単フィラメントの長手方向に太部aと細部bを任意の長さで交互に有する形態を呈している。
【0019】
次に、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸の製法例について説明する。
本発明の捲縮加工糸は、仮撚加工への供給糸が特殊形態を呈しており、仮撚加工において通常の条件を採用すると、殆どのフィラメントで太部が消失してしまうので、特殊な仮撚条件を採用することが必要である。
【0020】
例えば、好ましく用いられる方法として、高配向未廷伸糸(POY)をいったん高収縮熱処理してから延伸しフィラメントに太さ斑を与えた後、引き続き延伸仮撚加工する方法が挙げられるが、特に、通常残留伸度の0.8〜0.9倍の延伸倍率で仮撚加工を施すところを、0.6〜0.7倍の延伸倍率で実施する方法を採用するのが好ましい。
【0021】
ここで、本発明における嵩高度の測定方法は、次のとおりである。
まず、糸条50cmを0.1CN/dtexの荷重下で検撚機にセットする。次いで、0.1CN/dtexの荷重下に、撚方向Z、撚数1500/DT1/2(T/M)で追撚し、得られた追撚糸をスライドグラスに試料長5cmに貼る。次に、5mm間隔の目盛りのついたフィルムをスライドガラスに貼って試料を10等分し、顕微鏡下で目盛りと試料の交差部の糸直径を測る。この10個所の実測糸直径の平均値をBとする。
次に、理論直径Αを算出する。この理論直径とは、糸条を円柱形のモノフィラメントとして計算した場合の糸の直径をいい、Α=9.6054DT1/2 (μm)で計算する。そして、嵩高度(%)を次式で算出する。なお、DTは繊度(デシテックス)である。
嵩高度(%)=(B/A)×100
【0022】
【実施例】
次に、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。
実施例1〜2、比較例1〜2
難溶出成分としてPETを、易溶出成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を2.5モル%と平均分子量が700のポリエチレングリコールを12重量%共重合したPETを用い、単フィラメントの断面形状がギヤー形状のアルカリ難溶出成分をアルカリ易溶出成分で被覆した芯鞘構造糸になるように設計した紡糸口金と複合紡糸装置を用いて紡糸した。
【0023】
得られたPOY85dtex/24fと165dtex/48fを用い、フィードローラ、第1ヒータ、第1デリベリローラ、第2デリベリローラ、仮撚ヒータ、仮撚施撚体、第3デリベリローラ、捲取装置を順次備えた仮撚機にて、収縮熱処理、室温延伸、仮撚加工を行った。
得られた捲縮加工糸を経糸と緯糸に用い、2/2ツイル組織で製織した。また、福原社製XL−PL2(20G×26″)の編機を用い、モックミラノリブ組織で製編した。
【0024】
次いで、得られた織物と編物を、通常のポリエステル加工糸と同じ方法(生機→精錬・溶出→アルカリ減量→高圧染色→フアイナルセット)で染色仕上加工した。
この時の糸加工条件と、得られた捲縮加工糸の物性及び布帛の評価を表1に示す。
【0025】
【表1】
【0026】
まず、実施例1、2で得られた捲縮加工糸は、糸条の長手方向に太部と細部がランダムに形成され、図2に示すような仮撚捲縮を有する糸条であった。また、断面形態は、図1に示すように太部の変形が大きく、また、その変形がランダムであり、細部の変形は幾分小さいものであった。そして、ランダムな太細とギヤー形状からの特殊な凹凸形状、さらには捲縮が調和した新規な糸条形態を有するものであった。
また、表1から明らかなように、実施例1、2で得られた布帛はいずれも軽量、かつ嵩高性に優れ、適度なドライ感を有し、自然な杢外観を呈するものであった。
【0027】
一方、丸断面糸をそのまま仮撚加工した比較例1で得られた加工糸には、太部や単フィラメント表面の凹凸形状等が存在せず、捲縮の位相が揃った通常の仮撚加工糸で、アルカリ減量処理後の嵩高度も200%未満であり、このため、得られた布帛は、嵩高性、ドライ感、深色性に乏しいものであった。
また、丸断面糸を供給糸とした比較例2で得られた加工糸は、太部と細部を有していたが、単フィラメントの表面に凹凸形状や微細孔が存在せず、アルカリ減量処理後の嵩高度も200%未満であり、このため、得られた布帛は、ヌメリ感やソフト感が強く、張り、腰、ドライ感に乏しいものであった。
【0028】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、製編織することにより、深色性、かつ、軽量、嵩高性に優れ、適度の張り、腰、ドライ感を有する布帛を得ることができるポリエステル捲縮加工糸が提供される。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸の一実施態様を示す横断面モデル図である。
【図2】本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸の一実施態様を示す側面モデル図である。
【符号の説明】
a 太部
b 細部[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyester crimped yarn having a thick and thin patch in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, deep color, light weight, excellent bulkiness, and suitable for tension, waist and dryness. is there.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Examples of polyester multifilament false twisted crimped yarns having thick spots in the longitudinal direction of the yarn are disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication Nos. 53-27387 and 53-36051. There is a yarn obtained by incompletely stretching the drawn yarn to give thick spots in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and then performing false twisting.
[0003]
However, even if these false twisted yarns according to the prior art are crimped yarns having thick spots in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the yarn portion other than the thick portion is simply a crimped yarn. Even if the strip itself is satisfactory in terms of bulkiness, the bulkiness of the yarn is often not utilized in a state where the yarn of woven or knitted fabric is bound. In addition, there is a problem that the deep color is inferior to natural fibers such as silk and wool.
[0004]
That is, the conventional crimped yarn obtained by false twisting the polyester multifilament yarn is extremely bulky under the processed yarn itself, that is, under a microtension close to no tension, but when this is made into a woven or knitted fabric, There is a drawback that most of the bulkiness disappears, and the deep color is also inferior.
[0005]
On the other hand, Taslan processed yarn in which loops and entanglements are imparted to the single filaments constituting the yarn by jetting compressed air can impart bulkiness to the woven or knitted fabric, but the loop shape of the single filaments is temporary. Because it exhibits a knurled shape that is larger than the crimped waveform of the twisted crimped yarn, the unwinding property from the package is poor, and when the woven or knitted fabric is formed, the surfaces of the fabric are caught with each other, causing a so-called fastener phenomenon, etc. There is also a problem that it is inferior in deep color.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention eliminates the disadvantages of the conventional processed yarn as described above, is lightweight, excellent in bulkiness, moderate tension, waist, dry feeling, and becomes a woven or knitted fabric having deep color. It is a technical problem to provide crimped yarn.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have reached the present invention.
That is, the present invention is a crimped yarn in which thick portions and details are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of a single filament constituting a polyester multifilament, and the surface of the single filament has groove-like irregularities in the longitudinal direction. a shape, yet have irregularities formed width of the groove is changed in the longitudinal direction, and state, and are bulky rate after caustic treatment is 200% or more, further該捲shrinkage yarn is stretching highly oriented non廷伸yarn (POY) once after high shrinkage heat treatment, after giving the thickness unevenness in filament subsequently characterized der Rukoto those obtained by a method of stretching false twisting A polyester crimped yarn is used as a gist.
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention, thick portions and details are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of the single filament constituting the yarn. In addition, each single filament has a crimp form such as crimping due to false twisting, torque, twisting, etc., and the cross-section of the single filament, especially the thick part constituting the thick part, is larger than the details and deforms randomly. ing.
[0009]
That is, the thick part having a large cross-sectional deformation has a low orientation and is easily subjected to twisting deformation during false twisting, while the details have higher orientation than the thick part, and the twisting deformation in false twisting is less and the thick part. It has a form with less cross-sectional deformation than.
As described above, the thick portion is more likely to be subjected to false deformation by false twisting than the details, the cross-sectional deformation is large, and the yarn length is longer than the details.
[0010]
Therefore, as described above, 1) a form having thick parts and details at random, 2) a place where the thick part is stretched by false twisting is long and has a yarn length difference, and 3) a cross-sectional deformation of the thick part. Large form, 4) Form with crimps such as crimp, torque, twist, etc. Since the whole yarn swells and has large voids inside, it has excellent bulkiness and lightweight processed yarn form. is there.
[0011]
In addition, the crimped yarn of the present invention has a single-filament surface with a concave-convex groove shape, which further adds voids as a whole multifilament and has a high bulkiness of 200% or more. It is. When the bulk height is 200% or more, the bulkiness is exhibited even in a state where the yarn called the woven or knitted fabric is bound, and a bulky woven or knitted fabric can be obtained. When the bulk height is less than 200%, the bulky woven or knitted fabric is obtained. Can't get.
[0012]
Further, the surface of the single filament constituting the crimped yarn of the present invention has groove-like irregularities in the longitudinal direction, and the width of the groove varies in the longitudinal direction. For example, the width of the uneven portion of the thick groove-like portion is preferably as coarse and large as 8 μm or more. On the other hand, the width of the concave and convex portions of the fine groove portions is preferably as fine as 5 μm or less and exhibits a small form. Therefore, when light is irradiated on the fiber surface, the irregular reflection of the groove-like concave and convex shapes causes the light to be irregularly reflected. Is repeated, and there is an effect that the reflected light is reduced by being absorbed inside the fiber.
[0013]
In the case of a normal false twisted yarn, the cross-sectional shape is monotonous, and since there is not much change in the longitudinal direction, the light is regularly reflected, and the crimped yarn according to the present invention is brighter than white. Is thick and thin, the cross-section and surface are random, and the width of the groove-like unevenness changes in the longitudinal direction, so light is diffusely reflected to eliminate shine on the fabric and express a deep color It becomes possible to do.
[0014]
In addition, as described above, the crimped yarn of the present invention has groove-like irregularities formed on the surface of the single filament, which increases the surface area of the fiber and increases the bending rigidity. Can give tension and waist. Moreover, an appropriate dry touch feeling can be obtained by forming groove-shaped irregularities on the surface of the single filament and forming thick portions and details at random in the longitudinal direction of the single filament.
[0015]
In the present invention, the polyester is preferably polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or a copolyester having PET as a main component.
[0016]
As described above, the crimped yarn of the present invention has groove-like irregularities formed on the surface of the single filament constituting the yarn, but the supply yarn itself is not necessarily required to have this shape. However, it is sufficient that the crimped yarn of the present invention has such a surface shape before being dyed or processed into a fabric. From the processed surface, the surface shape is obtained by post-treatment such as alkali weight loss processing. Is preferably changed.
For example, in order to change the surface shape of a single filament by treatment with a solvent such as an alkali, it is possible to employ a method in which polymers having different solubilities are spun by a composite spinning method, and the easily soluble components are removed to form a different shape. it can.
[0017]
Next, the crimped yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing one embodiment of a polyester crimped yarn of the present invention, and a processed yarn cross-sectional model after removing a readily soluble component by alkali treatment of a yarn obtained by false twisting. FIG. In the figure, a is a thick part of a single filament, has a groove-like shape with a large width, and has a shape with a large cross-sectional deformation, and b is a detail of the single filament, and the cross-sectional deformation is somewhat The shape is small and the groove width is small.
As shown in FIG. 1, the crimped yarn of the present invention has a form in which a and b portions and an intermediate portion are mixed in an arbitrary cross section.
[0018]
Next, FIG. 2 is a model diagram showing a side view of the crimped yarn of the present invention. Each single filament has a false twist crimp in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and has a form in which thick portions a and details b are alternately alternated in an arbitrary length in the longitudinal direction of the single filament.
[0019]
Next, an example of producing the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention will be described.
In the crimped yarn of the present invention, the supply yarn for false twisting has a special form, and if normal conditions are adopted in false twisting, the thick part disappears in most filaments. It is necessary to adopt false twisting conditions.
[0020]
For example, as a method that is preferably used, there is a method in which a highly oriented unspoken yarn (POY) is once subjected to a high shrinkage heat treatment and then stretched to give a thick spot on the filament, followed by stretch false twisting. In general, it is preferable to employ a method in which false twisting is performed at a draw ratio of 0.6 to 0.7 times where the false twisting is usually performed at a draw ratio of 0.8 to 0.9 times the residual elongation.
[0021]
Here, the measuring method of the bulk height in the present invention is as follows.
First, a 50 cm yarn is set on a twisting machine under a load of 0.1 CN / dtex. Then, under a load of 0.1 CN / dtex, the yarn is additionally twisted in the twisting direction Z and the number of twists of 1500 / DT 1/2 (T / M), and the obtained additional yarn is stuck on a slide glass with a sample length of 5 cm. Next, a film with a scale of 5 mm interval is stuck on a slide glass to divide the sample into 10 equal parts, and the yarn diameter at the intersection of the scale and the sample is measured under a microscope. Let B be the average value of the measured yarn diameters at these 10 locations.
Next, the theoretical diameter Α is calculated. This theoretical diameter is the diameter of the yarn when the yarn is calculated as a cylindrical monofilament, and is calculated as Α = 9.6054 DT 1/2 (μm). Then, the bulk height (%) is calculated by the following equation. In addition, DT is a fineness (decitex).
Bulk height (%) = (B / A) × 100
[0022]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples.
Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2
PET is used as the hard-to-elute component, PET is used as the easily-eluting component, and 12% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 700 and 2.5 mol% of 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid is copolymerized. Spinning was carried out using a spinneret and a composite spinning device designed to be a core-sheath structured yarn in which the alkali-eluting component of this was coated with the alkali-eluting component.
[0023]
Using the obtained POY85dtex / 24f and 165dtex / 48f, a temporary provisional feed equipped with a feed roller, a first heater, a first delivery roller, a second delivery roller, a false twisting heater, a false twisting body, a third delivery roller, and a scraping device in that order. Shrinkage heat treatment, room temperature stretching, and false twisting were performed with a twister.
The obtained crimped yarn was used for warp and weft and woven with a 2/2 twill structure. Further, using a knitting machine of XL-PL2 (20G × 26 ″) manufactured by Fukuharasha, knitting was performed with a mock Milan rib structure.
[0024]
Subsequently, the obtained woven fabric and knitted fabric were dyed and finished by the same method as ordinary polyester processed yarn (raw machine → refining / elution → alkali weight loss → high pressure dyeing → final set).
Table 1 shows the yarn processing conditions at this time, the physical properties of the crimped yarn obtained, and the evaluation of the fabric.
[0025]
[Table 1]
[0026]
First, the crimped yarns obtained in Examples 1 and 2 were yarns having thick portions and details randomly formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and having false twist crimps as shown in FIG. . Further, as shown in FIG. 1, the cross-sectional form was large in deformation at the thick part, random in the deformation, and somewhat small in detail. And, it had a new thread form in which random thick and thin, special uneven shape from gear shape, and further crimping were harmonized.
Further, as is clear from Table 1, the fabrics obtained in Examples 1 and 2 were both lightweight and excellent in bulkiness, had an appropriate dry feeling, and exhibited a natural wrinkle appearance.
[0027]
On the other hand, the processed yarn obtained in Comparative Example 1 obtained by subjecting the round cross-section yarn as it is does not have a thick portion or an uneven shape on the surface of the single filament, and the normal false twist processing in which the crimp phases are aligned. In the yarn, the bulk height after the alkali weight loss treatment was less than 200%. Therefore, the obtained fabric was poor in bulkiness, dryness and deep color.
In addition, the processed yarn obtained in Comparative Example 2 using a round cross-section yarn as a supply yarn had thick portions and details, but there was no uneven shape or micropores on the surface of the single filament, and alkali weight reduction treatment The subsequent bulk height was less than 200%, and thus the obtained fabric had a strong slime feeling and soft feeling and was poor in tension, waist and dry feeling.
[0028]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, there is provided a polyester crimped yarn capable of obtaining a fabric having excellent deep color, light weight, and bulkiness, and having appropriate tension, waist and dry feeling by knitting and weaving. .
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional model view showing one embodiment of a polyester crimped yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a side model diagram showing one embodiment of a polyester crimped yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
a Thick part b Detail
Claims (1)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000006595A JP4338276B2 (en) | 2000-01-14 | 2000-01-14 | Polyester crimped yarn |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000006595A JP4338276B2 (en) | 2000-01-14 | 2000-01-14 | Polyester crimped yarn |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2001200435A JP2001200435A (en) | 2001-07-27 |
| JP4338276B2 true JP4338276B2 (en) | 2009-10-07 |
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|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000006595A Expired - Fee Related JP4338276B2 (en) | 2000-01-14 | 2000-01-14 | Polyester crimped yarn |
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| Country | Link |
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| JP (1) | JP4338276B2 (en) |
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| JP2001200435A (en) | 2001-07-27 |
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