JP7658792B2 - Method for evaluating powder, method for designing cosmetics, and powder-containing cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a method for evaluating powder, a method for designing cosmetics, and a powder-containing cosmetic.

People give a wide variety of impressions to others depending on various factors such as their appearance and behavior. Among these, visual information, especially the appearance of a person's face, is one of the most important factors that determine the impression a person has.

For this reason, research is being conducted into technology for acquiring parameters that affect the appearance of a person's face. For example, Patent Document 1 discloses a technology that measures the luminance of a measurement target area on a subject's face, generates a histogram, and evaluates the subject's skin condition from the shape of the histogram.

Patent document 2 discloses a technology that estimates a subject's age by acquiring a facial image of the subject and calculating the intensity of spatial frequencies from the image.

Additionally, skin firmness has been attracting attention as a factor in creating a youthful impression, and methods for visually evaluating skin firmness have been developed.
Patent Document 3 discloses a method for evaluating a subject's cosmetic firmness by calculating the area ratio of high brightness areas to medium brightness areas, or the perimeter ratio of medium brightness areas, from a brightness gradation image.
Patent Document 4 discloses a method for evaluating the firmness of a subject's facial skin by calculating the amount of glossy areas and wrinkled areas present on the skin.

JP 2009-131336 A Re-table No. 2011-162050 JP 2008-93048 A JP 2017-12337 A

The present inventors have conducted extensive research into whether it is possible to evaluate the freshness and firmness of skin using luminance values extracted from photographed images of the skin. As a result, they have confirmed that fresh and firm skin has a large area of high luminance regions and a smooth change in luminance, and have discovered that it is particularly preferable to evaluate the smoothness of the change in luminance using the coefficient of variation of luminance.
Then, by evaluating cosmetic powders with attention to the above parameters, it was found that the powders could be classified into several patterns.

In view of this situation, an object of the present invention is to provide a powder evaluation method for selecting powders that give freshness and firmness to the skin. Furthermore, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic design method for designing cosmetics using powders selected by the powder evaluation method.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a powder-containing cosmetic product that contains a powder that contributes to the effect of providing moisture and firmness to the skin.

The present invention, which solves the above problems, is a powder evaluation method,
The evaluation powder is applied to a skin substitute having a convex curved surface;
an image acquisition step of acquiring an image of the surface of the substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied;
a feature extraction step of extracting optically detectable feature amounts from the image;
and an evaluation step of evaluating the cosmetic effect of the evaluation powder based on the feature amount,
The feature amount is an amount related to the area of a high brightness region in the image and/or the uniformity of brightness distribution, in the powder evaluation method.

In this way, by using optically detectable features, it is possible to select powders that provide a cosmetic effect of giving the skin a fresh and firm look.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the feature amount includes an area of a high luminance region in the image, and the evaluation step is either (X) or (Y) below.
(X) If the area of the high-brightness region on the surface of the skin substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied in the image accounts for 15% or more of the total area of the surface of the skin substitute in the image, the evaluation powder is evaluated as a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
(Y) The area of high-brightness areas in an image of the surface of the skin substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied is compared with the area of the high-brightness areas detected from an image of the surface of the skin substitute before the evaluation powder has been applied, and if the area of the high-brightness areas in the image of the surface of the skin substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied is increased compared to the area before the evaluation powder was applied to the skin substitute, the evaluation powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the evaluation process, the amount relating to the uniformity of the luminance distribution is the coefficient of variation of luminance in the region of medium luminance or less, and if the coefficient of variation is 0.08 or less, the powder to be evaluated is evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the evaluation process, if the amount related to the uniformity of the luminance distribution is a pattern of luminance contour lines in which the luminance changes in a substantially uniform circular manner from the center of the image to the outside, the evaluated powder is evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the evaluation powder is a powder mixture of a powder evaluated as powder A by the powder evaluation method and a powder evaluated as powder B by the powder evaluation method,
the feature amount is an amount related to an area of a high luminance region in the image and a uniformity of luminance distribution,
In the evaluation process, if the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of the powder evaluated to be powder A and the powder evaluated to be powder B, the evaluated powder is evaluated as contributing to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

The evaluation powder further includes a third powder,
In the evaluation process, if the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of a powder mixture of the powder evaluated to be powder A and the powder evaluated to be powder B, the third powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder C) that does not assist or impair the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

The present invention relates to a powder evaluated as powder A by a powder evaluation method,
A powder evaluated as powder B by the powder evaluation method;
The present invention relates to a method for designing a cosmetic composition having a cosmetic effect of providing freshness and firmness to the skin, the method including combining the above.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the method further includes determining a mixing ratio of the powder evaluated as powder A and the powder evaluated as powder B,
Using an evaluation method, the mixing ratio of the powders is determined so that the powder mixture, which is the evaluation powder, is evaluated as having a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the method further includes combining a powder evaluated as powder C by the powder evaluation method.

The present invention includes a step of evaluating a powder selected from pearlescent agents by a powder evaluation method;
evaluating a powder selected from the plate-like powders other than the pearlescent agent by a powder evaluation method;
This method for producing a cosmetic having a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin includes a step of mixing a powder evaluated to be powder A with another powder evaluated to be powder B.

The present invention relates to a powder selected from the pearlescent agents evaluated as Powder A by a powder evaluation method;
The powder-containing cosmetic has a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin, and includes another powder selected from plate-like powders other than the pearl agent, which is evaluated to be Powder B by a powder evaluation method.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio of the powder selected from the pearling agent to the other powder selected from the plate-like powder other than the pearling agent is 1:2 to 1:60.

The present invention is a powder-containing cosmetic that includes a first powder having a light transmittance of 40-60% at wavelengths of 380 nm to 780 nm and a gloss value of 3-15 at an incident angle of 45°, and a second powder having a light transmittance of 65-95% at wavelengths of 380 nm to 780 nm and a gloss value of 2-8 at an incident angle of 45°.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio of the first powder to the second powder is 1:2 to 1:60.

According to the powder evaluation method of the present invention, it is possible to select powders having a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
Furthermore, according to the cosmetic design method of the present invention, it is possible to easily design a cosmetic that contains the powder and has the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

In addition, by applying the powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention, it is possible to achieve a fresh and firm skin condition.

5A and 5B are diagrams showing a method for calculating the occupancy rate of a high luminance area in an embodiment, in which FIG. 5A shows an extraction range of the area of a three-dimensional skin model, and FIG. 5B shows a range of a high luminance region. Photograph (a) shows the surface of a skin model after application of Flamenco Summit Green G30D in an example, and photograph (b) shows the distribution of brightness values extracted from (a). Photograph (a) shows the surface of a skin model after application of Pearl-Glo UVRRPG1086 in an embodiment, and photograph (b) shows the distribution of brightness values extracted from (a). 1A is a photograph showing the surface of a skin model after talc has been applied, and FIG. 1B is a photograph showing the distribution of brightness values extracted from FIG.

The following describes an embodiment of the present invention to aid in understanding the present invention. Note that the following embodiment is an example of the present invention, and can be modified as appropriate within the scope of the claims.

[1] Powder Evaluation Method The powder evaluation method of the present invention is carried out using an optically detectable feature amount as an index from an image of the powder applied to a skin substitute.

The skin substitute is preferably one that mimics human skin in terms of color, texture, elasticity, and surface shape such as pores. For example, commercially available artificial skin, three-dimensional skin models, dolls, balloons, fruits, synthetic leather, etc. can be used as skin substitutes and feature analysis can be performed by applying evaluation powder to them. In the present invention, a centrally convex three-dimensional skin model or a doll is preferably used.

Alternatively, a sample can be created that mimics the changes in the surface shape of the skin, such as pores, that occur when a person's facial expression changes, and used as a substitute for skin. By using such a sample, it is possible to easily evaluate whether the application of the powder produces the desired cosmetic effect.

The "optically detectable feature quantity" in the present invention includes the area of a region of a specific luminance and the luminance distribution. Among them, the area of a high-luminance region having a luminance higher than a predetermined luminance (high-luminance area) and a quantity related to the uniformity of the luminance distribution are preferably included. Furthermore, the coefficient of variation of the luminance, the pattern of the luminance contour line, and the complexity of the medium luminance region are preferably included as quantities related to the uniformity of the luminance distribution.

(1) Evaluation of high brightness area The "high brightness area" in the present invention is an area in an image having a brightness higher than a predetermined brightness. For example, the brightness can be directly extracted in image processing, and the brightness within a certain range from the highest brightness (maximum brightness) in the image can be defined as the high brightness area. Specifically, for an image that has been subjected to gradation conversion, a part having a certain gradation or more can be defined as the high brightness area. More specifically, based on the maximum brightness, the area can be preferably the top 75% or more, more preferably the top 78% or more, and even more preferably the top 80% or more.

A specific brightness range may be defined as a high brightness area, and if an image is converted to 8-bit grayscale (256 gradations) during image processing, an area with 200 gradations or more may be defined as a high brightness area.

Next, we will explain in detail how to evaluate powder when calculating high brightness areas as a feature.

(i) Image Acquisition Step First, the evaluation powder is applied to the surface of the skin substitute. As the skin substitute, a three-dimensional skin model with a central convexity or a doll can be used, and it is preferable to use a three-dimensional skin model. An example of such a three-dimensional skin model is the Bioskin Elasticity Model manufactured by Bealux.
It is preferable that a certain amount of emulsion is applied to the surface of the three-dimensional skin model, and then a specified amount (for example, 0.1 g) of the evaluation powder is applied evenly with a brush or fingers.

Next, an image of the three-dimensional skin model is obtained while irradiating a certain amount of light vertically from above the skin substitute after application. The irradiation angle of the light irradiated onto the three-dimensional skin model is set so that the light is evenly irradiated onto the three-dimensional skin model by setting the light source on a line extending vertically from the apex of the three-dimensional model. In addition, it is preferable to adjust the amount of light irradiated onto the three-dimensional skin model so that the high brightness area of the skin substitute before application of the evaluation powder is 3% to 35% or less of the total area of the skin substitute.

(ii) Feature Extraction Step In the extraction step, a portion of the skin substitute in the acquired image that can be recognized as a skin substitute is set as the extraction target region. For example, when a centrally convex three-dimensional skin model is used, a dome portion that can be used as a skin substitute is set as the extraction target region.

Next, high-luminance areas are extracted from the acquired image. The high-luminance areas may be extracted by visually checking the changes in the high-luminance areas in the image, or by calculating the number of pixels in the high-luminance areas of the image.
When calculating the number of pixels of an image in a high-luminance region, it is preferable to extract the area of a luminance region having 200 gradations or more as the high-luminance area.
In the present invention, when the luminance is specified by a specific numerical value, the luminance indicates a pixel value when an image is converted into an 8-bit grayscale (256 gradations).

(iii) Feature evaluation process If the high-brightness area on the surface of the skin substitute in the extracted image increases compared to the high-brightness area on the surface of the skin substitute in the image before the evaluation powder was applied to the skin substitute, the evaluation powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

Furthermore, when the high brightness area of the surface of the skin substitute in the extracted image preferably accounts for 15% or more, more preferably 18% or more, and more preferably 20% or more of the total area of the surface of the skin substitute in the image, the evaluated powder can also be evaluated as a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
In this case, the total surface area of the skin substitute refers to the total area of extraction target regions in the image that can be recognized as a skin substitute, and is an area that does not include regions other than the skin substitute parts in the image.

In addition to the evaluation of the high luminance area described above, if the maximum luminance of the extracted luminance is between 250 and 255 gradations, the evaluated powder can also be evaluated as a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of giving moisture and firmness to the skin.

By this evaluation method, a powder evaluated as Powder A can increase the high-luminance area of the skin when applied to the skin. Increasing the high-luminance area of the skin can give the skin a fresh and firm appearance.

(2) Evaluation of the Luminance Variation Coefficient Hereinafter, a method for evaluating powders when the luminance variation coefficient is used as a feature amount will be described in detail.
First, in the image acquisition step, an image is acquired in the same procedure as in the case of calculating the high brightness area in (1) above. In addition, in the evaluation of the brightness variation coefficient, it is preferable to use a centrally convex three-dimensional skin model as a substitute for the skin to which the evaluation powder is applied.

Luminance is extracted from the obtained image, and the standard deviation and average value obtained from the extracted luminance are used to calculate the coefficient of variation. Note that, when the luminance is specified by a specific numerical value in the present invention, the luminance indicates the pixel value when the image is converted into an 8-bit grayscale (256 gradations).
The method for setting the extraction target region for extracting luminance is the same as that described in (1) Evaluation of high luminance area above.

The coefficient of variation is preferably calculated using luminance values in the medium luminance or lower range, preferably 180 gradations or lower, more preferably 170 gradations or lower, and particularly preferably 160 gradations or lower.

In addition, when calculating the luminance variation coefficient using a centrally convex three-dimensional skin model, it is preferable to extract the luminance distributed on a perpendicular line drawn at the center of the three-dimensional skin model in the image. Specifically, a vertical line is drawn at the center of the three-dimensional skin model image, and the luminance on the perpendicular line is extracted. Of the obtained luminance, the variation coefficient calculated using the luminance values below 160 gradations can be used as the luminance variation coefficient value used in the evaluation process described below.

In the evaluation step, the calculated coefficient of variation of brightness is evaluated. In the present invention, when the coefficient of variation of brightness is preferably 0.08 or less, more preferably 0.07 or less, and even more preferably 0.06 or less, the evaluated powder can be evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

Such powder classified as powder B, when applied to the skin, can smooth out changes in skin luminance, thereby imparting a fresh and firm appearance to the skin.
Furthermore, powder B, whose extracted luminance contour line pattern is the above-mentioned pattern, is particularly capable of smoothing out changes in skin luminance by reducing the coefficient of variation of skin luminance, thereby imparting a fresh and firm appearance to the skin.

(3) Evaluation of the Luminance Contour Pattern The luminance contour pattern in the present invention can be obtained by directly extracting the luminance from the acquired image and visually checking the distribution of luminance values with different intensities. It can also be obtained by converting the acquired image to 8-bit grayscale (256 gradations) in image processing, setting contour lines for every 10 to 20 gradations for the converted image, and extracting the contour pattern.

A method for evaluating powder when a brightness contour pattern is used as a feature amount will be described in detail below.
First, in the image acquisition step, an image is acquired in the same procedure as in the case of calculating the high luminance area in (1) above. In addition, in the evaluation of the luminance contour pattern, it is preferable to use a three-dimensional skin model with a central convexity as a substitute for the skin to which the evaluation powder is applied.

Next, in the feature extraction process, the luminance contour pattern is extracted using the above-mentioned procedure.
The method for setting the extraction target region for extracting luminance is the same as that described in (1) Evaluation of high luminance area above.

In the feature evaluation process, if the pattern of the extracted luminance contour lines is a pattern in which the luminance changes in a substantially uniform circular shape from the center of the image to the outside, the evaluated powder can be evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. Specifically, if multiple luminance contour lines are distributed in a substantially uniform circular shape without the contour lines intersecting, the evaluated powder can be evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

Such powder classified as powder B, when applied to the skin, can smooth out changes in skin luminance, thereby imparting a fresh and firm appearance to the skin.
Furthermore, powder B, which has the above-mentioned extracted luminance contour line pattern, can impart freshness and firmness to the appearance of the skin, particularly by reducing the coefficient of variation of skin luminance.

(4) Evaluation of Complexity of Mid-Luminance Region The "mid-luminance region" in the present invention can be defined as a specific range of gradation, and more specifically, the maximum luminance can be defined as the highest point, and preferably the upper 55 to 75%, more preferably the upper 60 to 73%, and even more preferably the upper 62 to 71% can be defined as the mid-luminance region.
When an image is converted to 8-bit grayscale (256 gradations) in image processing, the range of 160 to 180 gradations can be regarded as the medium luminance region.

A method for evaluating powder when the complexity of the medium luminance region is used as a feature amount will be described in detail below.
First, in the image acquisition step, an image is acquired in the same procedure as in the case of calculating the high luminance area in (1) above. In addition, in the evaluation of the complexity of the medium luminance area, it is preferable to use a centrally convex three-dimensional skin model as a substitute for the skin to which the evaluation powder is applied.

Next, in the feature extraction process, the mid-luminance region is identified using the above-mentioned procedure. When converted to 8-bit grayscale (256 gradations), a contour image is created by color-coding every certain luminance value, for example, every 20 gradations, and the range of 160 to 180 gradations can be identified as the mid-luminance region.
The method for setting the extraction target area in the extraction step is the same as that described in (1) Evaluation of high luminance area above.

The contour lines of the identified mid-luminance region are used to calculate the complexity of the mid-luminance region. The complexity in the present invention can be calculated by the following formula 1. Here, the specific luminance region refers to a specific luminance region part in the mid-luminance region, and may be a region focusing on a specific contour line existing in the mid-luminance region.
(Equation 1)
Complexity = (perimeter of specific luminance region) ² ÷ (area of specific luminance region)

The perimeter of the specific luminance region can be found by measuring the perimeter of the region surrounded by the contour lines in the medium luminance region. The area of the specific luminance region is the area within the region surrounded by the contour lines, and can be defined specifically by the number of pixels within the region.

In the evaluation step, the calculated complexity value of the mid-luminance region is evaluated. In the present invention, when the complexity value of the mid-luminance region is smaller, the evaluated powder can be evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
For example, by comparing two evaluation powders, the evaluation powder with a smaller calculated complexity value in the mid-brightness region can be evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

Powders classified as Powder B using this evaluation method can smooth out changes in skin luminance when applied to the skin, giving the skin a fresh and firm appearance.

To analyze the high brightness area, brightness variation coefficient, brightness contour pattern, and complexity of the mid-brightness area, publicly known image processing software such as the open source "ImageJ" can be used.

The powder evaluation method of the present invention may be used to evaluate a powder consisting of a single component, or may be used to evaluate a mixture of multiple powders.

The powder evaluation method of the present invention may also be performed on a powder mixture of a powder evaluated as powder A and a powder evaluated as powder B by the powder evaluation method.
By re-evaluating such a powder mixture using the powder evaluation method, it is possible to easily screen for a powder combination that exerts a greater cosmetic effect of providing moisture and firmness to the skin.

The powder mixture can be evaluated by the following procedure.
First, at least one powder is selected from each of the powders evaluated as Powder A and Powder B by the powder evaluation method of the present invention. The selected powders are mixed to prepare an evaluation powder.

The obtained evaluation powder is used to perform the powder evaluation as described above. As the feature quantities for evaluating the evaluation powder, it is preferable to use both the quantity related to the high brightness area and the uniformity of the brightness distribution. In addition, it is preferable to evaluate the powder mixture using a doll.
If the amounts relating to the high luminance area and the uniformity of the luminance distribution satisfy the above criteria in the evaluation process, the powder mixture can be recognized as contributing to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
Such a powder mixture evaluation method can be used to select suitable powder combinations.

Furthermore, the powder evaluation method of the present invention can be used to evaluate other powders intended to be blended together with a powder evaluated as Powder A, a powder evaluated as Powder B, or a mixture thereof in the above powder evaluation method.
In other words, the powder evaluation method of the present invention can be used to evaluate powder C as a powder (third powder) that is further added to a powder evaluated as powder A or powder evaluated as powder B by the above powder evaluation method, or a mixture thereof, and that supplements or does not impair the effect of providing moisture and firmness to the skin.

The evaluation method for the third powder is described in detail below.

First, a mixture (powder mixture) of the powder evaluated as powder A and the powder evaluated as powder B is prepared. For the powder mixture, it is confirmed in advance using the powder evaluation method that the quantities related to the high brightness area and uniformity of brightness distribution among the characteristic quantities satisfy the above criteria.

Next, a third powder is further mixed into the powder mixture, and this is the evaluation powder. The obtained evaluation powder is re-evaluated for the amount related to the high brightness area and the uniformity of the brightness distribution using the powder evaluation method described above.

In the evaluation process, the evaluation of quantities related to the high-brightness area and uniformity of the brightness distribution is performed by comparing a powder mixture containing only the powder evaluated as powder A and the powder evaluated as powder B with an evaluation powder containing a third powder.
In other words, if the evaluation of the high-brightness areas and uniformity of the brightness distribution of the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of the powder mixture, the third powder can be evaluated as a powder (powder C) that does not assist or impair the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
In addition, in the present invention, "when the characteristic quantities are maintained" does not mean that the characteristic quantities of the powder mixture and the characteristic quantities of the evaluation powder containing the third powder completely match, but rather that the characteristic quantities are maintained to an extent that it is possible to evaluate that the cosmetic effect is present.

More specifically, when calculating the high-brightness area as a feature, if the calculated high-brightness area increases compared to the high-brightness area of the powder mixture or maintains the high-brightness area of the powder mixture, the third powder can be evaluated as powder C.

When calculating the coefficient of variation of brightness as a characteristic quantity, the third powder can be evaluated as powder C if the calculated coefficient of variation of brightness is preferably 0.08 or less, more preferably 0.07 or less, and even more preferably 0.06 or less.

In addition, when calculating the luminance coefficient of variation as a feature, if the calculated luminance coefficient of variation is lower than the luminance coefficient of variation of the powder mixture or maintains the luminance coefficient of variation of the powder mixture, the third powder can be evaluated as powder C.

When extracting a luminance contour pattern as a feature, if the extracted luminance contour pattern is a more uniform and neat circular pattern compared to the luminance contour pattern of the powder mixture, or if it maintains the luminance contour pattern of the powder mixture, the third powder can be evaluated as powder C.

When calculating the complexity of the mid-luminance region as a feature, if the calculated complexity of the mid-luminance region is lower than the complexity of the mid-luminance region of the powder mixture, or if the complexity of the mid-luminance region of the powder mixture is maintained, the third powder can be evaluated as powder C.

In this way, a powder rated as Powder C can maintain or enhance the effect of providing moisture and firmness to the skin exhibited by a powder rated as Powder A, a powder rated as Powder B, or a mixture thereof.

[2] Method for Designing Cosmetics Cosmetics containing powder can be designed using the powder evaluation method of the present invention.
The evaluation method for the cosmetic of the present invention will be described in detail below.

(i) Step of selecting ingredients First, the ingredients of the cosmetic are selected by selecting one or more kinds of powder from a group of powders classified as powder A by the powder evaluation method and a group of powders classified as powder B by the powder evaluation method.
It is preferable to select at least one type of powder from each of powder A and powder B. By selecting such powder, it is possible to impart to the cosmetic a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
When selecting the prescription components, the blending amounts and blending ratios of the powders are appropriately determined.

Powders classified as powder C by the powder evaluation method described above can also be selected as prescription ingredients. It is preferable to select at least one type of powder from each of powder A and powder B, and further select at least one type of powder from powder C.

(ii) Cosmetic Evaluation Step Next, the cosmetic is evaluated using the powder evaluation method described above. As the feature quantities to be evaluated, it is preferable to evaluate the quantity related to the high luminance area and the uniformity of the luminance distribution, and as the quantity related to the uniformity of the luminance distribution, it is preferable to evaluate the coefficient of variation of the luminance, particularly in the region of medium luminance or lower.

The characteristic quantities can be evaluated using the same procedure as the powder evaluation method described in [1] above. If the characteristic quantities satisfy the predetermined criteria as a result of the evaluation, the cosmetic product being evaluated is judged to have a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.

On the other hand, if the cosmetic evaluated in the evaluation process does not meet the above criteria, the process returns to the selection of ingredients, and the powder to be selected and its blending amount, etc. are prepared.

As described above, the selection of ingredient formulations and evaluation of cosmetics are repeated, and when a cosmetic formulation that provides sufficient cosmetic effects is obtained, the cosmetic design is completed.

In this way, by using the powder evaluation method and the cosmetic evaluation method based on the powder evaluation method, it is possible to easily design cosmetics that have the cosmetic effect of giving the skin a fresh and firm feeling.
Furthermore, a powder-containing cosmetic can be produced by an existing manufacturing method based on the cosmetic formulation determined by the cosmetic design method of the present invention.

[3] Powder-Containing Cosmetic The powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention contains a pearl agent (referring to the first powder, hereinafter referred to as powder a) that is evaluated as powder A by the above-mentioned powder A evaluation method, and a plate-like powder other than a pearl agent (referring to the second powder, hereinafter referred to as powder b) that is evaluated as powder B by the above-mentioned powder B evaluation method.
In other words, the powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention contains one or more types of powder a selected from pearlescent agents evaluated as powder A by the above-mentioned powder A evaluation method, and one or more types of powder b selected from plate-like powders other than pearlescent agents evaluated as powder B by the above-mentioned powder B evaluation method.

Powder a and powder b are characterized by having the transmittance and gloss values shown below.
Here, the transmittance can be measured using an existing spectrophotometer or the like, specifically, a Spectral Hazemeter SH7000 (manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.) can be mentioned. The transmittance in the present invention is measured in the wavelength range of 380 to 780 nm.

The gloss value can be measured using an existing gloss meter, for example, UGV-6P (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments). Furthermore, the gloss value in this invention refers specifically to the gloss value at a light receiving angle of 45° when light is incident at 45°.

The transmittance of the powder a is preferably 40 to 60%, more preferably 40 to 55%, and further preferably 45 to 55%.
The gloss value of powder a is preferably 3-15, more preferably 3.5-12, and even more preferably 3.5-10.
A cosmetic containing powder a having transmittance and gloss values within the above ranges has the effect of increasing the area of high brightness regions on the skin when applied to the skin, and can enhance the moisture and firmness of the skin after application of the cosmetic.

As a powder a that satisfies the above conditions, a pearling agent such as titanium mica is preferably used. Commercially available products of such pearling agents include Flamenco Summit Green G30D (manufactured by BASF Color Effects Japan), TIMIRON (registered trademark) SUPERSHEEN MP1001, and TIMIRON (registered trademark) Starluster MP115 (manufactured by Merck Ltd.).

The powder b in the present invention preferably has a transmittance of 65 to 95%, more preferably 70 to 90%, and further preferably 75 to 85%.
The gloss value of powder b is preferably 2-8, more preferably 2.5-7.5, and even more preferably 3-7.
A cosmetic containing powder b having transmittance and gloss values within the above ranges imparts a lustrous appearance to the skin when applied to the skin, while smoothing out changes in the skin's brightness, and enhancing the moisture and firmness of the skin after application of the cosmetic.

As the powder b satisfying the above conditions, a highly transparent plate-like powder such as borosilicate (AL/Ca) or synthetic mica is preferably exemplified. Examples of commercially available products of such plate-like powder include MiyoSYN (registered trademark) Fine-SA (manufactured by Miyoshi Chemicals Co., Ltd.), GSI-Silky Flake (registered trademark) FTD010FY-F01, and Silky Flake (registered trademark) FTD010FY-F01 (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.).
A cosmetic containing powder b has the effect of reducing the complexity of mid-luminance areas of the skin when applied to the skin, and can enhance the moisture and firmness of the skin after application of the cosmetic.

The content of powder a relative to the total amount of the powder-containing cosmetic is preferably 0.01 to 5 mass%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 mass%, and even more preferably 0.01 to 1.5 mass%.

The content of powder b relative to the total amount of the powder-containing cosmetic is preferably 0.01 to 15% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, and even more preferably 0.01 to 8.5% by mass.

The mass ratio of the content of powder a and powder b to the total amount of the powder-containing cosmetic is preferably 1:2 to 1:60, more preferably 1:4 to 1:55, and even more preferably 1:6 to 1:50.

The powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains a powder (hereinafter referred to as powder c) that is classified according to the evaluation method for powder C. Examples of powder c include titanium oxide, talc, zinc oxide, etc., and it is preferable to use titanium oxide.

Powder c has excellent ability to cover uneven skin tone, blemishes, wrinkles, dullness, etc. Therefore, by blending powder c with cosmetics containing powder a and powder b, the cosmetic effect of powder a and powder b in providing freshness and firmness to the skin can be further enhanced.

The content of powder c relative to the total amount of the powder-containing cosmetic is preferably 0.1 to 10 mass%, more preferably 0.5 to 9 mass%, and even more preferably 1 to 8.5 mass%.

The mass ratio of the content of powder a and powder c to the total amount of the powder-containing cosmetic is preferably 1:80 to 1:1, more preferably 1:60 to 1:4, and even more preferably 1:50 to 1:8.

The mass ratio of the content of powder b and powder c to the total amount of the powder-containing cosmetic is preferably 0.5:1 to 20:1, more preferably 1:1 to 10:1, and even more preferably 2:1 to 5:1.

Optional ingredients may be added to the powder-containing cosmetic composition of the present invention as long as the effects of the present invention are not lost. Examples of such optional ingredients include oils such as macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, coconut oil, palm oil, liquid lanolin, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated oil, Japan wax, hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Ibota wax, lanolin, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, and jojoba wax; waxes; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, pristane, ozokerite, paraffin, ceresin, petrolatum, and microcrystalline wax; and higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and undecylenic acid. , higher alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, myristyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, hexyldecyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, glycerin tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, tetraethylhexyl oleate ... synthetic ester oils such as pentane erythritol la-2-ethylhexanoate; chain polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane; cyclic polysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexanesiloxane; silicone oils such as modified polysiloxanes such as amino-modified polysiloxanes, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, alkyl-modified polysiloxanes, and fluorine-modified polysiloxanes; anionic surfactants such as fatty acid soaps (sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), potassium lauryl sulfate, and triethanolamine ether alkyl sulfate; Cationic surfactants such as stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, laurylamine oxide, etc., imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants (2-cocoyl-2-imidazolinium hydroxide-1-carboxyethyloxy disodium salt, etc.), betaine-based surfactants (alkyl betaine, amido betaine, sulfobetaine, etc.), amphoteric surfactants such as acyl methyl taurine, sorbitan fatty acid esters (sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, etc.), glycerin fatty acids (glycerin monostearate, etc.), propylene glycol fatty acid esters (propylene glycol monostearate, etc.), hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ester ... ethers, POE sorbitan fatty acid esters (POE sorbitan monooleate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate, etc.), POE sorbit fatty acid esters (POE-sorbitan monolaurate, etc.), POE glycerin fatty acid esters (POE-glycerin monoisostearate, etc.), POE fatty acid esters (polyethylene glycol monooleate, POE distearate, etc.), POE alkyl ethers (POE 2-octyldodecyl ether, etc.), POE alkyl phenyl ethers (POE nonylphenyl ether, etc.), Pluronic (registered trademark) types, POE/POP alkyl ethers (POE/POP 2-decyltetradecyl ether, etc.), tetradecyl ... nonionic surfactants such as POE castor oil/hydrogenated castor oil derivatives (POE castor oil, POE hydrogenated castor oil, etc.), sucrose fatty acid esters, alkyl glucosides, etc. polyhydric alcohols such as polyethylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, erythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, etc. moisturizing ingredients such as sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, etc., guar gum, quince seed, carrageenan, galactan, gum arabic, pectin, mannan, de Starch, xanthan gum, curdlan, methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, glycogen, heparan sulfate, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, tragacanth gum, keratan sulfate, chondroitin, mucoitin sulfate, hydroxyethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl guar gum, dextran, keratosulfuric acid, locust bean gum, succinoglucan, caronic acid, chitin, chitosan, carboxymethyl chitin, agar, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyethylene glycol, ben Preferred examples include thickeners such as tonite, lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, UV absorbers in the B region such as para-aminobenzoic acid UV absorbers, anthranilic acid UV absorbers, salicylic acid UV absorbers, and cinnamic acid UV absorbers, vitamin A or a derivative thereof, vitamin B such as vitamin B6 hydrochloride, vitamin B6 tripalmitate, vitamin B6 dioctanoate, vitamin B2 or a derivative thereof, vitamin B12, and vitamin B15 or a derivative thereof, vitamin E such as α-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, and vitamin E acetate, vitamin D, vitamin H, pantothenic acid, pantethine, and pyrroloquinoline quinone, and other vitamins.

The powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention can be in the form of a powder, liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, etc., and specific examples of suitable cosmetic products include makeup bases, liquid foundations, cream foundations, concealers, finishing powders (white powders), blushers, eye shadows, and other makeup cosmetics, UV protection cosmetics such as sunscreen creams, and skin care cosmetics. Among these, preferred examples include finishing powders (white powders), makeup bases, liquid foundations, cream foundations, etc.

The powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention may be used alone or may be layered on top of other cosmetics such as liquid foundation, powder foundation, cream foundation, etc.

Furthermore, when the powder-containing cosmetic composition of the present invention is used as a makeup base, liquid foundation, powder foundation, cream foundation, or the like, it is preferable to blend powder c together with powder a and powder b in order to improve the skin covering power.
By using such a form, it is possible to achieve excellent covering power and fresh, firm skin with just one product such as the above-mentioned foundation.

Using the powder evaluation method of the present invention, the high brightness area and uniformity of brightness distribution of the evaluated powders shown in Table 1 were evaluated.

<Evaluation procedure>
(1) A certain amount of emulsion was applied to a three-dimensional skin model (Bio Skin Elasticity Model, manufactured by Beaulax), and then 0.1 g of the powder to be evaluated was applied thereto.
(2) A certain amount of light was irradiated from 30 cm above the three-dimensional skin model, and an image of the three-dimensional skin model was taken from the same direction as the light source.
(3) The brightness values were extracted from the obtained images, and the high brightness area, the brightness variation coefficient, and the uniformity of the brightness contour were evaluated. ImageJ was used to edit the images.

(3-1) High-luminance area The area (pixels) of the three-dimensional skin model in the image (white line in FIG. 1(a)) and the total area with a luminance of 200 or more (white line in FIG. 1(b)) were extracted. Using these values, the occupancy value of the high-luminance area relative to the total area of the three-dimensional skin model in the image was calculated, and evaluation powders with an occupancy value of the high-luminance area of 15% or more were evaluated as powder A.

(3-2) Luminance variation coefficient For the acquired images, the luminance on the perpendicular line passing through the center of the three-dimensional skin model was extracted. Among these, the average luminance value and the standard deviation were calculated using the luminance values of 160 gradations or less, and the variation coefficient was calculated using these values. The evaluation powders with the variation coefficient of 0.08 or less were evaluated as powder B.

(3-3) Uniformity of Brightness Contour Lines The brightness distribution map was visually checked, and the powders for which the brightness contour lines were uniformly distributed in an approximately circumferential shape and did not intersect were evaluated as powder B.

(result)
It was observed that the 3D skin model coated with Flamenco Summit Green G30D, TIMIRON (registered trademark) SUPERSHEEN MP1001, and TIMIRON (registered trademark) Starluster MP115 had a high luminance area occupancy rate of 15% or more. In particular, when Flamenco Summit Green G30D was applied, the high luminance area occupancy value was 30%. (Figure 2). Therefore, Flamenco Summit Green G30D and the like can be recognized as powders (powder A) that can increase the high luminance area of the skin when applied.

The 3D skin model with Pearl-Glo UVRRPG1086 and Silky Flake FTD010FY-F01 applied had a slightly higher brightness value at the center, and the brightness value decreased at regular intervals in a circumferential pattern. Among them, Pearl-Glo UVRRPG1086 had a uniform decrease in the middle brightness value, and the coefficient of variation for brightness below 160 was 0.054. (Figure 3)
Therefore, Pearl-Glo UVRRPG 1086 and the like can be recognized as a powder (powder B) that can smooth out changes in skin luminance when applied.

On the other hand, as shown in FIG. 4, the distribution of luminance values in the three-dimensional skin model coated with talc was non-uniform, with no defined high luminance region, and no circumferential decrease in luminance values was observed.
In other words, talc can be evaluated as not being a powder that contributes to the cosmetic effect of providing moisture and firmness to the skin.

In this way, by using the powder evaluation method of the present invention, powders that have the effect of giving moisture and firmness to the skin can be easily identified.

The powder evaluation method and cosmetic design method of the present invention can be used for design in the research and development of cosmetics. In addition, the powder-containing cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to cosmetics such as foundations.

Claims (14)

A method for evaluating a powder, comprising:
The evaluation powder is applied to a skin substitute having a convex curved surface;
an image acquisition step of acquiring an image of the surface of the substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied;
a feature extraction step of extracting optically detectable feature amounts from the image;
and an evaluation step of evaluating the cosmetic effect of the evaluation powder based on the feature amount,
the feature amount is an amount related to an area of a high luminance region in the image and/or a uniformity of luminance distribution,
The cosmetic effect is a cosmetic effect of providing freshness and firmness to the skin,
The substitute is a centrally convex three-dimensional skin model ;
The high luminance region is a region that is in the top 75% or more of the maximum luminance, which is the highest luminance in the image,
In the image acquisition step, a light source is set on an extension line extending vertically from the apex of the convex portion of the substitute, and light is evenly irradiated onto the substitute from an upper vertical direction so that a high-brightness area is 3% to 35% or less of the total area of the substitute before the evaluation powder is applied ,
1. A method for evaluating a powder, wherein the feature amount includes an area of a high brightness region in the image, and the evaluation step is either of the following (X) or (Y):
(X) If the area of the high-brightness region on the surface of the skin substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied in the image accounts for 15% or more of the total area of the surface of the skin substitute in the image, the evaluation powder is evaluated as a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin.
(Y) The area of high-brightness areas in an image of the surface of the substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied is compared with the area of the high-brightness areas detected from an image of the surface of the skin substitute before the evaluation powder has been applied, and if the area of the high-brightness areas in the image of the surface of the substitute to which the evaluation powder has been applied is greater than the area before the evaluation powder was applied to the skin substitute, the evaluation powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder A) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. In the evaluation step, the amount relating to the uniformity of the luminance distribution is a variation coefficient of luminance in a region of medium luminance or less,
the image is an 8-bit grayscale image with 256 gradations, and the region with medium or lower luminance is a region with 180 gradations or less,
2. The method for evaluating powder according to claim 1 , wherein, when the coefficient of variation is 0.08 or less, the powder to be evaluated is evaluated as a powder (powder B) that contributes to the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. 2. The powder evaluation method according to claim 1, wherein, in the evaluation step, if the quantity relating to the uniformity of the luminance distribution is a pattern of luminance contour lines, and the pattern is a pattern in which the luminance changes in a substantially uniform circular shape from the center of the image to the outside, the evaluated powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder B) that contributes to a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. The evaluation powder is a powder evaluated as powder A by the powder evaluation method according to claim 1 ,
A powder mixture with a powder evaluated to be powder B by the powder evaluation method according to claim 2 ,
the feature amount is an amount related to an area of a high luminance region in the image and a uniformity of luminance distribution,
3. The powder evaluation method according to claim 2, wherein, in the evaluation step, if the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of the powder evaluated to be powder A and the powder evaluated to be powder B , the evaluated powder is evaluated as contributing to a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. The evaluation powder is a powder evaluated as powder A by the powder evaluation method according to claim 1,
A powder mixture with a powder evaluated to be powder B by the powder evaluation method according to claim 3,
the feature amount is an amount related to an area of a high luminance region in the image and a uniformity of luminance distribution,
4. The powder evaluation method according to claim 3, wherein, in the evaluation step, if the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of the powder evaluated to be powder A and the powder evaluated to be powder B, the evaluated powder is evaluated as contributing to a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. The evaluation powder further includes a third powder,
5. The powder evaluation method according to claim 4, wherein, in the evaluation step, if the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of a powder mixture of the powder evaluated to be powder A and the powder evaluated to be powder B , the third powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder C) that does not enhance or impair the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. The evaluation powder further includes a third powder,
6. The powder evaluation method according to claim 5, wherein, in the evaluation step, if the evaluated powder maintains the characteristic quantities of a powder mixture of the powder evaluated to be powder A and the powder evaluated to be powder B, the third powder is evaluated to be a powder (powder C) that does not enhance or impair the cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. A powder evaluated as powder A by the powder evaluation method according to claim 1 ;
A powder evaluated as powder B by the powder evaluation method according to claim 2 ;
The method for designing a cosmetic having a cosmetic effect of giving freshness and firmness to the skin includes combining the above. A powder evaluated as powder A by the powder evaluation method according to claim 1;
A powder evaluated as powder B by the powder evaluation method according to claim 3;
The method for designing a cosmetic having a cosmetic effect of giving freshness and firmness to the skin includes combining the above. Further, the method includes determining a mixing ratio of the powder evaluated as the powder A and the powder evaluated as the powder B,
9. A cosmetic design method according to claim 8, further comprising the steps of: determining a mixing ratio of said powders using the powder evaluation method according to claim 4 , so that the powder mixture being the evaluation powder is evaluated as having a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin . Further, the method includes determining a mixing ratio of the powder evaluated as the powder A and the powder evaluated as the powder B,
10. A cosmetic design method according to claim 9, further comprising using the powder evaluation method according to claim 5 to determine a mixing ratio of the powders so that the powder mixture being the evaluation powder is evaluated as having a cosmetic effect of imparting moisture and firmness to the skin. The cosmetic design method according to claim 8 or 10 , further comprising combining a powder evaluated as powder C by the powder evaluation method according to claim 6. The cosmetic design method according to claim 9 or 11, further comprising combining a powder evaluated as powder C by the powder evaluation method according to claim 7. A step of evaluating a powder selected from pearlescent agents by the powder evaluation method according to claim 1 ;
a step of evaluating a powder selected from the plate-like powders other than the pearling agent by the powder evaluation method according to claim 2 or 3 ;
the step of mixing a powder evaluated as the powder A among the pearling agents in the step of evaluating a powder selected from the pearling agents with another powder evaluated as the powder B among the plate-like powders other than the pearling agents in the step of evaluating a powder selected from the plate-like powders other than the pearling agents,
To provide a method for producing a cosmetic having a cosmetic effect of giving freshness and firmness to the skin.