JP5480225B2 - Knit dress shirt - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a dress shirt made of knitted fabric (hereinafter referred to as “knitted dress shirt”).

  Since dress shirts require moderate tension and waist for the fabric, they are usually manufactured using a woven fabric with a dense texture and a waist. In recent years, in addition to the texture of a dress shirt, it has anti-wrinkle properties, shrink-proof properties, etc., and has few wrinkles due to washing and drying, and can be worn without ironing (“wash and wear properties” (W & W property) ”) is also strongly demanded.

  By the way, since it has many advantages such as excellent hygroscopicity and water absorption, good touch, hardly generating static electricity, high thermal conductivity, natural origin, etc., cellulosic fibers Fabrics containing are widely used for clothing applications. However, fabrics containing cellulosic fibers have the disadvantages that wrinkles are likely to occur when worn, wrinkles are likely to remain even after washing, and shrink. For this reason, attempts have been made to impart form stability such as wrinkle resistance and shrinkage resistance to the fabric by chemically crosslinking a cellulose reactive fiber with a fiber-reactive resin such as glyoxal resin and formaldehyde (Non-Patent Documents). 1).

  When a dress shirt is manufactured from a woven fabric containing crosslinked cellulosic fibers as described above, in addition to the problem inherent to the woven fabric that the air permeability is poor due to the high density of the woven tissue, it can be chemically crosslinked with the fiber-reactive resin. The inherent hygroscopicity and water absorption of cellulose tend to decrease. Therefore, there is a problem that it is muggy and inferior in the comfort of summer. In addition, since the material of the fabric is poor in elasticity, there is a problem that it is inferior in comfort even in a cramped point that is difficult to follow the movement of the body.

  On the other hand, it has been proposed to manufacture a business shirt with a material of a knitted fabric that is flexible and has good air permeability (Patent Document 1). However, a dress shirt manufactured with such a knitted fabric and having an excellent W & W property has not yet been realized.

JP 2001-303301 A

Cross-linking agent handbook, first edition, Shinzo Yamashita, Tosuke Kaneko, published by Taiseisha Co., Ltd., issued October 20, 1981

  An object of the present invention is to provide a knit dress shirt having both excellent W & W properties while maintaining the advantages of a knitted fabric that is flexible and has good air permeability.

According to the present invention, a knit dress shirt is provided. The knit dress shirt comprises a knitted fabric knitted with cellulose fibers containing 50% by mass or more of cellulose fibers and an English cotton count of 20 to 100. The basis weight of the knitted fabric is 110 to 230 g / m ^2. The course density is 35 to 65 / 2.54 cm, the wale density is 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm, and the course direction of the knitted fabric is the front body part, the back body part, the sleeve part, and the pocket part. The upper placket and the lower placket are formed in the vertical direction.
In a preferred embodiment, the knitting structure of the knitted fabric is a Kanoko knitting or a smooth knitting.
In a preferred embodiment, the cellulosic fiber is crosslinked with a crosslinking agent.
In preferable embodiment, the said cellulosic fiber contains 100 mass% of cotton.
In a preferred embodiment, the side seam portion and arm hole portion of the knit dress shirt do not include an interlining.
In a preferred embodiment, the lower placket of the knit dress shirt does not include an interlining.
In a preferred embodiment, an adhesive core having a basis weight of 20 to 100 g / m ² is fixed to a non-sewn portion on the back side of the knitted fabric forming the pocket portion.
According to another aspect of the present invention, a method for manufacturing a knit dress shirt may be provided. The said manufacturing method is knitted with the cellulosic fiber which contains a cellulose fiber 50 mass% or more, and an English cotton count is 20-100 count, and a fabric weight is 110-230 g / m < ² >, A course density is 35-65. /2.54 cm, the step of applying a treatment for crosslinking the cellulosic fibers to a knitted fabric having a wale density of 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm, and the course direction of the knitted fabric after the treatment, It includes a step of sewing the front body part, the back body part, the sleeve part, the pocket part, the upper front part, and the lower front part so as to be in the longitudinal direction.

  In the present invention, a specific knitted fabric is selected, and the course direction of the knitted fabric is the longitudinal direction of the front body portion, the back body portion, the sleeve portion, the pocket portion, the upper placket portion, and the lower placket portion of the shirt. Use to be. As a result, a knit dress shirt having flexibility, good air permeability, and excellent W & W properties can be provided. Furthermore, effects such as the shirt becoming difficult to protrude from the trousers and the same silhouette as the shirt manufactured from the fabric can be obtained.

1 is a schematic front view of a knit dress shirt according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention. 1 is a schematic rear view of a knit dress shirt according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention. It is a figure explaining a side seam part and an armhole part. It is a schematic sectional drawing explaining an example of the stitching | suture state of a side seam part. It is a schematic sectional drawing explaining an example of the stitching | suture state of an armhole part. It is a schematic sectional drawing explaining another example of the stitching | suture state of an armhole part. It is a schematic sectional drawing explaining an example of the stitching | suture state of a lower placket part. It is a schematic sectional drawing explaining another example of the stitching | suture state of a lower placket part. It is a schematic sectional drawing explaining an example of the stitching | suture state of a pocket part.

A schematic front view and schematic back view of a knit dress shirt according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, respectively. The knitted dress shirt 100 of the present invention comprises a knitted fabric knitted with cellulose fibers containing 50% by mass or more of cellulose fibers and 20 to 100 English cotton counts. The basis weight of the knitted fabric is 110 to 230 g / m ² , and the knitting density is such that the course density is 35 to 65 / 2.54 cm and the wale density is 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm. In the knit dress shirt 100 of the present invention, the course direction of the knitted fabric is the longitudinal direction of the front body part 10, the back body part 20, the sleeve part 30, the pocket part 40, the upper front part 50, and the lower front part 51. (In FIGS. 1 and 2, the direction in which the stripes of the shirt extend corresponds to the course direction of the knitted fabric). As for the shoulder yoke portion 60, the collar portion 70, and the cuff portion 80, the course direction of the knitted fabric may be the longitudinal direction or the lateral direction (in FIGS. 1 and 2, the lateral direction). Here, “the longitudinal direction of the front body portion 10, the back body portion 20, the pocket portion 40, the upper placket portion 50, and the lower placket portion 51” means the vertical direction of the shirt. It includes a direction that forms an angle with the direction of −20 ° to 20 °, preferably −5 ° to 5 °. The “longitudinal direction of the sleeve 30” means a direction orthogonal to the sleeve width line. In the present invention, the direction perpendicular to the orthogonal direction is −20 ° to 20 °, preferably −5 ° to 5 °. It shall include directions that form angles. The “lateral direction” of each part means a direction orthogonal to the vertical direction of each part, and includes a direction that forms an angle of −20 ° to 20 °, preferably −5 ° to 5 ° with the orthogonal direction. Shall be. In this specification, “dress shirt” includes a shirt and a cutter shirt, and may be a long sleeve or a short sleeve. The “upper placket” refers to a portion that becomes the front side in a state where a shirt is worn and a button is attached, and the “lower placket” refers to a portion that becomes the back side (skin side).

  As described above, an excellent W & W property can be obtained by selecting a specific knitted fabric and using the knitted fabric so that the course direction of the knitted fabric is the vertical direction of the predetermined portion. The reason why such an effect is achieved is not clear, but is estimated as follows, for example. That is, in a knitted dress shirt that is hung and dried, a force that contracts in the course direction of the knitted fabric is generated due to relaxation due to washing, and a force that extends in the vertical direction of the shirt is also generated due to the weight of the remaining moisture. Further, the knitted fabric tends to spread in the wale direction in accordance with the shrinkage in the course direction. Therefore, it is estimated that the shirt is in a state where it is stretched vertically and horizontally, and the effect of stretching the washing wrinkles is produced. Furthermore, by using the knitted fabric in such a direction, the fit of the shirt on the trousers is improved, so that the protrusion from the trousers can be suppressed. In addition, since the lateral elongation of the shirt is reduced, the fit is reduced. Thereby, the same silhouette as the shirt manufactured with the woven fabric can be obtained, and it can be worn even for formal use.

Weight per unit area of the knitted fabric is a 110~230g / ^{m 2.} When the weight per unit area is less than 110 g / m ² , the sense of see-through at the time of wearing increases, the dimensional change due to washing increases, the bursting strength or tearing strength decreases, and problems such as tearing of the knitted fabric at the time of wearing may occur. is there. On the other hand, if the basis weight exceeds 230 g / m ² , the knitted fabric becomes too hard or heavier, so it is difficult to follow the movement of the body when worn, and further, the feeling of weight and stuffiness is increased, causing discomfort May become larger. The lower limit of the basis weight is preferably 120 g / m ² or more, more preferably 130 g / m ² or more, further preferably 140 g / m ² or more, still more preferably 150 g / m ² or more, and particularly preferably 156 g / m ² or more. The upper limit is preferably 225 g / m ² or less. If the weight per unit area is within such a range, the water absorption, softness, dimensional stability, stretchability, strength, thickness and weight of the knitted fabric as a knit dress shirt, comfort (for example, stuffiness, A knitted fabric excellent in air permeability), difficulty of see-through, and a silhouette feeling can be obtained, and the effect of improving the W & W property of the present invention can be suitably exhibited.

  As for the knitting density of the knitted fabric, the course density is 35 to 65 / 2.54 cm, and the wale density is 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm. When the knitting density is lower than the above range, there may be a problem that the feeling of sheerness at the time of wearing becomes large, the dimensional change by washing becomes large, the bursting strength or tearing strength becomes low and the knitted fabric is torn at the time of wearing. On the other hand, if the knitting density is higher than the above range, the knitted fabric becomes too hard or heavier, so it is difficult to follow the movement of the body at the time of wearing, and further, the feeling of weight and stuffiness is increased, causing discomfort. May be larger. From the viewpoint of water absorbency, softness, stretchability, knitted fabric strength, thickness, and weight, W & W property, comfort (for example, stuffiness, breathability), etc. as a knit dress shirt, The course density is 40-60 / 2.54 cm and the wale density is 25-60 / 2.54 cm.

  Cellulosic fibers used for knitting the knitted fabric contain 50% by mass or more of cellulose fibers. By using such a cellulosic fiber, a knit dress shirt excellent in water absorption and texture can be obtained. The cellulose fiber preferably contains 70% by mass or more, more preferably 85% by mass or more, further preferably 90% by mass or more, and particularly preferably 100% by mass of cellulose fiber. With such a content, the water absorption and texture are extremely excellent, and an excellent wrinkle prevention effect can be obtained by using a treatment for crosslinking the cellulosic fibers (details will be described later). Content of the said cellulose fiber is a value calculated | required based on JISL1030-2.

  As said cellulose fiber, arbitrary appropriate cellulose fibers may be selected according to the objective etc. Specific examples of the cellulose fiber include cotton (for example, short fiber cotton, medium fiber cotton, long fiber cotton, super long cotton, super long cotton, super long cotton), hemp, bamboo, ridge, honey, banana, sac Plant and animal natural cellulose fibers such as: regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon fibers (eg, viscose rayon, copper ammonia rayon); semi-synthetic cellulose fibers such as acetate fibers (eg, bisacetate, triacetate); Can be mentioned. Among these, cotton, hemp, and rayon can be preferably used because a knitted fabric excellent in water absorption, texture, and physical properties can be obtained. The cellulose fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  Examples of other fibers that can be used in combination with the cellulose fibers in the cellulose fibers include polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyurethane fibers, polyethylene fibers, polyolefin fibers, polyimide fibers, and polylactic acid fibers. By using a polyester fiber, a polyamide fiber, a polyurethane fiber or the like in combination with the cellulose fiber, an effect of improving the bursting strength of the knitted fabric and improving the stretchability and the stretch recovery property can be obtained. The other fibers may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  In one preferable embodiment, the said cellulosic fiber contains 100 mass% of cotton. This is because, by using 100% cotton fiber, a more excellent wrinkle prevention effect can be obtained by a crosslinking treatment using a crosslinking agent described later while maintaining good water absorption and texture.

  The cellulosic fiber may be in any suitable form depending on the purpose. Specific examples include raw yarn (unprocessed yarn), false twisted yarn, and dyed yarn. Moreover, forms, such as a single yarn, a twisted yarn, and a covering yarn, are mentioned. Moreover, when the said cellulosic fiber contains 2 or more types of fiber, the said 2 or more types of fiber may be forms, such as a blended yarn and a mixed twisted yarn, for example. These forms may be adopted alone or in combination of two or more.

  The fineness of the above-mentioned cellulosic fiber is 20-100 in English cotton count. If the fineness is less than 20th, the texture as a knit dress shirt may become hard. On the other hand, when it exceeds 100, there are problems such as the bursting strength and tearing strength of the knitted fabric being lowered and the production cost being increased. From the viewpoints of water absorption, softness, stretchability, knitted fabric strength, thickness, and weight, W & W properties, comfort (for example, stuffiness, breathability) and the like as a knit dress shirt, a preferred fineness is 25. ~ 80. For example, as the yarn having a fineness of 40th, a 40th single yarn, a 80th single yarn, or the like can be used.

  The knitted fabric may be single knit or double knit. The knitted fabric is typically a weft knitting, and a flat knitting and a rubber knitting are preferable among the three primary structures of a flat knitting, a rubber knitting, and a pearl knitting. In addition, since the knitted fabric has a good touch, is difficult to see through and has excellent physical properties such as bursting strength and tearing strength, and the effect of improving the W & W property of the present invention can be suitably exhibited, the tack knitting An application organization such as an interlock knitting is preferable, and a smooth knitting such as a knitting knitting such as a front knitting knitting, a back knitting knitting, a total kanoko knitting, etc. and a rubber knitting, which incorporates an interlock knitting, can be more preferably used.

  As described above, the knitted fabric used for the knit dress shirt of the present invention is knitted with fine yarns and fine stitches, and thus is lightweight and difficult to see through, and is different from casual wear and underwear. A formal silhouette as a shirt, and a smooth feel can be realized. In such a knitted fabric, the knots between the yarns increase, so that the recovery of wrinkles generated during wearing or washing tends to decrease, and the W & W property tends to decrease. On the other hand, since the dress shirt of the present invention is formed so that the course direction of the knitted fabric is the vertical direction of the predetermined portion, it can have excellent wrinkle recovery and W & W properties. Furthermore, by selecting an appropriate knitting structure such as tack knitting or interlock knitting, it is more difficult to see through and feels good. Even if it is subjected to cross-linking treatment using a cross-linking agent described later, the physical properties and excellent W & W as a shirt A knit dress shirt with both sex can be obtained.

  The knitted fabric can be obtained by knitting the cellulosic fiber using any appropriate knitting machine. The gauge of the knitting machine (the number of knitting needles between 1 inch) can be appropriately set according to the basis weight of the target knitted fabric, the knitting density, the fineness of the fibers used, and the like. The gauge is preferably 20 to 40 / 2.54 cm, more preferably 22 to 40 / 2.54 cm. The size of the hook of the knitting machine is preferably 26 to 38 inches.

  From the viewpoint of imparting excellent wrinkle resistance and W & W properties to the knitted fabric, it is preferable to crosslink the cellulosic fibers by performing a crosslinking treatment using a crosslinking agent. As needed, you may give well-known process processes, such as hair-burning, scouring, bleaching, and mercerizing, before the said crosslinking process. The knitted fabric may be dyed or printed.

  The cross-linking agent means a compound that reacts with a hydroxyl group of cellulose to form a cross-linking bond between cellulosic fibers. In the present invention, it reacts with a hydroxyl group of cellulose to form a cross-link between cellulosic fibers. Any compound can be used.

  As said compound, the compound containing either a nitrogen atom, a carboxyl group, an epoxy group, an organooxy group, and a hydroxyl group is mentioned. Specifically, urea / formaldehyde compounds (for example, urea / formaldehyde resins, urea derivatives), melamine / formaldehyde compounds (for example, melamine / formaldehyde resins, melamine derivatives), cyclic urea compounds (for example, cyclic urea type resins, ethylene urea) Derivatives, butylene urea derivatives), alkyl carbamate compounds (eg, alkyl carbamate resins), acetal compounds (eg, acetal resins), epoxy compounds (eg, epoxy resins), organooxy groups or hydroxyl group-containing silicone compounds (eg, silicones) Resin, silicone sol), carboxylic acid compound, polycarboxylic acid, sulfone compound, quaternary ammonium salt, 1,3-dichloro-2-propanol derivative, N-methylolacrylamide, etc. It is below. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these, urea derivatives, melamine derivatives, cyclic urea compounds, epoxy compounds, organooxy group- or hydroxyl group-containing silicone compounds, and polycarboxylic acids are preferable in terms of effects, physical properties, reactivity, economy, and the like. Among these, ethylene urea type cyclic urea compounds are more preferable.

  As said urea derivative, well-known things, such as urea, monomethylol urea, dimethylol urea, can be used.

  As said melamine derivative, what contains a methylol group, an alkoxymethyl group, an alkoxyethyl group etc. is preferable, As an example, Di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexa-methylol melamine, di-, tri-, Tetra-, penta- or hexa-methylated methylol melamine, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexa-ethylated methylol melamine, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- or hexa-methylated ethylol Examples include melamine. Among these, in order to reduce formalin, it is effective to use an alkoxymethyl group, one containing an alkoxyethyl group, a reaction product of melamine and dimethoxyethanal, or the like.

  As the cyclic urea compound, specifically, dimethylol ethylene urea, dimethylol triazone, dimethylol uron, dimethylol glyoxal monourene, dimethylol propylene urea, methoxylation of some or all of these methylol groups, Examples include ethoxylated ones. Among these, the ethylene urea type is preferable in terms of reactivity and price, and in order to reduce formalin, a part or all of the methylol group is methoxylated or ethoxylated, or dimethylol called a low form type. Use of dihydroxyethylene urea or the like is effective.

  Examples of the organooxy group or hydroxyl group-containing silicone compound include methyltriethoxysilane, tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, tetrabutoxysilane, methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltripropoxysilane, methyltributoxysilane, ethyl Trimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, ethyltripropoxysilane, ethyltributoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, propyltripropoxysilane, propyltributoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane, phenyl Tripropoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane, dimethyldiethoxysilane, dimethyldipropoxysilane, dimethyldibutoxy , Diethyldimethoxysilane, diethyldiethoxysilane, diethyldipropoxysilane, diethyldibutoxysilane, dipropyldimethoxysilane, dipropyldiethoxysilane, dipropyldipropoxysilane, dipropyldibutoxysilane, diphenyldihydroxysilane, trimethylmethoxy Silane, trimethylethoxysilane, trimethylpropoxysilane, trimethylbutoxysilane, triethylmethoxysilane, triethylethoxysilane, triethylpropoxysilane, triethylbutoxysilane, tripropylmethoxysilane, tripropylethoxysilane, tripropylpropoxysilane, tripropylbutoxysilane, And triphenylhydroxysilane and their (partial) hydrolysis condensates. The Ganoderma oxy silane compounds may be used in combination singly or two or more. Among these, triorganoxysilane and tetraorganoxysilane such as methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, tetramethoxysilane, and tetraethoxysilane are preferably used for forming a crosslinked structure. Since bifunctional silane compounds can also be reacted with cellulosic fibers, any mono- to tetrafunctional silane compound can be used in the present invention.

  Examples of the polycarboxylic acid include oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, undecanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, brassic acid, propylmalonic acid. , Saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as butyl malonic acid, heptyl malonic acid, dipropyl malonic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, iminodiacetic acid, thiodipropionic acid, thiomaleic acid; maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid , Citraconic acid, hexadiene diacid (muconic acid), dodecadiene diacid and other unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids; phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, homophthalic acid, hexahydroterephthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, biphenyldicarboxylic acid, methylphthalic acid Acid, hydroxyisophthalic acid Hydrindene dicarboxylic acid, diphenyl ether dicarboxylic acid, benzophenone dicarboxylic acid, carboxymethyl benzoic acid, trifluoromethyl phthalic acid, azoxybenzene dicarboxylic acid, hydrazobenzene dicarboxylic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid, diphenyl sulfonic dicarboxylic acid, pyridine dicarboxylic acid, queridam Acid, aromatic dicarboxylic acid such as pyrazinedicarboxylic acid; het acid, 4-cyclohexene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid, cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, cyclopentanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, piperidine-2,3- Dicarboxylic acid (hexahydroquinolinic acid), piperidine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (hexahydrodipicolinic acid), piperidine-3,4-dicarboxylic acid (hexahydrosidic acid) Cycloaliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as comemeronic acid; aliphatic tricarboxylic acids such as tricarballylic acid, aconitic acid, methylcyclohexeric acid, citric acid, 1,2,3-butanetricarboxylic acid; butanetetracarboxylic acid, cyclopentanetetra Carboxylic acid, tetrahydrofuran tetracarboxylic acid, ene adduct of methyltetrahydrophthalic acid and maleic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid, glycol etherdiaminetetraacetic acid, diphthalic acid, epoxidized succinic acid dimerization Aliphatic tetracarboxylic acid such as diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid; aliphatic hexacarboxylic acid such as triethylenetetraminehexaacetic acid; trimellitic acid, pyromellitic acid, biphenyltetracarboxylic acid, benzoic acid Aromatic polycarboxylic acids such as enonetetracarboxylic acid and diphenylsulfonetetracarboxylic acid; acrylic acid polymer, crotonic acid polymer, maleic acid polymer, itaconic acid (or itaconic anhydride) polymer, acrylic acid / methacrylic acid Acid copolymer, acrylic acid / (anhydrous) maleic acid copolymer, methacrylic acid / (anhydrous) maleic acid copolymer, acrylic acid / itaconic acid copolymer, acrylic acid / 3-butene-1,2, 3-tricarboxylic acid copolymer, (anhydrous) maleic acid / α-methylstyrene copolymer, (anhydrous) maleic acid / styrene copolymer (tetrazole formed by Diels-Alder reaction and ene reaction from styrene and maleic anhydride) (Including carboxylic acid), (anhydrous) maleic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymer, acrylic acid / 3-butene-1,2,3-to Carboxylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymer, methacrylic acid / (anhydrous) maleic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, (anhydrous) maleic acid / alkyl acrylate / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, (anhydrous) maleic Acid, alkyl acrylate, styrene copolymer, acrylic acid, (anhydrous) maleic acid, alkyl acrylate, styrene copolymer, methacrylic acid, (anhydrous) maleic acid, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, Examples thereof include carboxylic acid polymers such as 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate / styrene copolymer. Among these, water-soluble polycarboxylic acids such as tricarboxylic acid and tetracarboxylic acid can be preferably used because they are easy to uniformly treat and work.

  As said epoxy compound, what has a 2 or more reactive functional group in a molecule | numerator is preferable, and it is preferable that the said reactive functional group is a glycidyl ether group or a chlorohydrin group. Specifically, for example, two functional groups in ethylene glycol-based molecules such as ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether and polyethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, and propylene glycol-based molecules such as propylene glycol diglycidyl ether and polypropylene glycol diglycidyl ether. And an epoxy-based cross-linking agent having three or more functional groups such as glycerol glycidyl ether. Further, as the epoxy-modified silicone, a silicone derivative having an epoxy group that reacts directly with a hydroxyl group of cellulose can also be used. Epoxy groups include glycidyl type and alicyclic type, but any type may be used. These may be used alone or in a mixed system.

  Among the above crosslinking agents, melamine derivatives, ethylene urea type cyclic urea compounds, triorganoxysilanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, tetramethoxysilane, tetraethoxysilane, and tetraorganoxysilanes, 3 or more And a compound having an epoxy group that directly reacts with a hydroxyl group of cellulose can be suitably used.

  In the crosslinking treatment, it is preferable to use as a crosslinking treatment solution in which the crosslinking agent is dissolved or dispersed in water or the like. The concentration of the crosslinking agent in the crosslinking treatment liquid is preferably 0.5 to 80% by mass, more preferably 0.5 to 50% by mass.

  A catalyst can be added to the crosslinking treatment liquid in order to increase the reactivity between the crosslinking agent and cellulose and to perform the crosslinking treatment quickly. The catalyst is not particularly limited as long as it is a catalyst usually used for resin processing of cellulosic fibers; urea derivative; melamine derivative; cyclic urea compound; epoxy compound; silicone compound; alkyl carbamate resin; Boron fluoride compounds such as sodium borofluoride, potassium borofluoride, zinc borofluoride; neutral metal salt catalysts such as magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate; phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfurous acid, hyposulfite, boric acid Inorganic acids such as; If necessary, these catalysts can be used in combination with an organic acid such as citric acid, tartaric acid, apple acid, maleic acid or the like as a cocatalyst.

  The amount of the catalyst used is preferably 0.01 to 400% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 300% by mass with respect to the crosslinking agent. When the amount of the catalyst used is less than 0.01% by mass, the reaction yield decreases, the amount of crosslinking decreases, and the effect may be insufficient. On the other hand, when the amount of the catalyst used exceeds 400% by mass, the strength of the fiber may be reduced or the color may be changed due to acid decomposition of the cellulosic fiber.

  If necessary, an auxiliary agent for smoothly advancing the reaction between the cellulose and the crosslinking agent can be added to the crosslinking treatment liquid. The auxiliary agent has an action as a reaction solvent that promotes the reaction between the crosslinking agent and cellulose, or promotes the reaction even in the crosslinking formation reaction, and further has an action of swelling the cellulose. Examples of the auxiliary agent include polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monobutyl ether. Nitrogen-containing solvents such as ether alcohols, dimethylformamide, morpholine, 2-pyrrolidone, dimethylacetamide, N-methylpyrrolidone, ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl acetate Examples thereof include esters such as ether and γ-butyrolactone. These can be used individually by 1 type or in mixture of 2 or more types.

  1-400 mass% is preferable with respect to a crosslinking agent, and, as for the usage-amount of the said adjuvant, More preferably, it is 5-300 mass%. When the usage-amount of auxiliary agent is less than 1 mass%, the effect which makes reaction smooth may become inadequate. On the other hand, when the usage-amount of auxiliary agent exceeds 400 mass%, it may cause the embrittlement of a cellulose or it may become complicated to remove an auxiliary agent from a knitted fabric after a crosslinking process.

  In addition to the above-described components, the crosslinking treatment liquid may contain a softening agent for adjusting the texture, a formalin catcher for reducing free formalin concentration, a surfactant as a penetrating agent, and the like. it can. Formalin, such as melamine derivatives and cyclic urea type resins, may be used in combination with formalin catcher agents, and if the cross-linked cellulose is hardened, the tear strength and tensile strength are reduced. When the permeability of the treatment liquid into the knitted fabric is low, it is preferable to use a penetrant in combination.

  The pH of the crosslinking treatment liquid can be adjusted within a range of usually 1 to 6, preferably 2 to 5. If it is in such a range, the fall of the fiber strength and discoloration by hydrolysis of a cellulose can be prevented. The pH can be adjusted by any suitable pH adjuster.

  The crosslinking treatment can be typically performed by attaching a crosslinking treatment liquid containing the crosslinking agent or the like to the knitted fabric, and then performing a heat treatment. As a method of attaching the crosslinking treatment liquid to the knitted fabric, a known method such as a normal pad / dry method, dipping method, impregnation method, printing method, ink jet printing method, laser printer printing method, coating method, spraying method, etc. Can be adopted. For example, when processing the entire knitted fabric, the pad dry method is efficient and preferable. When treating the entire product, it can be easily carried out by dipping or spraying. The spraying method is efficient when processing a part of the product. For example, by covering a portion not subjected to crosslinking treatment with masking having a desired shape and the like, and spraying the crosslinking treatment liquid on the entire fabric from above, the treatment liquid can be adhered to other than the masked portion. Alternatively, a sheet or the like that has been die-cut into a desired shape can be set on the fabric, and the treatment liquid can be sprayed and attached only to the die-cut portion. When an elaborate pattern is formed by an inkjet printing method or the like, a known thickener, penetrant, pressure-sensitive adhesive, or cationic treatment agent is added to the above-mentioned treatment liquid for the purpose of obtaining a clear pattern without liquid bleeding and density unevenness. Etc. can be added.

  As for the adhesion amount of the crosslinking agent with respect to the said knitted fabric, 0.3-25 mass% is preferable with respect to the mass of a knitted fabric. If the adhesion amount is less than 0.3% by mass, sufficient wrinkle resistance and W & W properties may not be obtained. On the other hand, if the adhesion amount exceeds 25% by mass, the breaking strength and tear strength of the crosslinked cellulose fiber may be greatly reduced. However, if the physical properties (tensile strength, tear strength, burst strength, etc.) can be increased by selecting the type of cellulosic fiber, etc., the adhesion amount of the crosslinking agent can be increased. For example, if part or all of cotton yarn containing long fiber cotton, super long cotton, or super / super long cotton is used in place of the cotton yarn made of medium fiber cotton, it is effective in improving the burst strength, tensile strength and tear strength.

  The heat treatment is preferably performed at 70 to 220 ° C., more preferably 80 to 180 ° C., preferably 0.5 to 60 minutes, more preferably 1 to 40 minutes, using a heating means such as a pin tenter, oven, baking machine or the like. It can be performed under the following heat treatment conditions. Under such conditions, a sufficient amount of crosslinking can be obtained without embrittlement of the cellulose fiber or the crosslinked cellulose fiber.

The knit dress shirt of the present invention is typically obtained by cutting out the knitted fabric to a predetermined size and sewing the members obtained thereby by any appropriate method. Specifically, the knit dress shirt of the present invention is knitted with the above-mentioned knitted fabric, that is, cellulosic fibers containing 50% by mass or more of cellulose fibers and having an English cotton count of 20 to 100, and the basis weight is 110. ˜230 g / m ² , a course density of 35 to 65 / 2.54 cm, and a knitted fabric having a wale density of 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm, the course direction of which is the front body part, the back body part, It can be obtained by a manufacturing method including a step (sewing step) in which the sleeve portion, the pocket portion, the upper placket portion, and the lower placket portion are sewn in the longitudinal direction. Preferably, the manufacturing method includes a step (crosslinking treatment step) of subjecting the knitted fabric to a treatment for crosslinking cellulosic fibers, and a knitted fabric after the treatment, the course direction of which is the front body portion, the rear portion It includes a step (sewing step) in which the body part, the sleeve part, the pocket part, the upper plait part, and the lower placket part are sewn in the longitudinal direction. The crosslinking treatment process is as described above.

  The suturing in the suturing step can be performed by machine sewing or hand-sewing using a sewing machine, and is preferably performed using a sewing machine. As the sewing needle, it is preferable to use a ball point needle having a round needle tip in order to prevent the ground yarn in the knitted structure from being cut at the needle tip (hereinafter referred to as “ground yarn breakage”). Furthermore, for a fine gauge (for example, 26 to 30 gauge) or ultra fine gauge (for example, 32 gauge or more) knitted fabric, it is preferable to use a fine gauge or ultra fine gauge needle from the viewpoint of preventing yarn breakage. .

  Any appropriate thread may be selected as the thread used for the suturing according to the purpose. Preferred yarns include composite yarns such as cotton yarn, polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton covering yarn with polyester filament as the core, and core spun yarn with polyester filament as the core and cotton as the sheath. When using 100% cotton knitted fabric, cotton yarn, polyester yarn, and cotton-based composite yarn (for example, cotton covering yarn with polyester filament as the core, polyester filament as the core, and cotton as the sheath) Corespun yarn) can be preferably used.

  Any appropriate seam can be selected as the seam in the suturing according to the purpose. Preferred stitches include main stitch, chain stitch (for example, chain stitch), split stitch, overlock stitch, interlock stitch, winding stitch, flat stitch, and the like. These seams can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  The number of moving needles (the number of stitches per 30 mm) in the sewing by the main stitch is preferably 12 to 30/30 mm, and more preferably 14 to 24/30 mm. If the number of hands is less than 12/30 mm, the appearance as a dress shirt may be unsatisfactory. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30/30 mm, the yarn breakage may easily occur.

  In a preferred embodiment, a side seam portion (portion indicated by a thick dotted line in FIG. 3) that is a stitched portion between the front body portion 10 and the back body portion 20, the front body portion 10, the back body portion 20, and the shoulder yoke portion 60. The armhole portion (the portion indicated by the thick solid line in FIG. 3) that is a stitched portion between the sleeve portion 30 and the sleeve portion 30 and the stitched portion of the lower placket 51 have vertical stretchability. By having the stretchability in the vertical direction, the stitched portion can follow the stretch of the body cloth due to washing and drying, etc., so that the W & W property can be improved and the occurrence of seam puckering can be reduced. Furthermore, the ease of movement when worn can also be improved. In one preferred embodiment, each of the stitched portions is preferably 30% with respect to the stretch rate in the course direction of the knitted fabric before sewing in the measurement of the stretch rate (constant load 14.7N) of the JIS L-1096 method. As described above, it may have a longitudinal elongation rate of 35% or more, more preferably 40% or more. Moreover, in another preferable embodiment, each said stitching | suture part may be 3.8 grade or more by the puckering evaluation by JISL-1905 method. The vertical direction of each stitched portion means the direction in which the seam line extends.

  FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view illustrating an example of a preferable stitched state of the side seam portion. The said stitching | suture part is formed from the knitted fabric and the thread | yarn, and does not contain the interlining. Such a stitched portion can be formed, for example, as follows. That is, the front body part 10 and the back body part 20 are overlapped with the front side and the end part on the sewing side being aligned, and the single needle three thread overlock stitching A1 along the end part. Applying a single-needle, two-thread chain stitch B1 and sewing together, folding back the back body part 20 along the chain stitch B1, and sewing at the folded part (part where the knitted fabric is tripled) It can be formed by applying C1 and fixing the end. By sewing together in this way, it is possible to reduce irritation to the skin and improve the appearance and texture of the dress shirt. The overlock sewing A1 and the chain stitch B1 can be performed simultaneously by using an interlock sewing machine.

  The width | variety of the said folding | turning part may be 2-20 mm, for example. Further, it is preferable that the main stitch C1 is applied in the vicinity of the end portion from the viewpoint of fixing the stitched end portion.

  In another preferred embodiment, the side seam portion can be formed by performing a lock stitch sewing. According to such sewing, a side seam part can be formed by one time sewing, without sewing twice. The side seam portion formed in this way may also have a form that does not include an interlining.

  FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view illustrating an example of a preferable stitched state of the armhole portion. The said stitching | suture part is formed from the knitted fabric and the thread | yarn, and does not contain the interlining. Such a stitched portion can be formed, for example, as follows. That is, the front body part 10, the back body part 20, and the shoulder yoke part 60 and the sleeve part 30 that have been sewn together are overlapped in a state where the end parts on the side to be sewn are aligned. 1 needle 3 thread overlock sewing A2 and 1 needle 2 thread chain stitch B2 are sewn along the part, and the front body part 10 (rear body part 20, shoulder yoke part) along the chain stitch B2. 60), and a main sewing C2 is applied to the folded portion (the portion where the knitted fabric is tripled) to fix the end portion. By sewing together in this way, it is possible to reduce irritation to the skin and improve the appearance and texture of the dress shirt. The width | variety of a folding | returning part and the site | part which performs the main sewing C2 are as having described about the side seam part.

  In another preferred embodiment, as shown in FIG. 6, the armhole portion includes the front body portion 10, the rear body portion 20, the shoulder yoke portion 60, and the sleeve portion 30 that are pre-stitched together with the main stitch C <b> 3. It can be formed by sewing together with a subsequent down stitch (C4 is a main stitch). The side seam portion formed in this way may also have a form that does not include an interlining.

  As described above, in the knit dress shirt of the present invention, the knitted fabric has a course direction that is the longitudinal direction of the body and the like, and the stretchability in the course direction of the knitted fabric before sewing is not diminished. Since the stitches are sewn together, the stitched portions can sufficiently maintain the stretchability in the vertical direction even when they are sewn twice. Specifically, each stitched portion may have an elongation rate in the longitudinal direction of preferably 30% or more with respect to the elongation rate in the course direction of the knitted fabric before sewing. Preferably, it may have an elongation rate in the longitudinal direction of 80% or more, more preferably 100% or more with respect to the elongation rate in the wale direction. As a result, it is excellent in comfort, and at the time of hanging and drying, it is possible to produce an effect that an appropriate tension is generated in each stitched portion similarly to the body cloth and wrinkles are easily removed. Therefore, the knit dress shirt of the present invention sewn together as described above does not have to fix the side seam portion and the armhole portion with an interlining or the like in order to impart high W & W properties like a woven fabric shirt. There may be advantages such as a feeling of looseness of the stitched portion, easy follow-up of body movement, light weight, and easy stitching. Furthermore, by sewing together as described above, the stitched portion can follow the body cloth when worn and can be properly stretched, and can also follow the body cloth and contract even when hanging and drying, thus preventing seam puckering. Can be reduced.

  FIG. 7 is a schematic cross-sectional view for explaining an example of a preferred stitched state of the stitched portion of the lower placket. The said stitching | suture part is formed from the knitted fabric and the thread | yarn, and does not contain the interlining. Such a stitched portion can be formed, for example, as follows. That is, the end part of the lower front part of the front body part 10 is folded back to the back surface side by a predetermined width twice, and the main sewing C5 is applied to the folded part (part where the knitted fabric is tripled). Can be formed. The lower placket formed in this way can maintain sufficient stretchability in the vertical direction. As a result, the wearability is excellent, high W & W performance can be realized without using an interlining, and the occurrence of seam puckering can be reduced. The folding width may be 5 to 40 mm, for example.

  FIG. 8 is a schematic cross-sectional view for explaining an example of another preferred stitching state of the stitched portion of the lower placket. Such a stitched portion can be formed, for example, as follows. That is, the interlining 90 is overlapped on the back side of the end portion of the front body portion 10, the front body portion 10 is folded twice on the back side so as to wrap the interlining 90, the folded portion (including the interlining, It can be formed by applying the main stitch C6 to the portion where the ground is tripled, and then bonding the interlining to the knitted fabric as necessary. Since the lower placket formed in this way includes an interlining, it is possible to prevent the position of the button and the button hole from shifting. The folding width corresponds to the width of the interlining and can be, for example, 5 to 40 mm.

  Examples of the interlining include a plush core, a temporary adhesive core, and a permanent adhesive core, and can be appropriately selected and used from these according to the purpose. Among these, a flash core or a temporary adhesive core can be preferably used. This is because it is possible to form a lower placket having a sufficient stretchability in the vertical direction, and as a result, it is possible to realize excellent wear and high W & W properties and to reduce the occurrence of seam puckering.

  On the other hand, the collar portion, the upper placket portion, the cuff portion, and the pocket portion are preferably sewn together by using an interlining from the viewpoint of shape retention, aesthetics, and the like. For example, the interlining can be appropriately selected from a plush core, a temporary adhesive core, and a permanent adhesive core according to the purpose. Specifically, with respect to the collar portion, it is preferable to select an adhesive core from the viewpoint of further improving the shape retention, and from the viewpoint of improving comfort by following the movement of the body fabric, the plush core is selected. It is preferable to select.

  FIG. 9 is a schematic cross-sectional view illustrating an example of a preferable stitched state of the pocket portion. In the pocket, an adhesive core is fixed to the non-sewn portion on the back side of the pocket portion. For example, the pocket portion is obtained by fixing the adhesive core 90 to the entire back surface side of the pocket knitted fabric 40, and then folding back the peripheral portion to the back surface side to sew the pocket member. It can be formed by overlapping the pocket member on the surface of the front body part 10 so as to be on the side of the front part 10 and applying a lock stitch C7 to the peripheral part (excluding the pocket opening part) of the pocket member. Thus, by fixing the adhesive core not only to the stitched portion of the pocket portion but also to the non-stitched portion, the shape retaining property after washing and the shape retaining property of the pocket in a state where an object is put can be further improved. . The folded width when forming the pocket member may be, for example, 2 to 20 mm.

As the adhesive core fixed to the pocket member, any appropriate adhesive core can be selected according to the purpose and the like, and a permanent adhesive core can be preferably used. Weight per unit area of the adhesive core is preferably 20 to 100 g / ^{m 2.} If the basis weight is less than 20 g / m ² , the shape retention may be insufficient. On the other hand, when the basis weight exceeds 100 g / m ² , the pocket of the thin knit dress shirt becomes hard and a problem such as an increase in thickness may occur. The base fabric of the adhesive core is preferably a woven fabric.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention concretely, this invention is not limited by these Examples. The measurement methods and evaluation methods used in the examples are as follows.

[Evaluation of wash and wear properties]
JIS L-1096 Wrinkles after washing Washing was performed according to the A method. The dehydration after dehydration was performed by hanging shirts one by one on a hanger. The size of the shirt was L size. The number of test points was one. One W & W judge was determined by comparing the back of the shirt with a replica (specified in AATCC TEST METHOD 124). The evaluation standard was evaluated in increments of 0.1. For example, in the case of grades 3.0 to 3.5, the grades were 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, and 3.5. In general, if the W & W property is 3.5 or higher, it is a level that can be worn without ironing.

[Measurement of bursting strength]
JIS L-1018 Burst strength It carried out according to A method. Measurement was performed on three samples, and the average value was used. In addition, the cloth for a dress shirt is generally required to have a bursting strength of 350 KPa or more, preferably 400 KPa or more. If the bursting strength of the shirt fabric is less than 350 KPa, the fabric may not be able to withstand the pressure generated at the elbow during wearing, or the fabric may be broken during wearing.

[Measurement of dimensional change rate]
It carried out according to JIS L-1909 method. Specifically, the washing treatment was carried out by the 103 method specified in Table 1 “Washing (washing)” of JIS L-0217. The drying process was carried out by hanging the shirt on a hanger after dehydration. The number of test points was one.

[Measurement of elongation rate]
It carried out according to JIS L-1096 method. Specifically, the dimensions of the sample are 5 cm wide and 30 cm long, and in order to determine the elongation in the length direction of the sample, a straight line of 15 cm is drawn in the length direction and then a constant load of 14.7 N for 60 seconds. Then, the length of the straight line was measured, and the elongation rate (increment of straight line length (cm) / 15 cm × 100) was determined by calculation. The temperature and humidity when measuring the elongation rate were set to a temperature of 22 ° C. and a humidity of 63 RH%. The side seam part and arm hole part are sewn together in accordance with the specifications of the two shirt fabrics, and then the width is such that the stitching part is the center in the width direction and the direction in which the seam line extends is the length direction. A sample cut out with a size of 5 cm and a length of 30 cm was used as a measurement sample. With regard to the lower placket, the shirt fabric is sewn as specified, and then the length of the stitched side of the fabric is 5 cm wide and 30 cm long so that the direction in which the seam line extends is the length direction. The sample cut out was used as a measurement sample.

[Evaluation of puckering]
It carried out according to JIS L-1905 method. Specifically, the washing treatment was carried out by the 103 method specified in Table 1 “Washing (washing)” of JIS L-0217. The drying process was carried out by hanging the shirt on a hanger after dehydration. The determination of puckering was performed by using a determination standard replica as a standard and evaluating by dividing the determination standard into four stages by one judge. For example, in the case of grades 3.0 to 4.0, the grades were 3.0, 3.3, 3.5, 3.8, and 4.0. The number of test points was one.

[Evaluation of comfort]
10 subjects wear shirts that fit their body shape for one day and are easy to move (5 points: very easy to move, 4 points: easy to move, 3 points: slightly difficult to move, 2 points: difficult to move, 1 point : Difficult to move as a dress shirt is difficult to wear), Difficult to protrude from the shirt trousers (5 points: not protruding at all, 4 points: difficult to protrude, 3 points: a little overwhelming 2 points: easy to stick out, 1 point: sticks out as a dress shirt is difficult to wear, and silhouette (5 points: I don't care about the body shape at all, 4 points: I don't care about the body shape, 3 points: slightly body shape 2 points: the body shape is reflected in the silhouette, 1 point: the body shape is reflected in the silhouette so that it is difficult to wear as a dress shirt), and the average value was obtained.

[Example 1]
Using a high-gauge single knitting machine (30 inches (30 x 2.54 cm), 32 gauge), knitting fabric is obtained by knitting British cotton count 40 (single No. 40) cotton yarn with Omotoshi noko knitting. It was. The knitted fabric is mercerized (the fabric processing speed is 20 m / min, the fabric is dipped in an aqueous solution with a sodium hydroxide concentration of 16% by mass, wrung out with a mangle, then widened with a tenter, and the chemical is removed by washing in water), scouring Bleaching (performed in two stages. In the first stage, after treatment with 0.2% by mass of sodium chlorite at 90 ° C. for 60 minutes, the chemical was removed by washing in hot water. It was treated at 0.1% by mass at 90 ° C. for 60 minutes.), Followed by hot water washing (removal of chemicals) and drying.

71 parts by weight of water, 15 parts by weight of dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (solid content concentration 60% by weight) of the following formula (1) as a crosslinking agent, 3 parts by weight of an aqueous solution of magnesium chloride having a solid content concentration of 20% by weight as a catalyst, a formalin catcher Dainippon Ink & Chemicals Co., Ltd., product name “Finetex FC-KP” 3 parts by mass as a softener, Dainippon Ink & Chemicals Co., Ltd. product name “Finetex PE-140-E” 3 Mass parts and 5 parts by mass of product name “AMC-800E” manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd. were mixed to obtain a crosslinking treatment liquid. The cross-linking treatment liquid was applied to the knitted fabric after the treatment with a padder and squeezed with a mangle. The pad-on rate (weight of the crosslinking treatment solution contained in the knitted fabric / weight of the knitted fabric before application of the crosslinking treatment solution × 100) was 65%. Subsequently, the knitted fabric was retained in a pin tenter set at 145 ° C. for 2 minutes to sufficiently react the cellulose and the crosslinking agent. As a result, a finished fabric for the knit dress shirt of the present invention was obtained.

The finished dough had a width of 174 cm, a basis weight of 159 g / m ² , a course density of 42 / 2.54 cm, and a wale density of 39 / 2.54 cm. The bursting strength was 431 KPa. The stretch rate in the course direction of the dough was 65%, and the stretch rate in the wale direction was 29%.

  The finished fabric was cut to a predetermined size and sewed with a thread to prepare a knit dress shirt. At this time, the knitted fabric was sewn so that the course direction of the knitted fabric was the longitudinal direction of the front body part, the back body part, the sleeve part, the pocket part, the upper plait part, and the lower plait part of the shirt. For the shoulder yoke portion, the collar portion, and the cuff portion, the course direction of the fabric was made to coincide with these lateral directions.

  As for the side seam portion, a stitched portion as shown in FIG. 4 was formed. Specifically, the front body portion 10 and the back body portion 20 are overlapped so that the surfaces face each other and the end portions on the side to be sewn are aligned, and 1 along the end portions using an interlock sewing machine. The main needle three-thread overlock sewing A1 and the one-needle two-thread chain stitch B1 are applied, and then the back body part 20 is folded back along the chain stitch B1, and the folded part (the knitted fabric is tripled). Part) was subjected to lock stitch C1 (number of needles 15/30 mm). The longitudinal elongation rate of the side seam portion thus formed was 31%. Further, the stretch rate of the stitched portion before the main stitch C1 was applied was 46%.

  For the armhole portion, a stitched portion as shown in FIG. 5 was formed. Specifically, the front body part 10, the rear body part 20, and the shoulder yoke part 60 and the sleeve part 30, which have been sewn together, are overlapped so that the surfaces face each other and the end parts on the side to be sewn are aligned. Then, using an interlock sewing machine, a one-needle three-thread overlock stitch A2 and a one-needle two-thread chain stitch B2 are applied along the end portion, and then the front body portion 10 ( The back body part 20 and the shoulder yoke part 60) were folded back, and the seam C2 (number of stitches 15/30 mm) was applied to the folded part (the part where the knitted fabric was tripled). The shoulder yoke portion was used in a state in which two fabrics of an outer surface yoke portion and a skin side inner surface yoke portion were overlapped. The armhole portion thus formed had a longitudinal elongation rate of 29%. Further, the stretch rate of the stitched portion before the main stitch C2 was applied was 46%.

  As for the lower placket, a stitched portion as shown in FIG. 7 was formed. Specifically, the end part of the lower front part of the front body part 10 is folded twice toward the back side with a folding width of 25 mm, so that three knitted fabrics are stacked, and the main stitching C5 (needle-operated C5) (15/30 mm). The elongation ratio in the longitudinal direction of the lower placket formed in this manner was 43%.

For the pocket portion, a stitched portion as shown in FIG. 9 was formed. Specifically, an adhesive core 90 (total fabric weight 60 g / m ² , plain weave structure, made of polyester) is fixed to the entire back surface side of the cut pocket knitted fabric 40, and then the peripheral portion is formed in the pocket shape on the back surface side. Folding was performed, and the stitched portion (hand movement 15/3 cm) was applied to the folded portion with one needle to form a pocket member. The pocket member and the front body portion are overlapped on the surface of the front body portion 10 and a lock stitch C7 (number of needles 15/30 mm) is applied to the peripheral edge portion (excluding the pocket opening portion) of the pocket member. And sewed together.

  The collar and upper placket were sewn together using a plush core.

  In the above stitching, as a sewing needle for interlock sewing, a product name “DC × 1SF” (manufactured by Organ Needle Co., Ltd., for ultra fine gauge knit) was used from the viewpoint of preventing breakage of the ground yarn. The product name “DA × 1KN” (manufactured by Organ Needle Co., Ltd., for knitting) was used as the sewing needle for main sewing. As the sewing thread, a core spun thread (product name “LR50” manufactured by Gunze Co., Ltd.) with a cotton sheath was used for the purpose of improving the appearance as a shirt stitch and improving the durability of the stitched portion.

  The performance of the knit dress shirt sewn as described above was evaluated with respect to W & W property, puckering, and dimensional change. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 2]
The side seam portion of the shirt was formed by lock stitching (three windings), the armhole portion was formed by lock stitch C3 as shown in FIG. 6, followed by bind stitching (C4 is lock stitch), and As shown in FIG. 8, the lower placket is sewed in three turns with a folding width of 25 mm with a temporary adhesive core (total weight 124 g / m ² , plain weave structure, made of polyester) sandwiched, and then the core A knitted dress shirt was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was formed by temporarily adhering to. The longitudinal elongation rates of the side seam portion, armhole portion, and lower placket portion thus formed were 36%, 34%, and 31%, respectively.

  The performance of the resulting knit dress shirt was evaluated for W & W properties, puckering, and dimensional changes. The results are shown in Table 1.

[Example 3]
Except that dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea was not added to the cross-linking treatment liquid, and the coarse density of the finished dough was 44 / 2.54 cm and the wale density was 29 / 2.54 cm, the same as in Example 1. Got a knit dress shirt. The basis weight of the finished fabric was 189 g / m ² and the bursting strength was 745 KPa.

[Example 4]
Using a high-gauge double knitting machine (30 inches (30 x 2.54 cm), 32 gauge), knitting cotton yarn of British cotton count 60 (single 60) with double-sided knitting (smooth knitting) I got the ground.

69 parts by mass of water, 17 parts by mass of dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea (solid content concentration 60% by mass) of the above formula (1) as a crosslinking agent, and 20% by mass of magnesium chloride as a catalyst with respect to the knitted fabric. 3 parts by weight of an aqueous solution, manufactured by Dainippon Ink & Chemicals, Inc. as a formalin catcher agent, 3 parts by weight of a product name “Finetex FC-KP”, and manufactured by Dainippon Ink & Chemicals, Inc. as a softener. Example 1 except that 3 parts by weight of PE-140-E and 5 parts by weight of product name “AMC-800E” manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd. were used. Processing was performed to obtain a finished fabric for a knit dress shirt. The finished fabric had a basis weight of 176 g / m ² , a course density of 43 / 2.54 cm, and a wale density of 58 / 2.54 cm. The bursting strength was 676 KPa.

  The finished fabric was sewed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knit dress shirt.

[Comparative Example 1]
A commercially available dress shirt (manufactured by CHOYA Co., Ltd., trade name SHIRT FACTORY) was used. The dress shirt is a form-stabilized fabric of plain weave fabric using British cotton count 40 (single single yarn) as warp and British cotton count 30 (single 30) cotton as weft. The W & W property is 3.5 grade for tumble drying and 3.0 grade for hanging drying.

[Comparative Example 2]
61 parts by weight of water, 22 parts by weight of dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea of the above formula (1) as a crosslinking agent (solids concentration 60% by weight), 4.5 parts by weight of an aqueous magnesium chloride solution having a solids concentration of 20% by weight as a catalyst, Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd. as a formalin catcher agent, product name "Finetex FC-KP" 4.5 parts by mass, Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd. as a softener, product name "Finetex PE-140" -E "and a knit dress in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a crosslinking treatment liquid obtained by mixing 5 parts by mass of product name" AMC-800E "manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd. was used. A finished fabric for the shirt was obtained. The bursting strength of the finished fabric was 320 KPa.

  Implemented except that the knitted fabric was sewed in the vertical direction of the front body part, back body part, sleeve part, pocket part, upper front part, and lower front part using the finished fabric. Sewing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a knit dress shirt.

[Comparative Example 3]
A knit dress similar to that of Example 3 except that the knitted fabric is sewed so that the waling direction is the longitudinal direction of the front body part, the back body part, the sleeve part, the pocket part, the upper front part and the lower front part. I got a shirt.

[Evaluation of W & W properties]
Table 2 shows the W & W properties of the knit dress shirts of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 2 to 3.

  In Table 2 above, as is clear from the comparison between Example 3 and Comparative Example 3, the knitted dress shirt of the present invention sewn so that the course direction of the knitted fabric is the vertical direction of the body part, etc. It has superior W & W properties than shirts sewn so that the direction is the longitudinal direction of the body part. Specifically, even when 100% cotton knitted fabric is used, the cellulosic fiber is crosslinked by sewing so that the course direction of the knitted fabric is the longitudinal direction of the body part, etc. In this way, the W & W performance of 3.5 grade could be realized. Furthermore, by combining the crosslinking treatment, an extremely excellent W & W property of 4.0 grade could be realized. On the other hand, in the knit dress shirt of Comparative Example 2, the W & W property of 4.0 grade was obtained by the crosslinking treatment. However, since the reaction with a large amount of the crosslinking agent was necessary, the bursting strength of the fabric was not good as a dress shirt. It had dropped to a sufficient level. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a knit dress shirt excellent in W & W properties without performing a crosslinking treatment, and to make the reaction amount with a crosslinking agent appropriate when crosslinking treatment is performed. Thus, it can be seen that a knit dress shirt having excellent W & W properties can be obtained while maintaining the physical properties of the shirt. According to such a knit dress shirt of the present invention, ironing for wrinkle stretching is unnecessary, which can contribute to power saving.

[Evaluation of comfort]
Table 3 shows the evaluation of the comfort of the dress shirts of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2.

  As can be seen from Table 3, the knit dress shirt of Example 1 is comfortable as a dress shirt because it has the same silhouette feeling as the dress shirt of the fabric of Comparative Example 1 but also has excellent mobility and difficulty in protruding from the pants. Can be worn on. Moreover, since the lateral fit at the time of wearing is moderate and the air permeability from the shirt opening and the stitches of the knitted fabric is high, it is possible to spend cooler than a woven shirt in midsummer. Therefore, according to the knit dress shirt of the present invention, the set temperature of the air conditioner can be set lower when worn, which can contribute to power saving. On the other hand, in the knit dress shirt of Comparative Example 2 formed so that the knitting direction of the knitted fabric is the vertical direction of the body part or the like, it can be seen that the lateral stretch is large and the silhouette feeling is greatly inferior.

  Moreover, when a mobile phone was put in the pocket of the knit dress shirt of Example 1, the shape retention of the pocket was good, and the aesthetics as a dress shirt were not impaired.

  The knitted dress shirt of the present invention can be suitably used particularly in a field related to clothing having form stability.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 100 Knitted dress shirt 10 Front body part 20 Rear body part 30 Sleeve part 40 Pocket part 50 Upper front part 51 Lower front part 60 Shoulder yoke part 70 Collar part 80 Cuff part

Claims (8)

A knit dress shirt comprising a knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers containing 50% by mass or more of cellulose fibers and having an English cotton count of 20 to 100,
The basis weight of the knitted fabric is 110 to 230 g / m ² , the course density is 35 to 65 / 2.54 cm, the wale density is 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm,
A knit dress shirt in which the course direction of the knitted fabric is formed to be the longitudinal direction of a front body part, a back body part, a sleeve part, a pocket part, an upper plait part, and a lower placket part.   The knit dress shirt according to claim 1, wherein the knitting structure of the knitted fabric is a Kanoko knitting or a smooth knitting.   The knit dress shirt according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulosic fibers are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent.   The knit dress shirt according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cellulosic fiber contains 100% by mass of cotton.   The knit dress shirt according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the side seam portion and the armhole portion do not include an interlining.   The knit dress shirt according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the lower placket does not include an interlining. The unsewn portion of the back side of the knitted fabric forming the pocket portion, the basis weight is fixed adhesive core is 20 to 100 g / m ^2, knit according to any one of claims 1 to 6 Dress shirt. It contains 50% by mass or more of cellulose fibers, is knitted with cellulosic fibers having an English cotton count of 20 to 100, the basis weight is 110 to 230 g / m ² , and the course density is 35 to 65 / 2.54 cm. And a step of applying a treatment for crosslinking the cellulosic fibers to a knitted fabric having a wale density of 25 to 65 / 2.54 cm, and the knitted fabric after the treatment, the course direction is the front body part, the rear A method for manufacturing a knitted dress shirt, comprising a step of sewing together a body part, a sleeve part, a pocket part, an upper plait part, and a lower placket part in a longitudinal direction.

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