JP4789132B2 - Method for producing solid cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic, and more particularly to a method for producing a solid cosmetic containing a powder.

  Solid cosmetics containing powder are applied to makeup cosmetics such as foundations or eye colors, for example. Such a solid cosmetic is composed of a powder and a lipophilic component. However, due to the viscodynamic behavioral characteristics, the powder and the lipophilic component cannot be mixed at an arbitrary ratio. The region containing 75% by mass and 20-50% by mass of the lipophilic component exhibits viscodynamic behavior called “funicular”, and it is extremely difficult to perform uniform mixing and molding with conventional manufacturing techniques. It is said to be an area. For this reason, avoiding such areas, solid fat is used to adjust the hardness after molding, and at the time of manufacturing, the solid fat is heated to change it into a liquid state, and the manufacturing operation is performed. The technology is made to solidify and make a pseudo cosmetic solid cosmetic. (For example, see Patent Document 1, Patent Document 2, and Patent Document 3) However, the fine crystals of solid fat deposited on the powder surface may affect and damage the cosmetic finish effect of the powder. It remained as it was. That is, it can be said that development of a solid cosmetic material in a substantial funicular region has been desired. One of the reasons that such cosmetics are not realized is the limitation of viscoelastic properties that can be handled by conventional manufacturing methods.

  On the other hand, as a mixing device for powder-containing solid cosmetics, there are Henschel mixers, pulverizers, etc. for those having powder fluid characteristics with many powders, and in an oil gel form with many lipophilic components, Ball mills, rolls, etc. were used. On the other hand, as an extrusion mixer, a clay kneading machine for clay for ceramics and a deaeration machine (for example, Patent Document 4, Patent Document 5, Patent Document 6, Patent Document 7, Patent Document 8) And an extruding granulator for producing granules such as pharmaceuticals, etc., but there is no example of applying these to the production of cosmetics having viscodynamic properties in the funicular region.

  Cosmetics containing 1) 40 to 75% by mass of powder and 2) 20 to 50% by mass of an oily component having fluidity under the conditions of 1 atm and 25 ° C. are not known at all, and the production method thereof is not at all. unknown.

JP 2001-213730 A JP-A-11-236316 JP 11-147809 A JP 2001-212818 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-100131 JP 07-214537 A JP 2002-273777 A JP-T-2002-519217

  The present invention has been made under such circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a solid cosmetic material in a substantial funicular region.

In view of such a situation, the present inventors have sought for a solid cosmetic material in a substantial funicular region, and as a result of earnest research efforts, 1) belonging to the funicular region, and 1) 40 to 75 masses of powder. % And 2) In the production of a cosmetic containing 20 to 50% by mass of an oily component having fluidity under the conditions of 1 atm and 25 ° C., the powder and the oily component are mixed with clay in the field of ceramics. Can be manufactured by processing through a mixing process using a kneader used for extrusion mixing, and the cosmetics thus obtained have a remarkable cosmetic effect. And found out that the invention was completed. That is, this invention relates to the technique shown below.
(1) funicular belongs to the area 1) powder 40 to 75 wt% and 2) 1 atm, cosmetic method for manufacturing containing 20-50 wt% oil component having fluidity under a condition of 25 ° C. And having a step of mixing powder and oil component using a kneader used for extruding and mixing clay in the field of ceramics, and constituting makeup cosmetics. Fani, characterized in that the viscosity at 20 ° C. of a mixture of an oily component having fluidity under conditions of atmospheric pressure and 25 ° C. and a component soluble in the oily component is 400 to 1000 millipascals / second. A method for producing a solid makeup cosmetic in a curative region .
( 2 ) The hardness measured using a card tension meter of the solid makeup cosmetic in the funicular region is 30 to 60 when the load is 100 g using an attachment of 1.5 mmφ. The production method according to ( 1 ).

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the solid cosmetics of a substantial funicular area | region can be manufactured easily.

(1) Powder that is an essential component of a cosmetic that is the subject of the production method of the present invention The cosmetic that is the subject of the production method of the present invention is characterized by containing a powder. The powder referred to in the present invention is a general term for organic or inorganic solids that are not dissolved or transparent and dispersed in cosmetic raw materials such as water, fats and oils, surfactants, alcohols, and silicones. Specifically, kaolin, talc, mica, sericite, titanium mica, laminated resin pieces (glitter), titanium sericite, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine, bitumen, red 102, red 226, Yellow No. 4 aluminum lake, silica, alumina, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, methylsiloxane network polymer, cross-linked methylpolysiloxane resin, alkyl acrylate resins, nylon, silk, cellulose or composites thereof Examples include materials such as spherical, indeterminate, porous, hollow, fibrous, plate-like or It may be massive. Further, the surface may be subjected to a conventionally known surface treatment such as a silicone coating treatment, a metal soap coating treatment, or an acylamino acid salt coating treatment. In the cosmetic that is the object of the production method of the present invention, such powders can play a role corresponding to the blending purpose. For example, makeup effects such as concealment and color rendering and UV-cutting effects can be exemplified. From the characteristics of the cosmetic dosage form that is the object of the production method of the present invention, powders having pearly luster such as titanium mica It is preferable to apply to cosmetics aimed at the color rendering effect by. Therefore, it is preferable that the cosmetic that is the object of the production method of the present invention contains such a powder having pearly luster. The powder having such pearly luster includes titanium mica, laminated resin pieces (glitter), and borosilicate Ca / Al, which may be treated with a surface treatment agent or colored with a pigment. It can be illustrated. In the cosmetic that is the object of the production method of the present invention, such powders can contain only one species or a combination of two or more species. The preferable content of the powder in the cosmetics to be subjected to the production method of the present invention is the total amount, preferably 40 to 75% by mass, more preferably 45 to 65% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. is there. Moreover, it is preferable that 70-99 mass% of this powder, More preferably, 80-98 mass% is the powder which has the said pearl luster.

(2) Oily component which is an essential component of the cosmetics subject to the production method of the present invention The cosmetic which is the subject of the production method of the present invention is an oily component having fluidity under the conditions of 1 atm and 25 ° C. It is characterized by containing 20 to 50% by mass as an essential component. Examples of such oily components include animal and plant oils such as macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, and liquid lanolin. , Hydrocarbon oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane and pristane, liquid fatty acids such as oleic acid and isostearic acid, liquid higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, hexyldecyl isostearate, adipine Diisopropyl acid, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, -2-ethylhexanoic acid glycerin, tri-2-ethylhexanoic acid trimethylolpropane, triisostearic acid trimethylolpropane, tetra-2-ethylhexanoic acid pentane erythritol, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl triisooctanoate, etc. Synthetic ester oil, chain polysiloxane such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclic polysiloxane such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane, amino-modified polysiloxane, Suitable examples include silicone oils such as polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, and fluorine-modified polysiloxane. Such an oil component can contain only a seed | species, and can also be contained in combination of 2 or more type. Particularly preferably, dimethicone and glyceryl triisostearate are used in combination, and the mass ratio of dimethicone and glyceryl triisostearate is preferably 1: 2 to 2: 1. Such an oily component preferably has a viscosity at 20 ° C. of a mixture with a component soluble in the oily component in the formulation of 400 to 1000 mPa · s, more preferably 450 to 950 mPa · s. -Preferably it is seconds. The preferred content of such oily components in the cosmetics subject to the production method of the present invention is 20-50% by mass, more preferably 25-45% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetics. is there.

(3) Cosmetics that are subject to the production method of the present invention The cosmetics that are the subject of the production method of the present invention are characterized by containing the essential components. As a feature of the cosmetic that is the object of the production method of the present invention, it belongs to the funicular region and thus has a remarkable excellent color rendering property. The cosmetic that is the object of the production method of the present invention can contain optional components that are normally contained in cosmetics within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Such optional components include, for example, waxes such as hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated oil, molasses, hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, ibota wax, lanolin, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, jojoba wax, ozokerite, paraffin , Hydrocarbons such as ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, higher fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, undecylenic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc. Higher alcohols, fatty acid soap (sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), anionic surfactants such as potassium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine ether of alkyl sulfate, stearyl chloride Cationic surfactants such as ruammonium, benzalkonium chloride, laurylamine oxide, imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants (such as 2-cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide-1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt), betaine Surfactants (alkylbetaines, amidebetaines, sulfobetaines, etc.), amphoteric surfactants such as acylmethyltaurine, sorbitan fatty acid esters (sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, etc.), glycerin fatty acids (monostearin) Glycerin acid, propylene glycol fatty acid esters (propylene glycol monostearate, etc.), hardened castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ether, POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, Nostearic acid polyoxyethylene sorbitan), POE sorbite fatty acid esters (POE-sorbite monolaurate, etc.), POE glycerin fatty acid esters (POE-glycerin monoisostearate, etc.), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate) , POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), POE alkylphenyl ethers (POE nonylphenyl ether, etc.), Pluronic types, POE / POP alkyl ethers (POE / POP2-decyltetradecyl). Non-ionic interfaces such as ethers, tetronics, POE castor oil / hardened castor oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hardened castor oil, etc.), sucrose fatty acid esters, alkyl glucosides, etc. Activators, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2,4-he Polyhydric alcohols such as xylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, moisturizing ingredients such as sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, guar gum, quince seed, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, Pectin, mannan, starch, xanthan gum, curdlan, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, chondroitin sulfate, Matane sulfate, glycogen, heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, tragacanth gum, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, hydroxyethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, dextran, kerato sulfate, locust bean gum, succinoglucan, carolinic acid, chitin , Chitosan, carboxymethylchitin, agar, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, thickener such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol, bentonite, surface may be treated, mica, talc, kaolin, synthesis Powders such as mica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, anhydrous silicic acid (silica), aluminum oxide, barium sulfate, surface may be treated, bengara, yellow Iron pigment, black iron oxide, cobalt oxide, ultramarine, bitumen, titanium oxide, zinc oxide inorganic pigments, surface treated pearlescent agents such as titanium mica, fish phosphorus foil, bismuth oxychloride, lake Red 202, red 228, red 226, yellow 4, blue 404, yellow 5, red 505, red 230, red 223, orange 201, red 213, Organic powders such as yellow 204, yellow 203, blue 1, green 201, purple 201, red 204, etc., organic powders such as polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer , Paraaminobenzoic acid UV absorbers, anthranilic acid UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, cinnamic acid UV absorbers, benzophenone UV absorbers , Sugar-based UV absorbers, UV absorbers such as 2- (2′-hydroxy-5′-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 4-methoxy-4′-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, ethanol, isopropanol, etc. Lower alcohols, vitamin A or its derivatives, vitamin B6 hydrochloride, vitamin B6 tripalmitate, vitamin B6 dioctanoate, vitamin B2 or its derivatives, vitamin B such as vitamin B12, vitamin B15 or its derivatives, α-tocopherol, Preferred examples include vitamin E such as β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, vitamin E acetate, vitamin D, vitamin H, pantothenic acid, panthetin, pyrroloquinoline quinone and the like. The solid cosmetic of the present invention is preferably applied to makeup cosmetics that make use of its color rendering properties, and particularly preferably applied to eye colors or cheek colors. In addition, as the solid cosmetic of the present invention, the hardness measured using a card tension meter is preferably 30 to 60 when the load is 100 g using an attachment of 1.5 mmφ, and 40 to 50 More preferred. This is because the paste of the cosmetic may be impaired if it is too hard, and the uniformity of the finish may be impaired if it is too soft.

(4) Manufacturing method of cosmetics of this invention The manufacturing method of the cosmetics of this invention has the process of mixing powder and an oil component using an extrusion mixing apparatus for the said cosmetics as the object. And In this case, the powders can be previously stirred and mixed with a Henschel masser or the like, and pulverized and mixed in advance with a hammer mill such as a pulverizer equipped with a round hole screen or a herringbone screen. As the round hole screen, those having a diameter of 0.5 to 2 mm can be preferably exemplified, and the spacing between the screens of the herringbone screen can be preferably exemplified by 0.1 to 10 mm. The powder thus premixed can be premixed with a uniformly mixed oil component using a machine such as a kneader and then mixed uniformly using an extrusion mixing apparatus. It is a feature of the production method of the present invention that the production process includes such a mixing process by an extrusion mixing apparatus. Preferred examples of the extrusion mixing apparatus include a screw-type transfer mechanism in a cylinder, a screen arranged at one side of the cylinder, and a supply mechanism for the mixture to be mixed on the other side. The pasta-formed pharmaceutical composition is extruded and formed into pellet-like granules. It has the same mechanism as the extrusion granulator. A clay kneader or the like used for making and removing bubbles in the clay can be used for such mixing. Through such a process, the cosmetic can be processed into a plastic mass that shows a viscoelastic behavior in a funicular region in which an oily component and a powder component are uniformly mixed. A certain amount of this can be weighed, filled into a metal pan or the like, and subjected to pressure molding to be processed into a cosmetic as a product. In such pressure molding, it is possible to perform pressure molding while heating as desired. As such an extrusion mixing apparatus for performing extrusion mixing, there are commercially available apparatuses, which can be purchased and used. As a commercially available extrusion mixer, a “vacuum clay molding machine” manufactured by Ishikawa Tokiko Co., Ltd. can be suitably exemplified.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to such examples.

<Example 1>
In accordance with the prescription shown below, a cosmetic material to be subjected to the production method of the present invention was prepared. That is, the ingredients of Formula 1 were mixed with a Henschel mixer, and pulverized with a pulverizer equipped with a 0.9 mmφ round hole screen to obtain a powder composition 1. In addition, the components of Formula 2 were mixed at room temperature and solubilized to obtain oily composition 1. In addition, when the viscosity at 20 degreeC of an oil-based composition was measured, it was 520 millipascal second. These are mixed to make a crude mixture, which is passed twice through a vacuum kneader (made by Ishikawa Tokiko Co., Ltd.) to make a uniform mixture, which is weighed into a metal pan and pressure molded. The solid cosmetic 1 of the present invention was obtained. The color difference of this product with respect to the standard white plate was measured three times while changing the part, and the dispersion was determined to be 0.23. Compared with conventional powder solid cosmetics and oil gel cosmetics, this product has a very vivid pearly feeling of titanium mica. Further, this pearl feeling was not dull at all after 3 hours, and had a characteristic of having a color rendering property and having a long lasting makeup.
(Prescription 1)
Colored titanium mica 18 parts by mass Titanium mica 38 parts by mass Silica 4 parts by mass (Prescription 2)
"Silicone KSG-16" 20 parts by mass (dimethicone 75 parts by mass cross-linked methylpolysiloxane 25 parts by mass)
Glyceryl triisostearate 20 parts by mass

<Comparative Example 1>
In the formulation of Example 1, the powder composition 1 and the oily composition 1 were mixed for 4 hours using a kneader used in conventional production, and this was weighed in a metal pan and pressure-molded. to obtain a solid form cosmetic 2. The color difference of this product with respect to the standard white plate was measured three times while changing the part, and the dispersion was determined to be 1.06. The thing to be compared with the conventional powder solid cosmetic or oil gel cosmetic, a vivid pearly titanium mica, but also observed improvement in color rendering properties of cosmetic durability, not enough solid cosmetic 1, soil It was observed that mixing by the kneader had a positive effect on the quality of the cosmetic.

<Comparative example 2>
In the formulation of Example 1, the powder composition 1 and the oily composition 1 were mixed for 4 hours using a kneader, which is used in the conventional production, and this was further subjected to 3 rolls twice, and this was mixed with gold. weighed dish, and press molded to obtain a solid form cosmetic 3. The color difference of this product with respect to the standard white plate was measured three times while changing the site, and the dispersion was determined to be 0.72. This material is also conventional powder solid cosmetic or oil gel cosmetics, as compared with the solid cosmetic 2, a vivid pearly titanium mica, but also observed improvement in color rendering properties of cosmetic durability, solid cosmetic 1 Rather, it was observed that mixing with a kneader had a positive effect on the quality of the cosmetic.

< Reference Example 1 >
In the same manner as in Example 1, a solid cosmetic 4 was prepared according to the following formulation. The color difference with respect to this standard white plate was measured three times while changing the site, and the dispersion was determined to be 0.31. Compared with conventional powder solid cosmetics, oil gel cosmetics, solid cosmetics 2, and solid cosmetics 3, the pearly feeling of titanium mica is also vivid and the improvement of color rendering properties is recognized. It was observed that the viscosity of the oil phase, not as much as the solid cosmetic 1, has a positive influence on the quality of the cosmetic.
(Prescription 1)
Colored titanium mica 18 parts by mass Titanium mica 38 parts by mass Silica 4 parts by mass (Prescription 3)
40 parts by mass of glyceryl triisostearate (* viscosity is 8000 mPascal · sec)

  The present invention can be applied to the production of cosmetics in areas such as the funicular area that exhibit unprecedented viscoelastic behavior.

Claims (2)

A method for producing a cosmetic comprising 1) 40 to 75% by mass of powder and 2) 20 to 50% by mass of an oily component having fluidity under the conditions of 1 atm and 25 ° C. , Having a step of mixing powder and oil component using a kneader used for extruding and mixing clay in the field of ceramics, constituting makeup cosmetics, 1 atm, 25 The viscosity of a mixture of an oily component having fluidity under the condition of ° C and a component soluble in the oily component at 20 ° C is 400 to 1000 millipascal second. Manufacturing method of solid makeup cosmetics. Hardness measured using a card tension meter of the solid makeup cosmetic in the funicular region is 30 to 60 when the load is 100 g using an attachment of 1.5 mmφ, The manufacturing method according to claim 1 .