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JP5440919B2 - Undershirt sewing method - Google Patents
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JP5440919B2 - Undershirt sewing method - Google Patents

Undershirt sewing method Download PDF

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JP5440919B2
JP5440919B2 JP2009206298A JP2009206298A JP5440919B2 JP 5440919 B2 JP5440919 B2 JP 5440919B2 JP 2009206298 A JP2009206298 A JP 2009206298A JP 2009206298 A JP2009206298 A JP 2009206298A JP 5440919 B2 JP5440919 B2 JP 5440919B2
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sewing
sleeve
shoulder
line
undershirt
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JP2011058106A (en
JP2011058106A5 (en
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義一 竹内
宗由 奥村
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Fujibo Holdings Inc
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Fujibo Holdings Inc
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Description

本発明は、アンダーシャツの縫製方法、特に前後身頃の肩線における縫製と袖刳の縫製との工程に特徴を有する縫製方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a sewing method for an undershirt, and more particularly to a sewing method characterized by the processes of sewing on shoulder lines of front and rear bodies and sewing of sleeve sleeves.

肌着等の被服にあって、身頃に袖を取り付ける手段として、身頃に対し垂直に取り付けるセットインスリーブという袖型が一般的である(特許文献1)。また、肩部にゆとりを持たせた自由度を得られスポーツ用衣料には衿刳から脇下にかけての斜めの切り替え線を入れ、肩と続きになった袖部分を身頃につけたラグランスリーブという袖型が用いられることが多い(特許文献2)。また、ラグランスリーブの変形の肩の縫目から前がセットインスリーブ、後方がラグランスリーブとなっている袖型もあり、スプリットラグランスリーブ又はワンサイドラグランスリーブとも云われ(特許文献3)、これらの袖型は縫製のパーツが多く、従って工程も多いため作業が煩雑となる。   A sleeve type called a set-in sleeve that is attached perpendicularly to the body is generally used as a means for attaching a sleeve to the body of an undergarment or the like (Patent Document 1). Raglan sleeves with a freedom of freedom of shoulders and a slanting line from the heel to the armpits, and a raglan sleeve with the shoulder and the sleeve part attached to the body. A mold is often used (Patent Document 2). There is also a sleeve type in which the front of the shoulder of the deformation of the raglan sleeve is a set-in sleeve and the rear is a raglan sleeve, which is also called a split raglan sleeve or a one-side raglan sleeve (Patent Document 3). The sleeve type has many sewing parts, and therefore has many processes, so the work becomes complicated.

特開2000−129513号公報JP 2000-129513 A 特開2000−70379号公報JP 2000-70379 A 実用新案登録第3101096号公報Utility Model Registration No. 3101096

本発明は、上記の点に鑑みて、前身頃の袖付けラインはセットインスリーブの袖付けラインとし、後身頃の袖付けラインはラグランスリーブの袖付けラインとし、そのラインの縫製時に袖付けラインを連続した一本の縫合線として縫い上げることによって、身頃に対する袖付けの作業を容易に、かつ、工程を少なくして行うことが出来るようにすることを目的としている。   In the present invention, in view of the above points, the sleeve line of the front body is a set-in-sleeve sleeve line, and the sleeve line of the back body is the raglan sleeve sleeve line. It is an object of the present invention to make it possible to easily sleeve the body part and reduce the number of processes by sewing up as a single continuous suture line.

請求項1記載の発明は、前身頃と後身頃とを構成する筒状体生地よりなる身頃本体部分の袖刳部と、筒状体生地よりなる左右の袖部分とを、袖刳部において縫着する際に、袖刳部の縫合線を、身頃本体の前後身頃の肩部を縫合してなる肩線の肩先の端部から前身頃方向に縫い始め腋下部分を経て環状に前身頃と後身頃の袖刳部を縫製後、袖付けが終了する直前に縫い方向を肩線の延長方向と一致させ、そのまま前後身頃の肩線部分の直線の縫合に進み、衿刳部に達したときに袖付け及び前後身頃の肩部の縫合を終了することにした。
請求項2記載の発明は、請求項1記載の発明において、身頃本体の前後身頃の肩部を縫合してなる肩線の縫い目位置を、着用者の肩部において後身頃側に位置させた。
According to the first aspect of the present invention, the sleeve body part of the body part made of the cylindrical body fabric constituting the front body and the back body part and the left and right sleeve parts made of the cylindrical body cloth are sewn in the sleeve part. when wearing, the suture sleeve Ku portion, from the end of the shoulder of the shoulder lines formed by sewing the shoulder of the front and back bodies of the basic trunk portion sewing start the front body direction, the ring-shaped through the underarm portions After sewing the sleeves on the front and back bodies, just before the end of sleeve attachment, make the sewing direction coincide with the direction of the shoulder line extension, and proceed to straight stitching on the shoulder line part of the front and back body, When it is reached, it is decided to end the sleeves and the sewing of the shoulders of the front and rear bodies.
The invention according to claim 2 is the invention according to claim 1, wherein the seam position of the shoulder line formed by stitching the shoulder portions of the front and back bodies of the body body is positioned on the back body side in the shoulder portion of the wearer .

本発明の縫製方法にあっては、前身頃と後身頃とを構成する筒状体生地よりなる身頃本体部分の袖刳部と、筒状体生地よりなる左右の袖部分の袖山部とを、袖刳部において縫着する際に、袖刳部の縫合線を、身頃本体の肩線の肩先の端部から前身頃方向に縫い始め腋下部分を経て環状に前身頃と後身頃の袖刳部を縫製後、袖付けが終了する直前に縫い方向を肩線の延長方向と一致させ、そのまま前後身頃の肩線部分の直線の縫合に進み、衿刳部に達したときに袖付け及び前後身頃の肩部の縫合を終了することとしたため、前身頃の袖付けラインはセットインラインとなり後身頃の袖付けラインはラグランラインとなり、ラインの軌跡は前身頃のセットインラインから後身頃のラグランラインを脇下部分を通り袖刳山を後身頃の肩位置で連続させた環状の「の」の字状とる一筆書の如き連続した縫製により袖付けが可能となり、複数工程の縫製が行われた作業が1回の連続した一筆書による縫製で行うことが可能となり作業能率を極めて高めることが出来る。
また、上記の縫製により身頃本体の前後身頃の肩部を縫合してなる肩の縫い目線を、着用者の肩部において後身頃側にずらすことが可能で肌への縫目の当たりを軽減して着心地を改善することが出来る。
In the sewing method of the present invention, the sleeve collar portion of the body body portion made of the cylindrical body fabric constituting the front body and the back body, and the sleeve crest portions of the left and right sleeve portions made of the cylindrical body fabric, when sewing the sleeves click section, the suture sleeve Ku portion, the trunk portion of the shoulder of the shoulder line from the end front body direction through the underarm portions sewing start the ring-shaped front body and the back body After sewing the sleeve collar, just before the end of sleeve attachment, make the sewing direction coincide with the extension direction of the shoulder line, proceed to straight stitching of the shoulder line part of the front and back body, and attach the sleeve when reaching the buttocks Because the sewing of the shoulders of the front and rear bodies is finished, the sleeve line on the front body is set inline, the sleeve line on the back body is raglan line, and the line trajectory is from the set inline on the front body to the raglan on the back body. Continue the line through the armpit and continue on the shoulder position of the back body. The sleeves can be sewn by continuous sewing like a one-stroke writing with a ring-shaped "no" shape, and work that has been sewn in multiple steps can be done by one continuous one-stroke writing. The efficiency can be greatly increased.
In addition, the seam line of the shoulder formed by sewing the front and back body shoulders of the body body by the above sewing can be shifted to the back body side at the wearer's shoulder , reducing the contact of the seam to the skin. You can improve your comfort.

本発明方法により作られたアンダーシャツの正面図。The front view of the undershirt made by the method of this invention. 本発明方法により作られたアンダーシャツの背面図。The rear view of the undershirt made by the method of this invention. 本発明方法により作られたアンダーシャツの身頃本体生地の正面図。The front view of the body material of the body of the undershirt made by the method of the present invention. 本発明方法により作られたアンダーシャツの身頃本体生地の背面図。The rear view of the body material of the body of the undershirt made by the method of the present invention. 左袖展開図。Left sleeve development. 右袖展開図。A right sleeve development view.

本発明をアンダーシャツ1の縫製につき図面と共に次に説明する。図1、図2に示す如く、アンダーシャツ1は、前身頃2,後身頃3よりなる身頃本体4と左右の袖部5(左袖5a,右袖5b)とよりなる。身頃本体4は上部中央に衿刳6を、上部左右に袖刳7,7を設けている。左右の袖5a,5bは、その展開図〔図5〕,〔図6〕に示す如き形状で袖下線8,8が縫合され袖口9,袖刳山10が開口した筒状体をなしている。 The present invention will now be described with reference to the drawings for sewing the undershirt 1. As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the undershirt 1 includes a body body 4 composed of a front body 2 and a back body 3 , and left and right sleeve portions 5 (left sleeve 5 a and right sleeve 5 b) . The body body 4 is provided with a collar 6 at the upper center and sleeve collars 7 and 7 at the upper left and right. Left and right sleeves 5a, 5b, the developed view [5], in such a shape shown in [6], cuffs 9 sleeves underlined 8,8 are sewn, a tubular shape body sleeves Kuyama 10 is open Yes.

ここで前後身頃2,3を構成する身頃本体4と袖部5とを縫着する。身頃本体4の右側に右袖5bを縫着する例について説明する。前身頃2の右側の肩部先端生地14の側端に設けられている袖刳7と、取り付けるべき右袖5bの袖刳山10とを縫合するその縫合は、前身頃2の右側の肩部先端生地14の側部から袖刳7に従って環状に縫合するが、環状の袖付けが終了する直前に縫い方向を環状から直線に次第に変更し、袖刳の縫製を終え、そのまま前後身頃の肩部分の縫製をすることで衿刳6に達したときに右袖付けの縫合を終わる。
そして衿刳6にはテープ15を縫着するなど適宜の処理をする。
Here, the body body 4 and the sleeve portion 5 constituting the front and rear bodies 2 and 3 are sewn. An example in which the right sleeve 5b is sewn on the right side of the body body 4 will be described. The sleeve 7 provided at the side edge of the right shoulder tip fabric 14 of the front body 2 and the sleeve 10 of the right sleeve 5b to be attached are stitched together . The stitching is carried out in an annular fashion from the side of the right side shoulder tip fabric 14 of the front body 2 in accordance with the sleeve 7, but the sewing direction is gradually changed from an annular shape to a straight line immediately before the end of the annular sleeve attachment. After finishing the sewing of the heel and sewing the shoulder portions of the front and rear bodies as they are, when the heel 6 is reached, the sewing of the right sleeve is finished.
Then, appropriate processing such as sewing the tape 15 on the heel 6 is performed.

次に反対側の左袖部分5aの取り付けが行われるが、右袖部分5bと対象に構成されるが、その縫製過程は全く同一である。
即ち、前身頃2の左側肩部先端生地14の側端に設けられている袖刳7と取り付けるべき左袖部分5aの袖刳山10とを縫合する。そして、前身頃の肩先部分から袖刳部分を始め、袖刳を一周してから肩線の直線に入り衿刳部まで縫合する。
Next, the left sleeve portion 5a on the opposite side is attached, but the right sleeve portion 5b and the object are constructed, but the sewing process is exactly the same.
That is, the sleeve 7 provided at the side end of the left shoulder tip fabric 14 of the front body 2 and the sleeve 10 of the left sleeve portion 5a to be attached are stitched together. Then, starting from the shoulder tip portion of the front body, starting from the sleeve collar, goes around the sleeve collar, enters the straight line of the shoulder line, and sutures to the buttocks.

上記の如く、肩線から袖刳の縫製にかけての縫目の軌跡がいわば「の」の字の一筆書きの如き構成となっているためにラグランスリーブとセットインスリーブとが合体した如き構成の袖付が、一工程の縫目線で構成されている。   As mentioned above, since the locus of the seam from the shoulder line to the sewing of the sleeve collar is like a one-stroke drawing of the character of "no", the sleeve with the structure that the raglan sleeve and the set-in sleeve are combined However, it is comprised by the stitch line of one process.

上記の如く、本発明方法にあっては袖刳の縫製工程の際に、肩継ぎ,袖付け等の処置を行うため、以下の操作を行わなければならなかった。
即ち、肩継ぎでは、
(1)仕掛品をミシン押さえ下にズレに注意しながら揃えてSET
(2)ミシンを踏んで縫製
(3)次工程の作業の為、向きを同一方向に揃えて置く
袖付けでは
(4)肩継ぎまで出来た仕掛かりを持ってくる
(5)身頃と袖地縫い線を所定の位置に合わせながらミシンの押さえ下にSET
(6)ミシンを踏んで縫製
(7)次工程の作業の為、向きを同一方向に揃えて置く
であり、例えば縫製に関しては実際にミシンが作動している時間は(2)(6)のみであり、その他は(2)(6)動作のための行動であり,本発明の如く袖付け工程をその隣接工程と共に一貫して行えば、隣接工程中省略可能な作業、上記の例では(3)(4)(5)の省略が見込まれ作業効率上も極めて有効である。
As described above, according to the method of the present invention, the following operations have to be performed in order to perform treatments such as shoulder joining and sleeve attachment during the sewing process of the sleeve sleeve 7 .
That is, at the shoulder joint,
(1) Set work-in-progress while keeping the sewing machine under pressure and paying attention to the deviation.
(2) Sewing on the sewing machine (3) For the next process, with sleeves that are aligned in the same direction (4) Bring the device to the shoulder joint (5) Body and sleeve Set the sewing line under the sewing machine while adjusting the sewing line to the specified position.
(6) Sewing on the sewing machine (7) For work in the next process, the direction is aligned in the same direction. For example, for sewing, the actual sewing machine operation time is only (2) (6) Others are actions for the operations (2) and (6). If the cuffing process is performed consistently with the adjacent process as in the present invention, the work that can be omitted during the adjacent process, in the above example ( 3) Omission of (4) and (5) is expected, which is extremely effective in terms of work efficiency.

1 アンダーシャツ
2 前身頃
3 後身頃
4 身頃本体
袖部
5a 左袖
5b 右袖
6 衿刳
7 袖刳
8 袖下線
9 袖口
10 袖刳山
11 肩線
12 肩先の端部
13 腋下部分
14 肩部先端生地
15 テープ
1 Undershirt
2 Front body
3 Back body
4 Body body
5 sleeves
5a left sleeve 5b right sleeve 6 collar click 7 sleeve click 8 sleeves underlined 9 cuff 10 sleeve Kuyama
11 Shoulder line 12 Shoulder end 13 Underarm 14 Shoulder tip fabric 15 Tape

Claims (2)

前身頃と後身頃とを構成する筒状体生地よりなる身頃本体部分の袖刳部と、筒状体生地よりなる左右の袖部分とを、袖刳部において縫着する際に、袖刳部の縫合線を、身頃本体の前後身頃の肩部を縫合してなる肩線の肩先の端部から前身頃方向に縫い始め腋下部分を経て環状に前身頃と後身頃の袖刳部を縫製後、袖付けが終了する直前に縫い方向を肩線の延長方向と一致させ、そのまま前後身頃の肩線部分の直線の縫合に進み、衿刳部に達したときに袖付け及び前後身頃の肩部の縫合を終了することを特徴とするアンダーシャツの縫製方法。 When sewing the sleeve collar part of the body part made of the cylindrical body fabric constituting the front body and the back body and the left and right sleeve parts made of the cylindrical body fabric at the sleeve collar part, of the suture, from the end of the shoulder of the shoulder lines formed by sewing the shoulder of the front and back bodies of the basic trunk portion sewing start the front body direction, click sleeves front body and the back body to the ring-shaped through the underarm portions After sewing the part, just before the end of the sleeve attachment, make the sewing direction coincide with the direction of the shoulder line extension, proceed to straight stitching of the shoulder line part of the front and rear body, and when reaching the buttocks A method for sewing an undershirt, characterized by ending sewing of a shoulder portion of a body. 身頃本体の前後身頃の肩部を縫合してなる肩線の縫い目位置を、着用者の肩部において後身頃側に位置させたことを特徴とする請求項1に記載のアンダーシャツの縫製方法。 The undershirt sewing method according to claim 1, wherein a seam position of a shoulder line formed by stitching the shoulder portions of the front and back bodies of the body body is located on the back body side of the wearer's shoulder .
JP2009206298A 2009-09-07 2009-09-07 Undershirt sewing method Active JP5440919B2 (en)

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JP2011058106A5 JP2011058106A5 (en) 2012-04-05
JP5440919B2 true JP5440919B2 (en) 2014-03-12

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WO2014002224A1 (en) * 2012-06-28 2014-01-03 株式会社アシックス Upper garment
JP5658716B2 (en) * 2012-07-31 2015-01-28 株式会社タツノクリエイツ Upper garment
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