JP7101027B2 - Textiles and clothing - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a woven fabric and a garment containing a hollow polyester multifilament, which is soft in texture, is lightweight, and has excellent down resistance.

Polyester fiber has various excellent properties including mechanical properties, and is used in various applications and fields including clothing applications. However, it has been said that it is harder in texture and less preferable in terms of tactile sensation than natural fibers. Therefore, recently, in order to improve the functionality of the polyester fiber, the polymer has been modified to increase the lightness, improve the fibril property, and improve the deep color property. In particular, for sports clothing applications, light weight and strength of fabrics have been required.

In order to realize its light weight, the spinneret is made hollow to make it a high hollow rate fiber, or a polyvinyl alcohol-based resin is added to the center using a composite fiber (usually called conjugate spinning) device. However, various methods have been proposed in which the resin is eluted after spinning and winding to increase the hollowness ratio of the substantial polyester fiber and to develop lightness (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

However, as a method for producing hollow fibers, a method for producing a yarn by changing the shape of the base so as to achieve a high hollow ratio requires a technique for laminating a polymer to be melt-discharged from a mouthpiece discharge hole (the base design itself). Since it becomes difficult to stably perform the bonding, it is difficult to perform stable production in which the occurrence of spinning yarn breakage is suppressed when an attempt is made to achieve an excessively high hollow ratio. Further, with respect to the composite fiber, the hollow formation rate after eluting the hollow forming agent is certainly high, but the cost is significantly high. In addition, it is difficult for long fibers to completely elute. Further, as described above, good fibers have not been obtained in terms of texture.

Further, a cross section aimed at light weight consisting of a core portion having a hollow cross section orthogonal to the fiber axis and a fin portion protruding from the outer surface of the core portion and extending along the length direction of the core portion. However, such a cross section has a low hollow ratio and a low void ratio in a multifilament state, resulting in inferior lightness (see, for example, Patent Documents 2 and 3).

Further, the aim is to reduce the weight of the core portion having a hollow cross section orthogonal to the fiber axis and the fin portion protruding from the outer surface of the core portion and extending along the length direction of the core portion. A cross section has been proposed, but since such a cross section has a small number of fins and is a highly atypical cross section, the silk factor (strength × √ elongation) of the fiber becomes low, and fluffing and cross section in the drawing process are generated. There is a problem that the hollowness ratio and the void ratio are greatly reduced due to the deformation of the above (see, for example, Patent Document 4).

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2002-173824 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 9-241941 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2001-115334 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2008-57060

The present invention has been made in view of the above background, and an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric and a garment containing a hollow polyester multifilament, which is soft in texture, is lightweight, and has excellent down pullability.

As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above problems, the present inventors can obtain a woven fabric that is soft in texture, lightweight, and has excellent down-removal prevention property by skillfully devising the threads and the like constituting the woven fabric. This was found, and further diligent studies led to the completion of the present invention.

Thus, according to the present invention, "a hollow polyester multifilament satisfying the following requirements is included.
a) The cross-sectional shape orthogonal to the fiber axis of the constituent single yarn has a hollow core portion.
b) The length of the core portion that protrudes radially from the outer surface of the core portion to the center point of the core portion.
Have 8 or more fins extending along the direction.
c) The total fineness is 80 dtex or less.
The air permeability is 1.7 cc / cm ² · s or more, and
The cover factor CF of the woven fabric is in the range of 1200 to 2800.
The tear strength in the warp or weft direction is 7N or more, and the tear strength is 7N or more.
The slip resistance is 3 mm or less,
Water repellent finish,
Calendar processing is applied,
A woven fabric having a basis weight of 100 g / m ² or less . Is provided.
However, the air permeability shall be measured by JIS L 1096-2010 8.26 A method (Frazil method).
However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm). ]
However, the tear strength shall be measured by the JIS L 1096-2010 8.17 D method.
However, the slip resistance shall be measured by JIS L 1096-2010 8.23 B method (load 117.7N).
Further, GBT 1270.1-2009 textile down dropout test method Part 1: It is preferable that the down dropout by the friction method is 50 or less. Further, Rotating Box IDFL20-1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) is preferably 5 (0-5 Particles).
Further, according to the present invention, clothing made of the above-mentioned woven fabric is provided.

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric and a garment containing a hollow polyester multifilament, which is soft in texture, is lightweight, and has excellent down resistance.

It is a schematic diagram of the cross section orthogonal to the fiber axis of a hollow polyester multifilament single yarn. It is a schematic diagram of the cross section orthogonal to the fiber axis of a hollow polyester multifilament. It is a schematic diagram of the discharge hole in the spinneret for manufacturing a hollow polyester multifilament.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail. First, in the present invention, the polyester forming the hollow polyester multifilament contains terephthalic acid as a main dicarboxylic acid component, and ethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1 A polyester containing 80% by weight or more, preferably 90% by weight or more of a polyester containing an alkylene glycol as a main diol component such as 6-hexanediol. For example, an aromatic dicarboxylic acid component such as isophthalic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, or diphenyldicarboxylic acid, or another glycol component different from the above may be copolymerized. The intrinsic viscosity of the polyester (measured at 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent) is preferably in the range of 0.55 to 0.80 in the same category as the polyester usually used as a cloth material for clothing. Further, if necessary, an additive such as a matting agent, an antistatic agent, a stabilizer, or an additive capable of forming fine pores or fibril on the fiber surface by reducing the amount of alkali may be contained.

In the hollow polyester multifilament, the single yarn has a hollow core portion having a hollow cross section orthogonal to the fiber axis, and protrudes radially from the outer surface of the core portion to the center point of the core portion and is in the length direction of the core portion. It is composed of 8 or more (preferably 8 to 12) fin portions extending along the line.

As shown in FIG. 1 as a single yarn cross-sectional shape, the hollow polyester multifilament has a core portion having a hollow cross section orthogonal to the fiber axis and a radial shape from the outer surface of the core portion to the center point of the core portion. It is necessary to have a shape consisting of eight or more fin portions that project to the core portion and extend along the length direction of the core portion. It should be noted that although FIG. 1 shows eight fin portions, it is needless to say that the number is not limited to eight.

The shape of the hollow portion of the core portion is preferably a square hollow, and high bonding properties between the discharged polymers at each discharge slit of the spinneret as shown in FIG. 3 can be obtained, and the desired single yarn cross section can be stably obtained. You can get the shape.

When the shape of the hollow portion of the core portion is round and hollow, the cross-sectional deformation of the single yarn due to poor bonding at the time of spinning may occur frequently, and the process passability due to the yarn breakage may be significantly reduced. Next, a multifilament state is formed by forming a shape consisting of eight or more fin portions extending radially from the outer surface of the core portion to the center point of the core portion and extending along the length direction of the core portion. It is possible to obtain a high volume exclusion effect due to interference between single yarns in the above, and to obtain the desired void formation rate.

In the hollow polyester multifilament, it is important that the total fineness is 80 dtex or less (more preferably 10 to 45 dtex, particularly preferably 12 to 38 dtex). If the total fineness is larger than 80 dtex, lightness may not be obtained.

Further, in the hollow polyester multifilament, the number of single yarns is preferably 10 or more (more preferably 10 to 40). If the number of single yarns is less than 10, the volume elimination effect due to the attachment of fins is not sufficient, and the desired soft texture and light weight may not be obtained.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the hollow polyester multifilament is arranged on at least one of warp and weft (preferably warp and weft). Here, it is preferable that the composite yarn is contained in an amount of 70% by weight or more (particularly preferably 100% by weight) with respect to the total weight of the woven fabric. It is important that the present invention has a woven fabric structure. In the case of knitted fabric, there is a possibility that excellent down-removal prevention property cannot be obtained.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the woven fabric structure of the woven fabric is not limited. For example, three original textures such as plain weave, diagonal weave, satin weave, change texture, change texture such as change diagonal weave, single double texture such as warp double weave, weft double weave, and vertical velvet are exemplified. Ru. Among them, plain weave (taffeta) and ripstop structure (for example, the ground structure is plain weave and the center of the lips adjacent to each other) have many texture points where the warp and weft intersect in order to obtain excellent down slip prevention. A structure in which a lattice pattern is formed with a central spacing of about 4 to 8 mm) is preferable. In particular, it is preferable to adopt a ripstop structure because not only the water pressure resistance of the woven fabric but also the tear strength is improved. The number of layers may be a single layer or may be two or more layers. Further, the weaving method may be a normal method using a normal loom (for example, a normal water jet room, an air jet room, a rapier room, etc.).

In such a woven fabric, when the cover factor CF of the woven fabric defined by the following formula is in the range of 1200 to 2800, further excellent physical properties and functionality can be obtained, which is preferable.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1 ^{) 1/2} x MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm).

It is preferable that the fabric is water repellent. At that time, the type of water repellent is not particularly limited. For example, a fluorine-based compound, a hydrocarbon-based compound, a silicone-based compound, and the like are exemplified. If necessary, an antistatic agent, a melamine resin, and a catalyst are mixed to make a processing agent having a water repellent concentration of about 3 to 15% by weight, a pickup rate of about 50 to 90%, and a woven fabric using the processing agent. It is preferable to treat the surface of. Examples of the method for treating the surface of the woven fabric with the processing agent include a pad method and a spray method. Of these, the pad method is preferable for allowing the processing agent to penetrate into the inside of the woven fabric. The pickup rate is the weight ratio (%) of the processing agent to the weight of the woven fabric (before the processing agent is applied).

Examples of the antistatic agent include a polyester resin containing a polyethylene glycol group, a urethane resin containing a polyethylene glycol group, a reaction product of a polycationic compound containing a polyethylene glycol group and diglycidyl ether, and the like. preferable. Anionic surfactants such as higher alcohol sulfate ester salts, sulfated oils, sulfonates and phosphoric acid ester salts, cationic surfactants such as amine salt type, quaternary ammonium salt and imidazole type quaternary salt, polyethylene glycol It may be a nonionic surfactant such as a type or a polyhydric alcohol ester type, or an antistatic compound such as an amphoteric surfactant such as an imidazole type quaternary salt, an alanine type or a betaine type.

Further, if the anionic compound is fixed before the water-repellent treatment, the adhesiveness of the cationic water-repellent agent is improved and the durability is improved. Examples of the anionic compound include a sulfone group-containing compound and a phenolic compound.

The heat treatment is preferably performed at a temperature of 50 to 180 ° C. for 0.1 to 30 minutes, and at least one of a dry heat treatment and a wet heat treatment is preferably performed. It may be a steam heat treatment. In such steaming heat treatment, saturated steam or superheated steam at 80 to 160 ° C. is preferably used. At that time, the processing time is preferably in the range of several seconds to several tens of minutes. After performing such a steam heat treatment, water washing, hot water washing or reduction washing may be performed as necessary.

Further, it is preferable to perform calendar processing on the woven fabric in at least one of the pre-process and the post-process of the water-repellent processing step, because excellent down pull-out property can be obtained. At that time, the conditions for calendar processing are preferably in the range of a temperature of 130 ° C. or higher (more preferably 140 to 195 ° C.) and a linear pressure of 200 to 20000 N / cm (more preferably 200 to 1000 N / cm).

Further, in at least one of the pre-process and the post-process of the water-repellent processing step, a conventional dyeing process, an alkali weight loss process, and a brushing process may be performed. Further, an ultraviolet shielding agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a phosphorescent agent, a retroreflective agent, a negative ion generating agent and the like may be additionally applied.

Since the hollow polyester multifilament described above is used in the woven fabric thus obtained, a large number of voids (C) can be formed in the fiber cross section (B), and as a result, the apparent specific gravity of the fiber is lowered and the fiber is formed. -It is a woven fabric that is extremely lightweight and has a soft texture as a fabric. Furthermore, the fins (A) make the woven fabric excellent in breathability and down prevention.

Here, it is preferable that the basis weight of the woven fabric is 100 g / m ² or less (more preferably 20 to 50 g / m ² ). Further, in such a woven fabric, the air permeability measured by the JIS L 1096-2010 8.26 A method (Frazil method) is preferably 0.5 cc or more. Further, in such a woven fabric, it is preferable that the tear strength in the warp direction or the weft direction measured by the JIS L 1096-2010 8.17 D method is 7 N or more. Further, in such a woven fabric, GB T 1275.1-2009 textile down dropout test method Part 1: It is preferable that the down dropout by the friction method is 50 or less. Further, in such a woven fabric, Rotating Box IDFL20-1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) is preferably 5 (0-5 Particles).

The garment of the present invention is a garment made of the above-mentioned woven fabric. Such garments include shirts, pants and shorts worn as outerwear or underwear for various sports. It doesn't matter whether it's for competition or training. Examples include soccer shirts, golf shirts, tennis shirts, basket shirts, table tennis shirts, badminton shirts, running shirts, soccer pants, tennis pants, basket pants, table tennis pants, badminton pants, running pants, golf pants, and various sports underwear. Includes shirts, innerwear for various sports, sweaters, T-shirts, jerseys, trainers, windbreakers, etc.

In particular, it is preferable to use the above-mentioned woven fabric as a side material for clothing. In addition, since such a woven fabric is soft in texture, lightweight, and excellent in preventing down feathers, it may be used as a down feather side such as a futon side.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. In addition, each item in an Example was obtained by the following method.
(1) Metsuke of woven fabric The basis weight (g / m ² ) of the woven fabric was measured by JIS L1096-2010 8.3.
(2) Cover factor The cover factor CF of the woven fabric was calculated by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm).
(3) Water repellency JIS L 1092-2009 7.2 The water repellency (class) was measured by the water repellency test (spray method).
(4) Air permeability JIS L 1096-1998 6.27. 1 The air permeability (cc / cm ² · s) was measured by the A method (Frazil type air permeability tester method). The n number was 5, and the average was calculated.
(5) Tear strength of the woven fabric The tear strength (N) was measured by the JIS L 1096-2010 8.17 D method.
(6) Sliding resistance of the fabric The sliding resistance (mm) was measured by the JIS L 1096-2010 8.23 B method (load 117.7N).
(7) Down dropout prevention property GB T 1275.1-2009 Textile textile Down dropout test method Part 1: Friction method was measured.
(8) Down dropout prevention Rotating Box IDFL20-1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) measured 5 (0-5 Particles).

[Example 1]
Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 was melted at 285 ° C. and discharged from a spinneret having 12 discharge holes shown in FIG. After cooling, the discharged yarn was oiled with an oiling nozzle and wound at a speed of 3000 m / min. The obtained partially undrawn yarn was stretched 1.5 times at a temperature of 80 ° C., and then heat-set at a temperature of 200 ° C. to obtain 22 dtex (12 single yarns) polyester fiber (perpendicular to the fiber axis of the constituent single yarn). The cross-sectional shape has a hollow core portion, and has eight fin portions that protrude radially from the outer surface of the core portion to the center point of the core portion and extend along the length direction of the core portion). Obtained.

The resulting polyester fibers were then placed on the warp and weft to weave a woven fabric with a lip structure using a conventional water jet room loom. Then, the woven fabric was dyed dark blue with a disperse dye at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, and subjected to a normal water-repellent treatment and a calendar.

In the woven fabric thus obtained, the texture is 43 g / m ² , the warp density is 207 / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 171 / 2.54 cm, the cover factor is 1681, the water repellency is 4th grade, and the air permeability is 1.7 cc / cm ² .・ S, tear strength in the warp and weft directions of 7 N or more, slip resistance of 3 mm or less, GB T 12705.1-2009 Textile textile down removal test method Part 1: 50 or less down removal by friction method, Rotating Box IDFL20 -1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) was 5 (0-5 Particles), and it was a woven fabric that was extremely lightweight and had a soft texture, and was lightweight and had excellent anti-down resistance.

[Example 2]
A polyester multifilament having a total fineness of 24 dtex / 18 fil was used as the warp, and the same polyester fiber as the yarn used in Example 1 was used as the weft, and a woven fabric having a lip structure was woven using a normal water jet room loom. Then, the woven fabric was dyed dark blue with a disperse dye at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, and subjected to a normal water-repellent treatment and a calendar. In the woven fabric thus obtained, the texture is 43 g / m ² , the warp density is 210 lines / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 174 lines / 2.54 cm, the cover factor is 1750, the water repellency is 4th grade, and the air permeability is 1.8 cc / cm ² .・ S, tear strength in the warp and weft directions of 7 N or more, slip resistance of 3 mm or less, GB T 12705.1-2009 Textile textile down removal test method Part 1: 50 or less down removal by friction method, Rotating Box IDFL20 -1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) was 5 (0-5 Particles), and it was a woven fabric that was extremely lightweight and had a soft texture, and was lightweight and had excellent anti-down resistance.

[Comparative Example 1]
A polyester multifilament (round cross section) with a total fineness of 44 dtex / 20 fil was used to weave a woven fabric with a lip structure. Then, the woven fabric was dyed dark blue with a disperse dye at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, and subjected to a normal water-repellent treatment and a calendar. In the woven fabric thus obtained, the texture is 85 g / m ² , the warp density is 148 / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 121 / 2.54 cm, the cover factor is 1701, the water repellency is 4th grade, and the tear strength in the warp and weft directions. The slip resistance was 7 N or more and the slip resistance was 3 mm or less, but the air permeability was 0.5 cc / cm ² · s or less, GB T 12705.1-2009 Textile textile down removal test method Part 1: Down removal by friction method was 50. As mentioned above, the Rotating Box IDFL20-1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) was 4 (6-11 Particles), which was inferior in the down pull-out prevention property.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, a woven fabric and a garment containing a hollow polyester multifilament, which is soft in texture, is lightweight and has excellent down-removal prevention property are provided, and the industrial value thereof is extremely large.

Claims (4)

Contains hollow polyester multifilament that meets the following requirements ,
a) The cross-sectional shape orthogonal to the fiber axis of the constituent single yarn has a hollow core portion.
b) The length of the core portion that protrudes radially from the outer surface of the core portion to the center point of the core portion.
Have 8 or more fins extending along the direction.
c) The total fineness is 80 dtex or less.
The air permeability is 1.7 cc / cm ² · s or more, and
The cover factor CF of the woven fabric is in the range of 1200 to 2800.
The tear strength in the warp or weft direction is 7N or more, and the tear strength is 7N or more.
The slip resistance is 3 mm or less,
Water repellent finish,
Calendar processing is applied,
A woven fabric having a basis weight of 100 g / m ² or less .
However, the air permeability shall be measured by JIS L 1096-2010 8.26 A method (Frazil method).
However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWp + (DWf / 1.1) ^1/2 x MWf
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weft density (book / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weft density (book / 2.54 cm). ]
However, the tear strength shall be measured by the JIS L 1096-2010 8.17 D method.
However, the slip resistance shall be measured by JIS L 1096-2010 8.23 B method (load 117.7N). GB T 1275.1-2009 Woven Fabric Textile Down Removal Test Method Part 1: The woven fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the number of down removal by the friction method is 50 or less. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the Rotating Box IDFL20-1 (Modified FTMS191-5530) is 5 (0-5 Particles). Clothing made of the woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3 .

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