JP5106305B2 - Denim - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to denim and jeans fabrics. Specifically, it has a moist and slimy feeling, is light, soft and has a repellent texture, has heat retention, moisture absorption, water absorption, and excellent wearing comfort. It is about the denim place.

  Conventional denim fabric is mainly made of yarn-dyed spun yarn indigo-dyed with warp and white yarn not dyed with cotton as weft. The fabric structure is usually a 2/1 or 3/1 twill structure, and the front has a large amount of 67% to 75% dyed warp cotton, and the back (skin surface) is white weft cotton. It has a surface area of 67-75%. In any case, since these items are made of 100% cotton, they are comfortable in the summer, are hygroscopic and comfortable. On the other hand, when used for autumn / winter applications, the texture is hard and stiff, and it is cold and poor in heat retention. Furthermore, there is a tendency for the water absorption property to be low, and there is no product that has been completed as a denim for autumn and winter that has both texture and functionality.

  Accordingly, countermeasures conceivable in the industry regarding the texture characteristics and heat retaining properties required for autumn / winter denim are described from the following known literatures, information, etc. (1) to (3).

(1) Method of obtaining a moist, slimy, light, soft and repellent texture i) A moist and slimy feel using wool or cashmere as the material to be used. However, these materials have poor physical properties such as wear strength and tear strength, and cannot be applied to denim. If spun yarn of short fibers such as polyester or nylon is used as it is for denim, it will be light and soft. However, these materials have a low resilience and a low texture. Further, when 100% filament yarn (long fiber) such as polyester is used as a denim fabric, there is a resilience, but it is hard and does not give a moist and slimy feeling.

  ii) Further, in order to give a moist feeling as a post-processing, a fabric obtained by applying a moisturizing component such as squalane to the fabric by post-processing (for example, see Patent Documents 1, 2, and 3). The thing by post-processing has a problem inferior to washing durability. It is common to use a large amount of binder as a solution. However, a soft texture cannot be obtained due to the hardness of the binder.

iii) Further, a denim fabric in which a filament yarn (long fiber) such as polyester and a spun yarn are combined with a weft has been proposed (for example, see Patent Document 4).
In this document, an opal is made by using a multi-layer core yarn in which cotton is used for warp, polyester filament for weft, and acrylic fiber is coated on the core of polyurethane yarn, and then the cotton side is dissolved with sulfuric acid at the printing stage. Fabrics for processing have been proposed. However, as the material of the fabric, it is impossible to mix cellulosic fibers rayon which is soluble in acid. For this reason, a moist and slimy texture cannot be achieved. Moreover, when opal processing is carried out, it becomes a fabric with a sense of sheer. For this reason, it is not suitable for autumn / winter applications.

(2) Method for obtaining heat retention i) There is a method for obtaining heat retention by adhering a moisture permeable membrane to a cloth. However, with this method, although the heat retaining property is increased, it is not possible to obtain a fabric that is very comfortable to wear due to the texture that is soft and fluffy. That is, it is not suitable as a versatile product.

  ii) In addition, methods for obtaining heat retention properties using hollow fibers such as polyester filaments have been developed (see, for example, Patent Documents 5 to 7). Patent Document 5 proposes a method using a well-shaped cross-section hollow fiber, and Patent Document 6 proposes a lightweight denim with high strength using a polyester hollow crimped filament having three or more hollow parts. Document 7 proposes a denim that blends hollow filaments and other yarns and swells and has good slippage with the skin.

  Even if the method described in any of these documents is used, there is a problem common to hollow fibers. That is, when a hollow fiber is used, heat retention is enhanced. However, during the process of false twisting, twisting, weaving or raising, or during wearing, the hollow part is crushed or cracked due to pressure or tension, and the bulkiness is lost, and the heat retaining property cannot be exhibited. There's a problem.

  Also, hollow fibers are easily broken by spinning. For this reason, it is difficult to obtain a fine fiber, and it is poor in moist and slimy feeling. To solve this problem, a core-sheath composite fiber is made of polyester as the core component and nylon polymer as the sheath component, and the core component polyester is eluted with a heated alkaline solution at the stage of spinning yarn or after weaving. A fabric having an empty nylon spun yarn has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 8). According to this method, the crushing of the hollow part produced in the hollow fiber described in the above document can be improved. However, the alkaline solution used for the elution process embrittles the heat-retaining material such as rayon or acrylic and cannot be combined. Also, warp cotton indigo dye dissolves with alkali and contaminates white yarn nylon, resulting in poor quality. Furthermore, since nylon remains after elution, there are many problems such as a moist feeling and a lack of slimy feeling due to the texture that is peculiar to nylon.

(3) Method of obtaining water absorption It is difficult to achieve high water absorption of cotton denim. In other words, when 100% cotton is used and the woven raw machine is scoured without paste (continuous scouring), the fats and oils of cotton in the fabric do not fall off easily. For this reason, sufficient water absorption cannot be obtained. Further, after that, washing with a washer or the like is performed, and washing called a stone washer for physically washing with a polishing stone or a chemical washer containing a dye decomposing agent is performed. However, even if washing is enhanced in this way, a high level of water absorption cannot be obtained. Washing can improve water absorption for thin fabrics such as normal cotton shirts, but thick fabric denim in which thick yarns are densely woven does not perform sufficient washing. In order to achieve a high level of water absorption, it may be possible to solve the problem by repeating the above-described scouring and washing many times, but it is inefficient and cannot be applied due to high costs.

Thus, with these conventional techniques, it is difficult to have a texture and functionality (heat retention, water absorption) with a high texture in denim as an application for autumn and winter.
JP-A-2-300301 JP 2002-88649 A JP-A-10-131047 JP 2007-107167 A JP-A-9-143833 JP 2006-176913 A JP 2007-270358 A JP 2004-316003 A

  That is, the present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, has a moist and slimy feeling, is light, soft and repellent, has heat retention, moisture absorption, water absorption, and excellent wear comfort. The purpose is to provide the earth.

  In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have conducted extensive research and developed the following denim fabric. First, paying attention to viscose rayon mixed with natural protein disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 2001-3223 and 2001-1992928, a yarn obtained by blending polyacrylic fiber with this is used as the weft. This created a moist, slimy, light, soft texture and warmth. In addition, by twisting a deformed cross-section polyester filament into the weft, the volume exclusion effect due to the repulsive texture and the deformed shape was enhanced and plenty of air was included to give lightness. Furthermore, it was possible to obtain water absorption due to the capillary action of an irregular cross section, and a product that did not fade with one-wash processing was obtained. The absorption and desorption properties were solved by using cotton as the warp. That is, the present invention is as follows.

  The denim fabric of the present invention is composed of 40% by weight to 80% by weight of a polyester yarn having a warp composed of cotton yarn and an M value of 1.3 to 5.0 in the fiber cross section, and a natural protein added and mixed. 15% to 60% by weight of a blended yarn of viscose rayon fiber and polyacrylic fiber, or 1% to 7% by weight of a polyurethane elastic fiber is 30% by weight or more of the total Denim fabric using a weft thread that has been driven in, wherein the weft thread is exposed at least 40% or more on the back of the fabric.

The denim fabric satisfies the following requirements (1) to (6).
(1) Bending rigidity in the weft direction B value: 0.10 to 0.50 g · cm ² / cm
(2) Bending hysteresis width in the weft direction 2HB value: 0.15 to 0.45 g · cm / cm
(3) Surface roughness in the weft direction S MD value: 2.0 to 6.5 μm
(4) Thermal insulation rate: 8-25%
(5) Absorption / release moisture ΔMR value: 2.8% or more (6) Water absorption rate: 600 seconds or less

  The fiber cross section of the polyester filament yarn may be an X cross section.

  The viscose rayon fiber may contain a natural protein contained in milk at a fiber weight ratio of 400 mg / 100 g or more.

  The polyacrylic fiber may have a single fiber fineness of 1.5 dtex or less.

  The blended yarn may have a blended ratio of the viscose rayon fiber and the polyacrylic fiber of 20% by weight to 80% by weight.

  The twisted yarn may be twisted by stretching the polyurethane elastic fiber by 2.0 to 4.5 times during twisting.

  The twisted yarn may have a twisted number of 100 to 1000 times / m.

  In the denim fabric of the present invention, constituent yarns each having texture and functionality are used as weft yarns. Accordingly, it is possible to provide a denim fabric for autumn and winter that has a moist feeling, a slimy feeling, a light, soft and repellent texture, heat retention, moisture absorption, water absorption, and excellent wearing comfort.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the denim fabric of the present invention, constituent yarns each having texture and functionality are used as weft yarns.

[Weft]
The weft used in the present invention comprises 40% to 80% by weight of a polyester filament yarn having a fiber cross-section degree M value of 1.3 to 5.0, a viscose rayon fiber mixed with a natural protein and poly A twisted yarn containing 15% to 60% by weight of an acrylic fiber blended yarn and / or 1% to 7% by weight of a polyurethane elastic fiber is a weft in which 30% by weight or more of the whole is driven. .

[Synthetic yarn]
(Polyester filament yarn)
The polyester filament yarn that can be used in the present invention refers to a polymer fiber polymerized from an alcohol component and an acid component, specifically, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, sulfoisophthalic acid or isophthalic acid, It contains a copolyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene glycol or the like.

The polyester filament yarn that can be used in the present invention has an irregularity M value of the fiber cross section of 1.3 to 5.0. The irregularity M value (fiber radius ratio) referred to here is defined by the following equation.
Deformity M value = R1 / R2
Where R1: radius of the circumscribed circle of the cross section of the single fiber (μm), R2: radius of the inscribed circle of the cross section of the single fiber (μm).

  The larger the M value, the greater the degree of irregularity of the fiber. The fiber having such an irregularity has a cross-sectional shape having protrusions such as a triangular cross section, a square cross section (X cross section, a cross section), and a pentagon to octagon (star cross section). The polyester filament yarn is a long fiber.

  In the present invention, those having an M value of 1.3 to 5.0 are preferable from the viewpoint of texture, water absorption, entanglement and the like. As a specific shape, a square cross-section thread and a triangular cross-section thread having four to three protrusions are preferable from the above characteristics, and among them, the square cross section has a large volume exclusion between the threads / threads, and there is a gap between the threads / threads. It is particularly preferable because it is generated and the swelling becomes large. Specifically, X cross-section yarn and cross-section yarn are most preferable.

  In addition, the thing close | similar to what is called a round cross-section whose M value is less than 1.3 lacks a feeling of swelling in a texture, and is not preferable since water absorption performance falls. Also, if the M value exceeds 5.0, the cross-section will be too sharp and the thread on the surface of the fabric will be crushed or cracked due to friction during wear, resulting in “tekari” etc. Is not preferable.

  The polyester filament yarn used in the present invention may be contained in the twisted yarn by 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 50 to 60% by weight. If the polyester filament yarn is included within this range, a high-quality woven fabric having a repellent texture, a feeling of swelling, a water absorbing performance, and a good entanglement property during twisting with a spun yarn can be obtained. Specifically, it is a filament yarn of 220 to 440 dtex. If the ratio is outside this range, the effect of the present invention is not exhibited, and therefore, it is not preferable.

(Blend yarn)
The blended yarn that can be used in the present invention is composed of viscose rayon fibers and polyacrylic fibers to which a natural protein is added and mixed.

  The viscose rayon fiber to which natural protein is added and mixed is used for the purpose of imparting moist feeling, slimy feeling, moisture absorption, in particular, moisture retention. The viscose rayon fibers referred to in the present invention are regenerated fibers spun by the viscose method, and are short fibers and long fibers indicating viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon (cupra), and saponified acetate. In the present invention, a short fiber (raw cotton) of viscose rayon is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of soft texture. The natural protein to be added and mixed with this is a milk-derived protein component (natural amino acid) contained in milk, tyrosine, tryptophan, valine, phenylalanine, priron, leucine, alanine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, lysine, glycine, histidine. , Aspartic acid, arginine, glutamic acid, cystine, methionine and the like.

The total content of the natural amino acids is preferably 400 mg / 100 g or more, more preferably 700 mg / 100 g to 10000 mg / 100 g based on the weight of the viscose rayon fiber. As the single fiber fineness of the viscose rayon-based fiber, the fineness is preferable because it has a soft and supple texture, but 0.7 to 3.0 dtex is preferable from the viewpoint of physical properties and yarn production .

  The polyacrylic fiber is used to give the denim fabric a slimy feeling, a soft texture, particularly heat retention. The single fiber fineness of the polyacrylic fiber is preferably fine, preferably 1.5 dtex or less, and more preferably 0.5 dtex or more and 1.0 dtex or less. In addition, the polyacrylic fiber referred to in the present invention means other than the regular type polyacrylic fiber made from polyacrylonitrile, copolymerized or added with other compounds based on the acrylic composition, Includes polyacrylic fiber modified to anti-pilling type and water-absorbing type.

  There is no particular limitation on the blending rate of the viscose rayon fiber mixed with natural protein and the polyacrylic fiber, but the blending rate is 20% to 80% due to the texture, moisture absorption / moisture release, and heat retention. A weight percent spun yarn is preferred. Further, as the specific number of the blended yarn used, the hair number is equivalent to 110 to 27, and the number of 75 to 30 is particularly preferable because such performance is exhibited.

  The spinning method is not particularly limited, and normal ring spinning, check spinning, and the like can be applied.

  The blended yarn used in the present invention is preferably contained in the twisted yarn in an amount of 15 to 60% by weight from the viewpoint of functionality such as texture and heat retention.

(Polyurethane elastic fiber)
The twisted yarn used in the present invention may contain polyurethane elastic fibers. By including polyurethane-based elastic fibers in the twisted yarn, stretch properties are exhibited, and a fit is felt when worn, which is preferable for autumn / winter applications.

  It is preferable from the viewpoint of stretchability and stretch recovery of the woven fabric that the polyurethane-based elastic fiber is contained at 1% to 7% by weight in the twisted yarn. In addition, when polyurethane elastic fiber is stretched by 2.0 to 4.5 times at the time of twisting and then twisted, it is arranged at the core of the twisted yarn to improve the appearance quality and increase the stretch power. This is preferable.

(Twisting)
The polyester filament yarn, blended yarn, and, if necessary, polyurethane elastic fiber are twisted by a known method. It is a preferable condition that the number of twists of the twisted yarn is 100 to 1000 times / m from the viewpoint of soft texture, heat retention, and quality. If the number of twists is less than 100 times / m, the heat retention is improved, but the surface irregularities of the fabric are large and the quality is poor. On the other hand, when it exceeds 1000 times / m, the yarn tightening becomes strong, the texture is hard, and the heat retention is poor, which is not preferable. The fineness of the twisted yarn is not particularly limited. For example, the total fineness is 300 to 850 decitex in terms of long fiber, and the product at the average thickness of the fabric is 400 to 700 decitex.

  In the weft used in the present invention, the above-mentioned twisted yarn needs to be driven in at least 30% by weight. If it is driven 30% by weight or more of the whole, the above-mentioned effect can be given to the denim fabric of the present invention. It is most preferable to use a weft containing 80 to 100% by weight of the above twisted yarn. On the other hand, a small amount of nylon, synthetic fiber, or other natural fiber may be used in terms of design and surface appearance.

[Warning]
The warp used in the denim fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited on the premise that the above-mentioned twisted yarn is used as the weft, but it is preferable to mainly use cotton yarn from the viewpoint of moisture absorption / moisture release and appearance. Most preferred is an indigo dyed cotton yarn (cotton number: 5 to 10). In addition, cotton and polyurethane elastic fibers may be used to develop the stretch property of the vertical.

  The denim fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric having a structure in which wefts are exposed to at least 40% or more on the back surface of the woven fabric in order to maximize the effects of the present invention. Here, the exposure rate refers to the ratio of one complete structure on the back of the fabric to the surface of the weft. An exposure rate of 40% or more is preferable because a high-quality texture and high water absorption (sweat absorption) with a moist feeling on the back surface of the fabric, that is, the skin surface can be obtained. The texture of the woven fabric can be applied without being limited to a texture such as a twill weave, a plain weave, and a satin weave. Specifically, 2/1 twill (backside weft exposure rate: 67%) and 3/1 twill (backside weft exposure rate: 75%) are preferable.

  As described above, finishing is performed after weaving the woven fabric with warps and wefts. The finishing method is not particularly limited, but the usual method is to perform a desizing and scouring process continuously in a spread form on a woven fabric machine and set with dry heat (130 to 190 ° C.). Thereafter, it is washed with a washer at 40 ° C. for 10 minutes (one-washer processing), dried and finished. Alternatively, a method of raising after the scouring and washing and finishing is also included. In addition, although the method of raising is not particularly limited, a raised nap is preferable because the raised fluff becomes soft. The number of raising is particularly preferably about 4 to 8 times because the fabric is thin and has a light feeling. In the case of buffing, the fluff is short and there is a tingling sensation, which is not preferable.

  As described above, the woven fabric is evaluated for the scoured, washed and finished fabric, or the scoured, brushed, washed and finished fabric. The denim fabric of the present invention is evaluated based on the following evaluation method and has a predetermined value.

(1) Bending stiffness in the weft direction B value Evaluation device: Using a KES-FB2 pure bending tester (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.), measure the bending stiffness B value of the fabric when bent in the weft direction on the back side of the fabric. . The smaller the value, the lower the stiffness and the softer the texture. The B value of the present invention is in the range of 0.10 to 0.50 g · cm ² / cm. If it is this range, it is preferable on texture. If it is smaller than this range, the texture becomes tangled, and if it is larger than this range, it is not preferable because it is too hard.

(2) Bending hysteresis width 2HB value in the weft direction Using the same evaluation device as the B value, the bending hysteresis width 2HB value of the fabric when bent in the weft direction on the back side of the fabric is measured. The smaller the value, the less the fabric is distorted and the higher the resilience of the waist. The 2HB value of the present invention is in the range of 0.15 to 0.45 g · cm / cm, which is a preferable range in terms of texture. If it is larger than this range, the texture is lost. On the other hand, when it is smaller than this range, it is not preferable because the elasticity is too strong and the direction is too hard.

(3) the weft direction of the surface roughness S MD value evaluation device: KES-FB4 surface tester (manufactured by Kato Tech Co.) to measure the surface roughness S MD value of the fabric back surface of the weft direction. The smaller the value, the less uneven the fabric. S MD value of the present invention is in the range of 2.0～6.5Myuemu, less unevenness, a moist feel, preferred ranges slime feeling and slip feeling is maintained moderately. When the SMD value is less than 2.0, there is almost no unevenness and the surface is too slippery, which is not preferable. Meanwhile, those S MD value exceeds 6.5 becomes a touch was stiff too has irregularities, undesirable.

(4) Thermal insulation rate Evaluation device: Using KES-7 thermal insulation tester (manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.), the back of the fabric was brought into contact with a 30 ° C. heater for 10 minutes, and the power consumption of the heater at that time (watts) And the heat retention rate is obtained from the following formula. The measurement environment is 20 ° C. and humidity 65%.

Thermal insulation rate α (%) = (W0−W / W0) × 100
However, W0 is the power consumption (watt) of the heater when the fabric is not in contact with the heater, and W is the power consumption (watt) of the heater when the fabric is in contact with the heater.

  The larger the value of the heat retention rate, the higher the heat retention of the fabric. The heat retention rate of the present invention is in the range of 8 to 25%, which is a preferable range in which the heat retaining property is at a high level, there is warmth, and there is appropriate air permeability. When the value of the heat retention rate is out of this range, it becomes cold. On the other hand, it is difficult to obtain a higher level of the heat retention rate.

(5) Absorption / Desorption Humidity ΔMR Value After the fabric sample was completely dried, it was placed in a desiccator at 30 ° C., 90% humidity, 20 ° C. and 65% humidity, and the weight of the fabric after 24 hours (humidity absorption) ) And the ΔMR value is obtained from the following equation.
ΔMR = MR2-MR1 MR1 = (W1-W3) / W3 × 100%
MR2 = (W2-W3) / W3 × 100%
W1: Mass of test piece at 20 ° C. × 65% RH (g)
W2: Mass of test piece at 30 ° C. × 90% RH (g)
W3: Mass of the test piece in an absolutely dry state (g)
The greater the ΔMR value, the greater the difference between the moisture absorption and moisture release of the fabric, and the less likely it is to stuffy. The ΔMR value of the present invention is 2.8% or more. For example, 100% polyester is 0.1 to 0.2%, nylon: a level that is much less stuffy than 1.5 to 2%, and is excellent in wearing comfort. It is.

(6) Water absorption rate The water absorption rate is evaluated based on JIS L 1097 (Bullet method). A drop of water is dropped on the back of the fabric, and the time when the water is absorbed is measured. The shorter the time, the higher the water absorption. The water absorption speed of the present invention is 600 seconds or less, and even when sweated, sweat is absorbed quickly, and wear comfort is excellent. The water absorption rate is 600 seconds or less, preferably 300 seconds or less, and more preferably 100 seconds or less. A water absorption rate exceeding 600 seconds is not preferable because water absorption is slow. Here, the burette method is a method for directly evaluating the time for which the fabric absorbs water droplets. The reason why the water absorption speed is 600 seconds or less compared to the normal summer is that the innerwear is layered under the jeans in this winter compared to the summer, so the jeans fabric has a slow water absorption and is slightly water repellent. Since the water is physically absorbed by the fabric due to the wearing pressure of layering, the water absorption speed is set to a slower range than in summer.

  As described above, according to the present invention, there is a moist feeling, slimy feeling, light, soft and repellent texture, heat retention, moisture absorption, water absorption, comfortable wearing, which could not be obtained by the prior art. It is possible to provide a denim fabric for autumn and winter with excellent properties.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on examples, but the present invention is not necessarily limited thereto.

[Measuring method]
For the measurement and evaluation of the characteristics in this example, the method described below was used.

(1) Flexural rigidity in the weft direction The B value was evaluated by the method described in the specification.
(2) Bending hysteresis width in the weft direction The 2HB value was evaluated by the method described in the specification.
(3) Surface roughness in the weft direction SMD value was evaluated by the method described in the specification.
(4) The heat retention rate was evaluated by the method described in the specification.
(5) Moisture absorption / release humidity ΔMR value was evaluated by the method described in the specification.
(6) The water absorption rate was evaluated by the method described in the specification.
(7) The exposure rate of the weft on the back of the woven fabric was evaluated by the method described in the specification, and the woven fabric was decomposed to determine the warp and weft woven fabric density and fineness.
(8) The lightness of the woven fabric was expressed in basis weight (g / m ² ). The smaller the value, the lighter.
(9) Stretchability of woven fabric is the elongation ratio: JIS L 1096, section 8.14.1, method A, “Elongation ratio of woven fabric”, and the stretch recovery ratio is section 8.14.2, section A. The weft direction of the fabric was measured and evaluated according to “Elongation recovery rate of fabric”. The higher the value, the better the stretchability and recoverability.
(10) “Tekari”, which evaluates the degree of wear by friction while wearing a fabric, etc., is evaluated in five stages according to the JIS L 10849 academic deformation method (standard method). 5th grade: No light, 4th grade: good, 3rd grade: normal, 2nd grade: somewhat good, 1st grade: many, poor.

Example 1
(1) Weft manufacturing method i) Polyethylene terephthalate polymer chip is spun from a three-point die, and stretched to produce an X-section polyester filament yarn having an irregularity of 2.2: 165 dtex and 72 filaments. Two were used (total fineness 330 dtex).

  ii) A modified viscose rayon described in JP-A-2001-3223, wherein the amino acids tyrosine, tryptophan, valine, phenylalanine, priron, leucine contained in milk are mixed with a fiber weight ratio of 1598 mg / 100 g, alanine, isoleucine, Viscose rayon staple containing 992 mg / 100 g of serine, threonine and lysine, 174 mg / 100 g of glycine and histidine, natural protein of 1305 mg / 100 g of aspartic acid, arginine, glutamic acid, cystine and methionine in a total fiber weight ratio of 4069 mg / 100 g 1.4 decitex, 38 mm 40% by weight, acrylic fiber staple 0.7 decitex, 38 mm 60% by weight are mixed with card mix, ring-spun, hair count 52 (long fiber) To obtain a blend has been spun yarn having a single fiber of 190 dtex) in terms of.

  iii) Next, the polyester filament yarn and the spun yarn were twisted at a rate of 550 turns / m. The blend ratio of the twisted yarn was 63% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 37% by weight of the spun yarn (the viscose rayon: 14.8% by weight and the polyacryl: 22.2% by weight).

(2) Weaving iv) Next, the warp yarn is indigo-dyed cotton No. 8 single yarn (730 decitex in terms of long fiber) and pasted into the above-mentioned twisted yarn: 520 dtex as weft yarn. did.

  v) The texture of the fabric was a 3/1 twill structure, the raw machine width was 181 cm, the warp density was 72 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 55 yarns / 吋. The total mixing ratio of this green machine was 65% by weight of cotton, 22% by weight of the polyester, 5% by weight of the rayon, and 8% by weight of the acrylic. Moreover, the exposure rate of the weft on the back side of the fabric was 75%.

(3) Finishing process vi) Next, this fabric is continuously scoured with desizing, and set with dry heat: set at 180 ° C and then washed with a washer at 40 ° C for 10 minutes (one-washer processing) Finished. The raw machine width was 172 cm, the warp density was 75 / y, and the weft density was 56 / y.

(4) Product evaluation vii) Product evaluation is performed on the finished fabric, and the results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
Except for the fact that we used cotton No. 10 single yarn for weft yarn, weaving, weaving, desizing scouring, one-washer processing, finishing (100% cotton fabric) according to Example 1 Is also shown in Table 1.

(Example 2)
(1) Weft production method i) Low-temperature false twisting of the X-section polyester filament raw yarn of Example 1 to obtain a 165 dtex, 72-filament processed yarn with an irregularity of 1.9, and two of these were used ( Total fineness 330 decitex).

  ii) Viscose rayon staple 1.4 dtex as described in Example 1, 60 mm by weight of 38 mm and 0.7 dtex of acrylic staple, 40 mm by weight of 38 mm, and a hair count of 52 (in terms of long fiber) A single spun yarn of 190 dtex was obtained.

  iii) Next, the polyester filament yarn, the spun yarn, and 44 dtex polyurethane elastic fiber “Lycra” (manufactured by Toray DuPont) were stretched 3.5 times while being twisted at 600 times / m. Twisted. The mixing ratio of the twisted yarn was 61% by weight of the polyester filament yarn, 35% by weight of the spun yarn (14% by weight of the viscose rayon and 21% by weight of polyacryl), and 4% by weight of the polyurethane.

(2) Weaving iv) Next, the warp yarn was indigo-dyed cotton No. 8 single yarn (730 decitex in terms of long fiber) and pasted into the above twisted yarn: 520 decitex as weft to make a woven fabric .

  v) The texture of the fabric was a 2/1 twill structure, the raw machine width was 181 cm, the warp density was 72 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 56 yarns / 吋. The total mixing ratio of this raw machine was 65% by weight of cotton, 22% by weight of the polyester, 8% by weight of the rayon, and 5% by weight of the acrylic. Moreover, the exposure rate of the weft on the back side of the fabric was 67%.

(3) Finishing processing vi) Next, the woven fabric was continuously subjected to desizing and scouring processing in an expanded form, set at 140 ° C., and further washed with a washer at 40 ° C. for 10 minutes (one-washer processing). Subsequently, it raised up 6 times with the needle cloth raising machine, and it set by dry heat 180 degreeC, and finished. The raw machine width was 150 cm, the warp density was 84 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 57 yarns / 吋.

(4) Product evaluation vii) The finished fabric is evaluated for product, and the results are shown in Table 1.

  As is apparent from Table 1, the denim fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 using the wefts of the present invention for the wefts are moist and slimy, light, soft and repellent. It can be seen that there is heat retention and water absorption.

  In addition, in both Example 1 and Example 2, the moisture absorption / moisture releasing properties did not reach that of Comparative Example 1, but there was no stuffiness and a level with no problem. In addition, the denim fabric of Example 2 has higher heat retention and water absorption than the denim fabric of Example 1, and has excellent stretch properties and stretch recovery properties. .

  On the other hand, the denim fabric of Comparative Example 1 is an ordinary woven fabric that is excellent in moisture absorption and moisture release, but has a texture that is stiff and hard, has poor heat retention and water absorption, and is unsuitable as a denim fabric for autumn and winter. It was.

(Example 3), (Example 4), (Comparative Example 2), (Comparative Example 3)
A woven fabric in which the mixing ratio of the X-section polyester filament raw material of Example 1 and the spun yarn (spun milk powder-added spun viscose rayon and acrylic blended yarn) in the weft was changed was manufactured and finished.

  That is, the mixing ratio of the weft polyester filament yarn / blend yarn is as follows: Example 3: 74 wt% / 26 wt%, Example 4: 45 wt% / 55 wt%, Comparative Example 2: 29 wt% / 71 wt% Comparative Example 3: 88% by weight / 12% by weight.

(Example 3)
(1) Weft production method i) Polyester filament yarn of Example 1: 165 dtex, 72 filaments, 110 dtex, and 24 filaments were produced, using one 165 dtex and two 110 dtex (total fineness 385) Decitex).

  ii) Viscose rayon to which skim milk powder was added and acrylic were mixed to obtain a spun yarn of single yarn No. 72 (138 decitex in terms of long fiber).

  iii) Next, the polyester filament yarn and the spun yarn were twisted at a rate of 550 turns / m. The mixing ratio of the twisted yarn was 74% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 26% by weight of the spun yarn.

(2) Weaving iv) Next, the warp yarn is indigo-dyed cotton No. 8 single yarn (730 decitex in terms of long fiber) and glued to the above-mentioned twisted yarn: 523 decitex as a weft. did.

  v) The texture of the fabric was a 3/1 twill structure, the raw machine width was 181 cm, the warp density was 72 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 55 yarns / 吋. The mixing ratio of the weft of this raw machine is 74% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 26% by weight of the spun yarn, and the mixing ratio of the whole fabric is 65% by weight of cotton, 26% by weight of the polyester, 3.8% by weight of the rayon, and the acrylic It was 5.2% by weight. Moreover, the exposure rate of the weft on the back side of the fabric was 75%.

(3) Finishing process vi) Next, this fabric is continuously scoured with desizing, and set with dry heat: set at 180 ° C and then washed with a washer at 40 ° C for 10 minutes (one-washer processing) Finished. The raw machine width was 172 cm, the warp density was 75 / y, and the weft density was 56 / y.

(4) Product evaluation vii) Product evaluation is performed on the finished fabric, and the results are shown in Table 2.

Example 4
(1) Weft production method i) Polyester filament raw yarn: 110 dtex, 24 filaments were used, and two were used (total fineness 220 dtex).

  ii) Viscose rayon to which skim milk powder was added and acrylic were blended to obtain a single spun yarn of hair count 36 (275 decitex in terms of long fiber).

  iii) Next, the polyester filament yarn and the spun yarn were twisted at a rate of 550 turns / m. The mixing ratio of the twisted yarn was 45% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 55% by weight of the spun yarn.

(2) Weaving iv) Next, the warp yarn is indigo-dyed cotton No. 8 single yarn (730 decitex in terms of long fiber) and glued to the above-mentioned twisted yarn: 495 decitex as weft yarn. did.

  v) The texture of the fabric was a 3/1 twill structure, the raw machine width was 181 cm, the warp density was 72 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 55 yarns / 吋. The mixing ratio of the weft of this green machine was 45% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 55% by weight of the spun yarn. Further, the mixing ratio of the entire fabric was 65% by weight of cotton, 16% by weight of the polyester, 5% by weight of the rayon, and 14% by weight of the acrylic. Moreover, the exposure rate of the weft on the back side of the fabric was 75%.

(3) Finishing process vi) Next, this fabric is continuously scoured with desizing, and set with dry heat: set at 180 ° C and then washed with a washer at 40 ° C for 10 minutes (one-washer processing) Finished. The raw machine width was 172 cm, the warp density was 75 / y, and the weft density was 56 / y.

(4) Product evaluation vii) The finished fabric is evaluated for product, and the results are shown in Table 2.

(Comparative Example 2)
(1) Weft production method i) Polyester filament raw yarn: 165 dtex, 72 filaments were used and one was used (total fineness 165 dtex).

  ii) Viscose rayon to which skim milk powder was added and acrylic were mixed to obtain a single spun yarn having a hair count of 25 (396 decitex in terms of long fiber).

  iii) Next, the polyester filament yarn and the spun yarn were twisted at a rate of 550 turns / m. The mixing ratio of the twisted yarn was 29% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 71% by weight of the spun yarn.

(2) Weaving iv) Next, the warp yarn is indigo-dyed cotton No. 8 single yarn (730 decitex in terms of long fiber) and pasted into the above-mentioned twisted yarn: 561 dtex as weft, did.

  v) The texture of the fabric was a 3/1 twill structure, the raw machine width was 181 cm, the warp density was 72 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 53 yarns / 吋. The mixing ratio of the weft of this green machine was 29% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 71% by weight of the spun yarn. Further, the mixing ratio of the entire fabric was 65% by weight of cotton, 10% by weight of the polyester, 5% by weight of the rayon, and 20% by weight of the acrylic. Moreover, the exposure rate of the weft on the back side of the fabric was 75%.

(3) Finishing process vi) Next, this fabric is continuously scoured with desizing, and set with dry heat: set at 180 ° C and then washed with a washer at 40 ° C for 10 minutes (one-washer processing) Finished. The raw machine width was 172 cm, the warp density was 75 pieces / 吋, and the weft density was 54 pieces / 吋.

(4) Product evaluation vii) The finished fabric is evaluated for product, and the results are shown in Table 2.

(Comparative Example 3)
(1) Manufacturing method of weft yarn i) Polyester filament raw yarn: 165 dtex, 72 filaments were used, and three were used (total fineness 495 dtex).

  ii) Viscose rayon to which skimmed milk powder was added and acrylic were mixed to obtain a single spun yarn having a hair count of 72 (138 decitex in terms of long fiber).

  iii) Next, the polyester filament yarn: 3 (A) was twisted 550 times / m. Further, three polyester filament yarns were twisted together with one of the blended yarns at 550 times / m (B). A was 100% by weight of the polyester filament yarn, and the mixing ratio of the twisted yarn of B was 78% by weight of the polyester filament yarn and 22% by weight of the spun yarn.

(2) Weaving iv) Next, the warp yarn is indigo-dyed cotton No. 8 single yarn (730 decitex in terms of long fiber) and glued to the above polyester A: 495 decitex and B twisted yarn: 638 One decitex was alternately driven as a weft to make a woven fabric.

  v) The structure of the woven fabric was a 3/1 twill structure, and the raw machine width was 181 cm, the warp density was 72 / w, and the weft density was 52 / w. The mixing ratio of the weft of this raw machine was 88% by weight of polyester and 12% by weight of spun yarn. The mixing ratio of the entire woven fabric was 65% by weight of cotton, 31% by weight of the polyester, 0.6% by weight of the rayon, and 3.4% by weight of the acrylic. Moreover, the exposure rate of the weft on the back side of the fabric was 75%.

(3) Finishing process vi) Next, this fabric is continuously scoured with desizing, and set with dry heat: set at 180 ° C and then washed with a washer at 40 ° C for 10 minutes (one-washer processing) Finished. The raw machine width was 172 cm, the warp density was 75 yarns / 吋, and the weft density was 53 yarns / 吋.

(4) Product evaluation vii) The finished fabric is evaluated for product, and the results are shown in Table 2.

From Table 2, the denim fabric of Examples 3 and 4 using the mixed twisted yarn in which the mixing ratio of the polyester filament yarn and the blended yarn is within the range of the present invention satisfies the requirements (1) to (6) of the present invention. It is clear that it has a moist and slimy feel, is light, soft and has a repellent texture, and has heat retention and water absorption. Meanwhile, denim range smaller Comparative Example 2 of the present invention is the mixing ratio of the polyester filament yarn, the bending rigidity B value, bending hysteresis width 2HB value, surface roughness S MD value is less than the requirements of the present invention, texture It was hard and inferior with no resilience. Moreover, greater range of mixing ratio of the polyester filament yarn present invention, denim Comparative Example 2, the surface roughness S MD value is greater than the requirements of the present invention, the surface has had Zaratsu also warmth, intake・ It was an ordinary fabric that was inferior in moisture release and unsuitable for autumn / winter denim.

(Example 5), (Example 6), (Comparative Example 4), (Comparative Example 5)), (Comparative Example 6), (Comparative Example 7)
Denims of Examples 5 and 6 and Comparative Examples 4 to 7 below according to Example 1 except that the cross-sectional shape and profile of the polyester filament raw yarn and the single fiber fineness of acrylic and the exposure rate of the weft are changed. The ground was manufactured and finished.

(Example 5)
A denim fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polyester filament yarns having different degrees of profile of the X-section yarn were used. Specifically, the cross-sectional shape: X cross-sectional polyester filament yarn, the degree of profile: 3.5, the acrylic single fiber fineness: 0.7 dtex, and the weft exposure rate: 75%. The raw yarn was 165 dtex and 72 filaments were used, and two of these were used (total fineness 330 dtex).

The denim fabric of Example 5 was a woven fabric exhibiting excellent characteristics, in particular, a heat retention rate: 14.8% and a water absorption rate: 14 seconds. Further, the bending rigidity B value of the other weft direction, the weft direction of the bending hysteresis width 2HB value, surface roughness S MD value of the weft direction, for the intake and discharge humidity, the requirements of the present invention (1) to (6) Confirmed to meet. Tekari is grade 5 and there is no problem.

(Comparative Example 4)
A denim fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the polyester filament yarn having a different degree of profile in Example 5 was used. Specifically, the cross-sectional shape: X cross-sectional polyester filament yarn, the degree of irregularity: 5.4, the acrylic single fiber fineness: 0.7 dtex, and the weft exposure rate: 75%.

  The denim fabric of Comparative Example 4 using a polyester filament yarn having a high degree of irregularity satisfies the requirements (1) to (6) of the present invention, but has a second grade and inferior quality.

(Example 6)
In contrast to Example 5, a denim fabric was prepared using polyester filament yarns having different cross-sectional yarn shapes. Specifically, the cross-sectional shape: Y cross-section (triangular cross-section) polyester filament yarn, irregularity: 3.5, acrylic single fiber fineness: 0.7 dtex, and weft exposure rate: 75%. The raw yarn was 165 dtex and 72 filaments were used, and two of these were used (total fineness 330 dtex).

In Example 6, the bending stiffness particularly in the weft direction B value: 0.15 g · cm ² / cm, the bending hysteresis width in the weft direction ² HB value: 0.21 g · cm / cm, and the texture is softer and the resilience is high. Met. Moreover, it confirmed that the requirements (1)-(6) of this invention were satisfy | filled also about the surface roughness SMD value of another weft direction, a heat retention rate, moisture absorption / release, and a water absorption speed | rate.

(Comparative Example 5)
Denim fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the cross-sectional shape and the degree of profile of Examples 5 and 6 were changed. Specifically, the cross-sectional shape is a round cross-section polyester filament yarn, the profile is 1.1, the acrylic single fiber fineness is 0.7 dtex, and the weft exposure is 75%.

  The denim fabric of Comparative Example 5 is an example in which the polyester filament yarn is a round cross-section yarn and the degree of deformation is smaller than the range of the present invention, and the heat retention rate is 7.4%, the water absorption rate is 721 seconds, and the properties are inferior. Met.

(Comparative Example 6)
A denim fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the single fiber fineness of the polyacrylic fiber of Example 5 was changed. Specifically, the cross-sectional shape: X cross-sectional polyester filament yarn, the degree of profile: 3.5, the acrylic single fiber fineness: 1.6 dtex, and the weft exposure rate: 75%.

Denim Comparative Example 6, a single fiber fineness of polyacrylic fibers are comparative examples which were thicker than the range of the present invention, the surface of the weft direction roughness S MD value: a 7.4 .mu.m, denim lacks smooth feel It was the ground.

(Comparative Example 7)
A denim fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the exposure rate of the weft in Example 5 was changed. Specifically, the cross-sectional shape: X cross-sectional polyester filament yarn, the degree of irregularity: 3.5, the acrylic single fiber fineness: 0.7 dtex, and the weft exposure rate: 25%. The weft exposure rate was changed from a 3/1 twill structure to a 1/3 twill structure.

  The denim fabric of Comparative Example 7 was a denim fabric having inferior characteristics such as the weft exposure rate smaller than the range of the present invention, the heat retention rate: 7.6%, and the water absorption rate: 1321 seconds.

Claims (7)

Warp composed of cotton yarn,
40% to 80% by weight of polyester filament yarn having an M value of 1.3 to 5.0 in the cross section of the fiber, and 400 mg / 100 g or more of natural protein contained in milk with respect to the weight of the viscose rayon fiber viscose rayon fibers and polyacrylic 1% to 7 weight twisted yarn or the blended yarn of 15 wt% to 60 wt% and polyurethane elastic fiber blended yarn containing 15 wt% to 60 wt% of fibers containing Is a denim fabric using wefts that have been driven in at least 30% by weight,
Denim fabric in which the weft is exposed at least 40% or more on the back of the fabric. The denim fabric according to claim 1, wherein the denim fabric satisfies the following requirements (1) to (6) simultaneously.
(1) weft direction bending rigidity B value: 0.10~0.50g · cm ² / c m
(2) Bending hysteresis width in the weft direction 2HB value: 0.15 to 0.45 g · cm / cm
(3) Surface roughness in the weft direction SMD value: 2.0 to 6.5 μm
(4) Thermal insulation rate: 8-25%
(5) Absorption / release moisture ΔMR value: 2.8% or more (6) Water absorption rate: 600 seconds or less The denim fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a fiber cross section of the polyester filament yarn is an X cross section. The denim fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyacrylic fiber has a single fiber fineness of 1.5 dtex or less. The denim fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the blended yarn has a blended ratio of the viscose rayon fiber and the polyacrylic fiber of 20 wt% to 80 wt%. The denim fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the twisted yarn is twisted by stretching the polyurethane elastic fiber by 2.0 to 4.5 times during twisting. The denim fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the twisted yarn has a twisted number of 100 to 1000 times / m.