JP4480460B2 - Lining and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a lining using a polyester yarn, and more particularly to a lining using a polyester multifilament yarn suitable for a uniform and having no seam deviation and excellent wearing feeling.

  Conventionally, it is desired that the lining is soft and supple, has good followability to the outer material, and has an excellent wearing feeling after being sewn with the outer material to make a garment. Moreover, since it does not appear on the appearance when it is used as a garment, the actual situation is that it is desired to obtain a product of a certain quality or more as cheap as possible.

  Polyester is used as an excellent backing material because it is inexpensive and has excellent properties such as texture, mechanical properties, and dimensional stability. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a stretch lining having a woven fabric elongation of 10% or more using a PTT side-by-side composite fiber that is substantially untwisted raw yarn.

In particular, in the case of polyester, in order to make a soft lining, the woven fabric is often reduced by a high rate to make it a fine denier (for example, see Patent Document 2), and there is a gap between the warp and the weft. Cheap. Due to this gap, for example, when a person wearing a skirt sits down, the lining of the buttock portion is pulled in the weft direction, and seam misalignment is likely to occur. In order to prevent such a seam shift, Patent Document 3 discloses a lining having excellent seam slip resistance by increasing the weft direction of the fabric.
JP 2001-316923 A JP-A-2-191702 Japanese Patent No. 3338029

  However, the lining made of regular regular polyester yarn, which has a low degree of elongation in the past, has a good seam slip resistance when washed with water or using a softener, even if it shows good seam slip resistance. The sliding resistance is remarkably deteriorated and the wearing feeling is inferior.

  Moreover, although the lining disclosed in Patent Document 1 is excellent in stretchability and wearability, it is a side-by-side yarn that uses two types of polymers having different shrinkage rates, so that the cost of the raw yarn increases. In addition, since the low shrinkage polymer has a low viscosity, the strength is extremely weak. As a result, the yarn strength is weaker than that of the regular yarn, the tear strength as a woven fabric is reduced, and the lining is used as a backing for a uniform, etc. It is difficult to obtain the necessary and sufficient strength.

The lining disclosed in Patent Document 3 needs to be extremely widened in the weft direction in order to increase the elongation in the weft direction. For this reason, although the raw machine set is implemented in patent document 3, a sizing glue adheres to a textile fabric by this live machine set, and glue becomes difficult to fall off. Therefore, normal scouring is not sufficient, which causes high costs.
In addition, in the production of normal lining, the preparation process is performed continuously with scouring-setting-weight reduction, but before these normal preparation processes, a process of passing through a setter is required separately, and the manufacturing cost is reduced. Get higher.
Further, since the warp yarn is pulled in the warp direction and greatly inserted in the weft direction, the weft yarn becomes a swelled lining around the warp yarn, resulting in a rough hand in the warp direction.

  Therefore, the present invention solves the above-described problems, provides a low-cost lining that is easy to touch in the warp and weft directions, is supple, and has excellent resistance to seam slip even after washing with a softener. Objective.

  According to the present invention, the polyester multifilament constituting the lining has a large single yarn void ratio, and by providing a constant void between each single yarn, it has excellent seam slippage without increasing the fabric elongation so much. Lining can be obtained. For this reason, it is preferable to use a specific multifilament, and an excellent wear feeling can be provided at a low cost.

That is, the present invention is a lining made of a woven fabric containing a polyester multifilament made of polyethylene terephthalate having a cross-sectional shape of a fiber that is at least one of a warp and a weft, and the multifilament yarn is a single yarn gap The gist of the lining is that the rate is 23 % or more, the filament single yarns are laminated in random directions, and the elongation of the woven fabric in the direction including the polyester multifilaments is 3.8 to 4.5 %.
The lining preferably has a ratio of the warp elongation to the weft elongation of the woven fabric of 1: 3.5 to 3.5: 1, and the cross-sectional shape of the multifilament fiber is an M-type or Y-type cross section. It is preferable that When the fiber cross-sectional shape is an M cross section, the opening angle is 100 ° to 150 °, the gap ratio is 20% to 50%, and the aspect ratio (minor axis / major axis) is 1/2 to 1/4. Is preferred. In particular, in the case of a weft stretch lining, a polyester multifilament is used for the weft, and the woven fabric has a warp elongation of 1.2 to 4% and a weft elongation of 3 to 5%.
Further, the present invention uses a polyester multifilament having a fiber cross-sectional shape of an M-shaped cross section and a single yarn void ratio of 20% or more as at least one of warp and weft yarns, and a woven fabric of raw machinery CF1200 to 1800. After weaving, scouring, pre-setting, dyeing, and then reducing the weight by 0 to 15%, the ratio of the raw yarn CF in the direction using the multifilament to the CF after finishing (finished CF / green machine) CF) is set to 1.05 to 1.15, and is also a method for producing a lining for producing the lining described above .

  According to the configuration of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a lining having good seam slip resistance even after washing while maintaining a supple texture without going through a special process for obtaining a particularly large fabric elongation.

The lining of the present invention is a woven fabric having a woven structure used for lining such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave and the like. The plain weave and twill weave structures are preferred from the standpoint that production costs, lightness as a backing, and thinness can be easily obtained.
Further, the backing of the present invention contains a specific polyester multifilament in at least one of warp and weft. For example, in the case of a garment that is pulled in the weft direction, such as a tight skirt, the weft yarn preferably contains this polyester multifilament. Further, in the case of clothes that are often pulled in the warp direction such as an outer jacket, it is preferable that the warp contains this multifilament. Whether the multifilament is used for a warp of a woven fabric, a weft, a warp and a weft, a part of the multifilament, or all of the warp may be appropriately determined according to the use.

Regarding the elongation of the woven fabric, it is necessary that the elongation in at least one direction of the woven fabric is 3% or more in order to obtain a good seam slip resistance. In general, the greater the elongation, the better the resistance to seam slipping. However, in order to obtain an inexpensive lining, the upper limit of the elongation in the above direction is at most about 5%.
That is, when the elongation is less than 3%, there are few gaps between the single filaments of the multifilament, so that the single filaments are difficult to be randomly stacked and washed with a softener. , It is not possible to obtain an excellent seam slip resistance.
Moreover, in order to suppress manufacturing costs, the lining is often made of untwisted yarn as described later. And, in order to give a large elongation by using untwisted yarn for warp or weft, in a normal lining continuous preparation process [scouring (open soap) → preset (pin tenter) → weight loss (J box)] Because it cannot relax enough and does not shrink in the weft direction of the fabric, a special process such as reducing the width with a pin tenter or driving in the warp direction is required, but if it is about 5%, it is a normal continuous process It can be manufactured at low cost.
For reference, when processing at a general commercial production speed of 60 to 130 m / min, forcibly inserting or driving in with a pin tenter, the weft may bend and the warp may be bent, As a result of undulations and irregularities, the quality of the entire product deteriorates, and the maximum is 5%.
Therefore, in this invention, the textile elongation of the direction using the multifilament of this invention is set to 3 to 5%.

  On the other hand, the elongation of the other fabric is preferably 1.2% or more from the viewpoint of easily obtaining a smooth surface lining having a good touch.

  When the polyester multifilament of the present invention is used for the weft, the weft elongation of the fabric is 3 to 5%. In this case, the warp elongation of the fabric is usually 1.2 to 4%.

  The ratio of warp and weft fabric elongation is preferably about the same, and specifically about 3.5: 1 to 3.5: 1. If there is a difference in the ratio of elongation, the surface of the fabric is not smooth, and there is a risk that good touch will be impaired, and the feeling of wear may be impaired.

Hereinafter, the polyester multifilament of the present invention will be described in detail.
Next, the cross-sectional shape of the multifilament of the fabric of the present invention is illustrated in FIG. In this example, each of the M-shaped single yarn filaments is not in a brick-stacked state oriented in a certain direction, but is laminated in a random direction, and a certain gap or more is maintained between each single yarn constituting the multifilament. It has a shape. In such a state, by using the above-mentioned polyester multifilament, even when the lining is pulled, such as when worn, the gap becomes a cushion, and the yarn is pulled by friction between the multifilament single yarns. , Resistance to slippage of the seam will be good.

  The multifilament of the present invention preferably uses a substantially untwisted raw yarn in order to obtain an inexpensive lining. Substantially untwisted means that there is no twist, that is, 0 t / m, or about 2 to 20 t / m, and at most 50 t / m when untwisting from a bobbin is entered. Say. When twisting is applied by additional twisting, the surface of the fabric tends to be uneven, and a smooth fabric with a good touch may not be obtained. Moreover, when a strong twist is applied, the gap between the single yarns of the multifilament may not be sufficient, and the above-mentioned resistance to seam slippage may be hindered.

When the multifilament of the present invention is used as a lining, it is preferable to provide a certain gap or more between the filaments. Specifically, for example, the porosity is preferably 30% or more. The porosity is determined with reference to a micrograph of a warp or weft fiber cross section after cutting the woven fabric. Referring to FIG. 1, Sf × 100 / S is obtained as a porosity (%), where S is the area in the dotted line surrounded by the outer periphery of the multifilament and Sf is the sum of the areas of the single filaments. Can do.
For example, in a lining using 84 dtex / 36f having a normal general round cross section, it is about 20% or less. And in this invention, it is good to provide such a space | gap and a fiber cross-sectional shape is an atypical cross section. The shape of the fiber cross section of the filament will be described later.

  By adopting a structure in which gaps are provided between the single filaments of the multifilament in this way, good seam slip resistance can be obtained without greatly increasing the fabric elongation. This porosity is more preferably 30% or more. Also, the upper limit will be about 50% so that the multifilaments do not fall apart too much.

In addition, although the reason why the seam slip resistance is improved by providing a gap between the single yarn filaments is not clear, the following reason is presumed. When the lining is pulled in a certain direction, the force concentrates on the seam where the linings are sewn together, and the warp or weft is pulled by the sewing thread, so that the seam opens widely and the seam slips.
In the present invention, by providing a gap between the single yarn filaments of the polyester multifilament, even if the pulling force acts, the gap between the single yarns becomes a cushioning material and is relaxed, and the force is applied to the seam. It is presumed that it can be considered that the seam slippage is improved without being concentrated and distributed.

Next, a preferred example will be shown more specifically.
Examples of the polyester used in the multifilament of the present invention include polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and trimethylene terephthalate. Moreover, what copolymerized 3rd components like polyethyleneglycol, isophthalic acid, etc. may be used. Especially, what consists of polyethylene terephthalate which 90 mol% or more has a repeating unit of ethylene phthalate from the point which is easy to maintain a softness and intensity | strength is preferable.

  And the cross-sectional shape of the multifilament single yarn of this invention is an atypical cross section. In the case of an irregular cross section, the cross section may be a polygonal cross section such as an L type, a Y type, or an M type, a radial type, a hollow type, or any other indefinite shape. Among these, the foot length Y-shaped cross section and the M-shaped cross section are preferable, and the M-shaped cross section is particularly preferable.

Next, a preferred shape in the case of an M-shaped cross section will be described in detail. This M-shaped cross section is, for example, a cross section as shown in FIG. A point where the line is connected from the lower left end a to the lower right end b in FIG. 2 and extended from b to the height L1 is defined as the upper right end c. Similarly, a point extending vertically upward from the lower left end a is defined as an upper left end d. Of the rectangle ab-c-d surrounding the M-shaped cross section, the proportion occupied by other than the fiber cross section (hereinafter referred to as single yarn porosity) is 20% or more, and preferably about 30 to 60%. .
In this way, the multifilament having an M-shaped cross-section with a continuous mountain shape and a large single yarn void ratio makes it easy for each single yarn of the multifilament to be caught between the single yarns. Even when the yarns are pulled together, the single yarns are easily caught with each other, and this becomes friction, which makes it difficult for the stitches to slip and improves the slippage resistance of the stitches. And it becomes what becomes easy to give a space | gap between each single yarn of a multifilament, and when pulled, this friction can be absorbed between single yarns. As a result, it is considered that a sufficiently good seam slip resistance can be obtained without particularly large fabric elongation.
In addition, if the single yarn porosity is too large, the thickness of the single yarn will be thin, and if the surface of the fabric is rubbed, the filament may be finely broken and whitening may occur on the surface of the fabric. The upper limit of the single yarn porosity will be about 60%.

  Further, in order to obtain such a catch between single yarns, it is preferable that each filament is laminated in a random direction. As a result, the filaments are easily caught, which becomes friction, makes it easy to obtain good seam slip resistance, and also makes it easy to obtain the elongation as a woven fabric.

Further, in order to improve the catching between the single yarns as described above and keep the seam slip resistance good, the opening angle θ shown in FIG. 1 is preferably 150 degrees or less, and in particular, 120 degrees or less. 110 degrees or less is particularly preferable. That is, if the opening angle is too large, it becomes close to a flat yarn, is difficult to be randomly stacked, and there is a tendency for the single yarns to be scarce and inferior in resistance to slipping off the stitches.
Further, the opening angle is preferably 100 degrees or more in order to obtain a good touch and uniform dyeability. That is, if the opening angle is too small, both sides of the M-shaped cross section become narrow and closed, and during spinning, the cooling air when the polymer is discharged from the spinning hole is difficult to uniformly hit each side of the M cross section, resulting in insufficient cooling. It tends to be likely to cause thread spots due to the above, and when used for a lining, the thread spots tend to cause stained spots. Therefore, when it is desired to unify the appearance colors, the opening angle is preferably 100 degrees or more.
The aspect ratio (ratio of minor axis / major axis, l ₄ / l _{3 in} FIG. 2) is preferably about 1/2 to 1/4. That is, if the ratio of the short diameter is too small, the catch between the single yarns tends to be reduced, and if the ratio of the short diameter is too large, there is a possibility that the yarn unevenness is generated.
In addition, in order to obtain a catch between single yarns as described above, with reference to FIG. 2, assuming that the height of the M cross section is L1 and the height of the gap is L2, the clearance ratio (L2 × 100) shown below / L1) is preferably 20 to 50%, and more preferably 20 to 40%.

  In order to obtain the above-described single yarn catch, it is preferable to appropriately set the opening angle, the aspect ratio, the clearance ratio, and the like in the above range in addition to the above configuration. As a preferable combination of these, for example, when the opening angle is 100 degrees to 150 degrees and the aspect ratio is 1/2 to 1/4, the filaments are randomly stacked to easily maintain the single yarn porosity. Appearance, texture and resistance to seam slipping are easily obtained.

  In addition, although what has become one M shape was demonstrated in FIG. 2, as shown in FIG. 3, the thing of the M-shaped cross section of the wave shape which continued M shape may be sufficient.

The preferred example of the atypical cross-sectional shape has been described taking the M-shaped cross section as an example, but in the case of the Y-shaped cross section, the single yarn porosity, opening angle, and aspect ratio may be obtained as follows. A line is connected from the lower left end e of FIG. 4 to the lower right end f, and the point extending the line by the height of the cross section perpendicular to f is defined as the upper right end g. Similarly, a point extending vertically upward from the lower left end e is defined as an upper left end h. Of the rectangular efgh surrounding the M cross section, the proportion occupied by other than the fiber cross section is defined as the single yarn porosity, and the opening angle and aspect ratio (l ₄ / l ₃ ) are as shown in FIG. . These are preferably set to values similar to those of the M cross section.

  As in the present invention, if the polyester multifilament has the cross-sectional shape of the fiber as described above, whether or not it is washed with water or selected using a softening agent due to the contact between the single yarn filaments Regardless of, excellent seam slip resistance is obtained.

  The total fineness of the yarn constituting the multifilament of the present invention is preferably 20 dtex or more and 170 dtex or less. Moreover, the single yarn fineness is preferably 0.8 to 5 dtex. In order to utilize the porosity of the irregular cross-section fibers, it is preferable that the yarns having these finenesses are about 10 to 100 filaments.

Next, an example of the suitable manufacturing method of the textile fabric of the present invention is shown. Polyester containing 90% by mole or more of ethylene terephthalate is melted and spun from a spinning hole provided with a protrusion at each vertex of the M-shaped slit to obtain a polyester multifilament having an M-shaped cross section. The opening angle, the clearance ratio, and the aspect ratio of the single yarn cross section of the filament are preferably in the above ranges. Thereafter, the obtained polyester multifilament is woven using wefts or warps to form a living machine. The total cover factor of the living machine (hereinafter referred to as the living machine CF) is preferably about 1200 to 1800. If it is a lining for uniform use, about 1400-1800 are more preferable. Here, the total cover factor is the sum of the cover factors in the warp direction and the weft direction, and is expressed by the following equation.

This raw machine is continuously processed by scouring → pre-setting with a pintator → alkali weight reduction with a continuous preparation machine. The weight loss rate may be adjusted as appropriate, but is usually preferably 0 to 15%. Subsequently, it is dyed at about 100 to 140 ° C. with a liquid dyeing machine or the like and finished. At this time, antistatic and flexible processing may be appropriately performed.
Further, if the multifilament of the present invention is used for the weft, the relationship between the weft raw machine CF and the weft finish CF is set so that (finish CF / green machine CF) is 1.05 to 1.15. Since it is easy to process continuously, it is efficient and preferable. The same applies to the case where the multifilament of the present invention is used for the warp.

In the following examples, the following methods were used for measuring physical properties and the like.
(1) Opening angle, aspect ratio, gap ratio, single yarn porosity, porosity The fabric was cut and each value was measured by an electron micrograph of the warp or weft fabric cross section.
(2) Elongation and Weft Elongation Elongation measured by a load of 24.52 N according to JIS L1096 B method was defined as elongation.
(3) Seam slip resistance (mm)
It measured by the conditions of the grip width 2.54cm 49.0N load by JIS-L-1096 B method.
(4) Sliding seam after using softener (mm)
According to the JISL 0217 103 method, a softener (trade name: Hamming (registered trademark) 1/3, manufactured by Kao Corporation) was used three times, and then air-dried and hung flat.

Example 1
<Manufacture of irregular cross-section yarn>
Polyethylene terephthalate having intrinsic viscosity [η] = 0.63 and containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide is melted at 299 ° C. from M-type spinning holes having protrusions at each apex, and discharged from the spinneret. It cooled at 0.46 m / sec, the oil agent was provided, and it was led and wound around the pretension roller with the peripheral speed of 1250 m / min. Furthermore, it led to the first goded roller with a surface temperature of 99 ° C. and a peripheral speed of 1250 m / min. The film was stretched between the first goded roller and a second goded roller having a surface temperature of 125 ° C. and a peripheral speed of 3500 m / min, heat-set by the second goded roller, and wound up.
The properties of the obtained yarn are as follows: the fineness is 84 dtex / 24f, the breaking strength is 3.2 cN / dtex, the breaking elongation is 33%, the opening angle of the fiber cross section is 110 °, and the aspect ratio is 1 / 2.9. The gap ratio was 34%, and the single yarn porosity was 35%.
<Lining method>
56 dtex / 48f, regular polyester full-filar non-twisted yarn with a round cross section is used as the warp, and 84 dtex / 24f M-shaped cross-sectional yarn with the above properties is used as the weft. The warp density is 117. /2.54 cm, weft density of 78 yarns / 2.54 cm, fabric length of 54.5 m, fabric width of 138 cm of plain structure was obtained (warp CF: 827, weft CF: 676, fabric CF: 1503) .
Using this plain woven fabric as a living machine, the fabric speed is 80 m / min by a continuous preparation machine [scouring (open soap type 4 tanks, water temperature 95 ° C.) → preset (pin tenter 195 ° C.) → alkali weight loss (J box continuous weight loss machine)]. It was processed with.
Next, after dyeing with a liquid dyeing machine at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes, it was passed through a continuous finishing machine [set (pin tenter 180 ° C.)] at a cloth speed of 70 m / min to give antistatic and flexible processing.
The resulting lining has a warp density of 130 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 82 / 2.54 cm, a weight loss rate of 6%, a fabric length of 51 m, a fabric width of 124 cm, a warp CF: 919, and a weft CF: 710, finishing CF: 1629, warp elongation: 1.3%, weft elongation: 4.0% (elongation: weft elongation = 1: 3.1, finishing CF / raw machine CF: 1. 08). Further, the fiber cross-sectional shape of the weft is an M-shaped cross section as shown in FIG. 1 and was laminated randomly. The multifilament had a porosity of 38%, a single yarn porosity of 35%, a clearance ratio of 34%, an opening angle of 110 degrees, and an aspect ratio of 1 / 2.9.
The lining slip resistance of the obtained lining was 0.3 mm in warp and 0.4 mm in weft, and the slip slip resistance after washing was 0.5 mm in warp and 0.7 mm in weft.
Thus, the stitch slip resistance of the lining obtained in Example 1 was excellent, and the touch in the warp direction, the weft direction, and the diagonal direction was smooth and soft. Further, even after washing with a softening agent, the resistance to slipping off the seam was good and the durability was excellent. When this lining and outer material are sewn and worn as a suit jacket, it is smooth and comfortable to touch in any of the warp, weft, and diagonal directions, and even if it stretches or bends greatly There was no seam misalignment and the wear feeling was excellent. Moreover, when it was worn and used as a lining for a tight skirt, there was no seam deviation and it was excellent in wearing feeling.

(Example 2)
A raw fabric (warp yarn CF: 827, weft CF: 676, raw machinery CF: 1503) was used in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the shape of the spinneret of the base of Example 1 was changed and a yarn of 84 dtex / 30f was obtained and used. Obtained and processed to obtain a lining.
The resulting lining has a warp density of 130 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 82 / 2.54 cm, a weight loss rate of 6%, a fabric length of 51 m, a fabric width of 124 cm, a warp CF: 919, and a weft CF: 710, finishing CF: 1629, elongation: 1.5%, weft elongation: 3.9% (elongation: weft = 1: 2.6, finishing CF / raw machine CF is 1) .08). In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the weft fiber is an M-shaped cross section as shown in FIG. 1. This multifilament has a porosity of 32%, a single yarn porosity of 23%, a clearance ratio of 18%, and an opening angle of 130 °. The aspect ratio was 1 / 2.2.
The lining slip resistance of the obtained lining was 1.8 mm in warp and 1.8 mm in weft, and the slip resistance after washing was 2.4 mm in warp and 2.7 mm in weft.
Thus, although it was inferior to what was obtained in Example 1, the lining seam slip resistance was excellent, and the touch in the warp direction, the weft direction and the diagonal direction was smooth and soft. Further, even after washing with a softening agent, the resistance to slipping off the seam was good and the durability was excellent. When this lining and outer material are sewn and worn as a jacket, it is inferior to the product of Example 1, but it is smooth and comfortable in any of the warp, weft and diagonal directions, and greatly stretched. There was no seam misalignment even when bent or bent, and the feeling of wearing was good. In addition, when used as a lining for a tight skirt, there was no seam deviation and the wearing feeling was good.

(Example 3)
A polyester multifilament (trade name: 84T / 48SND (manufactured by Kanebo Gosei Co., Ltd.)) having a fiber cross-sectional shape of Y type at 84 dtex / 48f was prepared. The multifilament had an aspect ratio of a fiber cross section of a single yarn filament of 1 / 2.0, a single yarn porosity of 45%, a breaking strength of 3.5 cN / dtex, and a breaking elongation of 35%.
A plain weave fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that this multifilament was used for the weft (warp CF: 827, weft CF: 676, and raw CF: 1503). Subsequently, it processed like Example 1 and obtained the lining. The resulting lining has a warp density of 130 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 82 / 2.54 cm, a weight loss rate of 6%, a fabric length of 51 m, a fabric width of 124 cm, a warp CF: 919, a weft CF : 710, finishing CF: 1629, elongation: 1.4%, weft elongation: 3.8% (elongation: weft elongation = 1: 2.7, finishing CF / raw machine CF is 1) .08).
The weft yarn has a Y-shaped cross section. The multifilament has a porosity of 40%, a single yarn porosity of 45%, an opening angle of 110 degrees, and an aspect ratio of 1 / 2.0. there were.
The lining slip resistance of the lining obtained was 1.2 mm in warp and 1.3 mm in weft, and the slip slip resistance after washing was 1.4 mm in warp and 1.8 mm in weft.
Thus, although it was inferior to the lining obtained in Example 1, the slippage resistance of the seam was excellent, and the touch in the warp direction, the weft direction, and the diagonal direction was smooth and soft. Further, even after washing with a softening agent, the resistance to slipping off the seam was good and the durability was excellent. When this lining and outer material are sewn and worn as a suit jacket, it is smooth and comfortable to touch in any of the warp, weft, and diagonal directions, and even if it stretches or bends greatly There was no seam deviation and the wearing feeling was good. Moreover, when it was used as a lining for a tight skirt, there was no seam deviation and the wearing feeling was good.

(Comparative Example 1)
A plain woven fabric fabric is obtained by weaving under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that a polyester terephthalate (trade name: 84T / 36DND, manufactured by Kanebo Gosei Co., Ltd.) having a full dull cross section of 84 dtex / 36f is used for the weft. (Warn CF: 827, Weft CF: 676, Fresh CF: 1503).
Subsequently, it processed on the same conditions as Example 1, and obtained the lining. The resulting lining has a warp density of 127 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 82 / 2.54 cm, a weight loss rate of 6%, a fabric length of 51 m, a fabric width of 127 cm, a warp CF: 898, and a weft CF: 710, finishing CF: 1608, elongation: 1.5%, weft elongation: 2.4% (elongation: weft elongation = 1: 1.6, finishing CF / green machine CF is 1. 07).
The outer appearance of the lining was inferior in quality because the wefts were curved and the fabric was bent. The weft multifilament had a porosity of 15%, a single yarn porosity of 18%, and an aspect ratio of 1.0.
The lining slip resistance of the lining obtained was 1.9 mm in warp and 2.2 mm in weft, and the slip slip resistance after washing was 3.1 mm in warp and 7.2 mm in weft.
Thus, since both the warp elongation and the weft elongation are low, the resistance to slipping off the seams after washing with a softener was very poor. When the lining and the outer material were sewn and worn as an outer jacket, when the fabric was stretched or bent down, the seam slipped and felt uncomfortable. Also, when worn as a lining for a tight skirt, there was a seam shift and the wearing feeling was poor.

比較例２は、単糸空隙率が１８％と小さいものであるため、縫い目滑脱抵抗が優れたものを得ることができず、裏地とした際の着用感も劣るものであった。実施例４（単糸空隙率：２３％）、実施例５（単糸空隙率：４０％）は、柔軟剤を使用する前後とも、実用上望ましいとされている縫い目滑脱抵抗（３ｍｍ以下）を保っており、この裏地を表地と縫製して、背広の上着として着用しても、またタイトスカートの裏地として用いて着用しても、縫い目ずれがなく、着用感が良好であった。
特に、実施例１、実施例５の３０％以上の単糸空隙率をもつものは、柔軟剤使用後も１．０％以下の顕著な縫い目滑脱抵抗を示し、着用感もよいものであった。
実施例４、１、５いずれにおいても、緯伸度が５％以下のものであり、特に、プレセットの際に巾入れする必要がなく、上記のように良好なものが得られた。
また、この裏地は、経、緯、ななめ方向とも滑らかな手触りであった。 (Comparative Example 2, Examples 4 and 5)
By changing the shape of the spinneret, a yarn having a single yarn porosity different from that of Example 1 was obtained. Using this yarn as the weft, a raw fabric was prepared under the same conditions as in Example 1 and processed to obtain a lining. The fiber cross-sectional shape of any weft was randomly laminated.
The physical properties of the lining obtained in Table 1 below are shown.

In Comparative Example 2, since the single yarn porosity was as small as 18%, it was not possible to obtain a product with excellent resistance to seam slippage, and the feeling of wearing when used as a lining was also inferior. Example 4 (single yarn void ratio: 23%) and Example 5 (single yarn void ratio: 40%) had a seam slip resistance (3 mm or less), which is considered practically desirable before and after the use of a softener. Even if this lining was sewn with the outer material and worn as a jacket for a suit or used as a lining for a tight skirt, there was no seam deviation and the feeling of wearing was good.
In particular, those having a single yarn void ratio of 30% or more of Example 1 and Example 5 exhibited a remarkable seam slip resistance of 1.0% or less even after the use of the softening agent, and had a good wearing feeling. .
In each of Examples 4, 1, and 5, the weft elongation was 5% or less, and it was not particularly necessary to insert a width during the presetting, and the above-described good products were obtained.
In addition, this lining had a smooth feel in the warp, latitude, and lick directions.

実施例６は、縫い目滑脱抵抗が優れ、裏地として使用した際も縫い目ずれは生じないが、開口角度が小さいため、フィラメントが均一に冷却されがたく、得られた裏地は、染色斑がみられた。
なお、裏地の緯糸のフィラメントは、開口角度が小さくなればなるほど、繊維横断面形状はランダムに積層されているものであった。実施例１０は、実施例９よりは若干、平面的に積層されたものであり、比較例３では、ほぼ偏平糸に近く、フィラメントが一定の方向に向い状態であり、ランダムに積層しているものではなく、比較例３は柔軟剤使用後の縫い目滑脱抵抗が充分でなかった。
表２より、Ｍ型断面の場合、縫い目滑脱抵抗についてみてみると、開口角度が１１０度以下が最適であり、１５０度以下であれば充分、実用上、耐えうるものであることがわかる。 (Examples 6 to 10, Comparative Example 3)
Spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the opening angle and aspect ratio of the shape of the spinning hole were changed to spin the M-shaped cross-sectional yarn, and the raw fabric was woven and processed.
Table 2 shows the physical properties of the obtained yarn and lining.

In Example 6, the slippage resistance of the seam is excellent, and no slippage occurs when used as a lining. However, since the opening angle is small, the filament is difficult to be cooled uniformly, and the obtained lining has stained spots. It was.
Note that the weft filaments of the backing were such that the cross-sectional shape of the fibers was randomly stacked as the opening angle became smaller. Example 10 is slightly laminated in a planar manner as compared with Example 9, and in Comparative Example 3, the filaments are almost in the state of being almost flat and the filaments are oriented in a certain direction, and are laminated randomly. In Comparative Example 3, the resistance to slipping out of the seam after using the softening agent was not sufficient.
From Table 2, it can be seen that in the case of the M-shaped cross-section, the opening angle of 110 degrees or less is optimal, and if it is 150 degrees or less, it is sufficiently practically tolerable.

(Comparative Example 4)
The raw fabric of Example 1 was processed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the finished width of the fabric was 128 cm to obtain a lining. The resulting lining has a warp density of 126 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 82 / 2.54 cm, a warp elongation of 1.5%, and a warp elongation of 2.5% (elongation: weft elongation = 1.1.6 and finishing CF / green machine CF were 1.065). The seam slip resistance of the lining is 1.8 mm in warp and 1.5 mm in weft, 2.8 mm after washing and 3.6 mm in weft. Seam slip resistance was poor. When this lining was sewn with the outer material and used as the lining of the tight skirt, it was inferior in wearing feeling due to a seam shift.

(Comparative Example 5)
The raw fabric of Example 1 was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a step of reducing the width by a presetting process using a pin tenter was performed so that the finished width of the fabric was 120 cm, and a lining was obtained. The resulting lining has a warp density of 134 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 82 / 2.54 cm, an elongation of 1.5%, and an elongation of 7.0% (elongation: latitude elongation = 1: 4.7, and the finish CF / green machine CF was 1.10). The seam slip resistance of this lining was 0.3 mm in warp and 0.3 mm in weft, and the slip slip resistance after using the softener was 0.5 mm in warp and 0.7 mm in weft.
In addition, since the width was forcibly shortened by the pin tenter in the setting process, the weft yarn was bent (about 5.0%), the feel was not good, and the quality of the fabric was poor.

  From the above, if the lining is made of a polyester multifilament having a cross-sectional shape in which the single yarn porosity is at a certain level or higher and the single yarn filaments are randomly laminated as in the configuration of the present application, the fabric stretch of 5% or less Even when it is pre-set, it can be obtained at a low cost by using a softener without washing through a special process such as purging, so that it can be used with a good resistance to seam slipping and good touch. A pleasant lining can be provided.

  The lining of the present invention has a moderate stretch and is supple, so it can follow various outer fabrics. In particular, a lining used for uniforms such as suits, slacks, and skirts is suitable because it has excellent wearing feeling and durability.

It is a figure which shows an example of the cross section of the multifilament of this invention. It is a figure for demonstrating an example of the fiber cross-sectional shape of the filament of this invention. It is a figure which shows an example of the fiber cross-sectional shape of the filament of this invention. It is a figure which shows an example of the fiber cross-sectional shape of the filament of this invention.

Claims (3)

A lining made of a woven fabric containing polyester multifilament made of polyethylene terephthalate having a cross-sectional shape of a fiber having an irregular cross section in at least one of warp and weft, wherein the multifilament yarn has a single yarn porosity of 23% or more. A lining in which filament single yarns are laminated in random directions, and the elongation of the fabric in the direction including the polyester multifilament is 3.8 to 4.5%. The lining according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a fiber cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament is an M-shaped cross section. The lining according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein a fiber cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament is a Y-shaped cross-section.

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