JP6144476B2 - Lip cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a lip cosmetic, and more particularly to a lip cosmetic having a light and smooth feeling of use, a uniform cosmetic film, and good adhesion to the lips.

  Lip cosmetics represented by lipstick and lip gloss have a cosmetic effect of imparting color to the lips and finishing it in a gorgeous impression. In recent years, lip cosmetics are required to have various effects on the feeling of use in addition to imparting color, and studies have been made on waxes, oils, and powders that are constituents thereof. A technology related to lip cosmetics (patent document 1) excellent in glossiness and its sustainability, three-dimensionality, and stability over time by blending Fischer-Tropsch wax and multi-branched mono (di) glyceryl triisostearate, dimer acid Derivatives, cellulose derivatives, and liquid ester oils are used to provide a glossy, easy-to-use feel during application and a long-lasting cosmetic effect (Patent Document 2). Also, polyamide resins, branched alcohols and dihydric alcohols are used. And a technique (Patent Document 3) relating to skin moisturizing effect and makeup sustainability.

JP 2008-247804 A JP 2009-183266 A International Publication No. WO2008 / 143081

  However, the technology that improves the usability and high-temperature stability by combining Fischer-Tropsch wax with a specific wax, lacks a light and smooth feeling of use as the amount of wax increases, and incorporates a dimer linoleic acid derivative. As for the technology that produces the sustainability of the makeup effect, the makeup persistence effect can be obtained, but since the makeup film is thick, the spread of the film is heavy, creating a sense of burden, and a satisfactory one cannot be obtained. It was.

  An object of the present invention is to provide a lip cosmetic that spreads lightly and smoothly at the time of application, has excellent adhesion to the lips, and provides a uniform cosmetic film.

  Under such circumstances, the present inventor has conducted extensive research to solve the above problems, and as a result, in lip cosmetics, Fischer-Tropsch wax and dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) and It has been found that by using a combination of liquid higher alcohols at room temperature, it is possible to obtain a light and smooth feeling of use and adhesion that allows a uniform cosmetic film to adhere to the lips, thereby completing the present invention.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (A), (B) and (C);
(A) Fischer-Tropsch wax;
(B) Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl);
(C) a higher alcohol that is liquid at room temperature;
It is related with the lip cosmetics characterized by containing.

  The present invention relates to a lip cosmetic having a light and smooth feeling of use, a uniform cosmetic film, and excellent adhesion to the lips and durability of the cosmetic film.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (A) Fischer-Tropsch wax used in the lip cosmetic of the present invention is a synthetic hydrocarbon wax produced by the Fischer-Tropsch process. Although not particularly limited, it is preferable that the melting point of the component (A) is 70 to 120 ° C., since a feeling of use that collapses and a decorative film that develops color once applied can be obtained. Examples of commercially available products in this range include SASOLWAX C80, SASOLWAX H1 (manufactured by SASOL), CIREBELLE108, CIREBELLE109L, CIREBELLE303 (manufactured by CIREBELLE), and the like. The component (A) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably contained in an amount of 1 to 20% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), more preferably 3 to 15%. Within this range, satisfactory results can be obtained in terms of producing a smooth feeling of use and a feeling of burden.

  Component (B) dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) used in the present invention is mainly composed of dimer acid obtained by polymerizing 2 to 3 molecules of linoleic acid, phytosterol, and isostearyl alcohol. , An ester with a mixed alcohol consisting of cetanol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. In the present invention, a feeling of gloss and a feeling of burden is produced. Examples of commercially available products include PLANDOOL-S and PLANDOOL-H (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.), whose INCI names are dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl). The component (B) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1 to 30%, more preferably 1 to 20%. If it is this range, the thing satisfactory from the point of the uniformity of a decorative film and the feeling of a burden will be obtained.

  The higher alcohol that is liquid at room temperature (C) used in the present invention has fluidity at room temperature (about 25 ° C.), and examples thereof include 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol. And those having 16 to 20 carbon atoms are preferred. The component (C) in the present invention can produce lightness of spreading. Examples of commercially available products include euthanol G (manufactured by Nagase Sangyo Co., Ltd.) whose INCI name is octyldodecanol. In the present invention, the component (C) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.1 to 5%. If it is in this range, a satisfactory product can be obtained in terms of lightness of expansion during use.

  Further, the present invention contains an ester of component (D) isostearic acid and diglyceryl, so that the uniformity of the cosmetic film and the makeup persistence are excellent. Examples of the component (D) include diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, and diglyceryl tetraisostearate. These commercially available products include Cosmol 42V, Cosmol 43V, and Cosmol 44V (manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.). Among these, tetraglyceryl tetraisostearate, which is a tetraester, is preferably used in terms of the uniformity of the decorative film. Although it does not specifically limit, It is preferable that a component (D) is contained 5 to 40% in the lip cosmetics of this invention.

In addition, the lip cosmetic of the present invention contains an organic powder as the component (E), so that the cosmetic easily breaks down on the lips when applied, the smoothness of use is produced, and the film is uniformly applied. It becomes easy. These organic powders having a particle size of 30 μm or less are easy to exert the effect, and more preferably 10 μm. The effect is more easily exhibited when the shape is spherical or irregular. Although not particularly limited, the material is polyamide resin, polyethylene terephthalate, silicone resin, polyalkyl acrylate resin, etc., and commercially available products are nylon-12 orgasol 2002D (substantially spherical shape, average particle 18-25 μm, Atofina Japan)), Tospearl 150KA (substantially spherical shape, average particle size 3.5-6.5 μm, manufactured by Momentive Performance Materials Japan), which is a substantially spherical silicone resin, and amorphous polyethylene terephthalate powder. Snowleaf P (average particle diameter 7 μm, manufactured by Oken Co., Ltd.) and the like can be mentioned. In the present invention, the component (E) is preferably contained in an amount of 1 to 20%, more preferably 5 to 15%.

  In addition to the essential components (A) to (E) described above, the lip cosmetic of the present invention is a component usually used in cosmetics, an oily component, a powder, a surfactant, a fiber, an aqueous component, and an ultraviolet absorber. , Anti-fading agents, antioxidants, antifoaming agents, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, fragrances, and the like can be contained within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention.

  The oily component may be any of solid oils such as animal oils, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, semi-solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils and the like that are generally used in cosmetics other than the components (A) to (C). And hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents and the like. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, paraffin wax, montan wax, polyisobutylene, polybutene, ceresin wax, ozokerite wax, owl, olive oil, castor oil Oils such as mink oil and macadamian nut oil, waxes such as beeswax, gay wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tribehenate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate , Isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fat Esters such as esters, phytosterol fatty acid esters, triglycerides, diisostearyl malate, tridecyl trimellate, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenyl Polysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, high polymerization degree methylphenyl polysiloxane, cross-linked polyether modified methylpolysiloxane, oleyl modified organopolysiloxane, behenyl modified organopolysiloxane, high Degree of polymerization: Silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane, alkoxy-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, perfluorodecane, Fluorine oils such as fluorooctane and perfluoropolyether, lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin alcohol, sucrose fatty acid ester, dextrin fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, aluminum isostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid Examples thereof include oily gelling agents such as acids, and one or more of them can be used.

  As the powder, as long as it is a powder generally used in cosmetics, it has a spherical shape, a plate shape, a needle shape, a fume shape, a fine particle, a pigment class particle size, a porous shape, no It is not particularly limited by the particle structure such as the porosity, and examples thereof include inorganic powders, glitter powders, pigment powders, metal powders, and composite powders. Specifically, white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, barium sulfate, iron oxide, carbon black, titanium / titanium oxide sintered product, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen, ultramarine blue, etc. Colored inorganic pigments, talc, muscovite, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite (sericite), synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, silicic anhydride, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide White body powders such as zirconium oxide, antimony oxide, diatomaceous earth, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, Titanium oxide coated mica, titanium oxide synthetic phlogopite, titanium oxide Bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide mica titanium, bituminized mica titanium, carmine-treated mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, red 201, red 202, red 205, red 226, red 228, orange 203 , Orange 204, blue 404, yellow 401, etc., red 3, red 104, red 106, orange 205, yellow 4, yellow 5, green 3, blue 1, etc. zirconium, Organic pigment powder such as barium or aluminum lake or metal powder such as aluminum powder, gold powder, silver powder, fine particle titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine particle zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium oxide containing silicon dioxide, Examples include composite powders such as zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and one or more of these powders can be used. It may be further used as complexed.

  As the surfactant, any surfactant generally used in cosmetics can be used. Nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, etc. Is mentioned. For example, glycerin fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, sorbitol fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester and the like, and alkylene glycol adducts thereof, polyoxyalkylene alkyl co-modified silicone, polyether-modified silicone Nonionic surfactants such as fatty acids and their salts such as stearic acid and lauric acid, anionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates and polyoxyethylene alkyl ether phosphates, alkylamine salts, polyamines and alkanols Both amine fatty acid derivatives, cationic surfactants such as alkyl quaternary ammonium salts, amino acid types, sulfate ester types, sulfonic acid types, phosphate ester types, lecithin, etc. Surfactants.

As the aqueous component, any component that is soluble in water may be used. Besides water, for example, glycols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin. Glycerols such as polyglycerol, plant extracts such as aloe vera, lavender, rose, sodium hyaluronate, gum arabic, sodium alginate, carrageenan, celluloses, carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-added carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium polyacrylate, etc. It can also contain other humectants such as water-soluble polymers, proteins, mucopolysaccharides, collagen, elastin, keratin.
Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone, PABA, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, and the like.
Examples of antioxidants include α-tocopherol and ascorbic acid, examples of cosmetic ingredients include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, herbal medicines, and examples of preservatives include paraoxybenzoic acid ester, phenoxyethanol, and 1,2-pentadiol. It is done.

  Examples of the lip cosmetic of the present invention include lipsticks, lip glosses, lipstick base coats, lipstick overcoats, lip balms, and lip treatments, with lipsticks and lip glosses being particularly preferred.

  The lip cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to a water-in-oil type having a wax and an oil agent as a main component and an outer layer as a continuous phase of the oil agent, but the oil component that is an oil agent or an oil-soluble compound is a continuous phase. An oily substance containing substantially 1% of water and having a water content of 1% or less is preferred. The shape is most preferably a solid or even a stick.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.

Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4: Oily solid lipstick Oily solid lipsticks having the composition shown in Table 1 were produced by the following production method. The obtained oily solid lipstick was subjected to the following method (a) light feeling, (b) smooth spreading, (c) adhesion, (d) film uniformity, (e) makeup film persistence. Sexuality was evaluated. The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1: CIREBELLE 109L (melting point: 91-96 ° C, manufactured by CIREBELLE)
* 2: PLANDOOL-S (manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.)
* 3: Euthanol G (BASF)
* 4: Snow Reef P (Oken)
* 5: Olgasol 2002D (manufactured by Atofina Japan)
* 6: Timilon Super Red (Merck) 5% methylpolysiloxane treatment

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (11) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C to 110 ° C.
B: Components (12) to (19) are added to A and mixed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 90 ° C. and directly poured into a container, and after cooling, an oily solid lipstick was obtained.

(Evaluation method)
About the item of the following evaluation items (a)-(e), the use test by 20 expert panels was done about each sample. Each panel person applied each sample to the lips, scored according to the following absolute evaluation criteria, calculated the total score of all the panels, and judged according to the following floor criteria.
Evaluation items (a), (b), (c), and (d) were evaluated immediately after application, and evaluation item (e) was applied after the sample was applied to the lips and the panel had a normal life. Assessed after hours.

<Evaluation items>
(A) Light feeling (b) Smooth spread (c) Adhesion (d) Uniformity of the film (e) Persistence of the decorative film <Absolute evaluation criteria>
(Score): (Evaluation)
4 points: Very good 3 points: Good 2 points: Slightly bad 1 point: Bad <Criteria>
(Judgment): (Total score)
AA: 70 points or more A: 60 to 69 points B: 50 to 59 points C: 40 to 49 points D: 30 to 39 points E: 29 points or less In the present invention, it is determined that determination of B or more is suitable. .

  As is clear from Table 1, Examples 1 to 13 of the present invention are excellent in light use feeling, smooth stretch and spread, adhesion, film uniformity, makeup film durability, and all evaluation items. Met. Among them, Example 11 containing diglyceryl tetraisostearate as component (D) and Examples 12 and 13 containing organic powder were particularly excellent. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, which did not contain the component (A) Fischer-Tropsch wax, the lipstick became hard, a smooth feeling of use was not obtained, and the effects were not sufficient in other evaluation items. In Comparative Example 3 containing heavy liquid isoparaffin instead of component (B), the feeling of use was heavy and sticky, and Comparative Example containing solid cetyl alcohol at room temperature instead of component (C) In No. 4, the lipstick became hard, the feeling of use was heavy, and the smoothness was poor.

Reference Example 1 : Oil-based stick lip gloss (component) (%)
1. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 7 4
2. (Ethylene / propylene) copolymer (melting point 90-99 ° C.) 3
3. Microcrystalline wax (melting point 76-82 ° C) 2
4. Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 10
5). Polybutene (viscosity at 98.9 ° C., 4600 mm ² / s) 10
6). Heavy liquid isoparaffin (viscosity at 98.9 ° C., 800 mm ² / s) 5
7). Lauroyl glutamate (octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl)
5
8). Hexa (hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid)
Dipentaerythrityl 5
9. Methylphenylpolysiloxane 5
10. Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl
/ Cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) * 2 5
11. Diglyceryl tetraisostearate 10
12 13. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining amount Diisostearyl malate 10
14 Octild decanol 1
15.2,6-di-tert-butyl-paracresol 0.1
16. Silicic anhydride 1
17. Red No. 202 0.05
18. Titanium oxide coated borosilicate (Ca / Al) * 8 5
19. Polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder * 9 1
20. Mica titanium * 10 5
21. Tocopherol acetate 0.1
22. Fragrance 0.1
* 7: CIREBELLE108 (melting point 79-84 ° C, manufactured by CIREBELLE)
* 8: Metashine 1080RC-Y (Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.)
* 9: Aluminum flake silver 0.15 mm (manufactured by Kakuhachi Fish Foil Co., Ltd.)
* 10: TIMICA EXTRA BRIGHT 1500 (manufactured by BASF)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (14) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (15) to (22) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 90 ° C. and directly poured into a lipstick container, and after cooling, lip gloss was obtained.
The lip gloss of Reference Example 1 was satisfactory in all of the points of light usability, smooth expansion and spread, good adhesion, and film uniformity.

Reference Example 2 : Oil pan lip gloss (component) (%)
1. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 1 1
2. (Ethylene / propylene) copolymer (melting point 90-99 ° C.) 4
3. Microcrystalline wax (melting point 76-82 ° C) 3
4. Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 10
5). Dextrin palmitate * 11 0.5
6). Heavy liquid isoparaffin (viscosity at 98.9 ° C., 4700 mm ² / s) 1
7). Lauroyl glutamate di (octyldodecyl /
Phytosteryl / behenyl) 15
8). Dimethylpolysiloxane 5
9. Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl
/ Cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) * 12 35
10. 10. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining amount Diisostearyl malate 5
12 Octyldodecanol * 3 2
13. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
14 Zinc oxide 1
15. Nylon powder * 5 5
16. Water repellent and oil repellent Bengala coated mica titanium * 13 5
17. Rosemary extract 0.1
18. Purified water 0.1
* 11: Leopard KL (Chiba Flour Mills)
* 12: PLANDOOL-H (Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.)
* 13: Treatment with Cloisonol Rouge Flambe (BASF) 2% perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine (manufacturing method)
A: Components (1) to (12) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (13) to (18) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 90 ° C. and poured into a metal pan. After cooling, lipstick was obtained.
The lip gloss of Reference Example 2 was excellent in terms of light usability, smooth spread, adhesion, film uniformity, cosmetic film durability, and all evaluation items.

Reference Example 3 : Oily solid lip balm (component) (%)
1. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 7 5
2. Microcrystalline wax (melting point 76-82 ° C) 7
3. Liquid paraffin 10
4). Hexa (hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid)
Dipentaerythrityl 5
5). Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl
/ Cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) * 2 5
6). Diglyceryl tetraisostearate 10
7). 7. Diglyceryl triisostearate 8 Isostearyl alcohol 2
9. Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.1
10. Zinc oxide 1
11. Bengala 0.1
12 Methyl methacrylate cross polymer powder * 14 10
13. Natural vitamin E 0.1
14 Arnica extract 0.1
* 14: Matsumoto Microsphere M-305 (average particle size 8 μm, manufactured by Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (8) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (9) to (14) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 90 ° C. and poured into a lipstick container, and after cooling, a lip balm was obtained.
The lip balm of Reference Example 3 was satisfactory in all points of light use feeling, smooth elongation and spread, good adhesion, and film uniformity.

Reference Example 4 : W / O stick lipstick (component) (%)
1. Fischer-Tropsch wax * 7 5
2. (Ethylene / propylene) copolymer (melting point 90-99 ° C.) 1
3. Microcrystalline wax (melting point 84 ° C) 4
4. Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 10
5). Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid 2
6). Heavy liquid isoparaffin * 15 2
7). Lauroyl glutamate di (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) 5
8). Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5
9. Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl
/ Cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) * 2 10
10. Acetic acid liquid lanolin 10
11. 11. Diglyceryl triisostearate remaining amount Octild decanol * 3 3
13. Purified water 10
14.1.3-Butylene glycol 1
15. Glycerin 4
16. Lecithin-treated talc 2
17. Methyl methacrylate cross polymer powder * 14 10
18. Polyethylene terephthalate powder * 4 10
19. Titanium oxide coated borosilicate (Ca / Al) * 8 1
20. Red No. 226 1
21. Titanium oxide 1
22. Black iron oxide 0.1
23. Mica titanium 0.1
24. Honey 0.1
(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (12) are uniformly dissolved at 100 to 110 ° C.
B: Components (13) to (24) are added to A and mixed and dispersed uniformly.
C: After defoaming B, it was heated to 90 ° C. and directly poured into a lipstick container, and after cooling, a stick-like lipstick was obtained.
The stick-like lipstick of Reference Example 4 was excellent in light evaluation, smooth spreading, adhesion, film uniformity, makeup film durability, and all evaluation items.

Claims (8)

The following components (A), (B), and (C);
(A) Fischer-Tropsch wax;
(B) Dimer linoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl);
(C) a higher alcohol that is liquid at room temperature;
Lip cosmetics ( except for those containing microcrystalline wax ).   The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising an ester of component (D) isostearic acid and diglyceryl.   The lip cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising an organic powder (E).   The lip cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the component (D) is diglyceryl tetraisostearate.   The lip cosmetic according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the component (E) is a spherical or amorphous organic powder having a particle size of 1 to 50 µm.   The lip cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising 1 to 20% by mass of the component (A).   The said lip cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the component (B) is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by mass. The component (C) lip cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains 0.01 to 10 mass%.