JP4363235B2 - Lining fabric using cellulose fatty acid ester fiber - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using at least a part of cellulose fatty acid ester fiber, and particularly relates to a woven fabric for lining.

  Conventionally, a woven or knitted fabric made of 100% polyester fiber is less expensive than a woven or knitted fabric made of 100% regenerated cellulose, has excellent strength, has excellent dimensional stability by washing, and has a characteristic that changes little in appearance. It is widely used as a representative material for clothing. In addition, it has been desired to improve the wearing comfort by imparting stretch properties to polyester fibers with a recent stretch boom, but when wearing clothing using a lining made of 100% polyester fibers, Occurrence of this causes discomfort to the wearer, such as clinging to the human body and peeling off when sweating, and was considered to be extremely problematic in practice.

On the other hand, cellulosic fibers are often used mainly in inner and outer clothing because, for example, when clothing is applied to clothing, the clothing has high sweat-absorbing properties, a low electrostatic charge voltage, and a soft texture. However, when wet such as when washing or sweating, there are practical problems such as easy shrinkage and wrinkling, low strength and fastness, poor durability, high water absorption and difficulty in drying. In order to improve such a defect, generally, a method of applying a heat condensation type resin to a fabric is employed. However, such resin processing hardens the fabric and makes its texture remarkably poor. Therefore, many composite fibers with synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers with excellent dimensional stability have been proposed. For example, polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers having stretch properties and cellulose filament fibers are used together (patents) Document 1), a lining using polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers (Patent Document 2), and a technique of knitting knitting between polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers and cellulose fibers (Patent Document 3) have been proposed. However, although comfort at the time of wearing is improved, no significant improvement has been observed in the occurrence of shrinkage and wrinkles during washing, appearance change and strength reduction due to repeated wearing and washing.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-1835 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-12824 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-12902

In view of the background of the prior art, the present invention is superior in dimensional stability at the time of washing, which is not found in a woven or knitted fabric made of conventional polyester fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, and does not have a decrease in strength when wet. It is intended to provide an excellent fabric .

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention employs the following means. That is,
(1) At least two types of cellulose fatty acid ester-based multifilaments having at least one acyl group having 3 to 18 carbon atoms, a polyester-based component mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate , and a polyester-based component mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate Ri fabric der comprising a polyester polymer using at least a portion of the multi-filament composite fibers bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction, said textile is the cellulose fatty acid ester-based multifilament A woven fabric for lining using a cellulose fatty acid ester fiber, characterized in that it is a cross woven fabric using warp and multifilaments of the composite fiber as weft .
(2) The above-mentioned ( 1), wherein the cross-woven fabric has an elongation rate in the weft direction of at least 15%, an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more, and the sum of the cover factors of warps and wefts is 1000 to 2000. Lining fabric using the cellulose fatty acid ester fiber described in 1.
(3) The cellulose fatty acid ester fiber as described in (1) or (2) above, wherein the moisture absorption rate at 20 ° C. and 65% RH of the cellulose fatty acid ester fiber is 0.5% to 2.0%. Lining fabric using fibers.

According to the present invention, excellent traditional dimensional stability during polyester fiber and not in the woven or knitted fabric made of regenerated cellulose fibers laundry, no strength reduction in the wet state, can provide excellent fabric wear comfort .

The present invention is earnest about the above-mentioned problem, that is, a cross-woven fabric that has a wearing comfort that is not found in woven or knitted fabrics using conventional polyester fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, and is excellent in quick drying and dimensional stability during washing. The present inventors have studied and investigated that this problem can be solved at once by making a woven fabric using at least a part of a polyester fiber containing cellulose fatty acid ester fiber and polytrimethylene terephthalate.

  The cellulose fatty acid ester fiber in the present invention preferably has a moisture absorption rate of 0.5% to 2.0% at 20 ° C. and 65% RH from the viewpoint of dimensional stability when wet and comfort when worn. More preferably, it is 0.0% to 1.8%. This range is preferable because the fiber contains appropriate moisture and is excellent in quick drying.

  Moreover, in order that the moisture absorption rate of the cellulose fatty acid ester of the present invention is in the range of 0.5% to 2.0%, it is preferable that at least part of the carbon number of the acyl group is 3 to 18 carbon atoms, More preferably, the substitution degree derived from an acyl group having 3 to 18 carbon atoms is 1.3 to 2.9, and the total substitution degree of the cellulose fatty acid ester is 2.4 to 3.0. It is even more preferable that the substitution degree derived from 3 to 18 acyl groups is 1.5 to 2.9, and the total substitution degree of the cellulose fatty acid ester is 2.6 to 3.0.

  The degree of substitution here is an average of the number of three hydroxyl groups contained in the repeating unit of cellulose substituted with an acyl group, and the upper limit of the degree of substitution is 3.0.

  Examples of the cellulose fatty acid ester in which at least a part of the acyl group has 3 to 18 carbon atoms include cellulose acetate propionate, cellulose propionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose butyrate, cellulose acetate laurate, cellulose laurate, and cellulose. Cellulose ester derivatives obtained by esterification of anhydrous fatty acids to cellulose, such as acetate oleate, cellulose oleate, cellulose acetate palmitate, cellulose palmitate, cellulose acetate valerate, and cellulose valerate, and blends and modified products thereof However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, phthalic acid esters, aliphatic dibasic acid esters, glycerin derivatives, diglycerin derivatives, polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol having both ends blocked, and polyethylene glycol, etc., can be used alone or in combination as a plasticizer for cellulose fatty acid esters. There is no problem. Furthermore, within the range that does not impair the required performance as required, as a stabilizer for preventing thermal deterioration and coloring, weak organic acids, phosphates, thiophosphates, etc. may be used alone or in combination. It may be added. In addition, additives such as lubricants, antistatic agents, dyes, pigments, lubricants, matting agents, and deodorants may be blended.

  The fiber made of these cellulose fatty acid esters of the present invention may have a round cross section or a flat, three to eight leaf, C-shaped, H-shaped, hollow, or other irregular shape, or a core comprising at least one component of cellulose fatty acid ester. A composite fiber of a type that elutes one component such as a sheath type, an eccentric core-sheath type, a side-by-side type, a split fiber split type, or a sea-island type may be used. Besides normal flat yarn, it may be a filament yarn such as false twisted yarn, strong twisted yarn, Taslan processed yarn, thick thin yarn, mixed yarn, etc., and various forms such as staple fiber, tow, spun yarn, etc. It may be a fiber.

  The range of the single yarn fineness of the cellulose fatty acid ester fiber of the present invention is preferably from 0.8 to 15 dtex because the disperse dye has excellent leveling property within the fiber and color development of the woven or knitted fabric, and the firmness and stiffness of the fabric. From the viewpoint of fabric texture, a range of 1.0 to 10 dtex is more preferable.

  The polyester-based fiber containing polytrimethylene terephthalate in the present invention may be combined with other polymers on polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the composite rate is not particularly limited, but the polyester component mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate A composite ratio of 30 to 70% by weight is preferable from the viewpoints of stretchability and tension, and a soft feeling. If the composite ratio is less than 30% by weight, the stretch property may be insufficient. If it exceeds 70% by weight, the stretch property is satisfactory, but the texture and the waist are insufficient. Tend. The composite method is a method in which other polyester-based fibers are combined with polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber by high-order processing such as twisting and composite processing yarn, etc. are included in the present invention, and most preferably composite by composite spinning, For example, a composite in which two polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester component mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the other is a polyester component mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, are bonded side by side along the fiber length direction. It is preferable because the multifilament of the fiber is uniform and a large stretch property is obtained. In such a composite fiber, it is more preferable that the cross-sectional shape of the fiber of the composite fiber is flat because the expression of crimps of the single yarn becomes extremely uniform. In this case, the composite ratio is preferably 30 to 70% by weight.

The woven fabric of the present invention is a cross woven fabric in which the cellulose fatty acid ester fiber and / or the polyester fiber containing the polytrimethylene terephthalate is a long fiber, and the polyester fiber containing the polytrimethylene terephthalate is used as a weft. Are preferably used. The cross fabric preferably has at least a 15% elongation in the weft direction and an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more. In a lining used for outerwear or the like that requires a particularly high stretch, 15 to 30% is preferable, and 15 to 20% is preferable as long as it provides a comfortable wearing feeling when worn. If the elongation rate is less than 15%, the stretchability is insufficient in any application, and wrinkle recovery due to washing may be insufficient. Further, if the elongation rate exceeds 30%, the elongation recovery rate is low, the resilience is poor, and the appearance quality may be lowered.

The sum of the cover factors of the warp and weft of the cross fabric is preferably 1000 to 2000. If the sum of the cover factors is less than 1000, the resulting fabric structure tends to be misaligned, which tends to cause misalignment of seams when worn. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2000, the texture becomes coarse and hard, which may be insufficient for use as a backing. The cover factor (K) is obtained by the following formula.

[Cover factor]
K = d ^1/2 × D
(D: density (2.54 centimeters), d: decitex)
Moreover, as an index of the wearing comfort of the cross fabric, the moisture absorption / release rate (ΔMR) is obtained.

[Moisture absorption / release rate (ΔMR)]
ΔMR (%) = MR ₂ −MR ₁
Here, MR ₁ is the moisture absorption rate (%) when left in an atmosphere of 20 ° C. and 65% RH for 24 hours from an absolutely dry state, and is in a state of being in a clothing dance, that is, before wearing. Equivalent to. MR ₂ is a moisture absorption rate (%) when left in an atmosphere of 30 ° C. and 90% RH for 24 hours from an absolutely dry state, and substantially corresponds to the environment in clothes in an exercise state. ΔMR is expressed by a value obtained by subtracting the value of MR ₁ from MR ₂ , and corresponds to how much moisture in the clothes is absorbed when exercising after wearing clothes. Higher is more comfortable. Generally, the ΔMR of polyester is 0%, 2% for nylon, 4% for cotton, and 6% for wool.

As described above, the woven fabric is a woven or knitted fabric using at least a part of a polyester-based fiber containing a cellulose fatty acid ester-based fiber and polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the cellulose fatty acid ester-based fiber and / or the polytrimethylene The polyester fiber containing terephthalate is a long fiber, and the polyester fiber containing the polytrimethylene terephthalate can be woven into wefts. Ordinary methods can be used as the weaving method, and any loom of the fly shuttle type, air jet type, water jet type, rapier type, or sulzer type may be used as the loom, but it is efficient. The air jet type and the water jet type are preferable because weaving can be performed. Although the woven structure is not particularly limited, a plain weave, twill, satin or double woven structure is preferable from the viewpoint of obtaining the effect of the invention.

  As the equipment used for dyeing processing, cheese dyeing machines for dyeing in the state of fibers, liquid dyeing machines for dyeing in the state of fabrics, wins, zickers, beam dyeing machines, drum dyeing machines for garment dyeing are usually used. A known dyeing machine may be used without particular limitation.

  Moreover, as a dye used for dyeing, a known disperse dye for acetate and a disperse dye for polyester which are generally used can be arbitrarily used.

  Furthermore, it may be a cross-woven fabric formed by coating a finishing agent or a known resin with flame retardant, antibacterial / deodorant, water repellent / antifouling agent, etc. added to improve color development and impart other functions after dyeing. .

The use of the fabric of the present invention is suitable for sports lining such as athletic, outdoor, skiing, uniform lining related to food industry and civil engineering industry, and lining for ladies and gentlemen in coats and outerwear.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention further in detail, this invention is not limited to these Examples. In the examples, “%” and “part” are based on weight unless otherwise specified.
<Evaluation method>
Quality evaluation in the examples was performed according to the following method.
(1) Elongation rate and elongation recovery rate According to JIS L 1096, the elongation rate of the unwoven fabric was measured by the B method, and the elongation recovery rate was measured by the B-1 method. The elongation recovery rate is an index of fabric resilience.
(2) Friction voltage According to JIS L 1094B method. The measurement was performed at 20 ° C. × 40% RH.

In addition, evaluation used the test cloth after 10 times washing according to JIS-L1042.
(3) Moisture absorption / release rate (△ MR)
ΔMR (%) = MR ₂ −MR ₁
MR ₂ : Moisture absorption rate (%) when left in an absolutely dry state in an atmosphere of 20 ° C x 65% RH for 24 hours
MR ₁ : Moisture absorption rate (%) when left in an atmosphere of 30 ° C x 90% RH for 24 hours
(4) Washing shrinkage rate According to JIS-L0217 method.
(5) Tear strength when wet According to JIS-L1096D method, a test cloth wetted with water and made 100% wet is used.
(6) Wear comfort Evaluation was made according to the following criteria.

Elongation rate ○: 15% or more
Δ: 5 to 15%
×: 5% or less Friction voltage ○: 3000V or less
Δ: 3000-5000V
×: 5000 V or more Moisture absorption / release rate ○: 2.0% or more
Δ: 0.5 to 2.0%
X: 0.5% or less (7) Dimensional stability Evaluation was made according to the following criteria.

Washing shrinkage rate ○: 3.0% or less
Δ: 3.0-5.0%
×: 5.0% or more Example 1
Cellulose acetate propionate long fibers (56 dtex 18 filaments) containing 18% by weight polyethylene glycol as a plasticizer in the warp, and latent crimped polyester long fibers (56 dtex 24 filaments) in which the wefts are polyester and polytrimethylene terephthalate arranged side by side The plain woven fabric (warp density 127 / 2.54 cm, weft density 95 / 2.54 cm) obtained by using was scoured, dyed and finished by a conventional method. The woven fabrics shown in Table 1 (warp density 150 / 2.54 cm, weft density 103 / 2.54 cm) were obtained. The sum of the cover factors of the obtained woven fabric was 1893.

Comparative Example 1
Plain woven fabric (warp density 127 / 2.54 cm, obtained by using polyester continuous fiber (56 dtex 18 filament) for warp and latent crimpable polyester continuous fiber (56 dtex 24 filament) with polyester and polytrimethylene terephthalate arranged side-by-side for weft A weft density of 95 / 2.54 cm) was scoured, dyed and finished in a conventional manner. The woven fabrics shown in Table 1 (warp density 150 / 2.54 cm, weft density 103 / 2.54 cm) were obtained. The sum of the cover factors of the obtained woven fabric was 1893.

Comparative Example 2
Plain woven fabric (warp density 127 / 2.54) obtained by using regenerated cellulosic long fibers (56 dtex 18 filaments) for warps and latent crimpable polyester long fibers (56 dtex 24 filaments) with polyester and polytrimethylene terephthalate arranged side by side on wefts Centimeters and weft density of 95 / 2.54 centimeters) were scoured, dyed and finished in a conventional manner. The woven fabrics shown in Table 1 (warp density 150 / 2.54 cm, weft density 103 / 2.54 cm) were obtained. The sum of the cover factors of the obtained woven fabric was 1893.

Claims (3)

At least two types of polyester-based weights , ie, a cellulose fatty acid ester multifilament having at least one acyl group having 3 to 18 carbon atoms, a polyester-based component mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate , and a polyester-based component mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate. coalescing Ri fabrics der made using at least a portion of the multi-filament composite fibers bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction, said textile uses the cellulose fatty acid ester-based multifilament warp A woven fabric for lining using cellulose fatty acid ester fibers, characterized in that it is a cross woven fabric using multifilaments of the composite fibers as wefts . 2. The cellulose according to claim 1 , wherein an elongation rate in the weft direction of the interwoven fabric is at least 15%, an elongation recovery rate is 80% or more, and a sum of cover factors of warps and wefts is 1000 to 2000. Lining fabric using fatty acid ester fiber. The moisture absorption rate of the cellulose fatty acid ester fiber at 20 ° C. and 65% RH is 0.5% to 2.0%, for lining using the cellulose fatty acid ester fiber according to claim 1 or 2 Textile .