JP6572159B2 - Intertwisted yarn and fabric and clothing textile using the same - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a twisted yarn obtained by further winding a multifilament yarn around a long and short composite spun yarn composed of a multifilament yarn and a short fiber, and a fabric and a textile product for clothing using the same.

  Various proposals have been made for long and short composite spun yarns because they can take advantage of the advantages of filament fibers and short fibers. Patent Document 1 proposes a method of electrically opening a multifilament yarn and twisting it with a short fiber to make a long and short composite spun yarn having a uniform mixed structure. Patent Document 2 proposes a method of making a core-sheath core yarn by twisting a monofilament fiber that is a long fiber as a core and a spinning fiber that is a short fiber as a sheath and covering the outer periphery. In the patent document 3, the present inventors have proposed a long and short composite spun yarn in which a multifilament yarn is contained inside and viewed from a cross section and is unevenly distributed around a peripheral portion.

JP 2012-102445 A JP 2006-225827 A JP 2003-73944 A

  However, conventional long and short composite spun yarns are not yet sufficiently stretchable and washable, and further improvements have been demanded.

  In order to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present invention proposes a twisted yarn in which a multifilament yarn is further wound around a long and short composite spun yarn to improve stretchability and washability, and a fabric and a textile product for clothing using the same.

The twisted yarn of the present invention is a twisted yarn comprising a long / short composite spun yarn composed of a first multifilament yarn and a short fiber, and a second multifilament yarn arranged outside the long / short composite spun yarn. The short fibers include animal hair fibers;
The long and short composite yarn twist direction as the Ri second twist direction of the multifilament yarn Do different of the yarn second multifilament is composed of all multifilament yarns, yarns said second multifilament convergence It is characterized by being twisted from the outside of the long and short composite spun yarn in the state .

  The woven fabric or knitted fabric of the present invention includes the above-described twisted yarn. Moreover, the textile product for clothing of the present invention is characterized in that the woven or knitted fabric is a textile product for clothing.

  The twisted yarn of the present invention includes a long and short composite spun yarn composed of a first multifilament yarn and a short fiber, and a second multifilament yarn disposed outside the long and short composite spun yarn, and the short fiber Contains animal hair fibers, and the twist direction of the long and short composite spun yarn and the twist direction of the second multifilament yarn are different, so that stretchability and washability can be improved. Further, since the second multifilament yarn is twisted from the outside of the long and short composite spun yarn, the pilling property is also improved.

FIG. 1 is a schematic conceptual diagram of a twisted yarn of one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic external view of the same twisted yarn. FIG. 3A is a cross-sectional view of an example of a long and short composite spun yarn used in the present invention, and FIG. 3B is a side view of the spun yarn. FIG. 4 is a perspective view showing a main part of a ring spinning machine for producing the same long and short composite spun yarn. FIG. 5 is a schematic explanatory view of the main part of the front roller of the ring spinning machine.

  The intertwisted yarn of the present invention includes a long / short composite spun yarn composed of a first multifilament yarn and a short fiber, and a second multifilament yarn disposed outside the long / short composite spun yarn. The twist direction of the long and short composite spun yarn including the hair fiber is different from the twist direction of the second multifilament yarn arranged on the outside thereof. This intertwisted yarn is obtained by twisting a long and short composite spun yarn and a second multifilament yarn, and twisting in a direction different from the twist direction of the long and short composite spun yarn.

  When the long and short composite spun yarns are viewed from a cross section, the first multifilament yarns are present together and partially exposed, but most are contained within the short fibers and are unevenly distributed around the periphery. It is preferable. Because the multifilament yarn is incorporated in the short fiber, the first multifilament yarn is embedded and the degree of exposure is low, and the characteristics of the short fiber can be pulled out more. Will be.

The long and short composite yarn is a single yarn, twist multiplier K ₁ is preferably 70 to 200. Further preferred twist factor K ₁ is from 75 to 190, particularly preferably 80 to 180. Twist coefficient K ₁ is given by the following equation (1). When twist multiplier K ₁ having a single fiber that is spun by a ring spinning machine is in the range of the further preferred characteristic, i.e. suppressing the feeling rice, long and short composite yarn of plump soft texture, such as a conventional wool spun yarn It becomes. This yarn remains as a single yarn and is useful as a knit yarn or jersey yarn. The twist coefficient K is calculated by the following formula (1).
K ₁ = T / (10,000 / D) ^1/2 ... Formula (1)
T: Number of twists between 1 m D: Fineness of long and short composite spun yarn (deci tex)

The交撚yarn is a single yarn, the twist coefficient K ₂ is preferably 70 to 200. Further preferred twist factor K ₂ is 75 to 190, particularly preferably 80 to 180. Coefficient K ₂ twist calculated by the following equation (2).
K ₂ = T / (10,000 / D) ^1/2 ... Formula (2)
T: Number of twists between 1 m D: Fineness of twisted yarn (deci tex)

It is preferable that the relationship between the twist coefficient (lower twist coefficient) K _{1 of the} long and short composite spun yarn and the twist coefficient (upper twist coefficient) K ₂ of the twisted yarn is equal. Since the lower twist direction and the upper twist direction are separated, the twists are balanced and stable when the twist coefficients are equal.

  The ratio of the multifilament yarn and the short fiber of the twisted yarn is that the total amount of the first and second multifilament yarns is 5% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight, and the short fiber is 50% by weight. It is preferably more than 95% by weight and less than 95%. When the short fibers are rich in this way, it is easy to take advantage of the warm nature of animal hair fibers.

  The short fibers may be animal hair fibers or animal hair fibers and polyester fibers, animal hair fibers and nylon fibers, animal hair fibers and cellulose acetate fibers, animal hair fibers and cupra fibers, or animal hair fibers and silk fibers. By including animal hair fibers, it is easy to take advantage of the warm nature of animal hair fibers. Animal hair fibers are hair fibers such as wool, cashmere, mohair, and camel. Wool is particularly useful, but wool mixed with cashmere and mohair is light and glossy, making it a high-grade material. The fiber length of the short fibers is preferably 20 to 200 mm, more preferably 30 to 180 mm.

  The first and second multifilament yarns are preferably at least one yarn selected from polyester, nylon, cellulose acetate, cupra and silk. When these yarns are combined with animal hair fibers, they become higher-value added twisted yarns.

  The twisted yarn of the present invention preferably has a single yarn fineness of 58.8 to 417 deci tex (24 to 170 meter count single yarn, indicated as 1/24 to 1/170), more preferably 64.5 to 333.3 deci tex. (30 to 155 meter count single yarn, indicated as 1/30 to 1/155). The preferred fineness of the double yarn is 117.6 to 833 deci tex (12-85 meter count double yarn, indicated as 2/24 to 2/170).

  In the present invention, “washable property” means that home washing is possible. Specifically, after washing and washing 20 times by the method specified in JIS L0217 (Method 105), the dimensional change is 2.0% or less for both vertical and horizontal. The reason why the dimensional change is small in this way is presumed that the twisted yarn of the present invention has a multifilament yarn wound around the short fiber in a spiral shape (helical shape) and restricts the movement of the short fiber. Therefore, even if the short fiber is a fiber that easily contracts when swollen in water such as wool, it exhibits washability.

  Hereinafter, it demonstrates using drawing. In the drawings, the same reference numerals denote the same items. FIG. 1 is a schematic conceptual diagram of a twisted yarn of one embodiment of the present invention. This twisted yarn 24 is twisted with a long and short composite spun yarn 20 and a second multifilament yarn 23. Intertwisting is obtained by aligning both yarns and twisting them with a twisting machine such as a double twister. The long / short composite spun yarn 20 is composed of short fibers 21 including animal hair fibers and a first multifilament yarn 22. FIG. 2 is a schematic external view of the same twisted yarn. This twisted yarn 24 shows a state in which the long and short composite spun yarn 20 and the second multifilament yarn 23 are alternately twisted. The actual twisted yarn is close to the state shown in FIG.

  FIG. 3A is a cross-sectional view of an example of a long and short composite spun yarn used in the present invention, and FIG. 3B is a side view of the spun yarn. In this long and short composite spun yarn, the multifilament yarn and the short fiber are integrally twisted, and when viewed from the cross section, the multifilament yarn is included in the long and short composite spun yarn and is unevenly distributed around the periphery. When viewed from the side, the multifilament yarn is twisted along the twist direction of the long and short composite spun yarn. As shown in FIG. 3A, the multifilament yarn 22 is taken into the short fibers 21, is contained in the long and short composite spun yarn 20, and is unevenly distributed around the periphery. That is, it is eccentric. When viewed from the side, the multifilament yarn 22 is taken into the short fiber 21 and spirally wound along the twist direction of the long and short composite spun yarn 20 as shown in FIG. 3B. Since the multifilament yarn 22 is embedded in the short fiber 21, the multifilament yarn 22 is embedded and the degree of exposure becomes low, and the characteristics of the short fiber 21 can be pulled out more. It becomes the texture. In addition, the short fiber is wound from the periphery by the first and second multifilament yarns, and the fluff is turned down. In other words, they are bound. This results in less fuzz, less pilling, and is washable.

  As shown in FIG. 3A, the long and short composite spun yarn 20 preferably has a substantially circular appearance when viewed from the cross section. Moreover, as shown in FIG. 3B, it is preferable that the external appearance seen from the side is substantially linear. With such an appearance, the multifilament yarn 22 is embedded and the degree of exposure is low, and the characteristics of the short fibers 21 can be pulled out more as in the above, so that the softness of the short fiber 21 is suppressed and the fluffy soft texture. It becomes.

  Although related to the twist coefficient, the winding pitch of the first and second multifilament yarns is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 mm, more preferably 0.6 to 4.0 mm, and particularly preferably 0.7 to 3.0 mm. If the winding pitch of the multifilament yarn is within the above range, the short fibers can be wound around and integrated to improve the washability. In addition, when the multifilament yarn is spirally wound around the short fiber, the multifilament yarn is stretched like a coil when pulled in the length direction, which gives a preferable elongation to the long and short composite spun yarn. In particular, when the short fiber is wool, the fiber length is 55 to 100 mm. Therefore, when the winding pitch of the multifilament yarn is in the above range, a considerable number of the multifilaments are wound per single fiber. It becomes a preferable state for integration of the short fiber and the multifilament yarn.

  FIG. 4 is a perspective view showing the main part of a ring spinning machine for producing long and short composite spun yarns in one embodiment of the present invention. A front bottom roller 4 is provided for each weight on the front bottom main shaft 3 that is actively rotated. A front top roller 5 is placed on the front bottom roller 4. The front top roller 5 is covered with a rubber cot, and is fitted on a common arbor 6 to which a load is applied so as to be independently rollable. The short fiber bundle 15 pulled out from the roving bobbin 1 is supplied from the guide bar to the back roller 8 through the trumpet feeder 7. The short fiber bundle 15 delivered from the back roller 8 and drafted by the draft apron 9 is nipped between the front bottom roller 4 and the front top roller 5 and spun.

  The multifilament yarn 16 pulled out from the pan 2 passes through the yarn guide, passes through the yarn guide 14 in a tension-free state, and is supplied to the upstream side of the front top roller 5. The short fiber bundle is superposed on the nip line and then the actual twist is added. The actual twist is applied by passing the yarn through the snell wire 10 and the anti-node ring 11 and winding the yarn around the yarn tube 13 on the weight via the traveler 12. The obtained long / short composite spun yarn 20 is wound around the yarn tube 13.

  FIG. 5 is an explanatory diagram viewed from above the front top roller 5 when the short fiber bundle 15 and the multifilament yarn 16 are twisted together. On the nip line 17 between the front bottom roller and the front top roller 5, the short fiber bundle 15 and the multifilament yarn 16 are combined, and after passing through the nip line 17, twisting is performed to obtain a long / short composite spun yarn 20.

  As described above, the long and short composite spun yarn supplies the short fiber bundle to the draft zone of the ring spinning machine, and supplies the multifilament yarn in a tension-free state upstream of the front roller of the ring spinning machine. A multifilament yarn is superposed on the short fiber bundle drafted on the nip line, and then real twist is added to produce a long and short composite spun yarn. In the above description, the tension-free state of the multifilament yarn means that a washer tensioner or the like is not used and friction is minimized and the yarn guide is simply passed. In terms of specific tension, the tension value is 0 to 15 g, more preferably 0 to 10 g, and particularly preferably in the range of 0 to 6.5 g.

  The long and short composite spun yarns thus obtained are twisted together with a second multifilament with a twisting machine such as a double twister to obtain a twisted yarn.

Next, the fabric of the present invention will be described. The fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric or a knitted fabric containing the above-described twisted yarn. When the entire fabric is 100% by weight, the twisted yarn is preferably 10 to 100% by weight. When the short fibers used for the twisted yarn are animal hair fibers (for example, wool), a soft texture and warmth can be exhibited at about 5% by weight of the entire fabric, and good comfort can be obtained. The fabric can be widely used for general fabrics and knitting. The woven fabric includes an arbitrary structure such as plain weave, oblique weave, and satin weave. The knitted fabric includes, for example, an arbitrary structure such as a warp knitting, a weft knitting, and a double knitting. The preferred basis weight of the woven or knitted fabric is 100 to 300 g / m ² . Dyeing may be performed at any stage, such as cotton (cotton), yarn, fabric (woven fabric, knitted fabric), and a conventional method can be adopted as the dyeing method.

  The clothing product of the present invention is a textile product for clothing by sewing the fabric. Examples of textile products for clothing include suits, uniforms, school uniforms, work clothes, sports clothes, shirts, inner wear, and socks. These clothing products are suitable for wearing in three seasons from autumn to spring.

Hereinafter, more specific description will be made using examples. The measurement methods in Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention were as follows.
(1) High elongation of yarn Measured in accordance with JIS L1095 9.5.1 method.
(2) Textile strength Measured according to JIS L 1096A method.
(3) Anti-pill property It measured according to JISL1076A method.
(4) Texture Measured by a KES texture measurement method test manufactured by Kato Tech.
(5) Other physical properties Measured according to JIS or industry standards.

Example 1
(1) Production of long / short composite spun yarn The long / short composite spun yarn of this example is for single yarn fabrics. Long and short composite spun yarns were produced by the method shown in FIGS. As the short fiber bundle 15, a 4.0 meter count (2,500 deci tex) of merino wool was supplied and drafted 19 times in the draft zone of the spinning machine. As the multifilament yarn 16, polyethylene terephthalate (PET) multifilament yarn (total fineness: 33 decitex, number of filaments: 12) was supplied to the upstream side of the front roller in a tension-free state (0 to 6.5 g). Then, PET multifilament yarn was superposed on the wool fiber bundle drafted on the nip line of the front roller, and then real twist was added to produce a long and short composite spun yarn. The obtained long and short composite spun yarn had a 60-meter count single yarn (indicated as 1/60, fineness 166.7 deci tex), and a twist coefficient K1 = 90 (Z twist).
(2) Manufacture of twisted and twisted yarns The above-mentioned long and short composite spun yarns and PET multifilament yarns (total fineness: 84 deci tex, number of filaments: 24) are passed through a double twister twisting machine and twisted at a twisting coefficient of K2 = 90 (S twist). Twisted. The strength of this twisted yarn was 575 g and the elongation at break was 41.9%.
(3) Fabric production The above twisted yarn was used for warp and weft respectively and finished with a 2/2 twill structure. The physical properties of the resulting fabric are summarized in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
Except for the changes shown in Table 1, long and short composite spun yarns were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, and the obtained two long and short composite spun yarns were applied to a double twister twisting machine, and a twin yarn having a twist coefficient of K2 = 90 It was. The double yarn had a strength of 495 g and a breaking elongation of 39.6%. This double yarn was used for warp and weft respectively and finished with a 2/2 twill structure. The physical properties of the resulting fabric are summarized in Table 1.

  As is apparent from Table 1, the fabric of Example 1 was washable, excellent in pilling properties, and good in stretch properties (elongation).

(Example 2)
As shown in Table 2, long and short composite spun yarns and PET multifilament yarns (total fineness: 33 deci tex, number of filaments: 12) produced in the same manner as in Example 1 were passed through a double twister twisting machine, and the twist coefficient K2 = 90 (S Twisting). The strength of the obtained twisted yarn was 346 g, and the elongation at break was 35.3%. Using the twisted yarn, a flat knitted fabric was finished with a circular knitting machine. The physical properties of the resulting knitted fabric are summarized in Table 2.

(Comparative Example 2)
Except for the changes shown in Table 2, long and short composite spun yarns were produced in the same manner as in Example 1. The yarn had a strength of 211 g and a breaking elongation of 32.9%. This yarn was used as a single yarn and finished with a flat knitted fabric with a circular knitting machine. The physical properties of the resulting knitted fabric are summarized in Table 2.

  As is apparent from Table 2, the knitted fabric of Example 1 had high bursting strength, washerability, and excellent pilling properties.

  The long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention can be pleated while maintaining the characteristics of short fibers such as comfort, and is excellent in washability, strength, durability, dimensional stability including home laundry, Suitable for uniforms, suits, work clothes, sports clothes, shirts, underwear, etc.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Coarse bobbin 2 Pann 3 Front bottom main shaft 4 Front bottom roller 5 Front top roller 6 Arbor 7 Trumpet feeder 8 Back roller 9 Draft apron 10 Snell wire 11 Antinode ring 12 Traveler 13 Thread tube 14 Yarn guide 15 Short fiber bundle 16, 22, 23 Multifilament yarn 17 Nip line 20 Long / short composite spun yarn 21 Short fiber 24 Intertwisted yarn

Claims (9)

A twisted yarn including a long and short composite spun yarn composed of a first multifilament yarn and a short fiber, and a second multifilament yarn disposed outside the long and short composite spun yarn,
The short fibers include animal hair fibers;
The long and short the composite yarn twisting direction second multifilament yarn twist direction Ri Do different,
The second multifilament yarn is composed only of multifilament yarn,
The second multifilament yarn is twisted from the outside of the long and short composite spun yarn in a converged state, and a twisted yarn characterized by the above.   When the long and short composite spun yarn is viewed from a cross section, the first multifilament yarn is present together and partly exposed, but most is contained within the short fiber and is unevenly distributed around the periphery. The twisted yarn according to claim 1. The long and short composite yarn is a single thread,交撚yarn according to claim 1 or 2 twist coefficient K ₁ is 70 to 200.
However, the twist coefficient K ₁ is calculated by the following formula (1).
K ₁ = T / (10,000 / D) ^1/2 ... Formula (1)
T: Number of twists between 1 m D: Fineness of long and short composite spun yarn (deci tex) The交撚yarn is a single yarn, twisted交撚yarn according to claim 1 coefficient K ₂ is 70 to 200.
However, twist factor K ₂ is calculated by the following equation (2).
K ₂ = T / (10,000 / D) ^1/2 ... Formula (2)
T: Number of twists between 1 m D: Fineness of twisted yarn (deci tex)   The ratio of the multifilament yarn and the short fiber of the twisted yarn is that the total amount of the first and second multifilament yarns is 5% by weight or more and less than 50% by weight when the twisted yarn is 100% by weight and the short fiber is 50% The twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is more than 95% by weight and less than 95% by weight.   The short fibers are animal hair fibers or animal hair fibers and polyester fibers, animal hair fibers and nylon fibers, animal hair fibers and cellulose acetate fibers, animal hair fibers and cupra fibers, or animal hair fibers and silk fibers. Item 6. The twisted yarn according to any one of Items 1 to 5.   The twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the multifilament yarn is at least one fiber selected from polyester fiber, nylon fiber, cellulose acetate fiber, cupra fiber, and silk fiber.   A woven fabric or a knitted fabric comprising the twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7.   A textile product for clothing, wherein the textile or knitted fabric according to claim 8 is used as a textile product for clothing.

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