JP6160486B2 - Fabric using flat multilobal cross-section fibers - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric that is lightweight and thin and has high strength, low air permeability, and excellent gloss. More specifically, the present invention relates to a woven fabric made of a flat multi-lobed cross-section polyamide fiber having a fineness and having a light weight, low strength, high strength, low air permeability and excellent gloss.

  As represented by the recent outdoor boom, consumers are becoming increasingly leisure-oriented. In particular, the demand for sports apparel is increasing year by year with the spread of outdoor sports, and there is an increasing demand for material uses such as tents, sleeping bags and canvas, and for weight reduction and thinning of apparel. . High-strength is required for fabrics for sports apparel, and in particular, improvement in tear strength and wear strength is required. In particular, when film processing such as laminating is performed, since the yarn does not easily slip, the tear strength tends to be lowered, and the improvement of the tear strength of the base fabric is desired more and more.

  Up to now, for the purpose of weight reduction and thinning for downwear and sports materials, etc., because of its excellent mechanical properties, polyester multifilaments, nylon multifilaments, or woven fabrics composed of these composite synthetic fibers, Many have been used in textiles. These woven fabrics are soft and lightweight, and are excellent in wind resistance, water repellency, fastness, and the like, and thus are frequently used for coats, blousons, golf wear, sports outdoor wear, and the like.

  As an example to solve the problems of high strength, light weight and thinning, Patent Document 1 discloses a woven fabric composed of synthetic multifilaments, and the woven fabric is synthesized by calendering at least on one side. At least a part of the multifilament is compressed in a state where the monofilament is overlapped, the monofilament has a Y shape or a cross-sectional shape, and the fineness of the synthetic multifilament is 7 dtex to 44 dtex, A fabric characterized by a cover factor of 1300-2200 is disclosed.

JP 2010-196213 A

  However, the woven fabric obtained by the method described in Patent Document 1 has a gloss that has a glare and a streak due to the reflected light, and is insufficient in terms of design properties such as glossiness in products as well as functionality. Met. As described above, even in a woven fabric satisfying the required characteristics of high strength, light weight and thinning in the prior art, glossiness is not sufficiently considered, and an elegant and elegant woven fabric is obtained. I couldn't. Further, in the prior art, when the fabric is repeatedly washed, the air permeability is greatly reduced. For example, when the fabric is used as a shell for a down jacket, sufficient function sustainability such as occurrence of falling out cannot be obtained.

  The present invention solves such problems of the prior art, and further, is a lightweight suitable for use in sportswear represented by down jackets, windbreakers, golf wear and rainwear, casual wear and ladies' men's clothing. PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a fabric that is thin and has high strength, low air permeability and excellent gloss, a sewn product using at least part of the fabric, and a down shell and down jacket using at least part of the fabric. Is an issue.

In order to achieve the above object, the fabric of the present invention mainly has the following configuration. That is,
(1) A woven fabric that is calendered on one or both sides, and the polyamide fibers constituting the warp and / or the weft of the woven fabric after calendering have a single fiber fineness of 0.5 to 2.5 dtex, and a total fineness 5 to 50 dtex, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a flat multilobal shape having 8 to 10 leaf portions, and the longest line segment connecting any two points among the convex vertices of the flat multilobal shape Is a line segment A (the length is α) and a circumscribed quadrangle composed of a tangent line that is parallel to the line segment A and includes the outermost vertex (the angle of an angle formed by adjacent sides is The flatness (W) (α / β) represented by the other line segment B (90 °) is 1.5 to 3.0, and the cover factor is 1200 to A woven fabric characterized by being 2500.

(2) The polyamide fiber used for the fabric before calendering has a single fiber fineness of 0.4 to 2.2 dtex and a total fineness of 4 to 44 dtex, and the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a flat multi-leaf shape with 8 to 10 leaves The length of the longest line segment A connecting any two points of the flat multilobed convex vertices is a, and the line is parallel to the line segment A and is a tangent line including the outermost vertex. The other line segment B length of the circumscribed square (the angle formed by the adjacent sides is 90 °) is b, and is the largest unevenness among the unevenness formed by the flat multilobal shape. Let c be the length of the line segment C connecting the vertices of the portions, and let d be the length of the perpendicular line D drawn from the bottom of the concave portion sandwiched between the convex portions to the line segment C connecting the vertices of the convex portions. The woven fabric according to the above (1), wherein a polyamide fiber that simultaneously satisfies the following formula is used.
Flatness (F) (a / b) = 1.5 to 3.0
・ Deformation degree (F) (c / d) = 1.0 to 8.0

(4) The woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the air permeability after 50 washings is 1.0 cc / cm ² / s or less.

(5) The fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (4), wherein the difference between the initial air permeability and the air permeability after 50 washings is 0.4 cc / cm ² / s or less.

  (6) A sewing product using at least a part of the fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) above.

(7) A down shell or down jacket using at least a part of the woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) above.
It is.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric that is light and thin, has high strength, low air permeability, and excellent gloss without glare or streaking. Furthermore, a woven fabric that can be suitably used for side clothing such as down jackets, windbreakers, sportswear such as golf wear and rainwear, casual wear, and ladies' men's clothing can be obtained. Moreover, according to this invention, the sewing product which used the fabric of this invention for a part is obtained. Furthermore, a down shell and a down jacket using part of the fabric of the present invention can be obtained.

FIG. 1 is a drawing-substitute SEM photograph of a side cross-section of a fabric illustrating the fabric of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing a schematic example of the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber constituting the fabric of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing the spinneret discharge hole shape used in the examples of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing the spinneret discharge hole shape used in the comparative example. FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional side view of a Y-section fiber fabric obtained in a comparative example.

  The polyamide constituting the woven fabric of the present invention is a polymer in which a so-called hydrocarbon group is connected to the main chain through an amide bond. Polycaprolactam (nylon 6), polyhexamethylene adipamide (nylon 66), polyhexa Methylene sebacamide (nylon 6,10), polytetramethylene adipamide (nylon 4,6) polypentamethylene adipamide (nylon 5,6), 1,4-cyclohexanebis (methylamine) and linear fat And a polycondensation type polyamide with an aromatic dicarboxylic acid, and a copolymer or a mixture thereof. Nylon 6 and nylon 66 are preferable from the viewpoint of dyeability and color developability, and nylon 6 is more preferable.

  The degree of polymerization of the polyamide may be appropriately set depending on the required properties of the fabric, but is preferably 2 or more, more preferably 3 or more in terms of 98% sulfuric acid relative viscosity. By setting the 98% sulfuric acid relative viscosity to 3 or more, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber during spinning is a flat multileaf shape with 6 to 10 leaves, and the flatness and the irregularity are controlled within a specific range to stably spin. Can be obtained. Of these, the 98% sulfuric acid relative viscosity is more preferably 3.3 or more. The upper limit of 98% sulfuric acid relative viscosity is preferably 7 or less from the viewpoint of spinnability.

  In addition, if the amount and type are within the range not impairing the object of the present invention, additives for improving productivity such as heat resistance (light stabilizer, heat stabilizer, antioxidant, antistatic agent, end group adjustment) And additives for imparting functionality (such as UV absorbers, UV shielding agents, contact cooling agents, and antibacterial agents) may be added. However, the average particle size of the additive is preferably 1 μm or less because the spinning property and durability are deteriorated, and the addition of inorganic particles including the white pigment is not limited. The amount is preferably 2.0% by mass or less, and more preferably 1.0% by mass or less.

  Next, the calendered polyamide fiber constituting the fabric of the present invention will be described in more detail.

The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the polyamide fiber after calendering constituting the woven fabric of the present invention is a flat multi-leaf shape having 8 to 10 leaf portions, and the flatness (W) is 1.5 to 3.0. It is necessary to have.

  FIG. 1 is a SEM photograph (600 times magnification) of a fabric side cross-section illustrating a fabric of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, the polyamide monofilaments (for example, 1 to 3) located on the surface of the fabric after calendering are in a smooth state. Therefore, in determining the flatness (W), a polyamide single fiber (for example, 4 to 6) that is not located on the surface of the fabric was used as a single fiber of a polyamide fiber after calendering. In addition, for the flatness, arbitrary five polyamide single fibers not located on the surface of the fabric were selected, and the average value of the measured values was used.

  The flatness (W) referred to here is the longest line segment connecting any two points of the vertices of the flat multilobal convex portions, as in the outline example of the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber shown in FIG. (The length is assumed to be α), and a circumscribed quadrangle composed of a tangent line parallel to the line segment and including the outermost vertex (the angle of the angle composed of adjacent sides is 90 °) Α / β is defined as flatness when other line segments (the length is β). By setting the flatness (W) (α / β) to 1.5 to 3.0, in the woven fabric to be produced, the single fibers can overlap with each other with less voids, and air permeability can be reduced. In addition, when the flatness is in this range, it is possible to simultaneously exhibit excellent gloss and sufficient strength to withstand practical use. When the flatness is less than 1.5, the surface area decreases and sufficient glossiness cannot be expressed. When the flatness exceeds 3.0, the anisotropy of the polymer is increased to give a lustrous gloss, and furthermore, a sufficient strength that can withstand practical use cannot be obtained. The flatness is preferably 1.5 to 2.8.

  In addition, the number of leaf parts referred to here is a value obtained by dividing the number of inflection points in the fiber cross section by two. That is, in the multi-leaf section, the convex portions constituting the normal leaf portion and the concave portions sandwiched between the leaf portions alternately exist, and each has an inflection point. Therefore, the number of the inflection points is divided by two. By doing so, the number of leaves can be counted. As shown in FIG. 1, the polyamide single fibers (for example, 1 to 3) located on the surface of the fabric after calendering are in a smooth state. For this reason, when determining the number of the leaf portions, polyamide single fibers (for example, 4 to 6) that are not located on the surface of the fabric were used as the single fibers of the polyamide fibers after calendering.

  For the number of leaves, an average value of measured values was selected from arbitrarily selected polyamide single fibers that are not located on the fabric surface. By having 6 to 10 leaf portions, a good gloss feeling can be obtained. In particular, when 6 to 8 leaves are present, it is preferable to express an elegant luster, and when 8 leaves are present, it is possible to express a high-grade luster. When the number of leaves is less than 6, there is glare and an artificial luster that looks like streaks. When the number of leaf parts exceeds 10, light is scattered and the gloss becomes blurred, and sufficient gloss cannot be obtained.

  By setting the flatness (W) and the number of leaf portions in such a range, it is easy to restrain the movement of single fibers, and by compressing and fixing by calendering, the irregularities of the single fibers overlap and there are few voids. The overlapping air permeability suppression effect increases in the state, and the air permeability can be reduced. For example, in the Y cross section or cross section, there are portions where the concave portions and convex portions overlap and the misalignment is suppressed depending on the direction in which the single fibers overlap, but the concave portions and concave portions overlap depending on the direction in which the single fibers overlap. A portion (region X) where misalignment is likely to occur is also formed accordingly, and as a result, the air permeability increases or misalignment occurs (FIG. 5). Moreover, since the woven fabric of the present invention has moderate irregularities in the single fiber cross section, the surface of the woven fabric is likely to be uniformly smooth by calendering, and good gloss can be obtained.

  The single fiber fineness of the polyamide fiber after calendering constituting the woven fabric of the present invention needs to be 0.5 to 2.5 dtex. By setting the single fiber fineness to such a range, a woven fabric having sufficient strength and low air permeability that can withstand practical use can be obtained. When the single fiber fineness is less than 0.5 dtex, sufficient strength to withstand practical use cannot be obtained, and when it exceeds 2.5 dtex, low air permeability cannot be obtained. The single fiber fineness is preferably 0.5 to 2.0 dtex.

  Moreover, the total fineness needs to be 5-50 dtex from the viewpoint of the lightweight property of the textile fabric used as a down wear or a sports material. By setting the total fineness within such a range, a woven fabric having sufficient strength to withstand practical use can be obtained with a light and thin ground. When the total fineness is less than 5 dtex, a woven fabric having sufficient strength to withstand practical use cannot be obtained, and when the total fineness exceeds 50 dtex, a lightweight thin fabric cannot be obtained. The total fineness is preferably 5 to 45 dtex, and more preferably 5 to 35 dtex.

  The total fineness said here was measured as follows. That is, two lines are drawn at 100 cm intervals in the warp or weft direction in the state of the fabric, the fabric is decomposed into warp or weft yarns, a load of 1/10 g / dtex is applied to the decomposed yarn, and the length between the two points (Lcm) was measured. The yarn was cut between two points (L), the weight (Wg) was measured, and the fineness was calculated by the following equation.

-Total fineness (woven fabric yarn) = W / L x 1000000 (dtex)
The single fiber fineness is a value obtained by dividing the total fineness by the number of filaments.

  Next, the polyamide fiber used for the woven fabric before calendering constituting the woven fabric of the present invention will be described in more detail.

  The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the polyamide fiber used in the woven fabric before calendering constituting the woven fabric of the present invention is a flat multilobal shape of 6 to 10 leaves, and flatness (F) (a / b) = 1.5 It is preferable that it is -3.0 and a degree of profile (F) (c / d) = 1.0-8.0. Furthermore, when the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is 6 to 10 leaves, it becomes easy to obtain a good gloss feeling. In particular, the range of 6 to 8 leaves in the cross-sectional shape is more preferable because it expresses elegant luster, and the flat multi-leaf shape of 8 leaves is the most preferable aspect because it expresses high gloss.

  The flatness (F) and irregularity (F) referred to here are arbitrary two points out of the convex vertices of the flat multilobal shape as shown in the schematic example of the cross section of the single fiber shown in FIG. The length of the longest line segment A to be connected is a, and the other line segment is a circumscribed quadrangle formed by the line and the tangent line including the outermost vertex (the angle of the angle formed by the adjacent sides is 90 °). The length B is b, the largest unevenness of the flat multilobal shape, the length of the line segment C connecting the vertices of adjacent convex portions is c, and from the bottom of the concave portion sandwiched between the convex portions When d is the length of a perpendicular line D drawn to a line segment C connecting the vertices of the convex portions, a / b is defined as flatness and c / d is defined as irregularity. For the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the yarn, arbitrarily select five single yarns from a cross-sectional photograph (400 times) using an optical microscope, calculate a / b, c / d, and calculate the average value. Flatness (F) and irregularity (F).

  By setting the flatness (F) (a / b) to 1.5 to 3.0, in the woven fabric to be produced, the single fibers overlap with each other with few voids, and air permeability can be reduced. In addition, when the flatness is in this range, it is possible to simultaneously exhibit excellent gloss and sufficient strength to withstand practical use. The flatness is preferably 1.5 to 2.8.

  The degree of deformity (F) (c / d) represents the size of the concave portion between the leaves in the flat multilobal shape. When the degree of deformity (F) increases, the concave portion becomes shallower, If F) is small, it means that the recess is deep. In order to keep the gaps between the single fibers at the time of woven fabric formation small and to improve the low air permeability effect, it is preferable that the degree of profile (F) is 8.0 or less.

  On the other hand, in order to maintain the strength of the polyamide that forms the single fiber, the degree of profile (F) is preferably 1.0 or more. From the viewpoint of glossiness and texture, a more preferable variant (F) is 2 to 7.

  By using a flat multi-leaf cross-sectional yarn having a flatness (F) and a deformity (F) in such a range in advance, the movement of the single fiber can be easily restrained, and the single fiber can be compressed and fixed by calendering. While the concaves and convexes overlap with each other, the air permeability can be suppressed by increasing the air permeability suppression effect in a state where there are few voids. Furthermore, because the single fiber cross section is multi-leafed, the irregularity of the single fibers always bites the fabric regardless of the direction in which the single fibers overlap. Demonstrate. Furthermore, since the cross section of the single fiber has moderate irregularities, the surface of the fabric is likely to be uniformly smooth by calendering, and it becomes easy to obtain a good gloss feeling.

  It is preferable that the single fiber fineness of the polyamide fiber used for the fabric before calendering constituting the fabric of the present invention is 0.4 to 2.2 dtex. When the single fiber fineness is less than 0.4 dtex, it is too thin to obtain a sufficient strength to withstand practical use. Moreover, when the single fiber fineness exceeds 2.2 dtex, it is difficult to obtain low air permeability. The single fiber fineness is more preferably 0.4 to 1.8 dtex.

  Moreover, it is preferable that the total fineness is 4-44 dtex from a lightweight viewpoint of the fabric at the time of using as a down wear or a sports material. When the total fineness is less than 4 dtex, it is difficult to obtain a woven fabric having sufficient strength to withstand practical use. When the total fineness exceeds 44 dtex, it is difficult to obtain a lightweight thin fabric. The total fineness is more preferably 4 to 40 dtex, and more preferably 4 to 31 dtex.

  The woven fabric of the present invention uses the above-described flat multi-lobed cross-section polyamide fiber for warp and / or weft. Moreover, the fiber form can use what is manufactured by the well-known method similar to general synthetic fibers, such as a processed yarn and a twisted yarn.

  The woven fabric is manufactured by a known method (weaving and dyeing) similar to general synthetic fibers. Next, a preferable manufacturing method is illustrated.

  In the weaving process, a warp loom beam is first created. That is, after creating a warping beam with an Aramaki warping machine, if sizing is necessary, the size is glued via a sizer, and a loom beam of the required number of yarns is created using a beamer. If sizing is not necessary, the loom beam may be created directly from the warping beam with a beamer. It is also possible to create a loom beam after creating a sizing beam directly using a warper sizer. Subsequently, the loom beam is laid and drawn on the loom, and the weft is driven to weave.

  There are various types of looms such as a water jet loom, an air jet loom, a rapier loom, and a gripper loom, and any loom may be used. The woven structure may be a plain structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, a change structure thereof, or a mixed structure thereof depending on the use of the woven fabric. A plain structure with a large amount is preferred. Further, in down proof fabrics, outdoor fabrics, windbreaker fabrics, etc., when it is necessary to increase the tearing strength, a structure constituting a lattice pattern is preferable, and a lip stop structure having a lip stop portion is preferable. .

The fabric of the present invention needs to have a cover factor (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as CF) of 1200 to 2500. By setting the CF in such a range, a lightweight and thin fabric with low air permeability can be obtained. When CF is less than 1200, a lightweight thin fabric can be obtained, but it is difficult to satisfy the low air permeability. Moreover, when CF exceeds 2500, although low air permeability is obtained, a lightweight thin fabric is difficult to obtain. The cover factor (CF) here is calculated by the following equation.
CF = T × (DT) ^1/2 + W × (DW) ^1/2
In the formula, T and W represent the warp density and weft density (2.54 cm / line) of the woven fabric, and DT and DW represent the total fineness (dtex) of the warp and the weft yarn constituting the woven fabric.

  In the dyeing process, scouring, pre-setting, dyeing and finishing are performed. For dyeing, acid dyes and metal-containing dyes used for polyamide fibers can be preferably used. And after dyeing, you may give the functional process for the purpose of function provision. In the process of applying the functional agent, the functional agent is applied by an immersion method (padding method) or the like, and then dried and cured. For example, for down proof use, outdoor use and wind breaker, calendar processing and water repellent treatment are applied as functions, and water repellent treatments such as organic fluorine compounds, silicones and paraffins are used as the water repellent. An agent can be used.

  The woven fabric of the present invention needs to be calendered on one side or both sides. For calendar processing, an ordinary calendar processing machine is used, and recently, a thermal calendar processing method is generally used. A woven fabric having a desired value of air permeability can be obtained by appropriately selecting the heat shrinkage ratio of the fiber, the green density, and the processing conditions such as the heating temperature, the pressing pressure, and the processing time in heating and pressing. Although these conditions are related to each other, in consideration of the heat shrinkage rate of the fiber, the heating roll temperature is normally 130 ° C. or more and 210 ° C. or less, the heating roll load is 98 kN or more and 149 kN or less, and the cloth traveling speed is 10 to 30 m / min. What is necessary is just to set suitably.

  The tear strength of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 5.0 N or more, more preferably 6.0 N or more. The direction of tear strength here refers to the tear strength in the warp direction when polyamide fibers with a flat multilobal cross section are used as warp yarns, and when polyamide fiber with a flat multilobal cross section is used as the weft yarn, Refers to tear strength in the direction. Further, when flat multilobed polyamide fiber is used for warp and weft, it indicates the tearing strength in the vertical and horizontal directions. By setting the tear strength to 5.0 N or more, a woven fabric having sufficient strength to withstand practical use can be obtained. The tear strength is preferably 40N or less, and more preferably 30N or less, in that a lightweight, thin fabric and a high-strength fabric can be obtained.

The air permeability (sometimes referred to as initial air permeability) of the fabric of the present invention is preferably 1.0 cc / cm ² / s or less, more preferably 0.8 cc / cm ² / s or less. By setting the air permeability to 1.0 cc / cm ² / s or less, a woven fabric excellent in low air permeability can be obtained. When used in side areas such as downwear, down jackets, and sportswear, the air permeability is 0.3 cc / cm ² / in order to obtain moderate low air permeability that facilitates deformation of swells and dents due to the entry and exit of air. It is desirable to set it as s or more.

Further, the air permeability of the fabric of the present invention after 50 washings is preferably 1.0 cc / cm ² / s or less, more preferably 0.9 cc / cm ² / s or less. If the air permeability after 50 washings is 1.0 cc / cm ² / s or less, the fabric does not fall out during washing, and the fabric does not fall out due to misalignment after washing, and has excellent down-proofing properties. A woven fabric is obtained. On the other hand, if the air permeability after 50 washings exceeds 1.0 cc / cm ² / s, it is easy for a drop-out to occur, and the fabric surface appears uneven due to misalignment of the fabric, causing the quality of the down jacket or the like to be greatly reduced. Can be.

  The woven fabric of the present invention uses a flat multi-leaf cross-sectional yarn having a flatness (F) and a deformity (F) in the above-mentioned range in advance, thereby making it easier to restrain the movement of single fibers and being compressed and fixed by calendering. As a result, the irregularities of the single fibers overlap each other, and the overlapping air permeability suppression effect increases in a state where there are few voids, and the air permeability can be suppressed. Furthermore, because the single fiber cross section is multi-leafed, the irregularity of the single fibers always bites the fabric regardless of the direction in which the single fibers overlap. Demonstrate. For example, in a Y cross-section fiber or a cross-section fiber, depending on the direction in which the single fibers overlap, the recesses and the recesses overlap to form a portion where misalignment is likely to occur, resulting in increased air permeability or misalignment (see FIG. 5).

Furthermore, in the woven fabric of the present invention, the difference between the initial air permeability and the air permeability after 50 washings is preferably 0.4 cc / cm ² / s or less. The woven fabric of the present invention uses a flat multi-leaf cross-sectional yarn having the flatness (F) and profile (F) in the above-mentioned range, and maintains a low air permeability after washing by making a CF fabric in the above-mentioned range. It is possible, and due to the effect of suppressing misalignment due to the unevenness between the single fibers, it is possible to maintain a highly glossy and uniform surface of the woven fabric and to maintain the quality of the down jacket and the like.

  The woven fabric of the present invention is lightweight and thin, and a woven fabric having high strength, low air permeability, and excellent gloss without glare or streaking can be obtained. Furthermore, a woven fabric that can be suitably used for a side jacket such as a down jacket, a windbreaker, sports such as golf wear and rain wear, casual wear, and ladies' men's clothing can be obtained.

  The sewn product of the present invention is characterized in that the fabric obtained by the present invention is used for a part thereof. Although the use is not limited, it is a sportswear represented by a down jacket, a windbreaker, golf wear, rainwear, etc., casual wear, ladies' men's clothing, etc.

  In addition, the down shell and the down jacket of the present invention are characterized in that the fabric obtained by the present invention is used at least in part.

  Next, the fabric of the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. Each measured value in the examples was according to the following method.

A. Relative viscosity The sample was weighed and dissolved in 98% by weight concentrated sulfuric acid so that the sample concentration (C) was 1 g / 100 ml, and the solution was dropped using an Ostwald viscometer at a temperature of 25 ° C. (T1). Measure. The dropping time (T2) at a temperature of 25 ° C. of 98 mass% concentrated sulfuric acid in which the sample was not dissolved was measured in the same manner, and the 98% sulfuric acid relative viscosity (ηr) of the sample was calculated by the following equation.
(Ηr) = (T1 / T2) + {1.891 × (1.000−C)}.

B. Total fineness and single fiber fineness (a) Nylon 6 fiber A fiber sample is wound up 400 times with a tension of 1/30 cN × display decitex on a measuring machine having a frame circumference of 1.125 m. Dry for 60 minutes at a temperature of 105 ° C., transfer to a desiccator, allow to cool for 30 minutes at a temperature of 20 ° C. and 55 RH, measure the mass of the skein, calculate the mass per 10,000 m, and calculate nylon 6 In this case, the total fineness of the fiber was calculated with an official moisture content of 4.5%. The measurement was performed 4 times, and the average value was defined as the total fineness. Moreover, the value which divided the obtained total fineness by the number of filaments was made into the single fiber fineness.

(B) Textile disassembling yarn Two lines are drawn at 100 cm intervals in the warp or weft direction in the state of the fabric, and the warp or weft of the fabric within the line is disassembled. Next, a temporary total fineness is calculated to determine the measurement load. A load of 2 g was applied to the obtained decomposed yarn, the length between two points (Lcm) was measured, then cut between two points (Lcm), and the weight (Wg) was measured. Was calculated. Next, a load of 1/10 g / dtex was applied to the temporary total fineness, the length and weight between two points were measured in the same manner as described above, and the total fineness was calculated by the following equation.
・ Total fineness (woven fabric yarn) = W / L × 1000000 (dtex)
Moreover, the value which divided the obtained total fineness by the number of filaments was made into the single fiber fineness (dtex). The same measurement was repeated 5 times, and the average was described in the result.

C. Cross-sectional shape of nylon 6 fiber The cross-sectional shape is observed at a magnification of 400 times using an optical microscope, and the longest line segment A connecting the two arbitrary points of the vertices of the flat multilobal projections is applied to the line segment A. Other line segment B composed of parallel lines and a tangent line including the outermost vertex (the angle of the angle formed by adjacent sides is 90 °), the largest unevenness formed by the flat multilobal shape , The line segment C connecting the vertices of the adjacent convex portions, the perpendicular D drawn from the bottom point of the concave portion sandwiched between the convex portions to the line segment C connecting the vertices of the convex portions, and the length of each, It was calculated from the following formula.
Flatness (F) = (a / b) a: Length of line segment A, b: Length of line segment B ・ Deformation degree (F) = (c / d) c: Length of line segment C, d: Length of line segment D According to the above method, flatness (F) and irregularity (F) are calculated, and average values of five arbitrarily selected values are used for the flatness (F) and irregularity (F) of the yarn. It was.

D. Cross-sectional shape of woven fabric The cross-sectional shape of the fiber was observed from a cross-sectional photograph of the woven fabric by SEM with a magnification of 600 times, and the flatness (W) and the number of irregularities were determined according to the following method. Of the single yarns constituting the woven fabric, five yarns that were not exposed on the calendered surface were arbitrarily selected and evaluated, and the average value was defined as the flatness (W) of the polyamide fiber and the number of inflection points.

(A) Flatness (W)
The longest line segment connecting any two points of the flat multilobed vertices (the length is α), a line parallel to the line segment and a tangent line including the outermost vertex Α / β is defined as flatness (W) when another line segment (the length of which is 90 °) of the circumscribed quadrangle to be constructed (the length of the angle formed by adjacent sides is 90 °) is defined as β. (See FIG. 2).

(B) Number of leaf parts It is defined as a value obtained by dividing the number of inflection points in the fiber cross section by 2.

E. Tear Strength The tear strength of a fabric was measured in both directions of the background in accordance with the tear strength JIS method D method (grab method when wet) defined in JIS L 1096 (2010) 8.14.1.

F. Fabric weight The fabric weight was measured according to JIS L 1096 (2010) 8.3.1 positive amount.

G. Air permeability The air permeability of the woven fabric was measured according to the air permeability A method (Fragile method) defined in JIS L 1096 (2010) 8.26.1.
(A) Initial air permeability About the textiles which have not been washed, the air permeability was measured three times, and the average value was evaluated.
(B) Air permeability after 50 times of washing The washing of the fabric was carried out in accordance with the F-2 method described in the dimensional change of the fabric according to JIS L 1096 (2010) 8.64.4. Washing 50 times is a case where washing-dehydration-drying is repeated 50 times. The air permeability after 50 washings of the fabric was evaluated by measuring the air permeability after 50 washings 3 times and calculating the average value.

H. Glossiness The glossiness of the fabric was evaluated relative to Comparative Example 1 by visual observation of five skilled workers, and the following five grades were determined. For fabrics calendered on only one side, the calendered side was evaluated. A score of 4 or more was accepted.
5: High-grade and elegant luster.
4: Mild gloss.
3: Normal gloss (Comparative Example 1).
2: There is a weak glare or streak.
1: There is a feeling of glare and stripes.

I. Down missing evaluation Evaluation of down missing of the fabric was made by using a fabric after 50 washings, and preparing a 35 cm x 35 cm sample in which 40 g of feathers were packed (sealing was sealed with resin), and this sample was tumble dried It is put into a machine and is operated for 60 minutes without heating together with five rubber tubes defined in JIS L 1076 (2010) A method. After the operation was completed, a sample was taken out and the degree of feather removal was visually determined. The following five-step judgment was performed. A score of 4 or more was accepted.
5: 3 or less 4: 4-10 10: 11-30 30 2: 31-50 1: 51 or more Comprehensive evaluation Glossiness and down missing evaluation were added, and 8 points or more were set as a pass.

[Example 1]
(Manufacture of nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross-section fibers)
Using nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 3.5 and having a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. and the shape shown in FIG. 3A (slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: e / f = 5/2) After being melted and discharged from the spinneret of the discharged discharge hole, cooled, refueled, entangled, taken up with a 2800 m / min godet roller, subsequently stretched 1.4 times, and then heat fixed at a temperature of 155 ° C. A nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross-section fiber of 33 dtex26 filament was obtained at a winding speed of 3500 m / min.

  Flatness (F) and irregularity (F) were calculated from a cross-sectional photograph of the obtained nylon 6 fiber. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Manufacture of 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round section fiber)
Nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 3.0 was used, melted and discharged from a spinneret with a round hole at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C., cooled, lubricated, entangled, and then taken up by a 2480 m / min godet roller. After stretching 7 times, it was heat-set at a temperature of 155 ° C. to obtain a nylon 6 round section fiber of 22 dtex 20 filaments at a winding speed of 4000 m / min.

(Manufacture of textiles)
The nylon 6 flat eight-leaf cross-section fibers are used as weft yarns, 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross-section fibers are used as warp yarns, and the warp density is set to 188 yarns / 2.54 cm and the weft density 135 yarns / 2.54 cm. did.

  According to a conventional method, the obtained green ground is scoured with a solution containing 2 g of caustic soda (NaOH) per liter using an open soaper, dried at a temperature of 120 ° C. using a cylinder dryer, and then preset at 170 ° C. The fluorinated resin compound was immersed (padding method), dried (temperature 120 ° C.), and finished (temperature 175 ° C.). Thereafter, calendar processing (processing conditions: cylinder processing, heating roll surface temperature 180 ° C., heating roll load 147 kN, cloth traveling speed 20 m / min) was applied once to both sides of the woven fabric to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric. The SEM photograph of the cross section of the fabric of this fabric is shown in FIG.

[Example 2]
A nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filament was used in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a nylon 6 round section fiber of 22 dtex 20 filament was used as the warp and the spinning temperature of the nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber was changed to 280 ° C. And a woven fabric was obtained. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 3]
A nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross-section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filament was used in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross section fiber was used for warp and the spinning temperature of nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross section fiber was changed to 275 ° C. And a woven fabric was obtained. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[ Reference Example 4]
A 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross section fiber is used as the warp, and the discharge hole shape of the spinneret (FIG. 3B, slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: g / h = 5/2) Except for the change, a nylon 6 flat six-leaf cross-section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filaments was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 5]
A 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross section fiber is used as the warp, and the discharge hole shape of the spinneret (FIG. 3C, slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: i / j = 5/2) Except for the change, a nylon 6 flat cross-section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filaments was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 6]
A 22 dtex 20 filament is used in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a nylon 6 round cross section fiber of 22 dtex 20 filament is used as a warp, the number of filaments of the nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross section fiber is changed to 20, and the total fineness is 22 dtex. A nylon 6 flat eight-leaf fiber of filaments was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 7]
44 dtex 40 in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round section fiber was used for warp, the number of filaments of nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber was changed to 40, and the total fineness was 44 dtex. A nylon 6 flat eight-leaf fiber of filaments was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 8]
The same method as in Example 1, except that 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round section fiber was used for warp, the number of filaments of nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber was changed to 12, and the total fineness was 22 dtex. A nylon 6 flat eight-leaf fiber of filaments was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 9]
44 dtex58 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 22 dtex20 filament nylon 6 round section fiber was used as the warp, the number of filaments of nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber was changed to 58, and the total fineness was changed to 44 dtex. A nylon 6 flat eight-leaf fiber of filaments was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 10]
11 dtex8 in the same manner as in Example 1 except that nylon 6 round section fiber of 22 dtex 20 filament was used for warp, the number of filaments of nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber was changed to 8, and the total fineness was changed to 11 dtex. A nylon 6 flat eight-leaf fiber of filaments was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 11]
Weaving in the same manner as in Example 1 except that calendering (processing conditions: cylinder processing, heating roll surface temperature 180 ° C., heating roll load 147 kN, cloth traveling speed 20 m / min) was applied once to one side of the fabric. Got. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 12]
Using nylon 6 round section fiber of 22 dtex 20 filament for warp yarn, nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filament is manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, and using the obtained nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber for weft A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp density was set to 220 / 2.54 cm and the weft density was set to 160 / 2.54 cm, and weaving was performed in a plain structure. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 13]
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ripstop taffeta structure was used. Table 2 shows the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.
[Example 14]
In calendering, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heating roll load was set to 74 kN. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. Although the calendar was weak and the glossiness and down missing evaluation were inferior to Example 1, a good fabric was obtained.

[Example 15]
In the same manner as in Example 1, 33 dtex 26 filament nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross-section fiber was produced, and the obtained nylon 6 flat eight leaf cross section fiber was used as the warp, and 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross section fiber was used as the weft. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density was set to 190 pieces / 2.54 cm and the weft density was set to 160 pieces / 2.54 cm, and weaving was performed in a plain structure. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Example 16]
In the same manner as in Example 1, a nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filaments was produced, and the obtained nylon 6 flat eight leaf section fiber was used for warp and weft, and warp density 190 / 2.54 cm, weft A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the density was set to 135 / 2.54 cm and weaving was performed in a plain structure. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. It was a good fabric.

[Comparative Example 1]
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross-section fibers were used for warp and 22 dtex 20 fil round cross-section polyamide fibers were used for the weft. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. In particular, since the obtained woven fabric used polyamide fibers having a round cross section, even after calendering, the overlap between the filaments was small and the compression state was not good, so the air permeability was poor and the down-out evaluation was poor. .

[Comparative Example 2]
A spinneret (FIG. 4 (a), slit width: 0.07mm, slit length k: 0.5mm) using 22dtex20 filament nylon 6 round section fiber as warp and having Y-shaped discharge holes. Except for the change, a nylon 6Y cross-section fiber of 33 dtex 24 filament was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a significantly reduced air permeability after 50 washings, and was inferior in the evaluation of falling out. Further, with respect to the glossiness, the gloss was glossy, and the obtained fabric had not only a glare feeling but also streaks, and an elegant and elegant glossy fabric could not be obtained.

[Comparative Example 3]
Changed to a spinneret (Fig. 4 (b), slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length l: 0.5 mm) using 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross-section fibers for warp and cross-shaped discharge holes. Except for this, a nylon 6 cross-section fiber of 33 dtex 24 filaments was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. The obtained woven fabric has a significantly reduced air permeability after 50 washings as in Comparative Example 2, is inferior in evaluation of falling out, has a lustrous glossiness, and the obtained woven fabric has a glaring sensation. Not only was it streaky, but an elegant and elegant woven fabric could not be obtained.

[Comparative Example 4]
Nylon 6 with 33 dtex 26 filament and flatness (F) of 1.3 in the same manner as in Example 1 except that nylon 6 round section fiber of 22 dtex 20 filament was used for warp and nylon 6 with relative viscosity 2.5 was used. Six flat eight-leaf cross-section fibers were produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. The flatness (W) was low, the glossiness was insufficient, the air permeability after 50 washings was inferior, and the evaluation of falling out was slightly inferior.

[Comparative Example 5]
A 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross-section fiber was used as the warp, a nylon 6 having a relative viscosity of 4.0 was used, and the spinning temperature was changed to 275 ° C., in the same manner as in Example 1, 33 dtex 26 filament, flat A nylon 6 flat eight-leaf cross-section fiber having a degree (F) of 3.5 was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. Due to the high flatness (W), the fabric was strong in glare.

[Comparative Example 6]
A 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross section fiber was used as the warp, and the shape of the discharge hole of the spinneret was changed (FIG. 4 (c). Slit width: 0.07 mm, slit length ratio: m / n = 5 / 2) Except for this, a nylon 6 flat twelve cross-section fiber of 33 dtex 26 filaments was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. Since it was close to a round cross section, the air permeability after 50 washings was high, the down-out evaluation was inferior, and a mild gloss was not obtained.

[Comparative Example 7]
A 22 dtex 5 filament nylon 6 was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 22 dtex 20 filament nylon 6 round cross-section fibers were used for warp, the number of discharge holes of the spinneret was changed to 5, and the total fineness was 22 dtex. A flat eight-leaf cross-section fiber was produced to obtain a woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. Since the single fiber fineness was thick, sufficient results were not obtained in the evaluation of the drop-out.

[Comparative Example 8]
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the cover factor was 976. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. Since the density was low, the initial air permeability was inferior, and the evaluation of down omission was poor.

[Comparative Example 9]
A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the calendering was not performed on the woven fabric. Tables 2 and 3 show the physical properties and evaluation results of the resulting fabric. The overlap between filaments was insufficient, and the evaluation of down-out was inferior.

  As is apparent from the results of Tables 2 and 3, the woven fabric according to the embodiment of the present invention has high strength by keeping the rough shape of the fiber flat and has a large number of leaves, so that the polyamide single fiber It is a woven fabric that can easily restrain the movement of the fiber and is compressed and fixed by calendering so that the irregularities of the single fibers overlap with each other. Furthermore, since the cross section of the single fiber constituting the fabric has moderate irregularities, the surface of the fabric is uniformly smoothed by calendering, and an elegant gloss with a high-class feeling is obtained. Because of its excellent characteristics, it is possible to provide side areas such as downwear, down jackets, and sportswear.

  The woven fabric of the present invention is lightweight and thin, has high strength, low air permeability, and excellent gloss, and can be suitably used for side fabrics such as downwear, down jackets, and sportswear.

1-3: Polyamide single fibers located on the surface of the fabric after calendering 4-6: Polyamide monofilaments not located on the surface of the fabric A: Longest connecting any two points of the vertices of the flat multi-leaf shape line segment
B: Other line segment that is a line that is parallel to the line segment and includes a tangent line that includes the outermost vertex (the angle of the angle formed by adjacent sides is 90 °)
C: A line segment connecting the vertices of adjacent convex portions with the largest unevenness formed by a flat multilobal shape.
D: A perpendicular line drawn from a bottom point of the concave portion sandwiched between the convex portions to a line segment C connecting the vertexes of the convex portions.
e: The length of the slit of the flat eight-leaf shaped discharge hole used in Example 1
f: The length of the slit of the flat eight-leaf shaped discharge hole used in Example 1
g: Length of the slit of the flat six-leaf discharge hole used in Reference Example 4
h: The length of the slit of the flat six-leaf discharge hole used in Reference Example 4
i: Length of the slit of the flat ten-lobed discharge hole used in Example 5
j: Length of the slit of the flat ten-lobed discharge hole used in Example 5
k: Slit length of Y-shaped discharge hole used in Comparative Example 2
l: Slit length of the cross-shaped discharge hole used in Comparative Example 3
m: The length of the slit of the flat twelve leaf discharge hole used in Comparative Example 6
n: The length of the slit of the flat twelve-shaped discharge hole used in Comparative Example 6
Region O: Region where the convex portions of the single fibers adjacent to the concave portions of the single fibers overlap each other
Region X: a region where the concave portion of the single fiber and the concave portion of the adjacent single fiber overlap

Claims (7)

A woven fabric that is calendered on one or both sides, and the polyamide fibers constituting the warp and / or weft of the woven fabric after calendering have a single fiber fineness of 0.5 to 2.5 dtex and a total fineness of 5 to 50 dtex. The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a flat multilobal shape having 8 to 10 leaf portions, and the longest line segment connecting any two points of the convex vertices of the flat multilobal shape is a line segment. A circumscribed quadrangle composed of A (the length is α) and a tangent line that is parallel to the line segment A and includes the outermost vertex (the angle of the angle formed by adjacent sides is 90 °) The flatness (W) (α / β) represented by the other line segment B (the length is β) is 1.5 to 3.0, and the cover factor is 1200 to 2500. A fabric characterized by that. The polyamide fiber used for the fabric before calendering has a single fiber fineness of 0.4 to 2.2 dtex, a total fineness of 4 to 44 dtex, and the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber is a flat multileaf shape with 8 to 10 leaves. The length of the longest line segment A connecting any two points of the flat multilobed convex vertices is a, and is composed of a line parallel to the line segment A and a tangent line including the outermost vertex. The length of the other segment B of the circumscribed quadrangle (the angle of the angle formed by the adjacent sides is 90 °) is b, and is the largest unevenness among the unevenness formed by the flat multilobal shape. When the length of the line segment C connecting the vertices is c, and the length of the perpendicular D drawn from the bottom of the concave portion sandwiched between the convex portions to the line segment C connecting the vertices of the convex portion is d. The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is a polyamide fiber that simultaneously satisfies the following formula.
Flatness (F) (a / b) = 1.5 to 3.0
・ Deformation degree (F) (c / d) = 1.0 to 8.0 The fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the tear strength is 5.0 N or more and the initial air permeability is 1.0 cc / cm ² / s or less. Fabric according to claim 1, the air permeability after washing 50 times is equal to or less than 1.0cc / ^cm 2 / s. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the difference between the initial air permeability and the air permeability after 50 washings is 0.4 cc / cm ² / s or less.   A sewn product using at least a part of the fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5.   The down shell or down jacket which used the textile fabric in any one of Claims 1-5 for at least one part.