JP6893418B2 - Elastic warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to elastic warp knitted fabrics suitable for body shape-repairing clothing such as girdles and body suits and inner applications.

In recent years, body shape correction clothing has been required to have not only body shape correction functions but also functions other than body shape correction such as followability to body movements, ease of putting on and taking off, and good touch in order to improve comfort. There is. In addition, from the viewpoint of comfort, body shape dressing is generally worn in close contact with the body, and therefore, it is dissatisfied that it is "stuffy" regardless of the season. For this reason, it is strongly desired to improve the feeling of stuffiness in clothes when worn, and a fabric having high breathability is desired for innerwear having high comfort.

On the other hand, there is also a complaint that it is difficult to move because the body shape compensation clothing generally has a strong force to tighten the body. Therefore, it is required to improve the operability while having a compensating function when worn. The feeling of power caused by such compensating property, detachability, and operability closely corresponds to the physical characteristics of the fabric.

Conventionally, in order to increase the air permeability, a method of enlarging the holes on the fabric as represented by the mesh structure has been considered. By enlarging the holes, the air permeability is improved, but the surface of the fabric is uneven, so that the fabric is very uncomfortable to the touch. On the other hand, in order to give the knitted fabric excellent extensibility and resilience for the purpose of improving the operability, it is necessary to make the knitted fabric a dense structure, and as a result, the holes become smaller and high air permeability can be obtained. hard. That is, it is very difficult to achieve both breathability, touch, and operability.

Patent Document 1 below, aeration rate ^{90cm 3 / cm 2 /s~123.2 cm 3} / cm 2 / s, the stress ratio of elongation of longitudinal and transverse direction is in the range of 0.8 to 1.4 It is disclosed that an elastic warp knitted fabric having excellent breathability, extensibility, and resilience can be obtained, but when focusing only on the air permeability, it is ^{less than 130 cm 3} / cm ² / s, so that the inner wear is actually used. When used for such purposes, it does not sufficiently improve stuffiness.

Japanese Patent No. 2657200

In view of the above problems of the prior art, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a stretchable warp knitted fabric having high breathability and excellent smoothness. In addition to breathability and smoothness, the knitted fabric has a good balance of tensile stress in the vertical and horizontal directions, which is used to provide an elastic warp knitted fabric that provides a highly comfortable bottom when worn as a bottom product. That is.

As a result of diligent research and experiments to solve the above problems, the present inventors have achieved high smoothness by reducing the roughness of the fabric surface even though the knitted fabric has high breathability. At the same time, a knitted fabric having high elongation characteristics in both the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric has been developed, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] aeration is 130~500cm ³ / ^cm 2 / s, and knitted longitudinal direction or, the roughness average deviation of the knitted fabric transverse direction (SMD) is Ri der 10.0, inelastic Chain knitting with yarn moves between wells at odd intervals of 3 to 7 courses, and the strength of power, which is the magnitude of the load value when the elongation rate when one elastic yarn is stretched at a constant speed, is 200%. Two different types of elastic yarns are inserted, the higher power elastic yarn is the structure that accompanies the inelastic yarn, and the lower power elastic yarn is the chain knitting by the inelastic yarn accompanied by the elastic yarn. It has a structure that moves 1 to 3 wells between rows of tissue, and includes an insertion structure that swings every course and reciprocates between two vertical chain knits by a covering yarn. Sexual warp knitted fabric.
[2] At the time of 80% repeated stretching When the stretching stress in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric is S1 and the stretching stress in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric is S2 at the time of the third 80% stretching, S2 / S1 is 0.8 to The elastic warp knitted fabric according to the above [1], which is 2.0.
[3] The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to the above [1] or [2], wherein the elongation stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at the third 80% during 80% repeated stretching is 250 cN to 450 cN.

By using the elastic warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, in addition to reducing stuffiness and being excellent in touch when worn, bottom garments with good operability and excellent wearing comfort while sufficiently obtaining the effect of body shape correction can be obtained. Obtainable.

It is a knitting structure diagram in Examples 1 to 3 and 5. It is a knitting organization chart in Example 4. It is a knitting organization chart in Example 6. It is a knitting structure diagram in Comparative Example 1. It is a knitting structure diagram in Comparative Example 2.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment has a high air flow rate and smoothness, is excellent in reducing stuffiness and touching the skin, and is sufficiently stretched in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. It is an elastic warp knitted fabric for bottom garments that has a good attachment / detachment feeling and operability while obtaining a compensating effect.

It is important that the air flow rate of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment is in the range of 130 cm ³ / cm ² / s to 500 ^{cm 3} / cm ² / s, preferably 200 cm ³ / cm ² / s to 500 cm. ^{It is 3} / cm ² / s. If the air permeability is 130 cm ³ / cm ² / s, sufficient air permeability can be obtained when used as a product such as a bottom, and a feeling of stuffiness during wearing can be reduced. On the other hand, when the air volume is 500 cm ³ / cm ² / s or less, the holes in the dough do not become too large and the strength of the dough can be maintained. The holes in the fabric are parts other than the threads in the fabric.

It is important that the average deviation (SMD) of the roughness of the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment in the vertical direction or the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric is 10.0 or less, preferably in both the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric. SMD is 10.0 or less. Here, SMD is an average deviation of the surface roughness of the fabric, and has a correlation with the physical roughness of the fabric. The larger the SMD, the more uneven the surface of the fabric. When the SMD is 10.0 or less, the smoothness is sufficiently high, unevenness at the time of wearing can be suppressed, and an excellent touch can be obtained. The vertical direction of the knitted fabric indicates the knitting direction in the warp knitting machine, and the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric indicates a direction perpendicular to the vertical direction of the knitted fabric.

In the fabric stress of the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the tensile stress in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at 80% for the third time at 80% repeated stretching is S2 (cN), and the stretching stress in the horizontal direction is S1 (cN). ), The stress ratio S2 / S1 is preferably 0.8 to 2.0, and more preferably S2 / S1 is 1.0 to 1.8. Generally, in bottom garments such as girdles, the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric is used in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product, and the vertical direction of the knitted fabric is used in the horizontal direction of the product. Therefore, the compensability of the body shape corresponds to the extension characteristic in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric, and the operability corresponds to the extension characteristic in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. If S2 / S1 is 0.8 or more, the movement followability is impaired. Instead, a sufficient tightening force is generated in the circumferential direction of the body, and a sufficient body shape correction effect can be obtained. On the other hand, when S2 / S1 is 2.0 or less, the tightening is not excessive, so that the wearing comfort is not impaired.

Further, in the fabric stress of the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the elongation stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at the third 80% during the 80% repeated stretching is preferably 250 cN to 450 cN, more preferably. , 300 cN to 450 cN. When S2 is 250 cN or more, a sufficient tightening force is generated in the circumferential direction of the body, and a sufficient body shape correction effect can be obtained. On the other hand, when S2 is 450 cN or less, the tightening does not become excessive, so that the wearing comfort is not impaired.

As for the recovery rate of the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment, it is preferable that the stretch recovery rate of the fabric is 85% or more in the third knitting horizontal direction at the time of repeated stretching of 80%. If the stretch recovery rate is 85% or more, it is possible to follow the movement of the body during movement.

On the surface of the design portion such as the handle of the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the ten-point average roughness (R _zJIS ) obtained from the roughness curve of the surface of the design portion in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric is 500 μm or less. Is preferable. Here, the design part such as a pattern refers to a pattern on the surface of the fabric. Generally, in a girdle or the like, a pattern is arranged on the surface of the fabric by a pattern thread or the like in order to give an aesthetic appearance. Generally, the height difference of the surface unevenness is evaluated as roughness, and it can be said that the larger the height difference is, the rougher the surface is. _{If R zJIS} , which is one roughness index, is 500 μm or less in both the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric, the surface roughness of the design portion is small, and a dense and highly aesthetic fabric can be obtained. I can say.

As a knitting machine used for producing the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment, a tricot knitting machine or a Raschel knitting machine is preferably used. Above all, Raschel knitting is preferably used in order to increase the power in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric, that is, in the horizontal direction at the time of production. The knitting gauge to be used is preferably 20 to 40 gauge. Further, in order to arrange the pattern on the surface of the fabric, a Raschel knitting machine having a jacquard reed is preferably used.

FIG. 1 shows an example of a structure that improves the breathability of the fabric in the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present embodiment. A chain knit (GB1) made of inelastic yarn that moves between wells and an inserted elastic yarn (GB3) that accompanies the main chain knit are arranged every three courses. The jacquard structure (JB2) is based on a large hole mesh structure that enhances breathability while exhibiting high strength by using an insertion structure that reciprocates between two vertical chain knits and swings every course. It is possible to knit the dough to be used. Further, since the structure of the jacquard yarn is an insertion structure without loop formation, it is possible to finish the fabric thinly and improve the air permeability. Therefore, it is possible to impart high air permeability. Further, in the chain knitting using the inelastic yarn, the size of the mesh hole can be appropriately changed by changing the moving distance between the courses every 3, 5, 7 courses and every odd number course. It should be noted that preferably, 3 and 5 courses are used. If it is 7 courses or less, it is possible to maintain a large hole diameter while maintaining the strength.

Further, as an example of a method for improving elasticity in two directions, an inelastic yarn is used for the ground structure (GB1), and two types of elastic yarns having different fineness and structure (first elastic yarn (GB3)) are used for the inelastic yarn. ) And the second elastic thread (GB4)) are inserted and knitted. Regarding the power strength of the first elastic thread and the second elastic thread, it is preferable that the first elastic thread is larger than the second elastic thread. The first elastic yarn is a structure that accompanies the chain knitting, whereas the second elastic yarn is characterized in that the first elastic yarn moves between the rows according to the chain knitting structure of the accompanying inelastic yarn. And. The main movement distance can be appropriately selected from 1 to 3 wells, and is preferably 1 to 2 wells. By using two types of elastic threads with different powers and forming different structures, it is possible to separately manage and adjust the elasticity of the vertical and the elasticity of the horizontal. The strength of the power is determined by the magnitude of the load value when the elongation rate when one elastic yarn is stretched at a constant speed is 200%.

Further, as an example of a method for improving the smoothness of the surface of the fabric, an insertion structure that is entangled with the ground yarn and pressed down is used for the jacquard structure. By using a PU as a core yarn and a covering yarn using an inelastic yarn as a coating yarn, a knitted fabric having a soft touch and a smooth surface can be obtained. Further, by using the covering yarn for the jacquard structure, it is possible to impart elongation to the pattern structure by the jacquard, and the elongation of the fabric imparted to the fabric by the second elastic yarn is not hindered in the horizontal direction. Tissue formation becomes possible. In addition, by using the covering yarn for the jacquard, when the fabric is relaxed, the inelastic yarn in the covering yarn swells like a pile as the elastic yarn contracts, so that the covering yarn on the fabric is swelled. By embossing, the pattern formed by the jacquard is given sharpness.
The inelastic yarn used for the covering yarn has a preferable fineness of 20 to 200 dtex, an elastic yarn has a fineness of 20 to 700 dtex, and the draft ratio of the elastic yarn is 1.0 to 3.0. preferable. The number of twists of the covering yarn is preferably 300 T / m to 1000 T / m.

Non-elastic yarns include polyamide fibers, polyester fibers (polytrimethylene terephthalate, etc.), polypropylene fibers, synthetic fibers such as acrylic fibers, cellulose fibers such as cupra, rayon, cotton, and bamboo fibers, and beasts such as wool. Any fiber such as hair fiber can be used. Further, bright yarn, semi-dull yarn, full-dull yarn and the like formed of these materials can be arbitrarily used. As the cross-sectional shape of the inelastic fiber, any cross-sectional shape such as a round shape, an elliptical shape, a W shape, a cocoon shape, and a hollow fiber can be used. The form of the inelastic yarn is not particularly limited, and a raw yarn and a crimped yarn subjected to false twisting or the like can be used. Further, it can be used as a composite yarn in which long fibers, spun yarns, two or more kinds of fibers are mixed by twisting yarns, coverings, air mixed fibers and the like. The preferred fineness of the inelastic yarn is 20 to 200 dtex.

As the elastic thread, a polyurethane elastic thread is preferably used. As the polyurethane elastic yarn, those obtained by dry spinning or melt spinning can be used. The breaking elongation of the polyurethane elastic yarn is preferably 400 to 1000% in order to have good elasticity when knitted into bottom clothing or the like.
The polymer used for the elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain a good feel and elasticity of the fabric, a side chain such as a 2,2-dimethylpropylene group or a 3-methyltetramethylene group is added to the polyalkylene ether diol component. Those containing a component having the above are preferable. More preferably, it is a polyalkylene ether diol containing a side chain of a 2,2-dimethylpropylene group component. The preferable fineness of the elastic yarn is 20 dtex to 700 dtex.

In addition, compounds usually added to polyurethane elastic yarns, such as ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, light stabilizers, gas-resistant color-resistant agents, chlorine-resistant agents, colorants, matting agents, lubricants, fillers, etc. May be added.

As a dyeing finishing method, a normal dyeing finishing process can be used, and the dyeing conditions are set according to the fiber material used, and the dyeing machine used is arbitrary such as a liquid flow dyeing machine, a beam dyeing machine, a wins dyeing machine, and a paddle dyeing machine. It is also possible to use a processing agent that improves water absorption and flexibility.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to these. The elastic knitted fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were evaluated by the following methods.

(1) Air volume of elastic knitted fabric The air volume of elastic knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 20 cm x 20 cm
Air volume tester: Frazier type air permeability tester (AP-360, Daiei Kagaku Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.)
Measurement: After attaching the test piece to one end of the cylinder of the testing machine, adjust the suction fan and air hole so that the inclined barometer shows a pressure of 125 Pa with an adjusting resistor, and the pressure indicated by the vertical barometer at that time. Was measured. From the measured pressure and the type of air holes used, determine the amount of air passing through the test piece (cm ³ / cm ² / s) using the conversion table attached to the tester, and use the average value of n = 5 for each ventilation. The amount was taken.

により、編地タテ・ヨコ方向におけるそれぞれの平均偏差ＳＭＤを求め、ｎ＝３の平均値を各々の平均偏差とした。尚、Ｌｍａｘは測定時の最大移動距離である。 (2) Average deviation of the roughness of the elastic knitted fabric The average deviation of the roughness of the elastic knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 20 cm x 20 cm
Friction tester: Automated friction tester (KES-FB4A, Kato Tech Co., Ltd.)
SENS (friction): STD
SENS (roughness): STD
Measurement speed: 0.1 cm / s
Static friction load: 50g
Roughness pressurization: 10 gf
Initial tension: 400g
Measurement: The vertical displacement Z (cm) obtained by measuring under the above conditions and its average value:
Using the Z-bar, the following formula:

The mean deviation SMD in each of the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric was obtained, and the average value of n = 3 was taken as each mean deviation. Lmax is the maximum moving distance at the time of measurement.

(3) Stretch stress and stretch stress ratio of each part of the stretchable knitted fabric The stretch stress of the stretchable knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: length 100 mm (excluding grip), width 25 mm
Tensile tester: Tencilon tensile tester (RTC-1210A manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.)
Initial load: 0.1N
Tensile speed: 300 mm / min
Tensile length and measurement: Stretch to 80% elongation, return to the original length (recovery) after stretching at the same speed, repeat stretching and recovery three times under these conditions, and the tensile stress value at the third 80% stretching. Asked. Further, when the stretching stress in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at 80% for the third time at 80% repeated stretching is S2 (cN) and the stretching stress in the horizontal direction is S1 (cN), the following equation:
Stretch stress ratio (-) = S2 / S1
The elongation stress ratio was determined by.

(4) Stretch recovery rate of stretchable knitted fabric The third residual elongation (%) was read from the stretch recovery curve obtained by the stretch stress test method for each part of the stretchable knitted fabric, and the following formula:
Stretch recovery rate (%) = [(80- (residual stretch)) ÷ 80] × 100
Obtained by. The residual elongation is the elongation rate when the load becomes 0 cN at the time of the third recovery.

(5) Measurement of tensile stress of the raw yarn of the elastic yarn The physical characteristics of the raw yarn when determining the strength of the power of the two types of elastic yarn were measured by the following method.
Sample size: Length 100 mm (excluding grip), width varies depending on the thickness of the yarn.
Tensile tester: Tencilon tensile tester (RTC-1210A manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.)
Initial load: 0.1N
Tensile speed: 300 mm / min
Tensile length and measurement: Stretching at a constant speed, the tensile stress value until the elastic yarn broke was determined, and the load at 200% elongation was determined. The magnitude of this load was compared between the two types of elastic yarns, the one with the larger load was designated as the first elastic yarn, and the one with the smaller load was designated as the second elastic yarn.

により、編地タテ・ヨコ方向のそれぞれにて求めた。 (6) 10-point average roughness of the design part in the stretchable knitted fabric (Rz _JIS )
The roughness curve of the design part in the stretchable knitted fabric was measured by the following method.
Sample size: 10 cm x 10 cm
Roughness measuring instrument: One-shot 3D microscope (Keyence Corporation VR-3200)
Magnification: 12 times Evaluation length: Knitted fabric horizontal direction 3 cm, knitted fabric vertical direction 4 cm
Measurement: Measured in the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric under the above conditions, and on the obtained roughness curve, the average of the mountain heights (Zpi) from the highest peak to the fifth from the highest, and the fifth from the deepest valley bottom. _{The ten-point average roughness Rz JIS} , which is the sum of the averages of the valley depths (Zvi) up to, is calculated by the following formula:

Therefore, it was obtained in each of the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric.

(7) Feeling of stuffiness A girdle was prepared using the knitted fabrics obtained in the following Examples and Comparative Examples, and was worn by five panelists. After that, he walked on a treadmill at a speed of 4.0 km / h for 3 minutes, stood up from a chair with knee flexion and extension, and sat down 5 times, crouching from a standing position to a state of holding his knees. After performing the action of standing up five times, a questionnaire survey was conducted. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on the feeling of movement when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
5: No feeling of stuffiness 4: Little feeling of stuffiness 3: Feeling stuffy 2: Feeling slightly stuffy 1: Feeling very stuffy

(8) Touch The test was conducted in the same manner as in the evaluation of the feeling of stuffiness described above. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on the feeling of movement when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
5: Very soft to the touch 4: Good to the touch 3: Not good to the touch, not bad 2: Slightly bad to the touch 1: Bad to the touch

(9) Feeling of operation The test was conducted by the same method as the evaluation of the feeling of stuffiness described above. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on the feeling of movement when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
5: Very easy to move 4: Easy to move 3: Neither easy to move nor difficult to move 2: Slightly difficult to move 1: Difficult to move

(10) Compensation feeling The test was carried out in the same manner as in the evaluation of the stuffiness feeling described above. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on the feeling of compensation when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
5: Very compensating power 4: Slightly compensating power 3: Not enough compensating power but can be experienced 2: Slightly insufficient compensating power 1: No compensating power

(11) Aesthetics The test was conducted in the same manner as in the evaluation of the feeling of stuffiness described above. The questionnaire showed the results of the questionnaire on the aesthetics of the bottom when picked up and worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
5: Feels very beautiful 4: Feels a little beautiful 3: Can't say either 2: Doesn't feel very beautiful 1: Doesn't feel beautiful at all

(12) Comfortability The test was conducted in the same manner as in the evaluation of the stuffiness. The questionnaire shows the results of a questionnaire survey on the feeling of comfort when worn, and was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
5: Very comfortable 4: Comfortable 3: Not comfortable but not unpleasant 2: Somewhat uncomfortable 1: Unpleasant

[Example 1]
Using a 28-gauge jacquard cruschel machine, nylon 33dtex is used as the ground thread (GB1), and the thread (JB2) used for the jacquard is a polyurethane elastic thread having PTMG as the main chain (hereinafter referred to as polyurethane elastic thread A). ) A covering yarn was used in which 22dtex / 2f was used as the core yarn and nylon 56dtex, which is an inelastic yarn, was used as the coating yarn. As elastic yarns for improving elasticity in two directions, polyurethane elastic yarn A235dtex / 18f as the first elastic yarn (GB3) and two elastic yarns (GB4) on the same carbon as the diol component. A 44dt / 4f polyurethane elastic yarn (hereinafter referred to as polyurethane elastic yarn B) 44dtex / 4f containing a polyalkylene ether diol having a methyl group as a side chain was used as an insertion yarn. The thread usage is shown in Table 1 below. As the knitting structure, 63 courses / inch and 84 wells / inch knitted fabric were prepared with the structure shown in FIG. The knitted fabric has a repeating pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeating pattern in the horizontal direction is 45 cm.
As shown in Table 2 below, the air flow rate of the knitted fabric was 270 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD was 5.23 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 6.34 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. .. Further, the extension stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric was 314 cN and the extension stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 306 cN at the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated extension. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extensional stress in the vertical direction to the extensional stress in the horizontal direction, was 1.0. The stretch recovery rate was 96% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 88% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 351 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 332 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, bottom clothing having high operability and aesthetics in addition to stuffiness and touch, and a very comfortable feeling was obtained. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Example 2]
When the knitted fabric of Example 1 was processed, the knitted fabric was processed so as to extend the vertical direction of the knitted fabric by 10% from that of Example 1 to prepare a knitted fabric. The yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below, and the knitting structure is shown in FIG.
As shown in Table 2 below, the airflow of the produced knitted fabric is 322 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 7.21 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 18.32 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. there were. Further, the extension stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric was 409 cN and the extension stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 276 cN at the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated extension. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extensional stress in the vertical direction to the extensional stress in the horizontal direction, was 1.5. The stretch recovery rate was 92% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 91% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 322 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 412 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, a highly comfortable bottom garment having excellent stuffiness, movement, and aesthetics was obtained. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Example 3]
Using a 28-gauge jacquard cruschel machine, nylon 33dtex is used as the ground thread (GB1), the thread (JB2) used for the jacquard is the polyurethane elastic thread A22dtex / 2f as the core thread, and nylon is an inelastic thread. A covering yarn having 56 dtex as a coating yarn was used. As the elastic thread for improving the elasticity in two directions, the polyurethane elastic thread A235dtex / 18f is used as the first elastic thread (GB3), and the polyurethane elastic thread A44dtex / 4f is used as the second elastic thread (GB4). used. The yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below, and the knitting structure is shown in FIG. The knitted fabric has a repeating pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeating pattern in the horizontal direction is 45 cm.
As shown in Table 2 below, the air volume of the created knitted fabric is 197 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 5.15 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 5.72 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. there were. Further, the extension stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric was 323 cN and the extension stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 385 cN at the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated extension. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extensional stress in the vertical direction to the extensional stress in the horizontal direction, was 0.8. The stretch recovery rate was 92% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 89% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 404 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 395 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, a highly comfortable bottom garment having excellent stuffiness, touch and aesthetics was obtained. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Example 4]
Using a 28-gauge jacquard cruschel machine, nylon 33dtex is used as the ground thread (GB1), the thread (JB2) used for the jacquard is the polyurethane elastic thread A22dtex / 2f as the core thread, and nylon is an inelastic thread. A covering yarn having 56 dtex as a coating yarn was used. As the elastic thread for improving the elasticity in two directions, the polyurethane elastic thread A235dtex / 18f is used as the first elastic thread (GB3), and the polyurethane elastic thread B44dtex / 4f is used as the second elastic thread (GB4). used. The knitting structure was changed to a structure that moves between the wells every 5 courses in the chain knitting (GB1) using the inelastic yarn, and the first elastic yarn (GB3) was also made to accompany the main chain knitting. Similarly, the second elastic yarn (GB4) and the jacquard structure were prepared as knitted fabrics as a structure that changes into a structure that moves between wells every 5 courses. The knitted fabric has a repeating pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeating pattern in the horizontal direction is 45 cm. The yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below, and the knitting structure is shown in FIG.
As shown in Table 2 below, the air volume of the created knitted fabric is 350 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 6.81 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 13.02 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. there were. Further, the extension stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric was 279 cN and the extension stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 307 cN at the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated extension. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extensional stress in the vertical direction to the extensional stress in the horizontal direction, was 0.9. The stretch recovery rate was 90% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 87% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 371 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 319 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, highly comfortable bottom garments with excellent stuffiness and aesthetics were obtained. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Example 5]
Using a 28-gauge jacquard cruschel machine, nylon 33dtex is used as the ground thread (GB1), the thread (JB2) used for the jacquard is the polyurethane elastic thread A22dtex / 2f as the core thread, and nylon is an inelastic thread. A covering yarn having 56 dtex as a coating yarn was used. As the elastic thread for improving the elasticity in two directions, the polyurethane elastic thread A310dtex / 36f is used as the first elastic thread (GB3), the polyurethane elastic thread B44dtex / 4f is used as the second elastic thread (GB4), and the polyurethane elastic thread B44dtex / 4f is used as the insertion thread. used. The yarn usage is shown in Table 1 below, and the knitting structure is shown in FIG. The knitted fabric has a repeating pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeating pattern in the horizontal direction is 45 cm.
As shown in Table 2 below, the airflow of the created knitted fabric is 351 ^{cm 3} / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 8.98 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 9.21 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. there were. Further, the elongation stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric was 472 cN and the elongation stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 305 cN at the third 80% during the 80% repeated elongation. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extensional stress in the vertical direction to the extensional stress in the horizontal direction, was 1.5. The stretch recovery rate was 89% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 88% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 451 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 423 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, highly comfortable bottom garments with excellent stuffiness and aesthetics were obtained. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Example 6]
Using a 28-gauge jacquard cruschel machine, nylon 33dtex is used as the ground thread (GB1), the thread (JB2) used for the jacquard is the polyurethane elastic thread A22dtex / 2f as the core thread, and nylon is an inelastic thread. A covering yarn having 56 dtex as a coating yarn was used. As the elastic thread for improving the elasticity in two directions, the polyurethane elastic thread A235dtex / 18f is used as the first elastic thread (GB3), the polyurethane elastic thread B44dtex / 4f is used as the second elastic thread (GB4), and the polyurethane elastic thread B44dtex / 4f is used as the insertion thread. used.
The thread usage is shown in Table 1 below. As for the knitted structure, the knitted fabric was prepared by setting the amount of movement between the wells in the second elastic yarn to 1 well in the structure shown in FIG. The knitted fabric has a repeating pattern in the horizontal direction, and one width of the repeating pattern in the horizontal direction is 45 cm.
As shown in Table 2 below, the airflow of the created knitted fabric is 227 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD is 5.65 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 5.91 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. there were. Further, the extension stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric was 351 cN and the extension stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 361 cN in the third 80% at the time of 80% repeated extension. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the extensional stress in the vertical direction to the extensional stress in the horizontal direction, was 1.1. The stretch recovery rate was 94% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 87% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 352 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 387 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, highly comfortable bottom garments with excellent stuffiness and aesthetics were obtained. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Comparative Example 1]
Using a 20-gauge Raschel knitting machine, nylon 44dtex is used as the ground yarn, nylon 56dtex / 48f, which is an inelastic yarn, is used as the insertion yarn, and 60-count brocade yarn and polyurethane elastic yarn, which are polyurethane, are used as the elastic yarn. A core span yarn yarn made of A235dtex / 18f was prepared and used, and a knitted fabric was prepared with the structure shown in FIG. The thread usage is shown in Table 1 below.
As shown in Table 2 below, the air volume of the obtained knitted fabric was 327 ^{cm 3} / cm ² / s, and the SMD was 11.07 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 20.00 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. Met. At the time of 80% repeated stretching, the stretching stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at the third 80% was 227 cN, and the stretching stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 3686 cN. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the elongation stress to the extension stress in the horizontal direction, was 0.1. The stretch recovery rate was 87% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 44% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design part, it was not possible to measure because there was no handle.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, bottom clothing having excellent stuffiness but low touch, movement and aesthetics, and low comfort was obtained. The main causes are that the mesh holes are large and the skin feels rough, the elongation ratio is poor, and the elongation stress in the vertical direction of the product is high during operation, so it cannot follow the skin extension and causes a feeling of tightness. , It is considered that the aesthetics are low. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

[Comparative Example 2]
Using a 28-gauge Raschel knitting machine, nylon 56dtex is used as the ground yarn, polyurethane elastic yarn A44dtex / 4f is used as the first elastic yarn (GB3), and polyurethane elastic yarn A235dtex / 18f is used as the second elastic yarn (GB3). It was used as GB4). In the knitting structure, as shown in FIG. 5, inelastic yarns (GB1) and (GB2) are threaded into a 1-in-1-out half set, and each is subjected to symmetrical wrapping to form a stitch between 3 wells. A 1-repeat mesh knitted fabric is knitted on the course, and the 1st elastic yarn (GB3) crosses between 3 wells every 3 courses and 6 courses and is inserted as a partial weft yarn, which is thicker than the 1st elastic yarn (GB3). The two elastic yarns (GB4) were knitted by being inserted in a zigzag shape on the same well. The first elastic yarn (GB3) and the second elastic yarn (GB4) were threaded in a full set to prepare a 168-course / 50-well knitted fabric to obtain a mesh-like elastic warp knitted fabric. The thread usage is shown in Table 1 below.
As shown in Table 2 below, the airflow of the obtained knitted fabric was 124 cm ³ / cm ² / s, and the SMD was 8.02 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 14.27 in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. Met. At the time of 80% repeated stretching, the stretching stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at the third 80% was 619 cN, and the stretching stress S1 in the horizontal direction was 679 cN. Therefore, S2 / S1, which is the ratio of the elongation stress to the extension stress in the horizontal direction, was 0.9. The stretch recovery rate was 93% in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 89% in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric. In the ten-point average roughness Rz _JIS of the surface of the design portion, it was 783 μm in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric and 769 μm in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric.
Using the obtained knitted fabric, a girdle was sewn and a wearing test was performed. As shown in Table 3 below, bottom clothing with low comfort was obtained. It is considered that this cause is that the tissue becomes dense, the feeling of stuffiness is poor, and the roughness peculiar to the mesh is unpleasant in order to obtain excellent stretching characteristics. When producing the girdle, the product was produced by using the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric in the vertical direction (height direction) of the product.

By using the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention, in addition to reducing stuffiness and being excellent in touch when worn, it is comfortable to wear due to its good movement followability and movement feeling while sufficiently obtaining the effect of body shape correction. It is possible to obtain bottom clothing having sex.
In addition, the elastic knitted fabric of the present invention is not limited to body shape-repairing clothing such as girdles, but by being used for inner wear that adheres to the body, in addition to reducing stuffiness when worn and being excellent in touch, it also operates. It is possible to obtain clothing that is highly comfortable to wear due to its good followability and movement feeling.

Claims (3)

Aeration is 130~500cm ³ / ^cm 2 / s, and Ri knitted longitudinal direction or knitted fabric transverse direction of the roughness average deviation (SMD) is 10.0 der less, chain knitting by inelastic yarn Moves between wells at odd intervals of 3 to 7 courses, and when one elastic yarn is stretched at a constant speed, the elongation rate is 200%, which is the magnitude of the load value. The elastic yarn is inserted, the elastic yarn with higher power is the structure accompanying the inelastic yarn, and the elastic yarn with lower power is between the rows of the chain knitting structure by the inelastic yarn accompanied by the elastic yarn. An elastic warp knitted fabric having a structure for moving 1 to 3 wells and including an insertion structure for each course swing, which reciprocates between two vertical chain knits with a covering yarn. .. When the stretch stress in the horizontal direction of the knitted fabric is S1 and the stretch stress in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric is S2 at the time of the third 80% stretch at the time of 80% repeated stretching, S2 / S1 is 0.8 to 2.0. The elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1. The stretchable warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the elongation stress S2 in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric at the third 80% during 80% repeated stretching is 250 cN to 450 cN.

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