JP7647311B2 - Water-based skin care products - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an aqueous skin cosmetic that spreads well when applied, has a refreshing moisturizing effect, and provides a feeling of penetration even in the summer when the skin tends to become sticky due to sweat and sebum.

Skin cosmetics are used to supply moisture and moisturizing ingredients to the skin and prevent dryness and rough skin. In particular, in winter, skin problems caused by dryness are likely to occur, so cosmetics with high moisturizing properties tend to be preferred. On the other hand, although dryness is less likely to occur in summer, the skin is prone to stickiness due to sweat and sebum, so cosmetics with a relatively refreshing feel tend to be preferred over highly moisturizing cosmetics. However, in recent years, it is known that in summer, ultraviolet rays, air conditioners, and excessive sebum secretion have weakened the skin's barrier function, causing a lack of moisture inside the skin (inner dryness), leading to dry skin even in summer. For this reason, there is a demand for cosmetics that have both high moisturizing properties to prevent dryness and a refreshing feel that is not sticky.

One method to increase the moisturizing properties of skin cosmetics is to incorporate moisturizers such as polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble polymers, and amino acids, but incorporating moisturizers can lead to problems such as stickiness and sliminess, and poor skin compatibility. In addition, the coating sensation created by moisturizers makes it easier to feel a high level of moisturization, but this can be uncomfortable for sticky skin in the summer.
Contrary to the coating sensation, cosmetics that give a feeling of penetration have the advantage of leaving less residual feeling and giving a refreshing feeling, and the feeling of the product penetrating into the skin makes it easy to feel that the inside of the skin is moisturized. However, there are problems such as not being able to provide a sufficient moisturizing feeling, and the fact that the product quickly blends into the skin and spreads poorly when applied. In particular, in the summer, there are problems with the skin not being able to fully penetrate when washing a sweaty face with only water in the morning and not fully removing sebum, or when sweating heavily after a bath.

Patent Document 1 discloses that a topical skin preparation that combines a mixed fatty acid containing a dibasic acid, a glycerin oligoester, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, and a dihydric alcohol has the effect of providing a moisturizing feeling while also providing a refreshing feeling. However, this topical skin preparation is insufficient in terms of spreadability and penetration upon application.

Patent Document 2 discloses that an oil-in-water emulsion composition containing a volatile oil, a polar oil with a specific melting point, a higher alcohol or higher fatty acid that is solid at 25°C, and a hydrophobic powder has excellent moisturizing properties, good spreadability on the skin, and no stickiness. However, this emulsion composition is insufficient in terms of penetration.

Patent Document 3 discloses that an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing a water-soluble thickener and with adjusted emulsion particle size and hardness has a refreshing feel and excellent spreadability and penetration into the skin. However, this emulsion cosmetic is insufficient in terms of moisturizing feel and penetration into sweaty skin in summer.

As described above, there is a demand for water-based skin cosmetics that spread easily when applied, have refreshing moisturizing properties, and can be felt penetrating even in the summer when the skin tends to become sticky due to sweat and sebum.

JP 2015-218135 A JP 2013-199442 A JP 2009-102281 A

The present invention aims to provide an aqueous skin cosmetic that spreads well when applied, has a refreshing moisturizing effect, and provides a feeling of penetration even in the summer when the skin tends to become sticky due to sweat and sebum.

As a result of intensive research into solving the above problems, the inventors discovered that the above problems could be solved by the aqueous skin cosmetic preparation described below, and thus completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention is an aqueous skin cosmetic preparation characterized by containing 0.1 to 10 mass % of component (A), 0.1 to 6 mass % of component (B), and 0.05 to 5 mass % of component (C) below.
(A) a dicarboxylic acid diester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms and a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 10 carbon atoms; (B) an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula [I]: MG-[O(EO)x(PO)y-(BO)z] ₄ ...Formula [I]
(In the formula, MG is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from methyl glucoside. EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, x and y are the average number of moles of EO and PO added, respectively, and 0≦x≦20, 1≦y≦10. When x is not 0, EO and PO are added randomly, and the mass ratio of PO to the total mass of EO and PO is 10 to 45 mass %. BO is an oxybutylene group, z is the average number of moles of BO added, and 0≦z≦4.)
(C) Proteoglycan

The aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention has excellent spreadability when applied and refreshing moisturizing properties, and can provide a feeling of penetration even in the summer when the skin is prone to becoming sticky due to sweat and sebum.

Hereinafter, an embodiment of the present invention will be described.
In this specification, a numerical range defined using the symbol "to" includes both the upper and lower limits of the symbol "to". For example, "2 to 5" means 2 or more and 5 or less.

The aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention contains (A) a dicarboxylic acid diester, (B) an alkylene oxide derivative represented by formula [I], and (C) a proteoglycan. Each component is described below.

<Component (A): Dicarboxylate>
The component (A) used in the present invention is a dicarboxylic acid diester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms and a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
Examples of dicarboxylic acids include oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, and sebacic acid, and dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as succinic acid are preferred.
Examples of the monohydric alcohol include ethanol, ethoxyethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, nonanol, and decanol, and preferred are monohydric alcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethoxyethanol.

Examples of dicarboxylate diesters include diisobutyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, diethoxyethyl succinate, etc. Among these, one type may be used alone, or two or more types may be used in combination.
Among these, from the viewpoint of refreshing moisturizing feeling and penetration feeling, diisopropyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, and diethoxyethyl succinate are preferred, and from the viewpoint of good spreadability, diethoxyethyl succinate is more preferred.

Component (A) can be a commercially available product; for example, diethoxyethyl succinate is "CRODAMOL DES-LQ-(JP)" manufactured by Croda Japan Ltd.

The content of component (A) in the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by mass, based on the total amount of the composition. If the content of component (A) is too low, sufficient spreadability, moisturizing properties, and penetration may not be obtained, and if the content is too high, stability and usability may be reduced.

<Component (B): Alkylene oxide derivative>
The component (B) used in the present invention is an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula [I].
MG-[O(EO)x(PO)y-(BO)z] ₄ ...Formula [I]
In the formula, MG is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from methyl glucoside. EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, and x and y are the average number of moles of EO and PO added, respectively, and 0≦x≦20, 1≦y≦10. When x is not 0, EO and PO are added randomly, and the mass ratio of PO to the total mass of EO and PO is 10 to 45 mass%. BO is an oxybutylene group, and z is the average number of moles of BO added, and 0≦z≦4.
Preferably, 0≦x≦10, 3≦y≦7, and 0≦z≦1. Furthermore, in terms of a refreshing moisturizing feeling and a feeling of penetration after rinsing with water, it is more preferable that x=0, 4≦y≦6, and z=0.

Component (B) can be a commercially available product, such as "Macbiobride MG-20P" (manufactured by NOF Corp., in formula [I], x = 0, y = 5, z = 0) or "Macbiobride MG-10E" (manufactured by NOF Corp., in formula [I], x = 2.5, y = 0, z = 0).

The content of component (B) in the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 to 6% by mass, preferably 0.3 to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 4% by mass, based on the total amount of the composition. If the content of component (B) is too low, the moisturizing feeling and the feeling of penetration may not be sufficiently obtained, and if the content is too high, the good spreadability, refreshing feeling, and stability at high temperatures may decrease.

<Component (C): Proteoglycan>
The component (C) used in the present invention is a proteoglycan.
Proteoglycans are complexes of sugars and proteins with a special structure, and include both animal and vegetable proteoglycans. In the present invention, either animal or vegetable proteoglycans can be used as component (C), but in consideration of production costs and the recent trend toward vegetable raw materials, it is preferable to use vegetable proteoglycans.

As the vegetable proteoglycan, those made from gum arabic obtained from Acacia senegal Willdenow, which belongs to the Acacia genus of the Mimosa family, or from closely related plants of the same genus, are preferably used. Commercially available vegetable proteoglycans include "Arabic Coal SS" (weight average molecular weight: about 200,000, manufactured by San-ei Pharmaceutical Trading Co., Ltd.). In addition, commercially available products as aqueous solutions of proteoglycans can also be used, such as "Phytoproteoglycan (registered trademark)" (weight average molecular weight: about 1.2 million, manufactured by NOF Corp.).
In the aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention, the above-mentioned proteoglycans may be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds.

The weight-average molecular weight of the proteoglycan is preferably 100,000 to 3.5 million, more preferably 150,000 to 2 million, even more preferably 500,000 to 2 million, and particularly preferably 1 million to 1.5 million.

The content of component (C) in the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention is 0.05 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 4% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass, based on the total amount of the composition. If the content of component (C) is too low, a sufficient moisturizing feeling may not be obtained, and if the content is too high, stickiness may occur or stability may decrease.

<Water>
The aqueous skin cosmetic preparation of the present invention usually contains water in addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (C).
As the water, water generally used for cosmetics or pharmaceuticals can be used, and it is preferable to use, for example, ion-exchanged water, purified water, water for injection, etc.
The content of water in the aqueous skin cosmetic preparation of the present invention is set as the amount to make the total amount 100% by mass after adding the above-mentioned components (A) to (C) and, if necessary, other components described below, and is usually 75 to 99.75% by mass, preferably 79 to 99% by mass, and more preferably 75 to 97% by mass.

<Other Ingredients>
In addition to the above-mentioned components (A) to (C) and water, the aqueous skin cosmetic preparation of the present invention may contain other components commonly used in cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, if necessary, within the scope of not impairing the characteristics of the present invention. Examples of other components include nonionic surfactants, moisturizers, sequestering agents, thickeners, pigments, preservatives, pH adjusters, fragrances, etc. Furthermore, if necessary, a hydrophilic organic solvent may be added, and examples of such organic solvents that can be used include ethanol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, etc.

The content of the above other ingredients in the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention can be set according to the amount normally used in cosmetics depending on the purpose, but is usually 25% by mass or less, preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 15% by mass.

The aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a conventional method, for example, by mixing the above-mentioned components (A) to (C) and, if necessary, other components in water and/or an organic solvent and dissolving or dispersing them uniformly.

<Applications>
The aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention can be applied not only to the face but also to various parts of the body. However, since it has excellent refreshing moisturizing properties and provides a feeling of penetration even in the summer when the skin is prone to becoming sticky due to sweat and sebum, it is preferable to apply it to the face, as this makes it easier to feel the effects of the present invention.

The present invention will now be described more specifically with reference to examples and comparative examples.
Aqueous skin cosmetics were prepared using components (A) to (C), component (B'), component (C'), a preservative, and purified water according to the compositions shown in Table 1 (Examples 1 to 4) and Table 2 (Comparative Examples 1 to 5), and were evaluated according to the following methods (1) to (3). The blended components are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
The following ingredients were used as commercially available products. The amount of each ingredient was calculated from the content of the active ingredient (target ingredient) or solid content in the product. When adjusting the total amount to 100% by mass using water, the water contained in the product was also used.

Component (A)
"Krodamol DES-LQ-(JP)" (manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.)
Component (B-1)
"MacbioBride MG-20P" (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
Component (B-2)
"MacbioBride MG-10E" (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
Component (B'-1)
"Diglycerin 801" (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
Component (B'-2)
"PEG #4000" (NOF Corporation)
Component (C)
"Phytoproteoglycan" (NOF Corporation)
Component (C')
"Hyaluronic Acid Liquid HA-LQH1P" (Kewpie Corporation)

<Evaluation method>
Each was evaluated for (1) ease of spreading when applied, (2) refreshing moisturizing feeling, and (3) feeling of penetration after rinsing with water, and was rated into 4 levels according to the following criteria.

(1) Good spreadability when applied Twenty women (aged 23 to 55) were used as panelists to evaluate the good spreadability when the aqueous skin cosmetic preparation (hereinafter also simply referred to as "skin cosmetic preparation") was applied to the face.
(Evaluation Criteria)
2 points: It felt like the product spread well when applied.
1 point: It was felt that the spread when applied was somewhat good.
0 points: The product felt poorly spread when applied.
(Judgment criteria)
The total scores of the 20 participants were calculated and judged as follows:
⊚: Total score of 30 or more: The skin cosmetic spreads well when applied.
◯: Total score is 20 points or more but less than 30 points: The skin cosmetic spreads fairly well when applied.
Δ: Total score is 10 or more and less than 20 points: The skin cosmetic has slightly poor spreadability when applied.
×: Total score is less than 10 points: The skin cosmetic preparation has poor spreadability when applied.

(2) Refreshing Moisturizing Feeling Twenty women (aged 23 to 55) were used as panelists to evaluate the refreshing moisturizing feeling after applying the skin cosmetic preparations to their faces.
(Evaluation Criteria)
2 points: I felt a refreshing moisturizing sensation.
1 point: Felt a slightly refreshing moisturizing sensation.
0 points: Did not feel refreshingly moisturizing.
(Judgment criteria)
The total scores of the 20 participants were calculated and judged as follows:
⊚: Total score is 30 points or more: A skin cosmetic having refreshing moisturizing properties.
Good: Total score is 20 points or more but less than 30 points: A skin cosmetic having a slightly refreshing moisturizing effect.
Δ: Total score is 10 or more but less than 20 points: A skin cosmetic preparation that is refreshing and not very moisturizing.
×: Total score is less than 10 points: The skin cosmetic has absolutely no refreshing moisturizing effect.

(3) Penetration Sensation Immediately After Washing the Face with Water Twenty women (ages 23 to 55) were used as panelists. They stayed in a room at a room temperature of 30° C. and a humidity of 60% for 30 minutes, and after lightly washing their faces with water, the skin cosmetic preparations were applied and the penetration sensation was evaluated.
(Evaluation Criteria)
2 points: A feeling of penetration was felt.
1 point: A slight feeling of penetration was felt.
0 points: No penetration was felt.
(Judgment criteria)
The total scores of the 20 participants were calculated and judged as follows:
⊚: Total score of 30 or more: A skin cosmetic that feels sufficiently absorbed even after rinsing with water.
Good: Total score is 20 or more and less than 30 points: The skin cosmetic preparation has a feeling of penetration even after rinsing with water.
Δ: Total score is 10 or more but less than 20 points: After rinsing with water, the skin cosmetic preparation does not feel like it penetrates very well.
×: Total score less than 10 points: After rinsing with water, the skin cosmetic preparation does not feel penetrated at all.

In the Examples, all of the samples had excellent spreadability upon application and a refreshing moisturizing feeling, and the skin felt sufficiently absorbed even after washing a sweaty face with water.
On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 to 5, sufficient effects were not obtained.
That is, in Comparative Example 1, a component different from component (B) was used, so although there was a moisturizing feeling, there was stickiness and the finish was not refreshing.
In Comparative Example 2, since a component different from component (B) was used, the coating feeling was somewhat strong and the penetration feeling was insufficient.
In Comparative Example 3, since component (C) was not contained, the moisturizing feeling was insufficient.
In Comparative Example 4, since component (A) was not contained, the refreshing moisturizing feeling and the feeling of penetration were insufficient.
In Comparative Example 5, a component different from component (C) was used, and therefore the feeling of penetration was insufficient.

Examples of formulations of the aqueous skin cosmetic according to the present invention are given below, where BG is 1,3-butylene glycol, PEG is polyethylene glycol, and DPG is dipropylene glycol.
[Formulation Example 1] Penetrating lotion (mass%)
"Phytoproteoglycan" (NOF Corp.): 0.95
Polyoxypropylene methyl glucoside (20P.O.): 1.0
Diethoxyethyl succinate: 1.0
BG: 17.0
Ethylhexylglycerin: 0.15
Glyceryl caprylate: 0.15
Preservatives: Appropriate amount pH adjuster: Appropriate amount Water: Remaining amount Fragrance: Appropriate amount

[Formulation Example 2] Penetrating emulsion (mass%)
"Phytoproteoglycan" (NOF Corp.): 0.1
Polyoxypropylene methyl glucoside (20P.O.): 1.0
Diethoxyethyl succinate: 3.0
Squalane: 1.0
Beeswax: 1.0
Glycosyl trehalose: 0.47
PEG-32: 1.0
BG: 5.0
DPG: 5.0
Pentylene glycol: 2.0
Xanthan gum: 0.08
Carbomer: 0.14
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate: 0.27
Arginine: 0.1
Polysorbate 80: 0.3
Behenyl alcohol: 0.8
Glyceryl stearate: 0.75
PEG-75 stearate: 0.3
Phenoxyethanol: 0.3
Allantoin: 0.1
pH adjuster: appropriate amount Water: remaining amount Fragrance: appropriate amount

As with the Examples, Formulation Examples 1 and 2 were also evaluated for (1) ease of spreading when applied, (2) refreshing moisturizing sensation, and (3) penetration after rinsing, and good results were obtained.

Claims (1)

An aqueous skin cosmetic preparation comprising the following components (A) in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by mass, (B) in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by mass, and (C) in an amount of 0.05 to 5% by mass.
(A) a dicarboxylic acid diester of a dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms and a monohydric alcohol having 1 to 10 carbon atoms; (B) an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula [I]: MG-[O(EO)x(PO)y-(BO)z] ₄ ...Formula [I]
(In the formula, MG is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from methyl glucoside. EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, x and y are the average number of moles of EO and PO added, respectively, and 0≦x≦20, 1≦y≦10. When x is not 0, EO and PO are added randomly, and the mass ratio of PO to the total mass of EO and PO is 10 to 45 mass %. BO is an oxybutylene group, z is the average number of moles of BO added, and 0≦z≦4.)
(C) Proteoglycan