JP5409190B2 - Substantially arc-shaped tape interlining and its manufacturing method - Google Patents
Substantially arc-shaped tape interlining and its manufacturing method Download PDFInfo
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- JP5409190B2 JP5409190B2 JP2009190146A JP2009190146A JP5409190B2 JP 5409190 B2 JP5409190 B2 JP 5409190B2 JP 2009190146 A JP2009190146 A JP 2009190146A JP 2009190146 A JP2009190146 A JP 2009190146A JP 5409190 B2 JP5409190 B2 JP 5409190B2
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 6
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims description 76
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000004840 adhesive resin Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920006223 adhesive resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
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- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
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- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920005992 thermoplastic resin Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920002292 Nylon 6 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 241001596784 Pegasus Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000000465 moulding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001200 poly(ethylene-vinyl acetate) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006122 polyamide resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
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Description
本発明は、平面において略円弧状の形状を保持している高伸長性テープ芯地に関する。 The present invention relates to a highly extensible tape interlining that has a substantially arc shape in a plane.
従来、スカート、スラックス、ズボン等の腰周りのベルト部分、襟、帽子等に使用されているテープ芯地の形状としては、平面において直線状のものが大半であった。しかしながら、近年、デザイン性やシルエット重視の傾向から、着用時に体の腰部の形状に合うようにするため、以下の特許文献１には、伸縮性が１８％以下の伸縮性芯地について、略円弧状の形状を呈するテープ芯地が開示されている。 Conventionally, as the shape of the tape interlining used for a belt portion around the waist such as a skirt, slacks, and trousers, a collar, a hat, etc., the shape of the tape interlining is mostly linear. However, in recent years, from the trend of emphasizing design and silhouette, in order to match the shape of the waist of the body when worn, the following Patent Document 1 describes a stretchable interlining having a stretchability of 18% or less. A tape interlining having an arcuate shape is disclosed.
一方、最近では、動きやすさなどの着用感のある１８％超の高伸長（ストレッチ）性を有し、表地素材に追従することができる高伸長性テープ芯地の要求が高まっている。 On the other hand, recently, there is an increasing demand for a highly stretchable tape interlining having a stretchability of more than 18% with a feeling of wearing such as ease of movement and capable of following the surface material.
１８％超の高伸長性テープ芯地として、平面において直線状の形状を呈するものを、体の腰部の形状に合うように略円弧状に型抜きされた表地に、適用する場合には、縫製段階で、アイロンなどの仮接着による「いせ（縮縫）込み」を、芯地プレス機を用いた表地への接着前に、実施する必要があった。この場合には、接着後や縫製後に、「ぶくつき（表地又は芯地に発生する部分的な水泡状のうき）」や「剥離」などが発生するという問題があった。一方、略円弧状に型抜きした高伸長性テープ芯地を使用する場合には、該テープ芯地にバイアス地の目部分が含まれるため、接着後や縫製後に、寸法変化を生じやすく、着用しているうちに型崩れや「ほつ（解）れ」などが発生するという問題があった。 Sewing when applying a linear shape in a plane as a highly extensible tape interlining of more than 18% to a surface material that has been punched into a generally arc shape to match the shape of the waist of the body At the stage, it was necessary to carry out “Ise (shrinking)” by temporary bonding such as an iron before bonding to the outer surface using an interlining press. In this case, after bonding or sewing, there is a problem that “bumping (partial water-bubble-like swell generated on the surface or interlining)” or “peeling” occurs. On the other hand, when using a highly extensible tape interlining punched out in a substantially arc shape, the tape interlining includes the eye portion of the biased area, so that it is likely to cause dimensional changes after bonding and sewing. While doing so, there was a problem that out of shape and "hot" (dissolution) occurred.
前記したように、特許文献１には、伸縮性布地の経方向の定荷重伸長率が８〜１８％である伸縮性布地からなり、表面に接着樹脂を有する、平面において略円弧状を呈する接着芯地が開示されている。特許文献１には、直線状の接着芯地のテープ部の長辺一辺を差動ロックミシンにて縫い縮めて、該芯地を略円弧状にしたと記載されている。ここで、特許文献１における「差動ロックミシンによる縫い縮め」とは、オーバーロック縫い（縁かがり縫い）により、ロックミシンの差動送り機能を使用して、直線状の接着芯地のテープ部の片縁を「縮み縫い」して、略円弧状の形状を保持した接着芯地を作製したものと理解される。すなわち、特許文献１には、１８％以下の伸長率のテープ芯地に関しては、縁かがり縫いにより略円弧状を呈する接着芯地を作製することができることが教示されている。 As described above, Patent Document 1 discloses an adhesive having a substantially circular arc shape in a plane, which is made of a stretchable fabric having a constant load elongation rate of 8 to 18% in the warp direction of the stretchable fabric and having an adhesive resin on the surface. An interlining is disclosed. Patent Document 1 describes that the long side of the tape portion of the linear adhesive interlining is sewn with a differential lock sewing machine so that the interlining has a substantially arc shape. Here, “sewing shrinkage by differential lock sewing machine” in Patent Document 1 refers to a tape portion of a linear adhesive interlining by using the differential feed function of the lock sewing machine by overlock sewing (edge stitching). It is understood that an adhesive interlining having a substantially arc-shaped shape was produced by “shrinking” one edge of each. That is, Patent Document 1 teaches that an adhesive core having a substantially arc shape can be produced by edge stitching with respect to a tape core having an elongation rate of 18% or less.
しかしながら、特許文献１に教示された方法に従って、１８％を超える高伸長のテープ芯地を、ロックミシンの差動送り機能を使用して、縁かがり縫いにより略円弧状に加工しようとしても、縫い縮めれば縮めるほど縫い目が動かない状態になってしまい、略円弧状の形状を保持しているテープ芯地は得られないことを、本願発明者らは、実験を繰り返し確認した。 However, according to the method taught in Patent Document 1, even if an attempt is made to process a highly stretched tape interlining of more than 18% into a substantially arc shape by edge stitching using the differential feed function of the lock sewing machine. The inventors of the present application repeatedly confirmed that the seam is in a state that does not move as it shrinks, and a tape interlining having a substantially arc shape cannot be obtained.
より詳細には、１８％を超える高伸長性のテープ芯地に関しては、差動ロックミシンを使用した縁かがり縫いにおいて、１本針の場合、一定の曲率を保持することができなかったが、２本針の場合には、ある程度の曲率を保持することができた。しかしながら、かかる差動ロックミシンは、二重環縫いミシンに比較して、ミシン糸の消費量が２〜３倍と多く、材料コスト面での問題がある。また、このようなミシン糸の消費量が多いことに起因して、テープ芯地の接着時、縫目部分の「当たり（表地面における凹凸）」の発生や縫目部分での接着不良も発生した。これらの問題を回避しようとして、ミシン糸の繊度を小さくすることや縫目ピッチを大きくても、逆に、ミシン仕掛け時の糸切れや曲率の保持性のさらなる低下などの新たな問題が発生した。 More specifically, for a highly stretchable tape interlining of more than 18%, a constant curvature could not be maintained in the case of a single needle in edge stitching using a differential lock sewing machine. In the case of two needles, a certain degree of curvature could be maintained. However, such a differential lock sewing machine has a problem in terms of material cost because the consumption amount of the sewing thread is two to three times that of the double chain stitch sewing machine. In addition, due to the large consumption of such sewing thread, when the tape interlining is bonded, the "spot (unevenness on the surface)" of the seam and the poor adhesion at the seam also occur. did. In order to avoid these problems, even if the fineness of the sewing thread is reduced and the stitch pitch is increased, new problems such as thread breakage at the time of sewing and further decrease in curvature retention occur. .
すなわち、１８％を超える高伸長のテープ芯地については、特許文献１に教示された「差動ロックミシンによる縫い縮め」によっては平面において略円弧状の形状を保持しているテープ芯地を作製することはできない。その結果、スカート、スラックス、ズボン等ベルト部分のデザイン形状とテープ芯地の湾曲状態とが合致されず、縫い縮め部の「パッカリング（縫った時にミシン目にできる縫い縮みやひきつりによる歪み）」、接着不良などが発生し、縫製における作業性を低下させていた。 That is, for a high-strength tape interlining of more than 18%, a tape interlining having a substantially arc-shaped shape in a plane is produced by “sewing and shrinking with a differential lock sewing machine” taught in Patent Document 1. I can't do it. As a result, the design shape of the belt part such as skirts, slacks and trousers does not match the curved state of the tape interlining, and “puckering (distortion due to sewing shrinkage or tension that can be perforated when sewing)” of the seam shrinkage part. Adhesion failure and the like occurred and the workability in sewing was lowered.
本発明が解決しようとする課題は、前記した従来技術の円弧状テープ芯地の問題点を解決し、高伸長性を有し、表地との追従性及び保形性を有し、かつ、所定の曲率半径を有する略円弧状のテープ芯地及びその製法の提供することである。 The problem to be solved by the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the arc-shaped tape interlining of the prior art, to have high extensibility, to follow and retain shape with the outer surface, and to The present invention provides a substantially arc-shaped tape interlining having a radius of curvature and a manufacturing method thereof.
本発明者らは、１８％を超える高伸長性のテープ芯地に関して、適正なミシンの縫目種類や使用するミシン糸のタイプなどを鋭意検討し、実験を重ねた結果、高伸長性テープ基布の片端を、伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸を用いて、二重環縫いミシンで、二重環縫いにより縫い縮めることにより、所定の略円弧状の形状を保持しているテープ芯地を作製することができることを見出し、本発明を完成するに至った。
すなわち、本発明は以下の通りである。
The inventors of the present invention have intensively studied the types of stitches of the appropriate sewing machine and the type of sewing thread to be used, etc., with respect to the highly stretchable tape interlining exceeding 18%. A tape that retains a predetermined substantially arcuate shape by sewing and shrinking one end of the cloth with a double chain stitch sewing machine using an elastic sewing thread having an elongation rate of 20 to 40%. The inventors have found that an interlining can be produced and have completed the present invention.
That is, the present invention is as follows.
［１］表面に接着樹脂を有し、かつ、テープ長さ方向の伸長率が１８％超４０％以下である高伸長性テープ状基布からなるテープ芯地であって、該高伸長性テープ基布の片端を、伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸を用いて、二重環縫いミシンで、二重環縫いにより縫い縮めることにより、平面において曲率半径３０ｃｍ以上２００ｃｍ以下の略円弧状の形状を保持していることを特徴とする前記テープ芯地。 [1] A tape interlining made of a highly extensible tape-like base fabric having an adhesive resin on the surface and having an elongation rate in the tape length direction of more than 18% and 40% or less, the highly extensible tape One end of the base fabric is sewn with a double chain stitch sewing machine using a stretch sewing thread with an elongation rate of 20 to 40%. The tape interlining having the shape of the above.
［２］前記伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸が、熱接着性である、前記［１］に記載のテープ芯地。 [2] The tape interlining according to [1], wherein the stretchable sewing thread having an elongation rate of 20 to 40% is heat adhesive.
［３］以下のステップ：
表面に接着樹脂を有し、かつ、テープ長さ方向の伸長率が１８％超４０％以下である高伸長性テープ状基布の片端を、伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸を用いて、二重環縫いミシンで、二重環縫いにより縫い縮める、
を含む、平面において曲率半径３０ｃｍ以上２００ｃｍ以下の略円弧状の形状を保持しているテープ芯地の製造方法。
[3] The following steps:
Using one end of a highly stretchable tape-like base fabric having an adhesive resin on the surface and an elongation rate in the tape length direction of more than 18% and not more than 40%, an elastic sewing thread having an elongation rate of 20-40% is used. With a double chain stitch machine,
And a method for producing a tape interlining having a substantially arc shape with a radius of curvature of 30 cm or more and 200 cm or less on a plane.
［４］前記伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸が、熱接着性である、前記［３］に記載のテープ芯地の製造方法。 [4] The method for producing a tape interlining according to [3], wherein the stretchable sewing thread having an elongation rate of 20 to 40% is thermally adhesive.
本発明によれば、高伸長性のテープ芯地を、平面において略円弧状に加工し、その形状を保持することができるため、縫製時の縫目部分での接着不良、縫製後の「剥がれ」、「ぶくつき」、「当たり」、「パッカリング」、縫製後のテープ芯地の「ほつ（解）れ」などの従来の円弧状テープ芯地の問題点を解決し、腰部回り方向に高ストレッチ性を持たせ、表地との追従性や保形性を持たせることのできる所定の曲率の略円弧状テープ芯地、すなわち、仕立て映えに優れるテープ芯地を提供することができる。さらに、本発明は、縫製時での作業効率向上、ミシン糸ロスの低減などの経済的な効果も奏する。 According to the present invention, a highly extensible tape interlining can be processed into a substantially arc shape on a flat surface, and the shape thereof can be maintained. Therefore, poor adhesion at the seam portion at the time of sewing, “peeling after sewing” ”,“ Bumps ”,“ hits ”,“ puckering ”, and the problems of conventional arc-shaped tape interlinings such as“ fraying ”of the tape interlining after sewing. It is possible to provide a substantially arc-shaped tape interlining having a predetermined curvature that has high stretchability in the direction, and can follow and maintain shape with the outer surface, that is, a tape interlining excellent in tailoring. . Furthermore, the present invention also provides economic effects such as improved work efficiency during sewing and reduced sewing thread loss.
本発明に用いられる高伸長性テープ芯地に用いる高伸長性テープ基布は、テープ長さ方向に伸長性を有する。高伸長性テープ基布としては、伸長方向に使用される高伸縮性の糸として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリアミド系の６ナイロン、６６ナイロンなど、それらの捲縮加工糸、芯糸にポリウレタン繊維などを使用した鞘芯構造したカバーリング糸などを使用した織物、トリコット、緯糸挿入トリコット、不織布などの布帛が挙げられる。好ましくは、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートの２成分系サイドバイサイド型のフィラメント仮撚り加工糸やポリアミド仮撚り加工糸が好ましい。
伸長方向に直交する軸方向に使用される繊維は、伸長性の有無などの機能性、フュラメントや紡績糸などの繊維形態、合成繊維や再生繊維などの繊維素材、撚糸や仮撚り加工糸などの物理加工された糸条に関して、特に限定されない。
本発明に係る高伸長性テープ芯地に用いる高伸長性テープ基布の素材や繊維糸条のそのものの繊度に関しては特に制約はないが、テープ芯地としての布帛の伸長方向の「伸長率」は１８％超４０％以下である。
The highly extensible tape base fabric used for the highly extensible tape interlining used in the present invention has extensibility in the tape length direction. As high-stretch tape base fabric, high-stretch yarn used in the stretching direction, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide 6 nylon, 66 nylon, etc. And fabrics such as a woven fabric, a tricot, a weft insertion tricot, and a non-woven fabric using a covering yarn having a sheath core structure using polyurethane fiber or the like as a core yarn. A two-component side-by-side filament false twisted yarn or polyamide false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate or polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferable.
The fibers used in the axial direction perpendicular to the stretching direction are functionalities such as the presence or absence of stretchability, fiber forms such as filaments and spun yarns, fiber materials such as synthetic fibers and recycled fibers, twisted yarns and false twisted yarns, etc. There are no particular limitations on the physically processed yarn.
Although there is no particular limitation on the fineness of the material of the high stretch tape base fabric used for the high stretch tape interlining according to the present invention and the fiber yarn itself, the “elongation rate” in the stretch direction of the fabric as the tape interlining Is more than 18% and 40% or less.
本発明に係る高伸長性テープ芯地に用いる高伸長性テープ基布は、例えば、シート状の布帛を紙管に巻き付け、その幅方向に任意の幅でカットすることで得られる。この布帛が、織物の場合、テープの伸長方向は織物の経糸方向となる。
これらの布帛は、生機を精練、リラックス、染色、ヒートセット、接着樹脂のドット加工等の加工を行ない、テープ長さ方向での伸長率が１８％超４０％以下のる高伸長テープ基布となる。
The highly extensible tape base fabric used for the highly extensible tape interlining according to the present invention can be obtained, for example, by winding a sheet-like fabric around a paper tube and cutting it in an arbitrary width in the width direction. When this fabric is a woven fabric, the extending direction of the tape is the warp direction of the woven fabric.
These fabrics are scoured, relaxed, dyed, heat set, and dot-processed adhesive resin, etc., and the elongation base in the tape length direction is 18% to 40%. Become.
本明細書中、「伸長率」とは、カトーテック社製ＦＢ−１機を用い、一辺が２０ｃｍの正方試料片に１０ｋｇの荷重をかけた状態での試料織物の伸びを測定する。すなわち、５００ｇ／ｃｍ幅の荷重下での伸長率を算出する。
高伸長性テープ基布の伸長率は、１８％超４０％以下であり、１８％以下の伸長率では、得られるテープ芯地は、平面において曲率半径３０ｃｍ以上２００ｃｍ以下の略円弧状の形状を保持することができず、一方、伸長率４０％超では、縫い糸の伸長限界やテープ基布の矯正限界となり好ましくない。
In the present specification, “elongation rate” refers to the elongation of a sample fabric in a state where a 10 kg load is applied to a square sample piece having a side of 20 cm, using an FB-1 machine manufactured by Kato Tech. That is, the elongation rate under a load of 500 g / cm width is calculated.
The elongation rate of the highly extensible tape base fabric is more than 18% and 40% or less, and when the elongation rate is 18% or less, the obtained tape interlining has a substantially arc shape with a curvature radius of 30 cm or more and 200 cm or less on a plane. On the other hand, if the elongation ratio exceeds 40%, it is not preferable because it becomes the elongation limit of the sewing thread and the correction limit of the tape base fabric.
本明細書中、「曲率半径（ｃｍ）」とは、図１に示すように、平面において略円弧状の形状を呈するテープ芯地の該円弧（曲線）の曲がり具合を表す量であり、曲率半径Ｒ（ｃｍ）は、半径Ｒ（ｃｍ）の円の円周の弧が示す曲がり具合を指標する。すなわち、曲率半径Ｒ（ｃｍ）が小さい程、曲がり具合がきつくなる。
本発明に係る高伸長性テープ芯地は、高伸長性テープ基布の片端を、伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸を用いて、二重環縫いミシンで、二重環縫いにより縫い縮めることにより、平面において曲率半径３０ｃｍ以上２００ｃｍ以下の略円弧状の形状を保持することができる。
In the present specification, the “curvature radius (cm)” is an amount representing the degree of bending of the arc (curve) of the tape interlining having a substantially arc shape in a plane as shown in FIG. The radius R (cm) indicates the degree of bending indicated by the arc of the circumference of the circle having the radius R (cm). That is, the smaller the curvature radius R (cm), the tighter the bending.
In the high stretch tape interlining according to the present invention, one end of a high stretch tape base fabric is sewn by a double chain stitch sewing machine using a stretch sewing machine thread having an elongation rate of 20 to 40% by double chain stitch. By contracting, a substantially arc shape having a curvature radius of 30 cm or more and 200 cm or less can be maintained on the plane.
所定の曲率半径を有するテープ芯地の縫い加工により得るために、例えば、ミシン上に必要とする曲率半径のラインを引きそれに沿ってテープの片端を追込みながら縫い縮めたり、ミシン本体に必要とする曲率半径のテープ幅溝を持つ生地送りガイドなどの冶具を設置したりすることができる。 In order to obtain it by sewing a tape interlining having a predetermined radius of curvature, for example, a line of the required radius of curvature is drawn on the sewing machine, and it is sewed while pushing one end of the tape along the line, or required for the sewing machine body. A jig such as a dough feed guide having a tape width groove with a radius of curvature can be installed.
本発明においては、二重環縫いミシンに使用するミシン糸は、伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性のあるものが好ましい。伸長率が２０％未満４０％超のミシン糸を使用すると、テープ芯地の円弧状の形態保持性や伸長率追従性が低下する。ミシン糸の伸長率は２５〜３５％であることが好ましい。
なお、ここでのミシン糸の伸長率は、ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９０ 合繊フィラメント嵩高加工糸試験方法 Ａ法に準じた試験方法で測定される。
In the present invention, the sewing thread used for the double chain stitch sewing machine is preferably stretchable with an elongation of 20 to 40%. When a sewing thread having an elongation rate of less than 20% and more than 40% is used, the arc-shaped form retaining property and the elongation rate followability of the tape core are lowered. The elongation rate of the sewing thread is preferably 25 to 35%.
The elongation rate of the sewing thread here is measured by a test method according to JIS L 1090 synthetic fiber bulky processed yarn test method A method.
また、本発明においては、二重環縫いミシンに使用するミシン糸は、上糸及び／又は下糸に熱接着糸を使用することが望ましい。すなわち、テープ芯地の熱可塑性樹脂を塗布した面に熱接着糸の縫目がくるようにすることで、縫製段階でのプレスやアイロンなどで糸が溶融し、略円弧状にしたテープ芯地の形状保持に優れ、また、ミシン糸によるテープ芯地の伸長性の阻害が緩和される。 In the present invention, it is desirable that the sewing thread used for the double chain stitch sewing machine is a thermal bonding thread for the upper thread and / or the lower thread. In other words, by making the seam of the thermobonding thread come to the surface of the tape interlining coated with the thermoplastic resin, the thread is melted by pressing or ironing at the sewing stage, so that the tape interlining has a substantially arc shape. The shape retention of the tape is excellent, and the inhibition of the stretchability of the tape interlining by the sewing thread is alleviated.
本発明においては、縫目種類としては、二重環縫いに限る。
差動ロックミシンなどは、ミシン機構上、縫い縮め設定は可能であるが、その調整の難易度や縫い縮め後でのテープ芯地の成型保持性が充分でなく、縫い上げ後、放置すると高伸長性テープ芯地の縫い縮めによる圧縮回復力や伸長力に耐えられなくなり、元の直線状のテープ芯地に復元しようとするため、所定の曲率の略円弧状の形状を保持することができない。
したがって、本発明においては、テープ芯地の伸長性やその回復力を二重環縫いによって固定化することにより、平面において略円弧状の形状を保持することが可能になる。また、運針は、多いほど円弧状の保持性は良くなるが、作業性や保持性を考慮すると１２〜１４針／３ｃｍであることが好ましい。
In the present invention, the stitch type is limited to double chain stitching.
Sewing shrinkage setting is possible for differential lock sewing machines due to the sewing machine mechanism, but the degree of difficulty of adjustment and the tape core molding retention after sewing shrinkage are not sufficient, and if the sewing machine is left after sewing, it will be highly stretched. Since it cannot withstand the compression recovery force and extension force due to the shrinkage of the elastic tape interlining, and tries to restore the original linear tape interlining, it is impossible to maintain a substantially arc shape with a predetermined curvature.
Therefore, in this invention, it becomes possible to hold | maintain a substantially circular arc shape in a plane by fixing the extensibility of a tape interlining, and its recovery force by double ring stitching. Further, the greater the number of hands, the better the arc-shaped retainability, but in consideration of workability and retainability, it is preferably 12 to 14 needles / 3 cm.
本発明に係るテープ芯地をズボン・スカートに使用すれば、表地パターンと形状が合い、また、略円弧状の形状が保持されているため、縫製における作業効率が顕著に改善される。さらに、腰回りでの放射伸長方向での伸縮性のある高伸長性テープ芯地が表地に接着されているので、多種多様なストレッチ表地素材に適用することができる。 When the tape interlining according to the present invention is used for the trousers and skirt, the outer pattern matches the shape and the substantially arc-shaped shape is maintained, so that the work efficiency in sewing is remarkably improved. Furthermore, since the highly stretchable tape interlining having elasticity in the radial extension direction around the waist is bonded to the outer surface, it can be applied to a wide variety of stretch outer materials.
さらに、本発明に係るテープ芯地の平面における略円弧状の形状の曲率半径は、広い範囲の腰周りのパターンを網羅しているので、本発明に係るテープ芯地は、表地のサイズやデザイン性に関してなどの適応性が高い。前記したように、本発明に係るテープ芯地は、ズボン・スカートなどの腰部の表地への適用に限定されるものではなく、襟や帽子などに幅広く適用されうる。
また、図２に示すように、本発明に係るテープ芯地は、平面において略円弧状の形状を保持している。したがって、これを用いれば、テープ芯地原反から型抜きしたものを用いる必要がないため、原反のロスを生じない。
Furthermore, since the radius of curvature of the substantially arc shape in the plane of the tape interlining according to the present invention covers a wide range of patterns around the waist, the tape interlining according to the present invention has the size and design of the outer surface. High adaptability in terms of sex. As described above, the tape interlining according to the present invention is not limited to application to the outer surface of the waist such as trousers and skirts, but can be widely applied to collars, hats, and the like.
Moreover, as shown in FIG. 2, the tape interlining according to the present invention has a substantially arc-like shape on a plane. Therefore, if this is used, since it is not necessary to use what was cut out from the tape core raw material, loss of the raw material does not occur.
本願発明のテープ芯地に用いるテープ基布に接着剤である熱可塑性樹脂を塗布する方法は、パウダードット方式、ダブルドット方式、シンター方式、スプレー方式等が用いられ、どの方法を用いても構わない。
テープ芯地の接着剤としては、ポリアミド、ポリエステル、ポリエチレン、ＥＶＡ系、ＰＶＡ系等いずれでもよい。
本願発明のテープ芯地は、フラットプレス型、ローラープレス型の芯地プレス機等により、表地に接着される。
以下、本発明を実施例、比較例により、具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらに限定されるものではない。
As a method of applying the thermoplastic resin as an adhesive to the tape base fabric used in the tape interlining of the present invention, a powder dot method, a double dot method, a sinter method, a spray method, or the like is used, and any method may be used. Absent.
The adhesive for the tape interlining may be any of polyamide, polyester, polyethylene, EVA, PVA, and the like.
The tape interlining of the present invention is bonded to the outer surface by a flat press type, roller press type interlining press or the like.
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example demonstrate this invention concretely, this invention is not limited to these.
実施例１
１６７ｄｔｅｘ／７２ｆのサイドバイサイド型のポリトリメチレンテレフタレートのＳ撚り捲縮加工糸とＺ撚り捲縮加工糸を双糸にし、総繊度３３４ｄｔｅｘを経糸とし、繊維長３８ｍｍアクリル紡績糸４８メートル番手糸を緯糸として、織物経密度３１本／インチ、織物緯密度３１本／インチ、織物幅１００ｃｍの平組織織物を作成した。
この織物を、リラックス、精練、染色、ヒートセットの各加工を行い、セット工程での経方向の生地オーバーフィード率を変更させ、経糸伸長率１８％、２５％、３８％の３種類の布帛を得た。
これらの布帛に、低融点ポリアミド樹脂（エムスケミー・ジャパン製 グリテックスＤ１５００Ａ 樹脂融点９０℃）を用いてシングルドットコーティング法で、３０ポイント／インチ間のドットコーティング加工を施した。
更に、この芯地を製品検査検反機上で、外径４０ｍｍφの紙管に織物長２５ｍ巻き付けた。
Example 1
167dtex / 72f side-by-side polytrimethylene terephthalate S-twisted crimped yarn and Z-twisted crimped yarn are twin yarns, the total fineness is 334dtex, warp yarn is 38mm acrylic spun yarn and 48m yarn A plain-textured fabric having a fabric warp density of 31 / inch, a fabric weft density of 31 / inch, and a fabric width of 100 cm was prepared.
This fabric is processed by relaxation, scouring, dyeing, and heat setting, and the fabric overfeed rate in the warping direction in the setting process is changed to produce three types of fabrics with warp elongation rates of 18%, 25%, and 38%. Obtained.
These fabrics were subjected to a dot coating process of 30 points / inch by a single dot coating method using a low-melting-point polyamide resin (Glitex D1500A resin melting point 90 ° C., manufactured by Ems Chemie Japan).
Further, this interlining was wound on a paper tube having an outer diameter of 40 mmφ on a product inspection and inspection machine by a fabric length of 25 m.
次に、巻き付けた織物を幅方向３０ｍｍ間隔に切断して得られたテープ芯地を解き、長さ６０ｃｍに切断して、幅３０ｍｍ、長さ６０ｃｍのテープ芯地のパーツを採取した。
なお、それぞれテープ芯地のパーツの伸度を測定した結果、１８％、２５％、３８％の伸長率であった。
そのパーツ片端を上糸下糸共に、伸度３０％のミシン糸を使い、二重環縫いミシンにて縫い、目標とする曲率半径（Ｒ）を３０ｃｍ、１００ｃｍ、２００ｃｍの本願発明のテープ芯地を得た。
形態保持性の評価として、上記、作成したテープ芯地を恒温恒湿（温度２０℃、相対湿度６５％）環境下、平置きの状態で、２４時間放置後、その曲率半径の変化量が、±２ｃｍ以内を合格として評価した。結果を以下の表１に示す。
Next, the tape interlining obtained by cutting the wound woven fabric at intervals of 30 mm in the width direction was unwound, cut to a length of 60 cm, and parts of a tape interlining having a width of 30 mm and a length of 60 cm were collected.
In addition, as a result of measuring the elongation of each part of the tape interlining, the elongation was 18%, 25%, and 38%.
The tape core of the present invention having a curvature radius (R) of 30 cm, 100 cm, or 200 cm as a target, using a sewing machine thread with 30% elongation at the one end of the part, and a sewing machine with an elongation of 30%. Got.
As an evaluation of form retention, the amount of change in the radius of curvature after the above-described tape interlining was left standing for 24 hours in a constant temperature and humidity (temperature 20 ° C., relative humidity 65%) environment, Evaluation was made within ± 2 cm as a pass. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
なお、実施例１に使用した条件は次の通りであった。
＜使用ミシン＞
ペガサス社製 二重環縫いミシン ＥＸ２２００
使用針：ＤＣ×２７、＃１４
回転数：３０００ｒｐｍ
運針：１２針／３ｃｍ
＜使用ミシン糸＞
（株）フジックス・キングレジロンＦ (ナイロン１００％)、＃５０
The conditions used in Example 1 were as follows.
<Use sewing machine>
Double chain stitch sewing machine EX2200 made by Pegasus
Needle used: DC × 27, # 14
Rotation speed: 3000rpm
Hand movement: 12 needles / 3cm
<Used sewing thread>
Fujix King Regiron F (100% nylon), # 50
比較例１
実施例１において、セット工程での経方向の生地オーバーフィード率を変更し、経糸伸長率１６％、４３％の２種類の布帛を得た。その後、実施例１と同様のシングルドットコーティング、テープ芯地のパーツを作成し、得られたテープ芯地のパーツ片端を差動ロックミシンにて、縫い縮め量を調整し、目標とする曲率半径（Ｒ）を３０ｃｍ、１００ｃｍ、２００ｃｍのテープ芯地を得た。
実施例１と同様に、形態保持性を評価したが、目標とする曲率半径を保持することはできなかった（図３参照）。
テープ芯地接着作業工程においては、縫目部分の接着不足や必要とされる腰部回りの表地湾曲との接着作業で湾曲修正を行いながら、作業する必要があり、作業性を著しく低下させた。結果を以下の表１に示す。
Comparative Example 1
In Example 1, the fabric overfeed rate in the warp direction in the setting step was changed to obtain two types of fabrics having a warp elongation rate of 16% and 43%. After that, the same single dot coating and tape interlining parts as in Example 1 were prepared, and the one end of the obtained tape interlining part was adjusted with a differential lock sewing machine to adjust the amount of shrinkage, and the target curvature radius (R) Tape interlinings of 30 cm, 100 cm, and 200 cm were obtained.
Similar to Example 1, shape retention was evaluated, but the target radius of curvature could not be maintained (see FIG. 3).
In the tape interlining work process, it is necessary to work while correcting the curvature by bonding work with the insufficient adhesion of the seam portion and the necessary surface curvature around the waist, and the workability is significantly reduced. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
比較例２
実施例１において、得られた布帛から得られたテープ芯地のパーツ片端を、伸長率３０％の伸縮性ミシン糸を使い、差動ロックミシンにて、縫い縮め量を調整し、目標とする曲率半径（Ｒ）を３０ｃｍ、１００ｃｍ、２００ｃｍのテープ芯地を得た。
実施例１と同様に形態保持性を評価したが、目標とする曲率半径を保持することはできなかった。
テープ芯地接着作業工程においては、縫目部分の接着不足や必要とされる腰部回りの表地湾曲との接着作業で湾曲修正を行いながら、作業する必要があり、作業性を著しく低下させた。
Comparative Example 2
In Example 1, a part of one end of the tape interlining obtained from the obtained fabric is adjusted by using an elastic sewing thread having an elongation rate of 30% and adjusting the amount of sewing shrinkage with a differential lock sewing machine. Tape interlinings having a radius of curvature (R) of 30 cm, 100 cm, and 200 cm were obtained.
The shape retention was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1, but the target radius of curvature could not be maintained.
In the tape interlining work process, it is necessary to work while correcting the curvature by bonding work with the insufficient adhesion of the seam portion and the necessary surface curvature around the waist, and the workability is significantly reduced.
なお、比較例１及び２に使用した条件は次の通りであった。
＜使用ミシン＞
ヤマトミシン社製 差動ロックミシン ＡＺ８０００Ｇ
使用針：ＴＶ×７、＃１６
回転数：３０００ ｒｐｍ
運針：１２針／３ｃｍ
＜使用ミシン糸＞
（株）フジックス・キングレジロンＦ (ナイロン１００％) ＃５０
The conditions used in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were as follows.
<Use sewing machine>
Differential lock sewing machine AZ8000G made by Yamato Sewing Machine Co., Ltd.
Needle used: TV × 7, # 16
Rotation speed: 3000 rpm
Hand movement: 12 needles / 3cm
<Used sewing thread>
Fujix King Regiron F (100% nylon) # 50
Claims (4)
表面に接着樹脂を有し、かつ、テープ長さ方向の伸長率が１８％超４０％以下である高伸長性テープ状基布の片端を、伸長率２０〜４０％の伸縮性ミシン糸を用いて、二重環縫いミシンで、二重環縫いにより縫い縮める、
を含む、平面において曲率半径３０ｃｍ以上２００ｃｍ以下の略円弧状の形状を保持しているテープ芯地の製造方法。 The following steps:
Using one end of a highly stretchable tape-like base fabric having an adhesive resin on the surface and an elongation rate in the tape length direction of more than 18% and not more than 40%, an elastic sewing thread having an elongation rate of 20-40% is used. With a double chain stitch machine,
And a method for producing a tape interlining having a substantially arc shape with a radius of curvature of 30 cm or more and 200 cm or less on a plane.
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