JP7660835B2 - shirt - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a shirt.

Conventionally, shirts that have a yoke and a back body, such as dress shirts, are known. In such shirts, the yoke has a lower edge that is a joining edge with the back body, and the back body has an upper edge that is a joining edge with the yoke (for example, Patent Document 1).

As shown in FIG. 9, the shirt C according to the prior art is formed so that at least one of the lower edge C1 of the yoke and the upper edge C2 of the back body extends in the width direction of the shirt C.

Patent No. 6618889

However, after investigations by the inventors, it was found that there is room for improvement in the comfort of shirts of the prior art around the shoulders of the wearer. Specifically, a wearer wearing a shirt of the prior art may feel a sense of tightness around the shoulders of the shirt. Furthermore, such a tight feeling may cause fatigue for the wearer. Thus, there is room for improvement in the parts of shirts of the prior art that come into contact with the shoulders of the wearer.

In view of the above, the present invention aims to provide a comfortable shirt that reduces the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer.

The inventors discovered that the above problem could be solved by inclining the bottom edge of the yoke and the top edge of the back body at a predetermined angle from the center toward both ends, and thus completed the present invention.

That is, the shirt according to the present invention is
A shirt having a yoke and a back portion,
The yoke has a lower edge which is a joining edge with the back body,
The rear body has an upper edge which is a joining edge with the yoke,
Each of the lower edge and the upper edge is inclined downward from the center toward both ends,
When a first straight line connecting the center and tip of the lower edge and a second straight line connecting the center and tip of the upper edge are drawn,
a first inclination angle of the first straight line with respect to a width direction of the shirt is 5 to 16 degrees;
A second inclination angle of the second straight line with respect to the width direction is 3 to 12 degrees larger than the first inclination angle.

With this configuration, the first inclination angle is 5 to 16 degrees, and the second inclination angle is 3 to 12 degrees greater than the first inclination angle, reducing the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer, resulting in a comfortable fit.

In addition, the shirt according to the present invention preferably comprises:
Each of the lower edge and the upper edge is formed in a curved shape that bulges upward.

With this configuration, the lower edge and the upper edge are each curved and bulged upward, further reducing the feeling of tightness around the wearer's shoulders and making the garment more comfortable to wear.

As described above, the present invention can provide a comfortable shirt that reduces the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer.

FIG. 1 is a front view of a shirt according to one embodiment. FIG. 2 is a rear view of the shirt of FIG. FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the front body of the shirt of FIG. 1 before joining. FIG. 4 is a view showing the yoke and the back body of the shirt of FIG. 1 separately before they are joined together. FIG. 5 is a diagram illustrating each extension region of the yoke. FIG. 6 is a diagram for explaining the inclination angles of the lower end edge of the yoke and the upper end edge of the back body. FIG. 7 shows the state where only the straight line portions of the lower edge of the yoke and the upper edge of the back body are joined. FIG. 8 shows an example of simulation data obtained by 3D CAD in the embodiment. FIG. 9 shows the bottom edge of the yoke and the top edge of the back body in a prior art shirt.

Below, we will explain a shirt according to one embodiment of the present invention, using a dress shirt as an example, with reference to the drawings.

As shown in Figures 1 and 2, the shirt 1 according to this embodiment comprises a front body 10 covering the front side of the wearer, a back body 20 covering the back side of the wearer, a yoke 30 covering the shoulders of the wearer, a collar 40 arranged around the neck of the wearer, and a pair of sleeves 50 covering the arms of the wearer. The shirt 1 also comprises a joint 60 formed by joining the various parts. The joint 60 in this embodiment is formed by sewing with thread. Note that the left-right direction when the shirt 1 is viewed from the front or back side may be referred to as the width direction, and the direction perpendicular to the width direction as the up-down direction. Figures 3 to 6 show the state (separated state) before the pieces of fabric constituting each of the above-mentioned parts are joined.

As shown in FIG. 1, the front body 10 has an upper front body 11 with multiple buttonholes and a lower front body 12 with multiple buttons that can be engaged with each buttonhole.

As shown in FIG. 3, the upper front body 11 has an armhole forming edge 112 that forms the armhole of the shirt 1, and an upper front body side edge 113 that is the joining edge with the back body 20. In this embodiment, the upper front body side edge 113 is formed so as to be curved inward in the width direction.

Similarly, the lower front body 12 has an armhole forming edge 122 that forms the armhole of the shirt 1, and a lower front body side edge 123 that is the joining edge with the back body 20. In this embodiment, the lower front body side edge 123 is formed so as to curve inward in the width direction of the shirt 1.

In the front body 10 having such an upper front body 11 and a lower front body 12, hereinafter, a straight line passing through the lower end of the armhole forming edge 112 or the armhole forming edge 122 (in other words, the upper end of the upper front body side edge 113 or the lower front body side edge 123) and extending in the width direction is referred to as the front body bust line BLf, a straight line passing through the most inward point in the width direction of the upper front body side edge 113 or the lower front body side edge 123 and extending in the width direction is referred to as the front body waist line WLf, and a straight line passing through the lower end of the upper front body side edge 113 or the lower front body side edge 123 and extending in the width direction is referred to as the front body hip line HLf.

It is preferable that the front body 10 is formed so that its width decreases from the front body bust line BLf to the front body waist line WLf. This improves the appearance of the wearer. In addition, it can reduce the feeling of tightness around the chest of a wearer with a body type such as a B body type whose chest circumference is larger than its waist circumference. It is also preferable that the front body 10 is formed so that its width increases from the front body waist line WLf to the front body hip line HLf. This makes the shirt 1 narrow around the wearer's stomach, improving the appearance of the wearer.

The upper front body 11 further has an upper left edge 111 that is the joining edge with the yoke 30. In this embodiment, the upper left edge 111 is formed so as to slope downward from the center toward the side edge in the width direction of the shirt 1. It is preferable that the upper left edge 111 is formed in a curved shape that bulges upward.

The lower front body 12 further has an upper right edge 121 that is the joining edge with the yoke 30. In this embodiment, the upper right edge 121 is formed so that it slopes downward from the center toward the side edge in the width direction of the shirt 1. It is preferable that the upper right edge 121 is formed in a curved shape that bulges upward.

As shown in FIG. 4, the back body 20 has an upper edge 21 that is the joining edge with the yoke 30. In this embodiment, the upper edge 21 is formed so as to slope downward from its center toward both ends. It is preferable that the upper edge 21 is formed in a curved shape that bulges upward. It is also more preferable that the upper edge 21 has a straight portion 211 that extends from its center in the width direction of the shirt 1, and a pair of curved portions 212 that extend from both ends of the straight portion 211 so as to slope downward.

The ratio of the length of the straight portion 211 to the length of the line segment LS1 drawn by connecting both ends of the upper edge 21 is preferably 0.1 to 0.16, and more preferably 0.04 to 0.10. Since the length of the line segment LS1 is usually 40 to 60 cm, the length of the straight portion 211 is preferably 4.0 to 9.6 cm, and more preferably 1.6 to 6.0 cm.

The back body 20 also has an armhole forming edge 22 that forms the armhole of the shirt 1, and a back body side edge 23 that is the joining edge with the front body 10. In this embodiment, each of the back body side edges 23 is formed to curve inward in the width direction of the shirt 1.

In the following description of such a back body 20, the straight line passing through the bottom end of the armhole forming edge 22 (in other words, the top end of the back body side edge 23) and extending in the width direction of the shirt 1 is referred to as the back body bustline BLb, the straight line passing through the most inward point in the width direction of the back body side edge 23 and extending in the width direction of the shirt 1 is referred to as the back body waistline WLb, and the straight line passing through the bottom end of the back body side edge 23 and extending in the width direction of the shirt 1 is referred to as the back body hipline HLb.

The rear body 20 is preferably formed so that its width decreases from the rear body bustline BLb to the rear body waistline WLb. This improves the appearance of the wearer. In addition, it can further reduce the feeling of tightness around the chest of a wearer with a body type whose chest circumference is larger than its waist circumference, such as a B body type. In addition, the rear body 20 is preferably formed so that its width increases from the front body waistline WLb to the rear body hipline HLb. This makes the shirt 1 narrow around the wearer's stomach, further improving the appearance of the wearer.

The back body 20 of this embodiment is formed with a pair of darts 24 that extend in the vertical direction. The darts 24 in this embodiment are formed in a vertically elongated diamond shape that extends between the back body bustline BLb and the back body hipline HLb. Each dart 24 is formed so that its widest portion overlaps the back body waistline WLb. Furthermore, each dart 24 is preferably formed below the curved portion 212 at the upper end edge 21 of the back body 20. This makes it easier for the darts 24 to align in the vertical direction with the portions of the back body 20 that may protrude backward due to the wearer's shoulder blades, and thus suppresses the occurrence of wrinkles.

As shown in Figures 1 and 4, the yoke 30 has a pair of front lower edges 31 that become the joining edges with the front body 10 when made into the shirt 1, a back lower edge 32 that becomes the joining edge with the back body 20, a neck edge 33 that is formed to connect the front lower edges 31 and is placed around the neck of the wearer, and a pair of yoke side edges 34 that form the armholes of the shirt 1.

The front lower edges 31 are joined to the upper left edge 111 and upper right edge 121 of the front body 10. This results in the shirt 1 having a pair of front yoke joints 61 where the front body 10 and the yoke 30 are joined. In this embodiment, the front lower edges 31 are formed in a curved shape that bulges upward when joined to form the shirt 1.

As shown in Figures 2 and 4, the rear lower edge 32 is joined to the upper edge 21 of the rear body 20. This gives the shirt 1 a rear yoke joint 62, which is the part where the rear body 20 and the yoke 30 are joined.

The rear lower edge 32 is formed so as to slope downward from its center toward both ends. In this embodiment, the rear lower edge 32 is formed in a curved shape that bulges upward when made into the shirt 1. It is preferable that the rear lower edge 32 has a straight portion 321 that extends from its center in the width direction of the shirt 1, and a pair of curved portions 322 that extend from both ends of the straight portion 321 so as to slope downward. The straight portion 321 is joined to the straight portion 211 of the back body 20. The curved portion 322 is joined to the curved portion 212 of the back body 20.

The ratio of the length of the straight portion 321 to the length of the line segment LS2 drawn by connecting both ends of the rear lower edge 32 is preferably 0.1 to 0.16, and more preferably 0.04 to 0.10. Since the length of the line segment LS2 is usually 40 to 60 cm, the length of the straight portion 321 is preferably 4.0 to 9.6 cm, and more preferably 1.6 to 6.0 cm.

Each of the yoke side edges 34 is joined to the armhole forming edge of the sleeve portion 50. This gives the shirt 1 a sleeve joint portion 63 where the yoke 30 and the sleeve portion 50 are joined.

In this embodiment, each of the yoke side edges 34 is formed to be curved inward in the width direction of the shirt 1. In addition, each of the yoke side edges 34 has a front end, which is the joint end with the front body 10, positioned outward in the width direction than a rear end, which is the joint end with the back body 20.

As shown in FIG. 5, in the above-described yoke 30, hereinafter, a straight line passing through the center of the neck edge 33 and extending in the width direction of the shirt 1 will be referred to as the front reference line Lf, and a straight line passing through the center of the rear lower edge 32 and extending in the width direction of the shirt 1 will be referred to as the rear reference line Lb. Such a yoke 30 has a pair of front extension regions 35 that extend downward from the front reference line Lf on the front side of the shirt 1, and a pair of rear extension regions 36 that extend downward from the rear reference line Lb on the rear side of the shirt 1.

Each of the forward extension regions 35 is formed to extend outward in the width direction. This allows the yoke 30 to easily conform to the shape of the wearer's shoulders, reducing the feeling of tightness around the shoulders. It also reduces the occurrence of wrinkles.

Each of the rear extension regions 36 is formed to extend outward in the width direction. This allows the yoke 30 to more easily conform to the shape of the wearer's shoulders, reducing the feeling of tightness around the shoulders. It also reduces the occurrence of wrinkles.

The distance between the front reference line Lf and the rear reference line Lb is preferably 5 to 10 cm.

Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 6, in order to reduce the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer, it is important that the upper edge 21 of the rear body 20 and the lower rear edge 32 of the yoke 30 have a predetermined inclination angle relative to their respective width directions.

Specifically, first, a first straight line L1 is drawn connecting the center and tip of the rear lower edge 32, and a second straight line L2 is drawn connecting the center and tip of the upper edge 21. It is important that the first inclination angle θ1, which is the angle at which the first straight line L1 inclines downward with respect to the width direction of the shirt 1, is 5 to 16°, and that the second inclination angle θ2, which is the angle at which the second straight line L2 inclines downward, is 3 to 12° greater than the first inclination angle θ1. More preferably, the first inclination angle θ1 is 5 to 10°, and the second inclination angle θ2 is 3 to 12° greater than the first inclination angle θ1. Even more preferably, the first inclination angle θ1 is 7 to 10°, and the second inclination angle θ2 is 5 to 8° greater than the first inclination angle θ1. This reduces the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer, making the shirt 1 comfortable to wear.

In addition, by setting the difference between the first inclination angle θ1 and the second inclination angle θ2 to 12° or less, the rear yoke joint 62 formed by the upper edge 21 of the rear body 20 and the rear lower edge 32 of the yoke 30 does not bulge outward (as if a dart were formed) and has a natural shape that follows a curved surface, which is preferable.

From the viewpoint of making it easier for the yoke 30 of the shirt 1 to conform to the shoulders of the wearer, it is preferable that the first inclination angle θ1 is 16° or less. Also, from the viewpoint of making it easier for the area around the rear yoke joint 62 formed by the upper edge 21 of the back body 20 and the rear lower edge 32 of the yoke 30 to conform to the shoulders of the wearer, it is preferable that the second inclination angle θ2 is 25° or less, and more preferably 22° or less.

As shown in FIG. 7, the second inclination angle θ2 is greater than the first inclination angle θ1, so that when the straight portion 211 at the upper end edge 21 of the back body 20 and the straight portion 321 at the rear lower end edge 32 of the yoke 30 are joined to form a part of the rear yoke joint 62, a gap G is formed between the curved portion 212 at the upper end edge 21 and the curved portion 322 at the rear lower end edge 32. As a result, the periphery of the joint formed by the rear lower end edge 32 of the yoke 30 and the upper end edge 21 of the back body 20 has a three-dimensional shape that bulges outward from the shirt 1, reducing the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer and improving the comfort of the shirt 1. In addition, the occurrence of wrinkles in the back body 20 caused by the wearer's shoulder blades coming into contact with the back body 20 is suppressed, improving the appearance of the wearer.

Although the above embodiment has been shown as an example, the shirt of the present invention is not limited to the configuration of the above embodiment. Furthermore, the shirt of the present invention is not limited by the above-mentioned action and effect. The shirt of the present invention can be modified in various ways without departing from the gist of the present invention.

For example, the shirt in the above embodiment is a dress shirt, but is not limited to this and may be a casual shirt.

The present invention will be explained in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these.

A simulation using 3D CAD made by Yuka & Alpha was used to evaluate the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer and the occurrence of wrinkles in the shirt. Specifically, the fabric was set to 60-count, 100% cotton Oxford (non-shrinkable, two-strand plain weave). For a shirt with an upper front body, a lower front body, a yoke, and a back body as shown in Figures 3 to 6, several shirts were designed with various values for the first inclination angle θ1 with respect to the lower rear edge of the yoke and the second inclination angle θ2 with respect to the upper edge of the back body. Each shirt was fitted to a Japanese person of average build. The shapes of the lower (rear) edge of the yoke and the upper edge of the back body were designed to be curved and bulged upward when made into a shirt.

[Evaluation of tightness around the shoulders]
As shown in Fig. 8, the fabric in the fitted state was divided into equilateral triangular regions with a side length of 2 cm, and the elongation rate of each region was observed. Regions with no elongation of the fabric were defined as regions with an elongation rate of 100%, and regions with an elongation rate of 101% or more were defined as compression regions. The shirt can be evaluated as having less cramping around the shoulders if the number of compression regions is smaller. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
(Evaluation criteria for cramped feeling)
In this example, shirts with less than 150 pressure regions were evaluated as good shirts. More specifically, shirts with a sufficiently reduced number of pressure regions compared to shirt No. 1 (pressure region 200), which has no difference between the first inclination angle θ1 in the yoke and the second inclination angle θ2 in the back body, were evaluated as good shirts.

[Evaluation of wrinkles in the yoke and back body]
The number of wrinkles on the yoke and back body was counted and evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
(Wrinkle evaluation criteria)
A: The number of wrinkles is less than 3.
Δ: The number of wrinkles is 4 to 10.
x: The number of wrinkles is more than 10.

From the results of No. 1 in Table 1, it was recognized that if the design does not have any difference between the first inclination angle θ1 in the yoke and the second inclination angle θ2 in the back body, the number of pressure areas increases and the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer tends to increase.

On the other hand, the results of No. 2 to No. 17 in Table 2 show that by designing the second inclination angle θ2 to be larger than the first inclination angle θ1, the number of pressure areas is reduced, and the feeling of tightness around the shoulders of the wearer is alleviated.

More specifically, first, comparing shirts No. 2-3 with θ1 = 4° and shirts No. 4-7 with θ1 = 5°, it was found that the area of pressure was significantly reduced in the shirts with θ1 = 5°. From these results, it can be concluded that the first inclination angle θ1 of the yoke is preferably 5° or more.

In addition, in both shirts No. 4 to 6 with θ1 = 5° and shirts No. 7 to 13 with θ1 = 9.5°, the number of pressure areas tended to decrease as [θ2 - θ1] increased toward 6.5° and as [θ2 - θ1] decreased toward 6.5°. This tendency is thought to be similar for shirts No. 14 to 16 with θ1 = 16. From these results, it can be understood that the second inclination angle θ2 in the back body is preferably 3 to 12° larger than the first inclination angle θ1, and more preferably 3 to 11° larger.

For shirts with θ1≦17°, the results in Table 1 (especially No. 15 to 17) suggest that the number of pressure areas is likely to be 150 or more, so no specific evaluation was performed. In other words, the results of No. 15 to 17 indicate that it is preferable for the first inclination angle θ1 in the yoke to be 16° or less.

For shirt No. 7, where [θ2 - θ1] = 11°, some bulging was observed along the rear yoke joint, but this was deemed to be of no practical use.

1: shirt, 10: front body, 11: upper front body, 111: upper left edge, 112: armhole forming edge, 113: side edge of upper front body, 12: lower front body, 121: upper right edge, 122: armhole forming edge, 123: side edge of lower front body, 20: back body, 21: upper edge, 211: straight portion, 212: curved portion, 22: armhole forming edge, 23 : rear body side edge, 24: darts, 30: yoke, 31: front lower edge, 32: rear lower edge, 321: straight section, 322: curved section, 33: neck edge, 34: yoke side edge, 35: front extension region, 36: rear extension region, 40: collar, 50: sleeves, 60: joint, 61: front yoke joint, 62: rear yoke joint, 63: sleeve joint,
BLf: front bust line, WLf: front waist line, HLf: front hip line, BLb: back bust line, WLb: back waist line, HLb: back hip line, Lf: front reference line, Lr: back reference line, L1: first straight line, L2: second straight line, θ1: first inclination angle, θ2: second inclination angle

Claims (4)

A shirt having a yoke and a back body,
The yoke and the back body are made of woven fabric,
The yoke has a lower edge which is a joining edge with the back body,
The rear body has an upper edge which is a joining edge with the yoke,
the lower edge has a straight portion extending from a center in a width direction of the shirt, and is inclined downward from each end of the straight portion toward each tip of the lower edge,
the upper edge has a straight portion extending from a center in a width direction of the shirt, and is inclined downward from each end of the straight portion toward each tip of the upper edge,
When a first straight line connecting the center of the lower edge and the tip of the lower edge and a second straight line connecting the center of the upper edge and the tip of the upper edge are drawn,
a first inclination angle of the first straight line with respect to a width direction of the shirt is 5 to 16 degrees;
a second inclination angle of the second straight line with respect to the width direction is 3 to 12 degrees larger than the first inclination angle. the lower edge has a pair of curved portions extending obliquely downward from both ends of the straight portion of the lower edge to a tip of the lower edge,
2. The shirt of claim 1 , wherein said upper edge has a pair of curved portions extending obliquely downward from both ends of said straight portion of said upper edge to a tip of said upper edge . the first tilt angle is 5 to 10 degrees;
3. The shirt according to claim 1, wherein the second inclination angle is 3 to 10 degrees larger than the first inclination angle. the length of the line segment connecting the tips of the lower edges corresponds to the length of the line segment connecting the tips of the upper edges,
4. The shirt according to claim 3, wherein the ratio of the length of said straight line portion to the length of said line segments is 0.04 to 0.10.