JP4570684B2 - Method for producing stretchable fabric and method for producing stretchable underwear - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a technique for producing a stretchable fabric.

  When producing a fabric using elastic yarns, after weaving the fabrics, in order to stabilize the elastic yarns, the fabric is stretched by applying a heat treatment while applying tension to the fabrics. Thereafter, a heat treatment without applying a tension for shrinking the elastic yarn was performed, and finally the heat treatment was performed while applying tension to the fabric, thereby stabilizing the fabric in dimension.

  When cutting the dough, it is efficient by stacking multiple sheets together and processing them efficiently, but when cutting to use a specific part of the dough, for example, when using the dough end, It was necessary to process a plurality of sheets after aligning them, and it was necessary to stabilize the fabric dimensionally. However, while the fabric is stabilized by the final heat treatment, the stretchability imparted by the shrinkage of the elastic yarn is deteriorated, and the desired stretchability may not be obtained.

  Therefore, in order to maintain high stretchability, there is a manufacturing method that imparts stretchability by performing heat treatment without applying tension after previously sewing the duvet cover with a fabric using elastic yarn that shrinks by heat treatment. For example, it is disclosed in Patent Document 1.

JP 2005-256255 A

  According to the technique disclosed in Patent Document 1, by performing sewing in advance, heat treatment with tension for stabilizing the fabric is not performed, and elasticity is maintained. . Therefore, in order to obtain a target shape, it is necessary to sew in a large shape assuming an amount of contraction in advance, which is complicated.

  Further, Patent Document 1 discloses that a stretchable fabric is manufactured by performing such a process before sewing, but even in this case, the fabric cannot be stabilized in dimension. For this reason, the cloth of the shape which assumed the quantity which shrinks previously was woven. Therefore, in any case, it is necessary to determine the product shape, perform sewing, cutting, and the like in advance, and then perform heat treatment for imparting shrinkage.

The present invention has been made in view of the above-described circumstances, and contracts the fabric by heat treatment to impart stretchability, suppresses deterioration of the stretchability, and stabilizes the fabric. It aims at providing the manufacturing method of a fabric, and the manufacturing method of an elastic underwear .

In order to solve the above-described problems, the present invention is directed to heating in a predetermined temperature range by applying tension to a fabric formed by warp knitting and having a warp direction higher than the weft direction so that the weft direction does not shrink. A tentering step of tentering by performing a treatment, and the fabric that has been tentered in the tentering step is immersed in a liquid heated to a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step, A soaking step for shrinking in the warp direction, and a spreading step for spreading the fabric soaked in the soaking step by applying tension in the weft direction while maintaining a state where the moisture content contained in the fabric is not less than a predetermined value. And the fabric expanded in the expansion step is conveyed in the warp direction without applying a tension in the weft direction, and is heated at a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step. Wherein the drying step of drying by applying, said drying step the fabric is dried by, superimposing a plurality together, in that it comprises a cutting step for cutting in a state where the end portion of the weft direction of each fabric are aligned A method for producing a stretchable fabric is provided.

Moreover, in another preferable aspect, between the said cutting process and the said drying process, the said fabric is maintained at the temperature lower than the temperature of the heat processing in the said drying process, It is characterized by the above-mentioned.

  In another preferred embodiment, the fabric uses polyurethane-based fibers and polyester-based fibers for the warp-direction constituent yarns, and uses cellulose-based fibers for the weft-direction constituent yarns.

  In another preferred embodiment, the fabric is dyed by dipping in a heated liquid in the dipping step, and the dyeing concentration of the constituent yarn in the weft direction is higher than the dyeing concentration of the constituent yarn in the warp direction It is characterized by that.

  Moreover, in another preferable aspect, the elongation at break of the fabric before the tentering step is 175% to 195% in the warp direction and 65% to 85% in the weft direction, and the tentering step The elongation at break of the fabric after is 135% to 155% in the warp direction and 60% to 80% in the weft direction. The elongation at break of the fabric after the drying step is The warp direction is 145% to 165%, and the weft direction is 60% to 80%.

  In another preferred embodiment, the tensile strength at break of the fabric before the tentering step is such that the tensile strength in the warp direction is 135N to 165N, and the weft direction is 180N to 220N. The tensile strength at break of the fabric after the process is that the tensile strength in the warp direction is 150N to 180N, the weft direction is 210N to 250N, and the tensile strength at break of the fabric after the drying step The tensile strength in the warp direction is 150N to 180N, and the weft direction is 135N to 165N.

  In another preferred embodiment, the burst strength of the fabric after the drying step is 300 kPa to 350 kPa.

In the present invention, a fabric formed by warp knitting and having a warp direction higher in elasticity than the weft direction is subjected to heat treatment in a predetermined temperature range by applying tension so that the weft direction does not shrink. A tentering step to be taken out, and the fabric that has been tentered in the tentering step is immersed in a liquid heated to a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step and contracted in the warp direction In the dipping step, the spreading step of spreading the fabric dipped in the dipping step while applying a tension in the weft direction while maintaining a state where the moisture content included in the fabric is a predetermined value or more, and the spreading step The spread fabric is transported in the warp direction without applying tension in the weft direction, and dried by applying heat treatment at a temperature lower than the heat treatment temperature in the tentering step. A drying step, a plurality of the fabrics dried by the drying step, a plurality of sheets, a cutting step of cutting each fabric in a state in which the weft-direction ends are aligned, and a fabric cut by the cutting step And a sewing step of sewing the underwear from the fabric so that the weft-direction end is used for the foot portion.

ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, while shrinking | contracting a fabric by heat processing and providing a stretching property, while suppressing the deterioration of the stretching property, the manufacturing method of the stretching fabric which can stabilize a fabric, and the manufacture of a stretching underwear A method can be provided.

It is explanatory drawing which shows the warp direction and the weft direction of the fabric which concerns on embodiment. It is a flowchart which shows the flow of the manufacturing method which concerns on embodiment. It is explanatory drawing of how to fold the fabric in the expansion process which concerns on embodiment.

  Hereinafter, an embodiment of the present invention will be described.

<Embodiment>
The manufacturing method of the stretchable fabric which concerns on one Embodiment of this invention is demonstrated. First, the fabric used in this example will be described.

  FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an appearance of a fabric. The fabric 1 used in this example is formed by warp knitting as shown in FIG. 1, and is knitted so as to become longer in the warp direction (direction along a shown in FIG. 1). Moreover, this fabric 1 has a higher stretchability in the warp direction than the weft direction (the direction along b shown in FIG. 1), and is, for example, a stretch bandage. In this example, the length of the fabric 1 in the weft direction is 101 cm. Moreover, the edge part of the weft direction of the fabric 1 is knitted so that a thread | yarn cannot be unwound.

  The yarn constituting the warp direction of the fabric 1 (hereinafter referred to as warp constituting yarn) is, for example, a mixed yarn in which a polyester sheath yarn, which is an inelastic yarn, is wound around a polyurethane core yarn, which is an elastic yarn. This elastic warp-constituting yarn knits the chain structure and imparts stretchability to the warp direction of the fabric 1. The warp constituting yarn is not limited to such a mixed yarn of polyurethane fiber and polyester fiber, and when warp knitted, the warp direction stretchability is higher than the weft stretchability. It only has to be.

  The insertion yarn constituting the weft direction of the fabric 1 (hereinafter referred to as the weft constituting yarn) is, for example, a spun yarn using cotton which is an inelastic yarn. The weft constituting yarn which is this inelastic yarn forms the weft direction of the knitted fabric. The weft constituent yarn is not limited to cotton, and may be a yarn using cellulosic fibers.

In this example, the fabric 1 before being processed as described later has the following characteristics.
Tensile strength: 148.6N (longitudinal direction), 198N (longitudinal direction)
Elongation: 187.5% (warp direction), 76.2% (latitude direction)
Inspection by JIS L1018 (grab method) (hereinafter the same applies to tensile strength and elongation)
“Tensile strength” indicates the magnitude of the load when the fabric is pulled and broken under a predetermined load, that is, the tensile strength when the fabric 1 is broken. The “elongation rate” indicates the magnitude of elongation at the time of breaking, that is, the elongation rate when the fabric 1 is broken. For example, if the elongation rate is 70%, it indicates that the film has broken after being elongated 1.7 times from the original state.

Note that the above characteristic is an example, and
Tensile strength: 135-165N (longitudinal direction), 180-220N (weft direction)
Elongation: 175 to 195% (warp direction), 65 to 85% (lat direction)
It is desirable to be within the range.

  Next, the manufacturing process of the stretchable fabric using the fabric 1 will be described with reference to FIG. As shown in FIG. 2, the manufacturing process of the stretchable fabric according to the present embodiment includes a tentering step, a dipping step, a spreading step, and a drying step, and is sequentially performed on the fabric 1 described above. Hereinafter, each step will be described.

The tentering step is a presetting step, that is, a step of performing tentering by applying tension to the fabric 1 so as not to shrink in the weft direction and applying heat treatment in a predetermined temperature range. In this example, a tentering machine such as a pin tenter is used for the tentering process, where tension is applied in the weft direction and heating is performed while conveying in the warp direction. By performing this process, it is performed for the purpose of improving the dimensional stability of the fabric 1 after the dipping process of the next process. Here, the tension applied in the weft direction is generated by holding the end portion of the fabric in order to prevent the fabric from contracting in the weft direction due to the heat treatment. The processing conditions in the tentering process are as follows. These processing conditions are examples, and may be appropriately changed according to the type of each constituent yarn, the type of fabric, and the like. Further, even for the same type, the processing conditions may be adjusted by increasing the heating temperature and increasing the conveying speed.
Heating temperature: 175 ° C to 185 ° C
Heating time: 1 minute Widening ratio: Width or extension ratio: Width or width Conveying speed: 8 m / min

Thus, the weft direction of the fabric 1 that has undergone the tentering step is 104 cm, and the characteristics of the fabric 1 described above change as follows.
Tensile strength: 166.6N (longitudinal direction), 231.5N (longitudinal direction)
Elongation: 145.7% (warp direction), 70.7% (lat direction)

Note that the above characteristic is an example, and
Tensile strength: 150-180N (longitudinal direction), 210-250N (longitudinal direction)
Elongation rate: 135 to 155% (warp direction), 60 to 80% (lat direction)
It is desirable to be within the range.

  Thus, the tensile strength of the fabric 1 increases in both the warp direction and the weft direction and the elongation decreases in both the warp direction and the weft direction. In particular, the decrease in elongation in the warp direction is large and the stretchability is deteriorated.

Next, the immersing step is a step of immersing the fabric 1 that has undergone the tentering step in a liquid heated to a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step, and causing the fabric 1 to contract in the warp direction. In this example, the dipping process is a process of performing a dyeing process by reactive dyeing, a washing process for promoting fastness, and a dehydrating process using a batch type dyeing machine such as a Wins dyeing machine. This dyeing is performed according to conditions for dyeing the weft constituent yarn of the fabric 1. Therefore, even if the warp constituent yarn is dyed by this, the dyeing concentration of the weft constituent yarn is higher than the dyeing concentration of the warp yarn. The treatment conditions in the dipping process are as follows. These processing conditions are examples, and may be appropriately changed according to the type of each constituent yarn, the type of fabric, etc., but the processing is performed at a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step.
Dyeing conditions: 60 ° C dyeing
Washing conditions: boiling water, water washing, hot water washing, FIX (color stop) treatment, etc. Dehydration conditions: 90%

  In the meantime, the elastic bandage such as the fabric 1 has not been dyed until now, but even in the case where no dyeing is performed, in the production method of the present invention, instead of the dyeing treatment, heating is performed. The water is immersed in boiling water, for example, boiling water.

  Next, the spreading process is a process of spreading the fabric 1 that has undergone the dipping process by applying tension in the weft direction without drying. The fabric 1 that has been dehydrated by the dipping process is wrinkled by dyeing, washing, and dehydration treatment, and the flatness of the fabric and the linearity of the end portion of the fabric (particularly along the warp direction) are deteriorated. Become. In this cloth spreading step, the cloth is stretched in the weft direction to spread the cloth, thereby extending the wrinkles and improving the flatness of the cloth 1 and the linearity of the end portion.

  And as shown in FIG. 3, you may fold and pile up the fabric 1 by the fold along a weft direction (direction b). Thereby, flatness other than a crease can be improved more by the dead weight of the fabric 1 which is not dried. The spreading process may be performed using a tenter such as a clip tenter or manually. Further, the fabric may be spread by applying more tension to the warp direction which greatly expands and contracts, but the stretch applied is less than the weft direction in order to prevent the fabric 1 from being stretched excessively. It is desirable.

  This spreading step is performed without drying, and it is assumed that heating drying is not performed. However, natural drying during the treatment may occur, and moisture indicating the proportion of moisture contained in the fabric 1 Spreading may be terminated before the rate falls below a predetermined value. Here, if the water content becomes a predetermined value or less before the wrinkle is stretched, the wrinkles generated in the dipping process remain in the fabric 1, and the remaining wrinkles are removed unless setting is performed by heat treatment with tension applied. Can not. That is, the moisture content equal to or lower than a predetermined value means a moisture content such that wrinkles remain on the fabric 1 when the fabric 1 having the moisture content is dried without applying tension.

  In addition, when the dipping step is performed without performing the above-described widening step, a very large number of wrinkles are generated, and the shrinkage of the fabric 1 is too large. The flatness obtained by the spreading process of the present application and the linearity of the end portion of the fabric 1 cannot be obtained unless the heat treatment is applied.

Next, in the drying process, the fabric 1 expanded in the expansion process is conveyed in the warp direction without applying tension in the weft direction, and is subjected to a heat treatment at a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering process. It is a step of drying. In this example, the drying process uses a suction dryer, and heats and dries the fabric 1 in the warp direction. This heating should just be sufficient temperature to dry a water | moisture content. The processing conditions of the drying process are as follows. These processing conditions are examples, and may be appropriately changed according to the type of each constituent yarn, the type of fabric, and the like. Further, even for the same type, the processing conditions may be adjusted by increasing the heating temperature and increasing the conveying speed.
Drying temperature: 95 ° C to 110 ° C
Drying time: 4 minutes Conveying speed: 2 m / min

Thus, the weft direction of the fabric 1 which passed through the drying process becomes 103 cm, and the warp direction shrinks to 86% of the length of the fabric 1 before the tentering process. And the characteristic of the fabric 1 mentioned above changes as follows.
Tensile strength: 165.4N (warp direction), 150N (lat direction)
Elongation rate: 156.33% (longitudinal direction), 69.3% (longitudinal direction)
Further, the burst strength was 327 kPa (JIS L1018 (Mullen type method)). “Burst strength” indicates the magnitude of a load when a load is applied from the surface of the fabric and the fabric is torn.

Note that the above characteristic is an example, and
Tensile strength: 150 to 180 N (warp direction), 135 to 165 N (wet direction)
Elongation: 145 to 165% (warp direction), 60 to 80% (lat direction)
It is desirable to be within the range.

  As described above, the tensile strength of the fabric 1 is hardly changed in the warp direction and greatly decreased in the weft direction by the dipping process, the spreading process, and the drying process. On the other hand, the elongation increases in the warp direction, but there is almost no change in the weft direction. Due to the increase in the elongation in the warp direction, part of the stretchability deteriorated in the tentering process can be recovered. On the other hand, in the conventional process, after the drying process, the flatness of the fabric 1 and the linearity of the end cannot be sufficiently ensured. As a result, the elongation rate is further deteriorated.

  This is because the fabric 1 that has undergone the drying process is only subjected to tension necessary for conveyance in the warp direction, and is dried without tension in the weft direction. The linearity is close to that obtained by the spreading process, and the deterioration of stretchability can be prevented.

  Thus, in the manufacturing method of the stretchable fabric according to the embodiment of the present invention, for the fabric 1 such as the stretchable bandage, the tentering step is performed before the dipping step, and the spreading step is performed after the dipping step. Therefore, the flatness and edge linearity of the fabric 1 can be secured without performing heat treatment (setting) while applying tension to improve dimensional stability after the dipping process, and dimensional stability. Sex is obtained. Therefore, in the cutting of the fabric 1 performed before sewing using the fabric 1, a plurality of the fabrics 1 are arranged after being arranged in a desired positional relationship (such as a relationship in which the weft ends of the fabric 1 are aligned). It is possible to easily perform the cutting process. Moreover, since the setting is not performed after the stretchability of the fabric 1 is improved by the dipping process, deterioration of the improved stretchability can be prevented. That is, between the drying process and the cutting process for cutting, a process of applying a tension to the fabric 1 and performing a heat treatment is not included. For example, drying is performed until the cutting process is performed. It is desirable to keep the temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the process and to prevent tension in the weft direction.

  As mentioned above, although embodiment of this invention was described, this invention can be implemented in various aspects as follows.

<Modification 1>
The fabric 1 manufactured by the method for manufacturing a stretchable fabric in the embodiment described above may be cut and garment sewn. For example, the edge in the weft direction of the fabric 1 may be cut and sewn so as to be used for the foot portion of underwear such as pants. The cutting may be performed in a state where a plurality of fabrics 1 are overlapped and the end portions in the weft direction of these fabrics 1 are aligned. Thereby, since it is not necessary to separately process the fabric edge at the foot portion touching the foot, there is no discontinuity such as the thickness of the fabric at the foot portion, and a comfortable feeling without a sense of incongruity is obtained. In addition, since the direction parallel to the foot line corresponds to the warp direction of the highly stretchable fabric 1, by supporting the periphery of the foot and the buttocks with appropriate stretchability, The following performance can be obtained and the load applied to the body can be reduced. Furthermore, since the weft-constituting yarn uses cellulose fibers such as cotton, it is possible to ensure breathability while being excellent in stretchability.

1 ... Fabric

Claims (8)

A tentering step of tentering a fabric formed by warp knitting and having a warp direction higher in elasticity than the weft direction by applying tension to the fabric so that the weft direction does not shrink and applying heat treatment in a predetermined temperature range; ,
An immersion step of immersing in the liquid heated to a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the extending step and shrinking in the warp direction with respect to the fabric that has been extended in the extending step;
A spreading step of spreading the fabric soaked in the dipping step by applying tension in the weft direction while maintaining a state where the moisture content in the fabric is equal to or higher than a predetermined value;
The fabric expanded in the expansion step is transported in the warp direction without applying tension in the weft direction, and dried by performing a heat treatment at a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step. A drying process ;
A method for producing a stretchable fabric, comprising: a step of cutting a plurality of the fabrics dried by the drying step in a state where the weft ends of each fabric are aligned . The method for producing a stretchable fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the fabric is maintained at a temperature lower than a temperature of the heat treatment in the drying step between the cutting step and the drying step . 3. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein polyurethane-based fibers and polyester-based fibers are used for the warp direction constituent yarns, and cellulosic fibers are used for the weft direction constituent yarns. 4. A method for producing an elastic fabric. The fabric is dyed by dipping in a heated liquid in the dipping step, and the dyeing concentration of the constituent yarns in the weft direction is higher than the dyeing concentration of the constituent yarns in the warp direction. The manufacturing method of the stretchable cloth in any one of thru | or 3. The elongation at break of the fabric before the tentering step is 175% to 195% in the warp direction and 65% to 85% in the weft direction,
The elongation at break of the fabric after the tentering step is 135% to 155% in the warp direction and 60% to 80% in the weft direction,
The elongation at break of the fabric after the drying step is 145% to 165% in the warp direction and 60% to 80% in the weft direction. A method for producing a stretchable fabric according to claim 1. The tensile strength at break of the fabric before the tentering step is that the tensile strength in the warp direction is 135N to 165N, and the weft direction is 180N to 220N,
The tensile strength at break of the fabric after the tentering step is that the tensile strength in the warp direction is 150N to 180N, and the weft direction is 210N to 250N,
The tensile strength at break of the fabric after the drying step is that the tensile strength in the warp direction is 150N to 180N, and the weft direction is 135N to 165N. The manufacturing method of the elastic fabric in any one. The method for producing a stretchable fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the burst strength of the fabric after the drying step is 300 kPa to 350 kPa. A tentering step of tentering a fabric formed by warp knitting and having a warp direction higher in elasticity than the weft direction by applying tension to the fabric so that the weft direction does not shrink and applying heat treatment within a predetermined temperature range ,
An immersion step of immersing in the liquid heated to a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the extending step and shrinking in the warp direction with respect to the fabric that has been extended in the extending step;
A spreading step of spreading the fabric soaked in the dipping step by applying tension in the weft direction while maintaining a state where the moisture content in the fabric is equal to or higher than a predetermined value;
The fabric expanded in the expansion step is transported in the warp direction without applying tension in the weft direction, and dried by performing a heat treatment at a temperature lower than the temperature of the heat treatment in the tentering step. A drying process;
A cutting step of stacking a plurality of the fabrics dried by the drying step and cutting the fabrics in a state in which the end portions in the weft direction of each fabric are aligned,
A sewing step of sewing an undergarment from the fabric using an end portion in the weft direction of the fabric cut by the cutting step as a foot portion; and
The manufacturing method of the elastic underwear characterized by comprising.

Images