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JP4526469B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents
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JP4526469B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

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JP4526469B2
JP4526469B2 JP2005319463A JP2005319463A JP4526469B2 JP 4526469 B2 JP4526469 B2 JP 4526469B2 JP 2005319463 A JP2005319463 A JP 2005319463A JP 2005319463 A JP2005319463 A JP 2005319463A JP 4526469 B2 JP4526469 B2 JP 4526469B2
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JP2007126387A (en
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文明 八木
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株式会社ピカソ美化学研究所
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Description

本発明は、化粧料に関し、さらに詳細には、細胞容積を調整せしめることにより優れた肌への改善効果や使用感を有する化粧料に関する。   The present invention relates to a cosmetic, and more particularly, to a cosmetic having an excellent improvement effect on the skin and a feeling of use by adjusting the cell volume.

人の皮膚は加齡に伴って徐々に老化するが、加齡以外にも様々な外的刺激が皮膚の老化の原因となることが知られている。そして、特に日中の紫外線は細胞外マトリックスの構成成分であるコラ−ゲン、エラスチンなどの架橋や切断を生じさせ、それにより肌の弾力性や保湿性を低下せしめるため、しわ、くすみ、乾燥肌、荒れ性などの原因となるものである。このような変化を受けた肌はさらに外的刺激を受けやすくなり、細胞の活動が低下し、細胞外マトリックスの再生力が減退するという悪循環に陥って老化が急激に進行する
。短時間に進行する肌の艶の消失、しみ、くすみなどの増加は、上述のような強い外的敵刺激に起因することが多いものである。かかる外的刺激による皮膚の老化を防止せしめるため、従来より皮膚の表皮を構成する角質細胞間物質、真皮における細胞マトリックス成分、又はその他皮膚構成要素に着目し、その成分を補強したり、あるいは活性化せしめる化粧料が提案されている。
Human skin is gradually aged as it is warmed, but various external stimuli are known to cause skin aging in addition to warming. In particular, ultraviolet rays in the daytime cause cross-linking and cutting of collagen and elastin, which are components of the extracellular matrix, thereby reducing the elasticity and moisture retention of the skin, so wrinkles, dullness, dry skin , Cause roughness. Skin that has undergone such changes becomes more susceptible to external stimuli, cell activity decreases, and aging progresses abruptly in a vicious circle in which the regenerative power of the extracellular matrix decreases. The increase in loss of skin gloss, blotches, dullness, etc., which progresses in a short time, is often caused by strong external enemy stimulation as described above. In order to prevent aging of the skin due to such external stimuli, attention has been paid to keratin intercellular substances constituting the epidermis of the skin, cell matrix components in the dermis, or other skin components, and the components are reinforced or active Cosmetics that can be turned into colours have been proposed.

上記の外的刺激による皮膚の老化を防止せしめる一例として、例えば、紫外線吸収剤や保湿剤を化粧料に配合することが行われている。また、コラゲナ−ゼやエラスタ−ゼ阻害剤を配合して細胞外マトリックスを正常状態に維持せしめたもの(特開2003−95857号公報、特開2004−175856号公報等参照)、あるいは、皮膚の細胞を増殖せしめるべく細胞増殖促進剤を配合せしめたもの(特開平5−17335号公報、特開平9−59166号公報等参照)などが提案されている。
特開2003−95857号公報 特開2004−175856号公報 特開平5−17335号公報 特開平9−59166号公報
As an example of preventing skin aging due to the above external stimulus, for example, a UV absorber or a moisturizing agent is blended in cosmetics. Further, a collagenase or an elastase inhibitor is added to maintain the extracellular matrix in a normal state (see JP 2003-95857 A, JP 2004-175856 A, etc.), or skin There have been proposed those in which a cell growth promoter is blended in order to proliferate cells (see JP-A-5-17335, JP-A-9-59166, etc.).
JP 2003-95857 A JP 2004-175856 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-17335 JP-A-9-59166

しかしながら、通常配合し得る程度の紫外線吸収剤のみでは有害紫外線を完全に遮断することが難しく、あえて多量に配合せしめた場合には皮膚に対する刺激性が問題となるものである。また、コラゲナ−ゼやエラスタ−ゼ阻害剤、細胞増殖促進剤の皮膚改善効果は必ずしも満足し得ないものであり、しかも、生理活性を有するため人体への影響等を配慮する必要があるものである。   However, it is difficult to completely block harmful ultraviolet rays only with an ultraviolet absorber that can be usually blended, and when it is intentionally blended in a large amount, irritation to the skin becomes a problem. In addition, the skin improvement effect of collagenase, elastase inhibitor and cell growth promoter is not always satisfactory, and since it has physiological activity, it is necessary to consider the influence on the human body. is there.

本発明者は従来の問題点を解決しようとするもので、皮膚細胞の死滅を防ぐべく細胞内外のイオン濃度に着目して鋭意研究を行った結果、細胞容積の調整機能を持たせることにより優れた肌への改善効果を示すと共に、良好な使用感を有することを知見し、本発明を完成するに至った。   The present inventor intends to solve the conventional problems, and as a result of earnest research focusing on the ion concentration inside and outside the cell in order to prevent the death of the skin cells, the present inventor is excellent by having a function of adjusting the cell volume. In addition to showing the improvement effect on the skin, it has been found that it has a good feeling of use, and the present invention has been completed.

上記の目的を達成するため、本願請求項1記載の発明は、細胞表層上のCa2+イオン濃度を減少せしめるべくCa2+イオン用キレ−ト剤、細胞内のK+及びCl-イオン濃度を上昇せしめるべくK+及びCl-イオンを内包せしめた脂質二分子膜小包とを配合せしめたことを特徴とする、化粧料を要旨とするものである。 To achieve the above object, the invention of claim 1 wherein the cell surface on the Ca 2+ ion concentration decreases allowed to order Ca 2+ ions for chelating the - and bets agent, intracellular K + and Cl - ions K + and Cl to allowed to increase the concentration - is characterized in that allowed blending a lipid bilayer parcel was allowed containing ions, it is an gist cosmetic.

そして、本願発明に係る化粧料の皮膚改善メカニズムについては明らかではないが、以下の通りであると思われる。
即ち、すべての動物細胞は固有の容積に調節されており、例え外的要因により収縮・膨張が強いられた場合においても、その後速やかに正常容積へと復帰する能力をもっている
。かかる浸透圧性膨張後の容積調節はRVD(Regulatory Volume Decrease)、浸透圧性収縮後の容積調節はRVI(Regulatory Volume Increase)と呼ばれ、このような容積調節機構は、細胞機能・細胞増殖・細胞生存に不可欠である。
And although it is not clear about the skin improvement mechanism of the cosmetics which concern on this invention, it seems to be as follows.
That is, all animal cells are adjusted to a specific volume and have the ability to quickly return to the normal volume even when contracted or expanded due to external factors. Such volume regulation after osmotic expansion is called RVD (Regularity Volume Decrease), volume regulation after osmotic contraction is called RVI (Regularity Volume Increase), and such volume regulation mechanism is a function of cell function / cell proliferation / cell survival. Is essential.

そして、上記RVDのアポト−シス性細胞死における容積調節破綻による知見から、皮膚細胞の死滅・縮小を阻害せしめることが必要である。アポト−シス過程のアポト−シス小体形成以前に発生する細胞縮小化AVD(Apoptotic Volume Decrease)の進行時には、RVDの異常亢進が伴われる。すなわち、容積調節に関与するK+イオンチャネル及びCl-イオンチャネルが細胞膨張なしに異常に活性化している。このAVDを阻止すればアポト−シス死が救済され、細胞の死滅を防ぐことが出来ると考えられる。RVDは細胞からのK+及びCl-イオン流出と、それに伴う水の流出に起因することが解明されている。K+とCl-イオンの流出は電気的中性下で移動するものであるから、少なくとも両方のコンダクタンス(透過性)は同時に上昇しなければならない。Cl-イオンのコンダクタンス上昇については必ずしもCa2+イオンの上昇を必要としないが、K+イオンのコンダクタンス上昇には細胞内Ca2+の上昇が必要であることが解明されている。つまり、RVDの異常亢進を阻止するためには、少くともCa2+イオンの細胞
内におけるイオン濃度の上昇を防ぎ、さらに、細胞内のK+及びCl-イオン濃度を上昇さ
せればよいものと考えられる。
And it is necessary to inhibit the death / reduction of skin cells based on the findings from the volume regulation failure in the apoptotic cell death of RVD. In the progression of cell-reduced AVD (apoptotic volume decrease) that occurs before the formation of apoptotic bodies in the apoptotic process, abnormal increase in RVD is accompanied. That, K + ion channel and Cl involved in volume regulation - ion channel is abnormally activated without cell expansion. It is thought that if this AVD is blocked, apoptotic death is rescued and cell death can be prevented. It has been elucidated that RVD is caused by K + and Cl - ion efflux from cells and the accompanying water efflux. Since the efflux of K + and Cl ions moves under electrical neutrality, at least both conductances (permeability) must increase simultaneously. Although it is not always necessary to increase Ca 2+ ions for increasing the conductance of Cl ions, it has been elucidated that increasing the conductance of K + ions requires an increase in intracellular Ca 2+ . In other words, in order to prevent the abnormal increase in RVD, at least the increase of intracellular ion concentration of Ca 2+ ions should be prevented, and the intracellular K + and Cl ion concentrations should be increased. Conceivable.

そして、前者を実現せしめる方法としては、細胞表層上におけるCa2+イオン濃度をCa2+イオン用キレ−ト剤により特異的に減少せしめることを知見した。また、後者を実現せしめる方法としては、イオンチャネルを介することなく、細胞膜から脂質二分子膜カプセルを用い、直接K+及びCl-イオンを導入せしめ、効率よく、かつ、多量にこれらのイオン濃度を上昇せしめることを知見した。以上の知見により、上述のRVDの異常亢進を阻害し、ダメ−ジを防ぐと共に皮膚細胞の死滅を防ぎ、細胞容積を調整せしめることにより皮膚に対する改善効果が強化されるものと思われる。 Then, as a method in which realize the former, the concentration of Ca 2+ ions Ca 2+ ions for chelating on cell surface - it was found that allowed to decrease by preparative agent specifically. In order to achieve the latter, K + and Cl - ions can be directly introduced from the cell membrane using a lipid bilayer capsule without going through an ion channel, and these ion concentrations can be efficiently and in large quantities. I found it to rise. Based on the above findings, it is considered that the above-described abnormal increase in RVD is inhibited, damage is prevented, skin cells are prevented from being killed, and the cell volume is adjusted to enhance the improvement effect on the skin.

請求項1記載の発明は上述のように構成されているから、細胞表層上のCa2+イオン濃度をCa2+イオン用キレ−ト剤でもって特異的に減少せしめると共に、細胞膜から直接K + 及びCl - イオンを効率よく多量に導入せしめて細胞内イオン温度を上昇せしめ、細胞表層上のCa 2+ イオン濃度の減少とも相まって常に細胞容積を適正に調整せしめることが出来るものであって、ひいては、肌表面のpH値、キメ、表面温度を向上せしめるのみならず、くすみ等を防いで皮膚を改善せしめることが出来るものである。 Since the invention according to claim 1 is configured as described above, the Ca 2+ ion concentration on the cell surface layer is specifically decreased with a chelating agent for Ca 2+ ions, and K + directly from the cell membrane. And Cl ions can be efficiently introduced in large quantities to increase the intracellular ion temperature, and in combination with a decrease in the Ca 2+ ion concentration on the cell surface, the cell volume can always be adjusted appropriately. In addition to improving the pH value, texture, and surface temperature of the skin surface, it is possible to improve skin by preventing dullness and the like.

以下、本発明の構成について詳述する。
本発明は、細胞表層上のCa2+イオン濃度を特異的に減少せしめるため、Ca2+イオン用キレ−ト剤を配合する。かかるCa2+イオン用キレ−ト剤の好適な一例としてエデト酸
、エデト酸塩類等を挙げることが出来る。上記Ca2+イオン用キレ−ト剤の配合量は、化粧料組成物全量に対して0.0001〜1重量%、好ましくは0.01〜0.1重量%である。そして、Ca2+イオン用キレ−ト剤の配合量が0.0001重量%に満たないと充分なCa2+イオンのキレ−ト作用が発現せず、また、1重量%を越える場合には他の組成物に対して好ましくない影響をあたえる。
Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, in order to specifically reduce the Ca 2+ ion concentration on the cell surface layer, a chelating agent for Ca 2+ ions is blended. Preferable examples of such a chelating agent for Ca 2+ ions include edetic acid and edetic acid salts. The blending amount of the Ca 2+ ion chelating agent is 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. When the amount of the chelating agent for Ca 2+ ions is less than 0.0001% by weight, sufficient Ca 2+ ion chelating action is not exhibited, and when the amount exceeds 1% by weight. Undesirable effects on other compositions.

また、細胞内のK+及びCl-イオン濃度を上昇せしめるため、K+及びCl-イオンを内包せしめた脂質二分子膜小包を配合し、細胞膜より直接K+及びCl-イオンを導入し、効率よく、かつ、多量にこれらのイオン濃度を上昇せしめる。かかるK+及びCl-イオンを内包せしめる脂質二分子膜小包の配合量は、化粧料組成物全量に対して0.0001〜3重量%、好ましくは0.1〜1重量%である。そして、K+及びCl-イオン内包の脂質二分子膜小包の配合量が0.0001重量%に満たない場合には充分に細胞内のK+及びCl-イオン濃度を上昇せしめることが出来ず、また、3重量%を超える場合には他の組成物に対して好ましくない影響を与える。上記脂質二分子膜小包の好適な一例としてホスファチジルコリン、ホスファチジルグリセロ−ル、大豆リン脂質、卵胞リン脂質などを挙げることが出来る。かかる脂質二分子膜小包としては、10nm〜300nmが好適である。 Also, K + and Cl intracellular - for allowed to increase the ion concentration, K + and Cl - blended lipid bilayer parcel was allowed containing ions directly K + and Cl from the cell membrane - introducing ions, efficiency The concentration of these ions is increased well and in large quantities. The blending amount of the lipid bilayer membrane that encapsulates such K + and Cl ions is 0.0001 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. Then, K + and Cl - can not be allowed to increase the ion concentration, - the amount of lipid bilayer parcel ion contained is K + and Cl in sufficient intracellular when less than 0.0001 wt% Moreover, when it exceeds 3 weight%, it has an unfavorable influence with respect to another composition. Preferable examples of the lipid bilayer parcel include phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylglycerol, soybean phospholipid, follicular phospholipid and the like. As such a lipid bilayer parcel, 10 nm to 300 nm is preferable.

本発明の化粧料はCa2+イオン用キレ−ト剤、K+及びCl-イオンを内包せしめた脂質
二分子膜小包の他、精製水、グリセリン、1,3ブチレングリコ−ル、1,2ペンタンジ
オ−ル等の多価アルコ−ル類、流動パラフィン、ワセリン、スクワラン、植物性スクワラ
ン等の炭化水素類、ミツロウ、オリ−ブ油、マカデミアナッツ油、モルティエレラ油等の
油脂類、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸等の高級脂肪酸類、コ
レステロ−ルエステル等のエステル類、セタノ−ル等の高級アルコ−ル類、シリコ−ン類
、カルボキシビニルポリマ−、キサンタンガム、ヒドロキシエチルセルロ−ス等の増粘剤
、界面活性剤、エタノ−ル、無機粉体、ハマメリスエキス等の植物抽出物、アラントイン
等の消炎剤、ビタミンC等のビタミン類、シクロデキストリン、塩化ナトリウム等の安定
化剤、紫外線吸収剤、腐敗剤、L−アルギニン、水酸化カリウム等のpH調整剤、色
素、香料等の化粧料に公知の成分を発明の効果を損なわない範囲で必要に応じて適宜配合出来る。
The cosmetics of the present invention include Ca 2+ ion chelating agents, lipid bilayer membranes encapsulating K + and Cl - ions, purified water, glycerin, 1,3 butylene glycol, 1, 2 Polyhydric alcohols such as pentanediol, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, squalane, vegetable squalane, beeswax, olive oil, macadamia nut oil, maltierella oil and other fats, lauric acid, myristin Acids, higher fatty acids such as palmitic acid, stearic acid, esters such as cholesterol ester, higher alcohols such as cetanol, silicones, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, etc. Thickeners, surfactants, ethanol, inorganic powders, plant extracts such as hamamelis extract, anti-inflammatory agents such as allantoin, vitamins such as vitamin C Stabilizers such as tamins, cyclodextrins and sodium chloride, UV absorbers, rot agents, pH adjusters such as L-arginine and potassium hydroxide, cosmetic ingredients such as pigments and fragrances have the effect of the invention. It can mix | blend suitably as needed in the range which does not impair.

本発明における化粧料は、常法により製造することができ、化粧水、エッセンス、クリ−ム、乳液、ファンデ−ション、洗顔料、クレンジング料、パック、ヘアトニック、ヘアシャンプ−、ヘアコンディショナ−等として利用出来る。   The cosmetics in the present invention can be produced by conventional methods, such as lotions, essences, creams, emulsions, foundations, facial cleansers, cleansing agents, packs, hair tonics, hair shampoos, hair conditioners. Etc.

次に実施例を挙げて本発明をさらに詳しく説明する。本発明は、これらの実施例に限られるものではない。
実施例、比較例
表1に示す配合割合(重量%)に基づいて、化粧水を常法によって調製した。ついで、実施例に、Ca2+イオン用キレ−ト剤とK+及びCl-イオン内包脂質二分子膜小包とを配合した。それぞれの試料を2週間使用し、10名のモニタ−を任意に抽出し、くすみ評価(額、口下顎、右頬、左頬)、キメ評価(額、口下顎、右頬、左頬)、肌表面温度及び肌表面pH値を測定し、その結果を表1に併せて示す。なお、上記くすみ評価は
○:くすみ改善あり
×:くすみ改善なし
を基準とし、またキメ評価は
○:キメ改善あり
×:キメ改善なし
を基準とした。
EXAMPLES Next, an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in more detail. The present invention is not limited to these examples.
Example 1 and Comparative Example 1
Based on the blending ratio (% by weight) shown in Table 1, lotion was prepared by a conventional method. Then, in Example 1, Ca 2+ ions for chelating - blended with the ion containing lipid bilayer parcel - DOO agent and K + and Cl. Each sample was used for 2 weeks, and 10 monitors were arbitrarily extracted, dull evaluation (forehead, lower jaw, right cheek, left cheek), texture evaluation (forehead, lower jaw, right cheek, left cheek), The skin surface temperature and the skin surface pH value were measured, and the results are also shown in Table 1. In addition, the above dull evaluation was based on ○: Dullness improvement ×: No dullness improvement, and the texture evaluation was based on ○: Dullness improvement ×: No dullness improvement.

Figure 0004526469
Figure 0004526469

表1から明らかな通り、実施例1は比較例1に比してくすみ評価及びキメ評価の点において優れた評価が得られると共に、好適な肌表面温度、肌表面pHを保持せしめ、肌への改善効果を有効に発揮せしめていることが理解出来る。 As is clear from Table 1, Example 1 is superior to Comparative Example 1 in that it has excellent evaluation in terms of soot evaluation and texture evaluation, while maintaining a suitable skin surface temperature and skin surface pH, It can be understood that the improvement effect is exhibited effectively.

実施例、比較例
表2に示す配合割合(重量%)に基づいて、クリ−ムを常法によって調製した。ついで
、実施例に、Ca2+イオン用キレ−ト剤とK+及びCl-イオン内包脂質二分子膜小包とを配合した。それぞれの試料を2週間使用し、10名のモニタ−を任意に抽出し、くすみ評価(額、口下顎、右頬、左頬)、キメ評価(額、口下顎、右頬、左頬)、肌表面温度及び肌表面pH値を測定し、その結果を併せて表2に示す。なお、上記くすみ評価は
○:くすみ改善あり
×:くすみ改善なし
を基準とし、またキメ評価は
○:キメ改善あり
×:キメ改善なし
を基準とした。
Example 2 and Comparative Example 2
Based on the blending ratio (% by weight) shown in Table 2, a cream was prepared by a conventional method. Then, in Example 2, Ca 2+ ions for chelating - blended with the ion containing lipid bilayer parcel - DOO agent and K + and Cl. Each sample was used for 2 weeks, and 10 monitors were arbitrarily extracted, dull evaluation (forehead, lower jaw, right cheek, left cheek), texture evaluation (forehead, lower jaw, right cheek, left cheek), The skin surface temperature and the skin surface pH value were measured, and the results are also shown in Table 2. In addition, the above dull evaluation was based on ○: Dullness improvement ×: No dullness improvement, and the texture evaluation was based on ○: Dullness improvement ×: No dullness improvement.

Figure 0004526469
Figure 0004526469

表2から明らかな通り、実施例は比較例に比してくすみ評価及びキメ評価の点において優れた評価が得られると共に、好適な肌表面温度、肌表面pHを保持せしめ、肌への改善効を有効に発揮せしめていることが理解出来る。 As is apparent from Table 2, Example 2 is superior to Comparative Example 2 in that it has excellent evaluation in terms of haze evaluation and texture evaluation, while maintaining a suitable skin surface temperature and skin surface pH, It can be understood that the improvement effect is exhibited effectively.

実施例、比較例
表3に示す配合割合(重量%)に基づいて、美容液を常法によって調製した。ついで、実施例に、Ca2+イオン用キレ−ト剤とK+及びCl-イオン内包脂質二分子膜小包とを配合した。それぞれの試料を2週間使用し、10名のモニタ−を任意に抽出し、くすみ評価(額、口下顎、右頬、左頬)、キメ評価(額、口下顎、右頬、左頬)、肌表面温度及び肌表面pH値を測定し、その結果を併せて表3に示す。なお、上記くすみ評価は
○:くすみ改善あり
×:くすみ改善なし
を基準とし、またキメ評価は
○:キメ改善あり
×:キメ改善なし
を基準とした。
Example 3 and Comparative Example 3
Based on the blending ratio (% by weight) shown in Table 3, a cosmetic solution was prepared by a conventional method. Then, in Example 3, Ca 2+ ions for chelating - blended with the ion containing lipid bilayer parcel - DOO agent and K + and Cl. Each sample was used for 2 weeks, and 10 monitors were arbitrarily extracted, dull evaluation (forehead, lower jaw, right cheek, left cheek), texture evaluation (forehead, lower jaw, right cheek, left cheek), The skin surface temperature and skin surface pH value were measured, and the results are also shown in Table 3. In addition, the above dull evaluation was based on ○: Dullness improvement ×: No dullness improvement, and the texture evaluation was based on ○: Dullness improvement ×: No dullness improvement.

Figure 0004526469
Figure 0004526469

表3から明らかな通り、実施例は比較例に比してくすみ評価及びキメ評価の点において優れた評価が得られると共に、好適な肌表面温度、肌表面pHを保持せしめ、肌への改善効を有効に発揮せしめていることが理解出来る。 As is clear from Table 3, Example 3 is superior to Comparative Example 3 in that it has excellent evaluation in terms of soot evaluation and texture evaluation, and maintains a suitable skin surface temperature and skin surface pH. It can be understood that the improvement effect is exhibited effectively.

Claims (1)

細胞表層上のCa2+ オン濃度を減少せしめるべくCa2+イオン用キレ−ト剤と、細胞内のK+及びCl-イオン濃度を上昇せしめるべくK+及びCl-イオンを内包せしめた脂質二分子膜小包とを配合せしめたことを特徴とする、化粧料。 To allowed to reduce the Ca 2+ ion-concentration on the cell surface Ca 2+ ions for chelating - DOO agent and, K + and Cl intracellular - to allowed to increase the ion concentration K + and Cl - lipid was allowed containing ions A cosmetic comprising a bilayer membrane package.
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