JP5368541B2 - Method for producing washable fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention, washing resistance is concerned in the manufacture how washable woven containing good animal fiber.

  Animal hair fibers such as wool have the highest moisture absorption exotherm among natural fibers and are used in clothing such as suits. Generally, it cannot be said that wool has good washing resistance, and washing with a home washing machine using water is difficult. This is due to the occurrence of shrinkage when itching action in the presence of water. For this reason, Patent Document 1 proposes to obtain a bulky animal hair spun yarn by subjecting the animal hair fiber to an oxidation treatment, a reduction treatment, and a spun yarn after the reduction treatment. In Patent Document 2, a protein constituting the wool scale is removed, and a triazine skeleton is introduced by cyanuric chloride to provide shrinkage resistance and form stability. In Patent Document 3, washing resistance is given by partially oxidizing wool with an oxidizing agent and reducing the weight with an alkaline protease.

  However, the methods proposed in Patent Documents 1 to 3 have a problem that the stretchability and washing dimension stability are not yet satisfactory.

JP 2011-137259 A JP 2001-329464 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-060780

The present invention is the improved conventional problems, to provide a manufacturing how washable woven having a high stretchability and washing dimensional stability.

Method of manufacturing a washable fabric of the present invention, viewed including whether or animal fiber consisting of animal fiber, a method for producing a fabric spandex fibers are not included, and shrink-proof the fabric by the urethane-based resin, After that, the reduction treatment is performed to cut the inter-fiber adhesion to soften the texture and cause the shrinkage and shrinkage of the woven fabric to give the stretch property . The warp direction stretch property (EM1) in the KES test is Woolmark test method TM31 of 5% or more, weft stretchability (EM2) of 10% or more, and an additional quality standard (for washing machine washing products) according to woolmark / woolmark blend / wool blend quality standards It is characterized by obtaining a woven fabric that clears the criteria of washing resistance evaluated in the washing test specified in TM281 .

  The washable woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric containing animal hair fibers shrink-proofed with urethane-based resin, and then subjected to reduction treatment to cut the inter-fiber adhesion and soften the texture and cause swelling shrinkage. To shrink and impart stretch properties. As a result, it is possible to provide a washable fabric having high stretchability and washing dimensional stability and a washable product using the same, although the fabric does not contain spandex fibers.

(1) Shrink-proofing process In the present invention, first, a fabric containing animal hair fibers is shrunk with a urethane-based resin. The animal hair fiber is covered with urethane resin to prevent the scale from rising, and the fiber movement is stopped by bonding the fibers with resin. Thereby, shrink-proof processing can be performed. Although the texture of the cloth becomes hard due to the adhesion between the fibers, most of the adhesion between the fibers is removed and becomes soft when rubbed during the reduction treatment. Urethane resin used for shrink-proofing is manufactured by Lanxess, trade name "Syntaplet BAP", Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., trade name "Elastolon NewBAP", Ohara Palladium, trade name "Pararesin SSW-28" is commercially available.

(2) Reduction treatment The reducing agent used in the present invention is a general drug used for woolen fabric or hair set or reduction treatment. Specifically, sulfites such as sulfites and bisulfites, thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, mercaptosuccinic acid and salts thereof, cysteic acid and salts thereof, and thiols such as 2-mercaptoethylamine and 2-mercaptoethanol Phosphines such as tributylphosphine, hydroxymethylphosphonium chloride, tris-3-hydroxypropylphosphine.

  By the reduction treatment, disulfide bonds in animal hair fibers can be reduced and cleaved in an aqueous reducing agent solution to be sufficiently swollen. Any reduction treatment apparatus can be used as long as it can be dipped, and a general dyeing machine such as an anti-dyeing machine can be used. It is economically preferable that the bath ratio is as low as possible within the range in which the processing apparatus operates. The concentration of the reducing agent used varies depending on the reducing power of the reducing agent used, but is preferably in the range of 0.1% owf (owf is an abbreviation for on the weight of fiber) to 80% owf. A range of 30% owf is more preferred.

  The temperature of the reduction treatment is preferably 40 ° C. or higher and 106 ° C. or lower. When the treatment temperature is too low, the cleavage of disulfide bonds is small, and when the treatment temperature is too high, the quality of animal hair fibers deteriorates. The pH of the reduction treatment is preferably 4 or more and 11 or less. If the pH is too low, the cleavage of disulfide bonds is small, and if it is too high, the quality of the animal hair fibers deteriorates. Furthermore, when the reducing agent is selected from thiol compounds containing carboxylic acid (for example, thioglycolic acid and salts thereof, mercaptosuccinic acid and salts thereof), the pH of the treatment bath is changed from acidic to alkaline during treatment. Is preferred. The reduction treatment time is preferably 10 to 60 minutes. If it is too short, the cleavage of disulfide bonds is small, and if it is too long, the cost increases economically.

  The fiber-to-fiber bond is cut by reduction treatment to soften the texture, and the fabric is contracted by causing swelling and shrinkage, and stretch properties are imparted after drying. As a result, high stretchability and washing dimensional stability are imparted even though the fabric does not contain spandex fibers.

  The reduction treatment is preferably performed in a dyeing machine. This is because by giving a stagnation effect, the fiber-to-fiber adhesion at the time of shrink-proofing can be cut to soften the texture, and the tension applied to the fabric can be reduced to cause sufficient swelling and shrinkage.

(3) Fiber composition The fabric of the present invention comprises animal hair fibers or contains animal hair fibers. When animal hair fibers are included, the animal hair fibers should be 50-100%, the remainder being one or more of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, nylon fibers and acrylic fibers, natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, and protein fibers such as silk. It can be. In order to prevent deterioration, it is preferable not to include spandex fibers.

(4) Physical properties of woven fabric The woven fabric of the present invention has a warp direction stretch property (EM1) of 5% or more and a weft direction stretch property (EM2) of 10% or more in the KES test. It is surprising that the warp direction stretchability (EM1) is 5% or more and the weft direction stretchability (EM2) is 10% or more despite the fact that the fabric does not contain spandex fibers. When the stretchability is high as described above, human movement is not restricted when tailored to a suit, and comfort is improved. Here, the KES test is based on an objective evaluation method for the texture of clothing fabrics, proposed by Prof. Katsuo Kawabata, Kyoto University, by the “Texture Measurement and Standardization Research Committee” established within the Japanese textile mechanics community. It is manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., and evaluated by the product names "KES-FB1-AUTO" and "KES-FB2".

  Also, the washing resistance standard of the additional quality standard (for washing machine lightly washing products) in the wool mark / wool mark blend / wool blend quality standard is cleared. As a result, washing using water can be performed using a household washing machine. The washing resistance standard here is evaluated by the washing test defined in the wool mark test methods TM31 and TM281 and is as shown in Table 1. The TM31 washing test is a test method used to measure the relaxation dimension change, felt shrinkage and total shrinkage of wool fiber products, and is evaluated by the ISO 6330 5A and 7A washing cycle programs. However, both programs are performed with the load reduced to 1 kg.

The calculation formulas are as follows: (1) Relaxation dimensional change rate in latitude (WS) and warp (LS) direction, (2) Felt shrinkage rate, (3) Total shrinkage rate, (4) Cuff dimensional change rate, (5) Edge The difference (%) in dimensional change is calculated by the following formulas.
(1) Relaxation dimension change rate (%) = (RM−OM) / OM × 100
(2) Felt shrinkage (%) = (FM-RM) / RM x 100
(3) Total shrinkage (%) = (FM-OM) / OM x 100
(4) Cuff dimensional change rate (%) = (FCM-RCM) / RCM x 100
(5) Edge dimensional change difference (%) = CS-WS or CS-LS
However, each abbreviation is as follows.
OM: Master
RM: Measurement value after relaxation treatment
FM: Measured value after felt processing
RCM: Measured value of cuff part before relaxation treatment
FCM: Measurement value of cuff part after relaxation treatment + felt treatment
WS: Average dimensional change rate in the weft direction (total)
LS: Average dimensional change rate in the warp direction (total)
CS: Dimensional change rate of the cuff part in the latitude or longitude direction (total)

  In the woven fabric of the present invention, the EM1 and EM2 after the TM31 washing test are preferably larger than the EM1 and EM2 before the test, and the fabric fatigue due to washing is preferably small. Thereby, there is no fall of the stretch property by washing | cleaning, fabric | dye fatigue property improves, and it becomes a thing preferable for washable clothing.

  The fabric fatigue is evaluated by comparing the shear and bending physical properties measured by 2HG, 2HG5, and 2HB in the KES test before and after washing. The fact that 2HG, 2HG5, 2HB after washing is smaller than 2HG, 2HG5, 2HB before washing means that there is no fabric hardening due to washing and there is little fabric fatigue.

  In the present invention, the animal hair fiber is typically wool, but also includes lamb wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca, camel, and angora.

The present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited to the following examples.
<Stretchability>
The stretchability was measured by the stretchability (EM1 and EM2) in the warp direction and the weft direction in the KES test. Specifically, the maximum elongation (elongation at a maximum load of 500 g / cm) of a tensile shear tester (KES-FB1AUTO manufactured by Kato Tech) was evaluated.
<Washing dimension stability>
Washing dimensional stability was evaluated by the washing test described in TM31.
<Fabric fatigue>
The fabric fatigue was measured by 2HG, 2HG5 and 2HB (average of the respective circumstances) in the KES test before and after washing. Specifically, 2HG and 2HG5 of a tensile shear tester (Katotech KES-FB1AUTO) and 2HB of a bending tester (Katotech KES-FB2) were used for evaluation.

Example 1
(1) Fabric The fabric used was 100% wool from Australian Merino, pre-dyed plain fabric using a double yarn with 60 counts, and a basis weight of 170 g / m ² .
(2) Shrink-proofing Using a padding machine, the following recipe urethane-based shrink-proofing agent was used at a pick-up rate of 60%, drying at 130 ° C for 120 seconds, and curing at 170 ° C for 90 seconds.
Product name "Elastolon NewBAP" (urethane-type shrinkage agent): 30% sol
Saisol KOC (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku, penetrant): 0.2% sol
Sodium bicarbonate (pH adjuster): 0.6% sol
(3) Reduction treatment Using an anti-dyeing machine, treatment was performed at the following recycle with a bath ratio of 1:20 and 65 ° C for 40 minutes.
Reduction treatment Recipe sodium sulfite (reducing agent): 10% owf
Texport SN-10 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical, penetrant): 0.1 g / L

(Example 2)
The following recipe was used only for shrink-proofing, and the rest was the same as in Example 1.
Non-shrink processed recycle Ohara Paradium Co., Ltd., trade name "Pararesin SSW-28" (urethane-based shrink-proof agent): 15% sol
Saisol KOC (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku, penetrant): 0.2% sol
Sodium bicarbonate (pH adjuster): 0.6% sol

(Comparative Example 1)
The sample which performed only the shrink-proof process in Example 1 and did not perform a reduction process was set as Comparative Example 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
The sample which performed only the reduction process in Example 1 and did not perform the shrink-proof process was set as Comparative Example 2.

  Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the above examples and comparative examples. Although Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 could not achieve shrinkage and stretchability at the same time, Examples 1 and 2 were able to achieve high stretchability and washing dimensional stability.

Fabric of the present invention, tailoring et al are in washable products, including a suit. A suit is a set of jackets and trousers. It may be for men or women. In addition to suits, it can be applied to jackets (outerwear), slacks (trousers), waistcoat (vest), skirt, and over.

Claims (5)

Look including whether or animal fiber consisting of animal fiber, a method for producing a fabric spandex fibers are not included,
The fabric is shrink-proofed with a urethane-based resin, and then subjected to a reduction treatment to cut the adhesion between fibers to soften the texture, and to cause swelling shrinkage to shrink the fabric, thereby imparting stretch properties .
The warp direction stretchability (EM1) in the KES test is 5% or more, the weft direction stretchability (EM2) is 10% or more,
Also, the criteria for washing resistance evaluated in the washing test specified in the wool mark test methods TM31 and TM281 of the wool mark / wool mark blend / wool blend quality standard and the additional quality standard (for washing machine lightly washed products) are cleared. A method for producing a washable fabric, characterized in that the fabric is obtained . The method for producing a washable fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the reduction treatment is performed in a dyeing machine. The method for producing a washable fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the fabric is 100% animal hair fiber. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the EM 1 and EM2 after the TM31 washing test are larger than the EM 1 and EM2 before the testing, and the fabric fatigue is smaller than before the TM31 washing test . Manufacturing method . The method for producing a washable fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the fabric fatigue is evaluated by shear and bending properties measured by 2HG, 2HG5, and 2HB in a KES test.