JP7301501B2 - Composition for keratin fibers - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to compositions for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

In the field of hair cosmetic treatments, leave-on type and rinse-off type hair cosmetics are an important segment in the hair care category, and consumers use these hair cosmetics to give their hair smoothness, Provides a moist feeling, volume control, and the like.

Leave-on type hair cosmetics contain significant amounts of silicones, which can be divided into two categories: volatile and non-volatile silicones. Typically, leave-on type hair cosmetics contain a relatively large amount of volatile silicone and a relatively small amount of non-volatile silicone.

On the other hand, there is a trend in cosmetics to reduce the amount of volatile silicones in cosmetics. Volatile silicones in hair cosmetics, eg of the leave-on type, have therefore been replaced by volatile non-silicone substitutes. In particular, volatile silicones in hair cosmetics have been replaced by volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane.

The use of volatile silicones in cosmetics, preferably in hair cosmetics, more preferably in leave-on hair cosmetics, can impart excellent smoothness and volume down effects to hair.

However, conventional volatile hydrocarbons, such as isododecane and isohexadecane, used in place of volatile silicones tend to impart less smoothing effect to hair and less volumizing effect compared to volatile silicones. There is Therefore, it can be used as a replacement for volatile silicones and imparts better smoothing and improved volumizing effects to the hair than conventional volatile hydrocarbons that have been used in place of volatile silicones. There is a need to find new volatile ingredients for hair cosmetics that can be used.

EP-A-847752 US Patent No. 6491927

Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C ASTM standard D-445

It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition that contains a volatile component that can be a new alternative to volatile silicones and that has good lubricating effect and smoothness compared to compositions containing conventional alternatives to volatile silicones, such as isododecane and isohexadecane. To provide a composition for keratin fibers such as hair, capable of imparting an improved volume-reducing effect to keratin fibers.

The purpose of the above is
(a) at least one volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil;
(b) optionally, at least one additional volatile oil other than (a) a branched _C13-15 alkane oil;
(c) at least one non-volatile oil;
(a) the amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil, relative to the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil, 30% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more,
It can be achieved by a composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair.

(a) The volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil may be 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane.

The amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in the composition is the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil of 99% by mass or less, preferably 95% by mass or less, and more preferably 90% by mass or less.

The amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in the composition is at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, more preferably at least 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. may be

The amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in the composition is no more than 90%, preferably no more than 80%, more preferably no more than 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. may be

(b) the optional additional volatile oil may preferably be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, more preferably selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof, at least It may contain one non-silicone oil.

The amount of (b) optional additional volatile oil in the composition is based on the total weight of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil. On the other hand, it may be 10% by mass or more, preferably 15% by mass or more, more preferably 20% by mass or more.

The amount of (b) optional additional volatile oil in the composition is, based on the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional volatile oil, 45 % by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 35% by mass or less.

(c) non-volatile oils may be selected from silicone oils, non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of (c) non-volatile oil in the composition is 1% to 50%, preferably 10% to 45%, more preferably 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. %.

The composition according to the invention may be substantially free of volatile silicone oils.

Volatile silicone oils may be selected from cyclic silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous fibers.

The present invention also relates to the use of (a) at least one volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in a composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair,
The composition optionally comprises (b) at least one additional volatile oil other than (a) a branched _C13-15 alkane oil and (c) at least one non-volatile oil. ,
The amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil is based on the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil , 30% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more,
It also relates to the use for imparting a smoothing and volumizing effect to keratin fibers. The smoothing and volume-down benefits imparted by the use according to the invention are superior to those imparted by the use of conventional volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane.

After extensive research, the inventors found that compositions containing volatile components that could be new alternatives to volatile silicones and better than compositions containing conventional alternatives to volatile silicones, such as isododecane and isohexadecane. It has now been found that it is possible to provide a composition for keratinous fibers, such as hair, which can impart a smoothing effect and an improved volumizing effect to the keratinous fibers.

Therefore, the present invention
(a) at least one volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil;
(b) optionally, at least one additional volatile oil other than (a) a branched _C13-15 alkane oil;
(c) at least one non-volatile oil;
(a) the amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil, relative to the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil, 30% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more,
It primarily relates to compositions for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

Volatile branched _C13-15 alkane oils can be used as new alternatives to volatile silicones.

The use of volatile branched _C13-15 alkane oils provides smoothing and volume reduction benefits that are better than those imparted by the use of traditional substitutes for volatile silicones, such as isododecane and isohexadecane. It can be applied to keratin fibers.

The compositions according to the invention are provided by compositions comprising conventional substitutes for volatile silicones for the volatile branched _C13-15 alkane oils in the compositions according to the invention, such as isododecane and isohexadecane. A smoothness effect and a volume-reducing effect can be imparted to the keratin fibers, which is better than the effect of

The composition according to the present invention is able to impart a smoothing and volumizing effect to the keratin fibers, thus imparting a smooth feel on the keratin fibers and a good ease of styling for the keratin fibers. be able to.

If the composition according to the invention comprises an additional volatile oil other than the branched _C13-15 alkane oil, the composition according to the invention provides the keratin fibers with a further improved or accelerated smoothness effect and A volume down effect can be given.

The compositions according to the invention can also impart a good finish to the keratin fibers and have a good texture and non-stickiness. Thus, the compositions according to the invention are capable of imparting a good appearance of keratin fibers, a good feel of keratin fibers and a non-greasy feel. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is suitable for hair cosmetics, especially leave-on hair cosmetics.

The composition according to the invention may be substantially free of volatile silicone oils.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

[Composition]
One aspect of the present invention is
(a) at least one volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil;
(b) optionally, at least one additional volatile oil other than (a) a branched _C13-15 alkane oil;
(c) at least one non-volatile oil;
(a) the amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil, relative to the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil, 30% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more,
It relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair.

Component (b) above is optional. Therefore, the composition according to the invention may or may not contain component (b) above. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile non-silicone oil as component (b) above.

(C _13-15 alkane oil)
The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil. A single type of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil may be used, or two or more different types of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil may be used in combination. .

As used herein, "oil" means a compound or substance in liquid or paste form at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C) that has a water solubility of less than 0.5% by weight at 25°C.

A branched C _13-15 alkane has a branched chemical structure containing 13-15 carbon atoms. It is preferred that the branched C _13-15 alkane has a branched chemical structure containing 15 carbon atoms.

The branched C _13-15 alkane oil may have a viscosity of 1-20 cps, preferably 1-10 cps, more preferably 1-5 cps at 20° C. under atmospheric pressure.

The branched C _13-15 alkane oil has a density of 0.5-0.8 g/cm ³ , preferably 0.6-0.8 g/cm ³ , more preferably 0.7-0.8 g/cm ³ at 20° C. under atmospheric pressure. may have.

The branched C _13-15 alkane oil may have a flash point of 90-200° C., preferably 100-160° C., more preferably 110-120° C. under atmospheric pressure.

As a branched C _13-15 alkane, mention may be made of 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane, marketed as hemisqualane by Amyris. Hemisqualane has the following chemical formula:

can be represented by

(a) The amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil comprises (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) additional volatile oil (if present) as described below. is 30% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the

(a) The amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil comprises (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) additional volatile oil (if present) as described below. may be 99% by mass or less, preferably 95% by mass or less, more preferably 90% by mass or less, relative to the total mass of the

(a) The amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil comprises (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) additional volatile oil (if present) as described below. 30% to 99% by mass, preferably 40% to 95% by mass, more preferably 50% to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of the

Based on the weight of the composition according to the invention, the amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil is at least 30%, preferably at least 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and more Preferably, it may be 40% by mass or more.

In a preferred embodiment, (a) the amount of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil is no more than 90% by weight, preferably no more than 80% by weight, more preferably no more than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. It may be 70% by mass or less.

In a more preferred embodiment, the amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in the composition according to the invention is 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be 50% by mass or less, more preferably 50% by mass or less.

In a preferred embodiment, the amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in the composition according to the invention is 30% to 90% by weight, preferably 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. % to 80% by mass, more preferably 40% to 70% by mass.

In a more preferred embodiment, the amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in the composition is from 30% to 60%, preferably 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be up to 55% by mass, more preferably 40% to 50% by mass.

(additional volatile oil)
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) optionally at least one additional volatile oil other than the volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil. A single type of additional volatile oil may be used, or two or more different types of additional volatile oil may be used in combination.

The presence of additional volatile oils other than the volatile branched _C13-15 alkane oil in the composition according to the invention is optional. Accordingly, the compositions according to the invention may or may not contain additional volatile oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that can evaporate in less than 1 hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) on contact with keratinous materials. Volatile oils are liquid at room temperature, in particular have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, specifically in the range from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10 ⁻³ to 300 mmHg), preferably from 1.3 Pa to It is a cosmetic volatile oil with a vapor pressure in the range 13000 Pa (0.01-100 mmHg), preferentially in the range 1.3 Pa-1300 Pa (0.01-10 mmHg).

The oil may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

It may be preferred that the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one volatile non-silicone oil, which is more preferably selected from volatile fluoro oils and volatile hydrocarbon oils.

Volatile Fluoro Oil The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Fluorooils that may be used in the present invention may be selected from fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in the document EP-A-847752, and perfluoro compounds.

According to the invention, the term "perfluoro compound" means a compound in which all hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atoms.

According to one preferred embodiment, the fluoro-oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro-oils. Examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the present invention include perfluorodecalin and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene.

According to one preferred embodiment, the fluoro oil is selected from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, in particular the Fiflow® products sold by Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluoro oil whose INCI name is perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene and sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.

Volatile Hydrocarbon Oils The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" (or "hydrocarbonated oil" or "hydrocarbon oil") is composed essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. , or even composed of oils containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol groups, ester groups, ether groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups and/or amide groups.

According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point above 65°C, even better above 80°C.

Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are selected from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially branched _C8 - _C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (2,2, 4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are also linear volatile alkanes containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, particularly 9 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. good too. Particular mention may be made of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane and mixtures thereof.

Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may preferably be selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof.

(b) the amount of optional additional volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-silicone oil, comprising (a) a volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) an optional additional volatile oil may be 10% by mass or more, preferably 15% by mass or more, more preferably 20% by mass or more, relative to the total mass of the

(b) The amount of optional additional volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-silicone oil, is based on the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional volatile oil On the other hand, it may be 45% by mass or less, preferably 40% by mass or less, more preferably 35% by mass or less.

(b) the amount of optional additional volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-silicone oil, comprising (a) a volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) an optional additional volatile oil 10% to 45% by weight, preferably 15% to 40% by weight, more preferably 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the

Based on the weight of the composition according to the invention, the amount of (b) an optional additional volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-silicone oil, in the composition is 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Above, preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more.

On the other hand, the amount of (b) an optional additional volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-silicone oil, in the composition according to the invention is not more than 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably may be 35% by mass or less, more preferably 30% by mass or less.

Therefore, the amount of (b) an optional additional volatile oil, preferably a volatile non-silicone oil, in the composition according to the invention is from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, It may be preferably 5% to 35% by mass, more preferably 10% to 30% by mass.

Volatile Silicone Oils The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil. A single type of volatile silicone oil may be used, or a combination of two or more different types of volatile silicone oil may be included.

Volatile silicone oils can be chosen from those having a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms; These include, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold inter alia by the company Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 or by the company Rhodia under the name Silbione® 70045 V2, by the company Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide Company, formula:

, cyclocopolymers of the type dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, etc. may also be mentioned.
Mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes and organosilicon compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2, Mixtures with 2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane may also be mentioned.
(ii) a linear volatile polydialkylsiloxane containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity at 25° C. of 5×10 ⁻⁶ m ² /s or less; An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name SH 200, inter alia, by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this class are also described in an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. Viscosity of silicones is measured according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C at 25°C.

Volatile silicone oils may be selected from cyclic silicones, preferably from the group consisting of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that the compositions according to the invention are substantially free of volatile silicone oils.

The term "substantially free of volatile silicone oils" as used herein means that the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one volatile silicone oil. , preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, or that the composition according to the invention does not contain any volatile silicone oils.

(Non-volatile oil)
The composition according to the invention comprises (c) at least one non-volatile oil. A single type of fixed oil may be used, or a combination of two or more different types of fixed oil may be used.

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on keratinous materials such as skin and hair at room temperature and pressure. More precisely, non-volatile oils have an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm ² /min.

(c) non-volatile oils may be selected from silicone oils, non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

Non-Volatile Non-Silicone Oils Non-volatile non-silicone oils can include:
- Hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, e.g. phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and phytostearyl esters such as lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate; especially fatty acids having chain lengths ranging from _C18 to _C36 . triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol which can be optionally linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic Triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil. oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pith seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, Lily Oil, Macadamia Oil, Corn Oil, Meadowfoam Oil, St. John's Wort Oil, Monoi Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Walnut Oil, Olive Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Palm Oil, Black Currant Seed Oil, Kiwi Seed Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Pistachios oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or those sold by Stearineries Dubois or under the name Miglyol 810 by Dynamit Nobel. hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold under ®, 812® and 818®;
- synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
- Synthetic esters, eg of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents at least one linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ is 1 representing particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chains containing ∼40 carbon atoms, provided that R ₁ +R ₂ ≧10). Esters can be chosen in particular from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for example cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isostearin. isopropyl acid, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, which may be selected from hydroxylated esters, examples being isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, which may be selected from heptanoic esters; In particular isostearyl heptanoate, which may be chosen from octanoic, decanoic or ricinoleic alcohols or polyalcohols, examples being propylene glycol dioctoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, especially _C12 - _C15 alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, selected from hexyl laurate, neopentanoate Examples are isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, and can be selected from isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate. and can be selected from hydroxylated esters, examples being isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl maleate,
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, e.g. dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers,
- copolymers of diol dimers and diacid dimers and their esters, e.g. dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinol dimer copolymers and their esters,
- copolymers of polyols and dimers of diacids, and esters thereof,
- aliphatic alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and have branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chains containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,
- _C12 - _C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid and mixtures thereof,
- a dialkyl carbonate in which the two alkyl chains are possibly identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;
- between about 400 g/mol and about 10000 g/mol, particularly about 650 g/mol to about 10000 g/mol, particularly about 750 g/mol to about 7500 g/mol, more particularly about 1000 g/mol to about 5000 g/mol oils with molar masses in the range; mention may be made in particular of (i) lipophilic polymers such as polybutylene, polyisobutylene, such as hydrogenated polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as copolymers of _C2 - _C30 alkenes, such as _C3 - _C22 , and combinations thereof; (iii) hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; (iv) aromatic esters, such as trimellitic acid. (v) esters of fatty alcohols or of branched _C24 - _C28 fatty acids such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,491,927 and pentaerythritol esters, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate, penta tetraisononanoate. Erythrityl, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl 2-tridecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, poly(2-glyceryl)tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyltetradecanoate; (vi) diol dimer Esters and polyesters, such as esters of diol dimers and fatty acids, and esters of diol dimers and diacids.

In one embodiment, the non-volatile non-silicone oil is a polar oil, preferably an ester oil, more preferably of the formula RCOOR', where R represents a C _1-29 fatty acid residue and R' is a C _2-30 carbonized representing a hydrogen group).

Non-Volatile Silicone Oil The non-volatile silicone oil that can be used in the present invention has a viscosity at 25° C. of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 ⁻⁶ m ² /s) or more and less than 800000 cSt, preferably from 10 to 600000 cSt. between 100 and 500000 cSt, preferably between 100 and 500000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone can be measured according to ASTM Standard D-445.

Among these silicone oils, a distinction can be made between two types of oils, depending on whether they contain phenyl or not. As such, the non-volatile silicone oil may be selected from non-phenylated silicone oils and phenylated silicone oils.

Representative examples of these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone); alkyl dimethicone; vinyl methyl methicone; Mention may also be made of silicones modified with functional groups such as thiol groups and/or amine groups.

Therefore, non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include:
- PDMS containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, each containing 2 to 24 carbon atoms, pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain,
- PDMS containing aliphatic groups or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with fluorinated groups, e.g. polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxane,
- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, e.g. dihydroxydimethylsiloxane (dimethiconol),
- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and
- these mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is selected from linear non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils.

Linear, non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are especially represented by the formula:

(In the formula,
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ , together or separately, are alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R ₃ and R ₄ , together or separately, are an alkyl group, vinyl group, amine group or hydroxyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
X is an alkyl, hydroxyl or amine group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
n and p are integers chosen to have a fluid compound)
of silicones to choose from.

As non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned:
- where the R ₁ to R ₆ substituents and X represent a methyl group and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 500000 cSt, for example the product sold under the name SE30 by General Electric, Wacker. by Bluestar under the name Mirasil DM 500 000 and by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt,
- wherein the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 300000 cSt, for example the product sold by the company Wacker under the name Wacker Belsil DM 300000,
- wherein the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 60000 cSt, for example sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS and products sold by Wacker under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60 000,
- wherein the substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent methyl groups and p and n are numbers such that the viscosity is 350 cSt, for example sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS products, and
- wherein the R ₁ to R ₆ substituents represent methyl groups, the X groups represent hydroxyl groups, and n and p are numbers such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, e.g. under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive. the product being sold.

According to another embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is selected from non-volatile phenylated silicone oils.

Representative examples of these non-volatile phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned are:
- phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula:

[In formula (I), the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably, in this formula the phenylsilicone oil contains at least 3, such as at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6 phenyl groups]
- phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula:

[In formula (II), the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl. Preferably, in this formula said organopolysiloxane comprises at least 3, such as at least 4 or at least 5 phenyl groups]
Mixtures of the organopolysiloxanes previously described can be used. Examples that may be mentioned are mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.
- phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula:

[In formula (III), Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl]
Such phenylsilicones are known inter alia by the Dow Corning Company under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane). ; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane). The reference name Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.
- phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula:

[In formula (IV), Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000, and X represents -CH2 _- CH( _CH3 )(Ph)]
- phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V):

[In formula (V), Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR' represents _-OSiMe3 groups, y is 0 or 1, so that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil. to 1000 and z ranges from 1 to 1000]
According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. For example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone sold under the reference Belsil PDM 1000, among others, by the company Wacker can be used. According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane can be used, for example, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
- Phenylsilicone oils corresponding to formula (VI), and mixtures thereof:

[In formula (VI),
- R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals;
- m, n, p and q are independently of each other integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m+n+q is other than 0, preferably the sum m+n+q is between 1 and Between 100. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900, even better between 1 and 800. preferably q equals 0]
- Phenylsilicone oils corresponding to formula (VII), and mixtures thereof:

[In formula (VII),
- R ₁ to R ₆ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals;
- m, n and p are each independently an integer between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, preferably R ₁ to R ₆ are each independently represents saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ , especially C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, wherein R ₁ -R ₆ are In particular, it may be identical, in addition it may be a methyl group, preferably in formula (VII) where m = 1 or 2 or 3 and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 applies. sell]
- phenylsilicone oils corresponding to formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof:

[In formula (VIII),
- R is a _C1 - _C30 alkyl group, an aryl group or an aralkyl group;
- n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100;
- m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, where the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100]
In particular, the R group of formula (VIII) and R ₁ -R ₁₀ defined above are each a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, especially a C ₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl group, particularly may then represent a C ₃ -C ₁₆ alkyl group, more particularly a C ₄ -C ₁₀ alkyl group, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , especially C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl group. or may represent an aralkyl group whose aryl and alkyl residues are as previously defined. Preferably, R and R ₁ to R ₁₀ of formula (VIII) may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl group, or represent a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl group. may]
According to one embodiment the viscosity at 25° C. is between 5 and 1500 mm ² /s (ie 5-1500 cSt), preferably the viscosity is between 5 and 1000 mm ² /s (ie 5-1000 cSt) Phenylsilicone oils of formula (VIII) can be used. As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII), phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, Silbione 70663V30 oil (28 cSt) from Rhone-Poulenc, or Belsi oils from Wacker, in particular Belsil PDM1000. (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt). Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25°C.
- Phenylsilicone oils corresponding to the formula, and mixtures thereof:

[In formula (IX),
R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ , together or separately, are alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R ₃ and R ₄ , together or separately, are an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl group;
X is an alkyl, hydroxyl or vinyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
n and p are chosen to give the oil a weight average molecular weight of less than 200000 g/mol, preferably less than 150000 g/mol, more preferably less than 100000 g/mol]

Phenylsilicones most particularly suitable for use in the present invention may correspond to formula (II) hereinabove, especially formulas (III), (V) and (VIII).

More specifically, the phenylsilicone may be selected from phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyl-trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and mixtures thereof. good.

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenylsilicone oils used according to the invention may range from 500 to 10000 g/mol.

The amount of (c) non-volatile oil in the composition according to the invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

The amount of (c) non-volatile oil in the composition according to the invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

The amount of (c) non-volatile oil in the composition according to the invention is between 1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 10% and 45% by weight, more preferably 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be up to 40% by mass.

(water)
The composition according to the invention may contain water.

However, it is preferred that the compositions according to the invention are anhydrous.

The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that the composition according to the invention contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. or that the composition according to the invention does not contain any water.

(other ingredients)
Compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one optional or additional component.

Optional or additional ingredients include: anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; organic or inorganic UV screening agents; peptides and their derivatives; protein hydrolysates; Antidandruff agents; Natural or synthetic water or oil thickeners; Suspending agents; Sequestrants; Dyes; Sunscreen agents; Vitamins or provitamins; co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of optional or additional ingredients is not limited, but is between 0.01% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, more preferably 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. It may be up to 10% by mass.

[Preparation]
Compositions according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredients described above and the optional ingredients (if required) described above.

The method and means of mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[form]
The composition according to the invention may be of the leave-on type or the rinse-off type, preferably the leave-on type.

[Method]
The composition according to the invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition. Cosmetic compositions can be used to treat keratin fibers. Keratin fibers may be hair, eyebrows, eyelashes, and the like.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may be intended for application onto keratin fibers such as hair. The composition according to the invention can therefore be used for cosmetic methods for keratin fibres.

The present invention also relates to a method for keratinous fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous fibres.

The keratin fibers to which the composition according to the invention has been applied can be left for the appropriate amount of time required to treat the keratin fibers. The length of time for each treatment is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 5 minutes, more preferably from 1 minute to 3 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for treatment according to the invention may be 3-30 minutes, preferably 3-15 minutes, more preferably 3-10 minutes.

Keratin fibers may be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying the composition according to the invention onto the keratin fibers, the The keratin fibers can be heated at 35°C, even more preferably between 27°C and 35°C.

Keratin fibers to which the composition according to the invention has been applied may or may not be rinsed.

The method according to the present invention, preferably a cosmetic method, imparts smoothness (e.g. smooth combing even when the keratin fibers are wet and smooth touch when the keratin fibers are dry) to keratin fibers such as hair. , the keratin fibers are easy to pass through with fingers even when the keratin fibers are wet, the feeling of moistness is felt even when the keratin fibers are dry, and the hair is less sticky when the keratin fibers are dry ( or non-greasy), and improved conditioning cosmetic benefits such as volume down control (thus it is easy to style the shape of the keratin fibers due to the anti-shrinkage properties of the composition according to the invention) and A manageable cosmetic effect can be imparted. The term "volume down" means that the spreading of the keratin fibers is reduced or controlled so that the style of the keratin fibers can be better controlled.

Specifically, the method according to the present invention can impart a higher level of smoothness, moisture, volume control, etc., to keratinous fibers such as hair, as well as less tackiness, which is not overly greasy.

[use]
The present invention also relates to the use of volatile branched _C13-15 alkane oils as new alternatives to volatile silicones.

The use of volatile branched _C13-15 alkane oils provides smoothing and volume reduction benefits that are better than those imparted by the use of traditional substitutes for volatile silicones, such as isododecane and isohexadecane. It can be applied to keratin fibers.

Specifically, the present invention also relates to the use of (a) at least one volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil in a composition for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair,
The composition optionally comprises (b) at least one additional volatile oil other than (a) a branched _C13-15 alkane oil and (c) at least one non-volatile oil. ,
The amount of (a) volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil is based on the total weight of (a) branched C _13-15 alkane oil and (b) optional additional volatile oil , 30% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more,
It also relates to the use for imparting a smoothing and volumizing effect to keratin fibers. The smoothing and volume-down benefits imparted by the use according to the invention are superior to those imparted by the use of conventional volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane.

The invention will be explained in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

(Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1-4)
[Preparation]
Each of the hair compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. All numerical values for the amounts of ingredients are based on "% by weight" of the active ingredient. Example 1 is listed in both Table 1 and Table 2.

[evaluation]
(smoothness)
Three hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Hair swatches were washed with a cleansing shampoo and then placed on a hot plate at 30°C. 0.4 g each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were applied onto the hair swatches using a brush. The hair swatches were then kept at 24° C. and 40% relative humidity for 30 minutes and then dried using a blow dryer under ambient conditions to obtain treated hair swatches.

A treated hair swatch was placed on the plate and the root side was fixed on the plate with a hair clip. The smoothness of the treated hair swatches was measured by scanning from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) manufactured by Trinity Lab).

This measurement was performed three times per treated hair swatch. The same procedure was performed on two more hair swatches to obtain a total of 9 results per composition, and the average COF (coefficient of friction) was calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates a better smoothing effect.

Table 1 shows the results.

Table 1 shows that the composition according to Example 1 can impart the lowest COF to the hair, which is the best smoothness among the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3. mean, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3 impart less smoothness to the hair.

(effective volume)
Three hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Hair swatches were washed with a cleansing shampoo and then placed on a hot plate at 30°C. 0.4 g each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were applied onto the hair swatches using a brush. The hair swatches were then kept at 24° C. and 40% relative humidity for 30 minutes and then dried using a blow dryer under ambient conditions to obtain treated hair swatches.

The volume of the treated hair sample was measured by taking an image with a camera (Powershot SX620 HS manufactured by Canon Inc.). Each dried swatch was hung in front of a white background (backlit) sheet and an image of the swatch was obtained with a camera. With the help of customized image analysis software, the obtained images were converted to grayscale images and the pixels of the grayscale images were counted to measure the total volumetric area of the hair swatches (with a fixed calibration). In order to take into account the effect of the three-dimensional volume of the hair swatches, 8 photographs (images) were taken with the hair swatches periodically rotated by 45° each and their volumetric area values were averaged. The number of volume regions was then calculated as the effective volume.

This measurement was performed three times per treated hair swatch. The same procedure was performed on two more hair swatches to obtain a total of 9 results per composition and the average value was calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates that a better volume-reducing effect was exhibited.

These results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

Table 1 shows that the composition according to Example 1 can provide less volume to the hair compared to the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3. Therefore, the composition according to Example 1 can reduce hair volume more effectively, which means a better volume-reducing or volume-regulating effect than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3. do. The results shown in Table 1 show that the use of volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil has a better volume than the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-3, which do not contain any volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil. It clearly shows that a down effect or a volume control effect can be given.

Table 2 also shows that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can impart less volume to the hair than the composition according to Comparative Example 4. Therefore, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 are able to reduce hair volume more effectively, which means a better volume-reducing or volume-regulating effect than the composition according to Comparative Example 4. do. The results shown in Table 2 show that the use of 30% or more volatile branched C _13-15 alkane oil relative to the total weight of volatile oils in the composition results in less than 30% volatile branched C It clearly shows that a better volume-reducing effect or volume-regulating effect can be imparted than the composition according to Comparative Example 4 containing _13-15 alkane oil.

Claims (14)

(a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane;
(b ) ( a) at least one additional volatile oil other than 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane;
(c) at least one non-volatile oil;
The amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane is 50 % by mass based on the total mass of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane and (b ) additional volatile oil and
The amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane in the composition is 30% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition,
A composition for treating keratin fibers, wherein the amount of volatile silicone oil in the composition is less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that it does not contain 5,6-dihydroxyindole or salts thereof ). The amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane in the composition is based on the total weight of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane and (b ) additional volatile oil 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the content is 99% by mass or less. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane in the composition is 35 % by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane in the composition is 90% by mass or less relative to the total mass of the composition. composition. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said (b ) additional volatile oil comprises at least one non-silicone oil. The amount of said (b ) additional volatile oil in said composition is, relative to the total weight of said (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane and said (b ) additional volatile oil, 6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is 10% by mass or more. The amount of said (b ) additional volatile oil in said composition is, relative to the total weight of said (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane and said (b ) additional volatile oil, 7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is 45% by mass or less. 8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein said (c) non-volatile oil is selected from silicone oils, non-silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of (c) non-volatile oil in the composition is from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. thing. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of volatile silicone oil is less than 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein said volatile silicone oil is selected from cyclic silicones. 12. The composition of any one of claims 1-11, which is anhydrous. A cosmetic method for keratinous fibres, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to keratinous fibres. Use of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane in a composition for treating keratin fibers,
said composition comprising (b ) ( a) at least one additional volatile oil other than 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane and (c) at least one non-volatile oil;
The amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane is 50 % by mass based on the total mass of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane and (b ) additional volatile oil. and
the amount of (a) 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane in the composition is 30% by mass or more relative to the total mass of the composition;
Use for imparting a smoothing effect and a volumizing effect to said keratin fibers, wherein the amount of volatile silicone oil in said composition is less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.