JP5378694B2 - Powder makeup cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a powdered cosmetic which inhibits the deposition of crystals of a ceramide and excels in the uniformity of a cosmetic film and makeup persistence. <P>SOLUTION: The powdered makeup cosmetic includes (A) a ceramide, (B) an ester of lauroyl sarcosine and a lower alcohol, (C) a hydrogenated phospholipid, and (D) a powder. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&amp;INPIT

Description

The present invention relates to a powder makeup cosmetic, and more particularly to a powder makeup cosmetic that can disperse ceramide stably and is excellent in the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the long lasting makeup.

  Ceramide is known to have a lipid barrier as a major component in stratum corneum lipids, and to improve the moisture retention of the stratum corneum on skin with reduced moisture, such as rough skin and dry skin. Yes. Therefore, various cosmetics containing ceramide have been proposed, and powder cosmetics using ceramide are also disclosed (Patent Document 1).

However, since ceramide has high crystallinity, it is difficult to stably blend it into a powder cosmetic, and there is a problem that the cosmetic film becomes non-uniform due to precipitation of crystals or is inferior in makeup.
JP 2001-158717 A

  Therefore, there is a need for a technique capable of stably blending ceramide into powder cosmetics, and the present invention suppresses the precipitation of ceramide crystals, and is excellent in the uniformity of the cosmetic film and long-lasting makeup. It is an object of the present invention to provide a powder cosmetic.

  In view of such circumstances, the present inventors have intensively studied to solve the above problems, and as a result, by combining laurolyl sarcosine, an ester of a lower alcohol, and a hydrogenated phospholipid, ceramide crystals can be suppressed, It has been found that the uniformity of the decorative film and the longevity of the makeup are improved. Furthermore, it has been found that the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the longevity of the cosmetic film can be further improved by mixing ceramide with an emulsion composition together with the laurolyl sarcosine, the ester of lower alcohol and the hydrogenated phospholipid, and then mixing with the powder. The invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention
The following components (A) to (D);
(A) Ceramide (B) An ester of lauroyl sarcosine and a lower alcohol (C) Hydrogenated phospholipid (D) A powder makeup cosmetic characterized by containing powder.

  The powder make-up cosmetic of the present invention can suppress ceramide crystals, and thus can effectively exert the moisturizing effect of ceramide, and is excellent in the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the longevity of the makeup, It is also excellent in usability.

  The ceramide of component (A) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics. Specific examples include ceramide produced using yeast, pseudo-ceramide by chemical synthesis, The ceramide obtained from the plant etc. are mentioned, More specifically, the ceramides 1-6 are illustrated and can be used 1 type or in combination of 2 or more types. Among these, ceramide 2 or ceramide 3 is preferable because a particularly excellent makeup-holding effect can be obtained.

  The content of the component (A) in the powder makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.03 to 0.3% by mass (hereinafter abbreviated as “%”), more preferably 0.05 to 0.00%. 1%. Within this range, an excellent makeup-holding effect can be obtained, and the spread and spreadability can be good when applying makeup, and the usability is high.

  The ester of lauroyl sarcosine of the component (B) used in the present invention and a lower alcohol is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics, but the lower alcohol has 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferable examples include methyl ester, ethyl ester, n-propyl ester, isopropyl ester, n-butyl ester, isobutyl ester, secondary butyl ester, tertiary butyl ester, etc. Among these, isopropyl ester is particularly preferable. . Such an ester of lauroyl sarcosine and lower alcohol is obtained by using lauroyl sarcosine as a raw material and replacing the hydrogen atom of this carboxyl group with sodium using sodium hydride and the like, then tosyl ester of lower alcohol or thionyl chloride to lower alcohol. It can be obtained by reacting a halide obtained by the action. Moreover, as a commercial item, "Eldou SL-205" (Ajinomoto Co., Inc .: Lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl) can be mentioned.

  The content of the component (B) in the powder make-up cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.15 to 6%, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5%. In addition, ester of component (B) lauroyl sarcosine and lower alcohol has high solubility with respect to ceramide of component (A) and has an action of uniformly attaching ceramide to the powder. In order to effectively exhibit such an action, the mixing ratio of the component (A) and the component (B) in the powder makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention is set such that (A) :( B) is 1: 5. It is preferable to set it as the range of -1: 20, More preferably, it is the range of 1: 10-1: 15. When the blending ratio of the component (B) to the component (A) is less than 1: 5, the ceramide is not sufficiently dissolved, and the effect of uniformly attaching the ceramide to the powder may not be sufficiently exhibited. If the amount is too much, the effect reaches its peak, and the degree of freedom of prescription may be impaired.

  The hydrogenated phospholipid of component (C) used in the present invention improves the uniform dispersibility of ceramide, improves the skin familiarity of powder cosmetics, gives a moist feeling, and reduces the feeling of powder when used. Have Furthermore, as described later, when an emulsion composition is formed together with the components (A) and (B), it functions as a good surfactant.

  The hydrogenated phospholipid of component (C) is a phospholipid hydrogenated, and preferably has an iodine value of 0 to 40 in terms of stability to oxidation and heat, for example, extracted from soybean, egg yolk, etc. In addition to those obtained by hydrogenating natural lecithin according to a conventional method, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylserine, neutral phospholipids, etc. may be mentioned, and one or more of these may be combined. Can be used. In particular, phosphatidylcholine is preferable because it has a high effect of reducing the familiarity and powder feeling of powder makeup cosmetics, and the phosphatidylcholine content in the hydrogenated phospholipid of component (C) is preferably 20% or more. .

  The blending amount of the component (C) in the powder make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.03 to 0.3%, and when in this range, the feeling of use such as non-stickiness is better. It will be something.

  The powder of component (D) used in the present invention is used for the purpose of imparting a makeup effect. As the powder of this component (D), as long as it is a powder that is usually used in cosmetics, spherical, plate-like, needle-like shapes, fumes, fine particles, pigment grades, etc., porous, It is not particularly limited by the particle structure such as non-porous, and examples thereof include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, and composite powders. Specifically, titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silica, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide, water Inorganic powders such as chromium oxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, mica, synthetic mica, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride, Bright powders such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica, iron oxide coated mica titanium, organic pigment coated mica titanium, aluminum powder, nylon powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, acrylonitrile-methacrylic Acid copolymer powder, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer powder, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, polyurethane powder, wool powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose, N- Organic powders such as acyl lysine, organic tar pigments, pigment powders such as organic pigment lake pigments, fine particle titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium oxide containing silica, Examples include composite powders such as zinc oxide-containing silica, and one or more of these can be used.

  Among these, titanium oxide, black titanium oxide, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, silica, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium oxide, water, which are metal oxides or composites thereof By selecting chromium oxide, magnesium aluminum silicate, titanium oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, organic pigment-coated mica titanium, powder makeup cosmetics with higher cosmetic effect can be obtained. Therefore, it is particularly preferable.

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (D) in the powder makeup cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, 70-99% is preferable from the point of the makeup effect.

  In addition to the above essential components (A) to (D), the powder make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention is formulated with components that are usually used in a powder makeup cosmetic composition within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. You can also. Examples of such optional components include oily components, aqueous components, cosmetic components, fragrances, preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, and antioxidants.

  The powder makeup cosmetics of the present invention can be obtained by producing according to a conventional method using the above-described essential components and optional components added as necessary. For example, the components (A) to (C) Is heated to 70 to 100 ° C., mixed and dissolved, mixed with component (D), pulverized and compression-molded.

  Further, it is preferable to emulsify the oil phase containing the components (A) to (C) and the aqueous phase to obtain an emulsified composition, and then mix with the component (D) because the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the longevity of the makeup can be further improved. . In addition to the components (A) to (C), for example, as oils usually used in cosmetics, the oil phase includes origins of animal oils, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, solid oils, semi-solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils, etc. Regardless of the properties of oil, etc., blend hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine oils, lanolin derivatives, etc. Can do. Specific examples include hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene, polybutene, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, and fisher trops wax; molasses, olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamia Oils and fats such as peanut oil; waxes such as montan wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, gay wax; cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diisostearate Diglyceryl acid, diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol Fatty acid esters, esters such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di (cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl); stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, rosin acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, etc. Fatty acids; higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol; low polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, high polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethyl Silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and fluorine-modified silicone; such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, and perfluorooctane Tsu Motokei oil acids; lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin alcohols; and the like, may be blended one or more of these.

  On the other hand, water is used for the aqueous phase. In addition to water, polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerins such as glycerin and polyglycerin, and alcohols such as ethanol. It may contain an aqueous component such as a kind. The content of water in the emulsion composition is preferably 70 to 95%, more preferably 80 to 90%. Such a range is preferable in that the emulsified state of the components (A) to (C) is improved.

Examples of the method for preparing the emulsified composition include a method of emulsifying with a desper mixer, a homogenizer or the like. In order to obtain finer particles, it is preferable to repeatedly carry out the emulsification treatment as necessary at a spraying pressure of 500 to 3000 kg / cm ² using a high-pressure emulsifier such as a microfluidizer. Moreover, it is preferable that the emulsified droplets of the emulsified composition are prepared so that the average particle diameter is in the range of 200 nm to 1000 nm. Within this range, it becomes possible to finely disperse the ceramide of component (A) in the component (D) powder more finely, and a better makeup lasting can be obtained. The average particle size is a value measured with a Coulter counter (Beckman Coulter, Inc .: Submicron Particle Analyzer N5).

  The obtained emulsified composition is mixed with the powder of component (D). Then, if necessary, this is pulverized, compression-molded, and then dried to remove water to obtain the powder makeup cosmetic of the present invention. Examples of drying conditions include 25 to 80 ° C. and 3 to 10 hours.

  Examples of the powder makeup cosmetic of the present invention include powder foundation, eye shadow, blusher, white powder and the like.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.

Production Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Production Examples 1 to 2
Preparation of ceramide-containing emulsion composition:
A ceramide-containing emulsion composition was prepared by the composition shown in Table 1 and the following production method. Moreover, the average particle diameter of the emulsified droplet was measured. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Manufacturing method)
[Production Examples 1-2 and Comparative Production Examples 1-2]
A. Ingredients 1-3 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed uniformly.
B. Ingredients 4-6 are heated to 90 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add B to A and emulsify.
D. C is cooled.
E. D is processed twice with a microfluidizer at an injection pressure of 1000 kg / cm ² .

[Production Example 3]
A. Ingredients 1-3 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed uniformly.
B. Ingredients 4-6 are heated to 90 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add B to A and emulsify.
D. C is cooled.
E. D is processed once with a microfluidizer at an injection pressure of 700 kg / cm ² .

[Production Example 4]
A. Ingredients 1-3 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed uniformly.
B. Ingredients 4-6 are heated to 90 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add B to A and emulsify.
D. C is cooled.

(Measurement of average particle size)
About the ceramide containing emulsion composition obtained by the said manufacturing method, the average particle diameter of the emulsion droplet was measured using the Coulter counter (Beckman Coulter Co., Ltd. product: submicron particle analyzer N5).

Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-2
Powder foundation:
A powder foundation was prepared by the composition shown in Table 2 and the following production method. Further, the following evaluation methods and evaluation criteria were used to evaluate the uniformity of the cosmetic film, makeup lasting, usability over time (taken), and uniform dispersibility of ceramide (presence of aggregates). The results are also shown in Table 2.

(Manufacturing method)
[Example 1]
A. Ingredients 1-6 are mixed uniformly.
B. Ingredients 8 to 10 are heated to 90 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add 7 to A and mix uniformly.
D. Add B to C and mix uniformly.
E. D is pulverized with a pulverizer.
F. Compress E into a metal pan.
[Examples 2-5 and Comparative Examples 1-2]
A. Ingredients 1-6 are mixed uniformly.
B. Add 7 to A and mix uniformly.
C. Add 11-16 to B and mix uniformly.
D. C is pulverized with a pulverizer.
E. E is compression molded into a metal pan and dried at 40 ° C. for 10 hours to remove purified water.

(Evaluation method)
(Uniformity of decorative film)
The powder foundations of Examples and Comparative Examples were applied to a 5 cm × 10 cm range of an artificial skin model (trade name Bioplate, manufactured by Beaulux Co., Ltd.) using a cosmetic sponge. The uniformity of the decorative film was evaluated by arbitrarily selecting 5 points from the applied site and calculating the color variation between the 5 points.
As a specific calculation method, a hunter's L, a, and b values are measured using a spectral color difference meter (trade name SZ-Σ2000, manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.). Color variation was calculated.
(1) The average value of each of the five L, a, and b values is calculated.
L _AVE = (L ₁ + L ₂ + L ₃ + L ₄ + L ₅ ) / 5
a _AVE = (a ₁ + a ₂ + a ₃ + a ₄ + a ₅ ) / 5
b _AVE = (b ₁ + b ₂ + b ₃ + b ₄ + b ₅ ) / 5
(2) The color difference between the value of each of the arbitrary five points and the average value is calculated.
ΔE ₁ = ((L ₁ −L _AVE ) ² + (a ₁ −a _AVE ) ² + (b ₁ −b _AVE ) ² ) ^1/2
ΔE ₂ = ((L ₂ −L _AVE ) ² + (a ₂ −a _AVE ) ² + (b ₂ −b _AVE ) ² ) ^1/2
ΔE ₃ = ((L ₃ −L _AVE ) ² + (a ₃ −a _AVE ) ² + (b ₃ −b _AVE ) ² ) ^1/2
ΔE ₄ = ((L ₄ −L _AVE ) ² + (a ₄ −a _AVE ) ² + (b ₄ −b _AVE ) ² ) ^1/2
ΔE ₅ = ((L ₅ −L _AVE ) ² + (a ₅ −a _AVE ) ² + (b ₅ −b _AVE ) ² ) ^1/2
(3) The average of the color difference between each of the arbitrary five points and the average value is calculated.
ΔE = (ΔE ₁ + ΔE ₂ + ΔE ₃ + ΔE ₄ + ΔE ₅ ) / 5

[Evaluation criteria and judgment criteria]
(Evaluation): (Score) (Judgment)
Very good: ΔE is 0 or more and less than 1.0 ◎
Good: ΔE is 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 ○
Normal: ΔE is 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 △
Defect: ΔE is 3.0 or more ×

(With makeup)
The artificial skin model used for the evaluation of the uniformity of the decorative film was immersed in a simulated sebum / sweat mixture of glyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate: squalene: water = 40: 40: 20 for 5 hours with stirring. Thereafter, the artificial sebum model was dried, arbitrarily selected 5 points, the L, a, and b values of the hunter were measured with a spectral color difference meter, and the color difference was calculated in the same manner as the evaluation of the uniformity of the decorative film.
The pseudo sebum sweat mixture Delta] E _before the color difference before immersion in the color difference after immersion and _after Delta] E, the color difference after immersion and the color difference before immersion and Delta] E _{cosmetic durability} was calculated as follows.
ΔE _{makeup holding} = _before ΔE- _after ΔE

[Evaluation criteria and judgment criteria]
(Evaluation): (Score) (Judgment)
Very good: ΔE _makeup is 0 or more and less than 1.0 ◎
Good: ΔE _{makeup has} 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 ○
Normal: ΔE _makeup is 2.0 or more and less than 3.0 △
Defect: ΔE _makeup is 3.0 or more ×

(Usability over time (taken))
The powder foundation of the product of the present invention and the comparative product were stored at 40 ° C. for 1 month, and the state of removal was observed using a sponge.
[Evaluation criteria and judgment criteria]
(Evaluation): (Judgment)
Can be used without problems: ◎
Slightly poor: △
Can not be used and can not be used: ×

(Ceramide dispersion uniformity (aggregates))
After rubbing the powder foundation of the product of the present invention and the comparative product 10 times with a sponge, the press surface was observed and the number of aggregates of 1 mm or more per square centimeter was measured.
[Evaluation criteria and judgment criteria]
(Evaluation): (Judgment)
Less than 3: ◎
3 or more and less than 5: △
5 or more: ×

  From Table 2, the powder foundations of Examples 1 to 5 of the product of the present invention have high uniformity of the cosmetic film, good makeup durability, no problem in usability over time, and few aggregates and dispersion of ceramide The uniformity was very high. On the other hand, the powder foundation of Comparative Example 1 in which the component (C) was not blended was poorly evaluated in terms of the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the longevity of the makeup. Further, the powder foundation of Comparative Example 2 in which the component (B) was not blended could not be used because the foundation could not be obtained over time, and a large number of aggregates were confirmed, and the powder foundation was not realized.

Example 6: Face powder (powder type)
A face powder (powder type) having the following composition was prepared by the following production method.
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Talc 85
2. Mica titanium 5
3. Emulsion composition of Production Example 1 10

(Manufacturing method)
A. Ingredients 1-2 are mixed uniformly.
B. Add 3 to A and mix uniformly.
C. B is pulverized with a pulverizer.
D. C is dried at 40 ° C. for 10 hours to remove purified water.
E. D was filled into a container to obtain a face powder.

  The face powder (powder type) of Example 6 had very few aggregates and uniform dispersibility of ceramide. In addition, the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the longevity of the makeup were also very good.

  The powder make-up cosmetic composition of the present invention can stably contain ceramide having a moisturizing effect, is excellent in uniform dispersibility of the cosmetic film, long-lasting makeup, and excellent in usability and feeling of use. It is useful.

Claims (2)

Next components (A) to (C)
(A) an ceramide (B) an ester of lauroyl sarcosine and a C1-C4 lower alcohol (C) an emulsified composition obtained by emulsifying an oil phase containing a hydrogenated phospholipid and an aqueous phase;
Next ingredient (D)
(D) A powder makeup cosmetic obtained by mixing powder and drying it,
The powder make-up cosmetic wherein the blending ratio of the component (A) and the component (B) is 1: 5 to 1:20 .   The powder makeup cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the average particle size of the emulsified droplets of the emulsified composition is adjusted to 200 to 1000 nm.