JP6901109B2 - How to make cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic having high moisturizing properties and high absorption of oil-soluble active ingredients.

It is people's desire to keep the skin youthful forever, and as a solution to this, highly effective ingredients have been developed. On the other hand, the dosage forms are also diversified in various ways, including the effective use of the ingredients.
In recent years, the use of sheet-type cosmetics, which improve the effectiveness due to the blocking effect by adhering a sheet impregnated with an active ingredient or the like to the skin, has been increasing.
As for such sheet-shaped cosmetics, in addition to those having an advantage in the material of the sheet for the purpose of improving the effectiveness, those in which the cosmetic to be impregnated is devised are known. (Patent Documents 1 to 5)
However, there is a demand for a more effective preparation.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 11-029434 Special Publication No. 2004-529093 Special Publication No. 2005-535677 International Publication No. 06/016601 International Publication No. 09/148408

An object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic having high moisturizing properties and high absorption of oil-soluble active ingredients.

As a result of diligent studies by the present inventors, it was found that the following cosmetics solve the problem.
A cosmetic in which a solution containing the following components is dispersed in a dispersion of a polyhydric alcohol containing 60% by weight or more of glycerin, an oil-soluble vitamin, and a sugar ceramide.
(A) Phospholipid polymer (B) Collagen (C) N-acylglutamic acid diester (D) Polyhydric alcohol (E) Water Further, a sheet whose effectiveness is improved by impregnating the sheet with the above cosmetics. It was found that cosmetics are effective in solving problems.
It will be described in detail below.

First, a polyhydric alcohol containing 60% by weight or more of glycerin, an oil-soluble vitamin, and a finely dispersed sugar ceramide will be described.
The polyhydric alcohol can be used without particular limitation as long as it can be generally used in the fields of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and the like. Specifically, for example, glycerin, diglycerin, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, trimethylolpropane, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glucose, martose, martitol, sugar, etc. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, fructoose, xylitol, inositol, pentaerythritol, mannitol, sorbitol, maltotriol, and slateol.
Glycerin is blended in an amount of 60% by weight or more of the polyhydric alcohol. Further, the polyhydric alcohol is blended in an amount of 70 to 99.5% by weight based on the dispersion.

Oil-soluble vitamins are selected from vitamin A, provitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E, oil-soluble vitamin B derivatives, and oil-soluble vitamin C derivatives.
For example, retinol, retinal (vitamin A1), dehydroretinal (vitamin A2), retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, methyl retinoate, ethyl retinoate, retinol retinoate, retinol linoleate, tocopheryl retinoate, hydrogenated retinol, α-carotene, β-carotene, γ-carotene, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, astaxanthin, isozeaxanthin, rhodoxanthin, capsantin, crocetin, ergocalciferol (vitamin D2), cholecalciferol (vitamin D3), dihydrotaxterol, Ascorbyl tetra2-hexyldecanoate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, pyridoxin dicaproate, pyridoxin tristearate, tocopherols, tocotrienol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol succinate, tocopherol succinate, tocopherol nicotinate Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, tocopherol acid and tocopherol linoleate.
Furthermore, Vitamin A and its oil-soluble derivatives, Vitamin D and its oil-soluble derivatives, Vitamin E and its oil-soluble derivatives, Vitamin C's oil-soluble derivatives, Vitamin B ₃ (nicotinic acid) oil-soluble derivatives, Vitamin B ₆ ( It was found that a more effective cosmetic product can be obtained by blending three or more kinds selected from the oil-soluble derivatives of pyridoxin).
The oil-soluble vitamin is blended in an amount of 0.2 to 30% by weight based on the dispersion.
Examples of sugar ceramides include glucoceramides and galactosylceramides, such as those extracted from mammalian tissues such as cows and horses, those derived from plants obtained from rice bran, and those obtained by chemical synthesis.

The sugar ceramide is added in an amount of 0.3 to 40% by weight based on the dispersion.
Other substances may be blended in the dispersion, but they can be blended in a range of about 20% by weight or less of the dispersion.
These are heated as needed and dispersed using a stirrer. It has been found that it is more effective to disperse using a high-pressure disperser and make the particles as fine as possible, depending on the type and amount of the raw materials to be blended.
The above dispersion is dispersed in a solution containing at least the components (A) to (E).
The amount to be dispersed is 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 10% by weight of the total cosmetics.

The phospholipid polymer of (A) is polymethacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine / butylmethacrylate copolymer, 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcholine / butylmethacrylate / sodium methacrylate copolymer, 2-. Examples thereof include a 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloyloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, a 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, and a stearyl methacrylate copolymer, and 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine. The stearyl methacrylate copolymer is most preferable.
The blending amount is 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 2.0% by weight of the cosmetic.

The origin of collagen (B) includes beasts such as cattle and pigs, as well as organisms such as fish, shellfish, jellyfish, and sponges, and marine products such as fish, shellfish, jellyfish, and sponges. It is preferable to use collagen of biological origin.
Derivatives can also be used, and specifically, atelolation, acylation, succinylation, or derivatization of two or more, that is, derivatization such as succinyl atelolation can be selected.
Of these, collagen derived from shellfish, especially Akoya pearl oysters, was effective, and collagen derived from succinyl-ateroized Akoya pearl oysters was the most effective.
The amount of collagen blended is preferably 0.00001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.00005 to 2.0% by weight, as a solid content with respect to the cosmetic.

Examples of the N-acylglutamic acid diester of (C) include N-lauroyl glutamic acid di (phytosteryl / 2-octyldodecyl) and N-lauroyl glutamic acid di (phytosteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl).
The blending amount is 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 0.03 to 2.0% by weight of the cosmetic.
The polyhydric alcohol (D) is not particularly limited, but for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, higher polyethylene glycols, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, higher polypropylene glycols, 1, Butylene glycols such as 3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, more polyglycerins, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, and martitol, and ethylene oxide of glycerins (hereinafter, EO), propylene oxide (hereinafter abbreviated as PO) adduct, EO of sugar alcohols, PO adduct, monosaccharides such as galactose, glucose, fructose and many of their EO, PO adducts, maltose, lactose, etc. Examples thereof include saccharides and polyhydric alcohols such as EO and PO adducts thereof, and the blending amount is preferably 3 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 20% by weight of the O / W type emulsion.
Of course, water is also an important compounding component, and is compounded as (E).
Select as needed for purified water, hot spring water, etc.

In addition to (A) to (E), it can be blended as long as it can be used as a raw material for cosmetics, and it may be an aqueous liquid, an oil phase component may be blended, and it may be in an emulsion state.
Examples of oil phase components include natural animal and vegetable fats and oils such as olive oil, mink oil, castor oil, palm oil, beef fat, evening primrose oil, palm oil, castor oil, cacao oil, macadamia nut oil, etc .; waxes such as jojoba oil, honeybee, etc. Lanorin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, etc .; higher alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, etc .; higher fatty acids such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, solid paraffin, squalane, vaseline, selecin, Microcrystalin wax and the like; synthetic ester oils such as butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl isooctanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate; silicone derivatives such as Examples thereof include silicone oils such as methyl silicone and methyl phenyl silicone.
Furthermore, it is effective for this preparation to add an oil-soluble active ingredient to this.
The oil-soluble active ingredient is not particularly limited, and can be blended with oil-soluble vitamins blended in the dispersion and sugar ceramide, and further, ceramide, oil-soluble licorice, glycyrrhetinic acid, oil-soluble coenzyme extract and oil-soluble rose. Examples include marie extract, clonidine, scopolamine, propranolol, estradiol, phenylpropanolamine hydrochloride, uvine, atropine, haloperidol, isosorbide, nitroglycerin, ibuprofen, ubiquinone, indomethacin, steroids and the like.

Surfactants include anionic surfactants (alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl phosphates), cationic surfactants (alkylamines, alkyl quaternary ammonium salts), and amphoteric surfactants. Activators: Carboxylic acid type amphoteric surfactants (amino type, betaine type), sulfuric acid ester type amphoteric surfactants, sulfonic acid type amphoteric surfactants, phosphoric acid ester type amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants (ether) Type nonionic surfactant, ether ester type nonionic surfactant, ester type nonionic surfactant, block polymer type nonionic surfactant, nitrogen-containing nonionic surfactant), other surfactants (natural) Examples thereof include surfactants, derivatives of protein hydrolysates, polymer surfactants, surfactants containing titanium / silicon, and fluorocarbon-based surfactants).

Further, exemplifying the aqueous phase component, ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxyethyl cellulose, sodium carboxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, nitrocellulose, crystalline cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl methacrylate, Polyacrylates, (glycerylamide ethyl methacrylate / stearyl methacrylate) copolymers, polyalkylene oxides such as polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide or crosslinked polymers thereof, gums such as carboxyvinyl polymers and polyethyleneimine, sugars or highly water-soluble Molecular compounds; mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratane sulfate, heparin; betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, β-alanine, Threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, tryptophan, histidine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosin, creatin, etc. Amino acids and their salts and derivatives; hydrolyzed peptides such as keratin, collagen, elastin, conchiolin, silk, soybean protein, wheat protein, casein or water-soluble derivatives thereof; vitamin Cs such as ascorbic acid and salts thereof such as sodium; Ascorbic acid alkyl ether such as ethyl ascorbic acid ether, ascorbic acid glucoside such as ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and its fatty acid ester, ascorbic acid phosphate sodium salt and ascorbic acid phosphate ester magnesium salt, palmitoyl ascorbic acid phosphate sodium Salts, ascorbic acid derivatives such as ascorbic acid phosphates such as tocopheryl ascorbyl phosphate; thiamine hydrochloride, thiamine sulfate, riboflavin, riboflavin acetate, pyridoxin hydrochloride, flavin adenine dinucleotide, cyanocobalamine, folic acids, nicotinic acid, Nicotinic acids such as nicotinic acid amide, vitamin B group such as choline; other bibi such as pantothenic acid, pantenyl ethyl ether, pantenol, biotin, etc. Tamines; Water-soluble vitamin Es such as tocopherol phosphate ester; Hydroquinone glycosides such as arbutin and α-arbutin and their esters; Derivatives, placenta extract, acetylglucosamine, glutathione, glycyrrhizinic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, hinokithiol, guaiazulene, allantin, indomethacin, caffeine, α-lipoic acid, rutin and glycoside derivatives; Derivatives such as glycosides; various plant extracts such as Guava and Nishikawayanagi extract can be mentioned.
The manufacturing method is created by performing operations such as heating, stirring, and cooling according to a standard method.
In addition, the sheet can be used as long as it is a material that absorbs cosmetics and retains it to some extent, and natural fibers such as cotton, silk, wool, polyester, rayon, polyolefin, polyethylene terephthalate, and synthetic fibers are mixed alone or mixed as needed. A sheet material selected from the water-absorbent non-woven fabric, woven fabric, paper and the like used in the above can be used.

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.
Example 1
Dispersion Note 1) 10.0
Aqueous phase component 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphory 0.5
Lucolin / stearyl methacrylate copolymer Collagen Note 2) 0.5
1,3 Butylene glycol 7.0
Dipropylene glycol 3.0
Water 60.0
Decaglycerin monostearate 0.5
Oil phase component N-lauroyl glutamate di (Phytos 1.5)
Terrill / Behenil / 2-octyldodecyl)
Squalene 2.0
Hydrogenated soy lecithin 0.5

After weighing each of the aqueous phase component and the oil phase component, the mixture was heated to 70 ° C. and stirred, and the oil phase component was gradually added to the aqueous phase component with stirring. The dispersion was added thereto, and the mixture was cooled to room temperature while stirring.

The notes of Example 1 will be described below.
For the dispersion of Note 1), the following raw materials were heated to 70 ° C., treated once with a high-pressure emulsifier (Starburst Mini manufactured by Sugino Machine Limited) at 180 MPa, and then cooled to room temperature.
Glycerin 65.0
Diglycerin 5.0
1,3 Butylene glycol 5.0
Sugar ceramide (Note 1) 5.0
α-tocopherol 5.0
β-carotene 5.0
Pyrodoxin trihexyldecanoate 5.0
Alcorvir tetrahexyldecanoate 5.0
Note 2) used a 1% aqueous solution of succinyl atelolated collagen derived from pearl oyster meat.
This cosmetic was impregnated into a non-woven fabric (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation, trade name Benlyse NE55G).

Effectiveness confirmation test 1
Ten women used Example 1 on the right half of the face and Comparative Example on the left half once a day for 30 minutes.
As a method of use, a non-woven fabric of 5 × 10 cm (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., trade name Benlyse NE55G) was impregnated.
After using this for one month, take a questionnaire on the items of moist feeling, rough skin prevention, whitening, and skin texture according to the following criteria, and the average value of the results is described below.

-3 = The comparative example was considerably better.
-2 = The comparative example was better.
-1 = The comparative example was slightly better.
± 0 = There was no difference.
+1 = Example 1 was slightly better.
+2 = Example 1 was better.
+3 = Example 1 was considerably better.

Moist feeling = 2.4
Rough skin prevention = 1.8
Whitening = 1.4
Skin texture = 1.7

In the comparative example, the dispersion Note 1) of Example 1 is not divided, and the aqueous phase component and the oil phase component are used as a whole. After weighing, the aqueous phase component is heated to 70 ° C. and stirred, and the aqueous phase component is mixed with the oil phase. The ingredients were added with gradual stirring. This was cooled to room temperature.

Effectiveness confirmation test 2
Thirty minutes after entering the room in a constant temperature and humidity chamber at 23 ° C. and 65% humidity, the water content of the inner part of the forearm was measured at four places, and Example 1, Comparative Example, and another company's product having a size of 3 × 3 cm were placed for 5 minutes. (One place is uncoated)
Moisture values were measured after 10 minutes, 30 and 60 minutes. (Skin surface stratum corneum water content measuring device (IBS SKICON-200))
The results are shown in Table 1.

As described above, a preparation was obtained that is highly effective in each of the items of moisturizing feeling, prevention of rough skin, whitening, and texture of the skin, and greatly increases the water content of the surface stratum corneum.

Claims (5)

A method for producing a cosmetic product in which a polyhydric alcohol containing 60% by weight or more of glycerin, an oil-soluble vitamin, and a sugar ceramide are dispersed in a solution containing the following components.
(A) Phospholipid polymer (B) Collagen (C) N-acylglutamic acid diester (D) Polyhydric alcohol (E) Water Sheet cosmetic method for producing cause impregnation of the obtained cosmetic produced by the process of claim 1 into a sheet. Oil-soluble vitamins are more than vitamin A and its oil-soluble derivatives, vitamin D and its oil-soluble derivatives, vitamin E and its oil-soluble derivatives, vitamin C oil-soluble derivatives, vitamin B3 oil-soluble derivatives, and vitamin B6 oil-soluble derivatives. The method for producing a cosmetic or a sheet-shaped cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 2, which is three or more selected. The invention according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the N-acylglutamic acid diester is N-lauroyl glutamate di (phytosteryl / 2-octyldodecyl) or N-lauroyl glutamic acid di (phytosteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl). Method for manufacturing cosmetics or sheet-shaped cosmetics. The method for producing a cosmetic or sheet-shaped cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the phospholipid polymer is a 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine / stearyl methacrylate copolymer.