JP7340152B2 - Potentially bulky acrylic fabric and method for producing bulky acrylic fabric - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an acrylic fabric having latent bulkiness using a blended yarn containing shrinkable acrylic staple fibers, and a method for producing a bulky acrylic fabric using the fabric.

Blended yarns containing shrinkable acrylic fibers and non-shrinkable fibers can provide bulkiness to knitted fabrics by causing the non-shrinkable fibers to stand out on the surface layer of the blended yarn by shrinking the shrinkable acrylic fibers, giving the knitted fabric a sense of fullness. It is often used for this purpose. However, in textiles, it is difficult to obtain a sense of fullness due to strong constraints in the weaving structure, and acrylic blend yarns have mostly been used for knitting, so practical textiles that take advantage of the characteristics of acrylic fibers Efforts to develop it have been limited.

Under such circumstances, Patent Document 1 is known as an example of a fabric that utilizes the shrinkability of acrylic fibers. This document describes that in order to obtain a woven fabric with bulkiness, a woven or knitted fabric is knitted using a blend of alkali-treated cotton fibers and high-shrinkage acrylic fibers, and the fabric is shrunk by hot water treatment to form a bulky woven fabric. Disclosed.

Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 11-100737

The invention of Patent Document 1 focuses on the materials that make up the fabric, but there are cases where it is not possible to obtain a fabric with the desired bulkiness just by selecting the material, or even if the fabric is bulky, the texture of the fabric becomes clogged. may become hard. An object of the present invention is to provide a potentially bulky acrylic fabric that can exhibit sufficient bulk, a warm touch, and a soft texture.

As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the inventors of the present invention found that by not only selecting the material, but also controlling the thickness and twist coefficient of the yarn used, as well as the weaving structure within a specific range. The inventors have discovered that the shrinkability of shrinkable acrylic fibers can be sufficiently developed to obtain bulky acrylic fabrics suitable for clothing, etc., and have arrived at the present invention.

That is, the present invention is achieved by the following means.
(1) A latent bulky acrylic blend yarn containing 20 to 60% by weight of shrinkable acrylic short fibers with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15 to 45% and 40 to 80% by weight of non-shrinkable short fibers is used as the warp and/or weft. In the fabric used, the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn has an English cotton count of 6 to 80, and a twist coefficient calculated from the English cotton count of 2.7 to 4.0, and A latent bulky acrylic fabric characterized by having a weave structure in which 3 to 7 latent bulky acrylic blend yarns are consecutively raised and have a cover factor of 30 to 60.
(2) The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to (1), wherein the shrinkable acrylic short fibers have a fineness of 0.4 to 5.0 dtex.
(3) The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to (1) or (2), wherein the non-shrinkable short fibers include non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers.
(4) The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the non-shrinkable short fibers include fibers with a fineness of 1.0 dtex or less.
(5) The latent bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn is a long and short composite yarn having polyurethane long fibers as a core.
(6) The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the warp is a long fiber.
(7) The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the warp is a short fiber spun yarn.
(8) The latent bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of (1) to (5), which is a pants fabric using a latent bulky acrylic blend yarn as the weft.
(9) A method for producing a bulky acrylic fabric, comprising subjecting the potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of (1) to (8) to a shrinkage treatment.
(10) The method for producing a bulky acrylic fabric according to (9), wherein the shrinkage treatment is a boiling water treatment.

By undergoing a shrinkage treatment, the latent bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention can sufficiently exhibit the shrinkability of the shrinkable acrylic fibers, and can be made into a bulky acrylic fabric suitable for clothing applications. This bulky acrylic fabric is a practical fabric that takes advantage of the features of acrylic fibers, and has sufficient bulk and a soft texture and warm touch that are unique to acrylic fibers. In addition, such bulky acrylic fabrics can provide a raised feel without being subjected to a raising treatment, and when subjected to the raising treatment, they have a texture that is even more excellent than that of ordinary products. The bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention having such performance can be used for, for example, shirts, blouses, coats, sportswear, skirts, trousers, underpants, linings, sheets, cushions, curtains, interior decorations, and the like.

The present invention will be explained in detail below. The latent bulky acrylic blend yarn employed in the present invention contains shrinkable acrylic short fibers. Such shrinkable acrylic short fibers have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15 to 45%, preferably 25 to 45%, more preferably 30 to 40%, as measured by the method described below. If the boiling water shrinkage rate is less than the lower limit above, sufficient bulkiness cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds the upper limit, the shrinkage rate will not reach the original shrinkage rate due to the binding force of the woven structure, resulting in residual distortion. or contraction may become unstable in some areas. Note that a plurality of types of such shrinkable acrylic short fibers may be used.

The fineness of the shrinkable acrylic short fibers is preferably 0.4 to 5.0 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 dtex, and still more preferably 0.9 to 2.4 dtex. If the fineness is less than the lower limit above, it will be difficult to spin, and if it exceeds the upper limit, the number of fibers that make up the yarn will decrease and the strength of the yarn will decrease, so there is a risk that it will be blown out by air during weaving and weaving will not be possible. There is.

The fiber length of the shrinkable acrylic short fibers is preferably 32 to 150 mm, more preferably 38 to 51 mm. If the fiber length is less than the lower limit above, the spinning quality will be poor, and if it exceeds the upper limit, it will not be possible to spin with normal spinning equipment, and modifications to the spinning equipment such as changing the gauge between rollers or changing parts will be required. It may be necessary.

Further, the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn employed in the present invention contains non-shrinkable short fibers. The boiling water shrinkage rate of such non-shrinkable short fibers is smaller than that of the shrinkable acrylic short fibers, preferably 10% or less, more preferably 3% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage rate exceeds the above upper limit, the difference in shrinkage rate from the shrinkable acrylic short fibers becomes small, and there is a possibility that a bulky feeling may not be obtained. In addition, such non-shrinkable short fibers may not shrink at all, or multiple types may be used.

The above-mentioned non-shrinkable short fibers include natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and animal hair (mohair, cashmere, camel, alpaca, angora, etc.), recycled fibers such as rayon and cupro, and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate and Promix. Fibers, synthetic fibers such as acrylic, nylon, and polyester can be used. Among them, by using acrylic fiber as the material, it becomes easier to obtain a fabric that has excellent heat retention and a warm sensation to the touch. Further, the fineness of the non-shrinkable short fibers is preferably 5.0 dtex or less, more preferably 1.0 dtex or less. In particular, by having a fineness of 1.0 dtex or less, it becomes easier to obtain the advantage of a soft, brushed texture. The lower limit of the fineness is desirably 0.3 dtex or more from the viewpoint of spinning processability.

The fiber length of the non-shrinkable short fibers is preferably 32 to 150 mm, more preferably 38 to 51 mm. By setting the fiber length within this range, the fiber ends are moderately exposed on the yarn surface after shrinkage treatment, making it easier to obtain a raised feel. If the fiber length is less than the lower limit above, the spinning quality will be poor, and if it exceeds the upper limit, it will not be possible to spin with normal spinning equipment, and modifications to the spinning equipment such as changing the gauge between rollers or changing parts will be required. There is a possibility that it will be necessary.

The latent bulky acrylic blend yarn employed in the present invention contains 20 to 60% by weight, preferably 30 to 40% by weight of the above-mentioned shrinkable acrylic short fibers. If the content of shrinkable acrylic short fibers is less than the above lower limit, the shrinkage force will be insufficient and sufficient and uniform bulkiness cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds the above upper limit, the shrinkable acrylic short fibers will be disposed on the surface layer of the yarn after shrinking. The amount of fibers decreases, making it impossible to feel fullness.

Further, the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn employed in the present invention contains 40 to 80% by weight, preferably 60 to 70% by weight of the above-mentioned non-shrinkable short fibers. If the content of non-shrinkable short fibers is less than the above lower limit, the amount of fibers placed on the surface layer of the yarn after shrinkage will be small and it will not be possible to obtain a full feeling. However, the amount of shrinkable acrylic short fibers is insufficient, making it impossible to obtain sufficient and uniform bulkiness.

Furthermore, the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn employed in the present invention may contain fibers other than the above-mentioned shrinkable acrylic short fibers and non-shrinkable short fibers (hereinafter referred to as other fibers). Examples of such other fibers include long fibers, such as polyurethane long fibers and nylon long fibers.

The English cotton count of the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn is 6 to 80, preferably 10 to 70. If the English cotton count is less than the above lower limit, the yarn is too thick and the characteristic of swelling becomes difficult to feel, and if it exceeds the upper limit, the yarn is too thin and the bulkiness is insufficient.

The twist coefficient of the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn is 2.7 to 4.0, preferably 3.0 to 3.5. If the twist coefficient is less than the above lower limit, the yarn strength will be low and yarn breakage or thread breakage will occur easily, and if it exceeds the upper limit, the twisting will be restricted too strongly and shrinkage of the shrinkable acrylic fiber will be inhibited, resulting in poor bulk. It becomes insufficient.

In addition, the structure of the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn includes general short fiber spun yarn, as well as long and short composite yarns such as core spun yarn, covered yarn, and wrapping yarn. A typical example of the long and short composite yarn is a yarn whose core is the above-mentioned polyurethane long fibers and whose outer layer is made up of shrinkable acrylic short fibers and non-shrinkable short fibers.

The latent bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention is a fabric using the above-mentioned latent bulky acrylic blended yarns in the warp and/or weft, and the blended yarns are continuous from 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 7. It has a texture with one or four strands standing out. When the number of protruding protrusions is less than three, shrinkage is difficult to occur, and when it exceeds seven, problems of snagging and slipping are likely to occur. Here, "weaving structure in which 3 to 7 consecutive threads are protruding" basically refers to a woven structure in which 3 to 7 warp threads (or weft threads) are consecutively protruding above the weft threads (or warp threads). It means a weave with a 3/1 diagonal weave, a twill weave, a 4/1 satin weave, and a double weave. Specific examples include drill, chino, satin, and denim.

Further, the cover factor of the potentially bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention is preferably 30 to 60. Furthermore, when the number of potentially bulky acrylic blend yarns that stand out in the weave is 3, it is more preferable that the cover factor is 32 to 38, and when the number of embossed acrylic yarns is 4, the cover factor More preferably, the factor is between 38 and 45. If the lower limit is less than the above, problems such as snagging and slipping may easily occur, and if the upper limit is exceeded, the woven structure becomes too dense and cannot exhibit sufficient shrinkage, resulting in insufficient bulk. , residual distortion may occur.

In the potentially bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention, it is desirable to use the above-mentioned potentially bulky acrylic blend yarn for the weft and use long fiber or short fiber spun yarn for the warp. When latent bulky acrylic blend yarns are used as warp yarns, shrinkage may occur due to heating during sizing, and in that case, the shrinkage is extended during the weaving process, making it difficult to cause shrinkage after weaving. There are disadvantages.

The long fibers used for the warp are not particularly limited, and cupro long fibers, nylon long fibers, rayon long fibers, and the like can be used. Further, the short fiber spun yarn used for the warp is not particularly limited, and cotton yarn, various spun yarns, etc. can be used.

Typical configurations of the latent bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention include a 3/1 pants fabric using short fiber spun cotton yarn for the warp and latent bulky acrylic blend yarn for the weft; Examples include 4/1 satin fabric using rayon long fibers and latent bulky acrylic blend yarn for the weft.

When the latent bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention described above is subjected to a shrinkage treatment, the shrinkable acrylic short fibers contained in the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn constituting the fabric shrink, and bulkiness is developed. It can be an acrylic fabric. Examples of methods for such shrinkage treatment include a method in which the latent bulky acrylic fabric of the present invention is immersed in boiling water for 20 minutes or more, and a method in which it is subjected to dry heat treatment at 160° C. for 1 minute or more in an expanded state. Note that the shrinkage treatment may be performed as part of the dyeing process.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. Note that the measurement method used for evaluation in the examples is as follows. In addition, parts and percentages in the examples are expressed on a weight basis unless otherwise specified.

<Boiling water shrinkage rate>
A load (0.1 g/dtex) is applied to the sample before boiling water treatment, the original length (L1 [mm]) at regular intervals is measured, the sample is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes, and after drying, a load is applied to the sample. (0.1 g/dtex), measure the length of change (L2 [mm]), and calculate the shrinkage rate using the following formula.
Boiling water shrinkage rate (%) = {(L1-L2)/L1}×100

<Twist coefficient>
The twist coefficient is calculated from the following formula from the number of twists per inch T determined according to method A of JIS L 1095:2010 9.15.1 and the cotton count Ne determined according to JIS L 1095:2010 9.4.1.
Twist coefficient = T/(Ne) ^1/2

<Fineness>
Fineness is measured according to JIS L 1015:2010 8.5.

<Cover factor>
T: warp count (English cotton count), W: weft count (English cotton count), TD: warp density (threads/inch), WD: weft density (threads/inch), calculated by the following formula.
Cover factor = TD/(T) ^1/2 +WD/(W) ^1/2

<Specific volume ratio>
The bulkiness (hereinafter also referred to as specific volume) [cm ³ /g] is measured according to the method described in JIS L 1096:2010 8.5 Bulkyness. The ratio [%] of the specific volume of each Example and Comparative Example to the specific volume of the fabric of Comparative Example 1 is calculated, and this is defined as the specific volume ratio.

<Texture (softness), brushed feel>
The texture and nap feeling of each sample after shrinkage treatment were evaluated by five skilled technicians on the following five scales, and the evaluation with the highest rating was taken as the evaluation result.
Very good: ◎, Good: ○, Fairly good: △, Fairly poor: △△, Bad: ×

<Touch thermal sensation>
The maximum heat flow rate qmax is measured as an evaluation of contact thermal sensation. The measurement of qmax is performed using Thermolab II (KES-F7) manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. according to the measurement manual manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd. In an environment of 20℃ x 65% RH, the BT box (heat source plate) is set at 35±0.1℃ as human skin temperature, and the T box (temperature detection and heat storage plate) is placed above it at 35±0. .Set at 1℃. Place the measurement sample on a water box (temperature table) set at an outside temperature of 20±0.5℃, place the T-box at 35±0.1℃ on top of this measurement sample, and measure the maximum temperature that indicates heat transfer. Measure the heat flow rate qmax (W/cm ² ).

[Example 1]
Shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 38%, 1 dtex, 38 mm) and non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 3%, 0.5 dtex, 32 mm) :65 weight ratio in a drawing step, and ring spinning was performed to obtain a blended yarn having an English cotton count of 70 and a twist coefficient of 3.0. A 4/1 satin weave fabric was made using cupro long fibers of 75 dtex (English cotton count 70.9) for the warp and the above blended yarn for the weft, with a warp density of 185 threads/inch and a weft density of 70 threads/inch. Created. This woven fabric was treated with hot water at 100° C. for 5 minutes to induce shrinkage, and dried to obtain a bulky woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the fabrics before and after shrinkage treatment.

[Example 2]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the shrinkable acrylic short fibers are changed to shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd.) having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 20%, 0.9 dtex, and 38 mm.

[Example 3]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the weight ratio of shrinkable acrylic short fibers and non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers is changed to 50:50.

[Example 4]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the weight ratio of shrinkable acrylic short fibers and non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers is changed to 25:75.

[Example 5]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the blended yarn count is 20 and the weft density is 60 threads/inch.

[Example 6]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the twist coefficient of the blended yarn is 3.8.

[Example 7]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the weave structure is a double weave with seven floating threads.

[Example 8]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp density is 250 threads/inch and the weft density is 150 threads/inch.

[Example 9]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the shrinkable acrylic short fibers are changed to shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd.) with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 38%, 0.4 dtex, and 38 mm.

[Example 10]
Shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nihon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 38%, 1 dtex, 38 mm) and non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 3%, 0.5 dtex, 38 mm) were kneaded. By blending in the threading process and combining polyurethane long fibers (Lycra (registered trademark), 70 dtex, manufactured by Toray Operantex Co., Ltd.) by ring spinning, long and short composite yarns with an English cotton count of 16 and a twist coefficient of 3.5 ( Core spun yarn (CSY) is obtained. The weight ratio of shrinkable acrylic short fibers: non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers: polyurethane long fibers is 34:63:3. Next, a 3/1 twill weave was made using spun cotton yarn (English cotton count 12) for the warp and the above-mentioned long and short composite yarn for the weft, with a warp density of 80 threads/inch and a weft density of 60 threads/inch. create. This woven fabric is treated with hot water at 100° C. for 5 minutes to induce shrinkage, and then dried to obtain a bulky woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the fabrics before and after shrinkage treatment.

[Example 11]
Shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nihon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 38%, 1 dtex, 38 mm), non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 3%, 0.5 dtex, 38 mm). :65 weight ratio in the drawing step, and ring-spun to obtain a blended yarn having an English cotton count of 20 and a twist coefficient of 3.0. Using cotton spun yarn (English cotton count 20) for the warp and the above blended yarn for the weft, a 4/1 satin weave fabric is prepared with a warp density of 100 yarns/inch and a weft yarn density of 75 yarns/inch. This woven fabric is treated with hot water at 100° C. for 5 minutes to induce shrinkage, and then dried to obtain a bulky woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the fabrics before and after shrinkage treatment.

[Comparative example 1]
A woven fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the shrinkable acrylic short fibers are replaced with non-shrinkable acrylic fibers (manufactured by Nippon Exlan Kogyo Co., Ltd., boiling water shrinkage rate 3%, 1 dtex, 38 mm).

[Comparative example 2]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weave structure is changed to 1/1 plain weave.

[Comparative example 3]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weave structure is a 2/1 twill weave.

[Comparative example 4]
A bulky fabric is obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp density is 160 threads/inch and the weft density is 80 threads/inch.

Table 1 shows the results of evaluating the fabrics before and after shrinkage treatment in each Example and Comparative Example.

In Examples 1 to 11, bulky fabrics with good specific volume ratio, texture, nap feeling, and q-max could be obtained. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since no shrinkable acrylic fibers were used, bulkiness could not be obtained. Comparative Examples 2 and 3 have a plain weave or a 2/1 twill weave with a small number of floating threads, and thus have poor bulkiness. In Comparative Example 4, the texture, nap feeling, and q-max were all good, but the cover factor was too low, causing problems such as snagging and slipping during actual use.

Claims (10)

A woven fabric using a potentially bulky acrylic blend yarn containing 20 to 60% by weight of shrinkable acrylic staple fibers with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15 to 45% and 40 to 80% by weight of non-shrinkable staple fibers for the warp and/or weft. The latent bulky acrylic blend yarn has an English cotton count of 6 to 80, and has a twist coefficient calculated from the English cotton count of 2.7 to 4.0, and further has the latent bulk. A potentially bulky acrylic fabric characterized by having a weave structure in which 3 to 7 consecutive acrylic blended yarns stand out and have a cover factor of 30 to 60. The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to claim 1, wherein the shrinkable acrylic short fibers have a fineness of 0.4 to 5.0 dtex. The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the non-shrinkable short fibers include non-shrinkable acrylic short fibers. The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the non-shrinkable short fibers contain fibers with a fineness of 1.0 dtex or less. The latent bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the latent bulky acrylic blend yarn is a long and short composite yarn having polyurethane long fibers as a core. The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the warp is a long fiber. The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the warp is a short fiber spun yarn. 6. The potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is a pants fabric using a latent bulky acrylic blend yarn as the weft. A method for producing a bulky acrylic fabric, comprising subjecting the potentially bulky acrylic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to a shrinkage treatment. The method for producing a bulky acrylic fabric according to claim 9, wherein the shrinkage treatment is a boiling water treatment.