JP7367407B2 - Composite false twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabrics made from it - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a composite false-twisted yarn that eliminates the glare and shine that were problems of polyester false-twisted yarn and has an excellent heathered appearance, and to a woven or knitted fabric made from the same.

Conventionally, polyester false twisted yarn has bulkiness, stretchability, etc. due to its crimp characteristics, and has been used in a wide range of applications such as women's, men's, casual, sports, and uniforms. On the other hand, major issues with polyester false-twisted yarns include glare and shine. Glare is a glaring shine that occurs due to a lot of specular reflection on the fiber surface of polyester filament, and is a phenomenon that is often seen in polyester false-twisted yarns whose cross section is flattened by false twisting, and is disliked as a characteristic appearance of synthetic fibers. It is something.

Conventionally, in order to improve this glare, inorganic fine particles such as titanium oxide, silica, alumina, etc. have been used in polyester fibers. The aim is to use the high refractive index of inorganic fine particles to create a matting effect that scatters the incident light on the fibers, but using only such a matting agent will reduce the glare that is characteristic of polyester false-twisted yarn. It could not be erased (see Patent Document 1).

On the other hand, shine is not a phenomenon unique to polyester false-twisted yarn, but is also a phenomenon seen in natural fibers such as wool, but it occurs when the fiber surface is crushed due to repeated washing and abrasion during use of textile products. It refers to a shiny luster. Since the cross section of polyester false-twisted yarn is flattened during the false-twisting process, shine tends to be noticeable, which has been a long-standing problem.

In order to eliminate this glare and shine, a polyester two-layer structure yarn has been proposed in which a polyester filament with a high degree of irregularity having a concave portion is arranged in the sheath portion (see Patent Document 2). In this patent, it is possible to reflect light relatively gently by arranging threads with irregular cross-sections in the sheath threads, but it is impossible for the sheath threads to completely cover the core threads. The glare where the core was exposed was unavoidable. The glare is not all over the place, but if it occurs even slightly locally, it is easy to visually detect it, and it has been difficult to eliminate glare with double-layered yarns. In addition, the two-layer yarn is susceptible to washing and abrasion, and the core yarn is more likely to be exposed, resulting in shine.

JP 2015-14052 Publication Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 11-43838

An object of the present invention is to provide a composite false-twisted yarn and a woven or knitted fabric made from the same, which eliminates the glare and shine that are problems of polyester false-twisted yarn and has an excellent heathered appearance. .

In order to solve this problem, the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has the following configuration. That is,
A composite false twisted yarn consisting of at least non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and cationic dyeable polyester filament B, the inorganic fine particle content of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A is 1.5 to 20.0% by mass, The inorganic fine particle content of the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is 0.001 to 1.0% by mass, and the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A is greater than the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the cationic dyeable polyester filament B. This is a composite false-twisted yarn characterized in that it is smaller by 1.2 or more .

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following configuration. That is,
This is a woven or knitted fabric using the above-mentioned composite false twisted yarn.

In the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filaments A is 1.2 or more smaller than the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the cationic dyeable polyester filaments B.

In the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, at least one of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is preferably a filament yarn having a cross-sectional shape having 3 to 10 recesses.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a discoloration of grade 3 or higher when abraded after washing.

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn and a woven or knitted fabric thereof that eliminates glare and shine that could not be obtained conventionally and has an excellent heathered appearance.

1 is an example of a fiber cross-sectional view of a composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention.

It is important that the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is first composed of at least non-cationic dyeable polyester filaments A and cationic dyeable polyester filaments B. By combining polyester filaments with different dyeing properties, it is possible to not only obtain a heathered appearance, but also to reduce the perception of glare and shine by imparting shading tones to the woven or knitted fabric. Furthermore, non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A can be specified on the high reflection side of light dyeing, and it is important that the inorganic fine particle content of this polyester filament A is 1.5 to 20.0% by mass. By containing a large amount of inorganic fine particles on the high-reflection side of light dyeing, it is possible to scatter the light incident on the fibers and effectively reduce glare. Here, if the content of inorganic fine particles in filament A is less than 1.5 % by mass, glare cannot be reduced. Furthermore, if the content of inorganic fine particles in the filament A exceeds 20.0% by mass, the filament strength becomes very weak, and fuzzing and pilling easily occur due to washing or abrasion. Here, the preferred content of inorganic fine particles in filament A is 1.5 to 8.0% by mass.

Next, it is important for the content of inorganic fine particles in the cationic dyeable polyester filament B to be 0.001 to 1.0% by mass in order to eliminate shine. Shine is a shiny shine that occurs when the fiber surface is crushed due to repeated washing and abrasion, but if the content of inorganic fine particles is high, the fiber surface is easily abraded and shine is likely to occur. Since shine is particularly noticeable on the dark dyed side, by lowering the inorganic fine particle content of the cationic dyeable polyester filament B, it is possible to reduce the occurrence of shine. Here, if the content of inorganic fine particles in the filament B is less than 0.001% by mass, the frictional resistance with the guide becomes large, and thread breakage is likely to occur during the spinning process. Furthermore, when the content of inorganic fine particles in filament B exceeds 1.0% by mass, the fiber surface of the darkly dyed filament B is likely to be scraped, and shine is likely to occur. Here, the preferred content of inorganic fine particles in filament B is 0.01 to 1.0% by mass.

Any inorganic particles such as titanium dioxide, silica, kaolinite, alumina, etc. can be used as the inorganic fine particles here, but titanium dioxide is preferably used because it has a high refractive index and a high light scattering effect.

Further, in order to reduce glare, it is important that the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A is smaller than the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the cationic-dyable polyester filament B by 1.2 or more . In the case of false twisted yarn, since the filaments are twisted and heat set at the same time, some degree of cross-sectional deformation is unavoidable. Even if the filament has an irregular cross-section, if the cross-section is deformed, the incident light will be specularly reflected at the deformed cross-section where part of the filament becomes flat, resulting in increased glare. However, as mentioned above, glare is more noticeable on the high-reflectance side of light dyeing, so the large cross-sectional deformation is concentrated on dark dyed cationically dyeable polyester filament B, and light dyed non-cationically dyeable polyester filament A. By making the cross-sectional deformation of 1.2 or more smaller than that of cationic dyeable polyester filament B , it becomes possible to further reduce glare. Furthermore, even if the inner layer of the filament is exposed due to repeated washing or abrasion, if the cross-sectional deformation of filament A is 1.2 or more smaller than that of cationic dyeable polyester filament B, shine will be less noticeable.

Here, the degree of cross-sectional deformation is calculated by the following method. First, after cutting the processed yarn to a thickness of 5 μm in the fiber cross-sectional direction at random locations, a cross-sectional photograph was taken with an optical microscope, l ₁ and l ₂ of the fiber cross-section were measured, and the cross-section was calculated using the following formula. Calculate the degree of deformation. Then, the largest value for each of filaments A and B is defined as the degree of cross-sectional deformation. This operation was repeated 10 times, and the average value was taken as the cross-sectional deformation degree of each filament A and B.

Cross-sectional deformation = l ₁ / l ₂
Here, l ₁ represents the length (μm) of the longest portion of the fiber cross section, and l ₂ represents the length (μm) that is perpendicular to l ₁ and represents the longest portion of the fiber cross section.

Further, it is preferable that at least one of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is a filament yarn having a cross-sectional shape having 3 to 10 recesses. By having a concave portion in the filament, incident light can be diffusely reflected and glare can be suppressed. Furthermore, by having the recessed portions, the fiber surface is less likely to be scraped even after repeated washing and abrasion, and shine is less likely to occur. Here, when the recesses of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B are within the above-mentioned preferred range, the light diffuse reflection effect is sufficient and glare is less likely to occur, while the depth of the recesses is is not too shallow, making it difficult for glare to occur. Here, the more preferable number of recesses is 5 to 10. As shown in FIG. 1, the concave portion in the cross-sectional shape here refers to the concave portion between the contact points when a straight line T ₁ is drawn that touches the cross-sectional contour at a plurality of contact points S ₁ and S ₂ in the fiber cross-sectional view. (U) means.

The fineness of each of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is preferably 30 to 200 dtex from the viewpoint of imparting minimum firmness to the woven or knitted fabric. When the fineness of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is within the above-mentioned preferred ranges, the garment will have sufficient elasticity and there will be no risk of noticeable glare.

Further, it is preferable that the single yarn fineness of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is 0.5 to 10 dtex, respectively, from the viewpoint of imparting minimum firmness to the woven or knitted fabric. When the single yarn fineness of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is within the above-mentioned preferred ranges, fluffing and shine are unlikely to occur even after repeated washing and abrasion. However, there is no risk that the glare will become noticeable.

The ratio of non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A to cationic dyeable polyester filament B (A/B: mass ratio) is preferably in the range of 20/80 to 80/20. In order to reduce glare, a low light dyeing ratio of 20/80 to 45/55 is more preferable.

Specific examples of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A of the present invention include, but are not limited to, aromatic polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, and aliphatic polyesters such as polylactic acid and polyglycolic acid. Not done. Among these, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate are preferred because they have excellent mechanical properties and durability, and are easy to handle during production and use. Further, polyethylene terephthalate is preferable because it provides the firmness and stiffness characteristic of polyester fibers. Furthermore, it is preferable to use a bimetallic structure to develop crimp, since the filaments come apart and glare is reduced. Preferred are bimetallic structures of polyethylene terephthalate and polypropylene terephthalate, or polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate.

As a specific example of the cationically dyeable polyester filament B, if the polyester has an anionic moiety such as a sulfonic acid group, it has cationic dyeability due to interaction with a cationic dye having a cationic moiety. Specific examples of the copolymer components of the cationic dyeable polyester include 5-sulfoisophthalic acid metal salts, including, but not limited to, lithium salts, sodium salts, potassium salts, rubidium salts, and cesium salts. Among these, lithium salts and sodium salts are preferred, and sodium salts are particularly preferred because they have excellent crystallinity. The copolymerization rate of the 5-sulfoisophthalic acid metal salt is preferably 0.1 to 8 mol%.

Next, the method for manufacturing composite textured yarn of the present invention will be explained.

First, in spinning the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B of the present invention, the spinning speed of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A is set higher than the spinning speed of the cationic dyeable polyester filament B. It is preferable to do so. This increases the orientation of the filaments A, causing them to rotate around the core during composite false twisting. As a result, the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the filament A is reduced, and the occurrence of glare and shine can be reduced, which is preferable.

Furthermore, when feeding the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B to the feed roller, a separate feed roller may be used to provide a difference in the draw ratio during false twisting. For example, by setting the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A to a higher draw ratio than the cationic dyeable polyester filament B, the filament A will rotate around the core during composite false twisting. As a result, the degree of cross-sectional deformation is reduced, and the occurrence of glare and shine can be reduced, which is preferable.

In blending the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B of the present invention, any blending means such as interlace processing and taslan processing can be used, but preferably the filament A, This is an interlacing process that has a high migration effect on B yarn and can reduce glare and shine.
At this time, in order to suppress the occurrence of shine caused by the loss of the heathered feel due to repeated washing and abrasion, it is preferable to impart strong entanglement to the threads. Further, in consideration of cost, it is preferable that the entangling pressure is 0.2 to 0.6 (MPA).

Further, it is preferable that the interlacing is applied after the composite false twisting. When interlacing is applied after false twisting, it is possible to prevent the degree of cross-sectional deformation of filament A from increasing at the interlacing convergence part without reducing the migration effect between filaments during false twisting, resulting in glare and shine. There is no risk of it happening.

Furthermore, any false twisting conditions can be selected as the composite false twisting conditions. Any of the spindle type, friction desk type, and belt nip type may be used for the twister, but the friction desk type is preferable because it allows false twisting at high speed and causes relatively little cross-sectional deformation during false twisting.

In the case of a contact type heater, the false-twisting temperature is preferably 150 to 200°C, since it is possible to both provide strong crimp that does not deteriorate due to repeated washing or abrasion, and suppress cross-sectional deformation during false-twisting.

Regarding the number of false twists, it is recommended to set the false twist coefficient (number of false twists (T/M) x fineness (dtex) ^0.5 ) between 18,000 and 32,000 to suppress deformation of the false twist cross section and prevent washing and abrasion. This is preferable in that it simultaneously provides strong crimp that does not deteriorate with repeated use.

Furthermore, before false twisting, the yarn may be subjected to low-magnification heat treatment and stretching using hot pins to impart thick and thin portions to the yarn. By imparting thick and thin filaments to create a random heathered feel, glare and shine can be made even less noticeable, but the false twist cross-sectional deformation of the thick portion increases, so care must be taken with the hot pin drawing conditions. Preferable hot pin stretching conditions are 1.2 to 1.8 times, and hot pin temperature conditions are in the range of 70 to 90°C.

As for the yarn processing speed, it is preferable to increase the productivity if it is fast, but in consideration of stable processability, 200 to 800 (m/min) is preferable.

The composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention thus produced is made into a woven fabric or knitted fabric using a known weaving method or knitting method. Any known structure can be used as the woven structure or knitted structure.

In the present invention, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics are collectively referred to as "woven or knitted fabrics". The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not restricted in any way by structure or density.

The loom used for weaving may be any commonly used loom, rapier, water jet loom, air jet loom, etc. without particular limitation. Among these, a rapier loom capable of weaving with low tension on the weft is preferred.

Further, for knitting, commercially available knitting machines such as a circular knitting machine, a tricot machine, and a Raschel machine can be used. When the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is used for at least a portion of the knitting yarn, it is necessary to perform knitting while optimizing the tension of each yarn. As for the knitting structure, arbitrary designs such as jersey, smooth, punch, rib, and half stitches are possible.

Further, the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention may be twisted under arbitrary conditions in order to obtain the desired texture and firmness, but the preferred number of twists is 2,000 T/M or less. When the number of twists is within the above preferred range, the filaments are less likely to form a converged shape, and there is no risk that glare will become noticeable.

Next, the dyeing process will be explained. The dyeing process can be carried out according to the dyeing process and conditions for general polyester filament woven or knitted fabrics. Among these, in order to sufficiently develop the crimp of the filaments, it is preferable that the relaxing heat treatment imparts a fir effect to the fabric by a high temperature, high pressure liquid flow relaxing process at 120° C. or higher.

Further, in order to suppress washing shrinkage, it is preferable that the intermediate set temperature is 170°C or more and 210°C or less. When the intermediate set temperature is within the above preferable range, there is no fear that the filaments will fuse together.

In the present invention, in order to obtain a soft texture, the woven or knitted fabric may be subjected to alkali weight loss, but the preferable weight loss rate is 15% or less. When the weight loss rate is within the above preferred range, the cationic dyeable polyester filament B will not become brittle and will not become fluffy or shiny even after repeated washing and abrasion.

Although a napping process may be applied to obtain a fluffy texture, the preferred napping method is sanding (buffing). If the napping method is carried out in accordance with the above-mentioned preferred method, there is no fear that the fabric will become fluffy or shiny even after repeated washing and abrasion.

In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the discoloration after washing and abrasion is grade 3 or higher. As a result, even after repeated washing and abrasion, it is possible to obtain a fabric with less noticeable shine and excellent durability against washing and abrasion.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.
(1) Fineness Using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.0 m, 100 skeins were produced, and the fineness was measured according to the following formula.

Fineness (dtex) = weight of 100 skeins (g) x 100
(2) Strength and elongation The sample was measured using a tensile tester ("TENSILON" UCT-100 manufactured by Orientec) under the constant speed elongation conditions shown in JIS L 1013 (2010) 8.5.1 standard time test. . At this time, the gripping interval was 20 cm, the pulling speed was 20 cm/min, and the number of tests was 10 times. Incidentally, the elongation at break was determined from the elongation at the point showing the maximum strength on the SS curve.
(3) Degree of entanglement The degree of entanglement is the number of entangled parts per 1 m under a tension of 0.1 cN/dtex. The pin was moved up and down in the longitudinal direction of the yarn with a tension of 0.1 cN/dtex over a period of time, and the distance traveled was recorded as the part where it moved without resistance was defined as the unentangled part, and the part where the pin stopped was defined as the intertwined part. This operation was repeated 30 times, and the degree of entanglement per 1 m was calculated from the average value of the distance of the unentangled portion.
(4) Crimp ratio After winding the yarn 10 times under a tension of 90 mg/dtex on a measuring machine with a circumferential length of 0.8 m and removing the skein, the yarn was hung from a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 24 hours. The skein was wrapped in gauze and treated with hot water at 90° C. for 20 minutes under no tension, and then hung from a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 12 hours. After standing, one end of the skein was hung on a hook, and an initial load and a measurement load were applied to the other end, and the skein was suspended in water and left for 2 minutes. At this time, the initial load (g) was 2 mg/dtex, the measured load (g) was 90 mg/dtex, and the water temperature was 20±2°C. The length of the inside of the left skein was measured and determined to be L. Furthermore, the measuring load was removed and the initial load was left alone for 2 minutes, and the length of the inside of the left skein was measured and determined as _L1 . The crimp was determined using the following formula, this operation was repeated five times, and the average value was determined.

Crimp rate (%) = {(LL ₁ )/L} x 100
(5) Number of recesses After cutting the processed yarn to a thickness of 5 μm in the cross-sectional direction of the fiber, a cross-sectional photograph is taken with an optical microscope. In the cross-sectional view of the fiber, a straight line that touches the cross-sectional contour at multiple contact points S ₁ and S ₂ When _T1 was pulled, the number of recesses between the contacts was counted. Note that the measurement was performed on an average of 50 filaments for each of filaments A and B. Calculated by rounding to the first decimal place.
(6) Evaluation of wear after washing The samples were washed once in a two-tank washing machine at a liquid temperature of 40° C., washing time of 5 minutes, rinsing at 30° C. x 2 minutes x 2 times, and spin-drying for 30 seconds. The detergent used was Kao's "Attack" (registered trademark) at 1 g/L, the liquid volume was 40 L, and the total weight of the test cloth and the cotton cloth used as the guide cloth was 830 g. After repeating this washing operation 50 times, abrasion was carried out 5,000 times according to the JIS L 1096E method (Martindale method), and the grade was determined using a gray scale for discoloration and fading.

< Reference example 1>
Polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 2.5% by mass and a round cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to obtain a partially oriented yarn of polyester filament A with a fineness of 140 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 170%. Ta. Next, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 0.7% by mass of titanium oxide and 0.3mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate with a round cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to a fineness of 260 dtex. A partially oriented yarn of cationic dyeable polyester filament B having 24 filaments and an elongation of 170% was obtained.

Then, the partially oriented filaments A and B are aligned and processed using a friction false twisting machine at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a stretching ratio of 1.7 times, a heater temperature of 180°C, and a false twisting coefficient: Composite false twisting was performed at 28,000, followed by interlacing at an interlacing pressure of 0.3 MPa, fineness: 235 dtex, strength: 2.5 cN/dtex, elongation: 35%, crimp rate: 33%, A composite processed yarn with a number of entanglements of 58/m was obtained. The degree of cross-sectional deformation was 3.2 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 3.0 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Further, the number of recesses was 0 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 1 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Thereafter, the above yarns were used for the warp (600 T/M) and the weft (untwisted), and a 2/1 twill fabric was used on a rapier loom with a gray density (warp: 75 threads/inch (2.54 cm), weft: 70 Weaving was carried out using 1/inch (2.54 cm).

Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous spreading scouring at 98°C, liquid flow relaxing at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing at 130°C (disperse dye + cationic dye), and finishing setting at 160°C to obtain a product.

The obtained fabric has a processing density (warp: 95 threads/inch, weft: 85 threads/inch), has an excellent heathered feel, and has suppressed gloss, with almost no glare. It was something. In addition, the abrasion discoloration after washing was grade 3.5, and even after repeated washing and abrasion, the fabric had almost no noticeable shine. This fabric had an excellent heathered feel and a fluffy feel, and was suitable as a wool-like material.

<Example 1 >
Polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 2.5% by mass and an eight-leaf cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to produce partially oriented polyester filament A yarn with a fineness of 140 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 170%. Obtained. Next, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with titanium oxide content of 0.7% by mass and 0.3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with an eight-lobed cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 2,000 (m/min) to a fineness of 260 dtex. A partially oriented yarn of cationic dyeable polyester filament B having 24 filaments and an elongation of 210% was obtained.

Then, the partially oriented filaments A and B are fed from separate feed rollers and processed using a friction false twisting machine at a processing speed of 400 m/min, filament A draw ratio: 1.7, filament B draw ratio: Composite false twisting was performed at 1.65 times, heater temperature: 170°C, false twisting coefficient: 28,000, and then interlace processing was performed at entangling pressure: 0.2 MPa, fineness: 230 dtex, strength: 2.4 cN/ A composite processed yarn with dtex, elongation: 37%, crimp rate: 28%, and number of entanglements: 40 pieces/m was obtained. The degree of cross-sectional deformation was 2.3 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 3.5 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Further, the number of recesses was 8 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 8 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Thereafter, using the above yarn as the warp (300T/M) and weft (untwisted), a 2/1 twill fabric was fabricated using a rapier loom with a gray fabric density (warp: 75 threads/inch (2.54 cm), weft: 70 Weaving was carried out using 1/inch (2.54 cm).

Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous spreading scouring at 98°C, liquid flow relaxing at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing at 130°C (disperse dye + cationic dye), and finishing setting at 160°C to obtain a product.

The obtained fabric has a processing density (warp: 94 threads/inch, weft: 83 threads/inch), has an excellent heathered feel, and has suppressed gloss, with no glare at all. It was something. In addition, the abrasion discoloration after washing was grade 4.5, and even after repeated washing and abrasion, the fabric did not show any noticeable shine. This fabric had an excellent heathered feel and a fluffy feel, and was suitable as a wool-like material.

<Example 2 >
Polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 6.5% by mass and a hexagonal cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to obtain partially oriented polyester filament A yarn with a fineness of 140 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 175%. Ta. Next, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with titanium oxide content of 0.7% by mass and 0.3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate with a hexagonal cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 2,000 (m/min) to a fineness of 260 dtex. A partially oriented yarn of cationic dyeable polyester filament B having 24 filaments and an elongation of 210% was obtained.

Then, the partially oriented filaments A and B were fed from separate feed rollers of a friction false twisting machine, and drawn at a low magnification of 1.4 times and 1.5 times, respectively, at 75° C. with a hot pin. After that, composite false twisting was performed at processing speed: 400 m/min, stretching ratio: 1.2, heater temperature: 180°C, false twisting coefficient: 27,000, and then interlace processing was performed at entangling pressure: 0.3 MPa. A composite processed yarn having a fineness of 230 dtex, a strength of 2.3 cN/dtex, an elongation of 43%, a crimp rate of 25%, and a number of entanglements of 50 pieces/m was obtained. The degree of cross-sectional deformation was 2.8 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 4.5 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Further, the number of recesses was 6 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 5 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Thereafter, using the above yarn as the warp (600T/M) and weft (untwisted), a 2/1 twill fabric was fabricated using a rapier loom with a gray fabric density (warp: 75 threads/inch (2.54 cm), weft: 70 Weaving was carried out using 1/inch (2.54 cm).

Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous spreading scouring at 98°C, liquid flow relaxing at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing at 130°C (disperse dye + cationic dye), and finishing setting at 160°C to obtain a product.

The obtained fabric has a processing density (warp: 93 threads/inch, weft: 83 threads/inch), has a very good heathered feel, and has suppressed gloss, with almost no glare. It was something that didn't exist. In addition, the abrasion discoloration after washing was grade 4.5, and even after repeated washing and abrasion, the fabric did not show any noticeable shine. This fabric had an excellent heathered feel and fluffy feel, making it suitable as a wool-like material.

<Comparative example 1>
Polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 0.7% by mass and a round cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to obtain a partially oriented yarn of polyester filament A with a fineness of 140 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 165%. Ta. Next, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 0.7% by mass of titanium oxide and 0.3mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate with a round cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to a fineness of 260 dtex. A partially oriented yarn of cationic dyeable polyester filament B having 24 filaments and an elongation of 170% was obtained.

Then, the partially oriented filaments A and B are aligned and processed using a friction false twisting machine at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a stretching ratio of 1.7 times, a heater temperature of 180°C, and a false twisting coefficient: Composite false twisting was performed at 28,000, followed by interlacing at an interlacing pressure of 0.3 MPa, fineness: 236 dtex, strength: 2.5 cN/dtex, elongation: 37%, crimp rate: 32%, A composite processed yarn with a number of entanglements of 56/m was obtained. The degree of cross-sectional deformation was 3.3 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 3.0 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Further, the number of recesses was 0 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 1 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Thereafter, the above yarns were used for the warp (600 T/M) and the weft (untwisted), and a 2/1 twill fabric was used on a rapier loom with a gray density (warp: 75 threads/inch (2.54 cm), weft: 70 Weaving was carried out using 1/inch (2.54 cm).

Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous spreading scouring at 98°C, liquid flow relaxing at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing at 130°C (disperse dye + cationic dye), and finishing setting at 160°C to obtain a product.

The obtained woven fabric has a processing density (warp: 94 threads/inch, weft: 85 threads/inch), and the obtained woven fabric has an excellent heathered feel, but the luster is poor due to the glare in the lightly dyed areas. It was noticeable. Further, the abrasion discoloration after washing was grade 2, and the shine was noticeable due to repeated washing and abrasion.

<Comparative example 2>
Polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 0.7% by mass and a hexagonal cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min) to obtain a partially oriented yarn of polyester filament A with a fineness of 140 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 165%. Ta. Next, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 0.3 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with a titanium oxide content of 2.5% by mass and a hexagonal cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 2,000 (m/min) to a fineness of 260 dtex. A partially oriented yarn of cationic dyeable polyester filament B having 24 filaments and an elongation of 210% was obtained.

Then, the partially oriented filaments A and B are aligned and processed using a friction false twisting machine at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a stretching ratio of 1.7 times, a heater temperature of 180°C, and a false twisting coefficient: Composite false twisting was performed at 28,000 yen, followed by interlacing at an interlacing pressure of 0.3 MPa, fineness: 242 dtex, strength: 2.6 cN/dtex, elongation: 40%, crimp rate: 30%, A composite processed yarn with a number of entanglements of 54/m was obtained. The degree of cross-sectional deformation was 2.4 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 3.4 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Further, the number of recesses was 6 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and 6 for the cationic dyeable polyester filament B.

Thereafter, using the above yarn as the warp (600T/M) and weft (untwisted), a 2/1 twill fabric was fabricated using a rapier loom with a gray fabric density (warp: 75 threads/inch (2.54 cm), weft: 70 Weaving was carried out using 1/inch (2.54 cm).

Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous spreading scouring at 98°C, liquid flow relaxing at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing at 130°C (disperse dye + cationic dye), and finishing setting at 160°C to obtain a product.

The obtained woven fabric has a processing density (warp: 95 threads/inch, weft: 85 threads/inch), and the obtained woven fabric has a whitish heathered feel, and the gloss has a glittery feeling in the light dyed area. It was noticeable. Further, the abrasion discoloration after washing was grade 1.5, and the shine was noticeable due to repeated washing and abrasion.

<Comparative example 3>
Polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 2.5% by mass and a round cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m/min), and non-cationic dyeable polyester filaments with a fineness of 140 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 170% were partially oriented. Yarn A1 was obtained. Next, polyethylene terephthalate with a titanium oxide content of 0.7% by mass and a round cross section was spun at a spinning speed of 2,000 (m/min) to form a non-cationic dyeable polyester filament with a fineness of 250 dtex, 24 filaments, and an elongation of 200%. I got A2.

Then, the partially oriented yarns of the above two types of filaments were aligned and processed using a friction false twisting machine at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a stretching ratio of 1.7 times, a heater temperature of 200°C, a false twisting coefficient of 28 ,000, and then interlace processing was performed at an interlacing pressure of 0.3 MPa, fineness: 230 dtex, strength: 3.0 cN/dtex, elongation: 35%, crimp rate: 38%, interlacing. A composite processed yarn with a number of 53 yarns/m was obtained. The degree of cross-sectional deformation was 2.4 for polyester filament A1 and 3.1 for polyester filament A2.

Further, the number of recesses was 0 for the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A1 and 0 for A2.

Thereafter, using the above yarn as the warp (600T/M) and weft (untwisted), a 2/1 twill fabric was fabricated using a rapier loom with a gray fabric density (warp: 75 threads/inch (2.54 cm), weft: 70 Weaving was carried out using 1/inch (2.54 cm).

Next, the obtained woven fabric was subjected to continuous spreading scouring at 98°C, liquid flow relaxing at 130°C, intermediate setting at 180°C, dyeing (disperse dye) at 130°C, and finishing setting at 160°C to obtain a product.

The obtained woven fabric had a processing density (warp: 97 threads/inch, weft: 87 threads/inch), and the obtained woven fabric did not have a heathered feel, and the luster had a noticeable local glare. Ta. Further, the abrasion discoloration after washing was grade 2.5, and the shine was slightly noticeable due to repeated washing and abrasion.

The composite processed yarn and woven or knitted fabric obtained by the present invention can be used in a wide range of clothing, from casual to formal to sports clothing. It is particularly suitable for use in suits, blazers, coats, skirts, and pants for women's clothing, as well as outerwear, bottoms, and jackets for men.

S ₁ Point of contact between the straight line T ₁ and the fiber cross-sectional profile S ₂ Point of contact between the straight line T ₁ and the fiber cross-sectional profile T ₁ Straight line U that touches the fiber cross-sectional profile at S ₁ and S ₂ Between the contact point S ₁ and the contact point S ₂ recess of

Claims (4)

A composite false twisted yarn consisting of at least non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and cationic dyeable polyester filament B, the inorganic fine particle content of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A is 1.5 to 20.0% by mass, The inorganic fine particle content of the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is 0.001 to 1.0% by mass, and the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A is greater than the degree of cross-sectional deformation of the cationic dyeable polyester filament B. Composite false-twisted yarn characterized by being smaller than 1.2 . The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1 , wherein at least one of the non-cationic dyeable polyester filament A and the cationic dyeable polyester filament B is a filament yarn having a cross-sectional shape having 3 to 10 recesses. . A woven or knitted fabric using the composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2 . The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3 , characterized in that the discoloration due to abrasion after washing is grade 3 or higher.

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