JP7403299B2 - オイルゲル組成物および化粧料 - Google Patents
オイルゲル組成物および化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JP7403299B2 JP7403299B2 JP2019223851A JP2019223851A JP7403299B2 JP 7403299 B2 JP7403299 B2 JP 7403299B2 JP 2019223851 A JP2019223851 A JP 2019223851A JP 2019223851 A JP2019223851 A JP 2019223851A JP 7403299 B2 JP7403299 B2 JP 7403299B2
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- acid
- poe
- derivatives
- gelling agent
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 26
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- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 49
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- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 32
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 16
- JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N urethane group Chemical group NC(=O)OCC JOYRKODLDBILNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
Description
(A)油分と、
(B)増粘剤と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物であって、
(A)油分中の極性油が組成物全量に対し60質量%未満であり、
(B)増粘剤が、
(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤および/または アミノ酸ゲル化剤を組成物全量と、
(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上と、
を含むものである。
(A)油分と、
(B)増粘剤と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物であって、
(A)油分中の極性油が組成物全量に対し60質量%未満であり、
(B)増粘剤が、
(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤および/または アミノ酸ゲル化剤と、
(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上と、
を含むので、発汗性や油の浸み出しを高いレベルで抑制することが可能である。
本発明のオイルゲル組成物は、
(A)油分と、
(B)増粘剤と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物であって、
(A)油分中の極性油が組成物全量に対し60質量%未満であり、
(B)増粘剤が、
(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤および/または アミノ酸ゲル化剤と、
(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上と、
を含むものである。
本発明のオイルゲル組成物に含まれる油分は、特に限定されるものではなく、極性油、シリコーン油、非極性油等の液状油分、固形油分、半固形油分等のいずれを用いてもよいが、極性油は組成物全量に対し60質量%未満である。極性油が組成物全量に対し60質量%未満であることで、発汗性や油の浸み出しを高いレベルで抑制することができる。組成物全量に対する極性油の割合は55質量%以下であってもよく、50質量%以下、さらには45質量%以下であってもよい。
なお、IOB値とは、Inorganic/Organic Balance(無機性/有機性比)の略であって、無機性値の有機性値に対する比率を表す値であり、有機化合物の極性の度合いを示す指標となるものである。IOB値は、具体的には、
IOB値=無機性値/有機性値
として表される。ここで、「無機性値」、「有機性値」のそれぞれについては、例えば、分子中の炭素原子1個について「有機性値」が20、同水酸基1個について「無機性値」が100といったように、各種原子または官能基に応じた「無機性値」、「有機性値」が設定されており、有機化合物中の全ての原子および官能基の「無機性値」、「有機性値」を積算することによって、当該有機化合物のIOB値を算出することができる(例えば、藤田著、「化学の領域」第11巻、第10号、第719頁~第725頁、1957年参照)。
エステル油の具体例としては、ジネオペンタン酸トリプロピレングリコール、イソノナン酸イソノニル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、乳酸セチル、乳酸ミリスチル、酢酸ラノリン、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、12-ヒドロキシステアリン酸コレステリル、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、ジ-2-エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステル、モノイソステアリン酸N-アルキルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、ジ-2-ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリン、トリ-2-エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ-2-エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリチル、トリエチルヘキサノイン(トリ-2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン)、トリオクタン酸グリセリン、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、セチル2-エチルヘキサノエート、2-エチルヘキシルパルミテート、トリミリスチン酸グリセリン、トリ-2-ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセライド、ヒマシ油脂肪酸メチルエステル、オレイン酸オレイル、アセトグリセライド、パルミチン酸2-ヘプチルウンデシル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸-2-オクチルドデシルエステル、アジピン酸ジ-2-ヘプチルウンデシル、エチルラウレート、セバシン酸ジ-2-エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸2-ヘキシルデシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、コハク酸2-エチルヘキシル、クエン酸トリエチル等が挙げられる。
ジベンゾイルメタン誘導体としては、4-tert-ブチル-4’ -メトキシジベンゾイルメタン(例えば「パルソール1789」)などが例示される。
ベンゾフェノン誘導体としては、ベンゾフェノン-1(例えば「ユビナール400」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン-2(例えば「ユビナールD50」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン-3またはオキシベンゾン(例えば「ユビナールM40」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン-4(例えば「ユビナールMS40」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン-5、ベンゾフェノン-6(例えば「ヘリソーブ(Helisorb)11」;ノルクアイ社)、ベンゾフェノン-8 (例えば「スペクトラ-ソーブ(Spectra-Sorb)UV-24」;アメリカン・シアナミド社)、ベンゾフェノン-9(例えば「ユビナールDS-49」;BASF社)、ベンゾフェノン-12などが例示される。
フェニルベンゾイミダゾール誘導体としては、フェニルベンゾイミダゾールスルホン酸(例えば「ユーソレックス232」;メルク社)、フェニルジベンゾイミダゾールテトラスルホン酸二ナトリウム( 例えば「ネオ・ヘリオパンAP」;ハーマン・アンド・レイマー社)などが例示される。
イミダゾリン誘導体としては、エチルヘキシルジメトキシベンジリデンジオキソイミダゾリンプロピオナートなどが例示される。
4,4-ジアリールブタジエン誘導体としては、1,1-ジカルボキシ(2,2’-ジメチルプロピル)-4,4-ジフェニルブタジエンなどが例示される。
極性油は、1種を単独で使用してもよいし、2種以上を併用してもよい。
(B)増粘剤は、(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤および/またはアミノ酸ゲル化剤と、(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上とを含む。(B)成分として、(B1)成分と(B2)成分の双方を含むことで発汗性や油の浸み出しを高いレベルで抑制することができる。その作用機序が必ずしも明らかではないが、(B1)成分と(B2)成分は増粘機構が異なり、両者を組み合わせることで互いの増粘機構に足りない部分を補うことが可能になると考えている。
(B1)成分は、脂肪酸ゲル化剤を単独(ここでいう単独とは、脂肪酸ゲル化剤を1種類含む場合の他、2種類以上の脂肪酸ゲル化剤を含む場合も含む)で用いても、アミノ酸ゲル化剤を単独(ここでいう単独とは、アミノ酸ゲル化剤を1種類含む場合の他、2種類以上のアミノ酸ゲル化剤を含む場合も含む)で用いても、あるいは脂肪酸ゲル化剤およびアミノ酸ゲル化剤の双方の種類を用いてもよい。特に、(B1)成分に、脂肪酸ゲル化剤およびアミノ酸ゲル化剤の双方を含む場合、脂肪酸ゲル化剤の構造体とアミノ酸ゲル化剤の構造体のそれぞれに相性のよい油があるため、とりわけ多種類の油分を含む複雑系の組成物においては、より効果的に組み合わさって増粘させることができる。
脂肪酸ゲル化剤としては、脂肪酸またはその塩、グリセリル脂肪酸エステル等が好ましく挙げられる。
アミノ酸ゲル化剤は、ジブチルラウロイルグルタミド(N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジブチルアミド)、ジブチルエチルヘキサノイルグルタミド、ポリアミド‐8、ポリアミド-3等を挙げることができる。
(B2)成分は、多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上である。(B2)成分は、組成物全量に対し0.1~10質量%であることが好ましく、より好ましくは0.3~8質量%であり、さらには0.5~7質量%であることが好ましい。(B1)成分が0.1質量%以上であることで、発汗性や油の浸み出しをより高いレベルで抑制することができ、10質量%以下であることで、使用性をより良好なものとすることができる。
多糖およびその誘導体としては、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル等が好ましく挙げられる。
ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物としては、ヒマシ油とイソホロンジイソシアネート(IPDI)の共重合体であるヒマシ油/IPDIコポリマー等が挙げられる。市販品としては、EstogelM(ヒマシ油/IPDIコポリマー(トリ(カプリルカプリル酸)グリセリドに溶解)DKSH社製)が挙げられる。高分子の油相増粘剤を添加することにより、良好な使用感触を維持しながら、高いレベルで油の浸み出し、発汗を抑制することが可能である。
ビタミンとしては、例えば、ビタミンA 、B1、B2、B6、C、Eおよびその誘導体、パントテン酸およびその誘導体、ビオチン等が挙げられる。
下記表1および2に挙げた成分を常法により調製し、スティック状の容器に流し込み、冷却固化してスティック状化粧料とし、以下の基準で評価を行った。
表1および2に示す各例のスティック状化粧料を、30℃で1か月間保管した後、表1に示す基準1と比較した発汗を以下の基準で、室温にて評価した。
A:発汗がほぼ確認されないか、やや発汗するものの大幅な改善傾向にある
B:発汗が基準よりも減少し改善が確認される
C:発汗が基準と同程度である
D:発汗が基準よりも多い
次に、下記表3に挙げた組成を有する組成物(油中水型乳化組成物)を常法により調製し、容器に入れて30℃で1か月間保管した後、上記(発汗評価)と同様にして評価を行った。なお、基準は表3に挙げている基準2とした。
[項目1]
(A)油分と、
(B)増粘剤と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物であって、
前記(A)油分中の極性油が組成物全量に対し60質量%未満であり、
前記(B)増粘剤が、
(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤および/またはアミノ酸ゲル化剤と、
(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物。
[項目2]
前記(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤および/またはアミノ酸ゲル化剤が、組成物全量に対し0.1~15質量%である項目1記載のオイルゲル組成物。
[項目3]
前記(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上が、組成物全量に対し0.1~10質量%である項目1または2記載のオイルゲル組成物。
[項目4]
前記(A)油分中のシリコーン油が組成物全量に対し40質量%以下である項目1、2または3記載のオイルゲル組成物。
[項目5]
前記(B2)の増粘剤がウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物である項目1~4いずれか1項記載のオイルゲル組成物。
[項目6]
固形である、項目1~5いずれか1項記載のオイルゲル組成物。
[項目7]
項目1~6いずれか1項記載のオイルゲル組成物を基剤として含有する化粧料。
Claims (7)
- (A)油分と、
(B)増粘剤と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物であって、
前記(A)油分中のシリコーン油以外の極性油が組成物全量に対し60質量%未満であり、
前記(B)増粘剤が、
(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤およびアミノ酸ゲル化剤と、
(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上と、
を含むオイルゲル組成物。 - 前記(B1)脂肪酸ゲル化剤およびアミノ酸ゲル化剤が、組成物全量に対し0.1~15質量%である請求項1記載のオイルゲル組成物。
- 前記(B2)多糖およびその誘導体、ウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物から選択される1種以上が、組成物全量に対し0.1~10質量%である請求項1または2記載のオイルゲル組成物。
- 前記(A)油分中のシリコーン油が組成物全量に対し40質量%以下である請求項1、2または3記載のオイルゲル組成物。
- 前記(B2)の増粘剤がウレタン骨格を有する高分子化合物である請求項1~4いずれか1項記載のオイルゲル組成物。
- 固形である、請求項1~5いずれか1項記載のオイルゲル組成物。
- 請求項1~6いずれか1項記載のオイルゲル組成物を基剤として含有する化粧料。
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