JP4870964B2 - Manufacturing method of adhesive interlining - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to an adhesive interlining and clothes using the adhesive interlining. In particular, the present invention relates to an adhesive interlining suitable for use in an outerwear having a tailored collar, and clothes using such an adhesive interlining.

  Conventionally, various outer linings are used on the front body of a jacket or the like having a tailored collar such as a suit or jacket so that the silhouette of the wearer can be clearly seen. For example, a stand core, a breast core, a lapel core, a front core, etc. are used. In particular, a breast core is formed by laminating a plurality of interlinings. For example, the present bus core, a synthetic fiber hair core, a non-woven interlining, and the like are laminated. Since many interlinings were used in this way, the outer garment became heavier and harder.

  In addition, it is prepared in advance as a core made by laminating a breast core, a lapel core, and a front core on the pedestal, and it is prepared in advance, but many types of cores are stocked to meet the required functions and sizes. There is a problem that a large amount of space is required for storage, and there is a risk that the core will be in stock for a long time, which is costly. In order to solve such a problem, Japanese Utility Model Laid-Open No. 6-22320 (Patent Document 1) and the like store the breast core, the lapel core, and the front core separately on the base core without laminating and laminating them at the site. It has been proposed to integrate the joints.

  However, even with the method proposed in Patent Document 1, the finished jacket itself is heavy because it uses many interlinings.

  In the case of tailored collars, the part of the front body that becomes the heel from the folding line is folded back to become a lapel, but when using an adhesive interlining on the front body including this lapel, a jacket is worn There is a problem that the tip of the lapel jumps away from the surface of the body. This is generally called hygral expansion in the industry, and is a phenomenon that occurs when a hygroscopic surface fabric such as wool and an adhesive interlining such as a polyester nonwoven fabric are bonded together, If the tip of the lapel jumps up, there is a problem that the appearance of the jacket will deteriorate. Several proposals have been made to solve such problems.

  For example, in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 54-7708 (Patent Document 2), a thin adhesive core is pasted on the lapel part of the body, and further, a campus type adhesive having an adhesive dot interval of 5 mm to 12 mm from above. It has been proposed to prevent jumping of the lapel tip by pasting an interlining.

In JP-A-11-323640 (Patent Document 3), in place of an adhesive interlining which has been conventionally formed with the same base fabric configuration, two interlining elements having different moisture contents are arranged, respectively. It has been proposed to form a curvature according to the design of the part. As a result, when pasted with the outer fabric, the lapel will be bent so that it bends to the outer fabric side or to the inner fabric side due to the difference between the hygroscopic elongation property of the outer fabric and the hygroscopic elongation property of the adhesive interlining. It is proposed that the adhesive interlining to be bonded uses an adhesive interlining made of a fabric with a high moisture content, and the adhesive interlining bonded to the front body adjacent to the lapel uses an adhesive interlining made of a fabric with a low moisture content. ing.
Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 6-22320 Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 54-7708 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-323640

  As shown in Patent Document 1, there is a problem that a material using various interlinings, such as a conventional tailored collar outer coat, becomes heavy and its manufacturing cost is also expensive. Moreover, in the thing disclosed in Patent Document 2, even if the problem of the lapel part is solved, as the interlining of the front body part, various interlinings must be used as in the past. There is a problem that it cannot be a light jacket. Also, the one disclosed in Patent Document 3 solves the problem of the lapel part, but only forms a positive curvature and a negative curvature due to the difference in moisture content. It does not have a curve. Therefore, in order to produce the necessary volume in the front body part, it is necessary to use a breast core, etc., and it is not possible to manufacture a light jacket. Further, since the curvature changes depending on the moisture absorption state, there is a problem that the shape changes between a dry state and a high humidity state.

  Aside from the technique disclosed in Patent Document 3, conventionally, as for the pasting of the face fabric and the adhesive interlining, the pasted one is usually flat. However, in the present invention, when the adhesive interlining is pasted to the outer fabric, the curling is greatly curled in the weft direction compared to the conventional one, and there is no need to use a chest core layered in layers as in the past. Another object is to provide an interlining that can give a sense of volume and clothes using such an interlining. It is another object of the present invention to provide a garment that has a sense of volume even with a small amount of interlining and is extremely light and soft.

In the present invention, all weft yarns are made of crimped yarns composed of PTT fibers or side-by-side fibers of a PTT polymer and polyester, and the first heat setting is performed at 180 to 200 ° C., and then from the first temperature. Pull the width of the fabric at 150-170 ° C, which is 20 ° C or more lower, widen the width and perform the second heat setting, and dot-coat the adhesive resin on the heat-set fabric to form an adhesive interlining The object is achieved by a method for manufacturing an adhesive interlining for clothes.
When this adhesive interlining is bonded to the outer fabric of the clothes, the wefts shrink and curl so that the adhesive interlining is on the inside.

  The adhesive interlining in the present invention curls to the following extent when it is bonded to the outer cloth of the clothes. That is, the fabric with the adhesive interlining bonded to the surface fabric has a size of warp 52 cm and a weft 30 cm, the upper end in the warp direction of the fabric is gripped with a width of 2 cm, and the curled state at the lower end is A distance a between two points D and D on both sides farthest from the center point C in the weft direction to the inside of the curl is 25 cm or less, and a virtual straight line DD connecting the two separated points D and D And the distance b from the center point C is 5 cm or more.

  Alternatively, a fabric in which an adhesive interlining is bonded to a surface fabric has a size of 52 cm in length and 30 cm in weft, the upper end in the warp direction of the fabric is gripped with a width of 2 cm, and the curled state at the lower end is A distance a between two points D and D on both sides farthest from the center point C in the weft direction to the inside of the curl is 25 cm or less, and a virtual straight line DD connecting the two separated points D and D The angle e formed by a virtual straight line EE passing through the center point C parallel to the center point and a virtual straight line CD connecting the center point C and the distant point D is 25 degrees or more.

  Alternatively, the fabric with the adhesive interlining bonded to the outer fabric is a size of 11 cm in warp and 10 cm in the weft, and the upper end in the warp direction of the fabric is held with a width of 1 cm and suspended, The distance a between the two points D and D on both sides farthest from the center point C in the weft direction to the inside of the curl is 8.8 cm or less, and a virtual straight line D connecting the two separated points D and D The distance b between -D and the center point C is 1.5 cm or more.

  Alternatively, the fabric with the adhesive interlining bonded to the outer fabric is a size of 11 cm in length and 10 cm in the weft, the upper end in the warp direction of the fabric is held with a width of 1 cm, and the curled state at the lower end is The distance a between the two points D and D on both sides farthest from the center point C in the weft direction to the inside of the curl is 8.8 cm or less, and a virtual straight line D connecting the two separated points D and D An angle e formed by a virtual straight line EE passing through the center point C parallel to −D and a virtual straight line CD connecting the center point C and the distant point D is 20 degrees or more.

  Further, the present invention is a garment in which an adhesive interlining is bonded to at least a portion of the outer fabric, and the adhesive interlining is a crimp in which all wefts are made of PTT fibers or side-by-side fibers of PTT polymer and polyester. The object is achieved by a garment characterized in that the part made of yarn and the adhesive interlining and the face fabric are bonded is curled so that the adhesive interlining is inside the curl.

  According to the present invention, the crimped yarn comprising the side-by-side type fiber of PTT fiber or PTT polymer and polyester, which is the weft of the adhesive interlining, shrinks when bonded to the outer fabric of the clothes, and the adhesive interlining is the inner side of the curl. It has the property of curling greatly. For this reason, if this interlining is used, there is no need to use a large amount of interlining as in the conventional case, because a three-dimensional feeling that suits the body is obtained without using a breast core, etc. You can get soft clothes.

  In addition, since the adhesive interlining of the present invention has a curling property, a volume feeling along the roundness of the arm can be obtained by using it on the mountain sleeve side of the sleeve portion, or a pocket can be provided along the body by using the pocket. Can bulge out.

  By using the adhesive interlining of the present invention for the lapel part of the turn-up part in the tailored collar, it is possible to prevent the tip of the lapel from jumping up as in the past, and the fold of the heel does not become flat and has an appropriate volume feeling You can make your own tailored collar jacket.

  By using the adhesive interlining of the present invention, it is easy to express a silhouette that wraps around the body because it is curled inward after being bonded to the outer fabric. Further, the use of the adhesive interlining of the present invention at the front opening portion is preferable because the front portion feels like being rolled up and the front portion does not warp outward.

  Considering a cross-sectional view of the body, roughly speaking, the back side is flat and the front side (abdomen side) is a rounded, deformed oval shape. For this reason, in conventional suits and jackets, it is common to make a three-dimensional shape by cutting into a front body and a thin belly or by taking various darts. However, according to the present invention, the roundness of the front body can be obtained by the adhesive interlining, so that it is not necessary to divide and cut the front body and the abdomen, and the darts can be reduced.

  According to the present invention, since the characteristics of the PTT fiber or the PTT polymer are utilized, it is possible to surely curl when bonded. In addition, the curl does not disappear even when dry cleaning is performed, and a stable product can be obtained.

  In the adhesive interlining of the present invention, all the wefts are crimped yarns made of PTT fibers (polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers) or side-by-side type fibers of PTT polymer and polyester. The false twisted crimped yarn made of PTT fiber is, for example, sold as Solotex (registered trademark) by Solotex Corporation, or the side-by-side type crimped yarn containing PTT polymer is, for example, Toray DuPont What is marketed as T-400 (trade name) from a corporation can be used.

  The warp of the adhesive interlining is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use a yarn that does not heat shrink even when heat set, that is, a yarn that does not heat shrink at 200 ° C. or less, and is made of polyester yarn or natural fiber. Yarn can be used.

  These warps and wefts are used for weaving and then dyed as necessary. A plain weave or twill weave is suitable as the fabric structure, and the fabric density is not particularly limited. However, if the density is too high, the movement becomes worse when curling in a subsequent process, so it is preferable that the density is not too high.

  For example, a fabric having a width of about 130 cm on the weaving is about 100 cm when it is unwound, and it becomes about 50 to 60 cm when dyed.

  The standard widths of general adhesive interlining are 92 cm, 112 cm, and 122 cm. In the present invention, heat setting is performed with a slightly narrower width than the standard width. In one embodiment of the present invention, heat setting was performed at 100 cm using a standard width of 112 cm. The set temperature is 180 to 200 ° C.

  In a normal fabric, heat setting is performed only once, but in the present invention, heat setting is performed again. The second heat setting is performed at a temperature lower than the temperature of the first heat setting (preferably a temperature lower by 20 to 30 ° C. than the first temperature). The second set temperature is preferably 150 to 170 ° C., and the width is expanded from about 100 cm to about 10%. Temporary set (heat set, but when heated in a later process, this set state is removed and the width is set. Is referred to as a temporary set). Actually, it was temporarily set by pulling from 100 cm to 113 cm. The interlining after the second heat setting is flat. Adhesive resin was dot-coated on the temporarily set interlining to obtain an adhesive interlining 1.

  Next, the adhesive interlining 1 and the outer cloth 2 of the clothes are bonded. When pasting, use a roller press. Note that the curl intended by the present invention cannot be obtained with a flat press. The bonding temperature varies depending on the type of the adhesive resin, such as an adhesive resin generally used for the adhesive interlining, or a lower temperature adhesive resin, and therefore, the bonding is performed under standard adhesive conditions suitable for the resin. For example, when a general adhesive resin is used, heat setting is performed at around 130 ° C. When bonded to the front fabric 2 in this manner, a temporary set state is taken, and the weft 3 of the adhesive interlining 1 contracts and the bonded fabric 3 (the front fabric 2 and the adhesive interlining 1 bonded) curls. In this case, curl so that the side of the adhesive interlining 1 is inside the curl as shown in FIG.

  FIG. 1 shows that after bonding an adhesive interlining 1 and a front fabric 2, the fabric 3 is cut into a predetermined size and the upper end in the warp direction is gripped with a width of 2 cm or 1 cm, for example, and the size of the free part Is a transverse cross-sectional view (cross-sectional view in the weft direction) schematically showing the state of curling at the lower end when hanging down, for example, with a warp of 50 cm × weft of 30 cm or warp of 10 cm × 10 cm of weft. FIG. 1A shows a curled state when the front fabric 2 is a relatively thin fabric, and FIG. 1B shows a curled state when the front fabric 2 is a relatively thick fabric.

  In the warp direction, both the front fabric 2 and the adhesive interlining 1 remain straight because changes such as yarn shrinkage are small.

  When the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention is pressed alone on a roller press, it only contracts in the weft direction and does not curl. When the adhesive interlining 1 is bonded to the outer fabric 2, the shrinkage rate is smaller than that of the single body, but the adhesive interlining 1 is curled so as to be inside due to the difference in movement between the outer fabric 2 and the adhesive interlining 1. It becomes a state. When the face fabric 1 and a normal adhesive interlining were laminated, the curled state was hardly obtained. In addition, in a normal case, it is not good to curl, and it is bonded without curling.

  As the adhesive interlining of the present invention, 30 de (denier, ie 33 dtex) polyester false twisted crimped yarn was used as the warp, and 50 de PTT crimped yarn was used as the weft. In the heat setting process after dyeing the fabric lowered from the weaving, the heat setting was performed at the first time with a width of 100 cm and a heat setting temperature of 190 ° C. Next, this fabric was pulled to expand the width to 113 cm, and a second heat setting was performed at 160 ° C. Then, adhesive resin was dot-coated on this interlining to obtain an adhesive interlining 1.

  In order to examine the shrinkage rate, the fabric in a state before application of the adhesive resin was cut into a size of 10 cm × 10 cm in length and passed through a roller press. The passing condition of this roller press was heating at 130 ° C. for 12 seconds, and the pressure of the roller was 10 N / cm. When the state was examined after 2 hours had passed after pressing, the interlining remained flat and the warp was 10 cm, but the weft contracted to 9.30 cm. The shrinkage percentage was 7.0%.

  A 50 de (denier) polyester false twisted crimped yarn was used as the warp and a 50 de PTT crimped yarn as the weft as the adhesive interlining of the present invention. In the same manner as in Example 1, in the heat setting process after dyeing the fabric lowered from the weaving, heat setting was performed at a width of 100 cm and a heat setting temperature of 190 ° C. Next, this fabric was pulled to expand the width to 113 cm, and a second heat setting was performed at 160 ° C. Then, adhesive resin was dot-coated on this interlining to obtain an adhesive interlining 1.

Further, in order to examine the shrinkage rate in the same manner as in Example 1, the fabric in a state before application of the adhesive resin was cut into a size of 10 cm × 10 cm in length and passed through a roller press. When the state after pressing was examined, the interlining remained flat and the warp was 10 cm, but the weft contracted to 9.30 cm. The shrinkage percentage was 7.0%.
[Comparative Example 1]

  As a comparative example, a conventional adhesive interlining, product number DH204, sold by Nippon Haskell Co., Ltd. was used. This adhesive interlining is obtained by dot-coating an adhesive resin on a plain weave fabric using 30 de (denier) polyester false twist crimped yarn for warp and 50 de polyester false twist crimped weft for weft.

  As in Example 1, the fabric in a state before application of the adhesive resin was cut into a size of 10 cm by 10 cm and passed through a roller press. When the state after pressing was examined, the interlining remained flat and the warp was 10 cm, but the weft was very slightly contracted to 9.95 cm. The shrinkage rate was 0.5%.

  Next, various surface fabrics used for clothes were bonded to the adhesive interlinings of Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 described above, and the state of the fabric after bonding was examined. The bonding conditions were a roller press machine heated at 135 ° C. for 12 seconds, and the roller pressure was 12 N / cm.

  The degree of curling when the adhesive interlining and the outer fabric were laminated was measured as follows. First, after laminating, a fabric left for 24 hours was cut into a predetermined size, and two pieces of each were prepared, and one piece was used as it was as sample S (initial). In order to check whether or not the curl disappears when the other sheet is dry-cleaned, it was dry-cleaned once or more to obtain a sample S (dry). In the present invention, the predetermined size for measuring the degree of curling is one having a warp direction of 11 cm and a weft direction of 10 cm, and another one having a warp direction of 52 cm and a weft direction of 30 cm. As shown in FIG. 2, these samples S are held in a state where the upper end in the warp direction is sandwiched between hard paper 4 and held by a stapler, and a hanging hook 5 is attached to the center. The upper end in the warp direction is gripped with a width of 1 cm so that the size of the free part that is not gripped is 10 cm × 10 cm in the smaller sample. For the larger sample, the upper end in the warp direction is gripped with a width of 2 cm so that the size of the free portion that is not gripped is 50 cm long and 30 cm long.

  A sheet of paper such as graph paper is placed on a horizontal table such as a desk, and the lower end of the sample S suspended thereon is brought into contact. Then measure the degree of curling. As shown in FIGS. 3A and 3B, the measurement points are the center point C in the latitudinal direction and the two points D and D on both sides farthest from the center point C in the latitudinal direction to the inside of the curl, Copy these points on paper. Next, a straight line connecting the points D and D is drawn on the paper, and the distance a between the points D and D is measured. Further, the distance b between the center point C and the straight line DD is measured. Further, a straight line EE parallel to the straight line DD and passing through the center point C and a straight line CD connecting the center point C and the point D are drawn, and an angle e formed by the straight line EE and the straight line CD is measured. .

[Measurement result 1]
Using 100% wool gabardine (twill weave structure) as the surface fabric and a basis weight of 220 g / m ² , they were bonded to the adhesive cores of Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1, respectively. The size of the sample S was set to the larger one where the free part was 50 cm long and 30 cm long.

(1) When the thing of Example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: Distance a is 16cm, distance b is 6cm, angle e is 36 °
Dry: Distance a is 16cm, distance b is 6cm, angle e is 36 °
As shown in FIG. 1 (a), the curl state at the lower end has a width of 30 cm at the upper end, but the distance a is as short as 16 cm, which is about half the length at the lower end. The curled state. Curling did not disappear even after dry cleaning.

(2) When the thing of Example 2 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: Distance a is 17cm, distance b is 6cm, angle e is 35 °
Dry: distance a is 15.5 cm, distance b is 5.3 cm, angle e is 35 °
The curl state at the lower end is as shown in FIG. 1A, and the curl did not disappear even after dry cleaning.

(3) When the thing of the comparative example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 28cm, distance b is 1.2cm, angle e is 5 °
Dry: distance a is 28cm, distance b is 1.3cm, angle e is 6 °
What had a width of 30 cm at the upper end was a distance a28 cm at the lower end, and the state of the lower end was straight without any curling at the initial stage or after dry cleaning, and only the ends were slightly bent.

[Measurement result 2]
The same thing as the said measurement result 1 was used as a surface fabric and the adhesive interlining. The size of the sample S was set to the smaller one where the free part was 10 cm long and 10 cm long.

(1) When the thing of Example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: Distance a is 4cm, distance b is 2.6cm, angle e is 48 °
Dry: distance a is 3 cm, distance b is 2.5 cm, angle e is 58 °
Although it is the same sample as measurement result 1 (1), the size of the sample is small, so there is almost no influence of the weight of the suspended free fabric, and the curl state at the lower end is from measurement result 1 (1). Was also curled.

(2) When the thing of Example 2 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 4 cm, distance b is 2.8 cm, angle e is 50 °
Dry: distance a is 3 cm, distance b is 2.7 cm, angle e is 62 °
Although it is the same sample as the measurement result 1 (2), the size of the sample is small, so there is almost no influence of the weight of the cloth of the suspended free part, and the curl state at the lower end is from the measurement result 1 (2). Was also curled.

[Measurement result 3]
A plain woven fabric of 100% hemp was used as the front fabric, and the basis weight was 180 g / m ^2, which was bonded to the adhesive cores of Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1, respectively. The size of the sample S was set to the larger one where the free part was 50 cm long and 30 cm long.

(1) When the thing of Example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: Distance a is 17cm, distance b is 8cm, angle e is 42 °
Dry: distance a is 18 cm, distance b is 6.5 cm, angle e is 35 °
The curl state at the lower end is as shown in FIG. 1 (a). When dry cleaning is performed, the hemp fabric of the outer fabric tends to stretch, but the entire fabric is slightly stretched, but the curl disappears. There wasn't.

(2) When the thing of Example 2 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: Distance a is 19cm, Distance b is 7.5cm, Angle e is 36 °
Dry: Distance a is 19 cm, distance b is 6.5 cm, angle e is 34 °
The curl state at the lower end is as shown in FIG. 1A, and the curl did not disappear even after dry cleaning.

(3) When the thing of the comparative example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 29 cm, distance b is 0.6 cm, angle e is 3 °
What had a width of 30 cm at the upper end was a distance a29 cm at the lower end, and the state of the lower end was straight without any curling.

[Measurement result 4]
Melton of 98% wool and 2% nylon and 400 g / m ² as a surface fabric were used and bonded to the adhesive cores of Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1, respectively. The size of the sample S was set to the larger one where the free part was 50 cm long and 30 cm long.

(1) When the thing of Example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 18cm, distance b is 7.5cm, angle e is 40 °
The curl state at the lower end was as shown in FIG.

(2) When the thing of Example 2 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 20cm, distance b is 7cm, angle e is 35 °
The curl state at the lower end was as shown in FIG.
(3) When the thing of the comparative example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.

Initial: distance a is 30 cm, distance b is 0 cm, angle e is 0 °
What had a width of 30 cm at the upper end was also a distance a30 cm at the lower end, and the entire state was straight without curling at the lower end.

[Measurement result 5]
The same thing as the said measurement result 1 was used as a surface fabric and the adhesive interlining. The size of the sample S was set to the smaller one where the free part was 10 cm long and 10 cm long.

(1) When the thing of Example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 8.8 cm, distance b is 2 cm, angle e is 25 °
Although it is the same sample as the measurement result 4 (1), the size of the sample is small, but the basis weight (weight per unit) is large. The curl state was a state in which there was less curl than in measurement result 4 (1).

(2) When the thing of Example 2 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 8.8 cm, distance b is 1.5 cm, angle e is 20 °
Although it is the same sample as the measurement result 4 (2), but the basis weight (weight per unit) is large, the drooping free part fabric is greatly affected by the weight, and the curl state at the lower end is the measurement result 4 The curl was less than in (2).

[Measurement result 6]
Angola Calze Viva with 95% wool and 5% nylon as the surface fabric and 310 g / m ² per unit weight were used and bonded to the adhesive cores of Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1, respectively. The size of the sample S was set to the smaller one where the free part was 10 cm long and 10 cm long.

(1) When the thing of Example 1 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: distance a is 8cm, distance b is 2.1cm, angle e is 27.5 °
Dry: distance a is 8 cm, distance b is 2.6 cm, angle e is 35 °
Because the surface fabric is thicker than that of the measurement result 2, the curl state at the lower end is curled in the measurement result 2 (1), but in this sample, as shown in FIG. It was in a curled state. Curling did not disappear even after dry cleaning.

(2) When the thing of Example 2 is used as an adhesive interlining.
Initial: Distance a is 8cm, distance b is 2.1cm, angle e is 28 °
Dry: distance a is 8 cm, distance b is 2.6 cm, angle e is 37 °
The curl state at the lower end is as shown in FIG. 1B, and the curl did not disappear even after dry cleaning.

  The surface fabric used for measurement results 4 and 6 is a thick fabric used for winter jackets, etc., but the fabric bonded to the adhesive interlining of the present invention has sufficient curl for use as the clothes of the present invention. It is a state. As a result of various experiments, in the fabric in which the outer fabric and the adhesive interlining are bonded, the distance a is 25 cm or less and the distance b is 5 cm or more, or the distance b is 50 cm × 30 cm It has been found that if a is 25 cm or less and the angle e is 25 degrees or more, it is sufficient. Further, the free part is 10 cm × 10 cm in size, the distance a is 8.8 cm or less and the distance b is 1.5 cm or more, or the distance a is 8.8 cm or less and the angle e is 20 degrees or more. It has been found that the distance a is 8.5 cm or less and the distance b is 2 cm or more, or the distance a is 8.5 cm or less and the angle e is 25 degrees or more.

  An example of the case where the adhesive interlining of the present invention is used for a jacket will be described with reference to the examples shown in FIGS. FIG. 4A is a plan view showing how to arrange an adhesive interlining for bonding to the back part of the right front body, and FIG. 4B shows how to arrange an adhesive interlining for bonding to the right front body. It is a top view to show, (c) is a top view which shows the method of arrangement | positioning of the adhesive interlining of a back body.

  In FIG. 4, the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention is used for the lapel portion to be turned over, and the normal adhesive interlining 3 is used for the other portions. The adhesive interlining 1 and the adhesive interlining 3 are bonded to the outer fabric so as to overlap each other at the folding line. When the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention is used for the lapel portion of the turn-up portion in this way, the lapel portion tends to curl toward the body when bonded to the outer fabric, so that the tip of the lapel is warped. A beautiful kite is completed without

  In the autumn and winter outerwear, as shown in FIG. 4B, the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention is applied to the entire front body. In this case, it cut | judged so that the adhesive interlining 1 may exist only in the front body so that it may not exceed the folding line of a collar, and it may adhere | attach. A normal adhesive core 3 is used for the portion of the lapel ahead of the folding line. In the case of winter items, after the film adhesive core 4 is pasted on the front fabric at the shoulder portion, the adhesive interlining 1 and the adhesive interlining 3 are adhered to the front fabric so as to overlap each other at the folding line. By using the film adhesive core 4, the firmness and volume of the chest can be secured. The film adhesive core 4 may be a thin windproof and moisture permeable film.

  In the case of a summer jacket, as shown in FIG. 4 (b), the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention is not used for the entire front body, and only the portion near the front opening corresponding to the turnover portion is used. If the adhesive interlining 1 of the invention is used, extremely light clothes can be made.

  FIG. 4C shows the back body, and a normal adhesive core 3 is bonded to the entire surface. Since the back portion is almost flat in the body, the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention may not be used.

  FIG. 5 shows the use of the sleeve portion, and the adhesive sleeve 1 of the present invention is used on the side of the mountain sleeve (outer sleeve) shown in (a), and the lower sleeve (inner sleeve) shown in (b). Uses a normal adhesive core 3. Since the arm sleeve has a larger roundness on the side of the sleeve, it is suitable for using the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention.

  6 shows an adhesive interlining used for the pocket, FIG. 6 (a) shows a waist pocket, and FIG. 6 (b) shows a breast pocket, each using the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention. When used in such a pocket, it is preferable because the pocket is rounded according to the body.

  FIG. 7 shows how to use the adhesive interlining of the heel part. The upper interlining blade shown in (a) uses the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention over the entire surface, and the upper heel shown in (b) is a normal one. Adhesive interlining 3 is used. A normal adhesive interlining 3 is used for the ground shown in (c). As described above, when the adhesive interlining 1 of the present invention is used on the upper eyelid blade side, the eyelid is in a state along the neck and becomes a beautiful shape.

  Although the examples shown in FIGS. 4 to 7 are examples of a jacket, the adhesive interlining of the present invention can be used in the same manner for a suit, and the adhesive interlining of the present invention can also be used for other upper garments. be able to. In particular, since the body is rounded on the front body side, a three-dimensional effect can be expressed by using the adhesive interlining of the present invention for that portion.

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view in the weft direction (hatching is omitted) showing a state in which the adhesive interlining of the present invention and a front fabric are bonded together, and FIGS. 1 (a) and 1 (b) schematically show different curled states. It shows. It is a front view which shows the sample at the time of measuring the state of curl. It is a top view which shows the measurement point, distance, and angle for measuring the state of curl. FIG. 3A and FIG. 3B show the measurement points in different curl states. It is a top view which shows arrangement | positioning of the adhesive interlining for applying to the body of a jacket. It is a top view which shows arrangement | positioning of the adhesive interlining for applying to the sleeve of a jacket. It is a top view which shows arrangement | positioning of the adhesive interlining for applying to the pocket of a jacket. It is a top view which shows arrangement | positioning of the adhesive interlining for applying to the collar of a jacket.

Explanation of symbols

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Adhesive interlining 2 of the present invention Surface cloth 3 Normal adhesive interlining 4 Paper for gripping a sample 5 Hook for hanging a sample

Claims (3)

  All weft yarns are made of crimped yarns made of PTT fibers or side-by-side fibers of PTT polymer and polyester, and the first heat setting is performed at 180 to 200 ° C., and then 20 ° C. above the first temperature. Pulling the width of the fabric at a low temperature of 150 to 170 ° C., widening the width and performing the second heat setting, dot-coating an adhesive resin on the heat-set fabric, and forming an adhesive interlining The manufacturing method of the adhesive interlining for clothes.   The method for producing an adhesive interlining for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the adhesive interlining is a yarn in which warp is made of polyester yarn or natural fiber.   After obtaining the adhesive interlining for clothes by the method according to claim 1 or 2, the adhesive interlining is bonded to at least a part of the outer cloth of the clothes with a roller press. Method.

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