JP4706103B2 - Polyester blended yarn - Google Patents
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- JP4706103B2 JP4706103B2 JP2000376378A JP2000376378A JP4706103B2 JP 4706103 B2 JP4706103 B2 JP 4706103B2 JP 2000376378 A JP2000376378 A JP 2000376378A JP 2000376378 A JP2000376378 A JP 2000376378A JP 4706103 B2 JP4706103 B2 JP 4706103B2
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Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、ポリスチレンが芯、ポリエステルが鞘を構成している芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAと、高収縮性を示す第3成分が共重合されたポリエステルマルチフィラメントBで構成されたポリエステル混繊糸に関するものである。さらに詳しくは該混繊糸を織編物とした後、通常染色加工を実施することによって織編物にソフトでかつしなやかな表面感を発現させることが可能でさらには、前記2種のフィラメント群の熱収縮差に起因する糸長差によって織編物に大きなふくらみを付与できるポリエステル混繊糸に関する。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
ポリエステルは優れた機械的特性を有しているために、衣料用途から資材用途まで幅広い分野で利用されている。衣料用途では天然繊維の持つ風合いや機能性をいかにして付与させるかということを目的として開発が進められてきた。
【0003】
ふくらみやソフト感に富んだ織編物を得るには構成するフィラメント間に適度に大きな糸長差を付与させることが有効である。従来よりこの糸長差を付与させる手段として収縮、伸度、単糸繊度など性質が互いに異なる2種以上のマルチフィラメントを別々に紡糸した後、延伸工程、仮撚り工程などの後工程で混繊する後混繊法が広く利用されている。
【0004】
一例として、収縮差を利用した混繊糸ではより大きな収縮差を与えるために、芯糸になる高収縮糸と、鞘糸になる熱処理で伸長挙動を示すいわゆる自発伸長糸をそれぞれ別々に紡糸した後に混繊してできた混繊糸を用いて織編物とし、その後の通常染色加工で大きな糸長差を発現させてふくらみを増大させる手段などが最近注目されている。このように後混繊法ではそれぞれのマルチフィラメントに適した条件で紡糸条件や延伸条件が設定可能であるので、マルチフィラメント間の糸長差を大きくすることに関しては大変効果的であるが、芯糸、鞘糸とそれぞれ別工程で製造した上で後混繊するというものであるために工程数が必然的に多くなり高コストになってしまうという欠点がある。
【0005】
こうした問題を解決する策として紡糸混繊技術が検討され、ポリマーの質や単糸繊度が異なる2種以上のマルチフィラメントを同一口金で同時紡糸する方法が開発された。例えば芯糸にイソフタル酸などの高収縮性を示す第3成分を共重合させた高収縮糸を配し、鞘糸に通常のPETを低収縮糸として配し、同一口金で同時紡糸・混繊した後巻き取るといったものである。これを延伸して得られた混繊糸を織編物に用いると収縮差が充分に発現するためふくらみ感としては充分なものが得られる。しかし、芯糸、鞘糸が同時紡糸・同時延伸のために織編物のソフト感に大きな影響を与える鞘糸も芯糸と同程度の配向促進が進むために初期ヤング率が大きくなり、織編物としたときに表面のソフト感、しなやかさの点では満足のいかないものになるという欠点がある。
【0006】
また、同じポリマーを用いて染色工程などで糸長差を発現する混繊糸を得るために、単糸繊度の異なる2種以上のマルチフィラメントを紡糸混繊する技術も検討されているが、単糸繊度差による紡糸工程での冷却速度の違いから細単糸繊度のマルチフィラメントが太単糸繊度のマルチフィラメントより高配向になるために熱収縮率が増加し、後の熱処理時で収縮が発現する際に細単糸繊度のマルチフィラメントが混繊糸の芯部を、太単糸繊度のマルチフィラメントが鞘部を形成することになり、織編物としたときに堅いタッチとなってしまう問題が生じてしまう。
【0007】
本発明品と同じように配向抑制効果を持つ物質を利用した配向度差を有する混繊糸も過去に紹介されている。例えば特公昭57−143522号公報では添加方式による同様の技術が紹介されているが、添加方式では添加ポリマーによる悪影響が問題となる。例えば、添加ポリマーが繊維表面に存在することによる発色不良や、添加のムラによって糸切れや染色ムラが発生するといったものである。
【0008】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は上記のような問題点を解決するために、鞘糸が芯糸よりソフトでしなやかであり、さらには織編後の通常の染色加工の実施により2種のマルチフィラメント間の熱収縮差に起因する大きな糸長差を発現させて織編物に大きなふくらみとソフト感を付与できるポリエステル混繊糸を低コストで提供することを目的とするものである。
【0009】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明のポリエステル混繊糸は上記の課題を解決するために次の構成を有する。 (1)ポリスチレンが芯、ポリエステルが鞘を構成している芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAと、高収縮性を示す第3成分が共重合されたポリエステルマルチフィラメントBで構成され、前記芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAの単糸の初期ヤング率をEa(cN/dtex)、およびポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の初期ヤング率をEb(cN/dtex)が次式[1]〜[2]の範囲を満たすことを特徴とするポリエステル混繊糸。
【0010】
20≦Ea≦50 ・・・[1]
50≦Eb ・・・[2]
(2)ポリスチレンが芯、ポリエステルが鞘を構成している芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAと、高収縮性を示す第3成分が共重合されたポリエステルマルチフィラメントBで構成され、前記芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAの芯部を構成するポリスチレンが繊維軸方向に断続的に破断していて、隣接する破断部と破断部の間隔が5mm以下であることを特徴とする前記(1)に記載のポリエステル混繊糸。
【0011】
(3)ポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の平均破断伸度が30%以上70%以下で、芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAの単糸の平均破断伸度がポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の平均破断伸度より20%以上大きいことを特徴とする前記(1)または(2)に記載のポリエステル混繊糸。
【0012】
(4)沸収処理後に180℃の乾熱処理を実施した後の芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAとポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの分解糸の糸長差が10%以上40%以下であることを特徴とする前記(1)〜(3)のいずれかに記載のポリエステル混繊糸。
【0013】
(5)マルチフィラメントAの単糸繊度Daと、ポリエステルフィラメントBの単糸繊度をDbとが、次式[3]の関係を満たすこと特徴とする前記(1)〜(4)のいずれかに記載のポリエステル混繊糸。
【0014】
Da≦Db ・・・[3]
【0015】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明についてさらに詳しく説明する。
【0016】
まず、本発明の混繊糸はポリスチレンが芯、ポリエステルが鞘を構成している芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAと、高収縮性を示す第3成分が共重合されたポリエステルマルチフィラメントBで構成されたものである。
【0017】
マルチフィラメントAを芯にポリスチレン、鞘にポリエステルとする芯/鞘型の複合糸とする理由は、ポリスチレンポリマーがポリエステルポリマーの配向促進を抑制する効果を利用するためである。
【0018】
この効果により、ポリスチレンポリマーを複合したポリエステルポリマーと高収縮性を示すポリエステルポリマーを同時に紡糸したとき、前者は後者より配向が抑制されたフィラメントとなるので低収縮かつ高伸度の糸になり、通常糸よりも初期ヤング率が小さい糸になる。したがって、曲げ剛性も小さくなるため、織編物としたときソフトでしなやかな風合いを発現させることができるのである。
【0019】
そしてマルチフィラメントAは、芯部のポリスチレンが、破断部を除いて繊維軸方向に一定量で存在し、繊維表面に露出していないことが重要である。これを満たしていれば芯/鞘複合の形態には特に制約がなく、芯部が偏心していても、同心円であってもかまわない。
【0020】
マルチフィラメントAのポリスチレンの複合比率については、重量比で3〜10%であることが望ましく、さらに好ましくは重量比で4〜6%である。含有量が3%に満たないときは、ポリスチレンによる配向抑制効果が乏しく、必要とする芯糸と鞘糸の間の初期ヤング率の差を得ることができない。逆に10%を越えてしまうと、鞘部を構成するポリエステルにクラックが生じたりして強度低下の原因となったり、さらにひどい場合にはクラックからポリスチレンが外に飛び出してしまうので好ましくない。
【0021】
マルチフィラメントAは染色工程の熱処理時の収縮挙動により低収縮サイドの糸となるため混繊糸の鞘部を構成することになるので織編物の表面部を形成することになる。したがって、織編物に十分なソフト感を付与するためにはマルチフィラメントAの単糸の初期ヤング率Eaは50cN/dtex以下であることが重要で、50cN/dtexより大きくなるとソフトな表面タッチは得られなくなってしまう。しかし逆に初期ヤング率が小さすぎると、すなわち配向の程度が低すぎると糸の破断伸度が大きくなり織編物としたときにフロスティングの問題が生じてしまう。糸の破断伸度が大きくなりすぎないためには初期ヤング率Eaは20cN/dtex以上であることが重要である。
【0022】
また、マルチフィラメントAは、芯部を構成するポリスチレンが繊維軸方向に断続的に破断していることが重要である。これによってマルチフィラメントAの破断部の曲げモーメントが非破断部の曲げモーメントより小さくなるので、配向抑制による低初期ヤング率の効果と相乗して、混繊糸を織編物としたときによりソフトでしなやかな感触を付与することができるのである。このとき隣接する破断部と破断部の間隔(図1参照)が大きいと曲げモーメント減少の効果がなくなるので間隔は5mm以下、好ましくは3mm以下であることが重要である。
【0023】
織編物に大きなふくらみ感、ソフト感を付与するためには、繊維間の空隙を増大させることが需要であり、そのためには、芯糸と鞘糸の糸長差を大きくすることが重要である。したがって、芯糸となるポリエステルマルチフィラメントBは高収縮性を示すことが重要であり、そのために本発明においてはイソフタル酸などの高収縮性を示す第3成分が共重合されたポリエステルを用いるものである。
【0024】
また、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントBは染色工程の熱処理時の収縮挙動により混繊糸の芯部を構成し、織編物の反発性やハリ感、コシ感に大きな影響を与えるわけであるが、その役割を果たすためにはマルチフィラメントBの単糸の初期ヤング率Ebは50cN/dtex以上であることが重要である。
【0025】
また、本発明の混繊糸を織編物としたとき、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントBは混繊糸の芯部を構成することになり、織編物の引裂き強度に大きく影響するのであるが、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の平均破断伸度が30%未満であると、製織準備工程などで毛羽が発生して工程通過性に問題が生じたり、織編後の引裂き強力の低下の原因となったりするのでポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の平均破断伸度は30%以上であることが重要である。しかし、混繊糸の芯糸の単糸の平均破断伸度が大きすぎると織編物にグロウスの問題が生じてしまうのでポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の平均破断伸度としては70%以下であることが重要である。ところが、混繊糸の鞘部を構成する芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAもポリエステルマルチフィラメントBと同程度に高度に配向された延伸糸であるとヌメリ感が強くなるという問題がある。しかし、このヌメリ感は伸度が大きくなるほど解消されるため、芯/鞘型複合マルチフィラメントAの単糸の平均破断伸度はポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの単糸の平均破断伸度より20%以上大きいことが重要である。
【0026】
また、織編物に充分なふくらみを与えるためには、混繊糸を沸収処理を30分間実施後180℃の乾熱処理を15分間実施したとき、マルチフィラメントAとポリエステルマルチフィラメントBの分解糸の糸長差が10%以上であることが好ましいが、逆に大きすぎるとふかつき感の強い織編物となるので分解糸糸長差は40%以下であることが重要である。
【0027】
なお本発明の混繊糸は繊度、単糸繊度、フィラメント数、断面形状には制約がなく、例えば断面形状については中空や3葉などの異形断面であってもよく、2種のマルチフィラメント間にそうした違いが存在していてもよい。しかし、織編物に反発性とソフト感を持たせるためには、反発性に寄与する芯糸の単糸繊度を太く、ソフト感に寄与する鞘糸の繊度を細くすることが好ましく、したがって、芯糸となるマルチフィラメントBの単糸繊度Dbが鞘糸となるマルチフィラメントAの単糸繊度Da以上とすることが好ましい。すなわち、Da≦Dbの関係を満足するものであることが好ましい。
【0028】
また、マルチフィラメントAのポリエステル部分およびポリエステルマルチフィラメントBには発色向上、艶消しなどを目的として粒子が添加されたものであってもよい。
【0029】
【実施例】
次に、本発明を実施例および図面により具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれにより限定されるものではない。なお本文中および実施例記載の各物性値は以下の測定方法によるものである。
(1)単糸の初期ヤング率
混繊糸を単糸一本一本に分解した後、インストロン社製引張り試験機を用いて、試長2cm、引張り速度2cm/minで引張り試験を行う。得られたS−S曲線の立ち上がりカーブの傾きの直線を延長して、伸度100%時での強力を求めてその値を単糸繊度で割った値(cN/dtex)とする。芯糸鞘糸それぞれについて異なる単糸5本(単糸数が足りない時は同一単糸から複数のサンプリングをする)の測定値の平均値をもって測定値とする。なお、芯糸と鞘糸の区別はS−Sカーブの形状から明らかに区別できる。
(2)単糸の平均破断伸度
混繊糸を単糸一本一本に分解した後、インストロン社製引張り試験機を用いて、試長2cm、引張り速度2cm/minで測定を行う。測定回数5回の平均値をもって測定値とする。なお、芯糸と鞘糸の区別はS−Sカーブの形状から明らかに区別できる。
(3)ポリスチレンの破断部の間隔
混繊糸を単糸に分解して、光学顕微鏡で写真を撮り鞘糸単糸について破断部と破断部の間隔5点の距離の平均値を求める。これを鞘糸単糸10本(単糸数が足りない時は同一単糸から複数のサンプリングをする)について測定し、それらの平均値をもって測定値とする(図1)。
(4)分解糸糸長差
適当な長さの糸を取り出し、繊維自体が伸びないように注意深く単糸1本1本に分解する。グリセリンを塗布したスケール板上に分解した単糸をのせて、捲縮やくせがなくなる程度に伸ばして単糸1本の長さLをはかる(1mm単位まで)。長さの短い単糸群と長い単糸群に分類し、短い単糸群の平均長をL1、長い単糸群をL2として次式により算出する。測定回数5回の平均値をもってその測定値とする。
【0030】
分解糸糸長差(%)={(L2−L1)/L1}×100
(5)風合い特性
カトーテック株式会社製の布の風合い計測のために設計された布試験システム(KES)で計測する。
【0031】
(実施例1)
イソフタル酸8モル%と2−2ビス[4−(2−ヒドロキシエトキシ)フェニル]プロパン5モル%と合計87モル%のエチレングリコール及びテレフタル酸とを共重合させた3葉断面ポリエステルと芯部にポリスチレンを重量比で4.5%複合させた3葉断面ポリエステルとを同一口金で紡速3000m/minで同時紡糸・混繊した後、通常延伸し、60dtex−36フィラメント(芯糸:30dtex−18フィラメント、鞘糸:30dtex−18フィラメント)の混繊糸を得た。
【0032】
得られた混繊糸を単糸一本一本に分解し、それぞれの単糸の強伸度を測定して得られた強伸度曲線から初期ヤング率を求めたところ、共重合成分を含むマルチフィラメント(織編物としたときに芯糸を構成するので以下芯糸と記す)の単糸の初期ヤング率Ebは58.7cN/dtexで、ポリスチレンを複合しているマルチフィラメント(織編物としたときに鞘糸を構成するので以下鞘糸と記す)の単糸の初期ヤング率は27.3cN/dtexであった。また混繊糸を沸収処理後に180℃で乾収処理した後の芯鞘間の分解糸糸長差は27.8%であった。さらに、芯糸の単糸の破断伸度は28.1%、鞘糸の単糸の破断伸度は64.2%であった。さらに、隣接する破断部と破断部の間隔は2.2mmであった。
【0033】
次にこの混繊糸を200T/mの実撚を施し、糊付けを実施した後タテ糸とし、ヨコ糸として83dtex−72フィラメントの通常ポリエステル延伸糸をS撚りZ撚りそれぞれ2500T/m実撚した糸を2本交互に用いてサテンを製織した。製織した布帛をリラックス精練した後、180℃でセットし、17%のアルカリ減量加工を施し、ひき続き液流染色機を用い分散染料で染色した後160℃でファイナルセットした。得られた織物は大きなふくらみおよびソフトな風合いを持ち、しなやかな表面感を有していた。表1に糸物性およびKESの風合い特性値を示す。
【0034】
(実施例2)
イソフタル酸8モル%と2−2ビス[4−(2−ヒドロキシエトキシ)フェニル]プロパン5モル%と合計87モル%のエチレングリコール及びテレフタル酸とを共重合させた丸中空ポリエステルと芯部にポリスチレンを重量比で4.5%複合させた3葉断面ポリエステルとを同一口金で紡速3000m/minで同時紡糸・混繊した後、通常延伸し、60dtex−27フィラメント(芯糸:30dtex−9フィラメント、鞘糸30dtex−18フィラメント)の混繊糸を得た。
【0035】
得られた混繊糸の芯糸の単糸の初期ヤング率は65.5cN/dtex、鞘糸の単糸の初期ヤング率は27.4%であった。また混繊糸を沸収処理後に180℃で乾収処理した後の芯鞘間の分解糸糸長差は29.1%であった。さらに、芯糸の単糸の破断伸度は29.1%、鞘糸の単糸の破断伸度は68.1%であった。さらに、隣接する破断部と破断部の間隔は3.2mmであった。
【0036】
この混繊糸に実施例1と同様200T/mの実撚を施した後、糊付けを実施してタテ糸とし、実施例1と同様の製織および仕上げ加工を施して織物を得た。得られた織物は実施例1で得られた織物同様大きなふくらみ、ソフトな風合いを有していた。表1に糸物性およびKESの風合い特性値を示す。
【0037】
(比較例1)
イソフタル酸8モル%と2−2ビス[4−(2−ヒドロキシエトキシ)フェニル]プロパン5モル%と合計87モル%のエチレングリコールおよびテレフタル酸とを共重合させた3葉断面ポリエステルと通常の3葉断面ポリエステルとを同一口金で紡速3000m/minで紡糸混繊した後通常延伸して55dtex−24フィラメント(芯糸:27.5dtex−12フィラメント、鞘糸:27.5dtex−12フィラメント)の混繊糸を得た。得られた混繊糸を実施例1と同様の方法で初期ヤング率を測定したところ、芯糸と鞘糸の差は明確ではなく、ほぼ同一のS−Sカーブで初期ヤング#率は63cN/dtexであった。また混繊糸を沸収処理後に180℃で乾収処理した後の芯鞘間の分解糸糸長差は24.2%であった。さらに、芯糸の単糸の破断伸度は31.1%、鞘糸の単糸の破断伸は34.1%であった。
【0038】
この混繊糸に200T/mの実撚を施し、糊付けしてタテ糸とし、ヨコ糸として83dtex−72フィラメントの通常ポリエステル延伸糸をS撚りZ撚りそれぞれ2500T/m実撚した糸を2本交互に用いてサテンを製織した。製織後の布帛を実施例1と同様の染色工程で仕上げた布帛はふくらみはそこそこあるものの、ソフトさに欠け表面感もしなやかさに欠けるものであった。表1に糸物性およびKESの風合い特性値を示す。
【0039】
(比較例2)
イソフタル酸を共重合していない通常の3葉断面ポリエステルと芯部にポリスチレンを4.5%複合させた3葉断面ポリエステルを同一口金で紡速3000m/minで紡糸混繊した後通常延伸して、60dtex−36フィラメント(芯糸:30dtex−18フィラメント、鞘糸:30dtex−18フィラメント)の混繊糸を得た。
【0040】
得られた混繊糸の芯糸の単糸の初期ヤング率は60.7cN/dtexで、鞘糸の単糸の初期ヤング率は26.5cN/dtexであった。また混繊糸を沸収処理後に180℃で乾収処理した後の芯鞘間の分解糸糸長差は8.9%であった。さらに、芯糸の単糸の破断伸度は30.5%、鞘糸の単糸の破断伸度は70.5%であった。
【0041】
得られた混繊糸に200T/mの撚糸を施し、実施例1と同様の織物を製織したところ、表面のソフト感は得られたものの、ふくらみ感に欠けるものであった。表1に糸物性およびKESの風合い特性値を示す。
【0042】
【表1】
【0043】
【発明の効果】
本発明のポリエステル混繊糸は、鞘糸の単糸の初期ヤング率が芯糸の単糸の初期ヤング率よりも大幅に小さいこと、鞘糸の芯部を構成するポリスチレンが連続的に破断していることで織編物にしたときにソフトでしなやかな表面感を有し、さらには2種のマルチフィラメント間の熱収縮差に起因する糸長差によって、織編後の通常の染色加工を実施することによって大きなふくらみを有するものである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明にかかる芯鞘型複合マルチフィラメントの単糸の一例を示す繊維軸方向の断面図である。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyester blend comprising a core / sheath composite multifilament A in which polystyrene is the core and polyester is the sheath, and a polyester multifilament B in which a third component exhibiting high shrinkage is copolymerized. It relates to yarn. More specifically, after the mixed yarn is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to express a soft and supple surface feeling on the woven or knitted fabric by carrying out a normal dyeing process. The present invention relates to a polyester mixed yarn that can impart a large bulge to a woven or knitted fabric due to a difference in yarn length caused by a shrinkage difference.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Since polyester has excellent mechanical properties, it is used in a wide range of fields from apparel use to material use. In clothing applications, development has been progressing for the purpose of imparting the texture and functionality of natural fibers.
[0003]
In order to obtain a woven or knitted fabric rich in swell and softness, it is effective to impart a reasonably large yarn length difference between the constituting filaments. Conventionally, as a means for imparting this difference in yarn length, two or more types of multifilaments having different properties such as shrinkage, elongation, and single yarn fineness are separately spun and then mixed in subsequent steps such as a drawing step and false twisting step. The post-mixing method is widely used.
[0004]
As an example, in order to give a larger shrinkage difference in a mixed fiber using a shrinkage difference, a high shrinkage yarn that becomes a core yarn and a so-called spontaneous stretch yarn that exhibits elongation behavior by heat treatment that becomes a sheath yarn are spun separately. Recently, attention has been paid to a means for increasing a bulge by producing a woven or knitted fabric using a blended yarn that has been blended later, and developing a large yarn length difference in the subsequent normal dyeing process. Thus, in the post-mixing method, spinning conditions and drawing conditions can be set under conditions suitable for each multifilament, so it is very effective for increasing the yarn length difference between multifilaments. Since the yarns and sheath yarns are manufactured in separate processes, and then mixed afterwards, the number of processes is inevitably increased, resulting in a high cost.
[0005]
As a measure to solve these problems, a spinning and blending technique has been studied, and a method of simultaneously spinning two or more types of multifilaments having different polymer quality and single yarn fineness with the same die has been developed. For example, the core yarn is provided with a highly shrinkable yarn obtained by copolymerizing a third component exhibiting high shrinkage such as isophthalic acid, and the sheath yarn is provided with ordinary PET as a low shrinkage yarn. And then winding it up. When the mixed yarn obtained by stretching this is used for a woven or knitted fabric, a sufficient difference in shrinkage is exhibited, so that a sufficient swell feeling can be obtained. However, since the core yarn and sheath yarn have a great influence on the soft feeling of the woven or knitted fabric due to simultaneous spinning and simultaneous drawing, the initial Young's modulus of the woven and knitted fabric is also increased because of the same orientation promotion as the core yarn. However, there is a drawback that the surface becomes soft and unsatisfactory in terms of flexibility.
[0006]
In addition, in order to obtain a blended yarn that exhibits a yarn length difference in the dyeing process using the same polymer, a technique of spinning and blending two or more types of multifilaments having different single yarn fineness has been studied. Due to the difference in cooling rate in the spinning process due to the difference in yarn fineness, the multifilament with fine single yarn fineness becomes higher orientation than the multifilament with thick single yarn fineness, so the thermal shrinkage rate increases, and shrinkage occurs during the subsequent heat treatment When this is done, the multifilament with fine single yarn fineness will form the core of the blended yarn, and the multifilament with fine single yarn fineness will form the sheath, resulting in a tight touch when used as a woven or knitted fabric. It will occur.
[0007]
In the past, mixed yarns having a difference in degree of orientation using a substance having an effect of suppressing the orientation as in the present invention have been introduced. For example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-143522 discloses a similar technique based on the addition method, but the addition method has a problem of adverse effects due to the added polymer. For example, coloring failure due to the presence of the added polymer on the fiber surface, and thread breakage or dyeing unevenness may occur due to the unevenness of the addition.
[0008]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention is such that the sheath yarn is softer and more supple than the core yarn, and further, the difference in heat shrinkage between the two types of multifilaments by carrying out the normal dyeing process after weaving. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester blended yarn capable of giving a large swell and soft feeling to a woven or knitted fabric at a low cost by expressing a large yarn length difference due to the above.
[0009]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The polyester blended yarn of the present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the above problems. (1) The core / sheath composite multifilament A in which polystyrene is the core and polyester is the sheath, and the polyester multifilament B in which the third component exhibiting high shrinkage is copolymerized, the core / sheath The initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the mold composite multifilament A is Ea (cN / dtex), and the initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the polyester multifilament B is Eb (cN / dtex) of the following formulas [1] to [2] Polyester mixed yarn characterized by satisfying the range.
[0010]
20 ≦ Ea ≦ 50 [1]
50 ≦ Eb [2]
(2) The core / sheath composite multifilament A in which polystyrene is the core and polyester is the sheath, and the polyester multifilament B in which the third component exhibiting high shrinkage is copolymerized, the core / sheath (1), wherein the polystyrene constituting the core part of the mold composite multifilament A is intermittently broken in the fiber axis direction, and the distance between the adjacent broken parts and the broken parts is 5 mm or less. polyester combined filament yarn.
[0011]
(3) The average breaking elongation of single yarn of polyester multifilament B is 30% or more and 70% or less, and the average breaking elongation of single yarn of core / sheath type composite multifilament A is the average of single yarn of polyester multifilament B above, wherein the more than 20% greater elongation at break (1) or a polyester combined filament yarn according to (2).
[0012]
(4) The yarn length difference between the split yarns of the core / sheath type composite multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B after carrying out a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. after boiling is 10% or more and 40% or less. The polyester blended yarn according to any one of (1) to (3).
[0013]
(5) The single yarn fineness Da of the multifilament A and the single yarn fineness Db of the polyester filament B satisfy the relationship of the following formula [3]. The polyester blended yarn described.
[0014]
Da ≦ Db (3)
[0015]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
[0016]
First, the blended yarn of the present invention comprises a core / sheath type composite multifilament A in which polystyrene is the core and polyester constitutes the sheath, and a polyester multifilament B in which a third component exhibiting high shrinkage is copolymerized. It has been done.
[0017]
The reason why the multifilament A is a core / sheath type composite yarn having polystyrene as the core and polyester as the sheath is that the polystyrene polymer utilizes the effect of suppressing the orientation promotion of the polyester polymer.
[0018]
Because of this effect, when a polyester polymer compounded with a polystyrene polymer and a polyester polymer exhibiting high shrinkage are spun simultaneously, the former becomes a filament with a lower orientation than the latter, resulting in a low shrinkage and high elongation yarn. The yarn has an initial Young's modulus smaller than that of the yarn. Accordingly, since the bending rigidity is also reduced, a soft and supple texture can be expressed when a woven or knitted fabric is formed.
[0019]
In the multifilament A, it is important that the core polystyrene is present in a certain amount in the fiber axis direction excluding the fracture portion and is not exposed on the fiber surface. If this is satisfied, the core / sheath composite form is not particularly limited, and the core may be eccentric or concentric.
[0020]
The composite ratio of the multifilament A polystyrene is preferably 3 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 6% by weight. When the content is less than 3%, the effect of suppressing the orientation by polystyrene is poor, and the required difference in the initial Young's modulus between the core yarn and the sheath yarn cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10%, the polyester constituting the sheath part may be cracked to cause a decrease in strength, and if it is severe, polystyrene will jump out of the crack, which is not preferable.
[0021]
Since the multifilament A becomes a low-shrinkage side yarn due to the shrinkage behavior during the heat treatment in the dyeing step, it forms the sheath portion of the blended yarn and thus forms the surface portion of the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, it is important that the initial Young's modulus Ea of the single yarn of the multifilament A is 50 cN / dtex or less in order to give a sufficient soft feeling to the woven or knitted fabric, and if it exceeds 50 cN / dtex, a soft surface touch can be obtained. It will not be possible. On the other hand, if the initial Young's modulus is too small, that is, if the degree of orientation is too low, the breaking elongation of the yarn increases, and a frosting problem occurs when a woven or knitted fabric is formed. It is important that the initial Young's modulus Ea is 20 cN / dtex or more so that the breaking elongation of the yarn does not become too large.
[0022]
In the multifilament A, it is important that polystyrene constituting the core portion is intermittently broken in the fiber axis direction. As a result, the bending moment of the broken portion of the multifilament A becomes smaller than the bending moment of the non-ruptured portion. Therefore, in synergy with the effect of low initial Young's modulus by suppressing the orientation, the blended yarn becomes softer and more supple. It is possible to give a unique touch. At this time, if the distance between the adjacent fracture portions (see FIG. 1) is large, the effect of reducing the bending moment is lost. Therefore, it is important that the gap is 5 mm or less, preferably 3 mm or less.
[0023]
In order to give a large swell and soft feeling to the knitted or knitted fabric, it is necessary to increase the gap between the fibers. For that purpose, it is important to increase the difference in the yarn length between the core yarn and the sheath yarn. . Accordingly, it is important that the polyester multifilament B serving as the core yarn exhibits high shrinkage. For this reason, in the present invention, polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component exhibiting high shrinkage such as isophthalic acid is used. is there.
[0024]
Polyester multifilament B constitutes the core of the blended yarn due to the shrinkage behavior during heat treatment in the dyeing process, and has a great influence on the resilience, firmness and firmness of the woven or knitted fabric. In order to achieve this, it is important that the initial Young's modulus Eb of the single yarn of the multifilament B is 50 cN / dtex or more.
[0025]
When the mixed yarn of the present invention is used as a woven or knitted fabric, the polyester multifilament B constitutes the core of the mixed yarn and greatly affects the tear strength of the woven or knitted fabric. If the average breaking elongation of the single yarn is less than 30%, fluffing may occur in the weaving preparation process and the like, causing problems in process passability, and causing a decrease in tear strength after weaving. It is important that the average breaking elongation of the single yarn of the polyester multifilament B is 30% or more. However, if the average breaking elongation of the single yarn of the core yarn of the blended yarn is too large, a problem of a gloss will occur in the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, the average breaking elongation of the single yarn of the polyester multifilament B is 70% or less. This is very important. However, if the core / sheath type composite multifilament A constituting the sheath portion of the mixed fiber is also a drawn yarn highly oriented to the same degree as the polyester multifilament B, there is a problem that the slime feeling becomes strong. However, since this slime feeling is eliminated as the elongation increases, the average breaking elongation of the single yarn of the core / sheath type composite multifilament A is 20% or more larger than the average breaking elongation of the single yarn of the polyester multifilament B. This is very important.
[0026]
Moreover, in order to give sufficient swelling to the woven or knitted fabric, when the mixed yarn is subjected to boiling treatment for 30 minutes and then subjected to dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. for 15 minutes, the multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B are separated from each other. The difference in yarn length is preferably 10% or more, but conversely, if it is too large, a woven or knitted fabric with a strong feeling of wiping is obtained, so it is important that the difference in the length of the decomposed yarn is 40% or less.
[0027]
The mixed yarn of the present invention is not limited in fineness, single yarn fineness, number of filaments, and cross-sectional shape. For example, the cross-sectional shape may be an irregular cross-section such as a hollow shape or a three-leaf shape. Such differences may exist. However, in order to give the woven or knitted fabric a resilience and soft feeling, it is preferable to increase the single yarn fineness of the core yarn that contributes to the resilience and to reduce the fineness of the sheath yarn that contributes to the soft feeling. It is preferable that the single yarn fineness Db of the multifilament B serving as the yarn is greater than or equal to the single yarn fineness Da of the multifilament A serving as the sheath yarn. That is, it is preferable that the relationship of Da ≦ Db is satisfied.
[0028]
Further, the polyester portion of the multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B may be those to which particles are added for the purpose of improving color development or matting.
[0029]
【Example】
EXAMPLES Next, although an Example and drawing demonstrate this invention concretely, this invention is not limited by this. The physical property values described in the text and in the examples are based on the following measuring methods.
(1) An initial Young's modulus mixed yarn of a single yarn is disassembled into individual single yarns, and then a tensile test is performed at a test length of 2 cm and a tensile speed of 2 cm / min using an Instron tensile tester. The straight line of the rise curve of the obtained SS curve is extended to determine the strength at an elongation of 100% and the value is divided by the single yarn fineness (cN / dtex). The average value of the measured values of five different single yarns for each of the core yarns and sheath yarns (when the number of single yarns is insufficient, a plurality of samples are taken from the same single yarn) is taken as the measurement value. The distinction between the core yarn and the sheath yarn can be clearly distinguished from the shape of the SS curve.
(2) After breaking the average breaking elongation mixed yarn of single yarns into single yarns one by one, measurement is performed at a test length of 2 cm and a tensile speed of 2 cm / min using an Instron tensile tester. The average value of 5 measurements is taken as the measurement value. The distinction between the core yarn and the sheath yarn can be clearly distinguished from the shape of the SS curve.
(3) Separation of blended yarns at the broken part of polystyrene into single yarns, taking a photograph with an optical microscope, and obtaining the average value of the distances between the broken parts and the broken parts at five points for the single sheath yarn. This is measured for 10 single sheath yarns (when the number of single yarns is insufficient, a plurality of samplings are performed from the same single yarn), and the average value thereof is taken as the measured value (FIG. 1).
(4) Decomposed yarn yarn length difference Take out a yarn of an appropriate length and carefully disassemble it into single yarns one by one so that the fibers themselves do not stretch. The disassembled single yarn is placed on a scale plate coated with glycerin and stretched to such an extent that crimps and wrinkles are eliminated, and the length L of one single yarn is measured (up to 1 mm unit). The short single yarn group and the long single yarn group are classified, and the average length of the short single yarn group is L1, and the long single yarn group is L2, and is calculated by the following equation. The average value of 5 measurements is taken as the measured value.
[0030]
Decomposed yarn length difference (%) = {(L2−L1) / L1} × 100
(5) Texture characteristics Measured with a cloth test system (KES) designed for measuring the texture of cloth manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.
[0031]
Example 1
Three-leaf cross-section polyester copolymerized with 8 mol% of isophthalic acid, 5 mol% of 2-2bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane, and a total of 87 mol% of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid. A three-leaf cross-section polyester compounded with 4.5% by weight of polystyrene was simultaneously spun and mixed with the same die at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min, and then normally stretched to obtain 60 dtex-36 filament (core yarn: 30 dtex-18). Filament, sheath yarn: 30 dtex-18 filament) was obtained.
[0032]
The obtained blended yarn was disassembled into single yarns one by one, and the initial Young's modulus was determined from the strength and elongation curves obtained by measuring the strength and elongation of each single yarn. The initial Young's modulus Eb of a single filament of a multifilament (which will be referred to as a core yarn when it is formed into a woven or knitted fabric) is 58.7 cN / dtex. The initial Young's modulus of a single yarn (which is sometimes referred to as a sheath yarn since it sometimes constitutes a sheath yarn) was 27.3 cN / dtex. The difference in the length of the decomposed yarn between the core and the sheath after the mixed yarn was subjected to the boil-off treatment and the dry-collection treatment at 180 ° C. was 27.8%. Further, the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the core yarn was 28.1%, and the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the sheath yarn was 64.2%. Furthermore, the space | interval of an adjacent fracture | rupture part and a fracture | rupture part was 2.2 mm.
[0033]
Next, this mixed fiber was subjected to a real twist of 200 T / m, glued and then warped, and a normal polyester drawn yarn of 83 dtex-72 filaments as a horizontal yarn was S twisted and Z twisted, and 2500 T / m actual twisted yarn, respectively. Satin was woven using two pieces alternately. The woven fabric was scoured relaxed, set at 180 ° C., subjected to 17% alkali weight reduction, subsequently dyed with disperse dye using a liquid dyeing machine, and finally set at 160 ° C. The obtained woven fabric had a large bulge and a soft texture, and had a supple surface feel. Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties and KES texture characteristics.
[0034]
(Example 2)
A round hollow polyester obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid, 5 mol% of 2-2bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane, and a total of 87 mol% of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, and polystyrene at the core. A three-leaf cross-section polyester compounded with 4.5% by weight in the same ratio is simultaneously spun and blended at the spinning speed of 3000 m / min with the same die, and then usually stretched to 60 dtex-27 filament (core yarn: 30 dtex-9 filament) , Sheath yarn 30 dtex-18 filament).
[0035]
The initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the core yarn of the blended yarn was 65.5 cN / dtex, and the initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the sheath yarn was 27.4%. Further, the difference in the length of the decomposed yarn between the core and sheath after the mixed yarn was subjected to the boil-off treatment and the dry harvesting treatment at 180 ° C. was 29.1%. Furthermore, the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the core yarn was 29.1%, and the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the sheath yarn was 68.1%. Furthermore, the space | interval of an adjacent fracture | rupture part and a fracture | rupture part was 3.2 mm.
[0036]
This mixed fiber was subjected to a real twist of 200 T / m in the same manner as in Example 1 and then subjected to gluing to obtain a warp yarn, and the same weaving and finishing as in Example 1 were performed to obtain a woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a large bulge and a soft texture like the woven fabric obtained in Example 1. Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties and KES texture characteristics.
[0037]
(Comparative Example 1)
Three-leaf cross-sectional polyester obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid, 5 mol% of 2-2bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane, and a total of 87 mol% of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid, and ordinary 3 The cross-sectional polyester of the leaf was spun and mixed with the same die at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min, and then normally stretched to mix 55 dtex-24 filaments (core yarn: 27.5 dtex-12 filament, sheath yarn: 27.5 dtex-12 filament) A yarn was obtained. When the initial Young's modulus of the obtained mixed fiber was measured in the same manner as in Example 1, the difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn was not clear, and the initial Young's modulus was 63 cN / s with almost the same SS curve. dtex. Further, the difference in the length of the decomposed yarn between the core and the sheath after the mixed yarn was subjected to the boil-off treatment and the dry harvesting treatment at 180 ° C. was 24.2%. Furthermore, the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the core yarn was 31.1%, and the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the sheath yarn was 34.1%.
[0038]
This mixed yarn is subjected to a 200 T / m actual twist, glued to make a warp yarn, and as a weft yarn, an ordinary polyester drawn yarn of 83 dtex-72 filaments is S-twisted and Z-twisted, and two yarns each having a 2500 T / m actual twist alternately Used to weave satin. Although the fabric after weaving was finished in the same dyeing process as in Example 1, the swell was moderate, but it lacked softness and lacked the surface feeling. Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties and KES texture characteristics.
[0039]
(Comparative Example 2)
A normal three-leaf cross-section polyester not copolymerized with isophthalic acid and a three-leaf cross-section polyester in which 4.5% of polystyrene is combined in the core are spun and mixed with the same die at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min, and then usually stretched. , 60 dtex-36 filament (core yarn: 30 dtex-18 filament, sheath yarn: 30 dtex-18 filament).
[0040]
The initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the core yarn of the blended yarn was 60.7 cN / dtex, and the initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the sheath yarn was 26.5 cN / dtex. Further, the difference in the length of the decomposed yarn between the core and the sheath after the mixed yarn was subjected to the boil-off treatment and dry-drying treatment at 180 ° C. was 8.9%. Further, the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the core yarn was 30.5%, and the breaking elongation of the single yarn of the sheath yarn was 70.5%.
[0041]
When the obtained mixed fiber was twisted at 200 T / m and woven with the same woven fabric as in Example 1, a soft surface was obtained, but the swelled feeling was lacking. Table 1 shows the yarn physical properties and KES texture characteristics.
[0042]
[Table 1]
[0043]
【The invention's effect】
In the polyester blended yarn of the present invention, the initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the sheath yarn is significantly smaller than the initial Young's modulus of the single yarn of the core yarn, and the polystyrene constituting the core portion of the sheath yarn is continuously broken. As a result, it has a soft and supple surface when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, and the normal dyeing process after weaving and knitting is performed due to the difference in yarn length caused by the difference in thermal shrinkage between the two types of multifilaments. It has a big bulge by doing.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view in the fiber axis direction showing an example of a single yarn of a core-sheath type composite multifilament according to the present invention.
Claims (5)
20≦Ea≦50 ・・・[1]
50≦Eb ・・・[2]The core / sheath type composite multifilament A in which polystyrene is the core and polyester is the sheath, and the polyester multifilament B in which the third component exhibiting high shrinkage is copolymerized, the core / sheath type composite multifilament The initial Young's modulus Ea (cN / dtex) of the single yarn of filament A and the initial Young's modulus Eb (cN / dtex) of the single yarn of polyester multifilament B satisfy the ranges of the following formulas [1] to [2]. Characteristic polyester blend yarn.
20 ≦ Ea ≦ 50 [1]
50 ≦ Eb [2]
Da≦Db ・・・[3]The polyester mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the single yarn fineness Da of the multifilament A and the single yarn fineness Db of the polyester filament B satisfy the relationship of the following formula [3].
Da ≦ Db (3)
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| JP2000376378A JP4706103B2 (en) | 2000-12-11 | 2000-12-11 | Polyester blended yarn |
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| JP2000376378A JP4706103B2 (en) | 2000-12-11 | 2000-12-11 | Polyester blended yarn |
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